97up-list-digest Monday, January 11 1999 Volume 02 : Number 006



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1997 and Newer Trucks and Vans
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In this issue:

FTE 97up - RE: 97up - SD, DRW brakes/Stopping on Snow
FTE 97up - DRL Comments Continued
Re: FTE 97up - Disable Door Chime?
Re: FTE 97up - Stopped Rotating Wheels/Tires
FTE 97up - Re: Tire Rotation
FTE 97up - e4od vs. 4r70w
FTE 97up - Lowering
Re: FTE 97up - Lowering
FTE 97up - ADMIN: TruckTough.com
Re: FTE 97up - Stopped Rotating Wheels/Tires
Re: FTE 97up - Re: Tire Rotation
FTE 97up - re: decreasing mileage
FTE 97up - K&N FIPK Group Purchase
Re: FTE 97up - CD Hot
Re: FTE 97up - CD Hot
FTE 97up - Super Chip for the 1999 2.5L 4 Cyl Engine

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 08:18:30 -0500
From: Lee Haefele
Subject: FTE 97up - RE: 97up - SD, DRW brakes/Stopping on Snow

Sam:
Re:Front wheel lockup on snow...
Think about how much worse that would be if the rear were laoded like
mine is.(10,500 total truck wgt) Is yours gas or Diesel, Pickup or
cab-chassis?
I bought mine from the small dealer across the street from my office.
The downside is the older mechanic/service mgr doesn't like the ford
computer and avoids at all costs calling Ford for help. He is going to
have his son the youngest mechanic look it up on the computer plus they
agreed to order a proportioning valve.
My truck was shipped with a vacuum brake booster, which would not stop
the loaded truck. The order book & window sticker said I got Hydro
boost. Four months of complaining finally got that changed. Now I have
good dry road brakes, except that the front rotors overheat & make
rumbling noise on downhills. I will keep you posted on my progress
getting this fixed or altered, please let me know if you get yours
repaired.
Lee Haefele
>
> Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 07:55:10 -0800
> From: "Sam Moore"
> Subject: FTE 97up - RE: 97up - SD, DRW brakes
>
> I noticed the same thing with my F350 SD DRW 4X4 that was empty while in
> snow . The front brakes locked first, took me by surprise also. My old 91
> with rear anti-lock never locked the front wheels.
> Sam Moore
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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 10:49:37 -0500
From: "Ashok Ajmani"
Subject: FTE 97up - DRL Comments Continued

Larry,
It is not too difficult. You do have to get the drivers side kick panel
off, but that is to be done regardless. The only difficulty I had was there
was no slack in the parking brake wiring and it is covered with plastic
loom. In trying to cut part of the loom, I actually severed the wire. The
fact that there was no play in the wire and the space is so cramped made it
a little difficult. I did use the supplied heavy duty heat shrink tubing
equipped butt connectors and joined the severed ends including the DRL tap
and fixed my mistake. Every thing works perfect on our vehicle. If you had
the dealer install this for you, you should go and skewer them and have them
fix the install. There are two modes the DRL's go off, i.e. when you are
stopped and apply the parking brake and when you are moving and happen to
turn on your parking lamps and beyond. Good luck.
Regards,
Ashok
- ------------------------------
Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 19:02:31 -0500
From: Larry Hackler
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - DRL Wire Info - Comments
Yau are correct. The parking brake does not keep the DRL off.
Why is it such a problem getting to the parking brake? Do they have to take
off any panels? How do you connect it to the parking brake?
Larry


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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 11:41:42 -0500
From: Jean Marc Chartier
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Disable Door Chime?

Brian K Moberg wrote:
>
> This has probably been brought up before but what is the easiest way to
> disable the lights on/key in ignition chime on a 1998 F-150?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> ___________________________________________________________________
>
Brian,

At the base of the steering column there is a Brown
connector with 6 wires, ground the Black and pink one. You
can connect it to the black wire in that same connector as
it is the ground.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 11:53:31 -0500
From: Jean Marc Chartier
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Stopped Rotating Wheels/Tires

