Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages
contained in these archives without consent from the respective
author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on
any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by
individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors.

Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list 97up-list); Wed, 12 Jul 2000 01:21:41 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 01:21:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: 97up-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: 97up-list Digest V2000 #117
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1997 and Newer Truck Mailing
List(Use the Small Chassis List for Rangers, Explorers,
Aerostars and Bronco IIs.

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
97up-list Digest Tue, 11 Jul 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 117

In This Issue:
Re: Trailer wiring
new additions to 99SD
Re: Trailer wiring
Powerstroke Block
Powerstroke Block
Re: Powerstroke Block
Possible Electricial Problem
Impending Transmission Problems

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: RSnovi aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 01:27:17 EDT
Subject: Re: Trailer wiring

In a message dated 7/11/00 12:46:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
bronco78 alaska.com writes:

<<

Hello all, been on the list for some time now, but been standing on the side
for a few months now. Just too darn much to do for an upcoming trip..Which
brings on the question.

Have 97 F350 CC, PSD, 4X4, LB, that I purchased used last year. I have only
the basic knowledge of what it came equipped with, I know the power and
drive train, engine control, and what I believe is a factory installed 4
wire flat trailer wiring harness. The problem and question is,, I now have
a need to wire in a electronic brake controller and rewire or convert the 4
wire flat to 7 wire for a trailer I'm getting in a few days when I go
through Canada. SO.... Does somebody make an adapter to use the existing
out put from the 4 wire?? I assume if so, I'll still have 3 more connections
to wire up? If I'm reading the wiring diagrams correctly, the four wires
from the 4 flat are directly used in the 7 wire setup, now I just wire in
the three additional circuits..correct? 1: will be the input from the
controller to the plug, to the trailer brakes; 1 will be a hot lead, to the
plug, to AUX. system on the trailer (if it uses this) and 1 will be hot
lead, to the plug, to the trailer battery (again if it uses this)

-- If you have time ask someone at a hitch or trailer place local, if you
insist on tackling it.

The trailer in question is a 30ft flat bed, equipment transport, 2 ea.
5,500# axles (so this would be four brakes? or two?) I do not believe it
will use the AUX. circuit, and unless it has a battery powered breakaway
system, it should not have a use for the trailer bat circuit.......correct??
--
It should have a breakaway being that big! Or i would highly recommend
it.should be at least 2 axle if not 3 depending on the weight. 4 brake
system, most all units are atleast that I think. I recommend a Drawtite
Activator 2, I love mine , the technology and price you can't beat it. I
have had many others, Reese (good), Tenoksha ( hate'um)

Gang, am I missing something here???? On the one hand, I have a ton of
vehicle mechanical experience, and many hours of wiring, rewiring, OEM and
after market systems,, BUT this seems to easy, feels like I have forgot
something. Any help that can be provided, clarification or correction of my
ideas would be much appreciated. I will be towing a small auto transporter
using the OEM 4 wire flat, to can, so I really do not want to destroy that
setup, rather use it in the adaptation.

TIA
>>


Ross Smith
99F250 SD PSD/4x4/SC
9sec93cobra
Florida State University
National Champs (again)

------------------------------

From: RSnovi aol.com
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 01:49:15 EDT
Subject: new additions to 99SD

While i was punted off the list momentarily i added some new things that i am
delighted to say have improved driveabilty 10x.

Skyjacker Leveling Kit 2 1/2 , add spring and relocated track bar, if anyone
is ready to tackle one, let me know i have TIPS. est install time: 3/4 day
takeing my time and no lift, 2 jacks and stands Also Just added today 4
RS9000s. Install time 1 1/2 hr. on the ground.
The shocks really made a ton of difference on body roll and the truck
doesnt jump and skip on bumps in the road anymore. I can't wait to load it
and get out on the road and see what it feels like sometime. I can't think
of much else the truck need , uh wait a minunte here goes the list, winch,
big cattle bumper, 16x8 rims, OEM speakers have to go.
I found a killer deal place online in Idaho for the milemaker hydraulic
winchs, i am leaning more towards those later on. I figure I will need about
10,500 to cover the truck weight.



