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Subject: 97up-list-digest V2 #169
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97up-list-digest Thursday, June 24 1999 Volume 02 : Number 169



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1997 and Newer Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 97up - White Rim Canyon 4x4 Trail; Canyonlands, Utah
RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil
FTE 97up - Synth Oil
RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil
Re: [RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil]
FTE 97up - Will new shocks help? -Reply
Re: FTE 97up - dog tracking SD, etc.
FTE 97up - 460 vs V10
Re: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil
Re: [RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil]
Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil
RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil
FTE 97up - oil question
FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-
Re: FTE 97up - oil question
Re: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-
FTE 97up - FTE 97 up: Exhaust TSB
RE: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-
Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin
Re: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-
Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin
FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-
Re: FTE 97up - oil question, brake fluids, etc.
RE: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-
RE: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-
Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin
Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin
Re: FTE 97up - oil question
RE: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin
Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 07:02:06 -0400
From: "Larry Hackler"
Subject: FTE 97up - White Rim Canyon 4x4 Trail; Canyonlands, Utah

"The entrance to the 4x4 adventure started just a few hundred feet from the
fee station into Canyonlands National Park, Island in the Sky section. Prior
to beginning our trip down into the canyon we viewed the road from an
overlook close to the Neckspring Trailhead. From our view it looked as
though we were in for a dozen or so switchbacks followed by a long dirt road
that looked like it went deep into the center of the canyon".

That is the way the story of Julie and Dave's latest 4x4 adventure starts.
Read how the novice 4x4 kids get themselves in a little trouble and how they
work their way out of it. If your interested go to
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mindspring.com/~hacklerl/SpecialP3.html and read about what
happens.

Larry

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 09:15:01 -0400
From: "D'Amelio, Stephen M."
Subject: RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil

> I keep hearing about "don't use Mobil-1 or other synthetics" before 1,500
> miles or 500 miles or until break-in period is over, etc. I have yet to
> read or hear any vehicle manufacturer, oil company, or anyone deemed an
> authority about this issue. Heck, Corvettes and Porches even come from
> the
> factory filled with Mobil-1!
>
> Keith
>
>
>
>
>
Keith,

Have you ever built (rebuilt) an engine? Read any cam manufacturers sheet on
break-in.
Synthetics are a no-no.

Steve
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 06:34:14 PDT
From: Scott Matus
Subject: FTE 97up - Synth Oil

Don;t pay $88 for Mobil Delvac, You can get a case of Amsoil for about $60.
I know I just changed the oil on my F350 last night (2555 mi). I was
surprised to find that it took 15 Quarts. Anyway I have used synthetic from
day 1 on my 86 VW Jetta, and 240,000 mi later it still runs as strong as
new.

As for my PSD this is the plan for oil changes/break-in.
At 400 miles I replaced the filter filled with 100% synthetic. Ran the
combo factory oil and 2 qts synthetic until the 2555 mark, At this time I
switched to 100% synthetic, and will do so until I die. THis should be the
break-in compromise that the factory would like.

I plan to change filters at 6-8000 miles and oil at 12-16,000 mi. THe
addition of the 2 qts at filter change will replentish some of the benefits
of synthetic. I cna talk at lenght about this topic dear to my heart, MY
TRUCK. I also installed a pre/post-lube pump on the PSD.

THanks for listening,

Scott.

