fordtrucks80up-digest Thursday, April 30 1998 Volume 02 : Number 152
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
I got to thinking about the consequences of that myself... I took the two
back and asked about two longer ones, and as my luck has it, they have to
order them, but they will be in on the barge in two weeks, so I dont have to
wait to long.
I had my stripes removed about 2 months ago. The detailer that did it =
had to do some serious work. But I like the truck alot better without =
the stripes, it gave it a hole new look to me. Anyway I'm impressed you =
did yours yourself. It looked like my guy got into a little more work =
than he thought he was getting into.
Even know this has been hashed out before, but thought I would relay my
I went to the local muffler shop near my house and had what would be
considered a "cat-back" system installed on my 82 stepside. This
consisted of a 2.5" 2 chamber Flowmaster, new 2.5" pipes, a really nice
3.5" chromed resonator and new hangers. The whole process took about
thirty minutes and the price with tax and all was $161.
The truck has the 4.9L six, so the sound is a very pleasant rumble; not
a cackling or farting sound like some of the smaller displacement jap
rides with such an open exhaust...sounds really good.
Preliminary estimates just in from the official Ass Dyno indicate a
power increase across the board; nothing that will snap your neck, but
that's okay. The main goal was to 1) replace the old rotting muffler 2)
attempt to get a little better performance/mileage. I report back on
that as I find out.
Paint in two weeks
I had Exhaust Pros install a catback system on my '95 F150 5.8L last
I was going to do it myself but decided to take it to a shop after
advice from this list. I'm glad I did, thanks to all!
They installed 3" dia tube from the cat to a glasspack, then split into
2-1/2" dia tubes (all aluminized) then out the back with chrome tips for
I asked why not 3" dia all the way back and they said I would lose the
end torque. I'm glad they did it that way, otherwise it may have been
I noticed some power increase, but it seems to be at high RPMs, like
I'm passing. Like you say, pleasant rumble, very nice, not too loud.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:Sean Winters [SMTP:swinters pritchettnet.com]
> Sent:Wednesday, April 29, 1998 11:04 AM
> To:'fordtrucks80up listservice.net'
> Even know this has been hashed out before, but thought I would relay
> personal experience.
> I went to the local muffler shop near my house and had what would be
> considered a "cat-back" system installed on my 82 stepside. This
> consisted of a 2.5" 2 chamber Flowmaster, new 2.5" pipes, a really
> 3.5" chromed resonator and new hangers. The whole process took about
> thirty minutes and the price with tax and all was $161.
> The truck has the 4.9L six, so the sound is a very pleasant rumble;
> a cackling or farting sound like some of the smaller displacement jap
> rides with such an open exhaust...sounds really good.
> Preliminary estimates just in from the official Ass Dyno indicate a
> power increase across the board; nothing that will snap your neck, but
> that's okay. The main goal was to 1) replace the old rotting muffler
> attempt to get a little better performance/mileage. I report back on
> that as I find out.
> Sean Winters
> 82 Stepside
> New everything!
> Paint in two weeks
I may need to replace the rotors and drums on my F-350. I was thinking
of buying factory units, especially since I can get them at a very good
price. However, I'm wondering if anyone has purchased aftermarket units
and what kind of results they've had with them.
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 15:17:00 -0500
From: David Anderson
Subject: Re: Seats
While we're talking seats, I will share a way I've found of improving
the standard bench seat. Some, including myself think the seat back is
too upright and would be more comfortable tilted back some. It would be
hard to change the angle between the seat bottom and back. I'm tall and
in my '90 standard cab I run the seat slid fully back. When I do so
there is still about 1" of space between the headrest and the back
window. I removed the two front bolts attaching the seat to the floor
and inserted about 5/8" spacers I made and put the bolts back. This
tilts the whole seat assembly back to where the headrest just touches
the back glass. To me, the seat is way more comfortable now.
> I may need to replace the rotors and drums on my F-350. I was thinking
> of buying factory units, especially since I can get them at a very good
I havn't had my rear drums long, but so far they seem to be fine for my
bronco. I got both sides for $60.00 at Autozone which gives a two year
warranty. Just how cheap can you get the OE drums. Live near
Alabama ? :-)
'83 Fsize BRONCO,Stock I-6,"The BROWN BULL",33x12.5x15
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)
>First question -- how important are the keepers on the spring
>packs (the 'C' shaped things that hold the leaves together)
>and why would they have been removed? I need to replace
>the spring packs, don't I?
Those pieces keep the individual leaves from splaying out in different
directions as the springs work. They are important, unless you want to
periodically loosen the axle-to-spring U-bolts and realign the spring
leaves. Removing those clips shouldn't adversely affect the springs
otherwise, so I would think your spring packs are ok. I would recommend
replacing the clips, though.
>My other question is about the transmission and transfer case.
>The transmission is a four speed w/ overdrive. Beyond that I
>haven't managed to identify it (the sticker on the door pillar
>says '5' under transmission.)
As you discovered, you have the ZF HD 5-speed transmission. That was the
HD manual transmission used from 1987 until the end of HD (F250/F350)
production in 1997. It probably was a late-87 production option.
>It may not be original though (the motor appears to be out
>of an '83.) Any suggestions? The transfer case is a BW
>13-56 I think. How do I go about finding a spare of each
>(3rd gear synchro is going and it won't stay in 4L)?
>Any variations between applications or can I just go down to
> my favorite salvage yard and not worry what they came out of?
