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------------------------------

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fordtrucks80up-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 49

Today's Topics:

RE:Mods for 351M/400 ["DAVID MUMMERY"
RE: 300-6 mileage ["DAVID MUMMERY"
Re: Vent Smells [Kenneth Overton ]
Thanks / Gear ratio [brett ]
ac condenser test pressure? & [zeb utalk.org (Lamar Zabielski) ]
Re: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 [Ducks4jim aol.com ]
Fw: engine repair ["jack kagy" ]
Re: Fw: engine repair [Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Re: Chitas Mileage?? ["chita" ]
Re: Chitas Mileage?? ["chita" ]
TPS Voltage Setting ["Kimo Owens" ]
TPS Voltage Setting ["Kimo Owens" ]
Re: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 ["Frank Hayden"
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest Digest V97 [Dan Hembree ]
Re: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 ["S. Spaulding"
F-250 Rough Ride ["Frank P. Martin, III"
RE: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 ["DAVID MUMMERY"
RE: engine repair ["DAVID MUMMERY"
Re: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 ["chita" ]
Re: Fw: engine repair [Croth2 aol.com ]

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 97 22:37:10 UT
From: "DAVID MUMMERY"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RE:Mods for 351M/400
Message-Id:

Dave, how much power is depending on how much cash. Take a look in the PAW
catalog, they seem to have a good selection for aftermarket parts. The
intake/carb swap is a great idea. A holley 600cfm w/vac. secondaries would
work great and you still would get some gas milage.
As for the motor I would replace the cam,lifters,and springs all this can be
had for about $150.00. If your willing to lose your truck for a few days get
the heads ported and polished. Just a mild job will do. You will start to see
some flow out of your K&N with these few things.
As for the exhaust, if you make improvements on flow going in you have to do
the same comming out. Try and look in the back of Peterson's 4 wheel and off
road. Some of these companies have quite a list of 351M parts. Get some sort
of headder on there.
These few addons will get you better HP. This is a great motor. Think about
it, you have a small block with the lower emnd of a big block.
Keep us posted on how you do. GOOD LUCK .

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 97 22:50:39 UT
From: "DAVID MUMMERY"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RE: 300-6 mileage
Message-Id:

Tim, a couple of quick ideas. Check and /or replace the O2 sensor. They do go
bad and it would acount for the mileage. Also, Check the fuel system. Make
sure the fuel pressure regulator is working, ie. correct amount of pressure.
Both of these things will cause bad milage and foul smell exhaust. Good Luck.

----------
From: Croth2 aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 1997 8:52 PM
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: 300-6 mileage

I have an 87 F-150 with a fuel injected 4.9L 300-6 92K. It's a great
truck, and fun to drive, but it only gets around 10 mpg. It never used to
bother me before, but the gas is starting to get expensive.
When its idling it smells like its runnin rich, and it doesnt burn any
oil, but it smokes a lot. I've changed the oil, and put a new air filter in,
but the only way to get more mpg is to drive with the tailgate down.
I dont know anything about fuel injection so I havent messed around with
it, Someone told me That maybe the timing needed set, or I needed to lean it
out a bit,
any ideas???------->Tim


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 19:45:19 -0400
From: Kenneth Overton
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Vent Smells
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Dave Armbruster wrote:

