fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, February 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 068



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

95 4x ranger FS... [IamGoode aol.com]
351 Exhaust Sys [Stephen Hansen ]
re: Bronco spare/etc. [rockinghorse webtv.net (Randall Goolsby)]
Re: 351 Exhaust Sys [JSC721 aol.com]
Re: Bronco spare/etc. [JSC721 aol.com]
Re: Ignition tester [JSC721 aol.com]
Re: Bronco spare/etc. ["Ryan Penner" ]
Moses Ludel & Early 4x4's [Gary Callahan ]
rusty underbody & engine braking [RubyDesert aol.com]
Re: rusty underbody & engine braking [Ken Payne ]
Re: Ranger: Loose driver/passenger mirrors? [Bakend aol.com]
Re: rusty underbody & engine braking [bgap RAPIDNET.COM]
Re: 302 hp? [Lehmandp aol.com]
Re: Ranger: Loose driver/passenger mirrors? [JSC721 aol.com]
Re: '95 F150 Exhaust System ["Fast Ford" ]
RE: noisy valves [Jim Cannon ]
'99 SD 4x4 hubs ["Sven Setterdahl" ]
hot alternator & batery not holding a charge. [William Woodie

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 09:25:25 EST
From: IamGoode aol.com
Subject: 95 4x ranger FS...

I have posted here a few times, and have tricked out my truck a bit, but need
something I can drive back and forth accross the country.. So I gotta sell it
specs:
95 RANGER EXT CAB WHITE WITH GREY INTERIOR STOCK XLT INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR
APPEARANCE.
- -4 WHEEL DRIVE MANUAL HUBS, T/CASE, AND TRANS
- -4 INCH SUSPENSION LIFT
- -TRAILMASTER SSV SHOCKS
- -CUSTOM REAR DRIVESHAFT
- -ELECTRIC FAN
- -BORLA HEADERS
- -FLOWMASTER MUFFLER 2.5 IN PIPE
- -73MM PRO M MAM
- -63MM TB
- -SUPERCHIPS CHIP (NOT INSTALLED)
THIS TRUCK IS PRETTY FAST FOR A 4.0, IT WILL GO 109MPH NO PROBLEM EVEN ON A
4INCH LIFT. lOOKING TO GET 14,600 FOR IT, BUT WILL HEAR OFFERS. I AM LOCATED
IN CENTRAL CAL. AND WILL CONSIDER PARTIAL TRADE FOR A NEWER MUSTANG.(89-93)
PLEASE RESPOND TO: PRORACR11 AOL.COM THANKS

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 09:47:18 -0600
From: Stephen Hansen
Subject: 351 Exhaust Sys

I put a 2 1/4" Dual on my 92' 351 and thought I would add my opinion.
First I went with the 2 1/4 'cause that was the same size as the two
pipes going into my Catalytic Converter. No sense putting 3" on, it
wouldn't have any positive effect. The Catalytic Converter found a new
home in my garage in case I move back to a state that need it. I put
Dual flowmasters on it. Avoid Glasspacks, A good quality muffler will
out perform a glasspack any day, and for those of us who don't care to
be heard it sounds better. Rather than do a lot of bending at the shop
the remainder of the pipes were ordered, and it was a tight fit getting
the left one around the spare tire. I spent about $225 for the entire
system. Results... Well it sounds better, and maybe I get a little
better mileage, but it is a small jump. I get 9-11 around town, and
12-14 on road trips. Removing all the restriction on the system took
away some of my lower end, taking off in second I have to give it a bit
more rpm's, and I am setting at 1500-1600 rmp's at 55, so my O/D (5th)
is great at the 65-85 range (god I love Montana) so it helps the upper
end. So don't get carried away with the 3" systems, unless you are not
going dual. The cat will go back on when I quit taking it on the road
trips and start towing with it more.
One more note: Those $300 cat-back systems are good, for some/most are
researched for optimum flow with less restrictions. A local muffler shop
won't do any pre testing when bending a corner to get it to fit. Some of
those Cat-Back systems also can be installed by the buyer with minimum
tools in your driveway.
Am thinking of trying a jet computer again, and am waiting on the
results of the one persons Jakebs Ignition system
Steve
83' LTD II
92' F-250 XLT Supercab
50' F-1, Flathead 8.. (some assembly required)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 08:17:04 -0800
From: rockinghorse webtv.net (Randall Goolsby)
Subject: re: Bronco spare/etc.

