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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:24:51 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #16
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Friday, January 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 016



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Re: Bug Deflectors [Psnowball ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #14 [Dhawk21 ]
Bug Deflectors [PDupont105 ]
Re: Carburator Problems??? Holley [Mike Johnson ]
Re: F-150 Shocking, still. Etc..... [Chad Royse ]
Rice Boy [John Cassis ]
Re: Bug Deflectors [James Federline ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #15 [Bill Funk ]
Re: Parking Position (Transmissions) [Chad Royse ]
Re: 1-tons, diesel and winches [Jim Lujan ]
Re: Bug Deflectors [Penqiun ]
Re: Parking Position (Transmissions) [alanh galaxy.nsc.com (The Hepburn)]
Clutch [John Cassis ]
Allisons CAN have Park [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Re: Carburator Problems??? Holley ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Re: Bug Deflectors ["Andrew K. Haydock" ]
Extended Warranty [John Bartin ]
Rough Ride complaint outcome. [Randy Rees ]
Banks TransCommand??? 2nd request [Rex Edmiston
Re: Extended Warranty [Randy ]
RE: Bug Deflectors [ANTHONY RIFICI ]
Re: Rough Ride complaint outcome. ["Joseph L. Casey"
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #14 [TCPFL ]
1999 delivery date ["Joseph L. Casey" ]
Re: Extended Warranty [John Turner ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 07:50:00 EST
From: Psnowball
Subject: Re: Re: Bug Deflectors

I had one on my 1987 Toyota pickup right from the start-and it worked great.
I had the new, aerodynamic kind put on my new 1997 Ranger-and it seems to be
working as well. Does not seem to affect the mileage. My husband used the
sticky tape for the first 2 weeks, then bolted it on-more to please me than
because of not staying on.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:11:07 EST
From: Dhawk21
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #14

How many transmission owners are paying out for failures with the E4OD. I
think it is time for consumers to address this with a class action suit.
Anyone that has had bad experience or failure contact me: DHawk21 aol.com
We have a 94 dually that has had 7 transmission failures.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:19:22 EST
From: PDupont105
Subject: Bug Deflectors

Hello,
I have a tinted wrap-around that I installed on my '87 BroncoII and it has the
sticky tape. I haven't had ANY problems with it. It doesn't move on the
highway and is not touching the truck. That tape, whatever it is is really
REALLY strong so if you get this type make sure you put this thing on straight
the first time because you may not get a second chance. I'm no big advocate
of using the tape variety and if I hadn't gotten such a good deal I probably
would have gone with the more traditional bolt-on type of deflector.
Patrick

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:37:44 -0500
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: Re: Carburator Problems??? Holley

86 f150 with the 300 cid engine, with a holley 4 barrel 390 cfm,
Offenhauser intake ,header, duel exhaust.

Thanks for everyones info on this problem.

I never had this problem until a good year after I installed the new
parts,
the truck ran great, it had lots of power and good acceleration, no
problems at all.
I did have an intake leak at the head during the summmer and the problem
didn't develope
at that time, could this have done something to the carb?
My truck did backfire sometimes becouse of the leak. But I fixed that
problem.
I put in a new power valve and cleaned the carb about a month ago and it
didn't help.
I haven't changed the accelerator pump.

With all the problems people seem to have with Holley Carbs
maybe I should try a different brand.
Any suggestions on an alternative carb for my truck?

Mike Johnson
mikej granger-co.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 08:46:17 -0800
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: F-150 Shocking, still. Etc.....

When it gets 35 degrees or below here in Cinicinnati, my '97 460 has a nasty
rattle and a groaning noise. Both are very audible and go away after the
truck reaches normal operating tempature. I have taken it to a couple
different dealerships, and they can't figure it out.

Midwest96 wrote:

> In a message dated 98-01-06 02:49:47 EST, you write:
>
>
> that comes from the engine compartment when its real cold out ?
>
> Thanks again !
>
> Bob
> Anchorage, Alaska
> ascbh1 uaa.alaska.edu >>
>
> Hey, sorry I took so long to reply, but I just wanted to point out that your
> idea of very cold is probably a bit cooler than the rest of us
>
> Craig
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+



- --
Chad

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//~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|_|_\__,_|_| \__|_|_||_\__, |~~~~~
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New River - 1995, 1996, 1997
Fall Gauley - 1997 x-StRe M!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:02:10 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: Rice Boy

Hmm....I have large tires, my truck is lifted, stock exhaust (sorry no =
performance exhaust yet), I off-road quite a bit, and I live in Texas. =
Not a redneck, a surfer. Give me a break dude no ones bustin' yer ba# =
here so take it easy on the off-roaders here. The guy was just stating =
his opinion, in a much less harsh tone than you......Rice Boy. And I =
dont think any of us likes to be sterio typed, ie just cuz' I drive a =
4x4 and off road doesnt mean I'm a redneck.