> >Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 06:32:32 -0400
> >From: Kenneth Overton
> >To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
> >Subject: Re: Vent smells
> >Message-ID:
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> >> Has anyone experienced a very bad odor coming from your vents?
> After
> >> leaving my truck sit at any airport lot for a couple of days (it
> was
> >> supposed to have been a typical humid and hot St. Louis weekend), I
>
> >> noticed
> >> I had an odor, not really like moldy bread or something, but pretty
>
> >> musty
> >> or stale anyway. It was much worse when just the top vents were on
>
> >> and was
> >> drawing in from the cowl, it went away when the A/C was on (no
> >> difference
> >> if on regular or MAX) and it didn't seem worse with hot or cold
> >> settings.
> >> I ended up turning on the MAX A/C to get the system to draw in air
> >> from
> >> under the dash and spray Lysol into the intake a couple of times.
> I
> >> think
> >> I got the problem (and made the truck smell springtime fresh), but
> >> just
> >> kinda wish I knew the exact conditions that caused it to begin. I
> >> mentioned it to the dealer, he wasn't 100%, but he thought he might
>
> >> have
> >> remembered of a TSB on it.
> >
> > I've heard of this happening on other vehicles, but not on one of
> my
> >own. It could be caused by blockage in the drain from the (I believe
> it
> >is reffered to as the condensor). This is the place where water
> drains
> >while operating the AC. If this becomes plugged, the water will not
> >drain and becomes really funky, like in the drain pan on a
> >refridgerator. I here they even sell a special cleaner to spray into
> >this area to clean it out, once you fix the drain problem. Hope this
> >helps.
> >
>
> That was my first thought too, and the condenser was draining fine.
> It
> seems the smell has diminished somewhat since spraying the
> disinfective, so
> my guess is that is was mold forming. I have been more careful when I
> turn
> off the A/C, like trying to warm the vents to ambient temp before
> exposing
> them to the moist air and turning off the fan when the A/C is not on
> to
> keep humid air from blowing through them all the time. There is a TSB
> for
> Explorers on this problem, but none on Rangers as far as I know
> (Explorer
> TSB is #96144).
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
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> For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

I don't know if this will make a difference, but I always leave my fan
on at the low setting, even if I want just fresh air from the vent. This
is mainly because I smoke, and I do this to keep fresh air circulating
through the truck. I even drive with the window open about 1 inch, even
when the temp is down in the teens. Good luck on solving your problem.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 22:10:07 -0400
From: brett
To: "fordtrucks80up lofcom.com"
Subject: Thanks / Gear ratio
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks for all the answers to my gear ratio ques. There were no data
plates on the doors so the formulas were what I was looking for. I
gathered some info from all the posts. Some I read in my nomex fire
suit. I will keep all of you posted on the progress if you like.


gottago seeya bye

Brett ITT 41

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 21:43:21 -0600 (MDT)
From: zeb utalk.org (Lamar Zabielski)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: ac condenser test pressure? &
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi All,

Getting the ac fixed here, and bought a condenser via a nationwide salvage
network, saved a 100, said to be guaranteed, I would like to do a leak down
test on it. But don't know operating or max pressure ranges. Hate to blow it
up .

Bonus Question (saving bandwidth! ), I have a sick 7.3 (88 F-250 HD,
series 50 front end, clutch) and a healthy 7.5 (4 years off the retail rack,
1000 miles on it, a 100 on it in the last two years,) is it practical,
probable, pragmatic to consider replacing the diesel with the gas? MPG is
not high on the list, embarrassing blue smoke is tho!

Zeb

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 23:58:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ducks4jim aol.com
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 question
Message-ID:

Hi Group


There appears to be a major difference in pricing between Ford dealers
in different areas. The pickup i bought in ID was STICKER PRICED 5K higher in
Reno. I think this kind of markup is B___shit. Same goes for any other areas
where markup is so high.Have other people encountered the same thing?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 00:44:33 -0000
From: "jack kagy"
To:
Subject: Fw: engine repair
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

----------
> From: jack kagy
> To: fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Subject: engine repair
> Date: Thursday, July 24, 1997 10:09 AM
>
> I am thinking about doing my own work to remove-replace the head on my 81
> Courier. It is pouring oil down the back of the engine and it does not
> appear to be coming fromthe valve cover gasket.
>
> My biggest question is, "What are the torque specs and in what order
should
> I tighten the head bolts?"
>
> jak

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 00:13:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Fw: engine repair
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

You (jack kagy) wrote:
> > From: jack kagy
> > Subject: engine repair
> >
> > I am thinking about doing my own work to remove-replace the head on my 81
> > Courier. It is pouring oil down the back of the engine and it does not
> > appear to be coming fromthe valve cover gasket.
> >
> > My biggest question is, "What are the torque specs and in what order
> > should I tighten the head bolts?"