- --------- Original Message ----------

Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 14:54:41 -0500
From: "David Moore [Dmoore Dmoore.com]"
Subject: RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil

Here is the web page for Mobil Delvac 1:

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mobil.com/cgi-bin/bld_frameset.cgi?CONTENT=/business/cvl/onhighwa
y/product_services/delvac1/d_testimonials2.html

I found a distributor in Houston that sells it for 88$ a case (4 gallons).

david


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 09:48:33 -0400
From: "D'Amelio, Stephen M."
Subject: RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil

> ----------
> From: eh60ip mail.apcnet.com[SMTP:eh60ip mail.apcnet.com]
>
> Steve,
>
> Did you break-in the engine with a conventional oil (recommended) and
> follow the break-in IAW the owners manual? Or did you start out with a
> synthetic (not recommended)? There are several opinions on this
> issue....some saying to start out with a conventional oil and change it
> to a synthetic at 500 miles (what I did on the Bronco II), and others
> who claim that it's broke in at the factory (yea right!).
>
I always start out with conventional oil. Both the cam manufacturers (Crane
and Comp) and
the ring manufacturers (I forget who I used to use, they where molly coated
usually) stated
NOT to use synthetic for a period of break-in. The rings supposedly would
not seat correctly.

I don't know if todays metals are immune to this now. They certainly have
come a long way
in this area. I am going back 8-15 years. I suspect that todays tolerances
are tighter also.

Don't get me wrong, I think synthetics are great! I just believe that in
most automotive
applications, there is little or no benefit to synthetics if you change your
oil often. I
have torn down engines under both circumstances. Mobil 1 will produce the
cleanest
looking engine you have ever seen after thousands of miles. No sludge
whatsoever.
Changing your oil every 3000 miles with conventional oil will produce almost
the exact same thing in my experiences.

The thing to avoid in my book is polymers. These are used to "stretch" the
viscosity
ratings of conventional oils, they are also the first thing to break down.
Never
use a 10W-40 oil, lots of polymers. This is why straight 30 weight was
always the
best choice for hard working engines. The obvious down side was the
thickness
of the oil at cold start.

Just hate to see people spending money if they don't need to. Your time and
money
may be better spent changing tranny fluids, brake fluids, rear end and
transfer case
lube. These are the things most people neglect.

But this is just my opinion, I could be wrong...

Steve
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------------------------------

Date: 23 Jun 99 09:36:33 CDT
From: Ford Man
Subject: Re: [RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil]

I'm back
"D'Amelio, Stephen M." wrote:

> ----------
> From: eh60ip mail.apcnet.com[SMTP:eh60ip mail.apcnet.com]
> =

> Steve,
> =

> Did you break-in the engine with a conventional oil (recommended) and
> follow the break-in IAW the owners manual? Or did you start out with a=

> synthetic (not recommended)? There are several opinions on this
> issue....some saying to start out with a conventional oil and change it=

> to a synthetic at 500 miles (what I did on the Bronco II), and others
> who claim that it's broke in at the factory (yea right!). =

> =

I always start out with conventional oil. Both the cam manufacturers (Cra=
ne
and Comp) and
the ring manufacturers (I forget who I used to use, they where molly coat=
ed
usually) stated
NOT to use synthetic for a period of break-in. The rings supposedly would=

not seat correctly.

I don't know if todays metals are immune to this now. They certainly have=

come a long way
in this area. I am going back 8-15 years. I suspect that todays tolerance=
s
are tighter also.

Don't get me wrong, I think synthetics are great! I just believe that in
most automotive
applications, there is little or no benefit to synthetics if you change y=
our
oil often. I
have torn down engines under both circumstances. Mobil 1 will produce the=

cleanest
looking engine you have ever seen after thousands of miles. No sludge
whatsoever.
Changing your oil every 3000 miles with conventional oil will produce alm=
ost
the exact same thing in my experiences.

The thing to avoid in my book is polymers. These are used to "stretch" th=
e
viscosity
ratings of conventional oils, they are also the first thing to break down=
=2E
Never
use a 10W-40 oil, lots of polymers. This is why straight 30 weight was
always the
best choice for hard working engines. The obvious down side was the
thickness
of the oil at cold start. =


Just hate to see people spending money if they don't need to. Your time a=
nd
money
may be better spent changing tranny fluids, brake fluids, rear end and
transfer case
lube. These are the things most people neglect.

But this is just my opinion, I could be wrong...

