fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, February 3 1998 Volume 02 : Number 045



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

3.0 Gas Milage [John Cassis ]
Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts.... ["Steve Brown"
No start 302 EFI ["jccooper" ]
Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts.... [David McDonald ]
Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts.... [David McDonald ]
RE: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #43 ["Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Re: Trailer Wiring and Transmission Cooler [Chad Royse
RE: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #43 ["Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
RE: 85 4x4 driveline clunk ["Posluszny, Walt (posl)" ]
Re: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk [peakbzsrvc juno.com (Mike Mueller)]
Re: '80 F-250 ["Dave Resch"]
Ranger Prices [John Cassis ]
Re: 92' Bronco Engine Swaps ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Which Exhaust? [David Chapman ]
Re: 92' Bronco Engine Swaps [cfoye BayNetworks.COM (Chris Foye)]
Re: No start 302 EFI [Floyd J Hagen ]
Re: 3.0 Gas Milage [JBien45204 aol.com]
Re: No start 302 EFI [ACMERCG aol.com]
RE: 3.0 Gas Milage ["Chapman, David P" ]
Re: 3.0 Gas Milage [Chad Royse ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 06:44:38 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: 3.0 Gas Milage

Jeff,
So what is the product? Fuel additive or oil additive? I am curoius. As =
far as your problems skiing have you tried positioning yourself, with no =
slack in the rope, off to the side of the boat instead of behind it on =
take offs? I pull a 200 pound budy up on slalom with my 115 up like =
this. It sounds wierd but it gives the boat some time to build up the =
RPMs befor it gets the full load of your weight. If you want a little =
better description of how to do this tell me when you e-mail me back =
with the product info.=20

John Cassis
The Danger Ranger
93 STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 08:44:15 -0600
From: "Steve Brown"
Subject: Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts....

Dave,

This applies to my 95 Bronco with the 351...I assume from your description
that the intake manifold is similar (curved with the runners extending over
the passenger side valve cover:

I will assume you have already removed the vacuum tree & throttle body.

1. Get a stool or other item to stand on & place it in front of the truck,
slightly to the driver side.
2. Stand on the stool.
3. I used a 1/4" socket wrench (can't remember bolt size off the top of my
head)...I believe you just need a deep socket, but a flexible shaft
extension (about $4 at Sears) helps...might also use a single u-joint
extension.
4. Lean in the engine bay & manuever so that your stomach/hips support you
above the fan shroud (your feet will come off the stool!...Just balance so
that they dangle in the air...The stool is there to have something to come
down on if when you're done) Squirm around until you can reach the bolts &
maintain balance
5. Now your hands should be free...I'm right handed so, my left hand was
just helping me balance...steadying me on lower intake, etc. I loosened
the driver side bolt with my right hand.

You have a choice with the passenger side...If you have a good stool, place
it by the passenger side fender & loosen with your left hand. If not, it
is possible to loosen the passenger side bolt by reaching around from the
driver side (in the position desribed first) with your right hand.

I cannot imagine you have to do anything with the distributor...It makes it
easier if you remove the wires & cap, but you shouldn't have to do anything
else. Also, you won't have to clean up the intake since if yours is a
Fuelie, the injectors only pump the fuel in the lower intake. The upper
intake should be fairly clean (mine was squeaky clean after 40,000 miles).
I would suggest a new gasket (they're cheap).

If you think that's hard...try doing Headers (those bolts are IMPOSSIBLE!)
OR replacing the upper intake manifold with a Whipple
supercharger....Removing the upper intake was one of the easiest things on
the instruction list

> From: David McDonald
> Subject: FlagBaggin intake bolts....
> Hiya all,
> I'm hopin someone out there can help me out... I have an oil leak on
> my '90 F250HD with a 351. I'm installing some mods (K&N, Gibson cat back
> and a n MSD 6a) and figured that I's tear into it to fix the leak. I
> found the leak on the passenger side valve cover, so I need to replace
> the gasket, which means the intake manifold needs to come off. I tried,
> and I'm no contortionist... How in this big blue world can you get those
> back two bolts off the intake manifold without a socket extention that
> resembles a slinky?
>
> About to pull the freakin engine for an oil leak,
> Dave McDonald
> dxmcdon uswest.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 09:09:42 -0600
From: "jccooper"
Subject: No start 302 EFI

I, being new here, might have erred in posting this so I will try again. I
have a no start situation on a 1985 F150 302 with EFI. I am getting fire to
the spark plugs but I do not know how to determine if I am getting fuel to
the cylinders. I am getting fuel after the hi pressure fuel pump. Any
assistance would be appreciated.


