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------------------------------------
97up-list Digest Mon, 19 Jun 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 102

In This Issue:
Re: dead truck???
Re: DEAD TRUCK
Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
Re: tire pressure
Re: DEAD TRUCK
Re: Brite box
Ignition Sounder
Re: Brite box
Subject: Re: Buzzer Help
dead truck
Life stages
Re: Wheel question
Re: Wheel question
Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
Re: Buzzer Help
Re: Wheel question
Re: Subject: Re: Buzzer Help
Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
Ignition switch replacement

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Christian B." hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: dead truck???
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 07:16:10 EDT

Your problem could very well be a short in the starter kill or the "brain"
of the alarm is killing the starter for some reason. I would check the
starter relay first. A friend of mine had the same type of problem (a
different truck thought) but it was the starter relay. If it's not the
relay then I would look to the alarm.

Chris
n VA


So i check the fuses there all good
>and the
>then i checked the battary its good, the silenoid and it has power but the
>wire that leads into the starter has no power?? i just bought a new viper
>alarm 21/2 weeks ago could it be the starterkill or the silenoid is
>screwed??? somebody please help me thanks....
>
>Mark
>99 F-150 2WD 4.2l

________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Mark Browning" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DEAD TRUCK
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:35:01 EDT

Well I called my alarm installer and he said that if the starterkill was on
the solenoid would not click theres a "cut-off switch" between the key and
the solenoid... so i guess its the solenoid but is wierd that the solenoid
has power in it and doesn't send power the the starter?? i don't undertand..
could someone explain the process of how the truck first starts up... and
then i might have a vag-idea how it works so i know what i'm talking
about??? thank you

and are fords always this much trouble???

mark
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: George Rigney wsnelson.com>
Subject: Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:40:45 -0500

Dear Keith,

Thank you for replying. You are very knowledgeable about Ford trucks, and I
have learned a lot from your posts over the last two years or so. The
reason I'm so interested in this exhaust question is because my Crown Vic's
performance improved immensely as a result of the pipe shearing off just
before the muffler. When I went to fix that, I found two other holes. I'm
holding it together with patches right now, but a new exhaust system will
eventually be necessary.

Best Regards,
George

1974 Gran Torino Elite 351W
1984 LTD Crown Victoria 302
1999 F250 SD CC V10

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Veren [mailto:Spectrum-EHS worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:37 PM
To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals


My engineering friend tells me you are essentially correct; however, the
rapidly receding exhaust gases in a 4 tube header/manifold set-up "help"
each other race out of the system resulting in a quite low pressure just
beyond the exhaust valve that you want to be able to control with a little
known back pressure to balance the system. By the way, I am a Toxicologist,
I rely on my Professional Engineers for complex answers.

Keith

Anyway, Flowmasters are the ticket.



----- Original Message -----
From: "George Rigney" WSNelson.com>
To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 5:29 PM
Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals


> Dear Keith,
>
> This could only occur if the exhaust manifold were at a lower negative
gauge
> pressure than the cylinder during the brief space of time that both valves
> are open and the piston is receding. The vacuum that the piston pulls
> during this time will almost certainly be much stronger than the exhaust
> manifold vacuum.
>
> I've never designed a discharge line to be more restrictive so that a pump
> will run better. I know that a SIIC engine isn't the same as a pump, and
> I'm not disputing that there may be some advantage to having a certain
> amount of back-pressure in an exhaust line, but I don't accept your
> explanation.
>
> Perhaps the answer has something to do with balancing the restriction in
the
> exhaust system with that of the intake system. Anyone?
>
> Best Regards,
> George
>
> 1974 Gran Torino Elite 351W
> 1984 LTD Crown Victoria 302
> 1999 F250 SD CC V10
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Keith Veren [mailto:Spectrum-EHS worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 3:26 PM
> To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
>
>
> So the next fresh air/fuel charge is not sucked out into the
intra-manifold
> vacuum space left by the fast-leaving just-burned exhaust gases.
>
> Keith
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "George Rigney" WSNelson.com>
> To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 12:51 PM
> Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
>
>
> > Why?
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jmann living.com [mailto:jmann living.com]
> > Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 11:29 AM
> > To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
> >
> >
> > And yes almost all engines require back pressure to
> > operate optimally. Except for maybe certain racing engines.
> >
> >
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> > message.
> >
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
>
> ==========================================================
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> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
>

==========================================================
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message.



