fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, March 31 1998 Volume 02 : Number 116
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
F150 Rotors ["Leo O'Neill" ]
SPAM: F150 Rotors [sburn smbtech.com]
A/C retrofit 87 F250 302 ["Doug Berry" ]
Re: A/C retrofit 87 F250 302 [JDavis1277 ]
RE: R12 > R134 Conversion ["Posluszny, Walt (posl)" ]
A/C Question ["Harold Day" ]
Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors, info ["Dave Resch" ]
RE: New to List (Reposted) ["Kerr, Brian (R)" ]
Re: New to List (Reposted) [ACMERCG ]
RE: light switch ["Musolino, John" ]
R12>R134 Conversion [John Cassis ]
F-150 Brakes [ACMERCG ]
Ken Payne/Truck pics [ACMERCG ]
question [thumper loon.norlink.net]
V-8 Ranger Swap? [PhatStang ]
Re: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors, info [Run351 ]
Re: F-150 Brakes [Ken Payne ]
Re: Ken Payne/Truck pics [Ken Payne ]
Re: F-150 Brakes [Vance ]
R12>R134 Conversion [Hawk sktc.net]
RE: R12 > R134 Conversion [Hawk sktc.net]
Re: R12>R134 Conversion [JSCF250 ]
Re: F-150 Brakes [JSCF250 ]
Re: F-150 Brakes [R2G ]
Re: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors, info [Randy ]
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From: "Leo O'Neill"
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 07:13:14 -0500
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Subject: F150 Rotors
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Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: Steve Burnett
I've got a 1994 F-150 and the rotors are giving me a very bad
vibration. I check them and there's minimal wear so I'd like to have
What is the minimum thickness of F-150 rotors? I'd like to know
before I remove them, just in case the thickness is marginal and I
have to buy new rotors. Thanks.
+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| List removal instructions on the website. |
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
I've never replaced a complete system but I have used the R-12 to R-134a
retro kits. There are basicaly two types.
One is about $20 and all that it does is to change the type of high and
low pressure valves in your current system. With this kit all you need to
do is to go down to your local A/C shop and have them to evacuate your
system completely ($20-30 bucks). Then you can go home and recharge the
system with R-134a. (cheesy kit but it does work and its cheap).
The second type of kit contains them same valve to change over too but
also includes new O-rings connectors and a few various parts depending on
the type of compressor that is in your truck. I've seen this kit cost
anywhere from $20-$200, it just depends on the type of compressor. Still
with this kit you need to go to your local A/C shop and have them to evac
You can pick these kits up at most any auto parts store. Ive bought
them at Advance Auto Parts, but have seen them at AutoZone, Western Auto,
Twin Bee and NAPA.
If you have your own vaccuume pump then you can save on the evacuation
and do it yourself, but do not skip this step. Your system needs to be
completely empty, and by going to a A/C shop they can capture all of the
R-12 that may be in your system with out it getting into the atmosphere.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 09:26:08 EST
Subject: Re: A/C retrofit 87 F250 302
Sounds like a major undertaking if you want the full up system. Probably much
cheaper to just trade in for a similar truck with A/C. If you are not too
particular about all the bells and whistles you should be able to get a system
from a wrecked truck. Do you have the necessary tools like a bar gauge
manifold and vacuum pump? Pretty expensive to buy but you may be able to rent
them. Man, I wish you luck with this but I wouldn't want to try it. Butch
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:05:04 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Subject: RE: R12 > R134 Conversion
Buck, I checked, and believe it or not, my local Ford Dealer said that
they know of no conversion kit for this truck. 85, F-150 4x4 , 351, 4-spd.
I guess they only made a few million of these and someone didn't think
anyone would convert to R134; OR, they didn't think any were still around
and would need to be converted 13 plus years later. Who knows. Walt
> Date: 27 Mar 1998 20:48:32 EDT
> From: Hawk sktc.net
> Subject: Re: A/C Repair Question
> Walt wrote:
> FO>>Then of course I know I need to take it in to have it vacuumed out and
> FO>>put back in.
> FO>>Thanks Walt
> You probably ought to consider converting to R134A.
All this talk about A/C got me to thinking. In my part of Texas, we can
start using it real soon, so I checked mine out.... Nope!
