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------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks80up-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 52

Today's Topics:

Performance mods for 351M/400? [Dave Resch ]
RE: Performance mods for 351M/400? [pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Re]
'92 F250 Fuel Filter Change ["Beaman, James"
Block Heater and Shop Manual [jlester naxs.com (Jason Lester) ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest Digest V97 [Ken Payne ]
RE: '92 F250 Fuel Filter Change [Mike Marcum ]
RE: '92 F250 Fuel Filter Change ["McDonald, David" ]
unsubscribe [bob noss ]
Help: Break-in schedule ["Robert E. Cartier"
Re: computer-removal?? [Randy Zeilinger
Re: '92 F250 Fuel Filter Change [BigDogF250 aol.com ]
6.9 to 7.3 Power Stroke [Will Wood ]
Bug Shields for a PSD (PowerStroke D ["Frank P. Martin, III"
Re: Bug Deflectors on Powerstrokes? [Ducks4jim aol.com ]
Sticker Price [yhtlines surfari.net ]
Re: Block Heater and Shop Manual [Russell Casolari
Re: Fw: engine repair ["jack kagy" ]
Fuel Filters and Black Smoke [Ken Miller
RE: Sticker Price [pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Re]
new f350 [Dan Simoes ]
Re:fuel filter [Croth2 aol.com ]
Question on Side Steps for 1997 F150 [mobius-1 juno.com ]
RE: new F350 ["DAVID MUMMERY"
New FAQ on line [Ken Payne ]

Administrivia:

____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-digest-request lofcom.com
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____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 97 10:59:00 PDT
From: Dave Resch
To: "'Ford Truck List'"
Subject: Performance mods for 351M/400?
Message-Id:

Some feedback on performance mod suggestions for the 351M/400:

Pat Harrell wrote:
>The other thing I'd try is an MSD ignition module to
>compliment the Mallory coil. So the spiral core wires and gap increase
made
>a noticeable difference?

Yes, the wires and increased gap are well worthwhile and relatively
inexpensive.
The wires themselves are a bit pricey (think I paid about $45), but they
have a lifetime warranty and they made a heck of a difference even before
I put in the Mallory ProMaster coil and started changing the plug gap.
BTW the Accel wires are the 8.8mm type with a steel spiral core
conductor. The radio noise is a bit worse than stock wires, but there
are several cures for that.

So far, I have used only the recommended heat range (+ or - 1) Autolite
plugs. Timing is set to factory spec (10 BTC), plus the 2-degree cam
advance for a total of 12 BTC static timing.

Local HiPo motorheads told me that with a decent coil and metal core
wires, you can bump the plug gap well beyond 0.050. I have found that
for me, 0.060 works pretty well for both performance and longevity.
Bigger gaps give good performance for a while, but the erosion of the
electrodes quickly increases the gap so it's too much (w/in 5K miles).
With 0.060 gap, I can go about 10-15K miles before pulling the plugs and
checking/adjusting them.

I have experimented with several plug configurations over the last 3
years. One trick I read about in a NASCAR mag was clipping the ground
electrode so it doesn't extend beyond the middle of the center electrode
(sort of a poor man's simulation of the SplitFire theory). That seemed
to help a little, but w/ no objective testing to go on, I couldn't
attribute enough seat of the pants oomph to make it worth reducing the
plug life by 75%. I also tried indexing the plugs, but again, seat of
the pants feel was inconclusive and spending four times as long to change
the plugs was too much of a hassle. (Later, the HiPo motorheads told me
that indexing the plugs won't really make a difference below 6000 rpm
anyway.)

An MSD or Jacobs ignition module is in the long-term plan, but I have
been wavering over whether the performance improvement it alone would
contribute would be worth the $150 or more price tag. (That's almost as
much as the Edelbrock manifold would cost!) With all the advertising
hype I've read for MSD and Jacobs (they'll make my truck walk on water),
it makes me even more skeptical. I have the same skepticism about
SplitFire spark plugs, especially at $40 for a set! I'm also suspicious
about those new black Champion "truck" plugs that cost $3 apiece.

A long time ago, an old Ford mechanic told me that different spark plug
companies calibrate their heat ranges differently, and that the best plug
to use in any particular engine was the brand originally made for that
engine. For Ford engines, that would be either Autolite or Motorcraft.
(Autolite used to be Ford's house brand.) Since then, I have never used
Champion plugs in my Ford engines, much less (blasphemy!) AC-Delco.

