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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 97up-list); Thu, 10 Feb 2000 19:13:03 -0500 (EST) Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 19:13:03 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 97up-list digest users Reply-to: 97up-list Subject: 97up-list Digest V2000 #2 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1997 and Newer Truck Mailing List(Use the Small Chassis List for Rangers, Explorers, Aerostars and Bronco IIs. Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 97up-list Digest Wed, 09 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 002 In This Issue: Re: Oil Weight???, Was: My first Oil Change Re: 97up-list Digest V2000 #1 Re: Oil Change ADMIN: Use a subject in replies Mobil 1 Oil Re. Receiver hitch. Re: Bumper Suggestions? Re: 97up-list Digest V2000 #1 Re: Oil Change Re: Bumper Suggestions? Computer code Re: Computer code Re: No cool vent air Oil Changes Re: Oil Change Re: Oil Change Re: Computer code Re: Re. Receiver hitch. Re: Oil Change 4R100 drain plug Re: Oil Change Re: Oil Change...long post Re: Oil Change Re: 4R100 drain plug Re: 4R100 drain plug Re: 4R100 drain plug Kick plates Re: 4R100 drain plug Re: 4R100 drain plug ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Keith Veren" Subject: Re: Oil Weight???, Was: My first Oil Change Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:43:38 -0500 Correct. Think in terms of WD-40. If WD-40 was thick like oil or grease, do you think it would penetrate tight bolts and squeaky bearing seals? No. Same thing with oil, only oil needs more "body to prevent metal-to-metal contact, but, if it is too thick, it just will not be able to penetrate to the places it is needed. Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Rigney" To: <97up-list Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 12:33 PM Subject: [97up-list] Re: Oil Weight???, Was: My first Oil Change > If you look at a viscosity chart, you will see that 10W-30 has a very > similar profile to 5W-30. It is slightly more viscous, even at high > temperatures. When I brought my SD in for an oil change, they used 10W-30 > in place of 5W-30, and when I pointed this out they said that was fine and > that Ford approved of the substitution because of our hot climate. I didn't > investigate this any further, but I didn't buy it. I now do my own oil > changes and I always use 5W-30. I don't know about sludge buildup, but a > more viscous oil may not penetrate into tight clearances as well and it may > change the size of the hydrodynamic wedge that your crankshaft rides on, > which will affect lubrication flow between the journal and bearing. > > In conclusion, the differences are slight. There may be no measurable > effect in using 10W-30 instead of 5W-30. Since they're the same price, why > not use the 5W-30 since your manual recommends it? > > Regards, > George > > 1974 Gran Torino Elite 351W > 1984 LTD Crown Victoria 302 > 1999 F250 SD CC V10 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Christian Bagley [mailto:c_bagley > Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 11:04 AM > To: 97up-list > Subject: [97up-list] Oil Weight???, Was: My first Oil Change > > > What weight oil is safe for these engines? The service people at my local > dealer said that 10W30 would run the risk of producing sludge in the engine > and they said absolutely stay with 5w30. Are these people crazy or what? > > > Chris in VA > > > > ______________________________________________________ > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. > > ------------------------------ From: ShermanPowell Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 20:38:05 EST Subject: Re: 97up-list Digest V2000 #1 In a message dated 2/9/00 7:50:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, listar << why dont you just get a winch that slides into receiver? I hear those work great and a few companys have them. Or if you need the front bumper, check out ranchand.com, thats what i am getting when i get one, there the best in TX. RS >> The problem with the receiver-mount winches is that they are limited by the strength of the receiver. Many (most?) Class III receivers are rated at 5,000 pounds, so if you mount a 12K winch on one, you might have a significant emotional event when you try to un-stick your 6000-plus pound beast, sunk up to the axles in mud, and the receiver fails. (You can actually load a winch with up to 150% of your vehicle's weight when it's stuck bad.) Don't get me wrong, I like the idea, and you won't run into problems during "routine" use, but it could also fail when you need it most. -Sherman Powell ------------------------------ From: MFAPHOTO Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 21:45:13 EST Subject: Re: Oil Change