utalk.org (Lamar Zabielski) ]"> utalk.org (Lamar Zabielski) ]"> Re:86-- 6.9L Diesel, F250 e [zeb<img src="http://images.ford-trucks.com/clipart/at.gif" border=0 width=9 height=10 valign=bottom>utalk.org (Lamar Zabielski) ]
 

------------------------------

Content-Type: text/plain

fordtrucks80up-digest Digest Volume 97 : Issue 30

Today's Topics:

Re: RV cams for 4WD ["J. Martin"
Re: synchronizer [tgstoner umich.edu ]
RV cams for 4WD(and free software) [pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Re]
Re: synchronizer [Gardner ]
Re: synchronizer [Gardner ]
Mail Delivery Problems... [Ken Payne ]
Re: Unsubscribe form [Ken Payne ]
RE: 88Ranger ["DAVID MUMMERY"
Re: RV cams for 4WD(and free softwar [JIM HURD ]
killing battery problem [Ben Markert
Re: killing battery problem ["J. Martin"
Subject: Re:86-- 6.9L Diesel, F250 e [zeb utalk.org (Lamar Zabielski) ]
Re: killing battery problem [gpierce web2000.net ]
Re: killing battery problem [Ben Markert
RV Cams and sech stuff ["J. Martin"

Administrivia:

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____________________________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Mar 1996 14:24:40 -0800
From: "J. Martin"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: RV cams for 4WD
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Wow, Patrick!

I don't know what kind of cam you got there...RV/Tow cams are LOW REV
cams. They're made to maximize torque, to get the heavier rigs moving--
and to help keep them moving, efficiently. 7mpg is ABSOLUTELY
unacceptable...I would expect better performance (Mileage) from a "hi
perf" cam. There are a couple of things that can cause your
mileage/performance to take a nose dive, like that.

CAM PHASING. Is the cam correctly aligned, with respect to the crank?
It's definately not an unheard of problem...

IGNITION. I would guess you've already checked that one out...

VALVE SEATING/LASH. If you aren't getting good compression, you aren't
going to get any power. Are your valves seating/sealing properly? You
can tell by giving ALL the cylinders a pressure test. You can buy (if
you don't already have one) a compression gauge that screws into the
spark plug hole. It's really important to test every cylinder, as anal
as it is...

How does your exhaust smell? Is it rich? You are sure you have NO vacuum
leaks? Easy way to check for vacuum leaks is to take a can of WD-40, or
carb cleaner, and spray around the base of the carb, where the
head/intake meet, etc.
It's VERY odd, that you are having such an awful experience. It's almost
unbelievable ...but hey, i can't see anything, I don't know what you've
done, seen, checked, etc. It seems that you are pretty sure it's the
cam.

Sorry if it is redundant to the last msg you sent, but I never heard
about what you had checked out.

Let us know what you find/have found..
Hope it gets resolved soon, and simply, bud...

Josh '88 FDR


> probably from idle to around 3500 max. Changing gearing is out of the
> question, too expensive for 4WD, and I'm not running monster tires
> (265x15). Surely I can get back to my 16-17 mpg, cause this 7mpg is
> killing me! Any recommendations?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 16:31:23 -0400
From: tgstoner umich.edu
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: synchronizer
Message-ID:
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Gardner wrote:
> I have a 94 Ranger 4 cyl. 5 spd. . . . Met the guy who had owned it...he
had pulled a 40 foot boat
> with it! IDIOT! . . .

**********************************
More like crazy! Both my '92 and '94 Ranger leases were the 2.3 / 5-speed
combination and they didn't have enough power to maintain 65 or 70 on a
gentle uphill run into a headwind. And that would hold true even if the
truck was not loaded and not towing my little fishing boat (13-foot Boston
Whaler, with a 40 Yamaha). Even my '96 with the 3.0 / 5-speed combination
requires downshifting when towing this little boat up most hills (although
it is a SuperCab version and therefore quite a bit heavier than my previous
two). Anyway, I can't imagine safely using a Ranger with the 2.3 engine to
tow a 40 foot boat anywhere but maybe a short distance across a level
parking lot. Was this with the standard bumper hitch?!?

