fordtrucks80up-digest Saturday, March 28 1998 Volume 02 : Number 113
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Re: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors ["Arnold Gladwell"
rebuild 83 F150 302 HELP! [nuke ]
Re: rebuild 83 F150 302 HELP! [Chris Hedemark ]
Re: rebuild 83 F150 302 HELP! [Run351 ]
Carbureator Icing Revisited ["Beaman, James" ]
83 F150 - 350 [Timothy P Fagrey ]
BW: blues ["Casey Vandor" ]
Re: BW: blues [David McDonald ]
Speedo Gear ["Casey Vandor" ]
Re: A/C Repair Question [Hawk sktc.net]
RE: F150 Speedometer Recalibration ["Stephen M. Brown"
5-Speed Gear Ratios for HD Fords [Sheldon Belinkoff
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 08:11:11 -0600
From: "Arnold Gladwell"
Subject: Re: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors
I seen a version of what you are asking for on the TV show "Shadetree
Mechanic." They used two pumps, but I don't remember what brand of pump
they used. One was close to the fuel cell and the other was near the
engine. I remember that it was a pure after market brand (not a ford).
79, 4x2, CC, 400, 4spd
- -----Original Message-----
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Friday, March 27, 1998 12:43 AM
Subject: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors
> I am looking for a late model 351W or 5.8 HO electronic fuel injection
>motor for a swap and really do not know much them.
>Is there a HO version? In what vehicles would I be likely to find one?
>How do I tell? What years are best? Which ones have roller cams?
>What books would give me this info? Any ideas?
>Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
>6.9 litre diesel Ford van, full-time 4 wheel drive
>"Hang on kids, we're going through..."
>4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
>Tire chains, camping gear, tools and first aid stuff too...
>+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
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I just bought an 83 Ford F150 kingcab longbed 4X4
302 engine w/ Holley 600 w vacuum secondaries, Edelbrock 289 Performer
Manifold, headers, dual super turbo mufflers and catalytic converters
exiting out the side just past the cab, I Plan on putting in an "H" pipe
Engine had all pollution devices removed only a pcv valve remains
Clark 4 spd over drive, 208 transfer case, 3.55 gears
I am doing an engine overhaul, maybe high volume oil pump, planning on
alloy water pump, engine oil cooler, and flex fan. I think I am looking for
a cam & lifters, do I need springs if the ones I have are okay?
#1 I LIVE IN FLORIDA NOT California, the only hills we have are
overpasses, and boat ramps, we drive 65 - 75 MPH on the highway.
I will be using this truck mostly on the road, lots of highway use, when I
go off road it will be hauling hunting dog retriever training equipment,
usually on well used sand trails/roads, some water, and pull offs to drop
equipment at remote sites, nothing hard corps here. I will also be pulling
a 25 foot boat w/ flybridge on a double axle galvanized trailer to a boat
ramp 3 miles from my house, maybe once or twice a 100 mile run to the
I am looking mostly for economy, good highway speed with some pulling
power, without going broke.
A tire size recommendation that will have decent sand and towing
characteristics would be appreciated, the truck now has 33 x 12.5 on the
back and 31 x 11.5 on the front, go figure, I won't drive it that way, on
15 x 9.5 rims. I got it with a busted head bolt for $800.
I just found out it needs to be bored out, my machinist says Ford spent $$$
on this engine and if they thought a street engine needed a better cam and
High volume oil pump and roller chain, they would have done it themselves,
he says stay stock, but I don't know. I talked to Comp Cams and they
pointed me in the direction of their Xtreme Energy 4x4 #254. I read Crane
makes good 302 cams also or how about this Edelbrock Performer to go with
the intake manifold. I am also considering a Centerforce Clutch, don't
know why, the ad sounds good I guess, do I need the duel force one?
I am considering getting everything from Performance Automotive Warehouse,
any opinion there?
Also looks like it's been in a front end accident, new hood and fenders,
welding on the frame on the right side in front of the axle, and on the
axle on the left side. The steering mount is cracked. I am taking it to a
welder to fix up and beef up where necessary any suggestions where I can
find info and where to beef it up?
I've been out of racing a 65 Mustang for about 30 years and 4x4's about 20
Thank You Wade A. Nuquist nuke mci2000.com
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 14:04:00 -0500
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: rebuild 83 F150 302 HELP!
> I am doing an engine overhaul, maybe high volume oil pump, planning on
> alloy water pump, engine oil cooler, and flex fan. I think I am looking for
> a cam & lifters, do I need springs if the ones I have are okay?
