fordtrucks80up-digest Sunday, April 26 1998 Volume 02 : Number 149



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Rusted rear fenders [John Cassis ]
Re: Rear Fender Rust ["Bowman, John A" ]
RE: Tool Cleanup ["Chad Royse" ]
Re: Tool Cleanup ["Rick Wojciechowski" ]
Re: Tool Cleanup [JDavis1277 ]
Re: Shocks ["Casey Vandor" ]
RE: Rear fender rust ["Smeins, Larry" ]
RE: How much oil, What filter ["Smeins, Larry" ]
Carb trouble ["Harold Day" ]
Re: Carb trouble ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Re: Tool Cleanup, Flammability [sbest ]
Lousy Brakes ["Mike Miller" ]
Re: Lousy Brakes ["Rick Wojciechowski" ]
RE: Lousy Brakes ["John D. Bowne" ]
6.9l Diesel oil cooler leaking ["BRET LUTER" ]
Stock Carb vs. Holley Projection. ["Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Tarnished Trim [John Meade ]
5 spds ["Randy Kindler" ]
Re: Shocks [Randy ]
Re: Tool Cleanup, Flammability [Randy ]
Lava Liner [Ken Justice ]
Re: Tool Cleanup [Hawk sktc.net]
Re: Tool Cleanup, Flammability [Josh Dronkers ]
A little Vin decodeing [Tyler Abbott ]
Noise [Jason DiSalvo ]
Re: A little Vin decodeing [Robert Kennedy ]
Re: Noise [Robert Kennedy ]
Re: A little Vin decodeing [PhilDyson ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 06:34:18 -0500
From: John Cassis
Subject: Rusted rear fenders

You paint the stuff on. I think it comes out white and dries to a clear =
color. I dont know if paint will stick to it or not. I used it on the =
underside areas not on the painted areas. But I had spots that were =
rusting all the way through that I just put it on the underside (like on =
the bottom of the bed) and the bottom of the bed stopped rusting.=20

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed
Texas is a State of Mind

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 09:21:56 -0700
From: "Bowman, John A"
Subject: Re: Rear Fender Rust

Croth2:

I have an '83 F100 that has spent all it's years in the rust belt of
Nova Scotia, Canada. Ever since new it has been undercoated with
oil....under hood, doors etc. I am putting fresh paint on it this week
and have checked the rear fenders above the wheel wells and found only a
hole about the size of your little finger which was patched with new
metal. The doors and hood are just like new. The truck has spent its
life on the farm as a work truck with only Mother Nature to wash the
wheel wells.The oil under coat may not be very enviromentally friendly
but it keeps 2 tons of metal from ending up rusting in a junk yard!
The key to getting good protection for the wheel wells is to spray the
under coating down in the stake hole just above the rear wheel wells.
- --



*************************************
J.A. Bowman
Customer Services Group Supervisor
MT&T Circuit Provisioning Centre
Rm221
3601 Joesph Howe Dr.
Halifax, Nova Scotia
B3L 4H8
PH: (902) 486-3848
FAX: (902) 423-4090
email: jbowman MTT.CA

************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 08:46:19 -0400
From: "Chad Royse"
Subject: RE: Tool Cleanup

Gasoline CAN be used safely, with common sense. When I clean a set of axle
bearings, for example, I dump about 1.5" to 2" of gasoline in a coffee can
take it outside, submerse the bearings, and clean them with an old brush. I
then blow them dry with an air compressor, and repack. You definitely need
to exercise caution, but no need to ban the stuff.

Chad

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-fordtrucks80up ListService.net
[mailto:owner-fordtrucks80up ListService.net]On Behalf Of sbest
Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 1998 10:25 AM
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Cc: Hawk sktc.net
Subject: Re: Tool Cleanup

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

WHOA! STOP! Do not use any gas for cleaning parts! Ever!

