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Return-Path: Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 03:50:22 -0700 (MST) From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest To: fordtrucks80up-digest Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #15 Reply-To: fordtrucks80up Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest fordtrucks80up-digest Friday, January 9 1998 Volume 02 : Number 015 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks80up-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: Carburator Problems??? ["David J. Baldwin" ] Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #14 [Bill Funk ] Re: Ranger problems ["Lare/Eric" ] Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #14 [Jim Orson ] Re: Bug Deflectors [Randy ] Re: Carburator Problems? [Bill Funk ] Re: Parking Position (Transmissions) [ILuvTruks ] Re: Parking [hunter Re: Carburator Problems? [Randy ] test [johnmck ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 19:04:55 -0600 From: "David J. Baldwin" Subject: Re: Carburator Problems??? Mike(s): This is probably not a ruptured power valve diaphragm problem ( you are correct in your assessment that they are vulnerable to backfires), as you would most likely be laying down a smoke stream of black smoke from an EXTREMELY rich condition that results when the float bowl starts to drain out through the rupture. What I see is a small engine (300 six) with a four barrel on it. You didn't mention which model the Holley is, but you may be over-carbureted. If the carb is over 500 CFM, this is probably the problem. I have a friend with a 250 chevy 6 with what sounds like the same setup: dual exhaust headers, Offenhauser 4V intake. He has a 390 CFM Holley, and it is almost too big--flat spot on acceleration, but it never stalls or pops back. What can you do? First get some stuff: (1) Holley used to make a "trick kit" (I think that was it), which consisted of different springs for vacuum secondaries, accelerator pump nozzles, accelerator pump cams, a couple of different vent baffles (you don't need them), and maybe a few other things that I can't remember. Get one of these if you want to try to make this thing work. (2) Get some different power valves. Pick up an assortment so you can try different ones. Now you can try these things: The first thing I would try are the accelerator pump cams. They're the easiest to change. The originals put out most of their shot just as you open the throttle, with very little once you're on the throttle part way. So if you're cruising at, say, 60MPH, and the you stomp on it, the pump may not put out enough. Then you get the flat spot on acceleration. Some of the cams provide a more aggressive profile, delivering more fuel per stroke (opening of the throttle). If you get hesitation off the line, then you're likely not getting a big enough shot from the accelerator pump from closed throttle. If going to even the most aggressive pump cam doesn't help, try going to a larger accelerator pump nozzle. This will dump more fuel in a shorter period of time. The key to this balance is to get the accelerator pump to provide enough fuel for a long enough period of time to cover the sag in manifold vaccuum between the time you stomp on the accelerator and when the engine finally builds enough revs to get enough airflow through the venturii to draw the proper fuel through the main jets. When you're getting the accelerator pump calibrated, remember the following: Larger pump nozzle gives more fuel shot, but doesn't cover as long. Smaller pump nozzle gives less fuel shot, but the shot lasts longer. There's a happy balance in there somewhere. It just might take some fiddling. Change one thing at a time. For example, swap cams until you get the best response, then try nozzles until you find the right one. Once you optimize the nozzle, you might have to go back and fiddle with cams again to get it right, but you will converge on a solution. .....UNLESS: you are hopelessly overcarbureted. In that case, the most aggressive cam and biggest nozzle don't help enough. Holley used to make a MONGO accelerator pump kit, but I wouldn't recommend it. If things are that bad, get a smaller carb. When you get your accel. pump tweaked in, if you have a small flat spot during high-speed acceleration, you can put in a power valve that opens at a higher manifold vacuum. Move up progressivly until the flat spot goes away. You might experiment with jets as well, if you just can't quite get it right with the valve alone. In that case, try increasing jet size. When you get to power valves and jets, you're in for more mess, since you have to take the float bowl off every time. If you have the dual-feed bowls, it's even worse (but you probably don't). Keep us posted. I want to know how you come out on this. - -- Best Regards, Dave Baldwin Dallas, TX - -------------------------------------------------------------- Mike Marcum wrote: > > Mike, > > Has your engine experience a backfire through the carb in the last 1.5 > years? > > If so, then it is possible that your power valve is shot. > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Mike Johnson [SMTP:MikeJ > > Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 2:10 PM > > To: 'fordtrucks80up > > Subject: Carburator Problems??? > > > > I read the problem that Mitch Biarsky > > had with his '86 F250 w/351 > > on the fordtrucks80up-digest Friday, December 26 1997 > > > > Did he or anyone else figure out what could be causing the problem? > > > > I have an 86 f150 with the 300 cid engine, with a holley 4 barrel, > > header, duel exhaust. > > it does the same hesitation thing, there is a dead spot (almost like > > the > > engine would stop) when starting from a stop light (engine cold or > > warm). It also happens when cruising, and you take your foot off the > > accelerator and then try to regain speed. I have to feather the > > gas, to keep the truck running. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:14:59 -0700 From: Bill Funk Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #14 > From: Mike Marcum > Subject: RE: Carburator Problems??? > > Mike, > > I am, by no means, an expert on Holley carbs. However, I have one, > and > have been researching solutions to problems similiar to those you have > > mentioned. > > Has your engine experience a backfire through the carb in the last 1.5 > > years? > > If so, then it is possible that your power valve is shot. Holley's > are > infamous for having their power valves die due to a backfire. I have > a > 351 HO 4V in a 1986 F250, and it's Holley has similar problems. I > bought a rebuild kit ($20) and a power valve saver($10), which is a > little check-valve that screws into the bottom of the carb (some > models > require some drilling) and plugging of another hole. At any rate, it > is > supposed to protect your power valve from damage caused by a backfire. > > Summit Racing advertises one in their mail order catalog. I got mine > at > a local auto parts house. > > As I understand it, the powervalve squirts a stream of fuel when you > punch the accellerator, which feeds the engine's needs, until enough > vacuum is developed to open up the (vacuum)secondaries. > > I hope this gives you an idea to check out. > > - - Mike > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Mike Johnson [SMTP:MikeJ > > Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 2:10 PM > > To: 'fordtrucks80up > > Subject: Carburator Problems??? > > > > I read the problem that Mitch Biarsky > > had with his '86 F250 w/351 > > on the fordtrucks80up-digest Friday, December 26 1997 > > > > Did he or anyone else figure out what could be causing the problem? > > > > I have an 86 f150 with the 300 cid engine, with a holley 4 barrel, > > header, duel exhaust. > > it does the same hesitation thing, there is a dead spot (almost like > > > the > > engine would stop) when starting from a stop light (engine cold or > > warm). It also happens when cruising, and you take your foot off the > > > accelerator and then try to regain speed. I have to feather the > > gas, to keep the truck running. > > It does it the worst during wet damp weather. > > > > my carb is only 1 1/2 old and i just replaced the plugs, cap, rotor > > and > > fuel filter. > > All my vaccum hoses are good and i don't have any leaks anywhere. > > I didn't try new wires because mine are only 1 1/2 old. > > > > any help would be greatly appreciated. > > > > Mike Johnson I think the powrvalve is designed to allow extra fuel into the venturis when the vacuum is low, but flow is high... when the engine needs more fuel than the venturi system can provide. The system Mike Marcum is speaking of, to shoot extra gas in the carb when the throttle is openeing, is the accellerator pump, and it certainly sounds as if this is is the problem here. To find out, one can remove the air filter, climb up to be able to see into the carb from the top, and open the throttle; a shot of gas should enter the venturi. The gas should start as soon as the throttle opens. There's usually a lever on the side of the carb pressing on a little nipple on the pump body; there should be little to no free space between this actuating lever and the nipple. Bill Funk ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 20:28:11 -0500 From: "Lare/Eric" Subject: Re: Ranger problems - -----Original Message----- From: FastRngXLT To: fordtrucks80up Date: Tuesday, January 06, 1998 4:10 AM Subject: Re: Ranger problems >In a message dated 98-01-05 23:12:29 EST, you write: > > >brakes > cool down. I can go to stop and just apply a little pressure and they grab > like I mashed the pedal to the floor. >> > > They must have upgraded th brakes since 94, You guys with the 94's are the >only ones I have heard talk about brake or squeaking problems. My 96' 3.0 >brakes squeal a little after its been washed and direct presure had been >sprayed on them or after a real good rain. As far as squeaks, I havent heard >any... yet. My '94 Splash x-cab had the same grabbing squealing/problem in the wet after about 12,000 miles were put on the truck. At 45,000 miles I put aftermarket front pads, rear drums, rear pads, and rear hardware-64,000 miles, not a single problem of grabbing/squealing yet. Eric Smith - '94 Splash x-cab, 4x4 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 20:44:21 -0600 From: Jim Orson Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #14 I installed a BugFlector II (from K-Mart) on my 97 Ranger. It works as advertised and looks great. Not a single bug that hit it has survived to my knowledge. It is the