You have to ask the cam manufacturer. Milder cams can often use stock
valve springs but for the more aggressive cams you may need to replace
> A tire size recommendation that will have decent sand and towing
> characteristics would be appreciated, the truck now has 33 x 12.5 on the
> back and 31 x 11.5 on the front, go figure, I won't drive it that way, on
> 15 x 9.5 rims. I got it with a busted head bolt for $800.
Don't put it into 4 wheel drive until the tire sizes match up!!!!!!!
A 33x12x50 is wide enough for some light sand use and primarily highway
driving. Some manufacturers have a 33x14.50 (check out the Cepeck's)
but I wouldn't suggest this unless you will be doing primarily sand
Best thing to do is get 33x12.50's on all four corners, and air those
suckers down when you get to the sand. This is one more good argument
for having a permanantly mounted air compressor hidden, perhaps under
Chris Hedemark - chris yonderway.com - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
"From the fury of the Norsemen, oh Lord, deliver us!"
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 14:24:57 EST
Subject: Re: rebuild 83 F150 302 HELP!
it sounds as though your truck is already pretty well
built..Some easy power building (street legal) modifications would be
underdrive pulleys(march) and
a K&N filter..with that it sounds as thoughthe rest of your $$$ will be well
spend on some maintaince..Here is a website that my give you some ideas..
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.truckworld.com/ good luck RUN351
I finally took the time to sit down and read the Gasoline FAQ at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.landfield.com/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq, a very interesting piece
and one I will have to read over to glean all the information it contains.
Since there was some discussion on carbureator icing a few weeks ago, I
thought I would post the relevant section. In other sections, it said that
additives vary between brands of fuel so changing brands may help icing
8.3 Can I prevent carburetter icing?
Yes, carburettor icing is caused by the combination of highly volatile fuel,
high humidity and low ambient temperature. The extent of cooling, caused by
the latent heat of the vaporised gasoline in the carburettor, can be as much
as 20C, perhaps dropping below the dew point of the charge. If this happens,
water will condense on the cooler carburettor surfaces, and will freeze if
the temperature is low enough. The fuel volatility can not always be reduced
to eliminate icing, so anti-icing additives are used. In the US, anti-icing
additives are seldom required because of the widespread use heated intake
air and fuel injection .
Two types of additive are added to gasoline to inhibit icing:-
- - surfactants that form a monomolecular layer over the metal parts that
inhibits ice crystal formation. These are usually added at concentrations
of 30-150 ppm.
- - cryoscopic additives that depress the freezing point of the condensed
so that it does not turn to ice. Alcohols ( methanol, iso-propyl alcohol,
etc. ) and glycols ( hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol ) are used at
concentrations of 0.03% - 1%.
If you have icing problems, the addition of 100-200mls of alcohol to a full
tank of dry gasoline will prevent icing under moderately-cold conditions.
If you believe there is a small amount of water in the fuel tank, add 500mls
of anhydrous isopropyl alcohol as the first treatment, and isopropyl
alcohol is also preferred for more severe conditions. Oxygenated gasolines
using alcohols can also be used. It's important to ensure the alcohol is
anhydrous, as some grades contain up to 30% water.
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 14:57:01 -0800
From: Timothy P Fagrey
Subject: 83 F150 - 350
I am having a problem with my truck stalling at stop signs and/or low speed(10mph). It has a new engine, a completely
rebuild carb, new EGR, and a new fuel filter. When it stalls it seems like the ignition just got turned off. Any ideas? Do
you think it may be pollution control related?
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 14:58:35 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: BW: blues
My dad and I have a 90? (I think) F-250 4x4 we use for ploughing. We beat
the piss out the truck and the only problem so far is the C-6 is slipping a
bit. I will write him tonight and see what model year and type of t-case it
has. We use four high and gas to the floor.... drive reverse drive
reverse drive... Never had any probelms with the t-case, we also have a
large full bed size sander in the back, so a lot of weight is stopped
all winter long. But this year sucked, so I'll blame it on El nino ;-)
I've got a '90 F250HD 351 5spd that I use to snowplow my 1/4 mile
driveway in Colorado. I blew out the xfer case right after I got the plow
this year, and figured that it had been leaking for about two years, so I
wasn't surprised (it had about 75K miles on it).
So, I bought a rebuilt BW 1356 for $600, which I thought was a good
price... until it blew out too, after two snowstorms... total miles on the
rebuilt case: 4. Yep, I typed that right.... 4 miles. It's in for
work, if the guys decide to stand behind a transfer case mounted on a
'modified' vehicle (refering to my western snowplow).