Steve
=3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.h=
tml


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 10:40:26 -0400
From: GEORGE CROLL
Subject: FTE 97up - Will new shocks help? -Reply

I believe Bilsten has been making shocks a LOT longer than Edelbrock. Shocks are also their bread and butter
product. Edelbrock is a miniforld/carb/cam company getting into the shock business just lately. I do like Edelbrock
products a lot, I am just am not sure of thier in house expertise on the subject of shock absorbers.
George Croll
EPA-OAR-ARD
(202)564-0162
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 09:43:01 -0600
From: Alan Bowes
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - dog tracking SD, etc.

Anthony,

It's normal for the truck to pull a slight bit to the right if the road is
crowned to the right, and to the left if the road is crowned to the left. You
will have to put a little steering pressure in the opposite direction to road
slant. If there were no tendencies along this line, you would not be getting any
"feedback" from the road surface, which, in my opinion, is generally not a good
thing. I think that it's nice to feel the road a bit, since it provides extra
tactile input that lets you know how the vehicle is reacting to the road and
what you need to do to control the vehicle.

If it's pulling equally to the left or right with an equal amount of left or
right road slant, that's a good sign.

However, if you think it's pulling TOO hard, you might want to check the caster.
The more positive caster, the less the tendency to turn in the direction of road
slant. Adding postive caster adds stability, improves the "auto return" of the
wheel to a straight-ahead position, but increases steering effort somewhat and
reduces feedback.

Camber, of course, also affects the way it wants to pull, although camber is a
"wearing" parameter, while caster isn't. There isn't space here for a complete
discussion of wheel alignment parameters and geometry, but in general, with
stock (or close to stock) wheel/tire sizes, and a steering/suspension system in
good condition, you are usually best off setting the alignment to exact factory
values.

Do you happen to have the factory alignment specs for your truck? And did you
get a printout of the alignment settings? That would tell us a lot.

As I mentioned, on most asphalt roads, the tracks that get worn/impressed into
the lanes give each lane a wavy cross-section, adding a set of "mini-crowns"
that can often be steeper than the road crown itself, and it could be in either
direction, depending on where you drive in the lane and the track width of your
vehicle relative to the distance between the tracks in the road. For this
reason, along with the fact that either side of a road could be crowned in
either direction, I prefer a neutral setup (same caster and camber on both
sides). I think you'll find that the manufacturer will also (typically)
recommend the same settings for both sides.

Alan

Anthony Trantham wrote:

> ... If I drive in the middle of the road it drives fine steering
> wheel straight and does not pull either to the left or the right, but if I
> drive in the left lane it pulls to the left, and the steering wheel is
> offset to the right a little. Is this what you are talking about as far as
> crowning of the roads. I know you mentioned front end shops putting a
> little "English" to help correct this and that you did not recommend that.
> So is my truck aligned properly? If not then what should I have the shop
> look into doing? Thanks in advance,
> Anthony
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 08:40:38 -0700
From: STEPHEN_WITTE hp-sandiego-om2.om.hp.com
Subject: FTE 97up - 460 vs V10


This message is particularly for Nathan at Union Auto.

In the last digest you posted a note saying that V10's "walk all over
the 460". I was just wondering if you have any curves of torque vs
rpm available.

I bought a new '97 F350 14 months ago and I do find the 460 in it
quite strong. However, I was never able to even determine the
redline, so I arbitrarily decided to never go over 4000 rpm with it.

Just knowing the peak torque and corresponding rpm and peak horsepower
and corresponding rpm would help me out to understand this motor.

By the way, this truck certainly feels solid as anything I've ever
owned.

Thank you...