Keith Veren wrote:
>
> Thanks, it's good to know that I am not the only one that has re-thought the
> "rotate every 7500 miles axiom". My initial message did not state it, but
> I stopped the wheel/tire rotation a few years ago with my '87 Toyota
> 4-Runner after having a perfectly smooth and straight ride changed into a
> bumpy non-aligned ride (tire pull) after rotating the tires per recommended
> milage. Practiced "non-rotation" on all cars since ['89 Camry, '98
> Expedition / '98 Explorer / '83 Chevy K20 Pick-Up / '99 SuperDuty F-350
> V-10 SuperCab 4X4 Pick-up] and have not noticed any additional tire wear
> compared to expectations. (Probably because I make sure the vehicle tires
> are as balanced as possible and I don't settle for any front-end pull, I bug
> the dealer until it's perfect, so all the tires see about the same wear
> factors).
>
> Keith
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael D. Sheridan
> To: 97up-list ford-trucks.com
> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 7:20 PM
> Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Stopped Rotating Wheels/Tires
>
> >Keith Veren wrote:
> >>
> >> How many out there find that rotating the tires invariably results in
> >> increased road vibration? I spend a lot of time getting my front-end
> >> aligned and the wheels/tires balanced and once everything is perfect I
> have
> >> found that rotating the tires only results in aggravating new little
> >> vibrations and/or "pulls" that require me to go get the front-end
> >> re-re-aligned and/or wheels/tire re-re-balanced; furthermore, I cannot
> >> always reach the smoothness of the original set-up after rotating the
> >> wheels/tires. Hence, I gave up rotating the wheels/tires and I find that
> if
> >> I spend the time to get the alignment correct and the wheels/tires
> balanced
> >> perfectly, my tires wear perfectly even and last just as long as those
> who
> >> rotate. Additionally, I do not usually drive tires past about 65 - 70%
> >> worn-out before getting new.
> >>
> >> Keith
> >
> >Hi Keith:
> >
> >Interesting post! I have often wondered about the same thing myself
> >and as I would rather have a tooth pulled than take my truck in to
> >have it worked on for any reason as a vehicle always seems to come back
> >worse off than it was when it went in. I will now forever just buy a
> >new set of tires rather that rotating and save time out of my life
> >and unneeded stress. Thank you for the wake up call.
> >
> >Michael


As I suffer from the STOP (spin tires on pavement) syndrome
I must rotate my tires as the rear tend to wear out before
the front. As far as vibration goes, worn out tires will
vibrate more than new ones regardless of where you put them.
I suspect that one gets used to the vibration until you
change it places, like when you rotate tires. Yes I must
sometimes have the front realigned, but it does save the
tires. I guess until I correct my STOP syndrome I will be
forced to rotate and realign.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 14:17:55 -0500
From: Gary & Nancy Brinck
Subject: FTE 97up - Re: Tire Rotation

> (Probably because I make sure the vehicle tires
> are as balanced as possible and I don't settle for any front-end pull, I bug
> the dealer until it's perfect, so all the tires see about the same wear
> factors).

This would avoid side-to-side wear variations but most vehicles
also wear the front tires much more than the rears because the
fronts handle more than 50% of the braking and also suffer wear
due to steering action. Having said this, I agree that some
vehicles don't seem to need rotation if the alignment and balance
are kept right on spec. But rotation compensates for a lot of
sins by the tire shop and the driver, so is a good practice for
most people.

- --
Gary Brinck
in Florida's Ocala Nat'l Forest
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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:39:44 -0500
From: Rick Heis
Subject: FTE 97up - e4od vs. 4r70w

I heard alot of talk about the different automatic transmissions.

I understand that the 1999 F150 SC SB 5.4 XLT have the 4R70W. Is this correct? What are the specs to this new tranny?


What are the advantages or disadvantages and the differences between

the 1999 4R70W and the previous E4OD? Why did Ford change them?

Is the 4R70W a better performing or quality tranny?


Thanks to all,


Rick Heis,



Rick Heis

u1c04209 mail.wvnet.edu

(second alphanumeric is the number 'one', NOT the
letter 'L')

P.O. Box 40, C-2 Road

Arthurdale, WV 26520-0040

(304) 864 6356
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Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 14:51:14 -0700
From: "Robert Benne"
Subject: FTE 97up - Lowering

I have an early 99 SD 350 4X4 and had the rear end lowered by the dealership
so I could pull various gooseneck horsetrailers. I believe they simply
replaced the blocks with 97 blocks. Truck, I think, looks better as it does
not sit as high. Fully loaded the truck is just about level and no
noticible vibrations, etc. It works so well I am surprised Ford just
doesn't confiqure all their trucks that way. Hope that helps...