Dave R.
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 97 16:38:41 EDT
From: pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Research Fabrication)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RE: Performance mods for 351M/400?
Message-Id:

I tried the Splitfire plugs and couldn't tell any difference between them
and the platinum plugs that I switch back and forth from. Some friends like
them in their motorhomes (40+ footers), and in Jetskis, but they don't seem
to help in the passenger cars they've tried. One friend has a really
screaming Camaro (twisted wedge aluminum heads, etc.) and he said the
biggest, most noticeable improvement was with the MSD 6A ignition module.
He's using the 8.8 spiral wrapped Accels too. Granted, his carburetion was
pretty heavy and the MSD made sure he was getting everything out of the fuel
he was pumping. He must know what he's doing because I haven't driven
anything with near that much street power since the late sixties. I've seen
the MSD selling lately by mail order for $130.00. Dave R. mentions indexing
his plugs. Can you explain that to me?

__
(/_) _ _ /_ /_ / _ _ _ _ /) /)
/ (_(__ (_ / (_ (_(_/ (_/ (_(/_(__(__

Patrick Harrell
pharrell bae.uga.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 16:51:08 -0500
From: "Beaman, James"
To: "'fordtrucks80up lofcom.com'"
Subject: '92 F250 Fuel Filter Change
Message-id:

Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

I am feeling the urge to change my frame mounted fuel filter and need
some advice from someone who is familiar with this procedure (never
having done it). I found a cylindrical metal object in the fuel line
mounted inside the frame on the driver's side and assume this is the
filter. Is this the actual filter or is it just a canister with the
filter inside. If so, how do I go about opening it? Finally, is this
the only filter I need to worry about? I assume this fuel filter
application is the same for other ford trucks of this time period. It
may help to know that I have the 5.8 EFI engine. Thanks for any help.

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 18:26:48 -0400
From: jlester naxs.com (Jason Lester)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Block Heater and Shop Manual
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I hope I haven't made a mistake on my new Powerstroke. I was under the
impression that the diesel automatically included the engine block heater.
After looking at mine this afternoon, I was unable to find it. Either I'm
overlooking it or you have to order it as an option. If it's standard,
where is it located? Our older 6.9L was near the top/front of the engine
and would hang out from under the front edge of the hood.

Also, can anyone recommend a really good shop/repair manual for the
Powerstroke. I flipped through a couple and they seemed to general in my
opinion. How specific can they get when they cover 1980-up or something?
Is there a specific manual available?

Thanks,
jason

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 20:21:34 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest Digest V97 #50
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 06:04 AM 7/29/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Please remove me from the mailing list. Thank you.
>

Up on pedestal....

Folks, please read the on-line FAQ, or the copy that was
emailed to you when you subscribed if you wish to unsubscribe.
It contains unsubscribe information plus there is a unsubscribe
form on the web site. I get over 100 emails a day associated
with the lists and administering them -- I don't have time to
process unsubscribes for people who don't read the FAQ. Many
people successfully subscribe and unsubscribe themselves each
day.

....climbing back down.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 17:18:42 -0700
From: Mike Marcum
To: "'fordtrucks80up lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: '92 F250 Fuel Filter Change
Message-ID:

James,

I had a 1990 F-250 with a 5.8L. It too had a canister fuel filter on
the frame, so it is probably similar to yours. The canister you see is
the entire filter. It just has inlet and outlet fuel lines connected to
it. It is easy to change, but can be a little messy, since some of the
fuel can spill out.

I found that this filter was the culprit of a perplexing
performance-related problem. The truck would not rev up higher than
3000 rpm when driving down the road (almost like a rev-limiter). It
almost acted like an electrical problem, but I found that it was just
starving for fuel. By replacing the fuel filter, it ran great again. I
also changed gas stations, since I had always filled up at a local
Texaco (just so I would be able to track a fuel-related problem).

- Mike

>----------
>From: Beaman, James[SMTP:james.beaman lmco.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 1997 2:51 PM
>To: 'fordtrucks80up lofcom.com'
>Subject: '92 F250 Fuel Filter Change
>
>I am feeling the urge to change my frame mounted fuel filter and need
>some advice from someone who is familiar with this procedure (never
>having done it). I found a cylindrical metal object in the fuel line
>mounted inside the frame on the driver's side and assume this is the
>filter. Is this the actual filter or is it just a canister with the
>filter inside. If so, how do I go about opening it? Finally, is this
>the only filter I need to worry about? I assume this fuel filter
>application is the same for other ford trucks of this time period. It
>may help to know that I have the 5.8 EFI engine. Thanks for any help.
>
>James Beaman
>james.beaman lmco.com
>Houston, Texas
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 17:07:58 -0600
From: "McDonald, David"
To: "'fordtrucks80up lofcom.com'"
Subject: RE: '92 F250 Fuel Filter Change
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text