The Diesel was not available in Ford pickups until 1984. (Early production
84s would have a 1983 date code.) The ZF transmission was not used until
The only variations I know of in the Ford pickup ZF transmission are the
gear ratios. There were at least two different sets of gear ratios
available. (Maybe close-ratio and wide-ratio?) I don't know what the
ratios were exactly, or how you could identify them.
The transfer case on all over 8500# GVW F250s and all F350s was the BW
1356. That case was first used in 1984 F250s and 1980 F350s.
It should be fairly easy to find both gearboxes at a salvage yard, but they
are not too cheap, since they are still pretty current and gearboxes in
general seem to command high prices, even as junk. Seems like the ZFs I
have seen are going for around $750 at the cheapest. You might be able to
get a BW case for around $200.
> Just how cheap can you get the OE drums. Live near
> Alabama ? :-)
I don't know the price yet, but I can get most of my OEM Ford parts at
the same price the Ford Regional Distribution Center pays for 'em. The
mark-up from the Distribution Center to the dealer and from the dealer
to the customer is substantial.
I am wondering what the cubic inches are for the 6.6 liter,and is this a big
block or small block?
Also does a 1982 F-250 xl 4x4 6.6 liter come from the factory with catalytic
Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 19:11:26 -0700
Subject: Re: Brake Rotors and Drums
I tried a few aftermarket companies that make stainless steel rotors
and rear drum to rotor conversion kits. They have them for the
F-150's, but not for my F-250 HD, so I'd assume no for the F-350's
too. My front rotors are in dire need of replacement, but you know,
the same 'ol thing...$$...not enough of it. I've gotten quite price
range too. If you can get them at a low enough cost to justify
shipping to Cleveland Oh., could you get a price for me. It's an '87
F-250 Heavy Duty (Dana 50) 4x4, 8-lug, 8600 GVW. I think the front
axle GWR is 4600. Some of the stores I called wanted to know that.
Let me know if you can.
Sheldon Belinkoff wrote:
> > Just how cheap can you get the OE drums. Live near
> > Alabama ? :-)
Are you sure it's a 6.6 liter? I never heard of Ford making a 403?
The rough calculator in converting between liters and inches (cubic, I
mean) is 61. 6.6 x 61 = 402.6. Olds and Pontiac both put 6.6 liters
in the late 70's early 80's Trans Am and they were 403 and 400 cubic
inches, respectively. Ch*vy made a 402, and, come to think of it,
Ford made the 351M (modified, 400), but don't know the classification
for that one. You'll have to ask M-block Devotee, Dave....hehe. If I
remember the recent postings, your truck was not available as a Heavy
Duty (above 8500 GVWR), therefore, it should have converters. My '87
is 8600 GVW and has none.
Batst bmw wrote:
> I am wondering what the cubic inches are for the 6.6 liter,and is this a big
> block or small block?
> Also does a 1982 F-250 xl 4x4 6.6 liter come from the factory with catalytic
> +--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
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Those F-150 Chrome mirrors also have a bar that extends under neath the
'wing' window and bolts to the inner door shell. You have to remove the door
panel to get to it so keep that in mind also.
81 F-150 4x4
88 Mark VII
I have an 88 Ford F250 Supercab XLT 4x4 with a newer 7.3 Diesel. I'm still
considering whether or not to part the vehicle out or to repair it. I
flipped it on it's side after a run in with a deer. The damage that is
evident is the left fronnt fender, the door (possibly door support?) and
the bed is tweaked. when the towing co. did the extraction it looked like
they might have bent a leaf spring. I'm curious as to what kind of prices
I could get on the major items like engine/trans/transfer/axles etc. Or
should I replace the fender/door/bed and try selling it? The truck has
136K on it and the motor I think has about 70K on it. Any info and
opinions would be most helpful.=20
Well I am now buying a 91 Ford S/C XLT diesel with the the E4OD
transmission after totalling my 88 F250. I have a few questions about the
transmission having read up everything on the web on them and talking to a
few tranny shops in town. The transmission seems to shift OK, if a tad
harsh. I know that ford has updated the transmission in the past 2-3 years
and the local tranny shops are now doing the same updates. I did get some
conflicting informationabout the OD use around town and when towing. I
also had conflicting info about the computer(?) replacement.=20
1. Can anyone knowledgable about the E4OD tell me whaqt should and
shouldn't be done when rebuilding the transmission? Does the computer get
replaced? Or some other electronic part?=20
2. On Overdrive use, I was told to never use OD while towing and also to
use it but to turn it off if it started shifting back and forth. What
about in-town use, use it or turn it off?=20
A couple other things I noted were a ABS brake light remaining on. I would
guess that this is a sensor malfunction? I'm keeping the 88 for parts and
I could try swappining the sensor out and see if that clears it up.
1 power window doesn't work and neither do the power door locks. Since the
88 has both of them and they work, I would assume that they could be
Any and all comments would be most welcome on this pickup and
transmission. Thanks for any help!=20
> Yo Warren:
> Those pieces keep the individual leaves from splaying out in different
> directions as the springs work. They are important, unless you want to
> periodically loosen the axle-to-spring U-bolts and realign the spring
> leaves. Removing those clips shouldn't adversely affect the springs
> otherwise, so I would think your spring packs are ok. I would recommend
> replacing the clips, though.
Makes sense. Sounds like it's non-critical in the short term so I can
move them down on the list of stuff to fix.
> As you discovered, you have the ZF HD 5-speed transmission. That was the
[...snip... many informative words removed to save bandwidth]
> get a BW case for around $200.
> Good luck.
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