Now, as a three time owner of recent 5-speed Rangers, I'm not at all
surprised that your synchronizers might be bad. I only put about 14,000
miles on each of my first two and only have a little more than 18,000 on
the '96 now, but they've all had shifting problems which I've believed to
be caused by bad synchros. Since I've not had the problems repaired on any
of them though (just double clutch it and you don't need synchros), so I'm
afraid that I can't provide answers to any of your questions.

Tom Stoner
Ann Arbor, MI
tgstoner umich.edu
1996 Ranger XLT SuperCab
1996 Taurus XL

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 97 16:34:33 EDT
From: pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Research Fabrication)
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RV cams for 4WD(and free software)
Message-Id:

Sorry for the length of this post, but some of you are really trying to be
helpful, and I needed to put in some of the information.

Josh said:
-----------------------
>I don't know what kind of cam you got there...RV/Tow cams are LOW REV
>cams. They're made to maximize torque, to get the heavier rigs moving--
>and to help keep them moving, efficiently. 7mpg is ABSOLUTELY
>unacceptable...I would expect better performance (Mileage) from a "hi
>perf" cam. There are a couple of things that can cause your
>mileage/performance to take a nose dive, like that.
------------------------
I've checked compression, it's 130 psi on every cylinder. I installed the
cam dot to dot at #1 TDC. I'm getting around 18" of manifold vacuum at
idle.


Specs on RV cam installed
Part number Melling MTF-5 or 24105
Duration 0.50" Int:204 degree Exhaust:214 degree
SAE Duration Int:280 Exhaust:290
Cam Lift 280 295
Valve Lift 448 472
Centerline 107 117
Timing Events (Specs 0.50")
Intake opens 5 degrees ATC. Intake closes 29 ABC.
Exhaust opens 44 degrees BBC. Exhaust closes 10 BTC.

My Ford shop manual says stock cam lobe lift: Intake .2375 Exhaust .247
Summit catalog shows a Motorsport cam with same lift and duration as the
Melling (RV) cam above, and says it "builds performance in the 2500-5500
rpm range". My 1980 Bronco 302 with 3.08:1 gearing never even sees much
above 2500 rpm.

By the way,I downloaded a free camshaft selection program from Competition
Cams website called CamQuest. Check it out.
After having to change my config.sys files= section (there is a section on
their website on what you might have to do to get it running) I input my
truck specs and it selected a cam. Get this. At the end it said:

"GEARING: Based on the gear and tire info that you inputted for your
vehicle, CamQuest has calculated that your combination has numerically too
little gear for use with this cam. This will result in POOR LOW END
PERFORMANCE. Try using a larger gear ratio, or smaller tire diameter."
I even requested an OEM cam with stock (235x15) tires and got the SAME
message!

Josh, you or Jim (or anybody else) got any ideas other than changing
gearing on my 4wd? It looks like my truck could be geared too high to even
use an RV camshaft. That just doesn't make any sense to me.

Still scratching my head,
Pat
pharrell bae.uga.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 18:16:22 -0500
From: Gardner
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: synchronizer
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

tgstoner umich.edu wrote:
>
> Gardner wrote:
> > I have a 94 Ranger 4 cyl. 5 spd. . . . Met the guy who had owned it...he
> had pulled a 40 foot boat
> > with it! IDIOT! . . .
>
> **********************************
> More like crazy! Both my '92 and '94 Ranger leases were the 2.3 / 5-speed
> combination and they didn't have enough power to maintain 65 or 70 on a
> gentle uphill run into a headwind. And that would hold true even if the
> truck was not loaded and not towing my little fishing boat (13-foot Boston
> Whaler, with a 40 Yamaha). Even my '96 with the 3.0 / 5-speed combination
> requires downshifting when towing this little boat up most hills (although
> it is a SuperCab version and therefore quite a bit heavier than my previous
> two). Anyway, I can't imagine safely using a Ranger with the 2.3 engine to
> tow a 40 foot boat anywhere but maybe a short distance across a level
> parking lot. Was this with the standard bumper hitch?!?
>
> Now, as a three time owner of recent 5-speed Rangers, I'm not at all
> surprised that your synchronizers might be bad. I only put about 14,000
> miles on each of my first two and only have a little more than 18,000 on
> the '96 now, but they've all had shifting problems which I've believed to
> be caused by bad synchros. Since I've not had the problems repaired on any
> of them though (just double clutch it and you don't need synchros), so I'm
> afraid that I can't provide answers to any of your questions.
>
> Tom Stoner
> Ann Arbor, MI
> tgstoner umich.edu
> 1996 Ranger XLT SuperCab
> 1996 Taurus XL
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.com