%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%

Imagine a human torch! A static spark from your clothing, or any
metal or friction contact might set off this bomb.

Add any gasoline to diesel fuel and the whole mixture becomes as
flamable as the gasoline due to the vapours given off by the gasoline.

Kerosene or diesel MAY be useful expedients, but varsol, WD40, or a
purpose bought cleaner from your parts store would be a better idea.
Our own shop uses a contract service to supply and clean the tanks with
their own low flamability fluid.

I find the best parts cleaner is laundry detergent and hot water.
I put on a face shield and use a wire brush on the mini-grinder to
get the tough stuff off. Just remember to spray it well with a rust
preservative if you don't assemble right away.


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools, Bronco and some shooting stuff too.




+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| List removal instructions on the website. |
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 08:04:51 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: Tool Cleanup

Chad Royse wrote:

> Gasoline CAN be used safely, with common sense. When I clean a set of axle
> bearings, for example, I dump about 1.5" to 2" of gasoline in a coffee can
> take it outside, submerse the bearings, and clean them with an old brush. I
> then blow them dry with an air compressor, and repack. You definitely need
> to exercise caution, but no need to ban the stuff.

In other words, thats NOT a good time to take a cigarrette brake ?. :-)


Thanks guys, I have never thought about diesel before for cleaning
parts, I have always used a parts brush and REGULAR gas.

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Stock I-6 "The BROWN BULL"
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 09:05:16 EDT
From: JDavis1277
Subject: Re: Tool Cleanup

I cant imagine why anyone would use expensive diesel fuel as a solvent
substitute. Use solvent for cleanup. Its cheaper and safer. BTW, diesel
fuel is NOT simply gasoline with oil added. If it was, it would be pretty
expensive. Lets see, take 7 quarts of oil at about $1.00 per quart and 1
quart of gasoline at about $.25 for a total cost of $7.25 for 2 gallons. I
think I'll just stick with real diesel. If you do a lot of mechanical work
you can buy parts washers which have replaceable filter elements to make the
solvent last longer. Use solvent, please. Butch Davis-

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 06:36:13 -0800
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: Re: Shocks

>>>Casey,
If you know how to put a socket on a ratchet you can change your own
shocks so save yourself a few bucks. If you're not sure all the bolts
will back out and don't have a torch, try loosening all of them
first. If they don't 'break' then maybe take it to the shop after
you've tried PB-1 or WD-40.
Later,
>>>>Randy

No, I can change them no problem, but the shocks are 16.00 bucks more a
piece. I was curious 6if anyone had used them, if so, were they worth the
36.00? I try to do all my own work, that is the only way I learn how to the
stuff.......

Thanks
Casey

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 08:51:13 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: RE: Rear fender rust

The stuff you want is EXTEND and its made by LockTight. It comes in
aerosol which is lacquer based or in brush on which is latex based. I
prefer the brush on because it will penetrate better than the aerosol.
Either makes a very good base coat for painting over. I bought the
brush on variety in quarts from a LockTight distributor. There are
several other similar products on the market but I have only used
EXTEND .

Larry

>Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 23:57:09 EDT
>From: Croth2
>Subject: Re: Rear fender rust

>In a message dated 4/23/98 11:48:27 AM, you wrote:


Walmart,
>HiLo, ect. carries it. Its in a black palstic bottle. But you paint
this stuff
>on the rusted area and it will kill the rust. Changes the orange rust
colored
>spots on the metal to black and solid.>>

>Does it come in an aerosol can or do you have to paint it on? will
paint
>stick to it?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 08:59:42 -0600
From: "Smeins, Larry"
Subject: RE: How much oil, What filter

I haven't measure how much drains out of my 95 Powerstroke but I know
when I put in 14 quarts it comes right up to the full mark.
The Powerstroke filter is different than the early 6.9s and 7.3s. They
are readily available at Wal-Mart.

