fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, February 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 043



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

3.0 4x4 Gas Milage [John Cassis ]
brake cylinder [Christopher Smith ]
Re: brake cylinder [Chad Royse ]
FlagBaggin intake bolts.... [David McDonald ]
'80 F-250 [Bob Johnson ]
Kelley Blue Book - 1999 Ford Trucks [Jeff Schapker ]
Re: Radio/CB Buzzing ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Re: Bronco II 4x4 Question [INGENERATE aol.com]
Re: Bronco II 4x4 Question [Jake ]
80 F150 [John Cassis ]
Re: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk ["David J. Baldwin" ]
93' F150 [John Cassis ]
RE: brake cylinder [Mike Marcum ]
Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts.... [bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)]
Fw: DLC/STI hiding place ["jccooper" ]
Trailer Wiring and Transmission Cooler [Jim Clementz ]
RE: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk ["Posluszny, Walt (posl)" ]
Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts.... [David McDonald ]
Re: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk [David McDonald ]
Re: 3.0 4x4 Gas Milage [JBien45204 aol.com]
Re: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk ["David J. Baldwin" ]
ADMIN: 1997+ list is up [Ken Payne ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 10:54:23 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: 3.0 4x4 Gas Milage

Ron,

I have a 93' 4x4 with the 3.0. Befor I added a Superlift 2 1/2" lift to =
the front (to make the front set level with the back) and put 31" tall =
tires on I got as good as 22 mph on the highway and 18-19 in town. When =
I added the lift and larger tires this dropped to about 20-21 mph on the =
highway and 17-18 mph in town. Then I added a Raven truck top and this =
killed my mph. Now I get 15-16 in town and aabout 18 on the highway. =
This is with the manual tranny. As discussed previosly here the truck =
top you added causes drag on the back of the truck and this kills you =
milage. You would'nt think it would but as explained to me here its like =
it creates a suction on the back of the truck thus creating worse gas =
milage. The mph I'm giving you are from living in Houston, Texas - =
totaly flat no hills. When I tow my boat to the hill country in Austin I =
only get about 11 or 12 going and at best 14mph coming home. So if you =
live in around mountains or hills I can see how your milage could even =
be worse. Anyway sorry I was so long winded but I hope this helps.

John Cassis
The Danger Ranger
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 08:55:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Christopher Smith
Subject: brake cylinder

I have an 85 F250 4x4. It has recently started leaking brake fluid from
somewhere in the rear drivers side. You can see where it has been leaking
out from inside the drum. Call me stupid but i have never had a break
cylinder apart. Any suggestions on where the fluid is leaking from. Just
thought i would check before tearing into it. Also lately when i apply
the brakes the rearend hops up and down a little. Is theis caused by the
break fluid on the drum and shoes. Any comments would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks.
Chris Smith
West Lafayette, IN

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 09:22:08 -0800
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: brake cylinder

It cold be the line right next to the cylinder or the cylinder itslef. I
would locate the culprit and just replace it. Cylinders aren't that
expensive. I would fix that and see where that got you with hopping. Of
course be sure to clean everything with brake cleaner. Good luck!!

Christopher Smith wrote:

> I have an 85 F250 4x4. It has recently started leaking brake fluid from
> somewhere in the rear drivers side. You can see where it has been leaking
> out from inside the drum. Call me stupid but i have never had a break
> cylinder apart. Any suggestions on where the fluid is leaking from. Just
> thought i would check before tearing into it. Also lately when i apply
> the brakes the rearend hops up and down a little. Is theis caused by the
> break fluid on the drum and shoes. Any comments would be greatly
> appreciated. Thanks.
> Chris Smith
> West Lafayette, IN
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 09:50:43 -0800
From: David McDonald
Subject: FlagBaggin intake bolts....

Hiya all,

I'm hopin someone out there can help me out... I have an oil leak on
my '90 F250HD with a 351. I'm installing some mods (K&N, Gibson cat back
and a n MSD 6a) and figured that I's tear into it to fix the leak. I
found the leak on the passenger side valve cover, so I need to replace
the gasket, which means the intake manifold needs to come off. I tried,
and I'm no contortionist... How in this big blue world can you get those
back two bolts off the intake manifold without a socket extention that
resembles a slinky?