My question is this - Did '90 F250HDs come with any other xfer
I've heard that possibly some came equipped with New Process cases. Are
any beefier than the Borg Warners? I either need to get something with a
little more metal in it, or change my plowing style (4lo, slow speeds, long
steady pushes until that BUMP at the ice stack at the end o the road).
I'll let those of you in the Denver area know who rebuilt the xfer
case and how they stand behind it next week after they've taken a look at
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 17:50:17 -0800
From: David McDonald
Subject: Re: BW: blues
Casey Vandor wrote:
> My dad and I have a 90? (I think) F-250 4x4 we use for ploughing. We beat
> the piss out the truck and the only problem so far is the C-6 is slipping a
> bit. I will write him tonight and see what model year and type of t-case it
> has. We use four high and gas to the floor.... drive reverse drive
> reverse drive... Never had any probelms with the t-case, we also have a
> large full bed size sander in the back, so a lot of weight is stopped
> started alot
> all winter long. But this year sucked, so I'll blame it on El nino ;-)
Do any of ya think it could be my clutch foot causing the probs with the
transfer case? I've thought about the auto vs standard for plowing... Don't
autos slip just a little so that gettin started (or stopped hard) doesn't
have quite the same BANG on the transfer case? Mebbe if I got the clutch a
little hotter I'd save some other repairs elsewhere?
'90 F250 4x4 351 5spd with a big ugly plow...
here is something I ran across on speedo calibration
Maybe it will be helpful to some of you guys.
Drive 10 miles, write down the actual miles & tenths that you went in the
10 miles. Remove the driven gear from the transmission and count the number
of the on the gear. For example, you drove 9.5 miles and the driven gear
has 20 teeth. Multiply the number of teeth by 10 (the correct reading in
miles that result is 200. Divide the 200 by 9.7 (the actual miles and
tenths) and we get 20.6 which is the correct number of teeth for the drive
gear. In this case you would change to a 21 tooth gear to correct the
10 X 20 = 200 200 divided by 9.5 is 21.05 teeth
FO>>Then of course I know I need to take it in to have it vacuumed out and R12
FO>>put back in.
You probably ought to consider converting to R134A.
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 22:29:02 -0600
From: "Stephen M. Brown"
Subject: RE: F150 Speedometer Recalibration
>From: "Norman Maranda"
>Subject: F150 Speedometer Recalibration
>I was talking to my dealer agian yesterday and he said that if you put
>tires on the truck you have to change a gear on the speed sensor. He said
>it was about 1/2 hour of labor and 10 bucks for the gear for a grand total
>40 bucks!!! I think this is the only way to recalibrate the speedometer.
>any body do this???? How involved is it??? Thanks
>NAME: Norman J. Maranda Jr.
A guy on the Bronco mailing list sent me this:
First, get the tire revolution per mile. Then multiply that by 108 and
divide by 8000. This end figure is your CONVERSION CONSTANT.
RESET CONVERSION CONSTANT
Note: The module can only be reprogrammed six times.
Here is the actual procedure:
Locate the dealer mode programming enable single-terminal connector. The
connector is located at the bottom of the instrument panel below the center
of the glove box. On all vehicles, the dealer mode enable wire is Circuit
Insert a jumper wire or alligator clip in service wire and clip other end
to vehicle ground with the key in the OFF postition.
Turn key to RUN while holding down the trip odometer RESET button on the
speedometer. Release RESET button.
The Speedometer will prove out(sweep across dial and back). The
English/Metric and revision levels will be displayed. The last number of
the display id the dealer mode lockout count. This count shows the number
of allowable conversion constant changes remaining. When the count is zero
(0), no aadditional changes can be made to this instrument cluster. If a
revision is required a service instrument cluster must be ordered.
Press and release RESET button again and PSOM conversion constant without
the decimal point will be displayed followed by the word CAL.
Press and release the odometer SELECT button as many times as necessary to
change the conversion constant to the correct value.
Note: Pressing and releasing the RESET button to lock in the new
conversion constant reduces the number of times the PSOM can be
reprogrammed by one count. If you change your mind and want to go back to
the old conversion constant, turn the key OFF BEFORE you lock in the new
When the new correct value is displayed in teh odometer window, press and
release the RESET button to lock in the new conversion constant.
Turn the key OFF and disconnect the ground wire and check to see that the
speedo works correctly. ....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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