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Please do not repost, forward or otherwise publish messages contained in these archives without consent from the respective author(s). These archives may not, in whole or part, be stored on any public retrieval system (FTP, web, gopher, newsgroup, etc.) by individuals or companies, without consent of the respective authors. Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list 97up-list); Wed, 28 Jun 2000 16:30:42 -0400 (EDT) Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 16:30:42 -0400 (EDT) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: 97up-list digest users Reply-to: 97up-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: 97up-list Digest V2000 #110 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1997 and Newer Truck Mailing List(Use the Small Chassis List for Rangers, Explorers, Aerostars and Bronco IIs. Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ 97up-list Digest Tue, 27 Jun 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 110 In This Issue: Re: Idiot Gauge Re: 4x4 - Useless (weekend story) Re: 4x4 - Useless (weekend story) ROAD TRIP Re: 4x4 - Useless (weekend story) Clutch Hanging Up F150 vs (C or K 1500) Re: F150 vs (C or K 1500) Re: F150 vs (C or K 1500) Aux Tank? Re: Aux Tank? Re: Aux Tank? Re: ROAD TRIP Oil Re: Oil Re: Clutch Hanging Up Re: V-10 Performance Tips ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rb White Associates" Subject: Re: Idiot Gauge Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 23:09:55 -0400 The computer tester ( full unit OEM specs) reads out the Oil Pressure in as little as 1 lb increments from a low of +/- 18lbs 750RPM to a peak of 50 +LBS 1500 RPM on a '92 bowtie 3.1L (just checked yesterday), about the the same on a 96 mopar 3.5L, and more of the same on '00 FoMoCo TD.. Maybe there is an aftermarket kit that will read out this info (also works as well on water temp) regards bw ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marv & Marge" To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 12:46 AM Subject: [97up-list] Re: Idiot Gauge > I recently wrote: > > Check the archives. It seems that an '87 Bronco sender, combined with jumping over > > an existing 20 ohm resistor restores it to "old-time" type operation. > > Forget I ever said this on this forum! It may apply to one or more of the other FTE > lists I read, but not here! Sorry....... > -Marv- > <><><><> Win $50,000, Sony TV's and Sony Radios! <><><><> > Simply sign up for RacingOne.com's free e-mail newsletter. > Our newsletter provides you with breaking auto-racing news. > For each person who signs up for the free newsletter, we will > make a donation to Speedway Children's Charities. You get the > inside story on breaking auto-racing news and children get a > better future. > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://opt-influence.com/a/racing3/ > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe: > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 01:16:48 -0400 From: Jean Marc Chartier Subject: Re: 4x4 - Useless (weekend story) jmann living.com wrote: > > What I can't figure out is how I was able to apply full power (5.4 Triton), > in 4x4 low, in reverse on sand, hooked to the stuck jeep and not break loose > a SINGLE TIRE!! The truck just grunted. That blows my mind. > > OH, and isn't the transfer case supposed to be deferential-less, in other > words approximately half the power to the front and half to the back. I have > a limited slip 3.55 and the only tire spinning at the time was the front > left. > Joe, Unless something is broken it is impossible to have only one front wheel spinning and the remaining three motionless. The front and rear drive shafts turn at the same speed. If both the rear wheels are motionless then the rear drive shaft is motionless. If the rear drive shaft is motionless then the front drive shaft is motionless. If the front drive shaft is motionless then the front wheels can not turn. Are you sure both rear wheels were stationary? Do not falsely assume that because one tire of a limited slip differential is turning that the opposite tire is also turning. In some situations one tire can spin and the other remain motionless. Try this out; Stop with one tire on the road and the other on the gravel shoulder. In first gear mash the throttle and watch the tire in the gravel spin. kindest regards Jean Marc Chartier ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 01:45:33 -0500 From: Steve #1 Subject: Re: 4x4 - Useless (weekend story) jmann living.com wrote: > What I can't figure out is how I was able to