Of course it depends on how much you work your truck, but about a year ago, Consumer Reports did a test of motor oils and change intervals. They used a fleet of Taxicabs in New York for the test. They put various oils in them and then tore the engines down at different intervals to check for wear. In the end, because of the improvement of oils in recent years, they suggested oil changes at 7,000 mile intervals. They claimed that wear in engines that had oil changes at 7,000 mile intervals were no more worn than engines that had them at more frequently. They said that there is no scientific basis for recommending changes at 3,000 mile intervals with today's complex formulations and they are a waste of money and only make the oil companies and oil changing shops richer. So, I'm definitely not getting 3,000 mile changes and if I'm pulling a lot of weight, I will change at 5,000 miles to be safe. Russ Martin 2000 F150 Lariat 4X4 5.4L, Chestnut Brown ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 22:25:29 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: Use a subject in replies Okay gang, I don't think its asking too much to put a subject in the replies. Message threads are difficult too follow if the subject is: [97up-list] Re: 97up-list Digest V2000 #1 Unfortunately, I don't have a filter to bounce these yet, but I will soon. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts ------------------------------ From: JPatte5238 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 22:31:43 EST Subject: Mobil 1 I hope I can help with the Mobil 1 questions. I work for ExxonMobil corp., but I don't know how, why, or make the Mobil 1 product. I do know that Mobil has a web site that can answer most of your questions. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mobil.com/mobil1_racing/about/where/factoryfill/index.html The web site says that new cars from the factory come with Mobil 1 already, cars like Aston Martin, Callway, Corvette, Viper, Mercedes Benz and Porsche. John Patterson What kind of work I do? I turn H2S into sulfur. ------------------------------ From: "James L. Sutton" Subject: Oil Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 21:35:11 -0600 The book says 6 qt., that's what it takes. I have a '97 F-150 with the 4.6l V8. The first time I got the oil changed, it drove the mechanic nuts. He kept checking the dip stick, which does not appear to reflect the same amount on both sides of the stick. Since that time, he puts in 6 qt. regardless of the stick indication. I have found the best time, the only time, to check the oil level, is when the engine is cold and the oil has had sufficient time to settle. Any other time, including with a fresh oil change, the indication is low. James L. Sutton e-mail: jim_sutton ------------------------------ From: CERESJohnG Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 22:52:38 EST Subject: Re. Receiver hitch. a 12K winch would be a bit much for a receiver winch mount. I think Warn limits theirs to 9000 lbs and sells the total package with the 8000# winch. Ramsey on the other hand I think limits theirs to 6000#. I generally stay a bit cautious with mine, If it looks like a serious load, I use the snatchblock and come back to one of the tow hooks. That cuts the load on the winch mount by half for any pull, Still doesn't help tho if the winch is over capacity and you use it all. JG ------------------------------ From: davesomers Subject: Re: Bumper Suggestions? Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 22:54:38 -0500 >davesomers > I am looking for suggestions for winch bumpers for both ends of my 99 F350 DRW. > > What have other people seen? > Dave Somers > >RSnovi >why dont you just get a winch that slides into receiver? I hear those work >great and a few companys have them. Or if you need the front bumper, check >out ranchand.com, thats what i am getting when i get one, there the best in >TX. >RS The receiver mount winches are always suggested to me, but I've ruled them out for two reasons: 1) That winch is pretty damn heavy to be moving back and forth. 2) With the winch in the receiver, I can't hook up the trailer too. (I certainly wouldn't cantilever 1000lbs tongue weight out another 24" to put it beyond the winch) The rear winch is used for pulling cargo into the trailer as much as "unsticking" I checked out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ranchhand.com and liked the looks of the "front end replacement". Priced very reasonable too. (But didn't see rear winch option) I've never seen one in NJ (even the western part of the state). How do they look close up? Dave Somers ------------------------------ From: RSnovi Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 23:45:41 EST Subject: Re: 97up-list Digest V2000 #1 In a message dated 2/9/00 