fordtrucks80up-digest Saturday, April 11 1998 Volume 02 : Number 134
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
kdkdkkdkdkkdk [greg ]
Re: cb - Amplifier [Bill Funk ]
Air Snorkel [Joseph/Rae Mead ]
RE: cb - Amplifier ["Giddens, Scott" ]
TP Sensor [John Cassis ]
RE: V-4 Anything? ["Posluszny, Walt (posl)" ]
Engine Noise [David Anderson ]
Auto Krafters [Ken Payne ]
'89 E150 Heater Core [Bob & Jay Hartman-Berrier ]
ADMIN: List and web provider solution found. [Ken Payne
Stereo troubles [Bryant Smith ]
Re: Stereo troubles [Joshua W Dronkers ]
RE: I-6 running rich ["Posluszny, Walt (posl)" ]
Ballast resistor [Joshua W Dronkers ]
RE: Brake Test ["Posluszny, Walt (posl)" ]
Re: ADMIN: List and web provider solution found. [Run351 ]
Engine modifications ["Ronald Kreft" ]
Re: Engine modifications [Run351 ]
Re: ADMIN: List and web provider solution found. [Ken Payne
Re: '89 E150 Heater Core [Robert Kennedy ]
Re: Engine Noise ["Mike Miller" ]
radius arm bushing replacement/ tranny ?? ["BRET LUTER"
Re: 5.8L efi ["Casey Vandor" ]
low oil pressure 302 engine .. [greg ]
Re: radius arm bushing replacement/ tranny ?? [FSTFORDS
Re: New to Group [Randy ]
Re: cb [Randy ]
> From: Vance
> Subject: Re: cb - Amplifier (long reply)
> Scott Giddens wrote:
> > You can buy them at any ham store or
> > catalog shop like Ham Radio Outlet,
> > www.hamradio.com, or at AES,
> > www.aesham.com. You don't need a ham
> > license to purchase them.
> But you need a ham license to legally transmit with them.
> 11 meters (CB's) will only work long
> > distance in an incremental radius of 1500
> > miles anyway (1500, 3000, 4500, etc.) more
> > power will only bounce more. So why would
> > you need more power unless all you want to
> > do is broadcast to the whole world. Something
> > I would not suggest doing with illegal equipment.
> > Scott
> It is illegal to make a citizen's band contact over 150 miles away or
> use more than 4 watts power. The licensing requirements for CB were
> removed years ago, but the FCC rules remain intact.
It's actually illegal to *POSESS* an RF amplifier for CB use.
They make no sense, anyway. Being able to transmit 1500 miles does you
no good if you can't hear the reply. Most such heaters are used to
simply step on the other users, something I'm sure those here wouldn't
want to do.
Witht he no-code Tech HAM licenses available, CB amps make no sense
anymore. Just listen to those who use them, and ask yourself if you
really want to be like that. I sure don't.
I have a 97 F-250 4x4 Diesel and am thinking about putting a deep water fording
snorkel on her. Has anybody that has ever fabricated one of these type of setups
before, or is there someplace that makes a bolt on kit?
Not completely true, in an emergency, I may use any
means available to me to protect life and property.
I would like to add that hams get very involved in tracking
down illegal transmitters and from what I have seen they are
extremely good at it. The FCC is not the people you should
be worried about, hams get *extreme* pleasure tracking offenders
down just for the pure fun of it.
> ----Original Message-----
> From:Vance [SMTP:vancelw koyote.com]
> Sent:Thursday, April 09, 1998 9:36 PM
> To:fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Subject:Re: cb - Amplifier (long reply)
> It is illegal to make a citizen's band contact over 150 miles away or
> use more than 4 watts power.
At idle speed it had a small miss. It did not seem like a miss while =
cruising, but when I would shift gears the truck would not idle back =
down when you let off the gas and pushed in the clutch. It would hang =
and then real slowly creap down to about 2000 RPM's. When it started to =
do this you could stop turn the truck off and re-start it and it would =
run fine for a while. At idle speed it ran ruff. I put in new plugs, =
wires, cap, rottor, pcv valve. I ran 1pt of tolune with a tank of gas =
thinking I had an injector cloggeg. Nothing no difrence at all. By the =
way tolune is what most injector cleaners mainly consist of. Before the =
tolune I tried using injector cleaner twice. Since the new TP sensor was =
installed the first thing I noticed was the truck was idling smooth and =
the throttle does not hang up while shifting gears. It seems to be =
running much better. I'm taking a little road trip sunday or monday and =
am going to see if the milage has improved. Anyway I let you know if it =
did. I hope this helps you out.