- Stephen Witte F350 4x4 CC SRW 5sp 3.55

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 11:45:11 -0400
From: "Keith Veren"
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil

Thank you! Now this is a start. Could you outline what the CAM sheet says
will happen if you do use synthetics for break-in?
Keith

- -----Original Message-----
From: D'Amelio, Stephen M.
To: '97up-list ford-trucks.com'
Date: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 9:17 AM
Subject: RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil


>
>> I keep hearing about "don't use Mobil-1 or other synthetics" before 1,500
>> miles or 500 miles or until break-in period is over, etc. I have yet to
>> read or hear any vehicle manufacturer, oil company, or anyone deemed an
>> authority about this issue. Heck, Corvettes and Porches even come from
>> the
>> factory filled with Mobil-1!
>>
>> Keith
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>Keith,
>
>Have you ever built (rebuilt) an engine? Read any cam manufacturers sheet
on
>break-in.
>Synthetics are a no-no.
>
>Steve
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 18:10:46 +0200
From: eh60ip mail.apcnet.com (Don Francis)
Subject: Re: [RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil]

Steve,

I agree that folks neglect to change their other fluids, and maybe going
to synthetics without extending your change interval is a waste of
money. However, if you ride them hard, have a turbocharger, or want to
get a million miles out of them, synthetics are basically the only way
to go.

I know I'm somewhat the statistical minority, but I changed all of my
fluids (except the clutch & brake fluid) to a synthetic variant designed
for the application, and I've had major success with keeping things
intact. I've successfully hauled a 1968 Mustang behind my Bronco II all
over the country (maybe you've seen that fool!) and I'm convinced that I
would have had major troubles with the entire drivetrain had it not been
for the synthetic lubricants I had in use.

So, if you are doing something as foolish as I used to do (haul a
Mustang behind a Bronco II with a 2.9 litre V6) and you can't afford to
get a real truck, I'd suggest you go with the synthetics! I'm living
proof that they work!

I can now afford the F 350, so I'm gonna relieve my stress and get one!
Those tense moments when the Mustang started swaying..... I'm done with
that silliness - need a long wheelbase!

Two cents are cheap, but I might have a 1909 VDB penny in there!

Don

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 18:19:27 +0200
From: eh60ip mail.apcnet.com (Don Francis)
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil

Scott!

Just the man I need to talk to. Thanks for the post on the break-in.
I'll follow your advice and to the same thing.

Now tell me about the pre luber/ post luber you installed! I'm going to
do that too. Logic tells me that if I want my turbo to last as long as
the engine, that device will make that a done deal.

I also noticed that you must deal with SCSI's. Maybe we should talk
about that one offline - I'm looking for a used SCSI 3 fast Wide.......

Don

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 13:48:36 -0400
From: "D'Amelio, Stephen M."
Subject: RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil

I don't have my spec/install sheets from any
cams I have installed (at least, not handy) but
from Crane Cams web site...

"Crane Cams does not recommend the use of
synthetic oils during the initial break-in period
for a new camshaft. Use a good quality grade of
naturally formulated motor oil during this period."

see http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cranecams.com/camvtfaq.htm


Steve D'Amelio
Systems Administrator
CVS/Pharmacy
1 CVS Drive
Woonsocket, RI 02895
401-765-1500 x3351 FAX 401-762-4607
mailto:smdamelio cvs.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cvs.com

> ----------
> From: Keith Veren[SMTP:Spectrum-EHS worldnet.att.net]
> Reply To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 11:45 AM
> To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil
>
> Thank you! Now this is a start. Could you outline what the CAM sheet
> says
> will happen if you do use synthetics for break-in?
> Keith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: D'Amelio, Stephen M.
> To: '97up-list ford-trucks.com'
> Date: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 9:17 AM
> Subject: RE: FTE 97up - Synthetic Oil
>
>
>
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Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 13:46:16 EDT
From: Ccdolf aol.com
Subject: FTE 97up - oil question

I have a 98 f-150 4.2L v-6 5 spd 3.55 rear axle, i was reading about all
the opinions and facts that all you guys wrote about the oil types to use.
my truck has 20, 300 miles on it, it's used mainly to commute back and forth
to work, sometimes used for hauling stuff. I'm about to buy a boat this
weekend, it weighs around 1500# trailer and all. i currently use 5w-30 as
recommended in my owmners manual and on the labels under the hood. the
question i have is should i stick with my current oil brand as recommended or
should i switch to mobil-1 which i hear alot of good things about.
i'm sure this question is probably a whatever i prefer to run in my
vehicle question, but i'm just wanting to know the advice and wisdom of more
experienced people.
i change my oil around every 3,000 mi- if not sometimes sooner.


thanks for any input.