8:39:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, ShermanPowell but are most recievers on F250 and up rated at 10K, and i am sure the type of front bumper i am speaking of can handle it. Its not like the abuse it will take from a good yank from a strap. A solid pull will not break compared to some of the theories i have tested, lol! RS << The problem with the receiver-mount winches is that they are limited by the strength of the receiver. Many (most?) Class III receivers are rated at 5,000 pounds, so if you mount a 12K winch on one, you might have a significant emotional event when you try to un-stick your 6000-plus pound beast, sunk up to the axles in mud, and the receiver fails. (You can actually load a winch with up to 150% of your vehicle's weight when it's stuck bad.) Don't get me wrong, I like the idea, and you won't run into problems during "routine" use, but it could also fail when you need it most. -Sherman Powell >> ------------------------------ From: "Keith Veren" Subject: Re: Oil Change Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 23:48:22 -0500 Consumer reports is also a leftist, SUV and Pickup-hating magazine that thinks we should have a health system like in Canada where thing are get worse by the minute. They love little 50 MPG eggshells and they will never just come out and state that your family is much safer in an Expedition, Excursion, Suburban etc. than an Altima or Corolla. Too bad they have such a philosophical bent, otherwise, they might be a good rag, but back to the oil test. They used cabs that run all day, so they do not have a lot of water buildup in the oil from those real short trips to the grocery store your wife takes. The test has been faulted by many in the oil industry and even they admit it may not apply to many people with different driving habits. Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <97up-list Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 9:45 PM Subject: [97up-list] Re: Oil Change > Of course it depends on how much you work your truck, but about a year > ago, Consumer Reports did a test of motor oils and change intervals. They > used a fleet of Taxicabs in New York for the test. They put various oils in > them and then tore the engines down at different intervals to check for wear. > In the end, because of the improvement of oils in recent years, they > suggested oil changes at 7,000 mile intervals. They claimed that wear in > engines that had oil changes at 7,000 mile intervals were no more worn than > engines that had them at more frequently. They said that there is no > scientific basis for recommending changes at 3,000 mile intervals with > today's complex formulations and they are a waste of money and only make the > oil companies and oil changing shops richer. So, I'm definitely not getting > 3,000 mile changes and if I'm pulling a lot of weight, I will change at 5,000 > miles to be safe. > > Russ Martin > 2000 F150 Lariat 4X4 5.4L, Chestnut Brown > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. > > ------------------------------ From: RSnovi Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 23:58:03 EST Subject: Re: Bumper Suggestions? In a message dated 2/9/00 11:08:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, davesomers << The receiver mount winches are always suggested to me, but I've ruled them out for two reasons: 1) That winch is pretty damn heavy to be moving back and forth. 2) With the winch in the receiver, I can't hook up the trailer too. (I certainly wouldn't cantilever 1000lbs tongue weight out another 24" to put it beyond the winch) The rear winch is used for pulling cargo into the trailer as much as "unsticking" --How much do you need for trailer to pull on? Some of the smaller ones should do the trick. -- Unless you need front and rear access for truck, then your SOL. -- The bumpers are a nice piece i know of two friends in south TX that have them , they love them, I have seen them their tough. Great for those unexpected animals or whatever. Their are a few other companies that make them i have researched since i probably will be buying one sometime, they just dont seem to measure up. You probably wont see them anywhere up that was as most people really dont know about them. RS I checked out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ranchhand.com and liked the looks of the "front end replacement". Priced very reasonable too. (But didn't see rear winch option) I've never seen one in NJ (even the western part of the state). How do they look close up? Dave Somers >> ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 07:09:44 -0500 From: Dean Baruffi Subject: Computer code I sent superchips my computer programming code on the only sticker on the driver's door of my 2000 F-150. The code is: 0 F5 1 4D O B. My helms CD says