Larry

>Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 02:08:34 -0400
>From: Claude King
>Subject: How much oil, What filter

>What is the average quantity of oil need for 7.3 diesel, I know the
capacity, but how much really comes out?
>Does the 99 ford 7.3 take the standard for oil filter that they used in
everything from my 66's to 91"s?

>//ck

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 10:44:31 -0500
From: "Harold Day"
Subject: Carb trouble

I've got an 84 F150 Supercab with the 5.8L engine and 4 bbl. It's been
diagnosed with a power valve problem. It's had problems on cooler mornings
with stalling and just wouldn't run very well until it warmed. Yesterday, on
an 80 degree day it exhibited the same problems. On acceleration shortly
after it's started, it almost stalls and has very little throttle response.
It's never acted like this before.

Thoughts??

Also should I look into a carb rebuild or look at replacing the carb. I'm
leaning at a replacement, as I'm not real confident in my abilities to put
in a carb kit. If I do replace
it what should I look at?

Thanks in advance.
Harold

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 10:52:18 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: Carb trouble

Harold Day wrote:

> I've got an 84 F150 Supercab with the 5.8L engine and 4 bbl. It's been
> diagnosed with a power valve problem.
>
> Also should I look into a carb rebuild or look at replacing the carb.

If it's a Holley, they are easy to rebuild. Your problem might just be that the
thing is 14 years old and just gummed up inside. Be sure to get some carb
cleaner (the dip where you can submerse all of the parts--not the aerosol
spray). The metering block is the critical item, housing the power valve and
main jets. It is essential to keep these clean, as well as the transfer tubes
to the venturii. The metering block is about a half inch thick and is between
the main body and the float bowl.

Be sure to check out new replacements, though. Sometimes they're cheap enough
to not make it worth the effort and mess of a rebuild.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 22:57:40 -0300
From: sbest
Subject: Re: Tool Cleanup, Flammability

>Subject: Re: Tool Cleanup
>
>> SBest
>> Add any gasoline to diesel fuel and the whole mixture becomes as
>> flamable as the gasoline due to the vapours given off by the gasoline.

>From: Josh Dronkers
>
>This is definitely wrong. All diesel is, is gasoline with oil added to it. The
>oil makes it very hard to ignite. You can take a mixture of 60% diesel to 40%
>gas and still not be in a ratio that will sustain fire. Diesel's fire point
>(minimum temperature at which vapors will sustain combustion) is over 100
>degrees. It is only classified as a combustible liquid. Adding gasoline will
>bring down the fire point temperature, but it would need to be at least 80
>degrees and then it still won't be explosive. I work in a fire department, and
>our training fires we have used 50/50 mixes and haven't been able to light
>them. We now use 25/75 diesel to gas, and that provides the right mixture to
>ignite a room slowly and safely.
>
>My personal opinion on clean up is just to use straight diesel. I clean all my
>parts and tools with just that. But nothing beats just straight solvent.



Josh, if anything this time on the internet has taught me it is not to
unquestioningly accept old paradigms I have heard or read but to check
them out for myself. I should back up my statements with references and
experience as you have. I am a 38 year old Interprovincially Certified
Industrial Mechanic and Interprovincially Certified Machinist. I am a
partial owner of a transmission shop. I was a Transport Tech (driver!)
in the Army Reserve for several years, I have had shop, firefighting,
fuel and lubricant technology courses up the ying-yang.

First off, it has been drilled into me repeatedly in all of this
DO NOT USE EXTREMELY INFLAMMABLE FUELS WITHOUT EXTREME CARE.
The use of gasoline or naptha to clean yourself or parts was expressly
mentioned as dangerous and foolhardy many time due to the fire hazard.
I do not feel I need to experiment with this postulate.


Second, my various fuel and lubricant technology courses have stated
that gasoline and diesel fuel are completely different compounds,
in fact, mixtures of compounds, but from entirely different streams of
the distillation/cracking process. Diesel is not just gas with oil in it.