Ross Smith
99F250 SD PSD/4x4/SC
9sec93cobra
Florida State University
National Champs (again)

------------------------------

From: davesomers worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Trailer wiring
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:11:58 -0400

Erik,
yes you are correct in believing that the 4 wires from the 4flat will carry
over to the 7way. Here are a few of my observations:

First off: those little plastic connectors (usually blue for the wires
we're dealing with) that just press over the wires to tap in will give you
problems in a year or two as the wire corrodes where it is exposed to the
air and moisture. If you are splicing into a wire, I would strip about 1"
in the middle of the wire, split the strands, feed the new wire into the
split and wrap it around. (good physical connection) Then solder it
properly (good electrical connection) and seal it in good (name brand - not
department store) electrical tape or heat shrink. (good insulation) I have
used that technique on many projects over the last 20 years and have never
had to revisit a splice.

The quick way may be to get a trailer end 4flat connector, plug that into
your truck and then connect the other end to the 7way truck end. Just add
the brake controller, battery, aux wires and you're set. If you'll only
need this once that may be easiest. (see below comment on ground)
However, I think the best way may be to permanently install the 7way.
Either splice into the 4flat behind the truck end or cut off the 4flat and
then make an adapter for 7way to 4flat. I just have the 7way, and an
assortment of adapters.

Speaking of adapters - make sure that you are putting the correct 7way in.
There are ones with round pins and ones with flat pins.

To get the brake output, you will have to install a brake controller in the
cab (and connected under the hood to the master cylinder plumbing depending
on design). I don't think I've ever seen a unit that can't handle at least
4 brakes, (they count number of brakes - not axles), but read the
instructions to be sure.
You are correct about the HOT (BATT) output - if there is no trailer
battery you won't need it. Here in NJ it wouldn't be legal to have
electric brakes on a trailer that size without the breakaway brake system.
My experience has been that many RV and race car trailers use the AUX
circuit for backup lights. They aren't required, but they sure are nice
when you're trying to park at night and the trailer has blocked all the
light from your truck.
Most 4flat connectors use 16-14 ga wire. That's ok for a few brake lights,
but when you start adding the brakes and battery charge, the ground can be
overwhelmed. In theory it may survive since the hitch connection also
provides some grounding, but consider connecting a larger wire to the frame
when wiring in the 7way. (I think the 7way standard is 10 ga).

One more caveat from my experience: some percentage of the folks who
install a round connector mirror image miswire it. Make sure you are
paying attention to the diagram and whether it's from the front or back as
you look at the connectors. (I haven't found this problem with rental yard
trailers, but when I borrow from one friend...it isn't a problem for him
because his truck is also backwards - 2 wrongs do make a right)

Hope this helps,
Dave
------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" alaska.com>
Subject: Trailer wiring
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 20:41:26 -0800
If I'm reading the wiring diagrams correctly, the four wires
from the 4 flat are directly used in the 7 wire setup, now I just wire in
the three additional circuits..correct? 1: will be the input from the
controller to the plug, to the trailer brakes; 1 will be a hot lead, to the
plug, to AUX. system on the trailer (if it uses this) and 1 will be hot
lead, to the plug, to the trailer battery (again if it uses this)

The trailer in question is a 30ft flat bed, equipment transport, 2 ea.
5,500# axles (so this would be four brakes? or two?) I do not believe it
will use the AUX. circuit, and unless it has a battery powered breakaway
system, it should not have a use for the trailer bat
circuit.......correct??



------------------------------

From: "Scott Matus" hotmail.com>
Subject: Powerstroke Block
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 06:37:03 PDT

I'm curious for later down the road for engine rebuild.

Does anyone know if the Powerstroke has cylinder liners?