apply full power (5.4 Triton), > in 4x4 low, in reverse on sand, hooked to the stuck jeep and not break loose > a SINGLE TIRE!! The truck just grunted. That blows my mind. > > OH, and isn't the transfer case supposed to be deferential-less, in other > words approximately half the power to the front and half to the back. I have > a limited slip 3.55 and the only tire spinning at the time was the front > left. If I read your original post correctly I can tell you what happened. Correct me if I'm wrong. When you said the truck didn't spin a single tire, I'm guessing the RPM went up, the strap got tight and the tires just sat there? Is this right? If so, your problem (if you want to call it a problem) was that you were getting to much traction and the power was being converted to heat by the torque converter (I'm assuming you have an auto). The trick to freeing a stuck vehicle is to yank it out (this is why stretchy "snatch" straps work best). I'll be the first to admit that our trucks aren't invincible, but no 4X4 is, and the F150 is VERY capable. I can't count the number of "hard core" off roaders that have told me how impressed they were with my stock non ORP F150. I have to give my driving style some of the credit. I've been offroading for a while and know that with the F150 you just have to give it more gas, and sometimes that means things get broke, but you know what they say....If you want to play you have to pay. See pics of Saturday's carnage at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/f15099/360_6_24_00/360_6_24_00.htm There aren't any pics of it but I had no problem extracting a Cherokee that high centered in some ruts even though my truck started sinking in the mud while we hooked up the strap -- Steve #1 '99 F150 "Little Foot" Regular Cab XLT 5.4 4X4 '97 Mustang GT 4.6 < FOR SALE > '87 K5 Blazer "Monster" Silverado 350 4X4 < FOR SALE > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/f15099/ When you come to a fork in the road... Go straight. ------------------------------ From: "Mark Browning" Subject: ROAD TRIP Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 08:13:16 EDT I was wondering if there is anything i should do for my 99 ford f150 before a 1000k trip... well 1000k one way and 1000k back.. i'm going to drive it straight the whole way... any suggestions? thanks Mark 99 F150 XLT 4.2L 2wd ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: boltnut mindspring.com Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 07:22:53 -0500 Subject: Re: 4x4 - Useless (weekend story) It really sounds to me like you didn't have it in Low gear. Or what I did once trying to pull someone out of some snow... I pulled and pulled for 20 min and couldn't understand why I was having such a problem.. :-0 Looked down and had the e-brake on. Opps At 01:16 AM 6/28/00 -0400, you wrote: >jmann living.com wrote: >> >> What I can't figure out is how I was able to apply full power (5.4 Triton), >> in 4x4 low, in reverse on sand, hooked to the stuck jeep and not break loose >> a SINGLE TIRE!! The truck just grunted. That blows my mind. >> >> OH, and isn't the transfer case supposed to be deferential-less, in other >> words approximately half the power to the front and half to the back. I have >> a limited slip 3.55 and the only tire spinning at the time was the front >> left. >> > >Joe, > > Unless something is broken it is impossible to have only >one front wheel spinning and the remaining three >motionless. The front and rear drive shafts turn at the >same speed. If both the rear wheels are motionless then the >rear drive shaft is motionless. If the rear drive shaft is >motionless then the front drive shaft is motionless. If the >front drive shaft is motionless then the front wheels can >not turn. Are you sure both rear wheels were stationary? >Do not falsely assume that because one tire of a limited >slip differential is turning that the opposite tire is also >turning. In some situations one tire can spin and the other >remain motionless. >Try this out; Stop with one tire on the road and the other >on the gravel shoulder. In first gear mash the throttle and >watch the tire in the gravel spin. > >kindest regards > >Jean Marc Chartier >========================================================== >To unsubscribe: >http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > > ------------------------------ From: DanBrotzman Subject: Clutch Hanging Up Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:02:18 -0500 Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 20:01:12 -0500 From: Bob Wickline Subject: Problem with SuperDuty Clutch I have close to 