------------------------------

From: George Rigney wsnelson.com>
Subject: Re: tire pressure
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 08:51:10 -0500

On my 99 F250 SD, the recommended pressure on the tag is 55 psig on the
front and 75 psig rear, so the van may have come with the correct pressure.
Check the tag.



-----Original Message-----
From: Steve and Caryl Baron [mailto:baronny rcn.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 7:14 AM
To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [97up-list] tire pressure


I would have thought that Ford would deliver a vehicle with approximately
proper tire pressure. I purchased a gauge a couple of months ago, blew it
the first time I tried to read the pressure, and finally, at 3600 miles got
a new 0-100 lb. gauge. I found 80 pounds in the back tires, and 60 in the
front ones.

My Ford service manager, eyeballed the van, which is 7000 pounds -7500
pounds I'll guess, with its camping conversion and diesel, and when asked
said "40 pounds is right". But since he didn't have a clue about the
fuel/water separator (I'm glad he is only the manager) I've my doubts.

I suppose the best question is: at what pressure will get the most even tire
wear? I wonder why Ford delivered the van at such high pressure?

2000 F350 RB Van, 7.3 diesel, 54 gal fuel capacity, 16 gal water, cabinets.
--
Steve Baron New York, NY baronny rcn.com
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message.



------------------------------

From: CERESJohnG aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:05:08 EDT
Subject: Re: DEAD TRUCK

All the solenoid is is an electrically operated switch. It takes the current
from a low amperage switch(ignition=small wires) to and drives a switch
across a high current(starter=big wires) circuit.

Not sure what your Ford has but generally Ford has a seperate solenoid on the
fender well which is easy to get to but over the years this has been a semi
weak point. The good news is compared to GM they were easy to get to and
replace and were cheap.

GM on the other hand mounts theirs on the top of the starter and actually
drives the swich and the statrter pinion engagement with the same unit. When
any of that goes out it is a ! #$%^&*
to get to and repair. Ford has done some of this also, but generally
seperated the switch and drive functions.

John G

------------------------------

From: jmann living.com
Subject: Re: Brite box
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:15:32 -0500

Who carries the Brite Box?

Also, is there not a concern here of over heating the head light assembly?
How does this affect the life span of the bulb?

Joe


-----Original Message-----
From: RICK KANE [mailto:handgun netzero.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 7:12 PM
To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [97up-list] Re: Brite box

The Brite box is the answer to your question, Dennis. They are
available for nearly all vehicles I've been told. There are other units
priced around $20-$30 for other trucks but I couldn't locate one for the
F-250 SD. Other than being pricey ($99) the Brite box is great, and a
snap to install.
_____________________________________________
NetZero - Defenders of the Free World
Click here for FREE Internet Access and Email
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
==========================================================
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message.

------------------------------

From: "Scott Matus" hotmail.com>
Subject: Ignition Sounder
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 07:33:16 PDT

Gary -

Yes, I disconnected the Ignition key sensor, but I kept the other sounding
sensors. I also opened the module that has the sounder and covered the
sounder with RTV solicone to lower the sound level.

I have the schematics for the truck, so the disable was easy. Respond if
you want a copy of the schematic for the ignition circuit.

Scott.
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: RSnovi aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:52:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Brite box

In a message dated 6/19/00 10:14:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jmann living.com writes:

a few places 1 in GA and check dieselpage.com.

I think it may effect life span of bulb with the additional heat, but i have
yet to consult anyone on reliability or longevity.

RS
<<
Who carries the Brite Box?

Also, is there not a concern here of over heating the head light assembly?
How does this affect the life span of the bulb?

Joe

>>

------------------------------

From: "Lloyd Rantanen" mindspring.com>
Subject: Subject: Re: Buzzer Help
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:47:30 -0600


I believe there is a black/pink stripe wire in the bundle under the dash going to the ignition, it's in a bundle of six? wires pull the connector apart and there is a little fitting in the connector that holds all the wires in just disconnect that and release the black/pink wire.
It's been a while since I did it (first thing I did), better instructions can be found at www.ford -diesel. com go into the search area and enter buzzer or chime disconnect.