About to pull the freakin engine for an oil leak,

Dave McDonald
dxmcdon uswest.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:45:46 -0600
From: Bob Johnson
Subject: '80 F-250

Hi All! I'm a long time lurker and first time poster, so I hope I'm doing
this right. BTW - my thanks to Ken and his wife for all they've done, and to
ya'll for the great info - I've read all the archives and all the posts
since I've subscribed, and have learned a lot.

My questions: (1) I've purchased an '80 F-250 SC LB 2x4, 3-on-the-tree. The
shifter is shot, and I've located a column/shifter off a '79 (from a fellow
F-T-E subscriber) but have not actually seen it yet. Will it fit/work? Any
problems I should be aware of?

(2) I've considered going with a floor shifter. Any thoughts, pro or con?

(3) I also have a granny 4-speed. Anyone got an opinion about mating it to
the 300 I-6 in there? This will be a daily driver and will never have to
work too hard.

(4) Anyone got any experience with the Offenhauser intake, Holley 390 or
other small 4-bbl, or the headers I've seen advertised in JC Whitney?

(5) In one of the early archives, I saw a reference to a (west coast, I
think) company called 6=8. Made performance parts for the I-6's. I have not
been able to find them. Anyone know who and where they are?

(6) Just out of curiosity: my '80 has the plain egg-crate grill, with
F-O-R-D across the hood. I've seen other like it, but most (even some '80's,
I think) have the blue oval molded into the center of the grill and nothing
on the hood. Anyone know when Ford changed the styling?

(7) Curiosity again: I think Ranger and Explorer were model/trim level
designators (like "Custom," "Lariat," "XLT," etc.) before they were
vehicles. What were they and when were they made? I've also seen "Texas
Ranger" badges (on trucks, not cops, mind you) and at least one other "Texas
something" badge on F-series - were these genuine Ford models/trim levels,
or local dealer inventions. Any other info available on them?

Thanks in advance.

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 12:19:20 -0800
From: Jeff Schapker
Subject: Kelley Blue Book - 1999 Ford Trucks

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Kelley now has updated prices on 1999 Ford Super Duty Trucks.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kbb.com/index.html

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- --------------BAD7010914539011B4313BD6--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 12:26:27 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: Radio/CB Buzzing

Casey Vandor wrote:

> Me again, I turned the treble all the way up to make the buzzing the
> loudest, and I can notice a definite change of pitch when rpm's
> increase or decrease. A few people mentioned the alternator as the
> source. Is my only option to repalce the alternator? What can be
> done to eleiminate the noise from the alternator? ThanksCasey

Casey,

How's your radio buzzing going? Have you had any luck?

Here's an idea you might try to find if the interference is coming from
the ignition spark events or the wiring harness:

If you have a spare 12V battery (you don't need too much of one), try
wiring the power leads of the radio to the separate battery (disconnect
from the vehicle wiring harness, of course, to isolate the unit from the
vehicle system) and start the car. If you are getting radiated
interference from ignition, you will still hear the noise. If you do,
install new supressor-type plug wires.

If the radio is quiet with the motor running, then you have noise being
introduced to the wiring harness. Only two things come to mind that are
likely to be causing the noise are: (1) Alternator, and (2) Ignition
(primary side that charges the coil).

These two systems both create fluctuations in supply current to/from the
battery. If the wiring harness and battery cables have degraded, the
changes in current in these systems will create a voltage signal on the
ignition and ground lines in the harness, and you will hear this if the
voltage fluctuations become too great.