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed
Texas is a State of Mind
> Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 22:09:08 -0800 (PST)
> From: Randall WerSubject: Re: Got my Truck
> I know there is no 4 cylinder in a ford truck. I have also never heard of
> a V4 in anything, lots of I4's, but never a V4.
Didn't Saab make a sportscar in the early to mid seventies that
sported a V-4. Or maybe it was an Opel. That's the only one I know of. Walt
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 14:40:00 -0500
From: David Anderson
Subject: Engine Noise
I am trying to track down the source of an under the hood noise. The
truck is a '90 F150 XLT with an I6 and an automatic. The noise sounds
to me just like a banging heat riser valve. Vehicles I've had in the
past with a heat riser (the type with a counterweight and thermal
spring) would, under certain warm-up conditions, rattle or bang around
until the engine warmed up. I have looked and don't think this truck
has a heat riser. The sound starts to happen at 1500 RPM, peaks at 1600
and is about gone at 1700. It happens in all gears as I accelerate.
It's not load or throttle dependent, just RPM dependent. It does not
happen by revving to 1600 RPM in neutral. It seemed to be worse last
fall, almost go away during the cold of winter and is coming back this
spring. Here's what I've done so far: removed the serpentine belt for
a short drive to eliminate all the accessories; had a friend ride under
the hood (at low speeds) listening and putting a hand on everything like
the EGR and air bypass valve - couldn't hear of feel it from under the
hood. I've been told that idle air bypass valves can make a noise and
I'm about to take a shot and replace it. Can anyone confirm that these
valves can make this noise? Should I look into anything else?
All, Thanks for your help in the past on grabby rear brakes and
replacing ignition switches. I haven't fixed the brakes yet but I did
replace a fire prone ignition switch. In the process I was able to
adjust it to get all positions including accessory to work.
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 15:28:30 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Auto Krafters
Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts:
We have a new advertiser on our web site. Our practice with
web site advertisers has been to make a brief announcement for
2 days (this is day 1 of 2). Please show your appreciation to
them for helping to support the web site and the lists by
checking out their site:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.auto krafters. com
Auto Krafters sells new parts for both new and old Ford/Mercury
trucks and cars. They carry parts for late model Explorers,
Expeditions, Rangers, and F-series. Additionally, they sell
parts to help restore 1953-1979 to original condition. They
carry 13 different catalogs of genuine and reproduction parts.
We would like to have them know that you heard about them via
the Ford Truck Enthusiasts group.
Now returning you to our regularly scheduled program...
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 12:45:41
From: Bob & Jay Hartman-Berrier
Subject: '89 E150 Heater Core
Hello. First, I am a new member and have not had time to go through the
archives, so forgive me if this question has been seen before.
I have a coolant leak in my 89 E-150 Club Wagon, 5.0 litre engine, with
A/C. The leak was coming from the entrance to the passenger's heater area,
in the engine compartment. I could not see if it was coming from the
connection or not (too many other hoses in the way).
After observing the leak over several days I resorted to the pepper trick
and there has been no leak since. But this is a "band-aid" approach, and I
would like to fix it permanently, as we use it for long trips, sometimes
far from dealers!
There is no fogging of the windshield.
I have talked with several local Ford dealers, and have picked up some
tips, but all (obviously) would want me to bring it in for them to look at.
I would like to take the heater core off, but am stymied by the plastic
housing over the heater/AC unit in the passenger's compartment. Are there
any tricks or "gotcha's" to taking it off? There is a metal box underneath
it about the size of a computer's internal CD-ROM drive - what is that, and
how/should I take it off? Are there any tricks to the quick-disconnect hoses?
I can get an after-market heater core for about $95.00; one dealer wants
$290.00 to replace the heater core, including 3 hrs labor. Which in the
long run would be a better deal?
My Chilton's is almost no help with this. Should I call Helm's and price
out manuals for this vehicle?
Thanks for your help,
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 16:26:26 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: List and web provider solution found.
