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Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 00:05:49 -0400 (EDT)
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------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks80up-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 56

Today's Topics:

Re: Deletion from this list please ["Harry Buckle"

Administrivia:

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Aug 1997 13:09:27 +1000
From: "Harry Buckle"
To:
Subject: Re: Deletion from this list please
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
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I wish to be removed from this list please ... Thank you. ----------
From: fordtrucks80up-digest-request lofcom.com
To: fordtrucks80up-digest lofcom.com
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest Digest V97 #53
Date: Saturday, 2 August 1997 4:37

- ----------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks80up-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 53

Today's Topics:

$75 over invoice or?? [Edward A Arkin
Re: Sticker Price [Ducks4jim aol.com ]
A little help.... [Mike Krause ]
Remove me from the mailing list plea ["Jeffrey R. Jackson"
Help: Question re: Shell / cab clear [R Mills ]
86 F-150 C-6 tranny ["Roger Fletcher"
New Website [jlester naxs.com (Jason Lester) ]
RE: fuel filter ["DAVID MUMMERY"
help [belfast4 juno.com (Dennis M Sloan) ]
Re: New Website [Ken Payne ]
Re: 86 F-150 C-6 tranny [David & Cyn ]
Help- AOD not working! [mrkrispy webtv.net (Ian Holter) ]
Re: help [silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob) ]
Re: help [Ken Miller
Block Heater and Shop Manual for PSD ["Frank P. Martin, III"
Re: help [Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Exhaust (Brake) Valve [Ken Miller
...no subject... [yhtlines surfari.net ]
97 Ranger Mileage ["Robert Leifer"
Re: 97 Ranger Mileage [silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob) ]
5.0 Headers [silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob) ]
Re: 86 F-150 C-6 tranny [PhilDyson aol.com ]
Re: 5.0 Headers [Captain Nemo

Administrivia:

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Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
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- ----------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 21:11:31 -0700
From: Edward A Arkin
To: Ford trucks talk
Subject: $75 over invoice or??
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

While i was looking for some ford info i came accross these two sites

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.alinks.com/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.fordforless.com/

the 1st says $75 over invoice and the other didn't say but it looked
like invoice
this is solely for your information
i didn't check either out
hey -- i already bought my 97 [ and at $400 over invoice]
so take them for for a web surf
this last site looks like a good one

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.f150 online. com/

it all about the 97 -- it has links to all kinds of parts [k&h filters
headers, chips, bumpers all kinds of stuff]
its got 97 service recalls
all kinds a stuff i'd rather look at than tellya bout
over & out
ed 97 f-150

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 00:26:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ducks4jim aol.com
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: Sticker Price
Message-ID:

I would like to hear from others on this!!!


List price on a 97 Supercab powerstroke in my town is ...$36K!!!!!!!

This site should be able to help everybody find a reasonable price on a
vehicle without having to go 500 miles, like I did. Is there any reason for
such a major difference in prices between areas?

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 00:06:42 -0500
From: Mike Krause
To: fordtrucks80up-digest lofcom.com
Subject: A little help....
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I was wondering if anyone out there has any idea 1) How hard it is to
change a fuel filter and water pump for a '91 Ford Explorer and 2) How
to actually go about doing it. Also, while I'm on here, does a MSD
ignition make that noticeable of a difference in performance, gas
milage, and low-end torque?? I have seen a MSD and wiring harness for
my Explorer for around $150 and just wondering if I should purchase it.
Any downfalls to a MSD?? Thanks to all.
Mike

- ----------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Jul 1997 22:26:49 -0700
From: "Jeffrey R. Jackson"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Remove me from the mailing list please
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Remove me from the mailing list please

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:02:58 -0600
From: R Mills
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Help: Question re: Shell / cab clearance for '97 F-150
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi:
I had a shell installed on my 97 Ford F-150. There is less than 1/4
inch clearance between the top rounded edge of the cab and the shell.

Question: How far does the bed of the truck "flex" when you are off road
compared to the truck? (If the bed/shell moves compared to the cab,
what clearance do I need to avoid the shell rubbing?)

Question: Is there a Ford recomendation or place I could look? (Local
dealerships dont have any answer.)

The base of the shell looks like it is in the correct position on the
bed, but the top of it sure seems close to the cab...

Please email response. thanks.