That's my story and I'm stickin to it!!!

JC down in Gnat Flats, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 09:09:19 -0800
From: David McDonald
Subject: Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts....

brian k rickman wrote:

> Hey David,
>
> Just went back and re-read your orginal post and you have a 1990 model!
> oops again, I think I'll change my font on my e-mail and see if that
> helps keep my eyes open! Maybe someone got some good info out of this
> anyway.
>
> Brian Rickman bmrickman juno.com
> 91 Explorer 4X4 EB AOD Please forgive
> the tag line
> 81 F100 2wd 351w AOD It's added at the
> server.

No sweat, it wasn't until I changed my fonts that I knew you had an 81...
I was kinda wondering if Ford really made the 351W in 1901 :)

Dave (not lookin forward to those bolts) McDonald
'90 F250HD 4x4 351 5sp
dxmcdon uswest.com
USWest pays for my COBOL abilities, any other subject is my own property.

(as if they'd really want my opinions on Ford anyway :)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 09:21:39 -0800
From: David McDonald
Subject: Re: FlagBaggin intake bolts....

Thanks for the advice all, I'm going to tear into it this weekend...
I'd do it tonight, but we're expecting snow ont Thursday, and the
truck is my snowplow :) I'll report back on how it went, in case
it's of interest to anyone... (I'll include descriptions of adding
a Gibson cat back, K&N and an MSD 6a also) Gonna be a fun
weekend :)

Dave McDonald
'90 F250HD 4X4 351 5 sp
Gibson cat back
soon to have K&N and MSD
and no oil leaks :)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 09:15:14 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Subject: RE: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #43

> Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 10:54:23 -0600
> From: John Cassis
> Subject: 3.0 4x4 Gas Milage

I would think that those larger tires killed your mileage as much or
more than the topper. Although all three probably contributed.

By raising the front of your truck, you changed the aerodynamics, more
square to the wind, hence more resistance. The topper added some weight
plus the suction at the rear of the truck depending on the design of the
back of the unit.

But the larger tires have changed the effective gear ratio of your truck
hence you have probably notice more sluggish acceleration, (I hope you
changed your speedo gear to compensate, it's only about $6.00 at Ford
and one bolt, took me all of about 1 minute to change mine). And also
at highway speeds...if you didn't change your speedo gear, than you are
actually driving faster than before at the same indicated speeds causing
an even worse effect on mileage including the above two items,. Even if
you changed your speedo gears, now your engine is operating in a
different rpm range at a given speed which might not be at your peak
torque rpm which is usually where you get the best mpg. But there are
other factors that affect that also.

Hope this helps, if not ignore it.

Walt

> Ron,
>
> I added the lift and larger tires this dropped to about 20-21 mph on
> the highway and 17-18 mph in town. Then I added a Raven truck top and
> this
> killed my mph. Now I get 15-16 in town and aabout 18 on the highway.
>
> John Cassis
> The Danger Ranger
> 93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed
>
> ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 10:44:34 -0800
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: Trailer Wiring and Transmission Cooler

On my 97 250HD it is under the dash in the center. But my truck is a
completely different animal. Also, Ford gave me a plug to fit the harness
as well. I just need to wire the brake controller to the plug and...
well... plug it in! If your truck is rated to tow that much weight, I
personally wouldn't bother with the time and expense. Most 98 F150's with a
3.55 rearend are rated to tow better than 6000lbs.