48K miles on my '99 F350/CC/SRW/6-speed/PSD and I'm having something weird happening to the clutch. When the truck is cold the clutch seems to work fine and has plenty of travel. But when I drive for a long distance (especially towing) the clutch looses travel and sometimes preventing me from placing it in gear at stops (have to kill engine to put in gear). Anyone seen or heard of this behavior? And better yet what to do about it? I'm about due for routine maintenance and will probably have it looked at then but I would like to know what's happening beforehand. The clutch is part of the powertrain right? (warranty purposes) Thanks, Bob W. Bob, I had this same problem with my 1986 F350 Diesel CC 4X4 4-speed. The problem was the throw out bearing not sliding smoothly over the input shaft of the transmission. About once a year I had to take the rubber boot off the clutch fork openning, disengage the clutch fork from the pivot ball, then reach up inside and apply a light coating of "Never-Seize" to the transmission input shaft. This would work good for about a year, then I would have to do it again. BTW I took it to a dealer the first time and they just sprayed some silicon on the input shaft, lasted about 3 months. If this is infact your problem, plan on an hour or so because there is not much space to work in. I now have a 99.5 F350 PSD CC 4X4 6-speed with 7,000 miles and notice the sycronizer for 4th gear allows a very slight miss-match when shifting, you can feel it slip about one tooth before going into gear. I'm sure when I take the truck in for the fuel tank recall the dealer will test drive it and tell me nothing is wrong ... until it is out of warranty then they will suddenly discover there is in fact a problem. Also my transfer case took a dump at 4,200 miles with out any warning, and my driving is all highway, no off road. ------------------------------ From: DanBrotzman Subject: F150 vs (C or K 1500) Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:56:44 -0500 > I am now contemplating a purchase of such vehicle to tow a small-to-medium > size trailer. I test drove both F150 and Chev 1500 and I can't make up my > mind just on the basis of technical parameters and ride. You indicate you pull a small trailer, how small? Snowmobile trailer, pop-up camper, travel trailer, flat utility, horse trailer ... ? I to have a ABCDM-PN CDL licence, and am an ASE certified Diesel engine, Gasoline engine, and Heavy Duty electrical mechanic. In my opinion ( remember opinions are like hineders...everyone has one and they all stink) if you tow less than 3,000 LBS the "half ton" cars are just fine. My preference would be a Ford body on a GM running gear if you put more than 100,000 miles on a vehicle before trading or selling. If you sell or trade before 100,000 miles either truck will work well. If you tow over 3,000 LBS but under 6,000 LBS go for a Super Duty F250 truck. The new Super Duties are a new body design and should hold their resale, while the GM is a more suttle redesign of their older body design. For towing over 6,000 LBS I would recommend a F350. I've spent almost 30 years towing trailers with pick-up trucks with trailers weighting 2,000 LBS to 18,000 LBS. In my opinion (there we go with that "opinion" word again) if you are into towing, you can't buy enough pick-up truck. If your "truck" is used as a general commuter car then stick with the F150 or 1500's for better gas milage. My 99 F350 diesel, 4X4, crew cab, 6-speed rides very comfortable, gets 12 - 13 mpg towing 7,500 to 8,500 LBS and I have gotten a best of 23mpg empty, yes 23mpg is correct doing it by manually dividing the number of miles driven by the gallons to fill the tank up into the filler neck. Best milage was driving two lane road at or under 55 mph. Dan Wisconsin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 09:41:29 -0700 From: johny Subject: Re: F150 vs (C or K 1500) > My 99 F350 diesel, 4X4, crew cab, 6-speed rides very comfortable, gets 12 - 13 mpg towing 7,500 to 8,500 LBS and I have gotten a best of 23mpg empty, yes 23mpg is correct doing it by manually dividing the number of miles driven by the gallons to fill the tank up into the filler neck. Best milage was driving two lane road at or under 55 mph. > Dan > Wisconsin Back in Jan 99, I got 20+ driving from Las Vegas Nv to Ridgemont Calif, going through Death Valley Ca. (via Pahrump NV/badwater). For a 7000+ lbs 4x4 that's shaped like a big brick, that's outstanding. (I also had under 10K miles on the truck too!) But as noted, slower speeds (and staying off the boost) are key. I too was mostly under 55mph. I also do the paper/pencil calculation. 