The reason I asked the weight of the full gas can (thanks,Randy) was
that if you take it,plus the weight of the spare,you have effectively
doubled the amount of weight the carrier is required to handle. I keep
reading these posts(here and abroad) regarding the crappy fuel mileage
people are getting on their F series trucks. I gotta tell you that the
very worst mileage I ever saw on my 94 Bronco (351)was last summer on
our way through Montana.I got right at 14,due to a cruising speed of
90-95mph,occasionally higher than that.I have a 3" exhaust system,use
synthetic 10/30 and was running the stock plugs at the time.I get
15+arond town(with wife driving:-)and 17 on the freeway consistantly.Is
it a possibility that some of these mileage woes are due to plugged or
restricted catalytic convertors?If my mileage ever drops,the first thing
I'm gonna do is to ditch the stock convertor and go with a high-flow
model.I'll install it myself if it is an emissions legal issue.It
wouldn't take too many tanks of fuel to justify the cost of the
replacement.If that doesn't do it,I'll start looking at sensor inputs
for potentially wrong info to the EEC. Just some food for thought......
Randy 94 Bronco EB 85F250 4X4

















------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 11:57:17 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: 351 Exhaust Sys

hey steve,
thanks for the info, so many of us are undecided on which way to go dual or
single 3".my buddy fixed his cats up real nice , he would remove it, slam a
steel pipe through it just a little smaller diameter, then hook it back up and
take the air pump tube and direct it to the air cleaner. we have to pass
emissions here in fl. but his truck would pass with no trouble, as long as you
keep up with the tune ups. all they do at inspection is look under the truck
with a mirror. and low and behold, they dont know a dam thing, just an idea.
good luck.


p.s. i am going to do the same to mine joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 12:05:50 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: Bronco spare/etc.

hey guys if you want to know if your exhaust or cat is clogged, put a vacum
gage on the truck, race it to 2000 rpms if the needle gradually drops to zero,
you have a restricted exhaust, ill tell you a vacum gage is so handy and very
cheap to buy about 15 bucks. and randy if your cat goes bad man, take it off
slam a steel pipe through it reroute the air pump tube to the air cleaner.
reinstall it and you will have no restrictions. all that tube does is pump
fresh air into the cat, and your oxygen sensor is before your cat.and
technically you are still legal from a view. just an idea fellas.

joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 12:24:37 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: Ignition tester

there is a catalog called jcwhitney, they have the testing equipment that you
are looking for, at great prices, you can buy it at your local supermarket or
i will give you the number to call and request a free catalog 312 421-6102
they are located in chicago, i have purchased items from them before and they
are very good.also first you have to check for codes, in your computer, you
have to put the vehicle into dianostic mode, you can do this using a jumper
wire. look up this address, its
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.c-edge.com/shotimes/sho3eeccodes.html it will show you a picture of
the plug you have to jump, and you just count the check engine lite flashes
and thats how you get the codes, you might have a bad sensor, but the code
numbers of the parts are listed in a chilton book for your vehicle. buy it,
or go to the library and borrow it. if you need a computer, call some places,
or check out the junkyards in your area. well good luck man.
joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 10:28:32 -0700
From: "Ryan Penner"
Subject: Re: Bronco spare/etc.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Randall Goolsby
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Sunday, February 22, 1998 9:19 AM
Subject: re: Bronco spare/etc.


The reason I asked the weight of the full gas can (thanks,Randy) was
that if you take it,plus the weight of the spare,you have effectively
doubled the amount of weight the carrier is required to handle. I keep
reading these posts(here and abroad) regarding the crappy fuel mileage
people are getting on their F series trucks. I gotta tell you that the
very worst mileage I ever saw on my 94 Bronco (351)was last summer on
our way through Montana.I got right at 14,due to a cruising speed of
90-95mph,occasionally higher than that.I have a 3" exhaust system,use
synthetic 10/30 and was running the stock plugs at the time.I get
15+arond town(with wife driving:-)and 17 on the freeway consistantly.Is
it a possibility that some of these mileage woes are due to plugged or
restricted catalytic convertors?If my mileage ever drops,the first thing
I'm gonna do is to ditch the stock convertor and go with a high-flow
model.I'll install it myself if it is an emissions legal issue.It
wouldn't take too many tanks of fuel to justify the cost of the
replacement.If that doesn't do it,I'll start looking at sensor inputs
for potentially wrong info to the EEC. Just some food for thought......
Randy 94 Bronco EB 85F250 4X4

Does anyone know If you live in a state that requires a catalytic convertor,
can you change it out to something better without getting in trouble?

