fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, February 10 1998 Volume 02 : Number 055



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Thanks [John Cassis ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #54 [Pjx488 aol.com]
Modification report [David McDonald ]
Re: 1999 F-SD info [Randy Robb ]
RE: Stalling [Michael_Skerrett ccmail.orl.lmco.com]
Re: Empty Weight [alanh galaxy.nsc.com (The Hepburn)]
Nominations [Ken Payne ]
Rangers?? ["Randy L. Hatcher" ]
re: Air Intake [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Re: Cleaning the top. [Paul Laughlin ]
Re: radio works ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Re: Used Auto Parts Dealers ["Dave Resch"]
Re: 1999 F-SD info ["Jeff Schapker" ]
Re: cold front grills for diesels [Jim Lujan ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #54 ["Sven Setterdahl" ]
Proportioning Valve [BGood38075 aol.com]
351HO [yhtlines surfari.net]
Re: 1999 F-SD info [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Re: 1999 F-SD info [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
re: Empty Weight [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
351 windsor ["Casey Vandor" ]
Broken Accelerator Cable [Mitch Biarsky ]
Re: 351HO [Randy ]
Re: Empty Weight [Randy ]
Re: cold front grills for diesels [Lt4x4 aol.com]
Re: Used Auto Parts Dealers [FSTFORDS aol.com]
Re: MSD Ignitions ...BETER CHOICE [FSTFORDS aol.com]
Re: 351HO [FSTFORDS aol.com]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 07:25:06 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: Thanks

Thanks to all who posted some help on my poping noise and what to use to =
get the spindel nut loose. Had to work this w/e and did'nt get to it. =
Left the truck parked this w/e as much as possible. This is realy bad =
I'm usualy pretty much on top of things as far as maintinance goes but I =
just let this one go. I should have looked into this a long before now. =
Anyway thanks, I'm considering just dropping it off at the shop tonight =
instead of doing it myself. It sounds a little more involved than I =
wanted to get into. Last time I looked at doing this I could'nt find the =
tool for the spindel-nut. Anyway like I said thanks for the help I'll =
tell you how it went at the shop. Just out of curiosity how much was it =
to convert to manual locking hubs? And why are the auto-locking hubs so =
delaicate compared to the manuals? What are these plastic parts in the =
auto-locking ones I keep hearing about?

Thanks,
John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 09:44:50 EST
From: Pjx488 aol.com
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #54

I downloaded the file. Thank you


Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 09:09:04 -0800
From: David McDonald
Subject: Modification report

Hiya all,

Here's a reports on this weekend's knucle skinnin... My truck ('90
F250 351 5 spd) is once again runnin, and better than ever. Last weeke I
installed a Gibson Cat Back. I sent a short message to the list
regarding that one, so I won't repeat it. Saturday I put on the K&N
filter charger. It went on slick as all get out, no problems, about 15
minutes of relaxed work.

Then came the fun... goin after my oil leaks in the valve cover
gaskets. Lord there is a bunch of crap on those engines! Smog hoses,
EGR, more wiring on the throttle body than there is a whole '68 VW bug.
Vacuum hoses runnin all over the place. I pulled out the masking tape
and a pen and went to work. mark and yank, mark and yank. Got it all
off, pulled the valve cover, and while I was in the area replaced the
plugs and wires. Thanks to all on the list for the advice on those bolts
on the upper intake manifold, the craftsman flex extension worked like a
charm. I didn't even know they made those :)

After doin both the valve covers, I got to installing the MSD 6A. It
was fairly easy, the wors part was tryin to find a place to mount the
thing! I finally wound up moving one of the electrical connection
harnesses on the driver's side near the firewall, and screwing the MSD
to the top of the fender well. I had to lengthen the power wire, but the
rest went on slick. Easy directions, good fitting connections. Put
everything back together, and Vroooom, started right away :)

I now have more power, as evidenced by and uphill pull at full
throttle. I got to 45 mph before the mods, and on Sunday I got to 50
mph. It sounded like a monster :) I'll have mileage figures the next
time I take a road trip with it, I used to get 11 mpg from home to
Pueblo and back, a trip of about 300 miles. I generally drive about 75
mph.