------------------------------

From: "Mark Browning" hotmail.com>
Subject: dead truck
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:01:26 EDT

Well i called caa and he started the truck and he told me the power wire is
rotted of the starter.. so i brought it to for and he told me it will take
2 hours to fix plus 20 dollars for parts so far he said he might have to
replace the starter.... should i do it???
________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Lewis, Greg (ISD)" metro.nashville.org>
Subject: Life stages
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:12:00 -0500

> The male and female stages of life.



-- Binary/unsupported file stripped by Listar --
-- Type: application/octet-stream
-- File: LIFE_STAGES.TXT.SHS



------------------------------

From: "Christian B." hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel question
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 14:38:56 EDT

I have 285/75/16's on my truck(97 F150 4X4 4.6L), with the stock rims. I
have had no problems, no uneven wear, and no bad handling. I do recommend
the 16X8 rims just because they will fit a little better.

Chris


miles did you get out of the
>set? Any significant impact on handling e.g. steering wheel oscillation,
>need to install a steering damper, balancing problems?
> >well if its a 4x4 I wouldn't really recommend it for 285/75, it does
>create
> >alot more "push in the corners" as i would call it. I am going to switch
>to
> >a 16x8 which is ideal by the BFG chart on the website. In a month or two,
> >probably some of the Eagle Alloys they look almost like XLTs i have now
>but
>a
> >inch will make a world of difference. 275/75/16 would be the most I
>would
> >recommend, since I have 285 right now. I had previously spoke to about
>10
> >different mfg's of wheels and tires (incuding BFG rep) to get their
>separate
> >opinions.
> >
> >I am readying my self to finally put my front lift 2 1/2 kit on! Since
>i
> >have a week off to get aligned and in case anything strange comes up.
>Anyone
> >have any suggestions or torque specs i need to know for leaf springs or
>track
> >bar, let me know.
> > I will be getting RS9000s before the end of month deal goes out. Was
>that
> >deal someone got on the list for 60. all 3+1 free?

> > Jeff and all: It's time to replace the OEM 265-75-16's on my F-350
>(with
> > stock 16x7 rims). I've read from a number of folks that they had no
> > problems running BFG's 285-75's on the stock rims. Did you have
>problems
> > with yours? Why would you not recommend larger than 275's on the OEM
>rims?

________________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 11:39:04 -0700
From: johny netapp.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel question

Ross, are you sure the Eagle Alloys have sufficient weight rating for a SD?
Last time I checked, they weren't. Sufficient for a 150/1500 class vehicle,
but not a SD, which is 6500lbs + depending on the configuration.

Alcoa, Weld, MT, and some versions of American racing had wheels rated
over 3000 lbs each. Translates to higher costs too.

RSnovi aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 6/18/00 4:40:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> hodsonsj mindspring.com writes:
>
> well if its a 4x4 I wouldn't really recommend it for 285/75, it does create
> alot more "push in the corners" as i would call it. I am going to switch to
> a 16x8 which is ideal by the BFG chart on the website. In a month or two,
> probably some of the Eagle Alloys they look almost like XLTs i have now but a
> inch will make a world of difference. 275/75/16 would be the most I would
> recommend, since I have 285 right now. I had previously spoke to about 10
> different mfg's of wheels and tires (incuding BFG rep) to get their separate
> opinions.
>
> I am readying my self to finally put my front lift 2 1/2 kit on! Since i
> have a week off to get aligned and in case anything strange comes up. Anyone
> have any suggestions or torque specs i need to know for leaf springs or track
> bar, let me know.
> I will be getting RS9000s before the end of month deal goes out. Was that
> deal someone got on the list for 60. all 3+1 free?
>
> thanks
> Ross S




------------------------------

From: "Keith Veren" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 16:17:30 -0400

Be careful that you do not equate "louder" with "faster and more powerful"
as many people do. I am sure you are not, but try to get an objective
measurement of the "immensely improved" performance, these measurements will
come in handy later, also. One way is to by a "G" meter which is an
accelerometer you stick on the windshield and can accurately detect
movement, magnitude and change in magnitude (acceleration). The other way
is my old fashioned way of finding a flat interstate with 2 landmarks about
1/4 to 1/3 mile or so apart. Wait for an early non-holiday Sunday morning
when no one is around. If you can see far enough back not to cause any
accidents, stop at the first mark and time your flat-out acceleration to the
second mark (a friend with a stopwatch and cell at the second mark make this
much more accurate, he gives you the command to go while starting the
stopwatch.) If you cannot stop at the first mark, just slow as much as you
can safely (e.g., 20 MPH) and keep it dead centered at that speed as you
come to the first mark. When at the first mark say "go" into you cell phone
and your friend will start the stopwatch, floor it and get your time from
your buddy at the second mark. Remember, exact time is not critical
(accuracy) repeatability is critical (precision). Once you know your
acceleration times, now you can truly determine improvements or detriments
to the engine via mufflers, glasspacks, flowmasters, stock or whatever. Of
course only test on the road if you can do it at a remote location with no
traffic or other cars (yes folks, those roads do exist). Otherwise, find a
track that lets anybody take the family station wagon down for a 1/4 mile
run. I think all you need is a secured fire extinguisher and lap w/shoulder
belts.