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 09:27:19 PDT
From: "Roger Fletcher"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: 86 F-150 C-6 tranny
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain

My 86 F-150 302 with C-6 has a sick tranny. It drags and heats, got it
hot enough towing a trailer to blow out front seal. I have decided to
get brave and overhaul it myself with a friend to help and give us both
someone to blame if things don't go well. I have a kit and manual
published by a outfit called Automatic Transmission Service Group which
makes it look real complicated. Any advice you can give me on the job
would be appreciated. I've got money invested in the kit, so please
don't advise me to go to a shop.

______________________________________________________

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 17:43:25 -0400
From: jlester naxs.com (Jason Lester)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: New Website
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I just wanted to let you all know that I've got a new website devoted to
Power Stroke diesel owners. I've got lots of helpful links, a discussion
area, photo gallery, and driving & maintenance tips. I'm in need of more
photos and tips, so send what you have. The web address is
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.abol.com/users/jlester/

Drop by and see what you think.
Jason Lester
jlester naxs.com
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.abol.com/users/jlester/

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 97 22:18:22 UT
From: "DAVID MUMMERY"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RE: fuel filter
Message-Id:

Just a thought, Disconect The fuel pump via. electricaly and run the engin
till the fuel runs out of the line. Now you can change the filter without
getting dripped on. Try it, it works.
Good luck

----------
From: Croth2 aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 1997 9:38 AM
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re:fuel filter

sometimes it works to wrap a rag around the fuel line, that stops some of
the escaping fuel, its always a dirty job, and remeber NO SMOKING


____________________________________________________________________
Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 13:36:26 -0400
From: belfast4 juno.com (Dennis M Sloan)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: help
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=unknown-8bit
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

When do you know that you need a new catalytic converter? I have a 1990
Ford F350 460 engine. Any help would be appreciated. The floor above
the converter gets hot enough to melt a plastic bag. Would this be one
of the signs? Thank you, Dennis.
τΏτ I was wrong once, but I was mistaken τΏτ

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 20:32:06 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: New Website
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 05:43 PM 7/31/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I just wanted to let you all know that I've got a new website devoted to
>Power Stroke diesel owners. I've got lots of helpful links, a discussion
>area, photo gallery, and driving & maintenance tips. I'm in need of more
>photos and tips, so send what you have. The web address is
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.abol.com/users/jlester/
>
>Drop by and see what you think.
>Jason Lester
>jlester naxs.com
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.abol.com/users/jlester/

Let me know if you want this added to our links page. With 200-300
hundred visitors a day on our site it's sure to bring some traffic
to your site. The only thing I ask is that you put a return link
to Ford Truck Enthusiasts on yours. Anyone else on our lists can
take me up on this offer too.

-Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
(subscribe/unsubscribe forms on the web site)

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 20:34:49 -0400
From: David & Cyn
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 86 F-150 C-6 tranny
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Roger Fletcher wrote:
>
> My 86 F-150 302 with C-6 has a sick tranny. It drags and heats, got it
> hot enough towing a trailer to blow out front seal. I have decided to
> get brave and overhaul it myself with a friend to help and give us both
> someone to blame if things don't go well. I have a kit and manual
> published by a outfit called Automatic Transmission Service Group which
> makes it look real complicated. Any advice you can give me on the job
> would be appreciated. I've got money invested in the kit, so please
> don't advise me to go to a shop.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> >
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com



DON'T WORRY IT'S NOT THAT TOUGH A JOB.

I am no automatic transmission mechanic and have rebuilt about 5
transmissions over the years including the Ford C6, they have all worked
great.
Get yourself a lot of cardboard boxes and ziplock freezer bags. Number
and or label the boxes and bags as you slowly take apart the
transmission. Be sure to put each bearing, ( copper colored looking
thrust washers really) in a different numbered bag so you get them back
in the right place. Use the boxes for the different sub assemblies, and
only work on one of the sub assemblies at a time. Keep everything as
clean as possible and do not throw any of the old rubber seals away
until you have compared it to the new seal, a lot of them might look the
same if you don't have the old one to compare it to.
Do not take the valve body apart without a very good diagram showing
where all the springs and balls go. And when you do take it apart do
one valve at a time. Cleaning all the parts for that valve and putting
it back together before taking the next valve and springs apart.
All in all its no harder then over hauling a carburetor, and I assume
you have done that before??