I would do these things:
(1) Check the battery cables and connections. Clean all points of
contact. Recheck for audio noise.
(2) If cables are old >10 years, just replace them--they're cheap.
Recheck for audio noise.
(3) Load test your battery. If it is >4 years old, it may be weak and
in need of replacement. This may also help you avoid becoming stranded
in the near future. A weak battery can have a higher internal
resistance, making changes in load current show up as changes in voltage
in the system that you can hear. If you get another battery, recheck for
audio noise.
(4) Try the isolated battery trick that I mentioned above. DON'T DRIVE
WITH AN UNSECURE BATTERY IN THE CAR!! Just start the vehicle and check
noise levels.
(5) If the isolated battery works, but nothing else does, you should
consider direct lines to the battery. If you do this, be sure to route
the wires away from the existing harness (where noise could be coupled
in), and make sure that you place an in-line fuse in the line from the
positive battery terminal.

The alternator COULD be bad, but it would likely be overcharging the
battery and you would probably see evidence of the battery boiling over
by now. If you have a handheld voltmeter (they're cheap, if you want to
buy one--they can help diagnose these problems) measure the voltage
across the battery with and without the truck running. The battery
should read about 14 volts. I believe that the battery has a negative
voltage coefficient (means it's higher at lower temperature), so if you
live in Athabasca or something, you might see something higher (maybe
15V? Just a guess). The alternator NORMALLY will produce voltage
interference when wiring and connections are poor. So does the ignition
system. I would look for poor connections first, although it couldn't
hurt to have the alternator tested, either.

For the CB radio problems that another list member posted: CB radios are
VERY sensitive to spark ignition which broadcasts RF noise. Since a CB
is a radio receiver, it will pick this up. Make sure you are using
suppressor plug wires. All of the above applies to you, too.

Enough rambling for now. Good luck, and keep us posted.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 12:55:23 EST
From: INGENERATE aol.com
Subject: Re: Bronco II 4x4 Question

The clicking you are experiencing sounds like the speedo gears/cable?
Eric

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 12:32:01 +0000
From: Jake
Subject: Re: Bronco II 4x4 Question

Your front u joint is going. That would make the clicking noise and the
loud noise when you turn

Jake

Vince Vella wrote:

> I was wondering if anyone out there could help me out.
> I have an '89 Bronco II 4x4 with manual locking hubs. Everytime I start
> rolling in gear (Up until about third when I can't tell if it went a awy
> or if the wind covered it up) it makes this clicking noise. It isn't too
> loud, and the time inbetween it decreases in relation to my speed. It
> seems to be coming from the front-driver;s side area. This would lead me
> to believe that the noise has something to do with the front tires or
> front axel, but I not have the transfer case in 4x, and the hubs are
> unlocked, and like I said it only occurs with I'm in gear. (Never in
> reverse, ironicly) Any thoughts?
> Also, my front wheel drive system is really screwed up. I don't think
> that the two problems are related, but I would like some
> answer/suggestions on this one too. The front passenger side's wheel
> doesn't work because the axel stub going to the wheel broke off at the
> Universal joint. An easy fix I hope. However, the other wheel in a
> different story. When I was last four-wheeling I became stuck in the
> mud. At frist teh wheel would turn, then the truck sank a little deeper,
> and it took more RPMS to get it going. Eventully a randum cluncking
> noise started to occur in place of the tire's turning. This would point
> to a problem in the front differentail, but what, exactly? (Now even the
> slightest bit of force agienst the tire will produce the sound.) Lastly
> with this problem, when I make a hard turn (a U-Turn for example) there
> is a loud noise and vibration from the front passenger-side wheel that
> makes my blood run cold, definatly something getting turn up, but what
> and why? I know the BII isn't the most popular 4x4, but any information
> will help. I think the Rangers are identical in 4wd systems. Thanks.
> -Vince Vella
> bronco2srule hotmail.com
>
> ______________________________________________________
> > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 13:33:26 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: 80 F150

Dont know for shure but I think the Texas package I've seen lately means =
the truck comes with a/c and a few other goodies. Summer is usualy 9 =
months long down here in Houston and farther south - Three of those =
months are usualy mid 90's or better every day. Dont know what else =
comes with the package. Anyway hope this was of some help. Josh might =
know what the full package includes.