Bill
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Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 10:22:24 -0500
From: Perry Klein
Subject: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-

Not to dog on Crane in particular but some cigaret companies
used asbestos as cigaret filter material.
NASA used O rings in their boosters that were brittle at low temps .
Point is companies " people " are not always right and do make mistakes.
It is possible that they have done no testing and simply make the statement
below because
they don't know the effect synthetics will have. It is a safe stamen by
keeping the consumer using what they know and are comfortable with.
Shoot them an e-mail and ask them why if you are concerned.
I have the opinion ( and it may be wrong ) that you would not hurt a thing
by using synthetic oil
during break in. I've only owned two new vehicles and changed both over to
synth days to a week after I took possession of them. It has not caused
any noticeable detrimental effect. None of my engines have ever consumed
oil in between oil changes with the exception of an old 84 T-bird that was
feed what ever oil was cheapest. I changed the cam and lifters on that car
at 75 k, both were shot. Piston compression was low on all 6 cylinders.


>I don't have my spec/install sheets from any
>cams I have installed (at least, not handy) but
>from Crane Cams web site...
>
>"Crane Cams does not recommend the use of
>synthetic oils during the initial break-in period
>for a new camshaft. Use a good quality grade of
>naturally formulated motor oil during this period."
>
>see http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cranecams.com/camvtfaq.htm
>

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Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 21:07:02 +0200
From: eh60ip mail.apcnet.com (Don Francis)
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - oil question

Bill,

I'm no oil salesman, but I'm here to tell you that if I were you, and I
had full intention to keep that truck of yours for over 100,000 miles,
I'd convert everything to synthetic. I'd put Mobil 1 in the engine,
Summit RedLine in the transmission, transfer case (if it uses an ATF
fluid) and power steering unit, either Richmond MTL or Mobil 1 MTL in
the differential(s), and I'd upgrade my brake fluid to DOT 4.

Like I mentioned in an earlier message, my little Bronco II has 137,000
miles on it and it's as sound as it was when I bought it! Granted the
original driveshaft design was flawed and I went through four
driveshafts (under warranty) before taking the "POS" dual constant
velocity and solid center shaft setup out and designing and building a
"conventional" shaft with "U" (universal) joints for it and solving that
problem permanently. However that is the only modification I've had to
make to the vehicle to date! Had it not been for the synthetic
lubricants I was using, I'm more than sure my engine would have failed
long ago, the Mazda 5 speed manual transmission would have bought the
farm at 60,000 miles (like so many of them did) and my transfer case and
rear differential would have needed to be replaced long before reaching
100,000 miles. As it stands today, I'd be more than willing to donate
my Bronco II to engineering researchers to prove that synthetics are
absolutely the way to go!

So, do your truck a favor and convert your fluids to synthetics! I can
guarantee you'll get better gas mileage, and the truck will last longer
than you are willing to keep it!

Don

PS I just "converted" my girlfriends 93 Toyota extended cab to Mobil 1
and she reports 4 MPG's better gas mileage than two months ago.

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Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 14:09:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Douglas R. Floyd"
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-



I think its a rule of thumb. I heard that you use natural oil for break-in
is so aid in having things seat or wear in correctly. I used regular oil
for 6,000 miles, then am using synthetic after that.