Jim Clementz wrote:

> I'm new to Ford having just bought a '98 F150 after driving the other
> guys the last 25 years.
> I am towing a 20' camper with mine and am setting things up. I have two
> questions that I am
> hoping somebody might know. First, I read someplace (perhaps in Trailer
> Life) that Ford
> puts wiring in place for electric brake hookups on trailers. If so,
> where might I find the wiring
> under the dash?
>
> Second, I plan on installing a transmission cooler. Does anybody know
> if Ford sells a kit
> to add a cooler? Although there are several kits out there at Pep Boys,
> etc.... I would rather
> use prefabricated steel lines instead of running rubber hoses through
> the radiator support. Is there any problem anyone sees with adding a
> large cooler (better too cool than too hot?) or should it be sized "just
> right" for the load I intend to haul (about 4500 lbs).
>
> Love the truck so far..... so does my local Shell Gas Station!
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 09:31:13 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Subject: RE: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #43

Dave, thanks for your thoughts, my additional comments are
below.....

Walt


> Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 16:44:16 -0800
> From: David McDonald
> Subject: Re: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk
>
> Posluszny, Walt (posl) wrote:
>
> > I would have thought that will all this Ford brainpower out there
> > someone else would have come across this same condition. Not a
> single
> > response. Now I'm really depressed......................
> >
> > >
> > > I get lot's of slap, bang, shudder in my drivetrain when letting
> out
> > > the clutch in 1st gear. I can make it slap by getting on or off
> the
> > > gas pedal. It has done this since new, now it's getting really
> > > annoying. The slip yoke has been replaced once, greased numerous
> > > times, I believe it's what destroyed the front universal joint at
> > > 47,000. I'm about at my wit's end. I'd really rather change the
> back
> > > of the NP-208 Transfer case to that of a knuckle style output
> shaft
> > > and have a new driveshaft built with the slip yoke in the middle
> of it
> > > like the front driveshaft.
> > >
>
> Heck, I woulda thought that the U joint caused the slap in the first
> place
> rather than the other way 'round. I had a U joint dump the needle
> bearings
> but stay together, and got some real nice clunks and thunks till I
> replaced
> it. If you crawl underneath and turn the driveshaft, where's the play?
> I
> would think that'd narrow it down...

In gear, I can't rotate the drive shaft, no play at all other than
slight movement in the mounts. In neutral I can rotate the shaft maybe
15-20 degrees(seems like a lot to me.

The dealers were convinced it's the slip yoke binding(i.e. not sliding
on the shaft freely). It was replaced once in about 85 or 86. Made it
better for a while but then slowly came back. Now it's worse than ever.
Truck only has 54K on it. When I replaced the u-joints at 47K I put H.D.
ones in and had the driveshaft balanced to 5000 shaft rpm. No
difference.

Has no one else experienced this?

3 dealers in two states have told me that this condition is
'normal' and that mine is worse than most but still normal. I had heard
recently that Ford acknowledged a problem and came out with a nickel
plated slip yoke to solve the problem. I guess the nickel is supposed
to be more slippery. Has anyone heard of this? I don't want to just
start replacing parts willy nilly. Been there done that, big bucks. I'd
like to solve the problem and fix it once and for all.

Thanks for your help.

Walt

> Speaking from limited knowledge,
> Dave McDonald
> dxmcdon uswest.com
> (uswest doesn't want my opinions, and I don't go by theirs, so
> the
> ones
> expressed above are all mine)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 09:41:47 -0800
From: "Posluszny, Walt (posl)"
Subject: RE: 85 4x4 driveline clunk

I think my e-mail server is about a day off from every one
else's.

Thanks for the tips on the motor mounts and the throw out
bearings. Interesting you all mentioned those,

I had replaced the tranny mount when I did the u-joints because
I could move the whole drivetrain around too easily (in my humble
opinion), that stiffened it up a bit but not a whole lot. I don't know
how to check the motor mounts. Any suggestions? How difficult are they
to replace on a 351W?

Re(throw out bearing suggestion): I'm started to get a little
throwout bearing noise, just noticed the last couple of weeks.

We may actually get somewhere here. Thanks for all the great
suggestions....any other opinions are happily accepted.