John Cassis
The Danger Ranger
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:17:33 -0600 (CST)
From: James Federline
Subject: Re: Bug Deflectors

>Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 14:18:35 EST
>From: johnmck juno.com (John R. McKee)
>Subject: Bug Deflectors
>
>I would like to hear from owners who have installed bug deflectors.
>First, do they work as advertised?

Yes, if you get certain ones...

>Secondly, which ones work the best?

The completely flat vertical ones, but those are ugly IMHO. I used to have
an 80 LTD with a flat one in south central Minnesota, grasshopper and
mosquito heaven, worked great. I have a contoured Lund
protector/deflector, which has a little upturned lip on the last inch, on
my '96 Ranger, and it only deflects the bugs for the bottom 2/3 of the
windshield. I get a "bug-line" right in front of my eyes. :)

>Lastly, do the ones which are attached with sticky tape really stay on?

In a word, no. Screw that thing on.

One final word: If you're in the market for a contoured one, make sure
it's stiff enuff not to flap in the wind (like meeting a semi on a
2-laner) so much that it thwaps the hood. The Lund I bought has never come
close.

- --
James B. Federline MinnSoft Corporation
Principal Consultant "Actual Solutions To Real Problems"
----------M_____i_____n_____n_____S_____o_____f_____t---(sm)---
Tivoli / Lawson / UNIX Administration / Database Administration

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 07:59:50 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #15

> From: Randy
> Subject: Re: Carburator Problems?
>
> Bill Funk wrote:
> >
> > The system Mike Marcum is speaking of, to shoot extra gas in the
> carb
> > when the throttle is openeing, is the accellerator pump, and it
> > certainly sounds as if this is is the problem here. To find out, one
> can
> > remove the air filter, climb up to be able to see into the carb from
> the
> > top, and open the throttle; a shot of gas should enter the venturi.
> The
> > gas should start as soon as the throttle opens.
>
> Please, use common sense here! Even though the carb may not have
> backfired in the past, don't take a chance that it won't happen while
> you've got your eyeball about 12 inches away! Wear safety goggles, or
> a
> full safety shield, but most people don't have one of those. A cheap
> investment though.
> That's all from the safety council of Ford trucks!!!!
> Randy

Excellent point!!
I should have pointed out that the engine should *not* be running when
you do this!
I sometimes take the most elemental steps for granted.
In fact, if the engine is running, and the accellerator pump isn't
putting out enough gas, this results in a lean mixture (the cause of a
flat spot) when the throttle is opened, and may well cause a backfire
through the carb.
Thanks, Randy, for pointing out this obvious error of mine.

Bill

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 10:07:57 -0800
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: Parking Position (Transmissions)

The Hepburn wrote:

> > If you're not supposed to use PARK on an automatic transmission,
> > why do they make it an option. If you're going to use the emergency
> > brake, there would only need to be the drive, reverse, and and
> > neutral options.
>
> I'm not saying you're not supposed to use the Park position - I'm
> saying you should not rely on the Park position to hold your vehicle
> stationary, especially on an incline. And we can argue semantics:
> my vehicles all have PARKING brakes, not EMERGENCY brakes. The
> parking brake is extremely inefficient when using it in an emergency
> situation. And take a look at the Allison family of automatic
> transmissions: you won't find a Park position on them.

Allison's are typically found on large Motor Homes, Dump Trucks, and
Semi's. Allison's with no Park are usually in applications with air
brakes. Air parking brakes hold with tremendous amounts of power on ALL
wheels. A little more adequate than flimsy cable operated, rear wheel only
systems on domestic vehicles. Oh and "EMERGENCY" brakes aren't meant for
any emergency situation. They are meant for one situation; the loss of
hydraulic brakes. And if you have absolutely no hydraulic brakes, they are
very efficient compared to the Fred Flinstone method of braking!