Greetings. For something as extensive as taking off the head, I would go
and get a Chiltons (or, better yet, factory service manual). It will
have all that, plus everything else you need to do, watch out for, and
check later. I advise people to get one a manual of some sort even if
they're going to change coolant and oil themselves... good reading and
saves on costly mistakes.

And yeah, I actually sit down and read what it says before taking anything
apart... it makes a heck more sense when I'm actually doing it :-)

Take care.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 22:15:07 -0700
From: "chita"
To:
Subject: Re: Chitas Mileage??
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

----------
> From: Gizmow swbell.net
>
> Just read your responce....You did say a AVERAGE of 23mpg from Cal. to
> Mississippi with a 27ft fifth wheel....What do you get unloaded??
>
> If there is no typo there...who did you get your rear end from?? I need
to
> ditch my 3:55s

I get around 23-25 on average, most months. Across the border, it can do
25-28 because the national speed is maybe 35-45 mph. (You can go faster,
it's legal, but many folks just get used to going slower.) I'm a pretty
conservative driver. I drive long trips at night if I can, to avoid
traffic. No red light races, no tire marks anywhere. The tires are kept at
85 pounds - that promotes higher mileage too. It jiggles more, but with the
trailer back there, it all evens out enough. It has dropped to 21 a few
times, when I spent some time in Los Angeles. I think it was a combination
of reformulated fuel and stop/go traffic.

The rear was custom welded by a retired train engineer. I don't know a
whole lot of the details, frankly. He's one of those tinkerers with a back
yard completely full of tool shop, builds his own CNC equipment, etc. He
bought a semi trailer and turned that into a shop too. He's nuts about
welding and built his own rig. It looks a little like he's dragging a
cannon around. He made several additions to the Ford, including a few odd
braces where he thought the frame needed beefing up, and the rear end. I
don't know what parts he used, but it was from bigger trucks. The whole
business can support around 15,000 pounds, according to him. I didn't think
much about it, just enjoyed the carrying capacity -- until one day, I
needed a tow (dead batteries). It took six hours. AAA kept sending tow
truck after tow truck. One of them bent their lift bar. I'd WARNED them
about the rear end, but all they heard was, "F-250, super cab, with
generator in back." They finally sent out a tow truck for RVs. That did it,
no problem. That's the only time I was ever sorry.

Now you see why my life flashed in front of my eyes when I had that brake
failure????

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 22:26:32 -0700
From: "chita"
To:
Subject: Re: Chitas Mileage??
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

----------
> From: Gizmow swbell.net
> Just read your responce....You did say a AVERAGE of 23mpg from Cal. to
> Mississippi with a 27ft fifth wheel...

I forgot something I also used until just recently (when it interfered
with a new lumber rack): a windbreaker. You know, it's a big ole fiberglass
structure that smooths the area between the leading edge of the cab and the
front of the fifth wheel. You see them on big trucks, it turns the profile
of the cab way more aerodynamic. Lowers wind resistance. Once the 5th wheel
was off, it looked kinda funny anyway.

Hmmm... I guess I'm about to find out how much mileage it contributed, now
that it's off. I drove other cars for some time after that - the truck
really was meant for long trips, not as a daily driver.