Thanks, Walt

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 12:33:37 EST
From: peakbzsrvc juno.com (Mike Mueller)
Subject: Re: 1985 4X4 driveline clunk

Hey-
I'm no expert, but I play one on TV.
I have an 89 F150 XLT SC Longbed. (and an A/T too!)
I don't remember exactly what it is called, but I had the midshaft
bearing go out on mine and it made a good clunking / clang sound when
shifting from P to R or D.
The ujoints in mine were fine but replaced all anyway.
As a matter of fact I replaced the whole unit, Drive Shaft and all!
Does this bearing exist on all trucks or just the Supercab Longbeds?
Hope this helps...

Mike Mueller - Account Manager
Peak Business Services
Equipment Leasing and Funding Programs
Office (510) 274-1720 Fax (510) 944-0782
What can we do for you today?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 11:35:40 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: '80 F-250

>From: Bob Johnson
>Subject: '80 F-250
Yo Bob:

I also own a 1980 F250. Mine is a reg cab 4x4 w/ 351M V8 and NP435
4-speed. The 1980 to 1983 trucks are the first of the new generation
"modern" down-sized body style, with the last of the older generation
(simple, easy to work on, and stone reliable) technology.

>(2) I've considered going with a floor shifter. Any thoughts,
> pro or con?

The floor shifter can connect the shift lever directly to your transmission
and you won't have to mess w/ any more linkage along the steering column
and down to the tranny. You could either get a transmission cover (it's a
separate, galvanized unpainted piece removable from the floor of the truck,
right on the hump) for a 4-speed with the proper hole already cut, or cut
your own hole in the piece you have now. Should be a pretty cheap item
from the junk yard, though.
>(3) I also have a granny 4-speed. Anyone got an opinion about
> mating it to the 300 I-6 in there? This will be a daily driver and will
> never have to work too hard.

The 4-speed is a super stout and "virtually" indestructible tranny. If
your 3-speed works for you, and you don't anticipate any serious
towing/hauling work, I wouldn't change it unless I needed another
time-consuming and grungy truck project. If you want to swap in the
4-speed, you'll also need the bell housing for the 4-speed (if it's not the
same as the bell housing for the 3-speed tranny) and a clutch for the
4-speed, which might also be different. You'd have to swap in that tranny
cover floor piece, since the 4-speed never had a column shift option.

>(5) In one of the early archives, I saw a reference to a (west coast,
>I think) company called 6=8. Made performance parts for the I-6's.
>I have not been able to find them. Anyone know who and where
> they are?

I think that "6=8" thing is a trademark for Clifford Performance, which
specializes in I6 performance upgrades. Many I6 aficionados swear by them.
>(6) Just out of curiosity: my '80 has the plain egg-crate grill, with
>F-O-R-D across the hood. I've seen other like it, but most (even
>some '80's, I think) have the blue oval molded into the center of
>the grill and nothing on the hood. Anyone know when Ford
>changed the styling?

The 80-81 F trucks and FSBs (full-size Broncos) used the styling you have.
In 1982, Ford updated the badging of the F trucks and FSBs. The letters
were deleted from the hood, the blue oval was added to the grille center,
the fender side badges changed styles w/ the big "F" beside the number, and
the mirror heads were changed (rounded off shape, smaller size, pass side
convex glass) on the low-mount swing-away mirrors. The mirrors on the
80-81 trucks were left over from the 77.5-79 series. The 80-81 trucks and
FSBs also use a clear front turn signal lens w/ an amber bulb. The 82-86
trucks use an amber lens.

>(7) Curiosity again: I think Ranger and Explorer were model/trim
> level designators (like "Custom," "Lariat," "XLT," etc.) before they
> were vehicles. What were they and when were they made?

Ranger and Explorer were factory option packages. I know the "Ranger" name
started appearing on trucks back in the late '60s. I have seen '68s with
that name; it may have been used even earlier. The Explorer name goes back
to at least the '70s. From what I've seen, they were "appearance"
packages, w/ things like fancy hubcaps, 2-tone paint schemes, etc., rather
than function packages (like AC, power steering, automatic tranny, etc.).
I think they were separate from the trim level packages, such as Custom,
XL, and XLT, but they may have been available only with certain trim levels
or other options. This seems to vary from year to year.