it breaks down as follows: The 8 digit code breakdown is as follows: 0 - Model year (model year in which calibration strategy was first introduced) F5 - Vehicle code 1 - Transmission code 4D - Unique calibration (designates different hardware to similar vehicles). Example: tires, drive ratios, etc. O - Fleet code (describes fleet to which the vehicle belongs). Example: 6 - evaporative emissions B - Certification region (lead region where multiple regions are included in one calibration). Example: A - U.S. federal Ford now uses Protocol 3 to display this information. Superchips is looking for a code of: XYZ # (3 letters and a number). I cannot find this anywhere. Is it possible Ford does not use this code scheme anymore? My vehicle is a 2000 F-150 SC 4x2 5.4L Any help will be greatly appreciated. -Dean ------------------------------ From: "Zinski, Steve" Subject: Re: Computer code Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:32:55 -0500 The computer code can be found in two places. The first place is in the door jamb of the passenger's front door. Open the door and look between the hinges and you should see a little white sticker with a 4-digit code printed on it. The second place to look is on the wiring harness which plugs into the computer module itself. Look between your battery and the firewall and you'll see this rather large wiring harness poking out. There should be a little white sticker on it as well. And, if I'm not mistaken, I also believe there is a sticker on the computer module itself (mounted to the passenger-side kick panel up under the dash). --Steve Zinski -----Original Message----- From: Dean Baruffi [mailto:dean.baruffi Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 7:10 AM To: 97up-list Subject: [97up-list] Computer code I sent superchips my computer programming code on the only sticker on the driver's door of my 2000 F-150. The code is: 0 F5 1 4D O B. My helms CD says it breaks down as follows: The 8 digit code breakdown is as follows: 0 - Model year (model year in which calibration strategy was first introduced) F5 - Vehicle code 1 - Transmission code 4D - Unique calibration (designates different hardware to similar vehicles). Example: tires, drive ratios, etc. O - Fleet code (describes fleet to which the vehicle belongs). Example: 6 - evaporative emissions B - Certification region (lead region where multiple regions are included in one calibration). Example: A - U.S. federal Ford now uses Protocol 3 to display this information. Superchips is looking for a code of: XYZ # (3 letters and a number). I cannot find this anywhere. Is it possible Ford does not use this code scheme anymore? My vehicle is a 2000 F-150 SC 4x2 5.4L Any help will be greatly appreciated. -Dean ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:06:11 -0800 From: Jean Marc Chartier Subject: Re: No cool vent air "Zinski, Steve" wrote: > > My Honda Accord had the same problem. Turned out that the linkage to the > heater core shutoff valve was not aligned correctly. This allowed hot > coolant to flow through the core. A simple adjustment fixed the problem. > > --Steve > Steve, Ford products for some time now do not use a valve to divert coolant around the core. Hot coolant always flows through the heater core. The problem with the Explorer is that the air intake duct allows hot engine air to heat it so it pulls hot outside air into the cabin. I should have mentioned this on my previous post. Regards Jean Marc Chartier ------------------------------ Date: 10 Feb 00 09:09:57 EST From: Andthensometoo Subject: Oil Changes I am to lazy to retype stuff so if you want my Oil change story just check it out here: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/daytona/843/penske.html I will add follow up on this page soon ____________________________________________________________________ Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 ------------------------------ From: jmann Subject: Re: Oil Change Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:56:13 -0600 With that said, I thing you have to ask, between the two, who stands the most to gain by shorter change intervals? Also, I love my truck and grew up driving them and learned to drive in them. But if we all had SUV class/size vehicles then there would be much of an advantage, now would there? -----Original Message----- From: Keith Veren [mailto:Spectrum-EHS Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 10:48 PM To: 97up-list Subject: [97up-list] Re: Oil Change Consumer reports is also a leftist, SUV and Pickup-hating magazine that thinks we should have a health system like in Canada where thing are get worse by the minute. They love little 50 MPG eggshells and they will never just come out and state that your family is much safer in an Expedition, Excursion, Suburban etc. than