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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:04:34 -0800
From: Gene Ball
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Lowering

Robert, did the dealership charge you for this?
Gene

Robert Benne wrote:

> I have an early 99 SD 350 4X4 and had the rear end lowered by the dealership
> so I could pull various gooseneck horsetrailers. I believe they simply
> replaced the blocks with 97 blocks. Truck, I think, looks better as it does
> not sit as high. Fully loaded the truck is just about level and no
> noticible vibrations, etc. It works so well I am surprised Ford just
> doesn't confiqure all their trucks that way. Hope that helps...
>
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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 20:06:50 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE 97up - ADMIN: TruckTough.com

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 20:45:03 -0500
From: "Keith Veren"
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Stopped Rotating Wheels/Tires

Typically, front tires wear first from the increased road friction being the
primary braking wheels and wear from being the primary "directors" during
steering. "STOP" syndrome, as you define it, (which I often get, but
usually in my old big-block chevy project cars, not my Expedition or F-350),
if not carried to excess, could help equalize the front-rear wear times.

Keith
>
> As I suffer from the STOP (spin tires on pavement) syndrome
>I must rotate my tires as the rear tend to wear out before
>the front. As far as vibration goes, worn out tires will
>vibrate more than new ones regardless of where you put them.
>I suspect that one gets used to the vibration until you
>change it places, like when you rotate tires. Yes I must
>sometimes have the front realigned, but it does save the
>tires. I guess until I correct my STOP syndrome I will be
>forced to rotate and realign.
>
>Regards
>
>Jean Marc Chartier
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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 20:54:32 -0500
From: "Keith Veren"
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - Re: Tire Rotation

As my other respnce confirm, yes, the fronts will wear somewhat faster than
the rear; however, by the time the fronts have worn by 60% or so the rears
are usually gone by 50%. I suppose I could squeak 10,000 or so more miles
out of them by rotation (probably rears to front / fronts to rear, each on
same sides) but if I did rotate my tires (and I have in the past), I
certainly would not do it every 7,500 miles; rather, I would rotate them
about every 20,000 miles or even just once, at the point where they are
halfway worn to the point where I consider them wornout for me (65% or, at
most, 70% tread gone).

Keith


>
>This would avoid side-to-side wear variations but most vehicles
>also wear the front tires much more than the rears because the
>fronts handle more than 50% of the braking and also suffer wear
>due to steering action. Having said this, I agree that some
>vehicles don't seem to need rotation if the alignment and balance
>are kept right on spec. But rotation compensates for a lot of
>sins by the tire shop and the driver, so is a good practice for
>most people.
>
>--
> Gary Brinck
> in Florida's Ocala Nat'l Forest
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>

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:17:51 -0800
From: Tiger
Subject: FTE 97up - re: decreasing mileage

>Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 17:24:50 -0700
>From: "Randy Kindler"
>Subject: FTE 97up - re: decreasing mileage
>
>>My last tank was 10.9 MPG and my
>>driving habits haven't changed. It only has 1800 miles >on it now and if
>>the current rate of decline continues I will be getting >under 10 MPG in
>>a month or two.
>
>Do you live in an area that uses oxygenated fuel in the winter. I know my
>mileage decreases significantly in the winter with oxy fuel. I got about 14
>mpg last summer with my 5.4 4X4. This winter, I'm getting around 11 or 12.

I live in Santa Barbara, CA, where there are no cold winters. I have no idea
what they put in the fuel here. All I know is that I get jealous when I see
all the other posts of people driving 5.4L V8s, even people with F-250 and
350's which weigh twice as much as my truck, who get about 4 MPG more
than I do.

The sole reason I got the 4.6L instead of the 5.4L was that several people
said my gas mileage would be about 2 MPG worse with the bigger engine, so
I believed them. It looks like the opposite is true. I think I got a lemon
of an engine because everyone else with a F150 and a V8 of either size gets
at least 13 MPG. I can't imagine that I drive that radically different than
everyone else.

Soon I will be moving near the Tempe-Mesa area in AZ and not only will gas be
20 cents cheaper there, but I hope there are some competent dealers who might
take the time to look at my gas mileage problem. Anyone care to recommend
their favorite dealers around Tempe-Mesa so I'll know who to go to?