>
>
> > Does this also mean that when I park my manual, I should leave it
> > in neutral and use the emergency brake?
>
> While leaving it in neutral is unnecessary, using the parking brake
> should be standard procedure. Relying on engine friction to hold
> your car stationary leaves a lot to be desired.

Get your vehicle rolling about 10mph and pop the clutch in low and let us
know what happened. There's a reason you don't kick start in low. I'm not
saying you shouldn't use your emergency brake as well on larger hills, but
there's no need to be anal about it in our garages and parking lots.

>
>
> Check the Vehicle Code for your state. California's Vehicle Code says:
>
> " Unattended Vehicles
>
> 22515. (a) No person driving, or in control of, or in charge of, a
> motor vehicle shall permit it to stand on any highway unattended
> without first effectively setting the brakes thereon and stopping
> the motor thereof."
>
> While this doesn't apply to parking lots, driveways, front yards, etc.
> it's clear that if your parking on a public street, California requires
> you to set your brakes. Since you can't "set" your service brakes
> without being within reaching distance of the brake pedal, the only way
> to comply with this law is to apply the parking brake.
>
> ---
>
> Alan Hepburn | |
> National Semiconductor

Is there some sort of national safety problem with parked vehicles that I'm
missing and your fighting until the very end? I bet that an overwhelming
majority of this lists participants have never broke a parking pin,
especially if you remove the 'ol "let's see what park does at 20mph" and "I
think Park will hold my truck and 32ft camper on this incline".

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 08:36:14 -0700
From: Jim Lujan
Subject: Re: 1-tons, diesel and winches

Nathan,

I have heard that when you get a winch, you want one that is rated for
pulling capacity 1.5 times the weight of you vehicle. This way you are
not always pulling at the capacity of the winch every time you use it.

The other thing is that even if the truck weighs around 7000 lbs, depending
on the conditions, you could also be pulling against several hundred pounds
of resistance of snow and/or mud.

You could probably get by with the Warn 9000I if you knew it was just going
to be light duty when you used it. If you thought you would have that
camper on when you had to use the winch, you might want to go for a winch
rated at 12000 lbs pulling capacity.

Personally, I put on the Warn 12000 mounted in a Warn Enforcer bumper. It
is a real clean *look* (almost factory). The 12000 was on sale at the time
and it was only $40 dollars more than the 10000 at the time.

You might want to check out Mile Marker winches as well. Four Wheel Parts
Wholesalers has some pretty good prices on Warn products. Also, install
a tow hook or two on front end somewhere.

-Jim-

'97 F350 PS 4x4 CCab LB

- --------------------------------------------------------
Jim Lujan
On-Site ASCI/ACL Program Manager Phone: (505) 665-0718
Silicon Graphics/Cray Research Pager: (505) 669-1600
127 Eastgate Drive Fax: (505) 662-7944
Suite 208 E-mail: jewel lanl.gov
Los Alamos, NM 87544

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 10:48:18 EST
From: Penqiun
Subject: Re: Bug Deflectors

I have used several types of bug defrlectors. They all work the same. the
difference in them is which ones will touch the hood of your truck on driving
due to wind force. The Force Shield bug deflector wont touch the hood of your
truck and is gauenteed for life. Look at other bug deflectors and then push in
on them and you will see the difference between good ones and bad ones. Most
of the one sold in auto stores(ie. Parts America, Napa) are the cheap ones.
Hope this helps. The force shield is about 80 to 100 dollars.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:01:28 -0800
From: alanh galaxy.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Subject: Re: Parking Position (Transmissions)

> Compliance with the law it might be. However, (IMHO) anyone who depends
> on the parking brake to hold a vehicle on a hill is asking for big
> trouble. I have very little faith in parking brakes. Never have had
> much use for mechanical brakes. Seen too many of them fail and let the
> vehicle move.

Yet you don't have a problem with asking a tiny (usually about 3/16")
pin to hold up under the stress? I'm not saying the parking brake is
perfect, and I agree that there are times when it's not enough, but
to not use it beccause it's not enough is asking for trouble.