an Altima or Corolla. Too bad they have such a philosophical bent, otherwise, they might be a good rag, but back to the oil test. They used cabs that run all day, so they do not have a lot of water buildup in the oil from those real short trips to the grocery store your wife takes. The test has been faulted by many in the oil industry and even they admit it may not apply to many people with different driving habits. Keith ------------------------------ From: "Union Auto" Subject: Re: Oil Change Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 08:55:42 -0600 I'd advise against going that long on an oil changer (or start saving for repair bills). A taxi starts in the morning and shuts off at night so its oil change interval would be much different than the normal driver. I change my oil every 2000 miles (and use synthetic). Nathan Bernard ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <97up-list Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 8:45 PM Subject: [97up-list] Re: Oil Change > Of course it depends on how much you work your truck, but about a year > ago, Consumer Reports did a test of motor oils and change intervals. They > used a fleet of Taxicabs in New York for the test. They put various oils in > them and then tore the engines down at different intervals to check for wear. > In the end, because of the improvement of oils in recent years, they > suggested oil changes at 7,000 mile intervals. They claimed that wear in > engines that had oil changes at 7,000 mile intervals were no more worn than > engines that had them at more frequently. They said that there is no > scientific basis for recommending changes at 3,000 mile intervals with > today's complex formulations and they are a waste of money and only make the > oil companies and oil changing shops richer. So, I'm definitely not getting > 3,000 mile changes and if I'm pulling a lot of weight, I will change at 5,000 > miles to be safe. > > Russ Martin > 2000 F150 Lariat 4X4 5.4L, Chestnut Brown > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 11:39:58 -0800 From: Jean Marc Chartier Subject: Re: Computer code Dean Baruffi wrote: > > I sent superchips my computer programming code on the only sticker on the > driver's door of my 2000 F-150. The code is: 0 F5 1 4D O B. My helms CD > says it breaks down as follows: > > The 8 digit code breakdown is as follows: > 0 - Model year (model year in which calibration strategy was first introduced) > F5 - Vehicle code > 1 - Transmission code > 4D - Unique calibration (designates different hardware to similar > vehicles). Example: tires, drive ratios, etc. > O - Fleet code (describes fleet to which the vehicle belongs). Example: 6 - > evaporative emissions > B - Certification region (lead region where multiple regions are included > in one calibration). Example: A - U.S. federal > > Ford now uses Protocol 3 to display this information. > > Superchips is looking for a code of: XYZ # (3 letters and a number). I > cannot find this anywhere. Is it possible Ford does not use this code > scheme anymore? > > My vehicle is a 2000 F-150 SC 4x2 5.4L > > Any help will be greatly appreciated. > > -Dean > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. Dean, Look between the hinges of the passenger door. Failing this look on the PCM. Regards Jean Marc Chartier ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:20:08 -0800 From: johny Subject: Re: Re. Receiver hitch. I've heard the limitation is due to the shear strength of the pin. I've heard it's rated at 10,000 lbs. Heard this from my local 4x4 store, but never tried to verify the data. Anyone heard different? CERESJohnG > a 12K winch would be a bit much for a receiver winch mount. I think Warn > limits theirs to 9000 lbs and sells the total package with the 8000# winch. > > Ramsey on the other hand I think limits theirs to 6000#. > > I generally stay a bit cautious with mine, If it looks like a serious load, I > use the snatchblock and come back to one of the tow hooks. That cuts the load > on the winch mount by half for any pull, Still doesn't help tho if the winch > is over capacity and you use it all. > > JG > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ From: "Jason Holmes" Subject: Re: Oil Change Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 11:00:50 PST I mean no offense, but your logic seems faulted. If a taxi has constant use (moreso than the normal driver) the change frequency would be sooner not later. Conversely, if one does not put a heavy strain on the engine (or oil) the time between changes would increase. >From: "Union Auto" > >I'd advise against going that long on an oil changer (or start saving for >repair bills). A taxi starts in the morning and shuts off at night so its >oil change interval would be much different than the normal driver. I >change my oil every 2000 miles (and use synthetic). > >Nathan Bernard > > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:23:00 -0500 From: Dean Baruffi Subject: 4R100 drain plug I just took a look at the 4R100 transmisson section on my Helms CD as I wanted to read the section on how to remove the transmission pan. It says I should have a drain plug on my 4R100 transmission pan but I do not. It also says there is a torque converted drain plug. I have not check this yet. Has anyone checked to see if their torque converter has a drain plug on it? My vehicle is a 2000 F-150 SC, 4x2 SC, 5.4L with California emissions. -Dean ------------------------------ From: "Keith Veren" Subject: Re: Oil Change Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:50:19 -0500 Wrong. It's just the opposite. The killer of oil is short runs where the oil does not get hot enough to evaporate all the water and acid -gas byproducts that form during the first 15 minutes after starting. After an engine is running at the proper temperature, the blow-by is well reduced, the water vapor input into the crankcase is just about eliminated, and the contaminating acid-gases cannot condense on the cylinder walls and contaminate the lubricating film. Kind of like certain electrical equipment that lasts much longer if always left on because the wear is caused by thermal cycles, not static warmth. Keith ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jason Holmes" To: <97up-list Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 2:00 PM Subject: [97up-list] Re: Oil Change > I mean no offense, but your logic seems faulted. If a taxi has constant use > (moreso than the normal driver) the change frequency would be sooner not > later. Conversely, if one does not put a heavy strain on the engine (or oil) > the time between changes would increase. > > > > >From: "Union Auto" > > > >I'd advise against going that long on an oil changer (or start saving for > >repair bills). A taxi starts in the morning and shuts off at night so its > >oil change interval would be much different than the normal driver. I > >change my oil every 2000 miles (and use synthetic). > > > >Nathan Bernard > > > > > > > ______________________________________________________ > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:12:49 -0600 Subject: Re: Oil Change...long post From: Glenn S See <<<....... if one does not put a heavy strain on the engine (or oil) the time between changes would increase....>>> If stress and strain were the only factors affecting engine wear then the above statement would be substantially correct. However, other factors, primarily thermal cycling of the engine and ambient humidity fluctuations, will affect the purity, and therefore the lubricating and preservative qualities, of the oil. Beyond the obvious expansion and contraction of parts due to temperature changes (which can initiate metal fatigue by itself), each time the engine cools down after use an amount of moisture laden air is drawn into the engine. This moisture will produce contaminants by reacting with bare metal surfaces, wear products on the metal surfaces, and wear products in the oil. Eventually these contaminants will affect the ability of the oil to lubricate and protect the engine components, regardless of how "efficient" the filtering system is (better filtration can lengthen the time to oil "breakdown" but not prevent the eventual loss of oil quality and purity). This moisture interaction occurs in all rotating machinery, even greased bearings and "sealed" bearings and is considered to be leading cause of "random" bearing failures in industry. There are no perfect seals. The idea was mentioned in earlier posts....theoretically, if you could run your engine continuously, with adequate filtration, the engine life (and oil life) would be substantially longer than if you ran the engine for short periods frequently. Also, even if you did not run the engine, the daily/seasonal fluctuations in ambient humidity are enough to cause moisture intrusion in machinery and damage rotating component surfaces. Nature works in insidious ways. This is a primary reason manufacturers include a time factor in their schedules for oil changes. This moisture intrusion phenomena is not my personal theory, but was related to me by a retired Exxon employee who was their lead engineer on rotating machinery with several decades experience in the field of lubrication science. Bottom line, you can't change the oil too often. It becomes an economic decision how often. It should be noted that oil condition is only one variable in engine wear. Personally, I change the oil in my '98 F-150 every 3000 miles (as recommended for "severe" service in the service manual). Submitted to offer some additional insight into lubrication theory. Steve ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 12:02:01 -0800 (PST) From: Hunter Subject: Re: Oil Change WOW 2000 mile, if I did my math right and your truck take 6 qt. $5 each for synthetic. That's close to $1000 for me. + gas + INS. + brake +...etc. I would've never drove a car or truck. I thought our trucks should be 100,000 for tune-up and you need to change it around 4000 mile with 5w-30. Nathan, Let me know when you want to sell your truck...:o) Hunter > >I'd advise against going that long on an oil changer (or start saving for > >repair bills). A taxi starts in the morning and shuts off at night so its > >oil change interval would be much different than the normal driver. I > >change my oil every 2000 miles (and use synthetic). > > > >Nathan Bernard __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ From: RSnovi Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:59:55 EST Subject: Re: 4R100 drain plug In a message dated 2/10/00 2:26:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, dean.baruffi mine is direct center of alum pan of 4R100 in 99 F250 PSD , 4x4. i was unaware of other drain in the converter area. Will take a gander next time. RS << Subj: [97up-list] 4R100 drain plug Date: 2/10/00 2:26:11 PM Eastern Standard Time From: dean.baruffi Sender: 97up-list-bounce Reply-to: 97up-list To: 97up-list I just took a look at the 4R100 transmisson section on my Helms CD as I wanted to read the section on how to remove the transmission pan. It says I should have a drain plug on my 4R100 transmission pan but I do not. It also says there is a torque converted drain plug. I have not check this yet. Has anyone checked to see if their torque converter has a drain plug on it? My vehicle is a 2000 F-150 SC, 4x2 SC, 5.4L with California emissions. -Dean ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the message. ----------------------- Headers -------------------------------- Return-Path: <97up-list-bounce Received: from rly-zd04.mx.aol.com (rly-zd04.mail.aol.com [172.31.33.228]) by air-zd03.mail.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:26:11 -0500 Received: from ford-trucks.com (ford-trucks.com [209.50.251.152]) by rly-zd04.mx.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:25:07 -0500 Received: from ford-trucks.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by ford-trucks.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA22718; Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:21:30 -0500 Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 97up-list); Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:21:29 -0500 (EST) Received: from pantheon-po02.its.yale.edu (pantheon-po02.its.yale.edu [130.132.143.33]) by ford-trucks.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA22712 for <97up-list Received: from rm411a (rm411a.yhp.yale.edu [130.132.154.58]) by pantheon-po02.its.yale.edu (8.8.8/8.8.8) with SMTP id OAA21617 for <97up-list Message-Id: <200002101924.OAA21617 X-Sender: dab67 X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.0.1 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 14:23:00 -0500 To: 97up-list From: Dean Baruffi Subject: [97up-list] 4R100 drain plug Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-listar-version: Listar v0.128a Sender: 97up-list-bounce Errors-to: 97up-list-bounce X-original-sender: dean.baruffi Precedence: bulk Reply-to: 97up-list X-list: 97up-list >> ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:33:55 -0700 From: "Joseph L. Casey" Subject: Re: 4R100 drain plug I have a torque convertor drain plug on my 99 Powerstroke. Dean Baruffi wrote: > I just took a look at the 4R100 transmisson section on my Helms CD as I > wanted to read the section on how to remove the transmission pan. It says > I should have a drain plug on my 4R100 transmission pan but I do not. It > also says there is a torque converted drain plug. I have not check this > yet. Has anyone checked to see if their torque converter has a drain plug > on it? > > My vehicle is a 2000 F-150 SC, 4x2 SC, 5.4L with California emissions. > > -Dean > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 13:28:43 -0800 From: johny Subject: Re: 4R100 drain plug I can't tell you about the F150, but on a 99 SD, there is a plug on the pan, and a plug on the torque converter. Recently refilled with Mobil 1 ATF, and notice almost a 5F - 7F temperature drop on the transmission on highway cruising. I'm impressed. (I've heard some of the Amsoil guys claiming up to 10F, and with some margin of error on the measuring devices, I believe it) Dean Baruffi wrote: > I just took a look at the 4R100 transmisson section on my Helms CD as I > wanted to read the section on how to remove the transmission pan. It says > I should have a drain plug on my 4R100 transmission pan but I do not. It > also says there is a