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Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 17:27:41 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #31
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Friday, January 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 031



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: 98' Ranger ["R. Carson" ]
RE:4x4 Hubs: Manuals & Autos ["Smeins, Larry" ]
Auto-locking Hubs [John Cassis ]
Re: 4x4 Hubs: Manuals & Autos [Chad Royse ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #29 ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Re: 4x4 Hubs: Manuals & Autos ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Re: radio buzzing [cfoye BayNetworks.COM (Chris Foye)]
Re: diferences in automatics? [alanh galaxy.nsc.com (The Hepburn)]
Re: F-250HD 7.3L Pwr Stroke [Joseph/Rae Mead ]
Re: radio buzzing [William Smith ]
Transmission Ratios [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Re: Transmission Ratios [David McDonald ]
RE: Looking for Security System ["Chapman, David P"
'99 F350 Superduty [Rex Edmiston ]
Re: radio buzzing ["David J. Baldwin" ]
92' Bronco Engine Swaps ["BD Glisson" ]
Re: radio buzzing ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Re: PSD 4X4 frt. hubs & frt. springs [Rod Loewen ]
Re: F150 popping/creaking revisited ... I fixed mine! [ACMERCG
Re: toyota truck list?? [ACMERCG ]
Re: F350 suspension [Shawn Utz ]
Re: Transmission Ratios [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
radio buzzing ["Casey Vandor" ]
Subject: Re: radio buzzing ["Sven Setterdahl" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 07:29:44 -0500
From: "R. Carson"
Subject: Re: 98' Ranger

I love my 98 XLT, Super Cab, Flare Side, 2.5L, 5 Speed. It has plenty of
power and looks great on the outside and the inside. The stlying is
different and sets it off from the rest of the multitude of trucks on the
road. It rides great and the new power rack and pinion improves the
driving characteristics greatly. All in all I am extremelty happy with my
purchase. I previously owned a 87 Isuzu, then a 97 Ranger and now my 98.

Ron

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 1/22/98, at 6:17 AM, John Cassis wrote:

>I like them, sounds like yours must fly Josh. Whats the base color on the
truck?
>
>John Cassis
>The Danger Ranger
>93' STX 4x4
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:19:41 -0700
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: RE:4x4 Hubs: Manuals & Autos

Jim,
You've probably seen at least one of my posts on this subject. I asked
Ford to replace my automatics with their manuals when I blew an
automatic, I offered to pay for replacing the one that hadn't blown. I
was told by two dealers that the truck had to remain as built or the
warranty would be voided. There is the legal issue of whether the mod
contributed to the failure being claimed but that is a real hassle to
fight. I'm sure if you blew an axle or differential after replacing the
hubs Ford would win. I chose to leave the automatics on my truck until
the warranty expires and then change to manuals. If I have another
automatic failure that strands me I will call Ford's road service and
have them perform an expensive "rescue". I just received a check for
$150 for the last "rescue" and I saved them money on that one. The next
one will be max charge. I hope they enjoy paying for their stupid
policy.

Larry

>Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:32:43 -0700
>From: Jim Lujan
>Subject: 4x4 Hubs: Manuals & Autos

>When I bought my '97 F-350 4x4, it had everything I wanted *except* for
>the auto-locking hubs. I really would like manuals. From everything
>that I have seen on the net and heard from other PSD owners, the autos
>just don't hold up to the torque the PowerStroke puts out.

>So, I want to switch them out for manuals. Unfortunately, I have heard
>that doing so WILL VOID the warranty.

>What's the scoop? Will it really void the warranty on the drivetrain?

>-Jim-

>'97 F350 PS 4x4 CCab LB

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:20:54 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: Auto-locking Hubs

Jim,
I think warn makes manual locking hubs that can replace the stock =
auto-locking ones. You could try calling Off-Road Unlimited in Houston =
at (281)558-1600. These guys can tell you whats available as a =
replacement. Hope this helps.