Anyway. Initial impressions are mostly positive. The MSD smoothed
out the idle and improved throttle response immensly. The Gibson is
quiet at idle (about like stock) and runnin speeds, but punch it under
load and it growls like thunder. The K&N makes an intersting sound under
the hood, The factory air box did a good job muffling that air sucking
sound. Glad I got rid of it, I like that sound :) The only negative I
have is at about 5100 RPM. The engine won't go any higher. I don't have
the 6AL, so I didn't expect rev limiting. I have the feeling I know what
it is, the stock air hoses had springs in them to keep their shape. I
figured that takin em out would smooth out the airflow. Anyone else
heard of Bernelli's (sp?) effect? Air travelling at high speeds through
a tube tends to make the tube suck down flat. I think that's what I'm
doin at high revs, I'll check it out sometime this week.


Sorry to be so long winded.

Dave McDonald
'90 F250 HD 4x4 351 5 spd
Gibson cat back
K&N filer charger
MSD 6a
:)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 10:09:26 -0600
From: Randy Robb
Subject: Re: 1999 F-SD info

Jim, I hope when you quoted a GVWR of 13700 lbs., this is the what's
called the wet weight, (all you clothes, supplies, food, water, waste,
etc. included), otherwise you're going to be over spec on the truck.
Pulling the 5th wheel on flat land may not be a problem, larger hills
and mountain will, as well a braking, and insurance legality. Gearing
is also important especially if you'r getting the automatic, because the
gear ratios are very wide.
At max. GCVWR, Ford didn't really recommend towing in OverDrive, at
least with the E4OD.
I'm inclined to use the same 'less 10%' rule that hitch makers do
regarding weight (ie. a 15K hitch, max trailer weight = 13500 lbs.), for
the truck as well (ie, 13800 - 10% = 12420 lbs. trailer).

Just my thoughts,
Randy

> I have a fifth wheel with a GVWR of 13,700 #. I have ordered a SD F350
> Powerstroke, 4.10 rear end, super cab,SRW, 2X4 etc. that is rated to tow
> 13,800 #. I would have preferred a dualie but then my maximum tow rating
> would have been 13,500. What are your thoughts about towing a fifth wheel
> with GVWR of 13,700# with a dualie rated at 13,500# relative to warranties,
> performance etc. I guess the rationalization would be that we "will never
> load the unit to the max".
>
> Second question, if you don't mind. I herd that the rear of the SD F350 is
> so high that it causes a problem hitching to some fifth wheels. Would you
> provide the dimensions for the SD F350 2X4 from the floor of the box(bed)
> to
> the ground, from the top rail of the box to the ground and from the top
> rail
> of the box to floor of the box.
>
> Thanks,
>
> JIm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 11:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Michael_Skerrett ccmail.orl.lmco.com
Subject: RE: Stalling

This happened to me on two of my previously owned Ford products. The
first one was an '82 LTD with a 351W engine in it. A small pinhole
leak formed in the exhaust pipe just prior to the muffler which blew
hot exhaust air outboard towards the driver's side of the car, which
as it happens is where Ford ran the fuel line from the tank. This was
my wife's car (I was still driving a real nice '72 Explorer 1/2 ton at
the time), and every time this would happen and leave her stranded, by
the time I got there to assist the engine would start and run fine
(the fuel had cooled off enough to flow again). The last time it
happened I took the cover off the float chamber in the carburetor and
saw the fuel boiling, and knew she wasn't imagining things. I
replaced the exhaust pipe and added a piece of aluminum sheet metal
between the muffler/pipe and the fuel line. Ran fine after that.
Same thing happened on my '86 F150 also with a 351W. Same fix worked.