Keith




----- Original Message -----
From: "George Rigney" WSNelson.com>
To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 9:40 AM
Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals


> Dear Keith,
>
> Thank you for replying. You are very knowledgeable about Ford trucks, and
I
> have learned a lot from your posts over the last two years or so. The
> reason I'm so interested in this exhaust question is because my Crown
Vic's
> performance improved immensely as a result of the pipe shearing off just
> before the muffler. When I went to fix that, I found two other holes.
I'm
> holding it together with patches right now, but a new exhaust system will
> eventually be necessary.
>
> Best Regards,
> George
>
> 1974 Gran Torino Elite 351W
> 1984 LTD Crown Victoria 302
> 1999 F250 SD CC V10
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Keith Veren [mailto:Spectrum-EHS worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 9:37 PM
> To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
>
>
> My engineering friend tells me you are essentially correct; however, the
> rapidly receding exhaust gases in a 4 tube header/manifold set-up "help"
> each other race out of the system resulting in a quite low pressure just
> beyond the exhaust valve that you want to be able to control with a little
> known back pressure to balance the system. By the way, I am a
Toxicologist,
> I rely on my Professional Engineers for complex answers.
>
> Keith
>
> Anyway, Flowmasters are the ticket.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "George Rigney" WSNelson.com>
> To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 5:29 PM
> Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
>
>
> > Dear Keith,
> >
> > This could only occur if the exhaust manifold were at a lower negative
> gauge
> > pressure than the cylinder during the brief space of time that both
valves
> > are open and the piston is receding. The vacuum that the piston pulls
> > during this time will almost certainly be much stronger than the exhaust
> > manifold vacuum.
> >
> > I've never designed a discharge line to be more restrictive so that a
pump
> > will run better. I know that a SIIC engine isn't the same as a pump,
and
> > I'm not disputing that there may be some advantage to having a certain
> > amount of back-pressure in an exhaust line, but I don't accept your
> > explanation.
> >
> > Perhaps the answer has something to do with balancing the restriction in
> the
> > exhaust system with that of the intake system. Anyone?
> >
> > Best Regards,
> > George
> >
> > 1974 Gran Torino Elite 351W
> > 1984 LTD Crown Victoria 302
> > 1999 F250 SD CC V10
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Keith Veren [mailto:Spectrum-EHS worldnet.att.net]
> > Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 3:26 PM
> > To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
> >
> >
> > So the next fresh air/fuel charge is not sucked out into the
> intra-manifold
> > vacuum space left by the fast-leaving just-burned exhaust gases.
> >
> > Keith
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "George Rigney" WSNelson.com>
> > To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
> > Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 12:51 PM
> > Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
> >
> >
> > > Why?
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: jmann living.com [mailto:jmann living.com]
> > > Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 11:29 AM
> > > To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> > > Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
> > >
> > >
> > > And yes almost all engines require back pressure to
> > > operate optimally. Except for maybe certain racing engines.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ==========================================================
> > > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> > > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> > > message.
> > >
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> > message.
> >
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> > message.
> >
> >
>
> ==========================================================
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> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
>
> ==========================================================
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> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>


------------------------------

From: "Keith Veren" worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Buzzer Help
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 16:29:17 -0400

I wonder if you purchased some of that 2-color play-dough type epoxy that
you kneed together for a while to form one color showing it is ready, shape
if to whateve your are repairing, and it does dry as hard as a rock. Maybe
the buzzer could be completely covered....hmmmmm...