John Cassis
The Danger Ranger
93' STX 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:54:38 -0800
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: 4x4 Hubs: Manuals & Autos

It is too bad really. Is it actually true Ford will void the ENTIRE drive
train warranty? I thought there was a federal law that, basically, says you
can modify your vehicle and the manufacturer has to recognize the warranty
on the rest of the vehicle. For instance if you put an after market exhaust
on your truck, Ford can't refuse to repair your burnt piston or plugged
injector. From what I hear it sounds like, replace your hubs and even your
engine is out of warranty. I could understand if they said they wouldn't
warrant the hubs, rotors and bearings. But anything else is unfairly
ridiculous. Some one should check on the legality of that.

Chad

Smeins, Larry wrote:

> Jim,
> You've probably seen at least one of my posts on this subject. I asked
> Ford to replace my automatics with their manuals when I blew an
> automatic, I offered to pay for replacing the one that hadn't blown. I
> was told by two dealers that the truck had to remain as built or the
> warranty would be voided. There is the legal issue of whether the mod
> contributed to the failure being claimed but that is a real hassle to
> fight. I'm sure if you blew an axle or differential after replacing the
> hubs Ford would win. I chose to leave the automatics on my truck until
> the warranty expires and then change to manuals. If I have another
> automatic failure that strands me I will call Ford's road service and
> have them perform an expensive "rescue". I just received a check for
> $150 for the last "rescue" and I saved them money on that one. The next
> one will be max charge. I hope they enjoy paying for their stupid
> policy.
>
> Larry
>
> >Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:32:43 -0700
> >From: Jim Lujan
> >Subject: 4x4 Hubs: Manuals & Autos
>
> >When I bought my '97 F-350 4x4, it had everything I wanted *except* for
> >the auto-locking hubs. I really would like manuals. From everything
> >that I have seen on the net and heard from other PSD owners, the autos
> >just don't hold up to the torque the PowerStroke puts out.
>
> >So, I want to switch them out for manuals. Unfortunately, I have heard
> >that doing so WILL VOID the warranty.
>
> >What's the scoop? Will it really void the warranty on the drivetrain?
>
> > -Jim-
>
> >'97 F350 PS 4x4 CCab LB
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:00:35 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #29

Randy Kindler wrote:

> Is there a difference in the automatics? I know the Mazda built 5spd was too
> wimpy for the 351, but I Thought the autos were the same. Why wasn't the HD
> 5spd ever available with 351 in F150s? I believe it was available in F250s.
> Do the '97s still use the same transmissions?

Now, I'm not an expert on either AODE or E4OD, but I know that the AODE was used
in Mustangs, Cougars, and other rear-drive Ford cars, which are much lighter
than the F-150. The E4OD was probably fitted to anything bigger than the 302,
but I am not sure. The E4OD is stronger, but I don't know how much.

I was considering a Powerstroke in '95 when I worked at Ford. A co-worker who
had owned a few told me to "stay away from the automatic--definitely get the
manual", because the torque output of the diesel was too much for reliable
operation. Supposedly they were working on improvements on the automatic (which
one is used in the PS, I don't know, then or now) to beef it up. I would hope
that those changes have been made by now. I haven't seen too many people on the
list complaining of auto trans problems with powerstrokes. Maybe I just don't
recall.

I believe that there's going to be a new SVO Mustang with the 351 in it, if it
isn't here already--saw it on Ford's website not too long ago. They're probably
only available with the manual, but if they are available with an auto, I wonder
which they will use.

I am also unaware of any modifications that one can make to any of these to make
them last longer. If anyone knows of any, let me know. Please.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX 75243
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:07:00 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: 4x4 Hubs: Manuals & Autos

Chad Royse wrote:

> It is too bad really. Is it actually true Ford will void the ENTIRE drive
> train warranty? I thought there was a federal law that, basically, says you
> can modify your vehicle and the manufacturer has to recognize the warranty
> on the rest of the vehicle.

I'd like to make some changes, too, but who wants to take the chance? At the
very least, you could expect the dealer/Ford to give you a hassle about it. I
personally, don't want that kind of aggrivation.