99 F350 SC 4x4 PSD auto short bed 265/75/16 tires. Diesels at idle get something like a whopping 40:1 air/fuel ratio. Gas engines do something like 20:1 and go down from there. ------------------------------ From: "Pete Calabrese" Subject: Re: F150 vs (C or K 1500) Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 12:59:52 -0400 My friend still regularly gets over 600 miles to a tank before the low fuel light comes on at around the 6 gal mark. Me, on the other hand, I'm still getting about 15mpg on a regular basis - just passed 9k miles. Probably has something to do with cruising at 75/80mph :) Going to drop it down to 70mph for a week or two on his suggestion. He says the difference in mpg between 60-65 and 70mph is noticeable (he gets better mpg at 70 than 60-65). ___________________________________________________________________ 1991 Mustang LX Coupe 347 : 12.14 112 No NOS yet! : 3240w/driver 493RWHP/582RWTQ Griggs, Wilwood, NOS : 11.64 121.53 A few years back... Hudson Valley 5.0 #00 Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club 924EM http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.snkypete.com 1993 Taurus SHO:LPM, C&L : 1998 SeaDoo XPLimited - Coffman equipped! 2000 F-350 CrewCab Powerstroke Lariat LE Dually -----Original Message----- From: 97up-list-bounce ford-trucks.com [mailto:97up-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of johny Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 12:41 PM To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com Subject: [97up-list] Re: F150 vs (C or K 1500) > My 99 F350 diesel, 4X4, crew cab, 6-speed rides very comfortable, gets 12 - 13 mpg towing 7,500 to 8,500 LBS and I have gotten a best of 23mpg empty, yes 23mpg is correct doing it by manually dividing the number of miles driven by the gallons to fill the tank up into the filler neck. Best milage was driving two lane road at or under 55 mph. > Dan > Wisconsin Back in Jan 99, I got 20+ driving from Las Vegas Nv to Ridgemont Calif, going through Death Valley Ca. (via Pahrump NV/badwater). For a 7000+ lbs 4x4 that's shaped like a big brick, that's outstanding. (I also had under 10K miles on the truck too!) But as noted, slower speeds (and staying off the boost) are key. I too was mostly under 55mph. I also do the paper/pencil calculation. 99 F350 SC 4x4 PSD auto short bed 265/75/16 tires. Diesels at idle get something like a whopping 40:1 air/fuel ratio. Gas engines do something like 20:1 and go down from there. ========================================================== To unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Pete Calabrese" Subject: Aux Tank? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 13:03:35 -0400 On the fuel subject... Anyone have any experience with the Aux Tank? http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.auxtank.com I was looking for a setup that plumbs into the stock tank (ie no switch tank, no second gauge - just having the gauge pegged on full until the aux tank is empty and then the stock tank starts to empty and basically just fill from the aux tank instead of the stock filler neck). I know of someone who has a setup like this, but he's always racing and I haven't seen him in a few months. Thanks.... Pete ___________________________________________________________________ 1991 Mustang LX Coupe 347 : 12.14 112 No NOS yet! : 3240w/driver 493RWHP/582RWTQ Griggs, Wilwood, NOS : 11.64 121.53 A few years back... Hudson Valley 5.0 #00 Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club 924EM http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.snkypete.com 1993 Taurus SHO:LPM, C&L : 1998 SeaDoo XPLimited - Coffman equipped! 2000 F-350 CrewCab Powerstroke Lariat LE Dually ------------------------------ From: Stan Wright Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 13:16:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Aux Tank? I came up with this type of setup by accident. I have an auxiliary tank that replaces the spare tire. The gas is pumped via a Holley fuel pump into the filler neck vent hose. In order to make room for a second battery I removed the fuel vapor collection cannister, and capped the vapor line. Unbeknownst to me, this was the line that let the fuel tank breathe. So as the fuel left the stock tank, fuel was drawn from the auxilary tank to replace it. I didn't have a fuel guage on the auxiliary tank at the time, so it took awhile to figure out how come my stock fuel tank showed full for so long. I thought there was a problem with the fuel guage. I eventually moved the second battery to my bed-mounted tool box, and