My comment:
>> Add any gasoline to diesel fuel and the whole mixture becomes as
>> flamable as the gasoline due to the vapours given off by the gasoline.
Comes straight out of my 1986 VW Jetta Turbo-Diesel owners manual about
using gasoline to assist winter starting and the dangers inherent with it.

After reading your post and completely accepting your experience,
I felt I had to test this bit of wisdom. I drained off 100ml of diesel
from the monster van's fuel filter. Into this, on the backyard picnic
table with a larger can to smother it ans an extinguisher handy,
I threw a lit match. It and several other went out instantly.

Now to this small can of diesel fuel I added 10ml of gasoline from
the lawn tractor's gas can making about 10% gas in the diesel.
This time when I threw a match in it caught fire, every time, with a
slow smokey flame. No need to increase the gas to 25%.

I did increase the diesel by about another 100ml to about 5% gas mix.
At this ratio I had a couple "misfires" when a lit match would not ignite
the diesel/gas mix. It still lit over 80% of the time. It would seem there
is less tendency for the mix to ignite as your fire department has noticed
but that no doubt wind, temperature, fume collection and ignition source
are all factors in the ignition hazzard. I do not believe the flashpoint
has been increased, just the amount of vapours reduced.

As an aside, our insurance agent will not allow us to store used motor
oil in tanks inside the shop, the small amounts of residual gasoline in
it create an explosion/fire hazard as the volatile potion evaporates and
collects. Used transmission fluid is not under the same constraints.

With all respect Josh, thank you for pushing me to physically check
this out. I hope the point and result of all of this rambling is more
care with flammable fluids and not using them for cleaners.

Using laundry detergent and hot water is safe and cheap.


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools, Bronco and some shooting stuff too.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 10:17:14 -0700
From: "Mike Miller"
Subject: Lousy Brakes

My 85 F250 4x4 diesel (w Banks turbo) has lousy brakes. They just don't stop
well. Brand new rear wheel cyliners and shoes. Front pads at 85%. Had it
checked 3 times now by different places - front calipers check out good. I
put a vacuum gauge on the vacuum pump - reads 22. When I step on the brake
pedal, it drops to about 14 and holds - if I pump the pedal, it drops to
about 5. The booster will hold vacuum overnite, so I dont see how it can be
leaking.
Does anyone have the procedure for testing the vacuum pump? Any ideas as to
what to look for? I can not lock the brakes up no matter how much pressure I
put on the pedal. The brake shop was lucky enuf to have an identical truck
in the same time mine was there and the shop said there was a world of
difference between the brakes on the trucks. I really dont want to start
throwing parts at it in increments of $200 to replace the pump, booster, MC,
calipers, hoses, etc.. I tow a 28 foot travel trailer with this thing and I
just dont trust the brakes enough to take it thru the mountains
Also, I had the truck aligned - brakes were lousy going into the alignment
shop, but stopped straight. Truck pulled slightly to the right when going
down the road. They replaced the camber plates to get more adjustment so
they could align it to spec. Truck came out of the alignment shop driving
nice and straight, but the brakes pull to the left - enuf that I have to
provide right steering input to keep it straight. Any ideas on what may have
caused that? I dont see where the alignment shop messed with anything brake
related. Tire pressures are even.

TIA,
mike miller
Please check out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://pw1.netcom.com/~mikemilr/enkei.html for a picture of
the truck and a wheel I am searching for.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 13:05:50 -0500
From: "Rick Wojciechowski"
Subject: Re: Lousy Brakes

Mike Miller wrote:

> I had the truck aligned - brakes were lousy going into the alignment
> shop, but stopped straight. Truck pulled slightly to the right when going
> down the road. They replaced the camber plates to get more adjustment so
> they could align it to spec. Truck came out of the alignment shop driving
> nice and straight, but the brakes pull to the left - enuf that I have to
> provide right steering input to keep it straight. Any ideas on what may have
> caused that? I dont see where the alignment shop messed with anything brake
> related. Tire pressures are even.