Keith


----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris B." mediaone.net>
To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2000 11:40 AM
Subject: [97up-list] Re: Buzzer Help


> Hi Gary,
> I'm in the same boat. On all of my past F-150's, I've been able to either
> remove the buzzer itself or electrically disable it. These new 2000
trucks
> have made it darn near impossible to even get to the buzzer. It seems to
be
> located above the fuse panel, like you mentioned. I'll be damned If I can
> get to it.
>
> Anyone????? HELP!!!! This thing is driving me crazy. Thanks.
>
> Chris B.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: GARY GADWA ruralnetwork.net>
> To: <97up-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 10:06 PM
> Subject: [97up-list] Buzzer Help
>
>
> > Has anyone successfully tackled and killed the Ignition Key Buzzer.
I
> > can't stand the darn thing so I started searching and found the chime
> > box......But, FORD appears to have made it indestructable. Surely one of
> you
> > ingenius tinkerers can help with this. My ears are still ringing from
> > chasing that Chime Box under errr..... above the Fuse panel.
> >
> > Gary
> > 2000 Superduty F-250 Supercab
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> > the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> > message.
> >
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 97up-list" in the subject of the
> message.
>
>


------------------------------

From: RSnovi aol.com
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 19:42:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Wheel question

In a message dated 6/19/00 2:40:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, johny netapp.com
writes:

Well since they make them in the 2 different 8 bolt patterns i would hope
they did there homework. I saw a set of the 15x8 or 10s on a 2500 dodge v10
long bed and they seem to look, work ok. I am almost positive they are rated
over 3000lb per, I looked at a few different sites gathering information.
Their might also be a difference in the 5-6 lug and 8 lug, i know the center
caps are different, I think their may be a HD and regular. They are still
only 5-10 more. Yes I know I would not mind the M/Ts but their is another
50. per wheel, you simply cannot beat the price for the product and decent
looking for the Eagle Alloys.

If I had money to blow I would go ahead and buy some nice Welds, lol!

RS

<< Subj: [97up-list] Re: Wheel question
Date: 6/19/00 2:40:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: johnynetapp.com (johny)
Sender: 97up-list-bounceford-trucks.com
Reply-to: ford-trucks.com">97up-listford-trucks.c
om

To: 97up-listford-trucks.com

Ross, are you sure the Eagle Alloys have sufficient weight rating for a SD?
Last time I checked, they weren't. Sufficient for a 150/1500 class vehicle,
but not a SD, which is 6500lbs + depending on the configuration.

Alcoa, Weld, MT, and some versions of American racing had wheels rated
over 3000 lbs each. Translates to higher costs too.
>>

------------------------------

From: Thomas Veik megavision.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Buzzer Help
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 20:38:45 -0500

On Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:47:30 -0600, "Lloyd Rantanen"
mindspring.com> wrote:

>
> I believe there is a black/pink stripe wire in the bundle under
> the dash going to the ignition, it's in a bundle of six? wires pull
> the connector apart and there is a little fitting in the connector
> that holds all the wires in just disconnect that and release the
> black/pink wire.
> It's been a while since I did it (first thing I did), better
> instructions can be found at
> www.ford-diesel.com go into the search area and enter
> buzzer or chime disconnect.

My 99 Explorer has this same black/pink wire, but cutting it only
silences the buzzer if the key is in the off position. As soon as I
switch to accessory, it dings again. Apparently they figure that if
the accessories have power, then the key must be in the ignition.

Tom

------------------------------

From: "Runyon, Charlie" FTSCPAC.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 18:04:11 -0700

Thanks, I'll just watch it and see if the metals wear in. I'm hearing it
less each day
Charlie