- ---

Alan Hepburn | |
National Semiconductor | DON'T TREAD ON ME |
Santa Clara, Ca | |
alanh galaxy.nsc.com | |

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 10:36:27 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: Clutch

I replaced mine at 75,000 miles. My slave cylinder to the clutch went =
bad so while I was there I went ahead and did it. Looked like it had =
about another 10 or 15k left in it. I am pretty hard on clutches and =
about half my miles were while towing. I was impressed that it lasted =
that long. I would'nt worry about it until it starts slipping. If you =
dont drive hard I'm sure it will last more than 100k miles.

John Cassis
The Danger Ranger
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 12:27:58, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: Allisons CAN have Park

For all those that care about Allison Automatics:

Most Allison Autos do not have park, but we have two, one Ford and
one GMC, 24' vans with gas engines and Allsion autos and they both
have park. The tranny itself doesn't have park, but it is neutral
and the the parking brake applies automatically when the tranny is
placed in park. The only trucks I have seen them in are Penske
rental units. Most others don't have this, but it is just a safety
reminder.

Josh

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 11:35:39 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: Carburator Problems??? Holley

Mike Johnson wrote:
>
> 86 f150 with the 300 cid engine, with a holley 4 barrel 390 cfm,
> Offenhauser intake ,header, duel exhaust.
>
> Thanks for everyones info on this problem.

That 390 CFM should be great for the size engine you have.

> I never had this problem until a good year after I installed the new
> parts,
> the truck ran great, it had lots of power and good acceleration, no
> problems at all.

Thanks for setting me straight. I was under the impression that it had
never worked right. If it worked right once, there's no reason to
suspect the setup.

> I did have an intake leak at the head during the summmer and the problem
> didn't develope
> at that time, could this have done something to the carb?
> My truck did backfire sometimes becouse of the leak. But I fixed that
> problem.

Are you sure that the manifold leak is fixed? It could definitely cause
this problem. If you have a vacuum gauge, connect it to where the brake
booster is fitted, and look at your vacuum at idle. Is it low? If so,
probably have a leak. If you can measure it, do so and give us the
numbers.

If you don't have a vacuum gauge, try spraying some WD40 around the
manifold/head and carb/manifold connections. If revs build, you've got
a leak.

> I put in a new power valve and cleaned the carb about a month ago and it
> didn't help.

>From my experience, when the power valve ruptures, you get LOTS of black
smoke and the car will hardly idle. Maybe I always blew mine big-time,
but thats my observation. If you're not rich, it's probably not the
power valve.

> I haven't changed the accelerator pump.

With the air cleaner off (engine off, too) gaze down the primaries and
wing on the accelerator. You should see two jets of fuel spray onto the
venturii from above, one jet for each venturi. If you don't, you have
(a) failed accelerator pump, or (b) clogged accelerator pump metering
channel that connects the accelerator pump output to the pump nozzle.

Like one respondent said, "Use some common sense here": unless you have
a desire for a barbequeued face, don't do the above proceedure with the
engine running. Don't do it a lot with the engine off, either, because
you don't want to flood the engine out, either.

Check the fuel bowls for dirt that could have clogged something. Are you
running a fuel filter?

I just thought of something: that friend who has a similar setup on the
chevy 250 six had a plate mounted to the BOTTOM of the manifold casting
directly under where the carb sits. I think this was to mate to a heat
riser or something, but it did have a cover plate and a gasket. If
yours has the same thing, check there for leaks, too.

> With all the problems people seem to have with Holley Carbs
> maybe I should try a different brand.
> Mike Johnson
> mikej granger-co.com

Mike, I wouldn't get too upset with Holleys. I've had a few, and
they've always been quite reliable. The only time I had problems was
when I was doing a non-stock setup, and had to do some tuning. When
things aren't right you get backfires, etc., and I've had ruptured power
valves from this.

Other carbs have little metering rods and are overly complicated.
Holleys are very simple, and generally user-friendly.

If you really want to get involved with a complex carburetor, get three
two bbl Weber sidedraft carbs on that bad boy. Then you can fiddle with
all kinds of jets and emulsion tubes--and you get to synchronise them as
well!

I had a Jaguar 3.8L six with 3 sidedraft SU carbs on it. Those are
crude, need oil for the air-valve dampers, and frequently have sticking
needle/seat assemblies...but when they're dialed in, they KICK! I don't
know if you can even get SU carbs anymore, but you would definitely need
a custom intake manifold--because no one makes one for your engine. A
manifold for Webers, you might find.