I'd have a look at what's near your fuel lines and isolate any heat
source as much as possible. On an RV that could come from aux power
units, A/C, refrigerators, or the engine components. Good luck....


Date: Sun, 08 Feb 1998 10:31:00 -0800
From: taffydog pacbell.net
Subject: Intermittent Stalling

I have a problem with a 1986 Ford 460 cu in V8. The engine is part of
an E350 chassis as part of a motorhome. After driving for a couple of
hours (or less). The engine begins to lose power and eventually
stall.
If you wait 20 minutes or so, it restarts and runs normally. I did
have
the fuel filters checked and replaced the one near the carburetor.

I would appreciate any ideas. Thanks

Rick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 08:27:51 -0800
From: alanh galaxy.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Subject: Re: Empty Weight

> What is the empty weight of my 97 F-150 XLT supercab, short wheelbase,
> 4.2L V-6, auto trans? The book only talks about max weights and limits.
> Thank-you.

If you're in California, the unladen weight is printed on your
registration...trucks get commercial plates here in the "golden"
state, and that includes a weight fee based on the unladen weight.

If you're not in California, your state might have similar taxes.

- ---

Alan Hepburn | |
National Semiconductor | Proud to part of the |
Santa Clara, Ca | Evil Right Wing Conspiracy |
alanh galaxy.nsc.com | |

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 13:23:28 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Nominations

To those so inclined...

To those have haven't already done so, stop by Carlounge's
Top 10 Automotive Sites nomination page and enter a nomination
for Ford Truck Enthusiasts (http://www.ford-trucks.com). Your
vote is appreciated.

Thanks,
Ken
Admin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 14:19:18 -0500 (EST)
From: "Randy L. Hatcher"
Subject: Rangers??

does anyone know where there is an used auto parts dealer{s} for
Ford Rangers near Gainesville,Florida???
thanks..please e-mail off the list...


afn23242 afn.org
Randy Hatcher

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
those that have minds don't use them,those that do can't think straight.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 14:55:32, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: re: Air Intake

Hi,

I've installed the air intake system you are describing and it IS
worth it. I put it on a 4.0L, so I can imagine how much power comes
out of a 2.3L. Check out this site: www.sky.net.~wkurtz then go to
"Kurtz Kustomz Motorsports." He has this stuff available. He is
also a great help to any questions you may have. Oh yeah, you can
download a sound wave with an acceleration test with his 2.3L with
the air intake system. Sounds mean, and so does mine!

Josh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 12:09:01 -0800
From: Paul Laughlin
Subject: Re: Cleaning the top.

FPonzani aol.com wrote:
>
> My '91 Bronco has stains on the top from a black cherry tree dropping
> it's
> fruit on it. The fiberglass top is tan. I don't want to ruin the
> finish.
> What's the best way to clean it? Simple washing with soapy water is
> not quite
> doing it.

Some RV owners use a product called "Dri-Wash-and-Gard". I think that
is the product name. They use it to remove the black lines that seem to
be so pervasive on RVs. Should also work on your fiberglass top. It
uses only a minimal amount of water. Like, one bucket of water to wash
a motor home.
Paul in Portland ORFPonzani aol.com wrote:

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 14:05:56 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: radio works

Casey Vandor wrote:

> I looked for that batt or battery fuse slot, but I don't have one. I did
> run a complete separate circuit for my radio though. A lot of time, two
> and a half hours!, but the radio doesn't buzz anymore. What a releif,
> thanks to all you people out there who kept up with the problem.

Congratulations, Casey! I promised before the weekend that I would tell you
how my '95 ground was wired. I guess it doesn't matter now, but for the
record, here it is:

The negative battery cable has two wires coming from the terminal end: one
larger gauge wire that goes down to the engine block, and another smaller
gauge wire (only about a foot long (30cm for you SI-unit guys)) that runs to
a terminal post on the inside of the fender. Ground wires from the wiring
harness terminate here, and it would be an ideal place to wire your radio to
(with a separate wire).