torque converted drain plug. I have not check this > yet. Has anyone checked to see if their torque converter has a drain plug > on it? > > My vehicle is a 2000 F-150 SC, 4x2 SC, 5.4L with California emissions. > > -Dean > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. ------------------------------ From: jmann Subject: Kick plates Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:21:30 -0600 Ok, I'm not exactly sure if they call them kick plates, but you know that strip of plastic trim on the floor of the truck, at the edge of the door opening, that is hidden when the door is closed?? I hope that's a good enough explanation. Anyway, does anyone know where I might find some nice chrome steel or polished aluminum ones. Since this is one of the first places I step when getting in the truck, they tend to show where faster. Metal would look nicer and last longer. Thanks Joe Austin, TX. Let your friends know that they can register to win one of 10 $1000 gift certificates at living.com. They just need to click here http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://promotions.yahoo.com/promotions/living3/ to register. Pass it on! Sorry, had to put a plug in for the old company. ------------------------------ From: jmann Subject: Re: 4R100 drain plug Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:31:55 -0600 Do the 4R100 and the 4R70W take the same type of transmission fluid? And does Mobil 1 make an oil for differentials. -----Original Message----- From: johny [mailto:johny Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 3:29 PM To: 97up-list Subject: [97up-list] Re: 4R100 drain plug I can't tell you about the F150, but on a 99 SD, there is a plug on the pan, and a plug on the torque converter. Recently refilled with Mobil 1 ATF, and notice almost a 5F - 7F temperature drop on the transmission on highway cruising. I'm impressed. (I've heard some of the Amsoil guys claiming up to 10F, and with some margin of error on the measuring devices, I believe it) Dean Baruffi wrote: > I just took a look at the 4R100 transmisson section on my Helms CD as I > wanted to read the section on how to remove the transmission pan. It says > I should have a drain plug on my 4R100 transmission pan but I do not. It > also says there is a torque converted drain plug. I have not check this > yet. Has anyone checked to see if their torque converter has a drain plug > on it? > > My vehicle is a 2000 F-150 SC, 4x2 SC, 5.4L with California emissions. > > -Dean > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the > message. ========================================================== To unsubscribe, send email to: listar the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the body of the message. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:15:25 -0800 Subject: Re: 4R100 drain plug From: Rob Bryan No...the 4R100 takes Mercon (aka Dextron II), the 4R70W uses Mercon V which is much harder to find (especially in a synthetic that doesn't cost $8/qt like the Redline stuff). FWIW, the 4R100 on my dad's '99 5.4L Expedition has a drain plug on the pan. Rob > From: jmann > Reply-To: 97up-list > Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 17:31:55 -0600 > To: 97up-list > Subject: [97up-list] Re: 4R100 drain plug > > Do the 4R100 and the 4R70W take the same type of transmission fluid? And > does Mobil 1 make an oil for differentials. > > -----Original Message----- > From: johny [mailto:johny > Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 3:29 PM > To: 97up-list > Subject: [97up-list] Re: 4R100 drain plug > > I can't tell you about the F150, but on a 99 SD, there is a plug on the pan, > and a plug on the torque converter. Recently refilled with Mobil 1 ATF, > and notice almost a 5F - 7F temperature drop on the transmission on > highway cruising. > > I'm impressed. (I've heard some of the Amsoil guys claiming up to 10F, and > with some margin of error on the measuring devices, I believe it) > > > Dean Baruffi wrote: > >> I just took a look at the 4R100 transmisson section on my Helms CD as I >> wanted to read the section on how to remove the transmission pan. It says >> I should have a drain plug on my 4R100 transmission pan but I do not. It >> also says there is a torque converted drain plug. I have not check this >> yet. Has anyone checked to see if their torque converter has a drain plug >> on it? >> >> My vehicle is a 2000 F-150 SC, 4x2 SC, 5.4L with California emissions. >> >> -Dean ------------------------------ End of 97up-list Digest V2000 #2 ******************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1997 and Newer Truck List Send posts to 97up-list If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar with the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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