Mike,
As a matter of fact I have to replace my booster. $70.00 at Auto Zone.
I know I have to replace mine because EVERY time I even touch the
brakes I hear the vacuum sound(hissing). I don't know what to tell you
how to test it though. I just know when it goes bad. As far as the brakes
go, if you are pulling left, then it is your right rear brake shoes that
needs some adjustment. What is happening is that the right rear shoes
are grabbing before the left rear shoes. Hence, your truck goes in the
path of least resistance. Either you have to loosen the right rear brake
shoes to match the looser left rear, or vice-versa tighten the left side
rear brake shoes to match the tighter right side. You use the star wheel
to tighten or loosen. Now after you adjust either side to match the
other then you need to go down a side street and hit your brakes a
few times. Once every 20-30 seconds for about 5 times. The
rear shoes should be self adjusting. WAIT A MINUTE. Try this
back up trick first and see if that cures the pulling..

- --
Thanks,
Rick Wojo
'83 Stock I-6 "The BROWN BULL"
'92 Mstng 5.0L
'95 eclipse-Wife's(For Sale)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 11:08:56 -0700
From: "John D. Bowne"
Subject: RE: Lousy Brakes

On Friday, April 24, 1998 10:17 AM, Mike Miller [SMTP:JoMi email.msn.com]
wrote:
> My 85 F250 4x4 diesel (w Banks turbo) has lousy brakes.

Mike,

I had an older Ch*** for a while that had what seemed liked really poor
brakes. I found that one of the front calipers was frozen, and the other
was stuck on so that it was dragging. The truck actually drove OK, but
would pull to the unfrozen side when initially braking, then after repeated
attempts would go straight. The rear brakes were non-exist. The rear brakes
were discovered to be filled with a mixture of gear oil, brake dust, and
metal shards.

Apparently, after trying to stop 3 tons of truck with one brake caliper, it
started to fade, at which point it couldn't generate enough braking power
to even pull to one side. After fixing the two front calipers (rebuild
kits), I got the stopping power back. Later, after fixing the rears (drums
were worn 1/4" beyond limits, into the casting voids), I could actually
skid the tires. I probably could of with just the fronts, but it was a bit
squirrely.

BTW, I've stopped buying used trucks with mystery mileage on them.....


I hope that this helps,

johnbo
'97 F350 CC PowerStroke 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 11:14:40 PDT
From: "BRET LUTER"
Subject: 6.9l Diesel oil cooler leaking

Hey all you digesters-
The oil cooler on my '85 F350 6.9l diesel is leaking antifreeze (not
really leaking, more like seeping). I got the o-ring seals +
block-to-cooler housing gaskets today and I'm going to tear into it this
weekend. Any and all hints, ideas, nightmare stories, etc. would be
appreciated to make this job go easier.

Thanks in advance, Bret Luter

p.s.- I've got the Chilton's manual + the factory manual for reference,
it looks pretty straight forward (?).....

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 11:21:03 -0700
From: "Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Subject: Stock Carb vs. Holley Projection.

I'd like some feedback from folks who have made the above switch.

My 15 year old carb is dog tired and am considering switching to a Holley
Projection System since I am planning on keeping the truck for a while.

Has any one done this before. ?

How do you feel about the swap now that it is done?

Pros ?

Cons ?

Did you go 2bbl or 4 bbl conversion? (year truck?).

How's the reliability?

Was set-up easy or a pain in the arse to get it right?

Are you glad you did it?

Did the system you install include the closed loop O2 sensor set-up or the
simpler open loop system?