Once you work on the alternatives, you'll be glad you have a Holley.
Good luck and keep us posted.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 11:26:15 -0800 (PST)
From: "Andrew K. Haydock"
Subject: Re: Bug Deflectors

> That tape, whatever it is is really
> REALLY strong so if you get this type make sure you put this thing on straight
> the first time because you may not get a second chance. I'm no big advocate
> of using the tape variety and if I hadn't gotten such a good deal I probably
> would have gone with the more traditional bolt-on type of deflector.

Just as I side note, some aid cars body panels are held together with that
tape. I think even some trailers are even being made with that stuff
holding the panels on (not 100% sure though). It seems to me that with
proper pretreatment and cleaning of the material the tape should be just
as strong.

just my $0.02

Andrew

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 13:57:37 -0600
From: John Bartin
Subject: Extended Warranty

Has anyone shopped recently for extended warranty deals with dealer or
aftermarket? If so, where did you find your best deal and what type of
coverage (drive train, bumper to bumper as original, or something
in-between) and what price did you find? Which Ford truck was it for?

Thanks
John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 12:06:43 -0800
From: Randy Rees
Subject: Rough Ride complaint outcome.

Well, to all that followed my rough ride complaints. Only had truck for
about three weeks and never really had time to do any maintenance. Had
time last night to check everything, tire pressures....holy cow were
they high. Dealer or factory had set them to LF/72 R/F67 L/R88 R/R78.
I checked this a couple of times each in disbelief, with a digital
gauge. Also found a shipping block still installed in R/R leaf spring
(which basically made it a non-spring). Other one must have fell out as
no dealer prep was ever done on this vehicle. I was almost ready to
believe I was just a sissy after everyone's "Its a Truck" replies. Well
set front to 48 and rear to 40 psi and removed the shipping block. Wow
what a difference. Today I had the shocks replaced with some Variable
speed sensing shock and made it ride even better, now it rides like a
truck and not a bulldozer. Next is Velvet Rides and maybe removing the
extra rear HD spring. (at least until I find something heavy to haul)

RandyR

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 15:21:12 -0500 (EST)
From: Rex Edmiston
Subject: Banks TransCommand??? 2nd request

Handling:

Hi all,

Anyone using one of these things?

I've got a '95 F-150 SB/SC, 5.8,E4OD, Flowmaster, drop in K&N
and Bilsteins on all 4 corners. This is a Northern California truck.

Truck has 95K miles - a daily driver to from work 100 miles/day.
Truck REALLY works when towing a 4K lb inboard ski boat/trailer and
all the stuff needed for a week in the boonies.

Transmission seems to still be okay but really feels mushy getting
up to freeway speeds.

Would a TransCommand offer improvement and is it worth the cost??
What is the cost anyway???

Thanks for any input........rex

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 16:26:37 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Extended Warranty

John Bartin wrote:
>
> Has anyone shopped recently for extended warranty deals with dealer or
> aftermarket? If so, where did you find your best deal and what type of
> coverage (drive train, bumper to bumper as original, or something
> in-between) and what price did you find? Which Ford truck was it for?
>
> Thanks
> John
>
John,
Haven't bought a new vehicle in a while (last three have been used), but
the last time I did I did not get the warranty. The two times before
that I did and never used them. I usually don't own any vehicle for
more that about 3 yrs. I just get bored w/them and want something new.
I will say however that in my persistence in saying no the last time I
actually found out that some dealers will come WAY down on the pricing
of the ext. warranties. This wasn't a truck and not even a Ford dealer,
but they started out at a round $1000 for the 7/70 ext. warranty. By
the time I finished signing all the paperwork, the guy was offering it
to me for $550! That was kind of hard to pass up, but I did and I sold
that car before the warranty would have kicked in. I think that it
would have been transferable, but I got what I needed out of the car and
even more, so I don't think it would have made a difference in the
resale.
Later,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:08:02 -0500
From: ANTHONY RIFICI
Subject: RE: Bug Deflectors

