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------------------------------ Content-Type: text/plain fordtrucks80up-digest DigestVolume 97 : Issue 26 Today's Topics: Re: F250/350 Powerstroke/Gas Rear En [Ken Miller Diesels and the EEC [JIM HURD ] Re: '96 Ranger "Check Engine" light [JIM HURD ] 4.10 gears [ROBERT.BUBALA Early Ranger Carb Woes ["David Morton" Re: '96 Ranger "Check Engine" light [Charles Cohn Re: '96 Ranger "Check Engine" light [JIM HURD ] Airbag [Emilio Chaparro performance/gas mileage [Mike_Barksdale Re: Diamond Coat Restoration ["chita" ] RE: Early Ranger Carb Woes ["DAVID MUMMERY" RE: performance/gas mileage ["DAVID MUMMERY" Re: Early Ranger Carb Woes [joe chiasson Success [Ken Payne ] Axle ratio and milage [Ken Miller Re: diesel or gas? [Bill Funk ] Oil for 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel [Gizmow Re: Oil for 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel [Ken Payne ] F250 Finally decided on ["Frank P. Martin, III" 98 Dualies [Wang456 2.0L rings? ["Randy L. Hatcher" 91 F150 TTB ["S. Spaulding" Administrivia: ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-digest-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ____________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 17:35:22 From: Ken Miller To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Re: F250/350 Powerstroke/Gas Rear End Prob. Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 10:26 AM 6/19/97 +0000, you wrote: >Hey all you F250/350 owners, > >Are you getting the gas mileage you think you should?? > >My brother wasent... He bought a new 96 F250 crew cab short bed 2wd >powerstroke 5 speed with a 3.55 gears last year. It wasent getting the >mileage he thought it should (17-18 mpg). He also noticed that at 65 mph he >was turning 2300 rpms. I wouldn't be so lucky. I mistakenly ordered it with a 4.10 ratio because I wanted the anti-slip traction. However, good'ol 20/20 hind sight says I should have stuck with the 3.55 ratio. MK ****************************************************************** Ken Miller &Personal: KRMiller Kim FossWork: KMiller2 650 Whitney Ranch #3213W (707) 229-4709 H(702) 458-6529 Henderson, NV 89014Fax (707) 474-4764 ****************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 01:18:16 -0500 (EST) From: JIM HURD To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Diesels and the EEC Message-id: Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT For info on how the EEC is used on the big Ford Diesels, go to http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.motorage.com/edar2996.htm Jim in Central NY '79 F-150 (302!) '92 Topaz (3.0l) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 23:23:18 -0500 (EST) From: JIM HURD To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Re: '96 Ranger "Check Engine" light Message-id: Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT FWIW, on my EEC-IV (92 Topaz), I just connect a jumper wire from STI (Self Test Input) to the STO (Self Test Output) on the EEC-IV diagnostic plug....and then you can read the EEC codes by counting the flashes of the MIL (Check Engine Light)...no code scanner required. Jim in Central NY '79 F-150 (302!) '92 Topaz (3.0l) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 06:38:40 -0500 From: ROBERT.BUBALA To: "fordtrucks80up(a)lofcom.com" Subject: 4.10 gears Message-Id: RR DONNELLEY & SONS COMPANY TO: OAS -00000001 *fordtrucks80up FROM: ROBERT.BUBALA DATE: 06/20/97 TIME: 06:52:43 SUBJECT: 4.10 gears Hello I was just reading a post on getting bad gas mileage with the 4.10 gears, and now I am thinking about my choice. I was going to order the 4.10 for towing purposes with the 5.8L V8. How much of a mileage difference are we talking? I thought that I finally made up my mind about what I wanted on the truck, but here we go again. Robert Bubala mailto:robert.bubala ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 08:32:27 -0400 From: "David Morton" To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Early Ranger Carb Woes Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Anybody have any ideas on an aftermarket carburetor for a 2.0 liter 84 Ranger? Mine has incurable problems, it was awful when it was new, and to add insult to injury, the local parts house wants $350 bucks for a rebuilt one! I was thinking about calling the Weber people to see if they have an inexpensive downdraft conversion, but I"m open to suggestions. Dave dmorton ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 04:54:53 -0400 From: Charles Cohn To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Re: '96 Ranger "Check Engine" light Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I have a 1994 Econoline, and I can read the trouble codes as follows. If your truck has the EEC-IV control system, you can read and clear them without an instrument as follows: I. The KOEO (Key On, Engine Off) Test Transmission in park, air conditioner off. Jumper the Self Test Connector to battery negative terminal. (This is a single-wire connector, stored under the hood next to the multi-conductor diagnostic connector.) Turn on the ignition. Watch the Check Engine light (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) and observe the following: 1. A brief flash when the computer sends the codes out rapidly to any instrument that may be connected. (This is the same information that will later be displayed for you to read.) 2. After a few seconds delay, the codes are displayed. The first digit of the first code is displayed as a series of 1/2-second flashes, 1/2 second apart. Count the flashes to read the digit. 