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Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 03:50:24 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #91
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, March 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 091



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

New Shocks [John Cassis ]
Steering Stabalizer [John Cassis ]
Re: K&N Performance Kit [JSCF250 ]
Re: Transmission Question [rockinghorse webtv.net (Randall Goolsby)]
dont buy the Headman heat stove Kit [Mike Johnson ]
RE: Gas mileage on 95 F-150 [Mike Johnson ]
RE: Running rich/Rough idle ["Beaman, James" ]
RE: Gas mileage on 95 F-150 ["Golden, Scott A."
Re: rings breaking? ["Randy L. Hatcher" ]
RE: F250HD Front end alignment ["Beaman, James" ]
SOHC in RANGER for 99 [Chris Hunt ]
RE: 2WD Lockers ["Beaman, James" ]
Transmission Question [sbest ]
Re: 1993 SB F-150 4x4, washboard roads [sbest ]
cd changer location [Derek Whiteside ]
Aerostars [John Cassis ]
Re: K&N Performance Kit [David McDonald ]
Re: Towing capacities [Mark Ponsford ]
Re: 2wd Lockers [Joe Maleski ]
Re: 93 Ford F-150 4x4 [Joe Maleski ]
Axle Code 39? 92 F250 4x4 [CONWAY pjm.com]
Axle code 39 [John Cassis ]
RE: CD changers [bpulfrey boxtop.com]
Re: Axle Code 39? 92 F250 4x4 [Mark Ponsford ]
Re: Ford truck brake problem / + Starter Problem ["Mike Mueller"
Re: Running rich/Rough idle///diagnosis [JSCF250 ]
Re: Running rich/Rough idle///diagnosis [FSTFORDS ]
exhaust on 351 windsor ["Casey Vandor" ]
Re: exhaust on 351 windsor [Sheldon Belinkoff ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 06:06:16 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: New Shocks

Try KYB's great shocks for small trucks.

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 06:09:10 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: Steering Stabalizer

Eric,
I only got the single, I'm only running 31's so I figured the double was overkill for me.

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 08:19:24 EST
From: JSCF250
Subject: Re: K&N Performance Kit

hey tim why dont you just purchase the filter cartridge and leave the airbox
intact, then it will only cost you, 38 bucks. i replaced mine on my 89 f250
and i noticed a little diff not much, but as mike said you can hear the motor
breathe.

good luck,

joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 06:03:56 -0800
From: rockinghorse webtv.net (Randall Goolsby)
Subject: Re: Transmission Question

Peter,By all means do it your self.I,m going to do my E4OD as soon as
the weather gets a bit more tolerable.Yes, I'm told there is a drain
plug that can be accessed by removing the dust cover in the cover at
trans,but have yet to verify this myself.I have a factory installed
cooler also that will need to be blown out,as well as the lines and
radiator.The haynes said fluid capacity for E4OD w/cooler is 17.7qts.The
fluid I was thinking of using was castrol synthetic dextron III 4.99
qt.Add a filter kit and enough fluid to also do transfer case, and the
price will be around $120.00.Good luck.Question:why is it so damned hard
for Ford to install drain plugs on trans pans?The E4OD pan is huge and
holds like 5-6 qts of fluid.Last time I did this with petrol atf,the
first 4qts was on me.literally. Randy 94 Bronco EB 85 F250 4wd

















------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 09:33:12 -0500
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: dont buy the Headman heat stove Kit

don't buy the Headman heat stove Kit
Its a rip off for $27.
I could have made it myself for a few dollars.
All it is a 3" piece of exhaust pipe with a metal strap welded to it.
they supply you with a few hose clamps to attach it to one
of your header pipes and then the preheat hose that cost $3
at the parts store.
WHAT A RIP OFF!

mike
mikej granger-co.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 09:39:41 -0500
From: Mike Johnson
Subject: RE: Gas mileage on 95 F-150

17-19 mpg is pretty darn good i think.
I get 14-15 with my 86
My father gets 15-18 with his 92
both have the 4.9 in-line six.