> -----Original Message-----
> From: George Rigney [SMTP:George.RigneyWSNelson.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 10:31 AM
> To: '97up-listford-trucks.com'
> Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
>
> Dear Charlie,
>
> Joe's right. You should confirm that your AC isn't dripping on hot metal.
> On the other hand, the popping noises from metal that is cooling off or
> heating up are normal. It's called "heat ticking" or something like that.
> I remember my heat transfer professor droning on about it one afternoon,
> something about shifting along grain boundaries. Anyway, the point is
> that
> the popping noises are probably nothing to worry about, but I do remember
> something about an AC dripping onto the exhaust line on this list a year
> back or so. Anybody remember the details?
>
> Regards,
> George
>
> 1974 Gran Torino Elite 351W
> 1984 LTD Crown Victoria 302
> 1999 F250 SD CC V10
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jmannliving.com [mailto:jmannliving.com]
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 2:17 PM
> To: 97up-listford-trucks.com
> Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
>
>
> I have recently experienced sounds from underneath the cab. But what I
> hear
> sounds like water dripping from the AC on to an exhaust pipe. The
> Flowmaster
> is under the bed and does not really make any noise. If the pipe is hot
> enough, dripping water can make a popping sound. When water vaporizes it
> expands 1000 times. If this happens instantaneously when hitting an
> extremely hot surface like an exhaust pipe or cat, it will make a POPing
> sound.
>
> Try to locate, front of back, under the bed or under the cab, the sound
> you
> are hearing.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Runyon, Charlie [mailto:runyoncFTSCPAC.NAVY.MIL]
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 1:56 PM
> To: '97up-listford-trucks.com'
> Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
>
> Do you experience popping sounds from your flow master system? Mine does
> when it's warming up and ever so often after. Then when I park, it makes
> allot of noises.
> Charlie
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jmannliving.com [SMTP:jmannliving.com]
> > Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 6:29 AM
> > To: 97up-listford-trucks.com
> > Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
> >
> > YES, Flowmasters are the way to go.
> >
> > I run a single 70 Series SUV Performance Flowmaster on my 2000 F150 5.4
> > Lariat. It is a three chamber muffler and cruises nice and quietly.
> Little
> > if any cab resonance at cruising speed. But, comes to life when you step
> > on
> > the gas. People will know you're there when you mat it. It has a 5 inch
> > casing that allows for great exhaust flow, yet providing just the right
> > about of back pressure. And yes almost all engines require back pressure
> > to
> > operate optimally. Except for maybe certain racing engines.
> >
> > I believe they make a dual kit for your truck. But you'll have to check.
> > Call their Tech support. They are very helpful and knowledgeable. I run
> a
> > single muffler, but at I said, it's large and flowers well.
> >
> > If you're running anything smaller than a 5.4 I wouldn't go for true
> > duals.
> > And I wouldn't even really worry about it on a 5.4. You can get
> > Flowmasters
> > with a single in and dual outs, like mine. You save a bit and the right
> > muffler will flow just as well as two.
> >
> > www.flowmastermuffler.com
> >
> > Joe
> > Austin, TX.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Keith Veren [mailto:Spectrum-EHSworldnet.att.net]
> > Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 10:35 AM
> > To: 97up-listford-trucks.com
> > Subject: [97up-list] Re: Muffler Question-for true duals
> >
> > Flowmasters.
> >
> > Keith
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Christian B." hotmail.com>
> > To: <97up-listford-trucks.com>; mindspring.com>
> > Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 7:13 AM
> > Subject: [97up-list] Muffler Question-for true duals
> >
> >
> > > Well, I have a series of questions for all you exhaust guru's out
> there.
> > > Yesterday I had "True Duals" put on my 97 f150 with straight pipes.
> > Well,
> > > needless to say, it is much louder than I expected and too loud for me
> > to
> > > drive. I love a nice rumble in my exhaust but straight pipes are just
> > too
> > > loud and have way too much popping. Here is the question: What
> > mufflers
> > > would y'all reccommend me putting on this type of setup? What would
> > give
> > me
> > > the maximum horse power? Do these engines require a certain amount of
> > back
> > > pressure for best performance. I noticed a slight decrease in power
> but
> > > some seems to have come back. Where I could not chirp the tires
> before,
> > I
> > > can now but ever so slightly. Well, hopefully someone can help,
> Steve,
> > JMC,
> > > anyone, I need help.
> > >
> > > TIA,
> > > Chris
> > > n VA
> > >
> ________________________________________________________________________
> > > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.hotmail.com
> > >
> > > ==========================================================
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> > > message.
> > >
> > >
> >
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------------------------------

From: "Erik Marquez" alaska.com>
Subject: Ignition switch replacement
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:25:47 -0800

Does any body have experience in replacement of the ignition switch in a
circa 97 F350, non tilt steering column? Had the key get stuck in the
switch today, got it out, but then the switch would turn with out the key.
Used some silicone in the switch, and the key function started working
again, but would like to get it replaced before it acts up again. So, on my
78 Bronco, it's a 10 sec job... But what about a 1997??? not sure how to get
the switch cylinder out...... Help.

Erik Marquez
bronco78alaska.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.home.gci.net/~bronco78
Home of the BB decal


------------------------------

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