>I've also seen "Texas Ranger" badges (on trucks, not cops,
>mind you) and at least one other "Texas something" badge
>on F-series - were these genuine Ford models/trim levels,
>or local dealer inventions. Any other info available on them?
Living in Colorado, I have seen "Rocky Mountain" or "Mountain" editions
around here, as well as "(Denver) Bronco" Broncos and Bronco IIs. I
believe these are regional packages put together by regional dealer groups.
Sometimes they are merely aftermarket doo-dads (hokey emblems and stripes
or mudflaps). Sometimes, they are associated with a specific combination
of popular factory options and packages. This seems to vary by region, and
probably by year or even month.

BTW: The early '80s F trucks share most of their drivetrain with the
77.5-79 series trucks. The main difference in drivetrains was the TTB
system used in 4x4 trucks. Otherwise, engines and gearboxes were all the
same up to 1983, which was the last year of the M-block V8 (351M and 400)
and mechanical clutch linkage. If you have one of these 80-83 vintage
trucks, you might consider s*bscribing to the 61-79 list also, since that
list covers a lot of the same technical issues.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 12:38:41 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: Ranger Prices

Josh,
You described your Ranger previosly - 4x2, xlt, 4.0, with a 5-speed. What kind of price tag was on it????? Thanks in advance.

John Cassis
The Danger Ranger
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 12:55:48 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: 92' Bronco Engine Swaps

ACMERCG wrote:

> Its possible that i will be able to get ahold of a lightning
> motor....will it bolt in to my AOD equipped 4X4 F-150?

I think this question was for me, but I don't remember if I answered it.
Bottom line is, I have not done this, but don't see why it couldn't be done.
I would try to get as much hardware off the donor Lightning as possible,
including the tranny, which I believe is a beefed-up E4OD. I don't think the
stock AODE is up to handling the punch from the Lightning. Try to get
sensors and complete intake/exhaust system as well.

Potential problems I would look in to:

1. Swapping in E4OD--do electronic control signals for the shift solenoids
(1, 2, 3, 4, converter clutch, and pressure regulator) have the same
connector and pinout as AODE?
2. If you have a 5.0L, you know the engine strategy is different. You'll
have to change it.
3. If using your current EEC, you're going to have to recalibrate it. I've
never done this, so I have no idea how easy/difficult it is to do.
There are tools on the market that allow you to do this--"The
Calibrator" comes to mind, but I've never used it.
4. If using the EEC from the Lightning, there may be wiring harnesses
differences that could make your life miserable. I imagine that you'd
be making harness mods. What fun! Compare module pinouts for Lightning
against yours. Where do you get this information?

If anyone knows the answer to these questions, I would like to know, too. It
could be that the manuals have complete wiring diagrams for each vehicle. If
so, you could compare the harnesses for your truck against the Lightning. If
the same signals go to the same places for engine management, you might just
be able to get an EEC module for the Lightning and "Plug 'n' Play" with the
engine/trans swap. If they don't match, you're going to have to make either
software or harness mods.

Personally, I would elect software mods, but this would be a personal
decision based on how comfortable you are with software over hardware mods.

Comments?


- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 14:10:29 -0500
From: David Chapman
Subject: Which Exhaust?

This is my second try at posting this message. I don't think my first
one was posted due to a mail problem on my end. But if both get posted,
my apologies for the duplication.

I'm looking to upgrade the exhaust on my 95 Bronco 302. A
horsepower/torque increase would be nice along with a good sound (not
quiet mind you, but the sound of power). I've seen cat back and other's
mentioned in the discussions, but I'm not familiar with them. Any
suggestions (I'd rather not spend a fortune)? Should I go the header
route at the same time?