3. Subsequent digits are displayed the same way, with a 2-second pause between digits. 4. Additional codes are displayed the same way, with a 4-second delay between codes. 5. After all codes have been displayed, they are repeated once. 6. After the last digit of the last code, there is a 6-9 second delay, followed by a single separator flash. 7. After another 6-9 second delay, the Continuous Memory codes are displayed in the same manner. 8. After all codes have been displayed twice, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper. To clear the continuous memory codes, execute another KOEO test and disconnect the jumper before those codes are displayed. II. The KOER (Key On, Engine Running) Test Transmission in park, air conditioner off. Jumper the Self Test Connector to battery negative terminal. Turn on the ignition and start the motor. Watch the Check Engine light for a series of flashes equal to half the number of cylinders (e.g. 3 for a 6-cylinder engine). At that point, do three things: 1. (For E40D transmission) Press the overdrive button on the shift lever to turn on the OFF light, and press it again to turn off the light. 2. Step hard on the brake pedal and release. 3. Turn the steering wheel half a turn and then back. Watch the Check Engine light for a single flash. At that point, rapidly push the gas pedal to the floor and immediately release it. After a few seconds, the codes will be displayed. After all codes have been displayed twice, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper. RECOMMENDED READING Your vehicle's shop manuals and diagnostic manuals. (For Fords, 1988 to current) Charles O. Probst, Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control (Robert Bentley, Cambridge, MA, 1993) $29.95 Haynes Techbook, Automotive Computer Codes & Electronic Engine Management Systems Charles Cohn, chasmagc 6311 Mark Trail, Austell, Georgia 30001 (30168 after 6/30/97) USA voice: 770-944-7510 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 10:11:17 -0500 (EST) From: JIM HURD To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Re: '96 Ranger "Check Engine" light Message-id: Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT Charles Cohn; Thanks for the nice write up on pulling the EEC-IV codes without needing special instruments. Jim in Central NY '79 F-150 (302!) '92 Topaz (3.0l) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 13:41:44 -0300 From: Emilio Chaparro To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Airbag Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a Ranger 1996, the ligth "airbag"inthe control panel turn on. My mechanics told me that the problem is in the battery. I don't believe. Any one can help me? Emilio ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 10:50:58 -0700 From: Mike_Barksdale To: fordtrucks80up Subject: performance/gas mileage Message-ID: I have a 90' F250 4X4 with a 5.8L engine. It has been lifted 4" to make room for some 35" tires and has 4.56 gears to push those tires. Needless to say my gas mileage SUCKS. I have been looking at a few options that should increase the performance and may increase the gas mileage as well. 1) K/N air filter replacement kit. So far I have only heard good things about these. 2) New headers. I already have a flowmaster exhaust from the cat back. I have heard that new headers should give me some more HP and may increase the mileage a little. But, I have also heard that the heat coming off of the after-market headers plays hell with the starter and over time I will be replacing starters. Can anyone confirm this or give me any information on after-market headers? (problems and benefits.) 3) Does anyone have any other suggestions for increasing mileage? Every little bit helps. Thanks, mike_barksdale ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 20:29:28 -0700 From: "chita" To: Subject: Re: Diamond Coat Restoration Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit ---------- > From: Brian Pynn > To: 'fordtrucks80up > Subject: Diamond Coat Restoration > Date: Monday, June 16, 1997 9:21 AM > > Anybody know of any good products or techniques to remove minor brush > scratches from clearcoat? 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, if it's really just MINOR scratches. Run over it lightly with a fingernail. If you can SEE scratches but cannot FEEL them, Imperial will do the job. If you can feel something with your fingernail, it's more serious. You need to polish it then. Again, Meguiar's has a couple of products that could help, plus using glaze on top of it will hide them. Check the labels, Meguiar's makes a large number of products. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Jun 97 03:06:59 UT From: "DAVID MUMMERY" To: fordtrucks80up Subject: RE: Early Ranger Carb Woes Message-Id: Try to find a older mustang w/2.3L(a 4 cyl). The older ones 79 to 81 have a two barrel card that would give enough cfm's for your truck. ---------- From: David Morton Sent: Friday, June 20, 1997 7:32 AM To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Early Ranger Carb Woes Anybody have any ideas on an aftermarket carburetor for a 2.0 liter 84 Ranger? Mine has incurable problems, it was awful when it was new, and to add insult to injury, the local parts house wants $350 bucks for a rebuilt one! I was thinking about calling the Weber people to see if they have an inexpensive downdraft conversion, but I"m open to suggestions. Dave dmorton ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Jun 97 03:03:48 UT From: "DAVID MUMMERY" To: fordtrucks80up Subject: RE: performance/gas mileage Message-Id: Mike, The headers are worth the trouble. BBK sells shorti headers that drop right in place of the stock manifolds. Also some heaad work would help, but if you do that might as well do the intakes. Upper and Lower. I would think a new grind cam and the other things mentioned would be of great help ---------- From: Mike_Barksdale Sent: Friday, June 20, 1997 12:50 PM To: fordtrucks80up Subject: performance/gas mileage I have a 90' F250 4X4 with a 5.8L engine. It has been lifted 4" to make room for some 35" tires and has 4.56 gears to push those tires. Needless to say my gas mileage SUCKS. I have been looking at a few options that should increase the performance and may increase the gas mileage as well. 1) K/N air filter replacement kit. So far I have only heard good things about these. 2) New headers. I already have a flowmaster exhaust from the cat back. I have heard that new headers should give me some more HP and may increase the mileage a little. But, I have also heard that the heat coming off of the after-market headers plays hell with the starter and over time I will be replacing starters. Can anyone confirm this or give me any information on after-market headers? (problems and benefits.) 3) Does anyone have any other suggestions for increasing mileage? Every little bit helps. Thanks, mike_barksdale ____________________________________________________________________ Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 00:08:55 -0300 From: joe chiasson To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Re: Early Ranger Carb Woes Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit David Morton wrote: > > Anybody have any ideas on an aftermarket carburetor for a 2.0 liter > 84 Ranger? Mine has incurable problems, it was awful when it > was new, and to add insult to injury, the local parts house > wants $350 bucks for a rebuilt one! > > I was thinking about calling the Weber people to see if they have > an inexpensive downdraft conversion, but I"m open to suggestions. > > Dave > dmorton > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/ > For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request > Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne Holly s**t, I recently rebuilt, and recarbed my '84 Ranger 2.0l engine. Where are you getting the carb from. Mine cost me 200 after trade in, yes it had to be adjusted, but mileage has improved greatly. Have you modifieds the emission systems any? The only thing not still running on mine is the air pump and the carb solenoid. Let me know if I can help you. 2.0l REBUILDER Joe P.S. At start up in cold weather do you get loud banging for a second or two? If so I have an answer for you. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 23:13:43 -0400 From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Success Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Just wanted to thank everyone on the 1980 and later list for making it a success. It was off to a very slow start but has picked up enormously. In the last week its message traffic caught up to and surpassed the 1979 and older list. Membership is roughly 325 out of about 800 members. Not bad when you consider this list is less than 2 months old and the other has had since February. Thanks, -Ken 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8 List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there): http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 20:48:28 From: Ken Miller To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Axle ratio and milage Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Robert, There is not a clear cut answer for this. You need to decide what you are going to be doing with the truck for the majority of the time. Why? From the sounds of it, you are going to be pulling a trailer. I assume a good sized one. In pulling this trailer, I assume you are not going to be Trucking-down the road at 70 to 75 mph (Actual Speed limits