We've found a new provider/host for the lists and web site. Since
we have a new advertiser and many list members have emailed me to
let me know they're getting a window sticker, the startup cost is
covered. This month is an expensive month for us, especially since
there will be a two week overlap for the web sites so I can set up
everything on the new service.
We did a ton of web searches and found a virtual server provider that
is reasonablity priced with many features. By switching over to a
"virtual server" (vs the "virtual host" we currently use) we gain the
1. We can add more lists and more list members without increasing our
2. Database support. This makes a full blown private party classified
page with adds, deletes and edits easy to support. People visiting
the page will be able to do intelligent ad searches. The Events page
will have the same features.
3. The ability to schedule jobs, such as a monthly email newsletter.
4. Growth. We can add extra web space at the rate of $1/meg/month.
5. Free web space for members will be supported. We have no reseller
or reuse restrictions.
6. Those using the free web space can purchase additional space at
the above $1/meg/month (we're simply going to pass-on our costs).
7. True FTP and telnet logins for web space users!
8. CGI script support for web space users! Add your own scripts such
as counters, guestbooks, etc.
9. Ford truck clubs will get additional free web space (size not yet
determined) over the current 300k.
No outage of list or web page service is anticipated and the transition
will be at the end of the month.
Ken and Peggy Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I have a 93 F-150 SC with a standard Ford AM/FM/Cass (When Mark III did
the conversion, I wish they would have put in something nicer)but it
sounds good for a factory system. The problem is, sometimes it loses
power for no apparent reason. Then after 15 minutes to 30 minutes it
comes back on but to AM and all the stations and the clock need to be
reset every time. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be? I
really don't want to replace it right now..... I just want it fixed!
> I have a 93 F-150 SC with a standard Ford AM/FM/Cass (When Mark III did
> the conversion, I wish they would have put in something nicer)but it
> sounds good for a factory system. The problem is, sometimes it loses
> power for no apparent reason. Then after 15 minutes to 30 minutes it
> comes back on but to AM and all the stations and the clock need to be
> reset every time. Any suggestions as to what the problem may be? I
> really don't want to replace it right now..... I just want it fixed!
> +--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
> Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 12:02:21 -0600
> From: Beau Bush
> Subject: 1985 6-300 engine running rich
> I have a 1985 F150 with a 6-300 engine that is running very rich. Another
> concern is that even though 90% of the tubing and vacuum tubes are in
> place, some, especially the ones coming from the manifold, are rusted out.
Beau, If these metal lines go to your choke then maybe the choke is
not opening fully and your choke plate is staying partially closed causing
your rough idle. Next time you drive the truck with the engine hot, take
the lid off the air cleaner and see if your choke is in the full
vertical(open) position. Walt
My '84 Bronco is having some electrical problems. It wouldn't start, so I
did the test outlined in the Haynes Manual. When I came to a ballast
resistor test, the Ohm meter didn't register within specs. Its supposed to
read within .8-1.6 Ohms and my wire read 26 Ohms. So I got a new one, and
its a piece of wire. That was it, a piece of wire. I tried to find where
this goes, and haven't been successful. My book says under the dash, but I
took apart my entire dash trying to find it, but tom no avail. The
repacement has some bullet connectors, nothing like that under the dash.
If anyone knows where this might go, I would really appreciate it.
I have an 89 full sized bronco with a totally stock 302 with 113,000 miles =
on it. I want to put in a different cam in it keeping the emission crap =
intact without touching the bottom end which is in good shape. I blew an =
intake gasket that needs to be replaced so while I have it tore apart that =
far I want to get a little more kick out the 302. I should've included =
this info in my prior message.....thanks
It definitely sounds like the heater core, a small leak has the same
symptoms. I went for almost 6 months like that, then it got worse and the
windshield caught the brundt of it. On my 86 Bronco, the trick was taking
out the glove box, I could reach all the screws then. The heater core comes
out through the inside....Hope this helps.
At 12:45 PM 4/10/98, you wrote:
>Hello. First, I am a new member and have not had time to go through the
>archives, so forgive me if this question has been seen before.
>I have a coolant leak in my 89 E-150 Club Wagon, 5.0 litre engine, with
>A/C. The leak was coming from the entrance to the passenger's heater area,
>in the engine compartment.