Let me know how it goes,


Good Luck,


David

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 20:46:28 -0400
From: mrkrispy webtv.net (Ian Holter)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Help- AOD not working!
Message-Id:
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT

I have a "92 Ford F150 5.0 liter 4x4. The AOD only works in the morning
when there has been a dew on the ground and at no other times. Could
this be a sensor or sending unit problem? Any ideas or suggestions would
be helpful. Does anyone else have this
problem? Let me know!!!
Thanks Ian

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 21:36:30 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Cc: belfast4 juno.com
Subject: Re: help
Message-ID:

On Thu, 31 Jul 1997 13:36:26 -0400 belfast4 juno.com (Dennis M Sloan)
writes:
>When do you know that you need a new catalytic converter? I have a
>1990 Ford F350 460 engine. Any help would be appreciated. The floor
>above the converter gets hot enough to melt a plastic bag. Would this
>be one of the signs? Thank you, Dennis.
>τΏτ I was wrong once, but I was mistaken τΏτ


Oh yeah! You could say that you need a new converter. Sounds like fuel
is building up in there.

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 18:45:18
From: Ken Miller
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: help
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>>When do you know that you need a new catalytic converter? I have a=20
>>1990 Ford F350 460 engine. Any help would be appreciated. The floor=20
>>above the converter gets hot enough to melt a plastic bag. Would this=20
>>be one of the signs? Thank you, Dennis.
>>=F4=BF=F4 I was wrong once, but I was mistaken =F4=BF=F4

Replace it ASAP. Speaking as a Fire Fighter, I would say that Catalytic
Converters are 1 of 3 major causes of car/truck fires. Electrical and
fuel/oil leaks being the other two. As you mentioned, it was hot enough to
melt the bag. Usually the carpet or floor mat are next, and when they
decide to burn, it's all over.

Good Luck

MK
******************************************************************
Ken Miller & Personal: KRMiller Vegas.Infi.Net
Kim Foss Work: KMiller2 ci.Las-Vegas.NV.US
650 Whitney Ranch #3213 W (707) 229-4709 H(702) 458-6529
Henderson, NV 89014 Fax (707) 474-4764
******************************************************************

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 22:28:40 -0700
From: "Frank P. Martin, III"
To: "Ford Truck Digest"
Subject: Block Heater and Shop Manual for PSD
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

On my 96 PSD, the line for the block heater was kind of folded up and held
together with one of those nylon straps that you use to hold bundles of
wire together. It was shoved somewhere (as I recall) along side the left
(driver's) side between the radiator and the battery. I had a hell of a
time getting a tool into that little area to cut the nylon strap. One nice
thing is that there was a plug cover on it to protect the bare prongs of
the plug from weather or damage. I carry a 100 foot extension cord with me
at all times just in case I'm in a strange place and I need to plug it in.
Since it only takes about 3 hours for the heater to be effective, at home,
I have a timer that I plug it into that comes on about 3am in the morning
(I leave for work about 6:30) to conserve electricity. The Navistar web
site (www.navistar.com/engine/t/t.html) claims that the T444E (the PSD)
will start unaided down to -20f. I tried mine at about +3f. It started ok
but was rather tempremental and bulky until it fully warmed up.

Concerning manuals. For the PSD, I have not found much out there unless
you want to buy them from Ford (get out your wallet). Haynes has just
released their updated diesel techbook, 10330(1736) with additional
information that covers the PSD. If you look for it in the stores though,
BE CAREFUL!!! Ensure that the front cover page specifies "445 cu in (7.3
liter Power Stroke)". The older manual only shows "445 cu in (7.3 liter)".
The PSD is NOT covered in this manual and the front covers of both manuals
are identical except for this difference between the two. Unfortunately,
this same manual covers the GM diesels (ugh) and the Ford 6.9 also. So for
as thick as it appears, You'll only find part of the manual useful unless
you need info on the other diesel engines too.

Keep on dieselin !!!

Frank P. Martin
fpmartin usaor.net

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 21:54:08 +1900 (CDT)
From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: help
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

You (Ken Miller) wrote:
> >>When do you know that you need a new catalytic converter? I have a=20
> >>1990 Ford F350 460 engine. Any help would be appreciated. The
floor=20
> >>above the converter gets hot enough to melt a plastic bag. Would
this=20
> >>be one of the signs? Thank you, Dennis.
>
> Replace it ASAP. Speaking as a Fire Fighter, I would say that Catalytic
> Converters are 1 of 3 major causes of car/truck fires. Electrical and
> fuel/oil leaks being the other two. As you mentioned, it was hot enough
to
> melt the bag. Usually the carpet or floor mat are next, and when they
> decide to burn, it's all over.

Greetings. That's why many cars have aluminized-fibreglass layer on
top of the exhaust path underneath the carpet. My Bronco II does... and
I'm sure that if it wasn't for that insulator, there would be no car :-|
The cat heat shield was gone and rusted away for a few years when I
got the truck... no idea why inspections don't look for it!?!?!