mike
mikej granger-co.com

> Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:06:31 -0500
> From: "Golden, Scott A."
> Subject: Gas mileage on 95 F-150
>
> I'm only getting about 17-19 mpg on my 1995 F-150 with the 4.9 in-line
> six.
> Is this abnormally low? Mostly highway driving, truck has 41K miles on
> it.
> It just seems like it should get more than that. Anyone know if this
> is
> normal?
>
> - -Scott

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 08:52:55 -0600
From: "Beaman, James"
Subject: RE: Running rich/Rough idle

Joe wrote:

> that fuel pressure regulator thats mounted on the fuel injector rail?
> could
> that be the problem? i tried to take a fuel pressure reading today but
>
> it.another thing what about the tps switch, that adjusts air/fuel mixture
> also
> and engine speed which the engine sometimes surges. but only at idle. but
> it
> has great pick up and no flat spots when accelerating. thanks bud.
>
I agree with Joe on checking the fuel pressure regulator and the Throttle
Position Sensor (TPS). Apparently, both of these are higher failure rate
items.

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 10:19:45 -0500
From: "Golden, Scott A."
Subject: RE: Gas mileage on 95 F-150

Thanks for all the replies folks! Seems my mileage isn't as bad as I
thought. It just struck me as odd that some folks with the v-8s get around
the same or better mileage than me with only a 6. Thanks for the responses.

- -Scott

> ----------
> From: Mike Johnson[SMTP:MikeJ granger-co.com]
> Sent: Monday, March 09, 1998 9:39 AM
> To: 'fordtrucks80up ListService.net'
> Subject: RE: Gas mileage on 95 F-150
>
>
>
> 17-19 mpg is pretty darn good i think.
> I get 14-15 with my 86
> My father gets 15-18 with his 92
> both have the 4.9 in-line six.
>
> mike
> mikej granger-co.com
>
> > Date: Fri, 6 Mar 1998 14:06:31 -0500
> > From: "Golden, Scott A."
> > Subject: Gas mileage on 95 F-150
> >
> > I'm only getting about 17-19 mpg on my 1995 F-150 with the 4.9 in-line
> > six.
> > Is this abnormally low? Mostly highway driving, truck has 41K miles on
> > it.
> > It just seems like it should get more than that. Anyone know if this
> > is
> > normal?
> >
> > - -Scott
>
> +--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 10:40:21 -0500 (EST)
From: "Randy L. Hatcher"
Subject: Re: rings breaking?

right,maybe I'll get even better gas MILEAGE!!

On Sun, 8 Mar 1998
bgap RAPIDNET.COM wrote:

> Or you could run it without that piston. Just remove it. Ford puts too
> many pistons in their engines anyway. Think of the savings!!!
>
> Randy wrote:
> >
> > Randy,
> > Hmmmm, KEEPS breaking??!! How many times has this happened? If
> > the piston ring breaks that means the rod and piston have to come out
> > in order to fix it. This can be costly if you can't do it yourself,
> > just due to the labor alone. I'm guessing that's his reason for
> > selling the truck. How many miles are on it and which ring is
> > breaking? If it's the top compression ring, my guess would be there's
> > too much carbon build up at the top of the cylinder, but this is
> > unlikely if he had it fixed already, since the probably would have
> > used a ridge reamer on it, but who knows. Other than some type of
> > debris like part of a broken spark plug there's really nothing to
> > break a ring. If he bought oversized rings (.005-.010") maybe he
> > didn't have the cylinder honed properly and it could be out-of-round,
> > thereby causing stress on the rings which it isn't built for and yes
> > a few thousandths or a few hundredths of an inch can make a difference
> > depending on the tolerancing. My suggestion would be only buy the
> > truck if you can get it dirt cheap, cheap enough to have a qualified
> > shop with a good reputation fit the truck with new pistons all the way
> > around by machining the block to fit in them. Most reputable shops
> > will guarantee that type of work for a limited time, enough time that
> > you should be able to tell if it worked anyway. Again, if you are
> > capable of engine removal/installation you'll save a bunch of bucks
> > there, by just taking the engine to the shop. I wouldn't recommend
> > much teardown, pay them for it, if you're not qualified, it'll be
> > worth the extra bucks, especially if you get the owner to realize this
> > will cost you money to do it RIGHT. He may try to tell you 'yeah, but
> > it only cost me....' blahblahblah, yeah, don't think so, since it
> > obviously didn't work. Btw, I'm not telling you whether you should or
> > shouln't get the truck, just giving you some insight into what you may
> > be looking at for a fix. Let the group know the outcome, k?
> > Later,
> > Randy (sure are alot of us on here lately...)
> >
> > Randy L. Hatcher wrote:
> > >
> > > I am about to buy a Ford Ranger,that a person has,and he tells me for some
> > > reason the ring on piston # 3 keeps breaking,is there a
> > > fix for this?
> > > does the block need to be bored out?
> > > it's a 2.0L 5-speed manual,2WD SWB.
> > > thanks
> +--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