- --
Douglas R. Floyd |
| Quote coming soon.
Disclaimer: |
I speak for myself, not my employer.
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------------------------------

Date: 23 Jun 99 14:10:05 CDT
From: Ford Man
Subject: FTE 97up - FTE 97 up: Exhaust TSB

This has probably been posted before, but it bears repeating. If you have=
a
'97 F150 or F250 LD and would like the exhaust routed behind the rear whe=
el,
it is covered under TSB 97-26-13. Some dealers are trying to buffalo owne=
rs to
try and avoid paying for this modification. Give them this TSB number if =
you
have any trouble.

____________________________________________________________________
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Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 16:03:21 -0400
From: "D'Amelio, Stephen M."
Subject: RE: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-

> From: Perry Klein[SMTP:Klein prudhoe-bay.dowell.slb.com]
> Reply To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
>
> I've only owned two new vehicles and changed both over to
> synth days to a week after I took possession of them. It has not caused
> any noticeable detrimental effect.
>
Perry,

A cam is all done it's initial break-in within a half hour
of firing the engine. If it's done right, it lasts forever, if
wrong, the lobes won't last 1000 miles. You're switch
to synthetic at the point you did was well after the
cam break-in.

Steve

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Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 22:09:12 +0200
From: eh60ip mail.apcnet.com (Don Francis)
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin

I need advice folks!

I'm picking up my Y2K F-350 Crew Cab, 4 door, 4x4, DRW, PSD on 1 October
99 and I'm trying to make my plans for a trip from North Carolina to Key
West in the new truck. I'm currently over here in Bosnia, and I look
forward to the vacation (long overdue) but I don't want to screw up the
break-in process of my new truck. Can someone out there who owns a 99
F-350 with the Powerstroke tell me what the owners manual says the
breaking process is? I want to know if there are any speed limit
restrictions for the first couple of hundred miles, and what kind of
maintenance action is required in the first 2000 miles? I'm sure I'll
follow Scott's recommendation and replace the oil filter between 400 and
500 miles and top it off with a synthetic, but what other things do I
need to know about before I get all of these vacation plans set into
stone?

Thanks!

Don

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 15:24:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Douglas R. Floyd"
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-

This is totally OT, but where can I find a FAQ for engine rebuilding for
people who know nada about it?
- --
Douglas R. Floyd |
| Quote coming soon.
Disclaimer: |
I speak for myself, not my employer.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 16:25:11 EDT
From: NavJohn aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin

In a message dated 6/23/99 16:12:20 Eastern Daylight Time,
eh60ip mail.apcnet.com writes:

> Can someone out there who owns a 99
> F-350 with the Powerstroke tell me what the owners manual says the
> breaking process is?
Don't pull a trailer for the first 500 miles and don't drive at a constant
speed (in other words, vary your speed) for the first 1,000 miles.

John Wilson F450 Crew Cab PSD
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 12:24:57 -0500
From: Perry Klein
Subject: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-

With the amount of super special cam assembly lube does the
engine oil make up really have that much to do with it?
Especially in one half hour.

It was also my impression that cams broke in very quickly
on the order of minutes not hours that being the reason for the cam
assembly lube.

and the old stand by " why does the corvette as well as other high
performance vehicles come loaded with synthetic?" Do they break those in
at the factory and then change oil?



>
>A cam is all done it's initial break-in within a half hour
>of firing the engine. If it's done right, it lasts forever, if
>wrong, the lobes won't last 1000 miles. You're switch
>to synthetic at the point you did was well after the
>cam break-in.
>
>Steve
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 14:30:36 -0600
From: Alan Bowes
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - oil question, brake fluids, etc.

I like synthetic lubricants very much and I've been using them successfully
for many years. Later formulations seem to have overcome most of the
drawbacks of earlier brews, and the results have been gratifying. It's hard
to say what brands are best. Some searching on the Internet will turn up
some test results here and there, but always "read between the lines" and
try to find out more about who did the testing and what their relationship
was with the lubricant manufacturer. I've used Amsoil, Mobil 1, Castrol,
etc. and I can't say that I have a particular favorite.