reinstalled the vapor cannister. A friend of mine has a bed-mounted tank. He had to install a valve because the tank would gravity fill into the stock tank, and seep out around the tank fill. Pete Calabrese wrote: > On the fuel subject... > > Anyone have any experience with the Aux Tank? http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.auxtank.com I was > looking for a setup that plumbs into the stock tank (ie no switch tank, no > second gauge - just having the gauge pegged on full until the aux tank is > empty and then the stock tank starts to empty and basically just fill from > the aux tank instead of the stock filler neck). > > I know of someone who has a setup like this, but he's always racing and I > haven't seen him in a few months. > > Thanks.... > > Pete > > ___________________________________________________________________ > 1991 Mustang LX Coupe 347 : 12.14 112 No NOS yet! : 3240w/driver > 493RWHP/582RWTQ Griggs, Wilwood, NOS : 11.64 121.53 A few years back... > Hudson Valley 5.0 #00 Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club 924EM > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.snkypete.com > 1993 Taurus SHO:LPM, C&L : 1998 SeaDoo XPLimited - Coffman equipped! > 2000 F-350 CrewCab Powerstroke Lariat LE Dually > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe: > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Pete Calabrese" Subject: Re: Aux Tank? Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 14:16:15 -0400 Perhaps the stock tank fill would have to be removed then.... I keep trying to get more info from their web site, but I can only get to the main page. All other pages time out. Thanks for the info... ___________________________________________________________________ 1991 Mustang LX Coupe 347 : 12.14 112 No NOS yet! : 3240w/driver 493RWHP/582RWTQ Griggs, Wilwood, NOS : 11.64 121.53 A few years back... Hudson Valley 5.0 #00 Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club 924EM http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.snkypete.com 1993 Taurus SHO:LPM, C&L : 1998 SeaDoo XPLimited - Coffman equipped! 2000 F-350 CrewCab Powerstroke Lariat LE Dually -----Original Message----- From: 97up-list-bounce ford-trucks.com [mailto:97up-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Stan Wright Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 2:16 PM To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com Subject: [97up-list] Re: Aux Tank? I came up with this type of setup by accident. I have an auxiliary tank that replaces the spare tire. The gas is pumped via a Holley fuel pump into the filler neck vent hose. In order to make room for a second battery I removed the fuel vapor collection cannister, and capped the vapor line. Unbeknownst to me, this was the line that let the fuel tank breathe. So as the fuel left the stock tank, fuel was drawn from the auxilary tank to replace it. I didn't have a fuel guage on the auxiliary tank at the time, so it took awhile to figure out how come my stock fuel tank showed full for so long. I thought there was a problem with the fuel guage. I eventually moved the second battery to my bed-mounted tool box, and reinstalled the vapor cannister. A friend of mine has a bed-mounted tank. He had to install a valve because the tank would gravity fill into the stock tank, and seep out around the tank fill. Pete Calabrese wrote: > On the fuel subject... > > Anyone have any experience with the Aux Tank? http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.auxtank.com I was > looking for a setup that plumbs into the stock tank (ie no switch tank, no > second gauge - just having the gauge pegged on full until the aux tank is > empty and then the stock tank starts to empty and basically just fill from > the aux tank instead of the stock filler neck). > > I know of someone who has a setup like this, but he's always racing and I > haven't seen him in a few months. > > Thanks.... > > Pete > > ___________________________________________________________________ > 1991 Mustang LX Coupe 347 : 12.14 112 No NOS yet! : 3240w/driver > 493RWHP/582RWTQ Griggs, Wilwood, NOS : 11.64 121.53 A few years back... > Hudson Valley 5.0 #00 Poughkeepsie Sports Car Club 924EM > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.snkypete.com > 1993 Taurus SHO:LPM, C&L : 1998 SeaDoo XPLimited - Coffman equipped! > 2000 F-350 CrewCab Powerstroke Lariat LE Dually > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe: > http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ========================================================== To unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: CERESJohnG aol.com Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 15:04:18 EDT Subject: Re: ROAD TRIP Nothing more than the usual stuff. All of the fluids where they ought to be and the tire pressures where they should be. If you will go over the oil change period on the road, why not do that now? Check your tires for wear, it's one thing to get a flat near home, quite another to get one away from familier territory !000k is about 660 mi, generally the truck will handle it better than you will. John G. ------------------------------ From: "Mark Browning" Subject: Oil Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 15:08:03 EDT What is the best oil for my truck for long distance driving and towing 2400 pound boat... and for everyday stuff too??? how much am I looking to spend and what brand? Thanks Mark 99 F150 XLT 4.2L 2wd ________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Zinski, Steve" Subject: Re: Oil Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 15:29:58 -0400 The Ford owner's manual recommends 5W-30. I personally run Valvoline 5W-30 year 'round. If you live in extremely cold climates, you might want to consider using a quality synthetic which has a lower pour-point. Otherwise, stick with a quality dino oil and change it every 3-4000 miles. --Steve -----Original Message----- From: Mark Browning [mailto:mab076 hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 3:08 PM To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com Subject: [97up-list] Oil What is the best oil for my truck for long distance driving and towing 2400 pound boat... and for everyday stuff too??? how much am I looking to spend and what brand? Thanks Mark 99 F150 XLT 4.2L 2wd ________________________________________________________________________ ========================================================== To unsubscribe: http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Steve J. Hodson" Subject: Re: Clutch Hanging Up Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 16:05:34 -0400 moisture or air in the hydraulic line will cause this. See if their is a resivor and bleader screw on the system. -----Original Message----- From: DanBrotzman To: '97up-list ford-trucks.com' <97up-list ford-trucks.com> Date: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 10:03 AM Subject: [97up-list] Clutch Hanging Up >Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 20:01:12 -0500 >From: Bob Wickline >Subject: Problem with SuperDuty Clutch > >I have close to 48K miles on my '99 F350/CC/SRW/6-speed/PSD and I'm having >something weird happening to the clutch. When the truck is cold the clutch >seems to work fine and has plenty of travel. But when I drive for a long >distance (especially towing) the clutch looses travel and sometimes >preventing me from placing it in gear at stops (have to kill engine to put >in gear). > >Anyone seen or heard of this behavior? And better yet what to do about >it? I'm about due for routine maintenance and will probably have it looked >at then but I would like to know what's happening beforehand. The clutch >is part of the powertrain right? (warranty purposes) > >Thanks, >Bob W. > >Bob, I had this same problem with my 1986 F350 Diesel CC 4X4 4-speed. The problem was the throw out bearing not sliding smoothly over the input shaft of the transmission. About once a year I had to take the rubber boot off the clutch fork openning, disengage the clutch fork from the pivot ball, then reach up inside and apply a light coating of "Never-Seize" to the transmission input shaft. This would work good for about a year, then I would have to do it again. BTW I took it to a dealer the first time and they just sprayed some silicon on the input shaft, lasted about 3 months. If this is infact your problem, plan on an hour or so because there is not much space to work in. I now have a 99.5 F350 PSD CC 4X4 6-speed with 7,000 miles and notice the sycronizer for 4th gear allows a very slight miss-match when shifting, you can feel it slip about one tooth before going into gear. I'm sure when I take the truck in for the fuel tank recall the dealer will test drive it and tell me n! >othing is wrong ... until it is out of warranty then they will suddenly discover there is in fact a problem. Also my transfer case took a dump at 4,200 miles with out any warning, and my driving is all highway, no off road. > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe: >http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >Please remove this footer when replying. > ------------------------------ From: "Craig, Dennis" Subject: Re: V-10 