afn23242 afn.org
Randy Hatcher

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
those that have minds don't use them,those that do can't think straight.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 10:08:37 -0600
From: "Beaman, James"
Subject: RE: F250HD Front end alignment

Bret Shivers wrote:

> Has anyone had problems with the front-end alignment on F250HD trucks?
>
My '92 F250 needs frequent alignments. I took it to National Tire and
Battery (NTB) the first time and the frequency of realignment is such that I
have not paid for another one since. Going to NTB might also be less
hassle than taking it to a dealer. I think any alignment within 15,000
miles of the previous one is free. My truck, with my city driving, has no
problem meeting this criteria.

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 11:49:22 -0500
From: Chris Hunt
Subject: SOHC in RANGER for 99

According to this week's "AutoWeek" mag, Ford has announced that all 99 light
trucks except for the windstar will have the new-low emmisions. They claim
with OHC engines, they can manipulate emmisions better. The windstar will
still
have the push-rod engine. So if the windstar will be the only rig with the
OHV engine, I would think the Ranger would get the SOHC. Lets just hope.
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 10:46:48 -0600
From: "Beaman, James"
Subject: RE: 2WD Lockers

Andrew Vincitore wrote:

> It is a 2WD. I never wanted the added weight and complexity of 4WD. Even
> though I live in the North east, I find little justification for 4WD. Face
> it , most people never really use it. With the locker in my truck I am
> able
> to back up on lawns and difficult locations. (Snip)
>
I am interested in putting a locker on my 2WD '92 F250. I think this will
give me more traction than trucks with 4WD and two open differentials.
Questions I have: how does your truck behave when powering through turns on
pavement with your Powertrax locker? Do your hear the clunking of the
locker engaging at this and other times? I assume this is a true locker and
not limited slip. What do you get for your $300? Do you get new gears or
is it just the locking mechanism? I am planning on changing gear ratios and
wondered if I can just specify the new gear ratio when I order and get it
all for $300 or do I have to order the new gears separately? Thanks for the
advice.

James Beaman
james.beaman lmco.com
Houston, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Mar 1998 15:35:30 -0400
From: sbest
Subject: Transmission Question

>Date: Sun, 08 Mar 1998 23:36:04 GMT
>From: peter.arnold.01 snet.net (Peter T. Arnold)
>Subject: Transmission Question
>
>Re: '95 F-250 PowerStroke, Automatic,
>
>I would like to change the ATF and convert to synthetic fluid as I
>desire it's high temperatur abalities.
>
>Best Method? Possible to do at home?
>
>Drop pan, change filter replce fluid? Is there a drain plug in the
>converter?
>
>Take it to a dealer, have him change filter and power flush?
>
>Any thoughts out there ??
>
>Peter T. Arnold
>'95 F-250 PowerStroke
>'54 Metropolitan
*************************************************************
Peter,
This is easily a "do it yourself in the driveway" job, not much
harder than changing motor oil.

Drop pan, change filter, drain convertor, replace fluid pretty well
describes it. You will want a large catch pan, leave a couple bolts
loose on one corner of the transmission pan and loosen it off on the
opposite corner. The torque convertor drain plug is on its front face
and is is accessed through a hole in the flywheel (under the little
bellhousing bottom access cover).

The two fluids are compatable and if you run the motor for a few
minutes to circulate and warm (not too hot!) the fluid beforehand
you will flush any contaminates out with the drain. Some pans have
a magnet in them that may need to be cleaned.