I hope you ran an in-line fuse from the new battery lead you installed. This
is an important safety feature. Enjoy your noise-free radio!

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 13:28:04 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Used Auto Parts Dealers

>From: Dave Armbruster
>Subject: Used Auto Parts Dealers
Yo Dave:

My favorite Ford places in Denver are:

Truckford, Inc. 303-781-7865 -- all Ford trucks, nothin' else!

Denver Ford Parts 303-295-2668 -- if it's Ford, they got it!

Truck Parts Specialists 303-321-2000 -- variety of parts, all makes.

Fair Auto & Truck Wrecking 303-934-9326 -- variety of parts, biggest Ford
truck parts selection in town!

I think Truckford specializes more in F trucks and Broncos, but they might
have some Ranger stuff, too.

Good luck.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 16:07:34 -0600
From: "Jeff Schapker"
Subject: Re: 1999 F-SD info

I agree with Randy, if you are going to run that close to the maximum
loaded trailer weight, time to step up to a F-450 with 4.88 gears rated at
16800#. In my opinion the DWR is the only way to go. F-350 DWR come with a
rear stabilizer bar, which is a must in my book for towing any kind of
trailer, plus the extra track width DRW provide. SAFETY is the biggest
reason to buy a dually, if you blow a tire on SWR at 60 mph pulling this
kind of weight, there is no backup and things could get messy very quick.
How must weight would you feel safe with bringing to a stop if you blow a
tire on a SWR? Something to think about.
Just my opinion,
Jeff
- --


>Jim, I hope when you quoted a GVWR of 13700 lbs., this is the what's
>called the wet weight, (all you clothes, supplies, food, water, waste,
>etc. included), otherwise you're going to be over spec on the truck.
>Pulling the 5th wheel on flat land may not be a problem, larger hills
>and mountain will, as well a braking, and insurance legality. Gearing
>is also important especially if you'r getting the automatic, because the
>gear ratios are very wide.
>At max. GCVWR, Ford didn't really recommend towing in OverDrive, at
>least with the E4OD.
>I'm inclined to use the same 'less 10%' rule that hitch makers do
>regarding weight (ie. a 15K hitch, max trailer weight = 13500 lbs.), for
>the truck as well (ie, 13800 - 10% = 12420 lbs. trailer).
>
>Just my thoughts,
>Randy
>
>> I have a fifth wheel with a GVWR of 13,700 #. I have ordered a SD F350
>> Powerstroke, 4.10 rear end, super cab,SRW, 2X4 etc. that is rated to tow
>> 13,800 #. I would have preferred a dualie but then my maximum tow
rating
>> would have been 13,500. What are your thoughts about towing a fifth wheel
>> with GVWR of 13,700# with a dualie rated at 13,500# relative to
warranties,
>> performance etc. I guess the rationalization would be that we "will
never
>> load the unit to the max".
>>
>> Second question, if you don't mind. I herd that the rear of the SD F350
is
>> so high that it causes a problem hitching to some fifth wheels. Would
you
>> provide the dimensions for the SD F350 2X4 from the floor of the box(bed)
>> to
>> the ground, from the top rail of the box to the ground and from the top
>> rail
>> of the box to floor of the box.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> JIm
>+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 16:46:00 -0700
From: Jim Lujan
Subject: Re: cold front grills for diesels

Nathan,

I have the same truck, and I ordered a Deflecta Shield ColdWeather Cover/Screen
combo. I ordered it from 4WPW. It snaps on using the plastic snaps with the
3M adhesive backing.

The truck definitely warms up more quickly! What used to take 5-6 miles
to warm up now takes about a mile. I believe Lund makes the snap in inserts.

If you go over to Jason's PS Page there is a photo of the truck. You can
see little black dots on the grill.