Thanks.





















+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| List removal instructions on the website. |
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:25:17 -0800
From: Gary Callahan
Subject: Moses Ludel & Early 4x4's

Anyone know when Ford first offered a 4x4 F-Series pickup? Did the
first F-Series 4x4's have selectable hubs (or always engaged) and a
manually shifted transfer case (or full-time 4-wheel drive)? Does
anyone know how to get in contact with Moses Ludel, writer of the "Ford
F-Series Pickup Owners Bible"?

Gary Callahan
GCallhan prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 14:35:37 EST
From: RubyDesert aol.com
Subject: rusty underbody & engine braking

Greetings. I'm a relative newbie to the world of trucks and I have a few
questions about my 98 Ford F150. Please pardon any inaccuracies in
terminology!

1. I recently decided to check the lug nuts on my tires and was surprised,
when I pulled the wheel covers off, to find a lot of rust around the lug nuts
and in the area right in the center of the wheel. That prompted me to look
under the truck and I was even more surprised to find quite a bit of rust
under there. When the truck was still on the dealer's lot I thought I looked
at it pretty carefully, but perhaps I didn't look underneath very well,
assuming that it would be fine since the truck is new -- and being a newcomer
to the world of understanding how autos work, I'm not sure I would've known
what to look for anyway. So my question is: is it normal to have a good bit
of noticeable rust on a truck that I've only had for around a month? It came
with around 120 miles on it b/c it had been a dealer trade, and I've since put
1200 miles on it, but mostly in Arizona, whose climate isn't known for
ravaging the underbellies of vehicles. Is there anything I should do about
it?

2. The car I had before this was an SUV and it had the nifty feature of
seeming to drop to a lower gear whenever I braked in order to come to a stop.
That cut down on the amount of brakes I needed to use quite a bit and I was so
used to the effect that when I first test drove the F150 I thought something
was wrong with its brakes, b/c it took so much longer to stop. Granted, it's
a heavier vehicle, but nevertheless it does not have that "engine braking"
feature and I'm wondering if that's something that can be added. I don't even
know the proper name for it! Is it an engine brake? an exhaust brake? Is it
simply a feature of the SUV's Honda engine that isn't available on the Ford
engine? FWIW, I have the 5.4L V8 engine on the truck.

Any advice, suggestions, words of wisdom, etc. most welcome! I've enjoyed
using this list thus far to learn a lot more about my new truck.

- --Amy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 17:25:41 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: rusty underbody & engine braking

At 02:35 PM 2/22/98 EST, you wrote:
>Greetings. I'm a relative newbie to the world of trucks and I have a few
>questions about my 98 Ford F150. Please pardon any inaccuracies in
>terminology!
>
>1. I recently decided to check the lug nuts on my tires and was surprised,
>when I pulled the wheel covers off, to find a lot of rust around the lug nuts
>and in the area right in the center of the wheel. That prompted me to look
>under the truck and I was even more surprised to find quite a bit of rust
>under there. When the truck was still on the dealer's lot I thought I looked
>at it pretty carefully, but perhaps I didn't look underneath very well,
>assuming that it would be fine since the truck is new -- and being a newcomer
>to the world of understanding how autos work, I'm not sure I would've known
>what to look for anyway. So my question is: is it normal to have a good bit
>of noticeable rust on a truck that I've only had for around a month? It came
>with around 120 miles on it b/c it had been a dealer trade, and I've since put
>1200 miles on it, but mostly in Arizona, whose climate isn't known for
>ravaging the underbellies of vehicles. Is there anything I should do about
>it?

This is normal with any vehicle. Exposed steel can "flash rust" in less
than 15 minutes. In just the right conditions I've had a water pump that
I was getting ready to paint get surface rust in the 30 minutes it took
for it to dry off. I washed it off with water. After removing the rust
I cleaned it with disk brake cleaner and had no problem. A small amount
of rust is no big deal. The steel on the truck is thick. The rust you
have to worry about it body panel rust. These are galvanized to prevent
rust.

>
>2. The car I had before this was an SUV and it had the nifty feature of
>seeming to drop to a lower gear whenever I braked in order to come to a stop.
>That cut down on the amount of brakes I needed to use quite a bit and I was so
>used to the effect that when I first test drove the F150 I thought something
>was wrong with its brakes, b/c it took so much longer to stop. Granted, it's
>a heavier vehicle, but nevertheless it does not have that "engine braking"
>feature and I'm wondering if that's something that can be added. I don't even
>know the proper name for it! Is it an engine brake? an exhaust brake? Is it
>simply a feature of the SUV's Honda engine that isn't available on the Ford
>engine? FWIW, I have the 5.4L V8 engine on the truck.