On cat-back systems: I don't think that even with my extended warranty, that
the exhaust system is covered past the catalyst. I think if it gives out (or
you damage it out on an obstruction) you are free to replace it with whatever
you want. I really don't think they can hassle you over this. I think exhaust
is considered regular maintenance.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX 75243
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:33:58 -0800
From: cfoye BayNetworks.COM (Chris Foye)
Subject: Re: radio buzzing

Hey Casey,


There are many causes of ignition interference, bad grounding, bad wiring
on the radio etc. There are few things which can help. 1.) bring it to
a radio installation shop and sometimes they can help. I had the same
problem with a radio and tried the inline noise suppressor, the shop had
a pretty good size capacitor and grounded one end and then touched the
other end on the fuses one by one and when the radio noise suppressed
they tied the cap to that fuse from the back. 2.) install new spark plug
wires the suppressor types, not the cheapest solution and no guarantee.
3.) Install a shield behind the radio to shield it from the truck wiring
or move the truck wiring harness away from the radio wiring.


Hope this is of some help.


CF




At 08:13 PM 1/22/98 -0900, Casey Vandor wrote...

>>>>

For you stereo guys out there.. I recently put a deck into my
truck. When the engine is off, the thing sounds awesome, but when the
engine is on, I have a lot of interference, the speakers really buzz,
which REALLY SUCKS! I put a heavy duty engine noise filter from Radio
Shack in, but I still have this annoying buzz. The speakers are not
being overused, they handle 75 Watts a piece and I am only putting 25
into them, the ohmage is right, 4 just like it should be. The speakers
are in the 6 1/2 inch cutouts in the doors. Any suggestions? A
different filter? The one I used is inline from the power wire and then
to the deck, and grounded, should I use a filter in each speaker line?
(if they make such a filter) I am still looking for info on Riken
tires too, where to get ahold of them.... Casey



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 08:48:07 -0800
From: alanh galaxy.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Subject: Re: diferences in automatics?

Dave Baldwin writes:

> I am also unaware of any modifications that one can make to any
> of these to make them last longer. If anyone knows of any, let
> me know. Please.

Glad to oblige! I have a reprint of an article from the Summer 1995
issue of "Ford Truckin'" called Bomb Proofing Ford's E4OD. It
describes in detail exactly what can be done to turn the E4OD into
a completely new, strong transmission. A company called ATO
Performance Transmission Products in Rancho Cordova, Ca does the
work, and it's impressive on paper. If I decide to keep my F350
instead of upgrading to an F450 or F550 it will be taking a trip
up to Rancho Cordova this year. If anybody is interested in the
article, I can probably post it; it's about 2 pages and goes through
all the changes that the company makes.

- ---

Alan Hepburn | |
National Semiconductor | DON'T TREAD ON ME |
Santa Clara, Ca | |
alanh galaxy.nsc.com | |

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:56:54 -0600
From: Joseph/Rae Mead
Subject: Re: F-250HD 7.3L Pwr Stroke

Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 08:26:36 -0800
From: alanh galaxy.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Subject: Re: F-250HD 7.3L Pwr Stroke

> Is there a recommendation on oil type for 7.3L Pwr Stroke. I have
> usually used Quaker State in other vehicles, but dont know if this is
> what I should use in my new F-250HD. Thanks

Some good oils for the PS engine include Chevrom Delo and Shell
Rotella. I buy Chevron Delo from my local International dealer
and that's what they use, so I figure it's a good choice. A
five gallon bucket runs about $28.

- - ---

Alan Hepburn | |
National Semiconductor | DON'T TREAD ON ME |
Santa Clara, Ca | |
alanh galaxy.nsc.com |
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The International dealer I go to sells penzoil But do I use that oil NOPE go with
Shell Rotella T that is what navstar used in developing the engine, you cant go wrong
there, Also check out Jasons Powerstroke page:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.abol.com/users/jlester/index.htm
and the POSC unofficial club http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.aslci.com/psocindx.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:08:15 -0500 (EST)
From: William Smith
Subject: Re: radio buzzing

You might not have your radio properly grounded. I had the same problem
in my explorer. My radio was a Pioneer CD player and it picked up engine
noise and later it made a crackling sound that made four brand new 6.5
inch Cerwin Vega speakers sound as if they were blown. If you had it
professionally installed, take it back. If you did the wiring yourself,
double check or ask someone working at a car audio shop.