I just changed the one on my Father-in-law's F150. Yes, the canister is
the filter, it's a honkin big ol' filter... and it's placed close to the
low spot in the fuel system. I took a bath :(

First, open up the band clamp holding the filter in place ( I opened it
all the way, not just loose). The filter has a clip on each side, two
prongs extending down through two slots in the hose. Push up on the
clips (not all the way out, just enough to dis-engage from the filter).
Now comes the fun... Pull the hose off the side that connects to the
tank, and slam the rubber cap that came with the new filter on the old
filter. Put the other cap on the 'in' side of the new filter, then 'out
with the old in with the new'. Gas runnin down yer arm.... Pull the
rubber cap off the new filter and attach the 'in' hose to it. slide the
clips back into place (making sure they catch the ribs on the new
filter). That's it...

Anyone know how to keep from becoming flammable while doin this? I have
to change mine soon too....

Dave McDonald
'90 F250 5.8L 5 spd
>----------
>From: Beaman, James[SMTP:james.beaman lmco.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 1997 3:51 PM
>To: 'fordtrucks80up lofcom.com'
>Subject: '92 F250 Fuel Filter Change
>
>I am feeling the urge to change my frame mounted fuel filter and need
>some advice from someone who is familiar with this procedure (never
>having done it). I found a cylindrical metal object in the fuel line
>mounted inside the frame on the driver's side and assume this is the
>filter. Is this the actual filter or is it just a canister with the
>filter inside. If so, how do I go about opening it? Finally, is this
>the only filter I need to worry about? I assume this fuel filter
>application is the same for other ford trucks of this time period. It
>may help to know that I have the 5.8 EFI engine. Thanks for any help.
>
>James Beaman
>james.beaman lmco.com
>Houston, Texas
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
>Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 17:48:13 -0700
From: bob noss
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: unsubscribe
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

to: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com


please remove me from your mailing list
Bob Noss

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 21:14:01 +0000
From: "Robert E. Cartier"
To: fordtrucks80up-digest lofcom.com
Subject: Help: Break-in schedule
Message-Id:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

What is considered to be a good mileage benchmark
for a 1997 4.2L V-6 engine. I wanted to change the oil
a few times before going pure synthetic or
synthetic blend but get a good break-in before
the switch.

=========================
Rob Cartier
112 Fieldbrook Road
Middletown, Ct. 06457
E-mail: rcartier snet.net
==========================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 21:45:23 -0400
From: Randy Zeilinger
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: computer-removal??
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Johnson Bradford Durkee wrote:
>
> All right Guys, question;
> How in the Heak do you get the computer out of the kick panel on a 95
> f-150 ? I got the parking brake off but can't get the Freeking computer
> out. I got a new chip hypertech) and would like to try it out ...Any
> ideas. I hope someone has done it (please)....
> Brad Johnson
> Houston, Texas------ksbdj00 tamuk.edu
>
> Texas A& I Kingsville, Texas
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

Brad, I put a Hypertech chip on my 96 F-150. The unit piggy backs the
computer. There is no need to pull the stock computer. Ulness they
made a drastic change from 95 to 96 you should have the same set-up. If
all else fails, read the directions that came with the chip.

FWIW the chip only balanced out what the Jacobs Electronic Ignition
System trashed. The Jacobs was (is) a piece of crap. However, I had to
pull the chip this afternoon just to get the truck to idle. Don't know
what the problem is. Any theories out there?

Good luck,
Randy Z.
1996 F-150 S/C 4x4 w/ 302 & 5 speed
1979 Harley XLH Sportster

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 21:55:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: BigDogF250 aol.com
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: '92 F250 Fuel Filter Change
Message-ID:

I also have a 92 f250, the cylindrical object you described is the fuel
filter and to the best of my knowledge the only filter. It shouldnt be that
hard to change , just get a replacement at a dealer ship or an auto store
such as auto zone, then just unconnewct the inlet/outlet lines and insert the
new filter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 20:01:50 -0600
From: Will Wood
To: fordtrucks80up-digest lofcom.com
Subject: 6.9 to 7.3 Power Stroke
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I was wondering if any of you out there have attempted an upgrade from a
6.9 to a 7.3 Power Stroke.