thanks for the info..I think it was more like a 35 foot...but who
counting still DUMB! Power mine feels great have 3.73 gears with locking
differential! I reall ythink it has more to do with a bad transmission
than the boat. I had 3rd gear fixed at 35,000 haven't had any problems
till now...I tow NOTHING and I haul NOTHING, and really take care of
this truck..I just think this trans is JUNK! I now have 59,000 miles. I
wrote Ford about it but have'nt heard anything...went to look at other
transportation maybe trade it in. May switch over to 5.0 and just
replace everything...should not have to do this though it is only 3
years old! Anyway THANKS!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 18:18:39 -0500
From: Gardner
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: synchronizer
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

tgstoner umich.edu wrote:
>
> Gardner wrote:
> > I have a 94 Ranger 4 cyl. 5 spd. . . . Met the guy who had owned it...he
> had pulled a 40 foot boat
> > with it! IDIOT! . . .
>
> **********************************
> More like crazy! Both my '92 and '94 Ranger leases were the 2.3 / 5-speed
> combination and they didn't have enough power to maintain 65 or 70 on a
> gentle uphill run into a headwind. And that would hold true even if the
> truck was not loaded and not towing my little fishing boat (13-foot Boston
> Whaler, with a 40 Yamaha). Even my '96 with the 3.0 / 5-speed combination
> requires downshifting when towing this little boat up most hills (although
> it is a SuperCab version and therefore quite a bit heavier than my previous
> two). Anyway, I can't imagine safely using a Ranger with the 2.3 engine to
> tow a 40 foot boat anywhere but maybe a short distance across a level
> parking lot. Was this with the standard bumper hitch?!?
>
> Now, as a three time owner of recent 5-speed Rangers, I'm not at all
> surprised that your synchronizers might be bad. I only put about 14,000
> miles on each of my first two and only have a little more than 18,000 on
> the '96 now, but they've all had shifting problems which I've believed to
> be caused by bad synchros. Since I've not had the problems repaired on any
> of them though (just double clutch it and you don't need synchros), so I'm
> afraid that I can't provide answers to any of your questions.
>
> Tom Stoner
> Ann Arbor, MI
> tgstoner umich.edu
> 1996 Ranger XLT SuperCab
> 1996 Taurus XL
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Message distributed via http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
> For help send subject "HELP" to:fordtrucks80up-request lofcom.com
> Comments and suggestions are welcome, use: kpayne mindspring.comSorry forgot not a standrad hitch is was a frame hitch by hidden hitch!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 20:39:05 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Mail Delivery Problems...
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

This message is from L.O.F. Communications, our list provider. Please
read it if you have any questions about list mail from the past couple
of days.
-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