On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, Casey Vandor wrote:

> For you stereo guys out there.. I recently put a deck into my truck. When the engine is off, the thing sounds awesome, but when the engine is on, I have a lot of interference, the speakers really buzz, which REALLY SUCKS! I put a heavy duty engine noise filter from Radio Shack in, but I still have this annoying buzz. The speakers are not being overused, they handle 75 Watts a piece and I am only putting 25 into them, the ohmage is right, 4 just like it should be. The speakers are in the 6 1/2 inch cutouts in the doors. Any suggestions? A different filter? The one I used is inline from the power wire and then to the deck, and grounded, should I use a filter in each speaker line? (if they make such a filter)
> I am still looking for info on Riken tires too, where to get ahold of them....
>
> Casey
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:47:12, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: Transmission Ratios

Hi y'all,

I finally heard back from Ford about the 99 transmission ratios.

4R100 Auto:

1st=2.71
2nd=1.54
3rd=1.00
4th OD=.71
R=2.18
(same as E4OD in 1997)

5 Speed (gas engines only):
1st=5.72
2nd=2.94
3rd=1.61
4th=1.00
5th OD=.76
R=.76
(same as 5 speed in 1997)

6 speed (diesel only):

1st=5.79
2nd=3.31
3rd=2.10
4th=1.31
5th=1.00
6th OD=.72

Hope this helps.

Josh

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:59:58 -0800
From: David McDonald
Subject: Re: Transmission Ratios

MR JOSH J TENNEY wrote:

> 5 Speed (gas engines only):
> 1st=5.72
> 2nd=2.94
> 3rd=1.61
> 4th=1.00
> 5th OD=.76
> R=.76
> (same as 5 speed in 1997)
Hee Hee... 70 mph in reverse once you get the thing movin :)
That'd get some attention on the highway :)

Dave McDonald
(all in fun Josh, thanks much for posting the info :)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 13:03:36 -0500
From: "Chapman, David P"
Subject: RE: Looking for Security System

Hey - thanks to everyone that responded to my request for security
system information. I'll be spending the next couple of weeks "checkin
them out".

Thanks again,
Dave C.

> ----------
> From: Thomas Fric[SMTP:tfric ibm.net]
> Reply To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Sent: Thursday, January 22, 1998 9:53 PM
> To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Looking for Security System
>
> Try the Alpine and Clifford alarms both work well. I have an Alpine
> alarm on
> my truck with a radar sensor that detects movement in the cab and it
> also
> has a pager to page me when the alarm goes off.
>
> David Chapman wrote:
>
> > I want to install an aftermarket alarm/remote keyless entry system
> on my
> >
> > 95 Bronco. Has anyone installed one or have information on which
> ones
> > work well or don't work well. I've gathered lots of info from the
> Web,
> > but it's the usual marketing stuff.
> >
> > Dave C.
> >
> > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer
> --------------+
> > | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net,
> |
> > | List removal instructions on the website.
> |
> > +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
> -----------------+
>
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer
> --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net,
> |
> | List removal instructions on the website.
> |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
> -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 13:23:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Rex Edmiston
Subject: '99 F350 Superduty

Hi All

Saw one of the above units yesterday at the San Francisco Sports and
Boat Show....Red-short bed-regular cab-4X4.

They had no spec sheets or pricing - just the truck. Looked mighty
fine! Don't think it looks like a D *ge at all.

Check it out - show closes 1/25.

...rex

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:38:31 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: radio buzzing

Casey Vandor wrote:

> For you stereo guys out there.. I recently put a deck into my
> truck. When the engine is off, the thing sounds awesome, but when the
> engine is on, I have a lot of interference, the speakers really buzz,
> which REALLY SUCKS! I put a heavy duty engine noise filter from Radio
> Shack in, but I still have this annoying buzz. The speakers are not
> being overused, they handle 75 Watts a piece and I am only putting 25
> into them, the ohmage is right, 4 just like it should be. The
> speakers are in the 6 1/2 inch cutouts in the doors. Any
> suggestions? A different filter? The one I used is inline from the
> power wire and then to the deck, and grounded, should I use a filter
> in each speaker line? (if they make such a filter) I am still
> looking for info on Riken tires too, where to get ahold of them....

Casey,

I know the feeling--been there. I can't recall for sure, but I believe
you have an older truck. When they get older, the electrical
connections to the battery , ground, and connectors deteriorate and then
you get all kinds of nasty signals on the supply and ground introduced
to your stereo.