Performance Tips Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 14:29:05 -0700 I would like to see one of the truck magazines do a detailed V10 review. I have one for the 460 and it is great. Headers/Exhaust was an extreme boost and they used high flow catalytic converters and larger pipe. It doesn't do you much good to improve the flow using stock catalytic converters. They tested several and listed the results. Also another item was the pressure settings of the injectors, slight variations from the factory really screwed the gas flow up and hence resulted in loss of power. They of course tweaked the computer and dropped the temperature of the thermostat which increase the horse power slightly. The article closed by showing the $$ per HP increase and $$ per MPG saved. I am sure much of the theory would apply to the V10 but it would be nice to see the same test. For any interested it was the August or September 1999 issue of 4 wheeler, and the issue has a White 90' 4x4 Dually on the cover. I saved it so if you want more information just send me a note or post here. dennis -----Original Message----- From: boltnut mindspring.com [mailto:boltnut mindspring.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 2:17 PM To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com Subject: [97up-list] Re: V-10 Performance Tips I have looked at the exhaust kit from banks and thought it was a little pricy myself untill I looked further. Things to consider... Banks quality, Stainless Steel, Tuned headers, 5/8 or something close on the header flanges, mandrel bent tubing, it also included a K&N, and new inlet air pipe that was also mandrel bent. Complete system. I don't think you could get all this for less somewhere else. I don't have this kit but I am considering it. At 04:31 PM 6/27/00 -0400, you wrote: >Banks makes a complete exhaust system including headers that adds quite a >lot of HP and torque according to their dyno traces, most of it at low rpm >as well which is more effective. Pretty pricey though, I think the kits run >~ $1400. I have thought about seeing if I could just buy the headers and >get a local shop to build a complete dual exhaust. This would get >complicated though because you would have to retrofit with 2 catalytic >converters and 2 mufflers. It might be better just to go with a single >exhaust after the y pipe like Banks does it. >-----Original Message----- >From: JDavis1277 aol.com >To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com <97up-list ford-trucks.com> >Date: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 8:49 AM >Subject: [97up-list] Re: V-10 Performance Tips > > >>IMO, bigger, better exhaust pipes & mufflers on the V-10 sounds neat but >>gives so little performance payback for the dollar of cost as to be >virtually >>useless. In order of effectiveness the following do the most good, IMO: >> >>1. Supercharger. >> >>2. Headers. >> >>3. Performance chip. >> >>Clearly #1 is the most costly and if you're going to do that you need to do >>#2 and #3 anyway. >> >>The best payback in terms of HP per dollar is probably with headers >followed >>by the chip. I would do both, and probably will when I get my V-10. I can >>always to the supercharger a couple of years down the road if I really want >>to. >> >>Now, who makes the V-10 headers and what's the pain level ($)? >> >>Butch >><><><><> Win $50,000, Sony TV's and Sony Radios! <><><><> >>Simply sign up for RacingOne.com's free e-mail newsletter. >>Our newsletter provides you with breaking auto-racing news. >>For each person who signs up for the free newsletter, we will >>make a donation to Speedway Children's Charities. You get the >>inside story on breaking auto-racing news and children get a >>better future. >>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://opt-influence.com/a/racing3/ >>========================================================== >>To unsubscribe: >>http://www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 >>Please remove this footer when replying. >> > ><><><><> Win $50,000, Sony TV's and Sony Radios! <><><><> >Simply sign up for RacingOne.com's free e-mail newsletter. >Our newsletter provides you with breaking auto-racing news. >For each person who signs up for the free newsletter, we will >make a donation to Speedway Children's Charities. You get the >inside story on breaking auto-racing news and children get a >better future. >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://opt-influence.com/a/racing3/ >========================================================== >To unsubscribe:.... 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