>Afternoon!
>
> There have been some questions about problems with mail delivery this
>week, including but not limited to blank messages being delivered to some
>users, messages arriving out-of-order (showing up on digest lists before
>the interactive ones), etc. We now know the reason for these problems.
>
> We got hit with a series of spam attacks on the SMTP server starting
>late Monday night, and continuing sporatically through last night.
>Apparently someone decided it would be a great idea to send mail to
>_hundreds of thousands_ of AOL accounts through our server. And since the
>envelope information was forged, attempts to send non-delivery messages to
>the non-existant account/domain got queued as well, adding to the problem.
>"Real" list mail had to jockey for space with all the junk email.
>
> The net result was a sendmail queue listing over NINE MB IN SIZE.
>(Notice that this is _only_ the queue list, not the messages themselves. I
>don't even want to _talk_ about how much room they took.)
>
> Because of all the space devoted to these spam messages, there are still
>a few messages from Monday-on that have not been delivered - most were
>delivered last night after the offending junk was purged, but a couple
>remain. Also, because the device was full of the offender's crap, some
>older messages were truncated to 0 bytes, which caused the empty messages
>that were delivered to some users. Because of timing and intelligent
>queuing, for damaged messages some people got them complete, others
>(particularly AOL users) received empty messages.
>
> The immediate problem is pretty much resolved, and I'm working with our
>upstream provider to see if we can keep this from happening again. We pared
>the queue down by purging many of the trash messages (we're down to ~500K
>in the queue listing, which is _much_ more managable!). To add insult to
>injury, AOL has been sporatically refusing connections from our machine.
>(Gee...wonder why?)
>
> The current working assumption is that this was done as a retaliation
>for our anti-spam stance. We've got a number of "confirmed kills," email
>accounts revoked because of spamming, so it is quite possible one of these
>spammers is responsible. We will prosecute if we can asertain who is
>responsible. (If they are within driving distance, I might just go punch
>someone in the snoot.)
>
> I should have twigged to this earlier than I did, and for that I must
>apologize. Know that we are doing everything possible to not only clean
>this mess up, but to see that this nonsense doesn't happen again.
>
> Charlie
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> L.O.F. Communications charlie lofcom.com
> Check Out Charlie's News Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/news/
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lofcom.com/
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 20:48:31 -0400
From: Ken Payne
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Cc: Chip256 aol.com
Subject: Re: Unsubscribe form
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 12:07 AM 6/27/97 -0400, you wrote:
>How do I unsubscribe ?

Go to our homepage, http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/site/fordtrucks
and follow the "join or leave" link. From there, click on
the unsubscribe link, then fill out the unsubscribe form
and submit it.

-Ken
1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
List Maintainer, send comments or suggestions to: kpayne mindspring.com
Visit our web site (subscribe/unsubscribe forms are there):
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Jun 97 01:11:53 UT
From: "DAVID MUMMERY"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RE: 88Ranger
Message-Id:

For all of you intrested you can have a lot of fun with the 2.3L in your truck
now. Anything is possible if you have the drive and cash. It will cost about
the same as building a 5.0L without all the conversion hassels. Just some
ideas, a cam and turbo. New heads from Ford Motorsports that will raise your
compression and change the configuration around ie. move the valves and move
the sparkplug. On the idea of valves if you do not want a new head do some
work on the old one. IF you word ideas on this or dropping in a small block
drop me a line at mobiledave men.com . Send it to Scott.
Any way on the subject of dropping in a 5.0L it takes about a days worth of
time. IF you can find someone around that has done it chew their ear for
awhile. Or if you are anywhere around Gurnee Il area give Ray Dixion at Dixion
auto. I do not have his phone number on hand if you want it let me know. He is
the old time racer. Does all his work himself. He Drives a 83ish Ranger w/ a
5.0L. So he knows what he is talking about. He does all my shop work. Give him
a call.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 23:03:51 -0500 (EST)
From: JIM HURD
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: RV cams for 4WD(and free software)
Message-id:
Content-type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT

Patrick,
Sounds like you have the exact same cam as I do. And my truck is geared
even longer than yours is.
18" of vacuum sounds about right. where do you have your timing set?
What does your advance curve look like? Edelbrock reccomends initial at
10-14 degrees with a total of 34-36 degrees, all in by 2600-2800 rpm. (I
think that is a little to aggresive, but then I upped my compression to
9.0:1).
I would check to see that you have the vacuum advance hooked up
correctly and that the vacuum advance can is holding a vacuum. And I
would crank in as much vacuum advance as you can with out pinging.
(Most of the vacuum advance cans are adjustable by inserting an allen
wrench into the connection where the vacuum hose connects.)
I would also pull the power valve from the carb and test it with
a mighty-might vacuum pump. My power valve ruptured and I replaced it with
a power valve from Pep Boys, and my mileage dropped into the 16-17 mpg
range. I went to Ford and got the correct *two-stage* power valve with
the correct gasket and mileage went right back up where it used to be.
How do your plugs look? (Looking for a rich or lean indication.) And
how does the inside of your tailpipe appear? (Black fluffy carbon would
indicate a rich condition, pointing toward the carb/power valve.)