John Cassis
The Danger Ranger
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 12:31:08 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk

Posluszny, Walt (posl) wrote:

> 1985 F-150, 351-2V, 4-SD(Manual OD), 3.50 gears, NP-208 Tranfer Case.
>
> HELP!
>
> I get lot's of slap, bang, shudder in my drivetrain when letting out the
> clutch in 1st gear. I can make it slap by getting on or off the gas
> pedal. It has done this since new, now it's getting really annoying.

This probably doesn't apply to you, but you might check the motor mounts. I
broke a motor mount once and it sounded like all hell was breaking loose,
and got worse the harder I accelerated. Accelerating gently, I had no
problem, but this was an automatic. I doubt the truck would've come from
the factory with a broken mount, but maybe someone forgot to bolt it down or
something.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:30:36 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: 93' F150

Hey guys my budy here at the office just got a 93' F-150 and wants to =
know where he can get some interior "stuff". Like seats, door panels, =
and a tilt steering column. Besides the obvious - JC Whitney. Anyway =
thanks in advance for the help.

John Cassis
The Danger Ranger

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 14:27:15 -0800
From: Mike Marcum
Subject: RE: brake cylinder

Chris,

Check to see if the brake fluid level is low in the master cylinder, if
it is not low, then it may be something else leaking. Also, check the
consistancy of the oil on the brake drum. If it is thick, and smelly,
it is probably differential lube.

I have an '86 F-250 SC 4x4, and had an oily driver side rear break drum.
When I took off the wheel, axle shaft, and drum, I found that the leak
was coming from the axle seal, and not the brake cylinder. The seal was
located in the break drum, and was fairly straight-forward to replace.

Good luck.

- - Mike



> -----Original Message-----
> From:Christopher Smith [SMTP:csmith60 expert.cc.purdue.edu]
> Sent:Monday, February 02, 1998 5:56 AM
> To:fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Cc:fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
> Subject:brake cylinder
>
> I have an 85 F250 4x4. It has recently started leaking brake fluid
> from
> somewhere in the rear drivers side. You can see where it has been
> leaking
> out from inside the drum. Call me stupid but i have never had a break
> cylinder apart. Any suggestions on where the fluid is leaking from.
> Just
> thought i would check before tearing into it. Also lately when i
> apply
> the brakes the rearend hops up and down a little. Is theis caused by
> the
> break fluid on the drum and shoes. Any comments would be greatly
> appreciated. Thanks.
> Chris Smith
> West Lafayette, IN
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer
> --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net,
> |
> | List removal instructions on the website.
> |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
> -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 16:06:09 -0600
From: bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)
Subject: Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts....

On Mon, 02 Feb 1998 09:50:43 -0800 David McDonald
writes:
>Hiya all,
>
> I'm hopin someone out there can help me out... I have an oil leak on
my '90 F250HD with a 351.

I found the leak on the passenger side valve cover, so I need to replace
the gasket, which means the intake manifold needs to come off. I tried,
and I'm no contortionist... How in this big blue world can you get those
back two bolts off the intake manifold without a socket extention that
resembles a slinky?
>
>
> About to pull the freakin engine for an oil leak,
>
> Dave McDonald
> dxmcdon uswest.com
>
>
>
>+--------------
umm, you shouldn't need to pull the intake just for the valve covers.
Besides, this is not for the faint of heart (or non contortionist).
Getting it off is enough of a job but getting it cleaned up (without
getting all that gasket trash in the motor) and then back on with all the
gaskets in the right place (the front and rear cork gaskets tend to
'walk' when tightening the intake down) is a job and a half. Then you get
to re-time the distrubutor too. I would almost prefer to pull the engine
and do it on a stand. (almost)
I didn't mean to discourage you from working on your truck but pulling
the intake is more work than I would want to do. (again)
Oh yeah, if you gotta do it, climb all the way back there with a
combination wrench and scrape some knuckles, and knees, and watch your
head too. been there, done that :-$

Brian Rickman bmrickman juno.com
91 Explorer 4X4 EB AOD Please forgive the tag line
81 F100 2wd 351w AOD It's added at the server.