Or is it a monoblock?

Thanks much,

Scott
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Scott Matus" hotmail.com>
Subject: Powerstroke Block
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 06:37:05 PDT

I'm curious for later down the road for engine rebuild.

Does anyone know if the Powerstroke has cylinder liners?

Or is it a monoblock?

Thanks much,

Scott
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Pete Calabrese" banet.net>
Subject: Re: Powerstroke Block
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:41:40 -0400

Yes, the cylinders are lined.

___________________________________________________________________
1991 Mustang LX Coupe 347 : 12.14 112 No NOS yet! : 3240w/driver
493RWHP/582RWTQ Griggs, Wilwood, NOS : 11.64 121.53 A few years back...
Hudson Valley 5.0 #00 Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club 924EM
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.snkypete.com
1993 Taurus SHO:LPM, C&L : 1998 SeaDoo XPLimited - Coffman equipped!
2000 F-350 CrewCab Powerstroke Lariat LE Dually

-----Original Message-----
From: 97up-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:97up-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Scott Matus
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 9:37 AM
To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
Cc: precise1 mail.execpc.com
Subject: [97up-list] Powerstroke Block


I'm curious for later down the road for engine rebuild.

Does anyone know if the Powerstroke has cylinder liners?

Or is it a monoblock?

Thanks much,

Scott
________________________________________________________________________

==========================================================
To unsubscribe:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.



------------------------------

From: "Andy" mindspring.com>
Subject: Possible Electricial Problem
Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:07:15 -0400

I hope this problem is not as bizarre to someone as it is to me. I have a
98 F-150 5.4 with 66,000 miles. About 2 weeks ago, when I would turn the
turn indicator up to indicate a right turn, the click would be very fast.
So I figured that I blew a bulb somewhere. The next time I used it, it
worked fine. I replaced the tail light bulb, it was looking worn. The next
morning, it did it again. It seems all bulbs are in working order. As it
turns out, it only blinks fast the first time it is used in the morning. I
also noticed that the dash light does not light either. I can turn it on,
blinks fast, then turn off the indicator, then turn it back on again, and it
is fine. This morning, the left started acting up. Figures this would
happen as soon as my warranty ran out... Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks for the help in advance!

Regards,
Andy
Personal Aircraft Photography
Sortie City
www.sortiecity.com
From F-14's, F-16's and F-18's to the F-22 and many in between.
Dobbins ARB- Marietta, Ga.
Amateur Radio: KG4FDK





------------------------------

From: tvsjr sprynet.com
Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 01:19:49 -0500
Subject: Impending Transmission Problems

Well, after 180K miles with my 97 Expedition (XLT, 4x2, 4.6L, 3.31LS), it
would seem that my 4R70W transmission is starting to go south. I'm
beginning to see a hesitation and slippage shifting out of overdrive,
especially when I'm only running about 45mph and lugging the 4.6L engine up
a small hill. I also had a failed shift from 3-->2 under heavy acceleration
(foot on the floor) a few days ago. The tranny fluid only has about 10K
miles on it, so it is nice and clean.

That being said, it's time for me to look into transmission
rebuilds/replacement. I could have an independant shop do the rebuild, but
I would rather have Ford put a brand new transmission in. Does anyone know
an approximate cost for a new (preferably not Ford-rebuilt) 4R70W? What is
the normal price range for a rebuild, Ford or otherwise?

Final question... When the transmission gets rebuilt/replaced, I was
thinking about adding a shift kit to firm things up a little bit. Has
anyone done this to this transmission? If so, what does it take to install?
I would like to have whoever does the rebuild/replacement to add the shift
kit. Does anyone have suggestions as to brand and possible price range? Or,
is this ill-advised for my truck?

I hope some of that makes sense =) If anyone has some information, tips,
etc., I would appreciate hearing from you.
TIA
Terry



------------------------------

End of 97up-list Digest V2000 #117....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.