I would check the exhaust system - make sure a heat shield is not loose or a
hangar broken. Exhaust noises can travel an appear to come from the
85 F250 xcab.4x4, 6.9 banks
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Anderson
To: 'Ford Truck'
Date: Friday, April 10, 1998 12:45 PM
Subject: Engine Noise
>I am trying to track down the source of an under the hood noise. The
>truck is a '90 F150 XLT with an I6 and an automatic. The noise sounds
>to me just like a banging heat riser valve. Vehicles I've had in the
>past with a heat riser (the type with a counterweight and thermal
>spring) would, under certain warm-up conditions, rattle or bang around
>until the engine warmed up. I have looked and don't think this truck
>has a heat riser. The sound starts to happen at 1500 RPM, peaks at 1600
>and is about gone at 1700. It happens in all gears as I accelerate.
>It's not load or throttle dependent, just RPM dependent. It does not
>happen by revving to 1600 RPM in neutral. It seemed to be worse last
>fall, almost go away during the cold of winter and is coming back this
>spring. Here's what I've done so far: removed the serpentine belt for
>a short drive to eliminate all the accessories; had a friend ride under
>the hood (at low speeds) listening and putting a hand on everything like
>the EGR and air bypass valve - couldn't hear of feel it from under the
>hood. I've been told that idle air bypass valves can make a noise and
>I'm about to take a shot and replace it. Can anyone confirm that these
>valves can make this noise? Should I look into anything else?
>All, Thanks for your help in the past on grabby rear brakes and
>replacing ignition switches. I haven't fixed the brakes yet but I did
>replace a fire prone ignition switch. In the process I was able to
>adjust it to get all positions including accessory to work.
>+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
Ok, I'm going to try to replace the radius arm bushings on my '85 F350
Crew Cab this weekend. Any tips to keep me from cussing any more than
normal?? The Chilton's manual I have says to loosen the bolt that
connects the I-beam to the radius arm (!) but it also says that you have
to re-torque that bolt to 300+ ft/lbs!!!! A mechanic I asked said to
remove the nut on the rear of the radius arm + use a cable "come-a-long"
to pull the I-beam + radius arm assy forward enough to replace the
bushings... Please help- I'm very mechanically inclined but I know there
must be a trick to this. Thanks.
Bret Luter, Raleigh, NC
'85 F350 Crew Cab (BMW hauler)
P.S. the tranny (4 speed manual)has been giving me some trouble (i.e.-
jumps out of 2nd gear, makes noise while idling with clutch pedal
released) I've got the Ford truck Owner's bible and it details the
complete rebuilding of the 4-speed tranny- doesn't look too bad- Any
suggestions or comments on this possible undertaking.?? Hey- J.C.
Whitney sells a "rebuild kit" for this thing that includes all new
bearings, synchros, seals, etc...
I have a the 5.8L W carbureated, reg cab 4x4 manual 4 sp, 3.54 rearend in my
F250.... I have put 2250 pounds (overloaded, no flames ok)of 3 inch wash
rock in the bed and it was able to pull it up Jefferson street fairly easy
which is a very steep hill here in K-town. There was no problem on low
inclined stuff to start up or stop. Since you will be pulling a trailer,
it won't be like puting 7000 lbs in the bed (that would be a site to see :),
and I don't think you would have a problem. I pull a 24 almar jetline once
in a while (dont know the pounds) and the only difference is that 1st gear
must be used every time you start, and MPG really sucks, but no big deal.
Other people on this list probably have a better idea than I do though..
first time post. I am working on a 302 engine for a ford truck, that in
one day lost oil pressure or very low. I have replaced oil pump, put
pressure test gauge on it to verify low pressure, checked screen in the
pan, changed filter and oil.
I am looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem. the
engine has 120k miles, but again the pressure went low in one day.
YA, GRIND THE RIVETS OFF OF THE BUSHING BRACKET AND REPLACE THEM W/
BOLTS...,MUCH QUICKER AND EASIER
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 00:17:03 -0700
Subject: Re: New to Group
Welcome to the list. If you still have the original tie rod ends on
that truck w/113k miles, congratulations. While others may have gone
that far, mine where WAY gone by 80k. Replaced them and it made a
HUGE difference in the steering and especially front-end shimmy under
moderate to heavy braking. The cam would depend on the type of
driving you intend to do. i.e. best gas mileage vs. high hp and....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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