Thanks - Dave C.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 11:28:22 -0800
From: cfoye BayNetworks.COM (Chris Foye)
Subject: Re: 92' Bronco Engine Swaps

Hey Ford List people,

This is not exactly pertinent but, I think I can offer some suggestions
based on personal experience from swapping motors. About 10 years ago, I
took a 79 Mustang and swapped in an 85 SVO motor/drivetrain and rear end.
It took me about 3 months. I ran into more problems than I care to
remember. First thing I did was to get the wiring manuals from Ford
directly, they are quite detailed, I was able to interface the SVO
computer into the 79 wiring. It takes a bit of work to decipher the
diagrams but, it can be done. I ordered the service manuals along with the
wiring diagrams, It ran me about $100 at the time.
I suggest, you try and get the wiring harness off something similar or a
junk vehicle, junk yard personal are pretty good at interexchange hardware
references. The more hardware you have from the original vehicle the
easier it's going to be.

Chris









At 12:55 PM 2/3/98 -0600, David J. Baldwin wrote...
>
>
>ACMERCG wrote:
>
>> Its possible that i will be able to get ahold of a lightning
>> motor....will it bolt in to my AOD equipped 4X4 F-150?
>
>I think this question was for me, but I don't remember if I answered it.
>Bottom line is, I have not done this, but don't see why it couldn't be done.
>I would try to get as much hardware off the donor Lightning as possible,
>including the tranny, which I believe is a beefed-up E4OD. I don't think the
>stock AODE is up to handling the punch from the Lightning. Try to get
>sensors and complete intake/exhaust system as well.
>
>Potential problems I would look in to:
>
> 1. Swapping in E4OD--do electronic control signals for the shift solenoids
> (1, 2, 3, 4, converter clutch, and pressure regulator) have the same
> connector and pinout as AODE?
> 2. If you have a 5.0L, you know the engine strategy is different. You'll
> have to change it.
> 3. If using your current EEC, you're going to have to recalibrate it. I've
> never done this, so I have no idea how easy/difficult it is to do.
> There are tools on the market that allow you to do this--"The
> Calibrator" comes to mind, but I've never used it.
> 4. If using the EEC from the Lightning, there may be wiring harnesses
> differences that could make your life miserable. I imagine that you'd
> be making harness mods. What fun! Compare module pinouts for Lightning
> against yours. Where do you get this information?
>
>If anyone knows the answer to these questions, I would like to know, too. It
>could be that the manuals have complete wiring diagrams for each vehicle. If
>so, you could compare the harnesses for your truck against the Lightning. If
>the same signals go to the same places for engine management, you might just
>be able to get an EEC module for the Lightning and "Plug 'n' Play" with the
>engine/trans swap. If they don't match, you're going to have to make either
>software or harness mods.
>
>Personally, I would elect software mods, but this would be a personal
>decision based on how comfortable you are with software over hardware mods.
>
>Comments?
>
>
>--
>Best Regards,
>
>Dave Baldwin
>Dallas, TX
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 13:26:43 -0700 (MST)
From: Floyd J Hagen
Subject: Re: No start 302 EFI

Can you pull the injectors off and hold them over
some kind of receptacle?



On Tue, 3 Feb 1998, jccooper wrote:

> I, being new here, might have erred in posting this so I will try again. I
> have a no start situation on a 1985 F150 302 with EFI. I am getting fire to
> the spark plugs but I do not know how to determine if I am getting fuel to
> the cylinders. I am getting fuel after the hi pressure fuel pump. Any
> assistance would be appreciated.
>
>
> That's my story and I'm stickin to it!!!
>
> JC down in Gnat Flats, Texas
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 15:36:00 EST
From: JBien45204 aol.com
Subject: Re: 3.0 Gas Milage

Hello John, The Danger Ranger,
The product is Super 21 manufactured by H2OIL Corporation Hayward, CA.
Marketed by ecoCleen Forest Lake, MN. Super 21 is a concentrated fuel enhancer
formulated for engines of all types. This revolutionary product enhances and
regulates your engine's combustion resulting in more power and reduced fuel
consumption. With many users report a 21% or greater increase in fuel economy.
Is a super product for the environment. It cleans your engine's combustion
chamber, reducing toxic emissions. Tests indicate that Super 21 reduces
poisonous gases such as carbon monoxide by up to 95%.