Automatic transmissions tend to stay in the highest gear possible, except
when giving lots of gas. I don't know why your Honda did this. Engine
braking is not normal for automatic transmissions.

>
>Any advice, suggestions, words of wisdom, etc. most welcome! I've enjoyed
>using this list thus far to learn a lot more about my new truck.
>
>--Amy

Did you know we now have a new mailing list specifically for 1997 and
newer trucks? If you want to be on it, email me (kpayne mindspring.com)
and I'll add you to it.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 17:47:44 EST
From: Bakend aol.com
Subject: Re: Ranger: Loose driver/passenger mirrors?

In a message dated 98-02-21 17:44:31 EST, you write:

> Has anyone else with an '88 Ranger or any year for that matter had a
> problem with loose rearview mirrors(passenger and driver side)?
I have a 1987 ranger and the mirrors are too tight to even adjust! Not much
help I know but you asked.
D Baken

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 18:08:30 -0600
From: bgap RAPIDNET.COM
Subject: Re: rusty underbody & engine braking

Ken Payne wrote:
>
> At 02:35 PM 2/22/98 EST, you wrote:
> >Greetings. I'm a relative newbie to the world of trucks and I have a few
> >questions about my 98 Ford F150. Please pardon any inaccuracies in
> >terminology!
> >
> >1. I recently decided to check the lug nuts on my tires and was surprised,
> >when I pulled the wheel covers off, to find a lot of rust around the lug nuts
> >and in the area right in the center of the wheel. That prompted me to look
> >under the truck and I was even more surprised to find quite a bit of rust
> >under there. When the truck was still on the dealer's lot I thought I looked
> >at it pretty carefully, but perhaps I didn't look underneath very well,
> >assuming that it would be fine since the truck is new -- and being a newcomer
> >to the world of understanding how autos work, I'm not sure I would've known
> >what to look for anyway. So my question is: is it normal to have a good bit
> >of noticeable rust on a truck that I've only had for around a month? It came
> >with around 120 miles on it b/c it had been a dealer trade, and I've since put
> >1200 miles on it, but mostly in Arizona, whose climate isn't known for
> >ravaging the underbellies of vehicles. Is there anything I should do about
> >it?
>
> This is normal with any vehicle. Exposed steel can "flash rust" in less
> than 15 minutes. In just the right conditions I've had a water pump that
> I was getting ready to paint get surface rust in the 30 minutes it took
> for it to dry off. I washed it off with water. After removing the rust
> I cleaned it with disk brake cleaner and had no problem. A small amount
> of rust is no big deal. The steel on the truck is thick. The rust you
> have to worry about it body panel rust. These are galvanized to prevent
> rust.
>

Take it back to your dealer and ask him if he wants to maintain good
relations with you. Tell him to take care of it, you paid good money
for a quality vehicle and do not deserve to be treated this way!!! A
good prep job will keep the rust off, and you don't need to purchase the
undercoating rip off for this either. This just isn't right. I am
sorry to disagree with the above poster, but new truck rust just isn't
right and needs to be addressed.
Regards,
Tony

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 21:08:51 EST
From: Lehmandp aol.com
Subject: Re: 302 hp?

In a message dated 98-02-20 11:23:59 EST, you write:

> I'm not sure if I have an AOD or an E4OD..How can I tell? How did your
> Eletrical work out to be? I'm especially intrested in the firing order.
So
> the HO and truck short blocks are the same? physically and internally?

The E4OD has a push-button overdrive can-cel. (Had to mis-spell "can-cel" so
the email would get through the list server without being rejected.)

I made no change to electrical. However, we had planned to go with Ford
Motorsports Mass Air conversion. Only, it wasn't until the test drive that
they discovered the incompatibilities with the E4OD (this unit was intended
for AOD, they don't make one for the E4OD!). The conversion has its own
injector harness because it converts to sequential port vs. bank-to-bank.
When they re-installed the original harness, they discovered that one injector
was not firing because the harness was actually wired wrong for the #7
injector! So I didn't get Mass Air, but I did get all eight!

If Ford Motorsports would ship p/n M-9000-L58, Mass Air conversion 5.8L w/E4OD
control, then I could install the H.O. cam and change the timing in my 5.0L to
match the 5.8L. However, I would give up the 4x4 lamp on the dash, since this
computer is intended for the 2-wheel drive Lightning.