First, some questions:

* Did you have a factory radio before? If so, did it have the same
problem?
* Did you use the factory supply wiring?
* Do you have return wires going to the speakers or are they grounded
at the speaker?
* Does the noise increase in pitch as you increase engine speed?
* If you have radio and cassette or CD, do you get the noise when
listening to the radio only, and the CD or cassette sounds good? Or
is it noisy no matter what?

What you really want is a good supply and ground connection. If you
have access to an oscilloscope (hey, doesn't everyone) and know how to
use one, take a look at the supply and ground voltage at the unit. Bet
you see all kinds of nasty junk.

If you see a bunch of sinusoidal "humps" looking like a full-wave
rectified signal, low frequency, then it's probably coming from the
alternator. When you hear this noise, it changes in frequency as engine
speed changes, and souns like a moan. This indicates that your
connection to the battery may have deteriorated. Recommend replacing
battery cables and cleaning the posts.

If you see a lot of high-frequency "hash" (spikes), this is probably due
to ignition noise. This can be conducted through the supply and ground,
or radiated as RF noise that is picked up by the radio. This noise
usually changes with engine speed too, but the sound is more "harsh", a
whine. In this case, a poor battery connection can be a problem, or it
can be poor connection servicing the ignition, ignition switch, fuse
block, or anywhere in the wiring harness. I had a car with copper
ignition wires, and that thing did broadcast RF noise that I'm sure
interfered with other people, not just me! If you have such a setup, you
might want to go back to the "suppressor" type. This kind of radiated
emissions usually get picked up by the radio tuner section, and cassette
or CD sounds better.

I installed a 75W amplifier, which had a relay and direct connection to
the battery. The factory wiring harness only supplies a few watts, and
upgrading can cause problems. If you make the connection directly to
the battery, you bypass a lot of those noise sources by putting the
sound system on its own circuit. Problem with running unswitched is
that you can drain your battery if you leave it on. This is where the
relay comes in: you can use the switched ignition signal to power the
relay so it turns off when you turn off the truck.

Be very careful if you decide to do something like this. Remove the
battery from the circuit first, and be sure not to create any shorts.
Add a fuse in the line, too. You might get a substantial improvement by
replacing battery cables and cleaning contacts and connectors throughout
the car, without going to the bother of running another circuit.

Oh, and if you run another circuit, use some heavy wire. At least 10
gauge, more if you want. I think my 75W unit came with 6 ga.

Grounding speakers to the chassis is always a bad idea. Chassis grounds
really deteriorate with age. If one speaker lead is to be grounded (I
haven't seen one like this in years--so I doubt it) run a lead back to
the unit, and ground it to the unit ground connection. Make sure that
the unit itself is not getting its ground only from a chassis
connection: make sure it has a wired connection to the battery somehow.

Good luck. Let us know what you find.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX 75243
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 13:52:22 -0500
From: "BD Glisson"
Subject: 92' Bronco Engine Swaps

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BD2806.20F84BE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yo: =20
I just purchased a 92 Bronco EB with a 302 that is gutless. I'm =
considering replacing it with a SVO 351, but question why I am not =
looking at big block engines. What would be the best engine upgrade for =
increased torque. Should I be considering a 390, 428, 429, or a 460. If =
so which is the most reliable, easily installed, and powerfull.=20
=20
glissonbd bigfoot.com
Brenton D. Glisson

- ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BD2806.20F84BE0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable






http-equiv=3DContent-Type>




Yo:   
    I just purchased =
a 92 Bronco=20
EB with a 302 that is gutless. I'm considering replacing it with a SVO =
351, but=20
question why I am not looking at big block engines. What would be the =
best=20
engine upgrade for increased torque. Should I be considering a 390, 428, =
429, or=20
a 460. If so which is the most reliable, easily installed, and =
powerfull.=20

 

href=3D"mailto:glissonbd bigfoot.com">glissonbd bigfoot.com
IV>
Brenton D.=20
Glisson

- ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01BD2806.20F84BE0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:46:35 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: radio buzzing

Casey Vandor wrote:

> ... I put a heavy duty engine noise filter from Radio Shack in, but I
> still have this annoying buzz.
>
> ...should I use a filter in each speaker line?