For ad free, tag line free e-mail, don't think that

_____________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.juno.com
Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 15:36:07 -0600
From: "jccooper"
Subject: Fw: DLC/STI hiding place

- ----------
> From: jccooper
> To: fordtruck80up
> Subject: DLC/STI hiding place
> Date: Monday, February 02, 1998 2:11 PM
>
> I have a 85 F250 with 302. I can not seem to find the DLC/STI. The truck
> was wrecked and had a used front end installed, so I have looked just
about
> every where. I have a no run situation with fire at the plugs. It is EFI
> and I do not know how to check to see if it is getting fuel to the
> cylinders. It is getting fuel from the external pump (pressure seems
pretty
> high).
>
> Any suggestions (maybe I should say help) appreciated.
> That's my story and I'm stickin to it!!!
>
> JC down in Gnat Flats, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 18:14:32 -0500
From: Jim Clementz
Subject: Trailer Wiring and Transmission Cooler

I'm new to Ford having just bought a '98 F150 after driving the other
guys the last 25 years.
I am towing a 20' camper with mine and am setting things up. I have two
questions that I am
hoping somebody might know. First, I read someplace (perhaps in Trailer
Life) that Ford
puts wiring in place for electric brake hookups on trailers. If so,
where might I find the wiring
under the dash?

Second, I plan on installing a transmission cooler. Does anybody know
if Ford sells a kit
to add a cooler? Although there are several kits out there at Pep Boys,
etc.... I would rather
use prefabricated steel lines instead of running rubber hoses through
the radiator support. Is there any problem anyone sees with adding a
large cooler (better too cool than too hot?) or should it be sized "just
right" for the load I intend to haul (about 4500 lbs).

Love the truck so far..... so does my local Shell Gas Station!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 15:27:26 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Subject: RE: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk

I would have thought that will all this Ford brainpower out there
someone else would have come across this same condition. Not a single
response. Now I'm really depressed......................

> ----------
> From: Posluszny, Walt (posl)
> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 1998 8:56 AM
> To: 'fordtrucks80up ListService.net'
> Subject: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk
>
> 1985 F-150, 351-2V, 4-SD(Manual OD), 3.50 gears, NP-208 Tranfer Case.
>
> HELP!
>
> I get lot's of slap, bang, shudder in my drivetrain when letting out
> the clutch in 1st gear. I can make it slap by getting on or off the
> gas pedal. It has done this since new, now it's getting really
> annoying. The slip yoke has been replaced once, greased numerous
> times, I believe it's what destroyed the front universal joint at
> 47,000. I'm about at my wit's end. I'd really rather change the back
> of the NP-208 Transfer case to that of a knuckle style output shaft
> and have a new driveshaft built with the slip yoke in the middle of it
> like the front driveshaft.
>
> Any help or comments would be appreciated. Any TSB's on this?
>
> I've even put traction bars on the back thinking it might be axle wind
> up, it's not. I changed the tranny mount and it made a minor
> difference for a little while but nothing much. I'm going nuts with
> this. Sometimes it feels/sounds like the truck is falling apart. I
> don't notice it in any other gear than first.
>
> thanks
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 16:38:35 -0800
From: David McDonald
Subject: Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts....

brian k rickman wrote:

> umm, you shouldn't need to pull the intake just for the valve covers.
>

I'm pretty sure I do, I can't even see some of the bolts on the valvecover
cuz of the way the upper intake manifold swoops off to the
passenger side of the engine. I'm thinkin the lower mainfold can stay
put, it's not in the way. Does your '81 351 have fuel injection?

> I didn't mean to discourage you from working on your truck but pulling
> the intake is more work than I would want to do. (again)
> Oh yeah, if you gotta do it, climb all the way back there with a
> combination wrench and scrape some knuckles, and knees, and watch your
> head too. been there, done that :-$

>
>
> Brian Rickman bmrickman juno.com
> 91 Explorer 4X4 EB AOD Please forgive the tag line
> 81 F100 2wd 351w AOD It's added at the server.
>
> For ad free, tag line free e-mail, don't think that
>
>