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
6.9 litre diesel Ford van, full-time 4 wheel drive
"Hang on kids, we're going through..."
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools and first aid stuff too...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Mar 1998 15:46:49 -0400
From: sbest
Subject: Re: 1993 SB F-150 4x4, washboard roads

> Seeking information and advice on suspension for subject truck. I live in
> gravel roads which become infested with "washboard" bumps. The stock
> suspension is beating me to death! I don't want to raise the truck, bu I
> would not be opposed to raising the front end enough to "level" the truck.
> Anyone have any advice or experience with taming the stock suspension on
> these trucks?
>
> Thanks in advance!!!!
>
> Eric Johnson
> 1993 SB F-150 4x4

Lowering the tire pressures 5 lbs is a quick and easy trick to survive
the washboards until they grade them.


Steve Best, Nova Scotia, sbest glinx.com
6.9 litre diesel Ford van, full-time 4 wheel drive
"Hang on kids, we're going through..."
4 wheel drive van page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.glinx.com/users/sbest
Tire chains, camping gear, tools and first aid stuff too...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 11:10:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Derek Whiteside
Subject: cd changer location

I have a 92 f150 XLT 4x2 supercab, manual tranny. 50/50 seats.

I just recently installed a new stereo in the truck, including 10 disc
changer and 4x100 watt amp.

So, the CD changer is under the driver's 1/2 of the seat, and the amp
is under the passenger's 1/2. Fit fine in my truck, although the seat
had to come out for installation, and the seat adjustment cable rubs
on top of the amp.

Other places to consider: under the dash on the center hump (if auto
tranny). This is a good spot, but suffers in that the changer will be
somewhat visible. Depends on how much theft prevention you want.

Glove box would definitely require some cutting. I looked into this.

Hope this helps,

Derek Whiteside


ps: the back seat was out for me, as I have the supercab folding bench
seat, and I regularly use both configurations.





_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:34:25 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: Aerostars

Ken,

If they are almost the same as the Rangers, let them on. They could offer some good info.

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 1998 14:16:30 -0800
From: David McDonald
Subject: Re: K&N Performance Kit

Croth2 wrote:
>
> I am contemplating purchasing a K&N Performance kit fro my 89 F-150 5.0. IT
> replaces the airbox, and its an open filter. It is supposed to increase
> horsepower, and gas mileage. Has anybody had any experience with this? Is it
> worth 132$?---->Tim

Tim,

I got one... put it on in addition to an MSD and a cat back system,
so I can't say what the K&N did on it's own, but I'd have to vote NO on 'is
it worth $132?'. If that's the only mod yer gonna make, go with the K&N drop
in filter, and cut out any butterflys or baffles in the stock air passages.
You might also consider putting on the airbox from a larger engine.

I can see the cone type K&N being really good for high volume
applications, really hot engines and the like, but not really for a stock
motor boost.

Dave McDonald
'90 F250HD 4x4 5spd.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:01:22 -0800
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: Towing capacities

>Hi,
>I own an 83 F100 SWB with a 300-6 and C4 transmission that I will be use
>occasionally for towing a two-horse trailer. I'm not sure of the trailer
>weight but the horses collectively weight approximately 2200 lbs. The trips
>I'm planning won't be more than a 150 mile radius from where I live. My
>question is has anyone had any experience with this or know where I can find
>the manufacturers recommended towing capacities. Thanks for yor help.
>
>Dmc

Try http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://uviclib.uvic.ca/staff/mponsford/92fseries/towregcab.html for
some ballpark figures.


- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Ponsford
Phone: (250) 721-7397 Email: mponsfor uvic.ca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 10:59:02 -0800
From: Joe Maleski
Subject: Re: 2wd Lockers

>2wd lockers sound like a great idea for increasing performance without
>having to deal with the hassle of a 4WD. Does anyone know where I can
>find more information about installing 2wd lockers on an '88 Ranger? And
>where I can buy the kit?

In my opinion, I wouldn't have a 2WD truck without lockers. Just about any
4WD shop (or mail-order catalog) can give you prices on a locking rear
differential. Many rear ends are the same whether the truck is a 4X4 or a
4X2, so the parts are the same. I'd highly recommend a Detroit Locker,
should be around 3 - 400 bucks installed, less if you do it yourself.