There are a few cautions to observe, however. For example, if you have a
limited-slip differential with internal clutch plates, and you want to use a
synthetic gear lube, make certain you select one that is formulated for
limited-slip differentials. It should say so on the label. Otherwise, you
will lose much of your limited-slip effect as the plates just slide easily
against each other instead of gripping properly.

If you use synthetic lubricant in a standard transmission, make sure it's
formulated for use in a standard transmission, since the wrong fluids may
render the synchronizers ineffective and you'll either have difficult shifts
or hear some funny grinding sounds when you shift. Again, check the label.

Same goes for any other part of the vehicle. Make sure the lube is labeled
as compatible with the type of transmission, differential, etc. that you're
using it in, and make sure that it won't void your warranty. Don't give the
vehicle manufacturer an excuse to avoid paying for legitimate problems with
your truck.

Warning on brake fluids:

Use ONLY a manufacturer-approved brake fluid type in your brakes. Period. If
someone has added the wrong type of fluid (such as putting silicone fluid in
a system that is incompatible with it), you may have to flush and rebuild
the system with all new seals, hoses, etc.
DO NOT put DOT 5 silicone brake fluid in a system that was not designed for
it.
DO NOT mix a silicone-based brake fluid with a glycol-based brake fluid.

Another note on brake fluids. When adding brake fluid, use fluid from a
freshly opened can. This is especially important with glycol-based fluids,
since they will gradually absorb moisture from the atmosphere. For this
reason, I typically only buy small containers of fluid and keep them sealed
until ready for use.

Alan



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 16:42:06 -0400
From: "D'Amelio, Stephen M."
Subject: RE: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-

There used to be two excellent books available
at any speed shops:

1. How to re-build your small block Ford
2. Ford Performance.

I don't know of any web based info.

Steve D'Amelio
Systems Administrator
CVS/Pharmacy
1 CVS Drive
Woonsocket, RI 02895
401-765-1500 x3351 FAX 401-762-4607
mailto:smdamelio cvs.com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cvs.com

> ----------
> From: Douglas R. Floyd[SMTP:dfloyd fnord.com]
> Reply To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 4:24 PM
> To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-
>
> This is totally OT, but where can I find a FAQ for engine rebuilding for
> people who know nada about it?
> --
> Douglas R. Floyd |
> | Quote coming soon.
> Disclaimer: |
> I speak for myself, not my employer.
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 16:48:06 -0400
From: "D'Amelio, Stephen M."
Subject: RE: FTE 97up - - Synthetic Oil-

> With the amount of super special cam assembly lube does the
> engine oil make up really have that much to do with it?
> Especially in one half hour.
>
> It was also my impression that cams broke in very quickly
> on the order of minutes not hours that being the reason for the cam
> assembly lube.
>
> and the old stand by " why does the corvette as well as other high
> performance vehicles come loaded with synthetic?" Do they break those in
> at the factory and then change oil?
>
>
>
I Don't really know to tell you the truth. I would be more concerned with
piston
ring seating initially than anything (with synthetics). But for the price
of a vette perhaps they do fire it up with conventional and
replace it with synthetic. I can't imagine putting synthetic in
a brand new motor simply for the reason that I would
be draining the oil so soon! Synthetic or not, you're gonna
have a lot of metal particle in that oil in the first few
hundred miles.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 23:24:04 +0200
From: eh60ip mail.apcnet.com (Don Francis)
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin

Thanks John!

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 18:56:15 EDT
From: RSnovi aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin

In a message dated 6/23/99 4:12:20 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
eh60ip mail.apcnet.com writes:


put your foot on the gas, thats the break-in. :)

RS

I need advice folks!