I have an 87 F350 CC Dually with a 6.9 and ATS Turbo on it. Problem is that I
tow a 9000lb RV trailer and am looking for more power. I've investigated
alternatives from Navistar, namely a DT466 which seems to be prevalent
engine but I've found a 95 Power Stroke (which Navistar calls the T444E) with
60K mi. With the cost of a new F350 up around $32K, I can't justify buying
a new one for as much use as I want out of my current unit.

So anyone out there tackled this?

Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 22:21:33 -0700
From: "Frank P. Martin, III"
To:
Subject: Bug Shields for a PSD (PowerStroke Diesel)
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have a copy of the Ford Technical Service bulletin concerning this. It
reads as follows:

"Installation of a bug shield may affect the air intake into the engine. If
a customer reports
low power, poor fuel economy, or other driveability symptoms & the vehicle
is equipped with
a bug shield, be sure to check its mounting & placement in relation to the
air intake. If it is
suspected of causing a concern, reposition or remove it & re-evaluate."

I have a Lund and have experienced no problems with it. I couldn't tell
you if it's Ford approved or not.

By the way, does anyone know what the purpose of www.powerstroke.com is for
(besides listening to the idling diesel)?

Frank P. Martin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 00:12:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ducks4jim aol.com
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Bug Deflectors on Powerstrokes?
Message-ID:

Hello Larry,
Have not heard of problems with bug deflectors. If anything, they should
assist the cooling system (so one would think). Sounds like an assembly
problem to me.

I hate to hear about late model diesels in the shop for any reason. Mine
was AWOL for 2 weeks due to an engine assembly problem... Ford didn't want to
talk about it.

Have any other group members experienced (factory related) problems with
powerstroke motors?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 21:18:58 -0700
From: yhtlines surfari.net
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Sticker Price
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

For those who are looking for a new truck, here's my suggestion:

go to www.kbb.com (Kelly Blue Book) and get the wholesale and retail
information on your desired vehicle. If you are not doing a trade-in, just
offer the dealer $150 or $200 over wholesale invoice. Unless he is a country
dealer (no offense) who sells one truck a month ......he'll sell it to you
for that. I got my new '95 for that, including a bed liner and matching
floor mats, and a tank of gas. Believe me, he made good profit on it also,
with the hold backs. I was in and out in 45 minutes.

Now if I had a trade, I would use the KBB information on it, make the same
offer as above and be happy with the wholesale price that is appropriate. If
you have a super popular trade-in (let's say a 4X Toyota pickup that some
teen ager will drool over) then hold out for more. I mean, you won't die or
anything if you don't get the darn new truck. If they say no, then thank
them and make sure they have your phone number. They'll call.

Now if you want a super popular model that is in high demand and low supply,
then any polite dealer will tell you "no thanks", cause they can definitely
sell it for more to someone else. But if you want an F150, they're in
plentiful supply. Even better, bid on a Taurus! Want a good price? Bid on a
six cylinder F150. Not a lot of demand for those here, and big supply. Ford
has lots of truck production (vs GM) and lots of supply (no strikes).
Dave Lampert

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 23:21:08 -0500
From: Russell Casolari
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Block Heater and Shop Manual
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Jason Lester wrote:
>
> I hope I haven't made a mistake on my new Powerstroke. I was under the
> impression that the diesel automatically included the engine block heater.
> After looking at mine this afternoon, I was unable to find it. Either I'm
> overlooking it or you have to order it as an option. If it's standard,
> where is it located? Our older 6.9L was near the top/front of the engine
> and would hang out from under the front edge of the hood.

The engine block heater was included with the 7.3 Power Stroke until
just a few months ago. It is now an option, code 41H. Why it was deleted
is beyond me, not everyone who owns a 7.3 PSTD lives in Las Vegas, some
of us are in the Great White North. Check tucked under the battery
(Passenger side)tray. It may be hidden there.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 01:23:09 -0000
From: "jack kagy"
To:
Subject: Re: Fw: engine repair
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

No, it pours down the side of the transmission housing. I had hoped it was
the valve cover gasket, but after changing that, I still had the leak. I
don't find fresh oil on the back of the head between the valve cover and
the head gasket. It apparently is coming from the head gasket or below.
Jack A. Kagy

----------
> From: Graphics & Research Fabrication
> To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
> Subject: RE: Fw: engine repair
> Date: Monday, July 28, 1997 12:04 PM
>
> Others have addressed where to find the repair specs. I'd like to suggest