Super 21 uses advanced miro-emulsion technology. This means that when added
to fuel, Super 21 breaks into submicroscopic water droplets. A protective
membrane surrounds each droplet creating millions of tiny "water balloons."
When the fuel ignites in the combustion chamber, these droplets explode as
they flash into steam. This process produces an increase in turbulence within
the air and fuel mixture, resulting in improved fuel efficency and better
engine performance. When these
micro-explosions occur against the surfaces of the combustion chamber, the
carbon deposits disintegrate and completely burn away. This reduces toxic
emissions.

The benefits of Super 21. * Increases engine power immediately *
Substantially increases fuel economy * Reduces toxic emissions * Is registered
with the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) * Decreases or eliminates
low octane engine knocks * Prolongs engine life * Patented Formula * 100%
Money Back GUARANTEED. Super 21 is like no other product on the market today!
It improves the performance of your engine - whether your engine is old or new
- - and it reduces toxic emissions for cleaner air. Where else can you find a
product this good for your car, that's so good for the air you breath?

I thank you for your time and consideration in this matter and I look
forward to your reply.
Sincerely,
Eco-Cleen
Jeffrey Bien
Regional Training Director
7406 Logging Trail Dr.
S.W. District
Humble, TX 77346
281-852-2650

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 15:38:11 EST
From: ACMERCG aol.com
Subject: Re: No start 302 EFI

There should be a schrader valve somewhere on the fuel rail. Hook up a fuel
pressure gauge to it to see if you have pressure to the injectors. The
pressure should be steady.

Joe

acmercg aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 15:51:56 -0500
From: "Chapman, David P"
Subject: RE: 3.0 Gas Milage

OK - so how do I get my hands on some of this stuff?

> ----------
> From: JBien45204 aol.com[SMTP:JBien45204 aol.com]
> Reply To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 1998 3:36 PM
> To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Subject: Re: 3.0 Gas Milage
>
> Hello John, The Danger Ranger,
> The product is Super 21 manufactured by H2OIL Corporation Hayward,
> CA.
> Marketed by ecoCleen Forest Lake, MN. Super 21 is a concentrated fuel
> enhancer
> formulated for engines of all types. This revolutionary product
> enhances and
> regulates your engine's combustion resulting in more power and reduced
> fuel
> consumption. With many users report a 21% or greater increase in fuel
> economy.
> Is a super product for the environment. It cleans your engine's
> combustion
> chamber, reducing toxic emissions. Tests indicate that Super 21
> reduces
> poisonous gases such as carbon monoxide by up to 95%.
>
> Super 21 uses advanced miro-emulsion technology. This means that
> when added
> to fuel, Super 21 breaks into submicroscopic water droplets. A
> protective
> membrane surrounds each droplet creating millions of tiny "water
> balloons."
> When the fuel ignites in the combustion chamber, these droplets
> explode as
> they flash into steam. This process produces an increase in turbulence
> within
> the air and fuel mixture, resulting in improved fuel efficency and
> better
> engine performance. When these
> micro-explosions occur against the surfaces of the combustion chamber,
> the
> carbon deposits disintegrate and completely burn away. This reduces
> toxic
> emissions.
>
> The benefits of Super 21. * Increases engine power immediately *
> Substantially increases fuel economy * Reduces toxic emissions * Is
> registered
> with the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) * Decreases or
> eliminates
> low octane engine knocks * Prolongs engine life * Patented Formula *
> 100%
> Money Back GUARANTEED. Super 21 is like no other product on the market
> today!
> It improves the performance of your engine - whether your engine is
> old or new
> - and it reduces toxic emissions for cleaner air. Where else can you
> find a
> product this good for your car, that's so good for the air you breath?
>
> I thank you for your time and consideration in this matter and I
> look
> forward to your reply.
> Sincerely,
> Eco-Cleen
> Jeffrey Bien
> Regional Training Director
> 7406 Logging Trail Dr.
> S.W. District
> Humble, TX 77346
> 281-852-2650
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer
> --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net,
> |
> | List removal instructions on the website.
> |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
> -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 16:19:55 -0800....


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