It's not working...
I had the clutch on the compressor last year and it cooled, but not very
cold... but nothing now... I'm real ignorant on what to look at, or for? Any
suggestions where to start?
I've got an 84 F150 Extended Cab, with a 351.
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:40:50 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors, info
>Subject: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors, info
> I am looking for a late model 351W or 5.8 HO electronic fuel injection
>motor for a swap and really do not know much them.
>Is there a HO version? In what vehicles would I be likely to find one?
As far as I know, the 351W HO (actually 5.8 HO) was a 4V carbureted engine
Ford put in FS Broncos and F trucks from 1984 to 1987. Broncos and F150s
went to EFI in 1986, and F250 HD/F350s went to EFI in 1988.
I don't know that the HO designation was used w/ an EFI 351/5.8 engine.
It's fairly easy to look at FS Broncos and F trucks from the years
mentioned in junk yards to find these engines.
>How do I tell? What years are best? Which ones have roller cams?
>What books would give me this info? Any ideas?
The 351W/5.8 engine was never equipped w/ roller cams. Roller cams were
used only in 5.0 Mustang engines, starting in 1985. The 5.0 block had to
be redesigned to accommodate the connectors on the lifters that are
required w/ roller tappets. The 5.8 Windsor block was never retrofitted
for a roller cam.
As for books, there is a book titled "How to Rebuild Ford Small Block V8s"
by Tom Monroe, published by HP Books. It gives a pretty thorough rundown
of all the small block variants, but I don't know if it's current enough to
cover much of the EFI engines.
Dave R. (M-block devotee)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 05:42:19 -0500
From: "Kerr, Brian (R)"
Subject: RE: New to List (Reposted)
I posted this a week ago, but I did not see it appear in the digest, but I
did get one partial reply as a welcome message and the offer of an engine.
Any one else got any ideas on my plans for a motor swap?
From: Kerr, Brian (R)
To: 'Ford List'
Subject: New to List
Date: Monday, March 23, 1998 2:34PM
I have an 83 F 150 4X4 I-6 auto. The odometer read 81,600 Km (51K
miles) at purchase. It now is about 87,00 Km. It was purchased from a widow
in November. Her retired farmer husband lost his license about 4 years ago
due to declining health and vision, and it sat for 4 years before she sold
it to the guy I bought it from. Initially it seemed to run OK, but with a
bit of valve noise. So I spent evenings and weekends in January prepping the
body for paint. I welded in 2 new wheel openings in the box, new metal on
the rockers behind the wheels, etc, and covered up the "farm truck s**t
brown) with a 2 tone metallic blue paint job with fully stoneguarded rocker
panels and a pair of tricolor blue pinstripes to split the two colors, one
along the contour line between the door handle and lock, and the other
following the lower body contour above the rocker panel. (the second vehicle
I have ever painted) I wish it ran as good as it looks. I seem to be running
a very fast idle even when hot, but it will usually drop if I kick the
accelerator. While driving on the highway at a steady 60 mph I get about 13
miles per US gallon. Short trips around town etc. it drops by 20%. I don't
think it has the pulling power that it should have, but that part seems to
be improving! I am now slowly getting more milky oily condensation in the
dipstick tube, PCV hose and return line to the air breather. The dipstick is
always popped out an inch or so when I open the hood after it has been
running. The PCV valve is clear, I can easily blow through the PVC valve to
the intake, and the hose to the airbreather from the rocker cover vent/oil
fill hole is also clear. I also have an increasingly pronounced valve noise.
I am hoping that when I adjust the valves and clean the hoses etc. that I
will fix the problem, but I am not counting on it. I changed the plugs, and
they looked OK. There doesn't seem to be any contamination in the coolant. I
have not done a compression test yet. What kind of readings should I expect
when I do a compression test?
Any body got any ideas?
In the event that this motor is toast, is a 302 or a 351an easy bolt up,
and what needs to be changed, i.e. motor mounts, etc. What should I get from
the donor vehicle, and what, if any thing can I use from the I-6? I am in
South Central Ontario, would anyone have an engine for sale close by?