> that the oil pouring from the back of the engine could just be coming
from a
> bad rear main oil seal. Easy to fix and cheaper than an unnecessary
rebuild.
> Does the oil appear to be coming from the transmission housing?
>
> --- Begin Included Message ---
>
> > I am thinking about doing my own work to remove-replace the head on my
81
> > Courier. It is pouring oil down the back of the engine and it does not
> > appear to be coming fromthe valve cover gasket.
> >
> > My biggest question is, "What are the torque specs and in what order
> should
> > I tighten the head bolts?"
> >
> > jak
>
> --- End Included Message ---
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 22:40:29
From: Ken Miller
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Fuel Filters and Black Smoke
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Mike,
Thanks for the info on what the guy at the International / NAVISTAR dealer
had to say. I am a firm believer on clean fuel, and will take what he said
to heart.

On another note, and also in response to Bill Price's question, I think
some of you are forgetting an important point; that being you are driving a
DIESEL truck. Therefore, even though the Powerstroke is computer
controlled, and should burn very efficiently, it is going to produce some
soot and black smoke. There are many different things that will influence
this such as: Quality and type (#1, #2, #2+15) of Fuel, air temperature
and humidity, altitude, air restriction through the air filter, etc.

Just my two cents worth.

MK

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 97 08:00:16 EDT
From: pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Research Fabrication)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RE: Sticker Price
Message-Id:

Dave, you're probably right overall. It's great to have a little knowledge
beforehand to leverage your bargaining power. But where I am we have a
little different situation with country dealers vs. the big city boys. We
have the large city dealers where you would expect that they sell more
vehicles therefore they should be able to get a little break on their
pricing. But the opposite is true. The large dealers 'in town' seem to have
plenty of customers (probably due to the University of Ga.) and they have a
take-it-or-leave-it attitude on their prices. They also have a larger
overhead than the dealers located just twenty miles away in the small town.
In shopping for the last new truck I bought, I got quotes from everybody,
because I wanted to order exactly what I wanted. The large dealer tried to
sell me whatever he could 'locate' and told me the cutoff date for new
orders had already past. I went to the country dealer. He ordered the truck
I wanted and sold it to me for $800 less than the other guy. I didn't even
get to bargain with him. It got really funny after that because I went back
to the large dealer to give him one more chance and all he told me was that
the smaller dealer was a liar! I went straight to the small guy, told him
what the other dealer said, and ordered my truck. He just laughed and said
"that's okay, when your truck comes in just drive over and see what they
say". The truck came in just when he said it would. The big dealer just
shrugged and walked off to 'help' another customer...I love it.

Pat
pharrell bae.uga.edu

--- Begin Included Message ---

go to www.kbb.com (Kelly Blue Book) and get the wholesale and retail
information on your desired vehicle. If you are not doing a trade-in, just
offer the dealer $150 or $200 over wholesale invoice. Unless he is a
country
dealer (no offense) who sells one truck a month ......he'll sell it to you
for that. I got my new '95 for that, including a bed liner and matching
floor mats, and a tank of gas. Believe me, he made good profit on it also,
with the hold backs. I was in and out in 45 minutes.
Dave Lampert

--- End Included Message ---

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 08:32:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dan Simoes
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com (ford)
Subject: new f350
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks again for help with my Ranger tranny problem, it has a leak
and is in the shop today.

My brother in law just bought a new F350, crewcab, auto (he wanted
5sp though), Powerstroke TD engine. He didn't get an owners manual
with it and has a couple of questions:

- what is the best way to break in the engine?

- recommendations on bedliners, sprayed in vs regular (ie duraliner)?

- I noticed his exhaust has weird bend marks where it comes into its
last 90 degree turn out to the right side of the truck, while the
rest of the exhaust seems to be mandrel bent - does anyone else have
marks like this, or is this a defect?

He loves the truck, and as soon as he sells his old truck (84 Chevy,
4x4, 3/4 ton, ladder rack and toolboxes, in good shape, for sale in CT!)
he can spend some money on accessories.

Any comments, hints, on this particular truck and engine would be greatly
appreciated if anyone has saved old list articles about this.

Thanks again,

| Dan |
--
Dan Simoes dans ans.net
ANS Communications http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://coimbra.ans.net/dans.html
100 Clearbrook Road (914) 789-5378 (voice)
Elmsford, NY 10523 (914) 789-5310 (fax)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 10:38:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Croth2 aol.com
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re:fuel filter
Message-ID:

sometimes it works to wrap a rag around the fuel line, that stops some of
the escaping fuel, its always a dirty job, and remeber NO SMOKING

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 15:25:36 -0500
From: mobius-1 juno.com
....


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