Take care.

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 19:39:45
From: Ken Miller
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Exhaust (Brake) Valve
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Howdy All,
In the June issue of Trailer Life magazine, pp 87, was a Product
Evaluation on PacBrake; an aftermarket exhaust retarder that "bolted" onto
the turbocharger of a Powerstroke. The PacBrake is a buttefly valve that
is vacume operated, electricly controlled. When the valve closes, it
produces exhaust back pressure, which helps the engine in slowing down the
rig on steep hills and heavy loads. There are several other manufactures
of this same device. Jacobs has made one for the Dodge diesel that is even
factory authorized.

In looking through my Helm maintenance manuals, I discoverd that the
Powerstroke already has this same type of valve installed as part of the
turbocharge housing. It is operated by oil pressure from the engine, and
controlled electronicly by the Power Control Module (the engine computer).

My question is this: Does anyone know why one could not use this existing
valve (with some modification to the electrical control circuit) to
accomplish the same thing a $890 aftermarket product does?

Thanks in advance for your input.
MK
******************************************************************
Ken Miller & Personal: KRMiller Vegas.Infi.Net
Kim Foss Work: KMiller2 ci.Las-Vegas.NV.US
650 Whitney Ranch #3213 W (707) 229-4709 H(702) 458-6529
Henderson, NV 89014 Fax (707) 474-4764
******************************************************************

- ----------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 21:19:40 -0700
From: yhtlines surfari.net
To: pharrell bae.uga.edu
Cc: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: ...no subject...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

That's interesting for a big dealer, I suppose you talked to the sales
manager? There are four dealers here (Central California), one an old
fashioned country dealer that was owned by Vegas criminals (Ford is pumping
volume into itnow, making sure it stays clean) and three big dealers. They
will all do exactly what I said. If they don't they know that I will go to
one of the shopper outfits and get one the same way.

I grew up near Atlanta (Clarkston). I have a summer place on lake Sinclair
where I occasionally go. My b-in-l bought a big new 96 Dodge last year thru
some place in North Atlanta. He did it all over the phone, and used his
visa
card for the deposit. The truck was still on the train from Mexico, when
unloaded he went and got it. BTW, we shopped a country Dodge dealer in
Millegeville the summer before and he had no problem with that deal when I
proposed it.

Also, when I wanted to order a Mustang years ago, I ordered it from
Arkansas
to be delivered here. Lower price on a model that at the time was scarce.
But then living where I do, most everything is mail order ;>) gets to be
a
way of life and thinking!
>
>
>Dave, you're probably right overall. It's great to have a little
>knowledge
>beforehand to leverage your bargaining power. But where I am we have a
>little different situation with country dealers vs. the big city boys. We
>have the large city dealers where you would expect that they sell more
>vehicles therefore they should be able to get a little break on their
>pricing. But the opposite is true. The large dealers 'in town' seem to
>have
>plenty of customers (probably due to the University of Ga.) and they have
>a
>take-it-or-leave-it attitude on their prices. They also have a larger
>overhead than the dealers located just twenty miles away in the small
>town.
>
>Pat
>pharrell bae.uga.edu
>
>offer the dealer $150 or $200 over wholesale invoice. Unless he is a
>country
>dealer (no offense) who sells one truck a month ......he'll sell it to
>you
>

- ----------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 07:07:57 -0400
From: "Robert Leifer"
To:
Subject: 97 Ranger Mileage
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I just got a new 97 Ranger short bed, regular cab PU with the 3.0 V6
engine. I only have 350 miles on it so far, but the gas mileage it is
getting seems A LITTLE POOR to me! In mixed driving, mostly street traffic
to and from work, it is getting about 14.5 miles to the gallon at best.
Does
anybody else have any experience with this model with the 3 engine? I have
been using the AC, and understand that it will eat up some, but I had an
'86
merc sable with the 3.0 V6, and it got 17 in the streets, ans 30 on the
highway (It was a little more streamlined than the Ranger, of course). Any
and all info appreciated. This is my first posting, and I apologize if it
goes to the wrong place (I did read the FAQ, however).

Thanks,

Bob Leifer

- ----------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 09:21:34 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 97 Ranger Mileage
Message-ID:

On Fri, 1 Aug 1997 07:07:57 -0400 "Robert Leifer"
writes:
> I just got a new 97 Ranger short bed, regular cab PU with the 3.0 V6
>engine. I only have 350 miles on it so far, but the gas mileage it is
>getting seems A LITTLE POOR to me! In mixed driving, mostly street
>traffic



How fast are you going? Are you sure you are dividing 15 and not 20? The
regular cabs only have 15 gallon tanks.