Joe

************************************
Joe Maleski
Santa Clara, CA
1994 F-250HD SuperCab 4X4, 460/5-spd

mailto:jmaleski auspex.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 10:53:00 -0800
From: Joe Maleski
Subject: Re: 93 Ford F-150 4x4

>Seeking information and advice on suspension for subject truck. I live in
>gravel roads which become infested with "washboard" bumps. The stock
>suspension is beating me to death! I don't want to raise the truck, bu I
>would not be opposed to raising the front end enough to "level" the truck.
>Anyone have any advice or experience with taming the stock suspension on
>these trucks?

Eric,

The best way to tame the ride on washboard surfaces is to adjust the air
pressure in your tires, I usually run a few pounds lower in the front than
the rear. Next up would be to move to an adjustable shock absorber, such
as a set o' Rancho RS9000's. Lifting the truck would stiffen the ride
somewhat, and will probably hurt you more on the washboard.

Love your guitar work! :)

Joe

************************************
Joe Maleski
Santa Clara, CA
1994 F-250HD SuperCab 4X4, 460/5-spd

mailto:jmaleski auspex.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 16:46:55 -0500
From: CONWAY pjm.com
Subject: Axle Code 39? 92 F250 4x4

I've got a 92 F250 4x4 and the sticker on the door pillar says the axle
code is "39". Can someone decode this for me?

Thanks,

Chuck Conway
conway pjm.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 15:36:13 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: Axle code 39

Ok look in your owners manual and there is a section that has a table on =
it. In the table you will find your axle code will match up to a gear =
ratio. Hope this helps you out.

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 13:52:16 -0800
From: bpulfrey boxtop.com
Subject: RE: CD changers

I have the same truck only 4 x 2 and a Sony 10 disc cd-player under the
jumpseat on the floor. No problems as of yet with it.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-fordtrucks80up ListService.net
[mailto:owner-fordtrucks80up ListService.net]On Behalf Of Vance
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 1998 6:28 PM
To: Ford Enthusiast List
Subject: CD changers


Im quite new to the list and was wondering about the experiences of
Ford truck owners with installing CD changers in the cab. I have a 1994
F-150 4X4 extended cab with 40/20/40 seats. I already have ham radio
gear installed under the middle seat. Other than using the glove box,
does anyone have any innovative ideas for installing a CD changer. I
don't think there is enough clearance under the back seat, and if there
was, the kids would probably spill soda pop on it!! TIA
vance



+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| List removal instructions on the website. |
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 16:17:00 -0800
From: Mark Ponsford
Subject: Re: Axle Code 39? 92 F250 4x4

>I've got a 92 F250 4x4 and the sticker on the door pillar says the axle
>code is "39". Can someone decode this for me?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chuck Conway
>conway pjm.com

Look at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://uviclib.uvic.ca/staff/mponsford/ford_trucks_info/fseries/
for info.


- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mark Ponsford
Phone: (250) 721-7397 Email: mponsfor uvic.ca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Mar 98 09:02:02 PST
From: "Mike Mueller"
Subject: Re: Ford truck brake problem / + Starter Problem

Hey all!
I have an '89 F150 SC 4x4, 5.8, Rear antilock, etc.
I don't believe I have the same caliper system as a F250 but,
I have always had problems with the front pads wearing out fast!
The truck came with calipers with ceramic pistons.
The first time I replaced the pads I noticed these were chipped around =
the outside but figured it was ok.
The pads lasted maybe 6 months of regular driving.
Thinking the calipers were sticking, I pulled it all apart again.
This time I did a little research and found out that some rebuilt caliper=
s come with steel pistons instead.
I replaced the rotors, the calipers and the pads.
Flushed all the fluid and started again.
6 months later, same thing, pads were down to metal.
Bought new pads, rotors were fine, checked operation of calipers - OK.
6 months later, pads were gone again!
Talked to rep from Ford, (Factory) who said the dealers are aware of the =
prob,
there is no "fix", and they have been putting in a harder compound pad =
so that they last longer.
I countered that I don't want my rotors going away any faster.
I found a semi-metallic pad (don't have the name right here now) that off=
ered lifetime warranty.
My rotors are close to needing to be replaced, and it's almost time to =
replace the pads.
This will be the 3rd. set of these "Lifetime" pads.
The pad job takes me ~1/2 hour and I do it the same time I do regular ser=
vice anyway.
I know for some people it's a pain, but this is how I cope.