- -David :-)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 21:18:39 EST
From: JSC721 aol.com
Subject: Re: Ranger: Loose driver/passenger mirrors?

go and ask the ford dealer or the guys at the body shop at the dealer, they
might be able to help you. if you need replacements a mail order catalog
called jcwhitney has them at a good price, call them at 312 431-6102 ask them
for a free catalog, they have every part for your truck in this catalog. good
luck.

joe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 26 Dec 1997 21:47:26 -0600
From: "Fast Ford"
Subject: Re: '95 F150 Exhaust System

Get Flowmaster Mufflers put on it.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Giddens, Scott
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Friday, February 20, 1998 7:20 PM
Subject: '95 F150 Exhaust System


>Hi all,
>
>I would like to give my truck a little more sound and more power from
>the exhaust system.
>I have the 351, 5.8 liter engine with the longer cab and 6-3/4' bed.
>
>I was wondering if this is such a good idea or not. I don't particularly
>like a loud exhaust system
>but just having the sound of rushing air coming out of the tailpipe
>seems a little funny (and restricting).
>
>Scott
>
>
>
>+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 21:58:39 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: noisy valves

From: bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)
Subject: Re: noisy valves

On Fri, 20 Feb 1998 13:29:25 -0500 William Woodie
writes:
>Sean Woodie wrote:
>
>i have an 87 f-150 300 I-6 4.9. under moderate aceleration you hear a
>clicking noise from under the hood.it sounds like the valves are
>causing the noise. do they need to be adjusted, replaced? the timing
gears
>have just recently been replaced. the engine has 130 thous.on it. any
ideas
>of what could be wrong, thanxs.
>+---------------
To me it sounds more like pre-ignition or "pinging" because it does this
under moderate load. Valve rattle usually occurs at startup before the
lifters get their oil supply. You might try running a tank (or half of a
tank) of premium fuel to help diagnose the pinging (or ratteling). The
fix would be A: run premium fuel, or B: retard the distributer a smidge.
The fuel injected engines are supposed to have a knock sensor that
retards the ignition when it senses pre-ignition, so this may apply to
you also. Another variable is the vacuum advance on the distributor may
be faulty or getting the wrong signal from the engine. Regardless, I
would fix it as this could cause a burned piston.



Actually, I have heard from several owners of this I-6 engine that it is
normal sound under these conditions. Only speculation as to what it is,
but a tank full of premium gas will show you that it not "ping". Ignore
it.

- --

Jim Cannon
Houston, Texas
1980 F-150 300 CID I-6
1929 Model A 200 CID I-4
"You guys pair up in groups of three, then line up in a circle"
- Bill Peterson, a Florida State football coach

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 23:20:34 -0600
From: "Sven Setterdahl"
Subject: '99 SD 4x4 hubs

- -----Original Message-----
From: fordtrucks80up-digest
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net

Date: Sunday, February 22, 1998 5:33 AM
Subject: '99 SD 4x4 locking hubs

The local Ford dealer just got a new F250 in. It's a super cab 4x4 w/ the
Powerstroke. Anyway, does anybody know how the locking hubs work. This
truck had the electric shift on the dash but manual hubs. I did notice the
hubs had two positions. One was "auto", and I think the other was "locked."
It could of said unlocked but I'm not sure on that.

I took a look under it at the drivetrain. Those are some serious U-joints
up front ;)

Another thing I noticed was the trailer wiring. It only had a 4-pin
connector. I thought this was a little stange since my '97 F150 came with a
7-pin connector and an adapter for four.

I believe that it was a longbed, but it didn't look as stretched out as the
previous supercab longbeds. I guess the softened edges make the difference.

Enough of my ramblings,

Sven

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 12:02:45 -0500
From: William Woodie
Subject: hot alternator & batery not holding a charge.

Sean Woodie from New Jersey wrote:


i own a 87 f-150 4.9 I-6, with 130,000 miles. i shut it off for the
night and when i came back in the morning it wouldnt start. first i
cleaned the batery terminals of corosion and tried again still didnt
start. next i jumped it finally i got it to start off a jump. for about
15 mins the baytery held a steady 10-12 volts or so. but while it was
runnin you could smell an electric motor burining at first i thought it
may have been one of my amplifiers or stero but the smell was not in the
cab it was coming from under the hood. so i took it for a drive and when....

---

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