Thanks for the advice, I'm sure I'll be sending out a 'gee, you wereright'
message by next week, If my knuckles aren't to scraped up to
type :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 16:44:16 -0800
From: David McDonald
Subject: Re: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk

Posluszny, Walt (posl) wrote:

> I would have thought that will all this Ford brainpower out there
> someone else would have come across this same condition. Not a single
> response. Now I'm really depressed......................
>
> >
> > I get lot's of slap, bang, shudder in my drivetrain when letting out
> > the clutch in 1st gear. I can make it slap by getting on or off the
> > gas pedal. It has done this since new, now it's getting really
> > annoying. The slip yoke has been replaced once, greased numerous
> > times, I believe it's what destroyed the front universal joint at
> > 47,000. I'm about at my wit's end. I'd really rather change the back
> > of the NP-208 Transfer case to that of a knuckle style output shaft
> > and have a new driveshaft built with the slip yoke in the middle of it
> > like the front driveshaft.
> >

Heck, I woulda thought that the U joint caused the slap in the first place
rather than the other way 'round. I had a U joint dump the needle bearings
but stay together, and got some real nice clunks and thunks till I replaced
it. If you crawl underneath and turn the driveshaft, where's the play? I
would think that'd narrow it down...


Speaking from limited knowledge,
Dave McDonald
dxmcdon uswest.com
(uswest doesn't want my opinions, and I don't go by theirs, so the
ones
expressed above are all mine)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 18:49:08 EST
From: JBien45204 aol.com
Subject: Re: 3.0 4x4 Gas Milage

Hello John,
My name is Jeff Bien & I live in Humble, TX. I know by first hand about bad
gas mileage. I found a product that was marketed in the Pacific Rim for the
past eight years that gives a 20.8% average fuel increase and a 10% increase
in horsepower. I ordered the product for myself. On a 92 Chev. Lumina 3.8 with
154,000 my best mileage was 14.4, after the 1st tank I got 18.8, after the 4th
tank 21.8 if my math is right I'm saving about $3.88 for each $1.00 of product
I buy. I tried this product out in my fishing boat and get about 2 more hours
out of a 12 gal. tank, but the big news for my boat was it could never pull me
up out of the water when I try to ski. So I tried to ski one more time (before
this I would drink half of the lake trying to get up) and I was very impressed
with the product. After putting this in all of my motors to date, during 1997
I saved a little over $1,700.00 in fuel that I didn't have to buy.

If I can be of help to get you any additional information, please feel free
to contact me. Best Regards Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 18:42:16 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk

Walt,
I thought that I sent a response today, but maybe it didn't get there.
Well, here it is again.

Check motor mounts. Had one break once, and sounded (and felt) like all
hell was breaking loose under there. Car would even start bouncing in
front. Probably because the engine was jumping around up there.

Unlikely that the thing was broken at the factory, but maybe they forgot to
bolt it down?

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------



Posluszny, Walt (posl) wrote:

> I would have thought that will all this Ford brainpower out there
> someone else would have come across this same condition. Not a single
> response. Now I'm really depressed......................
>
> > ----------
> > From: Posluszny, Walt (posl)
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 1998 8:56 AM
> > To: 'fordtrucks80up ListService.net'
> > Subject: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk
> >
> > 1985 F-150, 351-2V, 4-SD(Manual OD), 3.50 gears, NP-208 Tranfer Case.
> >
> > HELP!
> >
> > I get lot's of slap, bang, shudder in my drivetrain when letting out
> > the clutch in 1st gear. I can make it slap by getting on or off the
> > gas pedal. It has done this since new, now it's getting really
> > annoying. The slip yoke has been replaced once, greased numerous
> > times, I believe it's what destroyed the front universal joint at
> > 47,000. I'm about at my wit's end. I'd really rather change the back
> > of the NP-208 Transfer case to that of a knuckle style output shaft
> > and have a new driveshaft built with the slip yoke in the middle of it
> > like the front driveshaft.
> >
> > Any help or comments would be appreciated. Any TSB's on this?
> >
> > I've even put traction bars on the back thinking it might be axle wind
> > up, it's not. I changed the tranny mount and it made a minor....


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