Sorry, forgot to answer the filter thing. I tried one of these, and all
it did was take the edge off of the whine. Basically, if you have
slight high-frequency noise, these will fix it. If it's a serious noise
problem, these won't fix it.

If you put a filter in the speaker line, you'll filter your sound too!
If you get the supply thing right, I think you'll be OK.

I don't know how much wiring you had to do, but keep the audio system
wiring away from ignition system wiring. You can get cross-coupling.
Don't route them together.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX 75243
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:53:39 -0800
From: Rod Loewen
Subject: Re: PSD 4X4 frt. hubs & frt. springs

I have 125,000 real hard (oilpatch) kilometers on my 96 F250 PSD 4X4 and
the dealer put manual hubs in place of the automatics on warrantee. The
automatic lockers just don't stand up. We also added a third leaf to the
front springs due to sag and although the ride is slightly stiffer
initially, it actually handles all bumps better. I consider it an
improvement

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 15:14:20 EST
From: ACMERCG
Subject: Re: F150 popping/creaking revisited ... I fixed mine!

I'm new to the list and have the creaking problem on my 92' F-150.
Where did you squirt the oil and what bolts?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 15:11:59 EST
From: ACMERCG
Subject: Re: toyota truck list??

You could try keyword "Wheels", and go to "Messages m-z" and look under
Toyota. I think you will find what you need there.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:36:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Shawn Utz
Subject: Re: F350 suspension

All,

I stoped by the dealer this morning and had the service guy take a look.
He states tolerance is 3/4" from side to side. Mine measured 1". The
suggested fix is to either do nothing or put a shim on top of the axle
below the spring. He speaks of swapping springs and having problems actually
get worse in a similar Explorer episode.
The warrenty coverage on this is considered adjustments and is covered
thru 12K/12M. So I think the best thing to do is wait to see if this is
a bad spring and remeasure every 1K or so to keep Ford honest.

What do you guys on the list think?

Shawn

>>I have a new 97 F-350, CC, 4x4, PSD too and I noticed something similar. Upon
further investigation, I noticed the front axle is wider than the rear. Stand
behind your truck and you should see the front tire stick out further than the
rear tire on each side. Everthing I see says this is normal. As for the TSB,
I thought that was for a sagging front-end on a F-250, 4x4, with the PSD.
I've considered adding a leaf to the front in order to level my truck out. I
know a guy who did this, but he said he noticed a much stiffer ride.

Hope this helps a little.
Jeff

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Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:17:10, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: Re: Transmission Ratios

Sorry,

Reverse was 5.24 on a gas engine 5 speed manual in the 1999s.

Josh

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Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 15:26:52 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: radio buzzing

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SPS deck, I know cheap, but the last one I got for free was great. MTX =
Thunder 6 1/2 speakers, no amp


Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 02:00:30 EST
From: Midwest96
Subject: Re: radio buzzing

In a message dated 98-01-23 00:22:42 EST, you write:


should
be. The speakers are in the 6 1/2 inch cutouts in the doors. Any
suggestions? A different filter? The one I used is inline from the =
power
wire and then to the deck, and grounded, should I use a filter in each =
speaker
line? (if they make such a filter) >>

What kind of speakers, deck, do you have an amp?

Craig

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SPS deck, I know cheap, but the last =
one I got=20
for free was great.  MTX Thunder 6 1/2 speakers, no =
amp
 
 
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 02:00:30 ESTFrom: Midwest96 <
href=3D"mailto:Midwest96 aol.com">Midwest96 aol.com>Subject: =
Re: radio=20
buzzingIn a message dated 98-01-23 00:22:42 EST, you=20
write:<< I am only putting 25 into them, the ohmage is =
right, 4=20
just like it shouldbe.  The speakers are in the 6 1/2 inch =
cutouts in=20
the doors.  Anysuggestions?  A different filter?  The =
one I=20
used is inline from the powerwire and then to the deck, and =
grounded, should=20
I use a filter in each speakerline?  (if they make such a=20
filter)   >>What kind of speakers, deck, do you =
have an=20
amp?Craig 

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Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 18:28:30 -0600
From: "Sven Setterdahl"
Subject: Subject: Re: radio buzzing....


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