Keep us posted on your findings.....

Jim in Central NY
'79 F-150 (302!)
'92 Topaz (3.0l)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 19:51:36 -0800
From: Ben Markert
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: killing battery problem
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hello all, I have a major problem that I need some help with. I know
someone on this list could hele me with it. Here goes: My 82 F-250 (not the
one I'm restoring but my daily driver) has a chronic battery killing
problem. I have replaced the battery, solenoid and even the voltage
regulator, but to no avail, it still kills every battery I put in the
thing. I was trying to jump it earlier today and was using my parents
Aerostar, and every time I would try to start my truck it would dim the
backlight of the digital dash in the van and my truck would only click.
After about ten minutes of trying to jump unsuccesfully, the jumper cables
were hot enough to burn when touched. I finally stopped because I didn't
want to ruin my cables. Anybody have any ideas on why this thing kills
batteries and wont even start when being jumped?

Ben
============================================================================
The ULTIMATE Duke Nukem 3D: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5290
The Xena Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Hills/2050

Ben Markert
Lord Radu Lykan, The Collector
"If it makes you feel good, do it!"

"Power is absolute. Power is corrupting.
Absolute power corrupts absolutely."

"Act. Don't react." - Xena

"What a wonderful thing Humanity is. Passoinate, intelligent, noble of spirit
and above all.....Delicious." - LaCroix

PROUD Ford owner: 1982 F-250 300 I-6 4on the floor, name: Lila.
E-Mail:timberwolf deathsdoor.com, ze-wolf geocities.com,
radulykan geocities.com
============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 00:08:00 -0800
From: "J. Martin"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: killing battery problem
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Well, lesse...
Could there be a short, in the cable going from the solenoid to the
starter? On my car (don't ask what brand!!), I wasn't killing batteries,
but i noticed that my headlights would get REALLY bright for a second,
and then go back to normal. This came from the starter cable (that goes
from the battery to the starter solenoid) rubbing up against the exhaust
manifold--it had melted through. I replaced it, and it never happened
again, and, needless to say, started easier when hot!
IF the cables were THAT hot, I'd suspect you had a major short
somewhere...but if it happens even without starting the car, the short
is most probably not in the solenoid-to-starter cable. It lies somewhere
else. Look for the heavy gauge wires--from the alternator, to the fuse
block, etc. If it was really that hot, you should be SMELLING that
short, too!! ;)
Shorting the battery will kill it, eventually...they can only take so
many complete discharges. Sounds like you have a bad short, or shunt to
the neg somewhere. Use your hands, but be careful, you don't want to
burn yourself. You can trace the wiring harness for hot wires (by feel).
Or, better, yet, you can get some of that heat sensitive
paper/material...but you probably wont, HAHA, i wouldn't either...

Just some thoughts,

Josh '88 FDR

> want to ruin my cables. Anybody have any ideas on why this thing kills
> batteries and wont even start when being jumped?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 23:38:31 -0600 (MDT)
From: zeb utalk.org (Lamar Zabielski)
To: Husk77 aol.com
Cc: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Subject: Re:86-- 6.9L Diesel, F250 extended cab
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Husker,

Have ya tried keeping your foot off the gas pedal when starting?

That's been a tip told to me here.

Zeb

Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 20:57:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Husk77 aol.com
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re:86-- 6.9L Diesel, F250 extended cab
Message-ID:

I would appreciate any help I can get. I'm having a problem with losing the
prime on my diesel. Then I have to crank it forever to start it. The problem
has been with the vehicle since it was new but recently it has gotten much
worse. Also, I'm looking for a emmissions diagnosis manual. Does anyone know
where I can get one? Are there any mail order houses that deal in partfor
this truck?
Any help would be appreciated.