If it would help to see what it looks like, I can send you a photo of my
truck with it on.

-Jim-

'97 F350 PS 4x4 CCab LB - Banks Stage II Enhanced

At 11:44 AM 2/7/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi there,
>
>I've got a diesel ('97 F350 4x4 CC PS, built early 12/97 not that any of
>that matters just that it's a Ford); I've noticed a lot of trucks around
>here (Spokane, WA) with grill panels to presumably help the truck warm
>up.
>
>Most of my trips are very short currently, since I only work and have no
>life (except the Sunday ski trips :-) tomorrow's Sunday!), and the truck
>never warms up...
>
>Do these cold front things work?
>What's a good one?
>I've seen some that are multiple pieces of plastic that snap into the
>factory grille, and require nothing permanent; I've seen some quilted
>plastic things that require snaps... Any suggestions on what's good,
>good looking and hopefully minor on permanent alterations?
>
>Thanks,
>
>N. Ingersoll
>ningersoll packetengines.com
>+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 18:55:53 -0600
From: "Sven Setterdahl"
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #54

- -----Original Message-----
From: fordtrucks80up-digest
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net

Date: Monday, February 09, 1998 5:41 AM
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #54



>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 8 Feb 1998 20:05:20 EST
>From: ACMERCG aol.com
>Subject: 302 hp?
>
> Anyone know the HP ratings for a 92 F-150? For a 92 Mustang?
>
A '92 Mustang 5.0 was rated at 225HP. It has the HO engine, roler lifters.
The trucks had the non-HO engine. I think they were around 200-205HP.

>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 08 Feb 1998 23:17:11 -0800
>From: Randy
>Subject: Re: HP
>
>David T Sanchez wrote:
>>
>[snip]
>
>
>I've heard that some 351W's used roller lifters in them. Does anyone
>know if this is true? If it is, does anyone know what years? My
>Haynes manual does mention this, but not very specific about when.
>Are they only in the HO motors? If so, this would be on more
>difference along w/the cam...
>Thanks,
>Randy
>
If the 351s were the same as the 5.0s, roller lifters in the HO, and not in
the non-HO. '85 was the first year for the 5.0HO engines, so I'd assume
about thesame for the 351s.

Sven

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 21:04:55 EST
From: BGood38075 aol.com
Subject: Proportioning Valve

I have an 86 F-150 that Im currently restoring. My current delema is the
braking system . I replaced the rear brake shoes, wheel cylinders and the line
from the drivers wheel cylinder to the attachment point on the axle. The
problem is I cant bleed the rear brakes. Im assuming its the proportioning
valve that wont let the fluid pressurize the rear brakes. The battery is dead
so I cant supply current to the valve ; if that resets its position.OR -could
it be there is a leak somwhere between the axle and the valve and the absentce
of pressure wont center the valve; Im not sure what the problem is. Help!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 18:49:00
From: yhtlines surfari.net
Subject: 351HO

Randy asked about when the roller tappet 351 was introduced in trucks. I
had the same question about 302's so called the SVO hotline. All the info I
had indicated that 88 was a transition year. Well SVO told me the same
thing. As for 302's somewhere along there, Ford switched to the same block
as the 5.0 Mustang, and dropped the truck block. You cant tell if it is a
roller motor or not externally, have to remove the intake. I suspect you
could tell by pushrod length if you were knowledgeable, tho. So I bet there
are a lot of 88-351's in the same box, ie, some roller cams, some tappet.
Our 302 is a tappet cam. SVO does sell a conversion kit, so do others. Have
heard that the roller cam is worth 15HP in reduced friction....maybe just
wishful thinking, but GM and Ford both use roller cams now.