here in Nevada). The wind resistance would just suck the fuel, no matter what engine or ratio you had. For some of us who drive empty most of the time, and with our 4.10 axle ratios, our engine RPM's are up around 2400 when we are going 70 mph. If you look at the torque curve (don't confuse this with the power curve) for the Powerstroke, it peaks at about 2000 rpms and then starts to drop at about 2200, and by the time you get to 2500 rpms, it's falling fast. Now with a 3.55 ratio, the rpms are around 2100 for the same 70 mph, closer to the peak torque, and thus better milage. However, in your case, if you were pulling your trailer at 60 mph, the 4.10 ratio would put the engine at about 2000 rpms. Just at the peak torque. But if you had the 3.55 ratio, then your rpms would be 1800, below the torque peak, and low on power and you would be lugging the engine most of the time. This is one of the reasons the Big Rigs have so many gears. So that they can keep the engine speed right at the peak torque no matter how fast they are going down the road. Sorry to be so long winded, but just to say a 3.55 ratio is better would not be a correct response. If you are set on the gas engine, I would ask around for a power and torque cure for that engine. Find out at what engine speed the peak torque is, and then through some math, find the best axle ratio that will fit your intended driving habits. For manual 5 speed, engine rpms for 60, 65, and 70 mph. Powerstoke's peak torque is around 2000 rpms. AxleSpeed Ratio606570 4.10200022502400 3.55180019502100 ****************************************************************** Ken Miller &Personal: KRMiller Kim FossWork: KMiller2 650 Whitney Ranch #3213W (707) 229-4709 H(702) 458-6529 Henderson, NV 89014Fax (707) 474-4764 ****************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 04:38:08 -0700 From: Bill Funk To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Re: diesel or gas? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 11:16:38 -0500 > From: ROBERT.BUBALA > Subject: F250 finally decided on > Well last night after talking with the salesman, I have figured out > that I am definitely going to order a F250HD 4x4 regular cab. Now, I > just have 1 major choice left, and that is the diesel or 5.8L V8. I > could have sworn that I was told by someone that Ford did not have any > more 5.8L V8 engines left, but my salesman thinks that they still have > some left. > > So, I understand what the pros are of having a diesel: better gas > mileage, lower maintenance, and more torque. I really do not know > what the cons are. The only 2 con sI can think of is having to find a > diesel fuel pump and the extra cost of getting the engine, but there > has to be some more out there. How about finding places that have > qualified people who know how to work on diesels. > > I guess that since I will be towing the Jeep around 12 times a year > (maybe a little more) I will not be doing a heavy amount of towing. I > am possibly considering getting a slide in camper but that would not > be until next year. > > Well Ford gurus, please offer your opinions to a confused individual. > I would like to order the truck before the end of the month. > > Oh yeah, I forgot to ask my salesman, but does anyone know if the F250 > HD XLT comes standard with a rear bumper? Also, in the option book, > there is no listing for a trailer hitch, and I would think that the > trailer package would come with it, but it does not. > I don't consider myself a guru, but here goes: Some cons of diesels... diesel fuel smells, and the smell lingers diesels are noisey diesels have a much narrower power band than gas engines (this requires a change in the way you or the automatic will shift) BTW, why not get the SuperCab option? That room behind the front seat is fantastic, IMO. I don't think rear bimpers are standard on any pickups, except a few special editions. Good luck! -- Bill Funk President, ASCII User Group http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.starlink.com/~ascii ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 17:44:19 -0500 (CDT) From: Gizmow To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Oil for 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Ok folks, lets here what you think abot this one. I was in Pep Boys today picking up some odds and ends. I noticed that Pep Boys now has a oil with there brand name that meets the Ford spec. for the powerstroke. It was on sale for 3.88 a gallon, that is considerably less than Shell or Chevron. The guy at Pep Boys said it was made for them by one of the major oil companys. This was the first time I had seen this stuff. Have anyone ever seen it before? What do you think.....Have any of you used this oil, or would any of you use this oil? Let me know Mike ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 20:10:30 -0400 From: Ken Payne To: fordtrucks80up Subject: Re: Oil for 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" At 05:44 PM 6/21/97 -0500, you wrote: >Ok folks, lets here what you think