The only Ford dealer within 40 miles here seems to care less. I took it in
once to have the complimentary oil change and I mentioned how the engine
sometimes hesitated, used to almost stall (that sort of went away on its
own a few weeks ago), was very noisy, and how poor the gas mileage was.
They said they'd look at it and then they came back with "it meets all
specs".

I would be happy with my truck if it weren't for the engine performance.
Well, I also wish my CD changer was mounted in the front because when I move
to AZ I won't be able to leave the CDs in the car like I can here without
them melting in the sun, so I will have to flip the seat back every time I
stop somewhere and wear the CD eject motor out.

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:29:59 -0800
From: Tiger
Subject: FTE 97up - K&N FIPK Group Purchase

>Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 11:40:09 -0500
>From: Chris Akers
>Subject: FTE 97up - K&N FIPK Group Purchase
>
>Sorry to anyone who is also on the F150 online list and has
>seen this already...
>
>A group of us have worked a deal with an online parts supplier to
>get the K&N FIPK air intake kit for '97-'98 F150s with 4.6/5.4 V8
>engines. Our price is $163.50 including shipping UPS ground anywhere
>in US. The typical price for this kit is around $190-200 + shipping.
>
>We need 10 folks and are currently have around 5. Send me private
>email if interested. I'm not making anything from this deal - except
>hopefully getting the K&N for the good price listed!

Since my 4.6L V8 is performing so poorly (11 MPG at best) I'm ready to try
almost anything the improve the engine. The only reason I don't get a K&N
air kit is that the Ford dealer said it voids the warranty. He said something
about oil contamination from the K&N can hurt the airflow sensor and the
engine, so Ford wouldn't warranty the engine any more.

I have recently seen several threads about this here, as well as on the Ford
newsgroup. It seems that the end of the story is that Ford will void your
warranty if they find out you have a K&N, while people here say there usually
aren't any problems unless you don't know what you're doing (and I don't -- I
don't even know why people oil their air filters). Of course Ford has to prove
that the filter damaged your engine, but who has the time and money to fight
that if they refuse to honor your warranty?

I don't know what to do about installing a K&N because Ford thinks they are
bad,
yet all of the Ford enthusiasts here seem to be using them without problems.
So my present course of action is not to get one, as much as I'd like to,
until
I get more facts.

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:54:28 -0800
From: Tiger
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - CD Hot

>Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 09:51:28 -0700
>From: "Brandt Dennehy"
>Subject: Re: FTE 97up - CD Hot
>
>Yes, my CD player did that to me last week also in my 99 F-250 V-10. I was
>on a 2 hour roadtrip and the heat was going the entire way (usually above
>low setting since it was about -20 Farenheit outside). I was confused when
>it started doing that. The heat vents must run too close to the CD player
>or something....I've never had a vehicle do that to me before??

Are you guys talking about the CD player mounted in the dashboard, or the
CD changer which gets mounted in the rear wall behind the driver's seat
on SuperCabs before 1999?

Or does this heating vent run near both areas?

I guess 99's with the CD player mounted between the captain's chairs don't
have this problem?

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:36:20 -0800
From: "Michael D. Sheridan"
Subject: Re: FTE 97up - CD Hot

Tiger wrote:
>
> >Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 09:51:28 -0700
> >From: "Brandt Dennehy"
> >Subject: Re: FTE 97up - CD Hot
> >
> >Yes, my CD player did that to me last week also in my 99 F-250 V-10. I was
> >on a 2 hour roadtrip and the heat was going the entire way (usually above
> >low setting since it was about -20 Farenheit outside). I was confused when
> >it started doing that. The heat vents must run too close to the CD player
> >or something....I've never had a vehicle do that to me before??
>
> Are you guys talking about the CD player mounted in the dashboard, or the
> CD changer which gets mounted in the rear wall behind the driver's seat
> on SuperCabs before 1999?
>
> Or does this heating vent run near both areas?
>
> I guess 99's with the CD player mounted between the captain's chairs don't
> have this problem?

I have the regular CD playing radio that came with my 1999 Mazda B2500
and the CDs get abnormally hot with the heater on. At least Ford had
NOT fixed the problem in the 99 Ranger/Mazda trucks.....


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