Many thanks.. Walt

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 19:06:12 -0400
From: John Meade
Subject: Tarnished Trim

Anyone have an effective way to clean, polish and protect the aluminum
trim around the windshield. There are also a couple of aluminum trim
pieces above and below the grill. Ford wants far too much $ to
replace. Besides, here is sunny, albeit hot summers, new trim would not
hold up long anyway. I've tried 0000 steel wool, but the oxidation is
holding on. Thanks, John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 18:09:59 -0600
From: "Randy Kindler"
Subject: 5 spds

Does anyone know why the ZF 5spd was never offered in 351 F150s. I know the
Mazda tranny was never offered with the 351 because it couldn't handle the
torque. Some one on the list said that the ZF was offered with F250 351s.
Why not the F150s? Would it fit? I love my 351, but I wish it had a Granny
gear, or at least a lower 1st than the automatic has.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 20:47:31 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Shocks

No Prob Casey, you had mentioned the price didn't include labor, so I
thought you were going to have them installed. No biggie, my bag.
Later,
Randy

Casey Vandor wrote:
>
> >>>Casey,
> If you know how to put a socket on a ratchet you can change your own
> shocks so save yourself a few bucks. If you're not sure all the bolts
> will back out and don't have a torch, try loosening all of them
> first. If they don't 'break' then maybe take it to the shop after
> you've tried PB-1 or WD-40.
> Later,
> >>>>Randy
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 20:54:03 -0700
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Tool Cleanup, Flammability

sbest wrote:
>

> Now to this small can of diesel fuel I added 10ml of gasoline from
> the lawn tractor's gas can making about 10% gas in the diesel.
> This time when I threw a match in it caught fire, every time, with a
> slow smokey flame. No need to increase the gas to 25%.
>
[snip]

> As an aside, our insurance agent will not allow us to store used motor
> oil in tanks inside the shop, the small amounts of residual gasoline in
> it create an explosion/fire hazard as the volatile potion evaporates and
> collects. Used transmission fluid is not under the same constraints.
>
Good thing your insurance guy didn't see you doing this test, eh?
hehehe :)
Later,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 20:16:10 -0700
From: Ken Justice
Subject: Lava Liner

I thought I knew my liners. What is a Lava Liner?
Ken Justice
Discover the Working Mat!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.workingmat.com

------------------------------

Date: 24 Apr 1998 21:41:02 EDT
From: Hawk sktc.net
Subject: Re: Tool Cleanup

FO>I cant imagine why anyone would use expensive diesel fuel as a solvent
FO>substitute. Use solvent for cleanup. Its cheaper and safer. BTW, diesel
FO>fuel is NOT simply gasoline with oil added. If it was, it would be pretty
FO>expensive. Lets see, take 7 quarts of oil at about $1.00 per quart and 1
FO>quart of gasoline at about $.25 for a total cost of $7.25 for 2 gallons. I
FO>think I'll just stick with real diesel. If you do a lot of mechanical work
FO>you can buy parts washers which have replaceable filter elements to make the
FO>solvent last longer. Use solvent, please. Butch Davis-

Gee Butch, here in Kansas off-road diesel is $ .65 a gallon. The last
solvent I was able to buy was $2.05. I think diesel is very much
cheaper than solvent. That is a moot point, however, as all of my
previous suppliers have stopped selling it. They give EPA regulations
as the reason. I had Safety Kleen for a while, but they wanted $90
every three months for their smallest cleaner (5 gallons). So in
effect, I was paying $18 a gallon for solvet. Diesel is looking better
at $.65.

The point of this thread is that solvent as we used to know it is
unavailable, at least where I'm at, and we are discussing possible
alternatives. I would gladly pay 2 bucks or so if I could find some.

Buck Shoff

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 21:58:26 -0900
From: Josh Dronkers
Subject: Re: Tool Cleanup, Flammability

You have done your homework, I'm impressed.