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 12:09:20 -0500
From: "Kimo Owens"
To:
Subject: TPS Voltage Setting
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have an 86 EFI 5.0L Bronco. The TPS voltage is at 1.15 and some have said
that it should be around .98 to 1 volt. Does anyone have the procedure for
adjusting this. It is not in either of my manuals and would like to get
this set right. I lost the memory on the confuser when I replaced my
battery and found out that I have a bad MAP sensor. So now the idle is low
and I adjusted the idle up manually. I would like to know how to remedy
this since I need to install new MAP and adjust the TPS. Thanks for any
input.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 12:09:20 -0500
From: "Kimo Owens"
To:
Subject: TPS Voltage Setting
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have an 86 EFI 5.0L Bronco. The TPS voltage is at 1.15 and some have said
that it should be around .98 to 1 volt. Does anyone have the procedure for
adjusting this. It is not in either of my manuals and would like to get
this set right. I lost the memory on the confuser when I replaced my
battery and found out that I have a bad MAP sensor. So now the idle is low
and I adjusted the idle up manually. I would like to know how to remedy
this since I need to install new MAP and adjust the TPS. Thanks for any
input.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 18:15:28 -0600
From: "Frank Hayden"
To:
Subject: Re: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 question
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Try Denver.....I looked at trucks back in Arkansas and they were 3-6K lower
for the exact same models...

Frank
Newbie Bronco II Owner

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 20:40:43 -0400
From: Dan Hembree
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest Digest V97 #48
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Please remove my name from your automatic e-mail list. Thank you.
Dan Hembree

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 22:15:20 -0700
From: "S. Spaulding"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 question
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Quite a while ago there were some dealers in MA that got bagged for
printing up their own window stickers. This is probably the same thing.

Steve

Ducks4jim aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Group
>
> There appears to be a major difference in pricing between Ford dealers
> in different areas. The pickup i bought in ID was STICKER PRICED 5K higher in
> Reno. I think this kind of markup is B___shit. Same goes for any other areas
> where markup is so high.Have other people encountered the same thing?
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 10:44:41 -0700
From: "Frank P. Martin, III"
To:
Subject: F-250 Rough Ride
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

We have lots of roads in Pennsylvania that cause the phenomenon which my
wife and I refer to as "the horse". I suffered through serious cases of it
while towing my Coleman pop-up with my 89 Chevy K-1500 E-cab and have
experienced to a lesser degree towing it with my 96 F-250HD, SC, PSD. In
my opinion, there is nothing wrong with your truck. It's the road's
surface. As the other gentleman already said that you can increase or
decrease you speed to "break-up" the harmonics which are occurring. I have
found that there are some other "tricks" you might want to try also. If
you can, change lanes. The right most lane is usually the worst because of
the heavy truck traffic which caused the road to become that way in the
first place (No offense all you truckers out there, it's just a fact of
life). If you can't change lanes, try moving your vehicle slightly to the
right or left from the center of the lane ("out of the track" as I call
it). Since fewer vehicles have traveled there, the road surface is
sometimes a little better and thus, will break the "the horse".

Frank P. Martin
fpmartin usaor.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 97 15:39:55 UT
From: "DAVID MUMMERY"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RE: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 question
Message-Id:

If you are near try Victor Ford in Waconda Illinois. Great guys to deal with
and their service is fantastic. They have sold me both of my trucks at $50.00
over ordered invoice. Both trucks were ordered with exactly what I wanted.

----------
From: Frank Hayden
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 1997 7:15 PM
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 question

Try Denver.....I looked at trucks back in Arkansas and they were 3-6K lower
for the exact same models...

Frank
Newbie Bronco II Owner


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 97 15:11:43 UT
From: "DAVID MUMMERY"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RE: engine repair
Message-Id:

Check a Haynes manual for the torque specs.

----------
From: jack kagy
Sent: Friday, July 25, 1997 7:44 PM
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Fw: engine repair



----------
> From: jack kagy
> To: fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Subject: engine repair
> Date: Thursday, July 24, 1997 10:09 AM
>
> I am thinking about doing my own work to remove-replace the head on my 81
> Courier. It is pouring oil down the back of the engine and it does not
> appear to be coming fromthe valve cover gasket.
>
> My biggest question is, "What are the torque specs and in what order
should
> I tighten the head bolts?"
>
> jak


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 10:19:36 -0700
From: "chita"
To:
Subject: Re: F250 Crewcab screw-up and F-150 question....


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