1983 F 150 4X4
69 Cutlass Conv (under restoration)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 15:54:00 EST
Subject: Re: New to List (Reposted)
In a message dated 98-03-30 15:47:31 EST, you write:
dipstick tube, PCV hose and return line to the air breather >>
Hmmm, sounds like a head gasket...
1. Run the motor up to operating temprature with the radiator cap off. look
for bubbles in the rad.
2. Do a compression test. Look for two adjacent cylinders with similar
What do your plugs look like? Are you losing coolant? Is your oil level
>Also, right in the middle of the dash, just above the floor, there is a
>connector on a pretty hefty bracket that nothing is plugged in to. Does
>anyone know what that is for. I'm just curious. Thanks in advance for
Its probably the Data Port connector
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 15:13:03 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: R12>R134 Conversion
Just my 2 cents worth, but I would not convert unless you have to. Those =
R134 systems just dont cool as well as R12. I had to replace everything =
(compressor, clutch, codensor,ect.) in my 93' Ranger about a year and a =
half ago and I had a choice of converting or staying with the R12. I =
went with the R12 system.If you dont have to convert dont do it. The R12 =
is better. Anyway dont flame me here just my 2 cents worth.
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 16:29:53 EST
Subject: F-150 Brakes
Can anyone give me a reasonable reason on why I'm going out to put brakes
on my truck again today? I put front pads on my 92 about every 3-4 months.
The longest I had pads last was 6 months and thats probally because I wasn't
driving it. I don't do a lot of towing, it is a daily driver and the 65K is
mostly highway miles. The truck is also mechanically stock.
SOMEBODY HELP ME!!!!!!!!
1992 F-150 4X4 XLT NITE
87 JX Softop
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 16:34:02 EST
Subject: Ken Payne/Truck pics
Where could I find my truck on the website and where can I find the info
on the stickers? Sorry I have to contact you like this but my AOL crashed and
I lost all of my addresses....
I have a 1993 F150 that won't start when it is damp or raining out. I'm new
to this list and am hoping someone may have some advice. Anyone else have
this problem? Is there a problem with a part that needs to be replaced or
is it just a Ford thing? Appreciate any advice.
93 F150 manual transmission, full matching green topper.
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 20:49:13 EST
Subject: V-8 Ranger Swap?
Hi there new to this list, so i will make it a first quick question. I
was wondering first of all how many people have seen those V-8 5.0 EFI engine
swaps they do to give those rangers some kick $$ power and speed. I was
wonder if anyone know or thinks, or what ever, if it is possible to to a swwap
like that but put it into a lowered 4 wheel drive model. That way you can
have the handling of a high priced sports car, and the power for a 5.0 stang.
If anyone know any info about this subject please get back with me. Also, if
you know of a web site that deals with this let m know.
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 20:58:33 EST
Subject: Re: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors, info
Ford did produce a 5.8L HO motor in the 93-95' Lightning pick
up..this is a 240HP motor which features GT40 components..(Heads, Upper/Lower
intake) I have only heard of one other swap performed w/this engine..It was
installed in a X-cab Ranger.
One obstical is the Computer controlled trans(E40D) they used a C6 and had
problems..This would probably be a very expensive swap..I have seen the
complete motor for as much as $2200 w/electronics from salvage yard..and good
luck locating one..Hope that helped your search...
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 21:48:37 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: F-150 Brakes
At 04:29 PM 3/30/98 EST, you wrote:
> Can anyone give me a reasonable reason on why I'm going out to put brakes
>on my truck again today? I put front pads on my 92 about every 3-4 months.
>The longest I had pads last was 6 months and thats probally because I wasn't
>driving it. I don't do a lot of towing, it is a daily driver and the 65K is
>mostly highway miles. The truck is also mechanically stock.
>SOMEBODY HELP ME!!!!!!!!
>1992 F-150 4X4 XLT NITE
>87 JX Softop
Check for a faulty master cylinder. Your brakes could be
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 22:03:46 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Ken Payne/Truck pics
At 04:34 PM 3/30/98 EST, you wrote:
> Where could I find my truck on the website and where can I find the info
>on the stickers? Sorry I have to contact you like this but my AOL crashed and
>I lost all of my addresses....