Dave Lampert

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 21:46:39, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: Re: 1999 F-SD info

Sorry, but I don't know what the QC problem is right now. Hopefully
we'll find out soon. As far as I can tell, it is only for the
Strokers. I have been told that many dealerships have V10s around.
Josh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 22:03:51, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: Re: 1999 F-SD info

Dale,

Which cab are you going with? Reg, super or crew? How about single
or dual rear wheel?
Josh

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 20:21:58, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: re: Empty Weight

Your empty weight is about4300 lbs.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 15:58:46 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: 351 windsor

Before I bought my truck from my grandfather, he had the motor tested on
the machine (can't think of the name right now) had I been into trucks
when I bought it, I would have kept the sheet, but I figured it was
useless, (kicking myself now!) The horsepower was right at 250, don't know
at what rpm, cause I threw the sheet out. Mine is amlost all stock except
for a K&N filter and a totally free flowing exhaust, (till May when I have
some more cash to throw into it). It too is a 2 barrell, with the
Motorcraft 7200, so maybe yours puts out a bit more than you said.
Casey

>>>I have a 85 351W and I too have been interested in getting 210 hp out of
this engine, currently I think I'm getting about 145 or so. Lotsa
torque but no HP. Mine's a 2 barrel. Do you or anyone else out there
know what changes have to be made to the LoPo 351 W to make it into a
HiPo 351W? Could you be a specific as possible. Thanks

Walt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 09 Feb 1998 23:06:54 -0500
From: Mitch Biarsky
Subject: Broken Accelerator Cable

Hi All,

I have an '86 F250 351 4V, with a broken accelerator cable. I was able
to detach the one
end from the firewall, but am having one heck of a time detaching it
from the carb end. Any
hints or tricks, besides brute force???

TIA, Mitch

BTW: I called 8 Ford dealers for the cable and got 3 different part #
and cable lengths...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 00:48:34 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: 351HO

yhtlines surfari.net wrote:
>
> Randy asked about when the roller tappet 351 was introduced in trucks. I
> had the same question about 302's so called the SVO hotline. All the info I
> had indicated that 88 was a transition year. Well SVO told me the same
> thing.

[snip]

Figures. The '87 is kind of the oddball of that era, it was the first
of the '87 to '92 body style, but the last one w/the 351W carburated
motor.

Have heard that the roller cam is worth 15HP in reduced
friction....maybe just
> wishful thinking, but GM and Ford both use roller cams now.
>
Actually, the 15 HP gain is not outrageous at all. In fact, you can
actually gain (in some motors) up to a 100HP increase w/a cam alone!
Now I imagine that's starting w/a big block motor and the cam lobes
would be so radical that you would never get the thing to idle...ever,
but I have read that. Also, one of the driving forces for the mfgs.
to start using the roller lifters was increased fuel economy to
satisfy CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy), and the second reason:
better performance. I plan to do some engine mods this spring and one
includes a roller cam set, since I probably don't have one and maybe
match up a set of stamped rocker arms w/the roller tip to help reduce
a little more friction.

Randy
'Brew'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 00:54:12 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Empty Weight

The Hepburn wrote:

> If you're in California, the unladen weight is printed on your
> registration...
[snip]

What is the airspeed velocity of an unladen F-150? (something for the
python fans)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 10 Feb 1998 00:21:26 EST
From: Lt4x4 aol.com
Subject: Re: cold front grills for diesels

I too have seen a buch of them around. I think Lund is a real popular brand
to go with. They cost around $50 adn don't require modifications.



I've got a diesel ('97 F350 4x4 CC PS, built early 12/97 not that any of
that matters just that it's a Ford); I've noticed a lot of trucks around
here (Spokane, WA) with grill panels to presumably help the truck warm
up.

Most of my trips are very short currently, since I only work and have no
life (except the Sunday ski trips :-) tomorrow's Sunday!), and the truck
never warms up...

Do these cold front things work?
What's a good one?
I've seen some that are multiple pieces of plastic that snap into the
factory grille, and require nothing permanent; I've seen some quilted
plastic things that require snaps... Any suggestions on what's good,
good looking and hopefully minor on permanent alterations?
....


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