I have a Lund bug deflector on my Ranger and also had a Lund model on =
the S10 I used to own. They are a little bit pricey as bug deflectors =
go ($60-$70), but I think it is one of the best models out there. I =
have the wrap-around style that protects the fenders as well as the =
hood. They do work, insects impacting the hood at 70+ miles an hour are =
hard to clean off paint and rocks that tend to kick up in that area are =
a nightmare to fix. The Lund unit is larger than most bug deflectors as =
it supports itself off of the hood so you don't have to put those ugly, =
paint damaging, rubber bumpers on the hood. The model bolts to the =
underside of the hood, so even if you want to remove it, the screw holes =
are not visible. I would not tape anything to your truck it is a =
nightmare waiting to happen. =20
Other things to consider: If you live in an area that gets a lot of =
snowfall in the winter, look for a Deflector that is made out of a =
strong thick plastic( like the Lund). My father had a Deflecta-shield =
model on his van. One day he hit the brakes and all the wet snow came =
off the roof and slid down the hood into the deflector, shearing it off =
the van. =20
Dirt will build up where the deflector attaches to the hood and will =
begin to scratch the paint if it is not cleaned out periodically. For =
this I suggest the bolt in style so it can be removed for cleaning. =
Also double-stick tape is usually foam and foam will act like a sponge =
holding water up against the place it attaches. A build up of dirt =
scratching the hood with double-stick tape holding water in the area =
sounds like a recipe for rust. =20
Also, be damn sure that when you drill the holes, that they are in =
exactly the right place. On my S10, I drilled one of the holes 1/32 off =
and put the bolt in anyway. Stresses from the mis-location and changing =
temperatures caused the deflector to crack at the bolt in less than 2 =
years. =20

Anthony Rifici
'94 Ranger Supercab 4.0L-5-Speed

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 15:49:28 -0600 (CST)
From: "Joseph L. Casey"
Subject: Re: Rough Ride complaint outcome.

In response to the post below, I am writing:

Randy, I posted a note for you on the PowerStroke group and I was asking for
more info on the Variable Ride Sensing Shocks. I forgot to thank you in
advance for any information you can provide. Thanks again: once for now, and
once for the previous time when I forgot.
jcasey1 condor.depaul.edu


At 12:06 PM 1/9/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Well, to all that followed my rough ride complaints. Only had truck for
>about three weeks and never really had time to do any maintenance. Had
>time last night to check everything, tire pressures....holy cow were
>they high. Dealer or factory had set them to LF/72 R/F67 L/R88 R/R78.
>I checked this a couple of times each in disbelief, with a digital
>gauge. Also found a shipping block still installed in R/R leaf spring
>(which basically made it a non-spring). Other one must have fell out as
>no dealer prep was ever done on this vehicle. I was almost ready to
>believe I was just a sissy after everyone's "Its a Truck" replies. Well
>set front to 48 and rear to 40 psi and removed the shipping block. Wow
>what a difference. Today I had the shocks replaced with some Variable
>speed sensing shock and made it ride even better, now it rides like a
>truck and not a bulldozer. Next is Velvet Rides and maybe removing the
>extra rear HD spring. (at least until I find something heavy to haul)
>
>RandyR
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 17:21:41 EST
From: TCPFL
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #14

I'm looking for a set of stainless steel headers for my 1998 F-150. It has
the 4.2 liter engine. Does Ford make headers for this engine yet?
If anyone has any information about this I would appreciate it.
Thanks
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 16:40:05 -0600 (CST)
From: "Joseph L. Casey"
Subject: 1999 delivery date

Just got a call from the Ford dealer. The F-350 1999 I ordered on Nov 5 or
10 will be delivered about Feb 16 and the VIN No. is already assigned. That
should help other lurkers and waiters anticipate when their's will arrive.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 18:06:41 -0500
From: John Turner
Subject: Re: Extended Warranty

I found a deal for an extended warranty on the internet, through
www.edmunds.com, that at that time would give you back 100% of what you paid
for the warranty if you did not use it after it had expired. I printed it out
and took it into the dealer with me when I bought my truck. I patiently waited
for the hard sell on the extended warranty, and after he told me how much I
whipped out the deal that I got off the internet. He not only came down to the
same price but kicked in the 100% refund at the dealers expense and put it in
writing. This leads me to believe that there is a huge margin in this.

Randy wrote:

> John Bartin wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone shopped recently for extended warranty deals with dealer or
> > aftermarket? If so, where did you find your best deal and what type of
> > coverage (drive train, bumper to bumper as original, or something
> > in-between) and what price did you find? Which Ford truck was it for?
> >
> > Thanks
> > John
> >
> John,
> Haven't bought a new vehicle in a while (last three have been used), but
> the last time I did I did not get the warranty. The two times before....


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