>1992 F-150 4X4 XLT NITE
>87 JX Softop
Web site did not get updated this weekend. I had to bring
a bunch of work home and was very busy. What little time
I had was spent with the wife (anniversary). I'm going to
try to get to it this weekend. For sticker info, click
"Products" on the main page.
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
> Can anyone give me a reasonable reason on why I'm going out to put brakes
> on my truck again today? I put front pads on my 92 about every 3-4 months.
> The longest I had pads last was 6 months and thats probally because I wasn't
> driving it. I don't do a lot of towing, it is a daily driver and the 65K is
> mostly highway miles. The truck is also mechanically stock.
> SOMEBODY HELP ME!!!!!!!!
> 1992 F-150 4X4 XLT NITE
> 87 JX Softop
I used to have the same questions....But I decided to quit buying
"Lifetime Guarantee" brakes from Autozone (or elsewhere) and buy Bendix
brake pads like originally came on the truck. By putting quality pads on
the front (always turning the rotors even if the "looked" ok) and
replacing and/or adjusting the back brakes I get 50,000 miles easy. Most
of my mileage is on hard surface but the 5% that is on dirt is HARD
"lifetime" warranty at chain stores means that as long as you are
willing to change out parts, they will give you a new one. They count on
you trading the vehicle before you need a new part. I have opted to
spending a tad more to get a little better quality part form the "local"
home owned dealer. If its a bum part, he stands by it, but funny he
seldom has to. For what its worth...
FO>Just my 2 cents worth, but I would not convert unless you have to. Those R13
John, I don't want to start a war, but I just think that it is alot more
cost effective to go with R134A at this time. R134A seems to be
plentiful, realitively cheap, and available in the forseeable future. I
don't think the same can be said about R12, unless you are sitting on a
stash or know someone in the black market.
The R134A systems in my 94 Ranger and my 95 F150 work as well or better
than any a/c's that I have ever owned. Why do you think that they don't
work as well? Not flaming, just asking.
FO>Buck, I checked, and believe it or not, my local Ford Dealer said that
FO>they know of no conversion kit for this truck. 85, F-150 4x4 , 351, 4-spd.
FO>I guess they only made a few million of these and someone didn't think
FO>anyone would convert to R134; OR, they didn't think any were still around
FO>and would need to be converted 13 plus years later. Who knows. Walt
Walt, I didn't think that you needed a kit. I think most of the
conversions go something like this: install a new/rebuilt compressor,
new drier, new expansion valve (I think they call it a dip tube now),
and new service valves. Some people spring for a new condenser, which
may not be a bad idea. Repair all leaks. Vacuum the heck out of it and
drop in the new fluid. Oh yeah, I think the compressor oil is specific
to the type freon that is used. DO NOT USE OZ12 OR OTHER HIGHLY
FLAMABLE REFRIDGERANTS SUCH AS PROPANE. Intimidated yet? Probably not
something that you would want to attempt at home. These conversions are
becoming more common as the price of R12 gets more and more ridiculous.
I just brought it up because in some parts of the country it is not much
more expensive to do the complete conversion than it is to do a repair
and buy the R12. Whatever way you go, summer's a comin', so stay cool!
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 23:13:15 EST
Subject: Re: R12>R134 Conversion
hey, not true about the r-134. i live in florida and boy its get real crispy
down here in the summer. my 89 f-250 was converted , and it gets so cold in
that cab i have to turn it down. even when its 92 degrees out.so dont beleive
the hype. its cold and alot cheaper than r-12. good luck,
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 23:18:25 EST
Subject: Re: F-150 Brakes
try using semi metallic brakes, they also make a brake pad for vehicles that
do heavy duty service. check with your parts store.
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 00:03:23 EST
Subject: Re: F-150 Brakes
Joe, I feel your pain about the brake pads. I don't understand why this
problems occurs but be assured that you are not the only one with it. I have a
95 F-150 with 39,000 on it. I took it in to Ford service today because they
started make a grinding sound. They told me that the front rotors, pads, and
inner and outer bearings need replacing and the rear shoes need to be de-
glazed. They are charging $75.00 for this, which is not bad, because the truck
out of warranty. I also have a friend who has a 87 F-150 and he puts on new
pads and a new right front rotor about every 6 months and nobody can tell him....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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