- ----------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Aug 1997 09:21:34 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
To: fordnatics lists.best.com
Cc: DalCorral deltos.com, fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: 5.0 Headers
Message-ID:

I want to replace the stock headers on my 95 2.3L. My first question is
does anyone know of a company that sells headers for a 2.3L. and if not,
is the bolt pattern the same from a 5.0 so I could put half the set on. I
have already compared them with a pair of stock 5.0 headers with 2.3L,
but cant really tell if it is the same or not.


.---. .-----------
/ \ __ / ------
/ / \(..)/ -----
////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordManTed.com (Mustang Shop)
//// / // : : --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site)
// / / /` '--
// //..\
=======UU====UU===[silent.bob juno.com]=[95 Ranger XLT 2.3L]=
'//||\`
''``

- ----------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Aug 1997 09:53:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: PhilDyson aol.com
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 86 F-150 C-6 tranny
Message-ID:

In a message dated 97-08-01 08:24:25 EDT, you write:

>Roger Fletcher wrote:
>>
>> My 86 F-150 302 with C-6 has a sick tranny. It drags and heats, got it
>> hot enough towing a trailer to blow out front seal. I have decided to
>> get brave and overhaul it myself with a friend to help and give us both
>> someone to blame if things don't go well. I have a kit and manual
>> published by a outfit called Automatic Transmission Service Group which
>> makes it look real complicated. Any advice you can give me on the job
>> would be appreciated. I've got money invested in the kit, so please
>> don't advise me to go to a shop.

DAVID WROTE

>DON'T WORRY IT'S NOT THAT TOUGH A JOB.
>
> I am no automatic transmission mechanic and have rebuilt about 5
>transmissions over the years including the Ford C6, they have all worked
>great.
> Get yourself a lot of cardboard boxes and ziplock freezer bags. Number
>and or label the boxes and bags as you slowly take apart the
>transmission. Be sure to put each bearing, ( copper colored looking
>thrust washers really) in a different numbered bag so you get them back
>in the right place. Use the boxes for the different sub assemblies, and
>only work on one of the sub assemblies at a time. Keep everything as
>clean as possible and do not throw any of the old rubber seals away
>until you have compared it to the new seal, a lot of them might look the
>same if you don't have the old one to compare it to.
> Do not take the valve body apart without a very good diagram showing
>where all the springs and balls go. And when you do take it apart do
>one valve at a time. Cleaning all the parts for that valve and putting
>it back together before taking the next valve and springs apart.
> All in all its no harder then over hauling a carburetor, and I assume
>you have done that before??

I agree with David that it is not that hard but it does require some
special
tools that you may not have on hand. The Haynes manual on Ford
Transmissions
is excellent and has very good pictures. You may not need all the tools
but
you will find that out as you go along. The hard parts for me were:
1. Getting all those balls, springs, and pucks to stay in place while I
put
the valve body back together. I used petrolium jelly to kinda glue them
down, it melts at low temps. Don't use bearing grease.
2. Getting the pistons apart to chance the seals, some of those retaining
rings are real mutha's. Then geting them back together without destroying
the new seal on the splines.
put someting over the splines like a rubber or plastic cap. Make sure the
seals fit perfect or you will have problems.
3. Be prepared to bath in fluid. No matter how well you drain it, it will
still pour out on the bench.
4. You must be clean. After you drain and pull it, take it to the car
wash
and blast the dirt off.
5. Count your clutch discs, sometimes the kit has one or two more than are
actually installed in your tranny. You put them all in and you cant get
the
snap ring back on.
6. Measure the depth of the bearings before you pull them.
7. That damn one way clutch!
I'm about to rebuild and modify two C-6's, an early model for a ford FE and
a
late model for a 351W. I think I'd rather rebuild a carb! :o)
Good luck to us both!
Phil

- ----------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 May 1997 12:44:54 -0700
From: Captain Nemo
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: 5.0 Headers
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

> I want to replace the stock headers on my 95 2.3L. My first question
> is
> does anyone know of a company that sells headers for a 2.3L. and if
> not,
> is the bolt pattern the same from a 5.0 so I could put half the set
> on. I
> have already compared them with a pair of stock 5.0 headers with 2.3L,
>
> but cant really tell if it is the same or not.

Hey, Silent.Bob...

I dunno about the 5.0 headers. I want to replace the exhaust manifolds....


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