The Husker

- ----------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Jun 1997 09:11:16 -0400
From: gpierce web2000.net
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: killing battery problem
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ben

Heeeeer go's
1) were youjust trying to charge the battery when the cables got hot or
were you attempting to start the vehicle.

Not starting : check the batt. for shorted cell should have dame near
exploded with that type of short.

Starting : check for shorted B+ lead to starter for shorts to frame or
engine, check starter it could have a shorted starter windings that
would allow the starter to spin but eat all your power. If you have a
spair starter in you pocket install it then try.

2). What condition are your jumper cables in??

Bad connections between the wire and the clips can cause the wire to
heat up while pulling a load. Hence all your current is lost heating a
wire instead of going to start the truck. ( acts like a large resistor )

Also most jumper cables do not have enough wire gauge to start a
completly dead battery. They are ment to assist in in the starting
process for a weak battery. Try doubling up cables to get enough
current. ONLY AFTER YOU CHECK FOR A SHORT...

In closing you could be fighting more than one problem, you could have
an accessory thats draining your battery to nothing and you just don't
have enough current to start a dead battery Or you could be fighting a
bad starter. Try the few items mentioned first and if still no success
write us back and we'll keep going.

G. E. Pierce.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Jun 1997 05:51:56 -0800
From: Ben Markert
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: Re: killing battery problem
Message-Id:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

At 09:11 AM 6/28/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Check our new domain names!
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.netforward.com
>v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v^v
>
>Ben
>
>Heeeeer go's
> 1) were youjust trying to charge the battery when the cables got hot or
>were you attempting to start the vehicle.
>
Trying to start it.
>
>Not starting : check the batt. for shorted cell should have dame near
>exploded with that type of short.
>
Could this be in a new battery? Cause it went dead and we had disconnected
it from the circuit.
>
>Starting : check for shorted B+ lead to starter for shorts to frame or
>engine, check starter it could have a shorted starter windings that
>would allow the starter to spin but eat all your power. If you have a
>spair starter in you pocket install it then try.
>
Trying that today.
>
>2). What condition are your jumper cables in??
>
New, bout half amonth old.
>
>Bad connections between the wire and the clips can cause the wire to
>heat up while pulling a load. Hence all your current is lost heating a
>wire instead of going to start the truck. ( acts like a large resistor )
>
>Also most jumper cables do not have enough wire gauge to start a
>completly dead battery. They are ment to assist in in the starting
>process for a weak battery. Try doubling up cables to get enough
>current. ONLY AFTER YOU CHECK FOR A SHORT...
>
>In closing you could be fighting more than one problem, you could have
>an accessory thats draining your battery to nothing and you just don't
>have enough current to start a dead battery Or you could be fighting a
>bad starter. Try the few items mentioned first and if still no success
>write us back and we'll keep going.
>
Will do, thanks for your help.
>
>G. E. Pierce.
>

Ben
============================================================================
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Ben Markert
Lord Radu Lykan, The Collector
"If it makes you feel good, do it!"

"Power is absolute. Power is corrupting.
Absolute power corrupts absolutely."

"Act. Don't react." - Xena

"What a wonderful thing Humanity is. Passoinate, intelligent, noble of spirit
and above all.....Delicious." - LaCroix

PROUD Ford owner: 1982 F-250 300 I-6 4on the floor, name: Lila.
E-Mail:timberwolf deathsdoor.com, ze-wolf geocities.com,
radulykan geocities.com
============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Mar 1996 11:28:13 -0800
From: "J. Martin"
To: fordtrucks80up lofcom.com
Subject: RV Cams and sech stuff
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey Patrick,

Hmm...130psi, eh? That sounds kinda low, but I'm not sure what your is
supposed to be. Maybe with your 8.5:1 setup (?) that's right. BUT, it
should make GOOD POWER with that, even. GEEZ, if the compression is
good, there should be NO reason why the power sucks, other than
Ignition, or something in the Induction. 18", eh? That sounds great too.....


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