On a totally different topic,
This weekend I had to replace my starter for the 4th. time in 5 years. =

The old one came from Autoparts Club, was a year old, and had me baffled.
It sounded like the shaft wasn't getting all the way out to mesh with the=
ring.
I pulled it out, took it to the local Kragens, it tested fine when he ben=
chtested it.
Reinstalled it, same problem. next step was the solenoid, for 10 bucks =
I replaced it and still the same problem.
Then I took the starter out again and took it to another, better (local =
owned) autoparts store.

When the counter guy looked at the starter, he said "an Autoparts Club =
starter, huh?"
He had worked there last and seen many come back.
He bench tested it again and it was strong! The starter gear whipped rig=
ht out there, the motor whirring away.
Then he showed me how if you hook it up to a battery and use cables to =
test it, it's a different ballgame.
The motor had a very hard time turning over and the starter gear barely =
pushed out.
The cables also arc'd a whole lot on the contacts.
We pulled a new motor off the shelf, same battery, same cables, almost =
no arc, great speed out of the motor and gear.
He didn't know exactly what it was within the motor but they (Autoparts =
Club)
knew there was a problem and sent them back to the manufacturer.
I now had a choice, $55 for a Kragens "Lifetime", or $50 for a 3 year war=
ranty from the Local guys.
So, I went back to Kragens. The starter works great now, and in a year..=
. who knows?
Time to replace starter (15 minutes from start to finish) - Really!
Disconnect battery cable, to 9/16ths bolts out, disconnect the one lead =
to starter, reverse procedure, wash hands.


Thanks!

Mike Mueller
The Leasing Dept.
Equipment Leasing and Funding
www.leasingdept.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 23:39:16 EST
From: JSCF250
Subject: Re: Running rich/Rough idle///diagnosis

hey mike, i replaced the fuel pressure regulator and that was the problem. but
when i race it up it fluffs out of the exhaust. no more rich condition. i
didnt do a fuel pump pressure check yet i will have to buy the gauge tomm. 35
bucks at autozone. i guess i have to check the 2 low pressure pumps from both
tanks and the high pressure pump too. i think one of my pumps are gone because
sometimes when i race it up i notice a brief hesitant response. oh well more
money to dump into this truck. when does it ever end? thanks for your help
buddy.

joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 00:22:38 EST
From: FSTFORDS
Subject: Re: Running rich/Rough idle///diagnosis

sorry about the late diagnosis...it should have been my first thought but
when diagnosing others rigs often i forget the miner details since i can't
check myself the four important things...

air....plugged filters,etc.
fuel...psi,correct mixture,good gas,filters,pinched lines,etc.
spark...timing,heat range,gap,voltage,firing order,and most important good
wires.
always check compression!!!

fuel pumps are good idea to change after 100k anyway...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Mar 1998 21:36:06 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: exhaust on 351 windsor

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I talked to you guys a while ago, and I decided to put on a single 3 =
inch exhaust system on my 83 351 W. I have run out of options on where =
to get the parts (I can't make it myself) and Napa will only sell me a 2 =
1/4 dual for 350.00 bucks! Can I get one of those flowmaster or cat =
back type set ups for my engine? If not, could some body point me to =
where I can get the pieces for a single 3 inch off the stock manifolds =
(can't afford both and the pipes are rusting off more every day :( =
sound like crap to with the blown out glass packs)
Thanks
Casey Vandor

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I talked to you guys a while ago, =
and I decided=20
to put on a single 3 inch exhaust system on my 83 351 W.  I have =
run out of=20
options on where to get the parts (I can't make it myself) and Napa will =
only=20
sell me a 2 1/4 dual for 350.00 bucks!  Can I get one of those =
flowmaster=20
or cat back type set ups for my engine?  If not, could some body =
point me=20
to where I can get the pieces for a single 3 inch off the stock =
manifolds (can't=20....


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