abot this one. > >I was in Pep Boys today picking up some odds and ends. I noticed that Pep >Boys now has a oil with there brand name that meets the Ford spec. for the >powerstroke. >It was on sale for 3.88 a gallon, that is considerably less than Shell or >Chevron. The guy at Pep Boys said it was made for them by one of the major >oil companys. >This was the first time I had seen this stuff. Have anyone ever seen it before? > >What do you think.....Have any of you used this oil, or would any of you >use this oil? > >Let me know > >Mike > Is is API certified? If so, then it ought to be okay. Personally I only use Castrol but I've never heard of anyone having problems with Pep Boys oil (their service is a different story). Advance Auto parts relables Havoline (according to one of their guys) and I'm willing to bet the Pep Boys oil is probably a major brand. -Ken 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8 List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there): http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 23:53:05 -0700 From: "Frank P. Martin, III" To: Subject: F250 Finally decided on Message-Id: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > SUBJECT: F250 finally decided on > So, I understand what the pros are of having a diesel: better gas > mileage, lower maintenance, and more torque. I really do not know > what the cons are. The only 2 con sI can think of is having to find a > diesel fuel pump and the extra cost of getting the engine, but there > has to be some more out there. How about finding places that have > qualified people who know how to work on diesels. >Considering that I have only had to have my diesel worked on once in the > last 12 years that I have owned it (86 F250 4x4), finding someone to work > on it is not really a concern. Also, this new Powerstroke is going into a > lot of mid sized trucks since it now has much improved power. So, you may > not find a "car" mechanic who knows how (or has the equipment) to work on > it. But if you look at some of the TRUCK shops they will be able to work > on it. >There are a few cons. One is the oil changes. At 14 quarts an oil > change, that adds up in hurry. Especially if you take it somewhere to have > them do it and pay their price for oil and filters. I buy the oil (Good > Oil, don't skimp) and filters and either change it myself, or if I'm on the > road, have one of these quick lube places do it for me. It costs me about > $10 to $15 to have them do it, but it is still cheaper that way and I know > that I getting good oil. >Finding a diesel pump is not has hard as you think. When you drive a > diesel, you start noticing fuel pumps in places that you didn't before. I am curious to know where you get your oil changed on a diesel for $10 to $15. I can't even BUY the oil for that price and the oil filter itself runs anywhere from about $10 to $15. Hmmmm..... Prices must be much cheaper out west than they are here in Pennsylvania. Maybe I should move. Hey, all kidding aside, there are some definite maintenance differences between gasoline and diesel engines. While you'll save money at the pump, you can probably buy three or more oil filters for that 351 V-8 as opposed to one for the diesel. And that's just one example. I'm not complaining, I like my Powerstroke. But I only want to point out that it's an entirely different "animal" than a gasoline engine; even in the way it performs. And It takes some getting used to. You won't win any races with one off the line (with the 4.10 axle you'll need to shift that 5 speed manual before you hit 20-25 mph even though you started out in second) but once you get that puppy rolling and the turbocharger whining.... they're yours for the (over) taking; especially if you're going uphill. While I'm on the subject of Powerstrokes, I do have an unusual question: Does anyone else out there own a 1996 F-250 Super Cab, short bed, 2 wheel drive with a Powerstroke or do I own the only one ever made? I've yet to see another one like it. Long beds with a Powerstroke...yes; but I have never seen another short bed besides mine.....just curious. Frank P. Martin fpmartin ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 23:54:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Wang456 To: fordtrucks80up Subject: 98 Dualies Message-ID: Hi Everyone, > >I heard that 98 Ford Superduty is going to change to a 19.5" 8 lug wheel made >by > >Accuride,does anyone know where can I get a actural wheel? or any information >on this? > >Any advice will be appreciated. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 01:44:21 -0400 (EDT) From: "Randy L. Hatcher" To: fordtrucks80up Subject: 2.0L rings? Message-ID: Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII can someone tell me if it would be better to have the rings replaced on my 1986 2.0L Ranger or would I be better off getting a rebuilt {or rebuilding- I know how} wngine? please e-mail replies,thank you. .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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