I'm picking up my Y2K F-350 Crew Cab, 4 door, 4x4, DRW, PSD on 1 October
99 and I'm trying to make my plans for a trip from North Carolina to Key
West in the new truck. I'm currently over here in Bosnia, and I look
forward to the vacation (long overdue) but I don't want to screw up the
break-in process of my new truck. Can someone out there who owns a 99
F-350 with the Powerstroke tell me what the owners manual says the
breaking process is? I want to know if there are any speed limit
restrictions for the first couple of hundred miles, and what kind of
maintenance action is required in the first 2000 miles? I'm sure I'll
follow Scott's recommendation and replace the oil filter between 400 and
500 miles and top it off with a synthetic, but what other things do I
need to know about before I get all of these vacation plans set into
stone?

Thanks!

Don
>>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 19:41:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: Sandman
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - oil question

If I were to get a new truck, I would use synthetic in it, but since I
have an 89 ranger I will continue to use conventional 10W-40. The 4
cylinder in it has 169K on it now and the engine runs great. Convential
works great as long as you cahnge it regularlly. Mine has been changed
every 3000-45000 miles. It does use about a quart every 1500-3000 miles
though, depending on how hard I drive it. As far as other components go,
I have conventional in my tranny thattttt just used its first clutch after
160K. The rear end went on it at 160K as well, and it still uses
conventional, which I may switch it to synthetic later on.


On Wed, 23 Jun 1999, Don Francis wrote:

> Bill,
>
> I'm no oil salesman, but I'm here to tell you that if I were you, and I
> had full intention to keep that truck of yours for over 100,000 miles,
> I'd convert everything to synthetic. I'd put Mobil 1 in the engine,
> Summit RedLine in the transmission, transfer case (if it uses an ATF
> fluid) and power steering unit, either Richmond MTL or Mobil 1 MTL in
> the differential(s), and I'd upgrade my brake fluid to DOT 4.
>
> Like I mentioned in an earlier message, my little Bronco II has 137,000
> miles on it and it's as sound as it was when I bought it! Granted the
> original driveshaft design was flawed and I went through four
> driveshafts (under warranty) before taking the "POS" dual constant
> velocity and solid center shaft setup out and designing and building a
> "conventional" shaft with "U" (universal) joints for it and solving that
> problem permanently. However that is the only modification I've had to
> make to the vehicle to date! Had it not been for the synthetic
> lubricants I was using, I'm more than sure my engine would have failed
> long ago, the Mazda 5 speed manual transmission would have bought the
> farm at 60,000 miles (like so many of them did) and my transfer case and
> rear differential would have needed to be replaced long before reaching
> 100,000 miles. As it stands today, I'd be more than willing to donate
> my Bronco II to engineering researchers to prove that synthetics are
> absolutely the way to go!
>
> So, do your truck a favor and convert your fluids to synthetics! I can
> guarantee you'll get better gas mileage, and the truck will last longer
> than you are willing to keep it!
>
> Don
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 22:42:32 -0500
From: "David Moore [Dmoore Dmoore.com]"
Subject: RE: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin

Let me see if I understand this... Picking up a 2000 F350 on Oct 1999?
Wouldn't that be a 1999?

Yea.. it says.. Don't tow or drive consistent speeds the first 500 miles.

david

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-97up-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-97up-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Don Francis
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 3:09 PM
To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
Cc: dmoore dmoore.com
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Synth Oil & Breakin


I need advice folks!

I'm picking up my Y2K F-350 Crew Cab, 4 door, 4x4, DRW, PSD on 1 October
99 and I'm trying to make my plans for a trip from North Carolina to Key
West in the new truck. I'm currently over here in Bosnia, and I look
forward to the vacation (long overdue) but I don't want to screw up the
break-in process of my new truck. Can someone out there who owns a 99
F-350 with the Powerstroke tell me what the owners manual says the
breaking process is? I want to know if there are any speed limit
restrictions for the first couple of hundred miles, and what kind of
maintenance action is required in the first 2000 miles? I'm sure I'll....


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