Since I wrote that last message, I asked some questions to people up here in
Fairbanks. Seems that I am right for my neck of the woods. Fairbanks is a
terribly dry (humidity) town, and it affects our fuels, as evident in my
personal experiences. So dry, in fact, that when I talked to the local Ford
dealer, they informed me that they change out injectors on diesel motors three
times more often than would be necessary for any motor in the lower 48. Seems
the dry fuel tends to gunk up the nozzles. I have to reason that for this
phenomena, my experiences might be different and I might be wrong in
suggesting it acceptable to use those mixtures for use in other climates.

As for the practical use of soap and hot water, I find it very difficult to
use. Diesel seems to dissolve the grime better. It will get in the little
cracks and loosen all the caked on oil and dirt.

I am an advocate of safe use of combustible and flammable liquids though. My
parts cleaning bin has a lid that is always shut when not in use, and I always
dry my parts in a well ventilated area (Difficult to find in sub-zero
weather). I have yet to respond to an emergency involving diesel only. I have,
however, gone to a fully involved shop fire where the mechanics had not purged
and cleaned the gas tank before working on it. The end result of that shop was
an old foundation.

Thank you Steve for correcting me on this issue. As for me, I'll still
continue to use diesel. I feel safe using the stuff, but to each his own.


Joshua Dronkers
Fairbanks Alaksa

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 23:02:53 -0700
From: Tyler Abbott
Subject: A little Vin decodeing

I'm just checking some Vin's for a buddy of mine, who is lookin' at an 81 F250.
Here's what he has told me:
351M
T-18
4X4
Reg cab.
7300 GVW
Full floating rear axle, code:C7
Now here's what he'd like:
Is this a F250 Heavy Duty or light
What model axles & Ratio
What model Xfer case
I check these things myself, but I don't have the time.
Thanks Everyone
Tyler

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 09:54:35 -0500
From: Jason DiSalvo
Subject: Noise

Hi huys, A month ago I got a new 1997 F250 HeavyDuty. It was a left over. I
got it with 2 miles on it. It now has 890 miles on it. I have a problem.
Everytime I turn the wheel or come to a stop I here a squeek under the
seat. I brought it to ford and they said it was a frame rivit and they put
a fix kit on. The squeek was ok for a day. Then came back, I brought it
back they then tightened the bolts on the cross-member. It came back. I
brought it back the tightened bolts again. It's back today. Does anyone
have any Ideas? I think it is coming from the fromt left leaf spring? But I
dont know.

- -Jason DiSalvo
disalvo tco.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 12:26:34 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: A little Vin decodeing

At 11:02 PM 4/24/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I'm just checking some Vin's for a buddy of mine, who is lookin' at an 81
F250.
>Here's what he has told me:
>351M
Chilton's says no 351M after 79 (76 to 86 manual)What is the engine code
from the Vin?
>T-18
>4X4
>Reg cab.
>7300 GVW
>Full floating rear axle, code:C7
No C7 code listed at all, 81 had D7 (4.10), 23 (3.31), 24 (4.10), H2
(3.50), H4 (3.25) H7 (3.00) and H9 (4.11)
>Now here's what he'd like:
>Is this a F250 Heavy Duty or light
There is no LD HD designation only Dana 44 IFS or Dana 44 IFS HD
>What model axles & Ratio
>What model Xfer case
Three cases available NP 208 (smooth case), Borg-Warner 13-45 (finned
case), and the Borg-Warner 12-56 (Automatic)
>I check these things myself, but I don't have the time.
>Thanks Everyone
>Tyler

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Apr 1998 12:29:22 -0700
From: Robert Kennedy
Subject: Re: Noise

I think some posts earlier covered this... some folks used nylon shim
between cross member and frame.

Bob


At 09:54 AM 4/25/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi huys, A month ago I got a new 1997 F250 HeavyDuty. It was a left over. I
>got it with 2 miles on it. It now has 890 miles on it. I have a problem.
>Everytime I turn the wheel or come to a stop I here a squeek under the
>seat.
>-Jason DiSalvo
>disalvo tco.com
>
>
>+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |....

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