wrap around variety and was made specifically for the Ranger. I would not trust the double sided tape to hold it on. I installed mine using three or four small screws that came with it. There was no problem installing it by myself. I believe it cost about $30. Jim Orson... > ------------------------------ > > Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 14:18:35 EST > From: johnmck > Subject: Bug Deflectors > > I would like to hear from owners who have installed bug deflectors. > First, do they work as advertised? Secondly, which ones work the best? > Lastly, do the ones which are attached with sticky tape really stay on? > > Thank-you, > John > > ------------------------------ > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 23:07:45 -0800 From: Randy Subject: Re: Bug Deflectors John R. McKee wrote: > > I would like to hear from owners who have installed bug deflectors. > First, do they work as advertised? Secondly, which ones work the best? > Lastly, do the ones which are attached with sticky tape really stay on? > > Thank-you, > John John, I find it kinda hard to believe that they redirect everything that comes over the hood. I have one on my '87 F-250. I put it on more for aesthetics (sp?) I guess. I got the dark tinted, wrap around one that conforms to the hood. It sits about an inch away on the average, but never has it touched the hood even at excessive freeway speeds (or so my friends told me, yeah, that's it). I too have noticed the problem w/the windshield washer fluid, although, admittedly, I didn't know the source, I bought my deflector two days after buying the truck, so I didn't have anything to compare it to. I would go with the bolt-on kind for sure! I don't trust tape for anything more than wrapping wires. There easy to install, the shield wraps up under the front of the hood, so the screws go up under there. If you're worried about corrosion/rust after drilling into the hood, just get some silicone and place it over the hole before you put the screw in. This will keep it well protected from the elements. I got my tube from a friend who works for the phone co. and use it for the crimp-on wire connectors too. Just put a layer on the connector across the opening and push in the wire. Kind of the same as the dielectric grease you have to put on your plug wire boots. Randy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:15:34 -0700 From: Bill Funk Subject: Re: Carburator Problems? > From: Mike Marcum > Subject: RE: Carburator Problems??? > > Mike, > > I am, by no means, an expert on Holley carbs. However, I have one, > and > have been researching solutions to problems similiar to those you have > > mentioned. > > Has your engine experience a backfire through the carb in the last 1.5 > > years? > > If so, then it is possible that your power valve is shot. Holley's > are > infamous for having their power valves die due to a backfire. I have > a > 351 HO 4V in a 1986 F250, and it's Holley has similar problems. I > bought a rebuild kit ($20) and a power valve saver($10), which is a > little check-valve that screws into the bottom of the carb (some > models > require some drilling) and plugging of another hole. At any rate, it > is > supposed to protect your power valve from damage caused by a backfire. > > Summit Racing advertises one in their mail order catalog. I got mine > at > a local auto parts house. > > As I understand it, the powervalve squirts a stream of fuel when you > punch the accellerator, which feeds the engine's needs, until enough > vacuum is developed to open up the (vacuum)secondaries. > > I hope this gives you an idea to check out. > > - - Mike > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Mike Johnson [SMTP:MikeJ > > Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 2:10 PM > > To: 'fordtrucks80up > > Subject: Carburator Problems??? > > > > I read the problem that Mitch Biarsky > > had with his '86 F250 w/351 > > on the fordtrucks80up-digest Friday, December 26 1997 > > > > Did he or anyone else figure out what could be causing the problem? > > > > I have an 86 f150 with the 300 cid engine, with a holley 4 barrel, > > header, duel exhaust. > > it does the same hesitation thing, there is a dead spot (almost like > > > the > > engine would stop) when starting from a stop light (engine cold or > > warm). It also happens when cruising, and you take your foot off the > > > accelerator and then try to regain speed. I have to feather the > > gas, to keep the truck running. > > It does it the worst during wet damp weather. > > > > my carb is only 1 1/2 old and i just replaced the plugs, cap, rotor > > and > > fuel filter. > > All my vaccum hoses are good and i don't have any leaks anywhere. > > I didn't try new wires because mine are only 1 1/2 old. > > > > any help would be greatly appreciated. > > > > Mike Johnson I think the powrvalve is designed to allow extra fuel into the venturis when the vacuum is low, but flow is high... when the engine needs more fuel than the venturi system can provide. The system Mike Marcum is speaking of, to shoot extra gas in the carb when the throttle is openeing, is the accellerator pump, and it certainly sounds as if this is is the problem here. To find out, one can remove the air filter, climb up to be able to see into the carb from the top, and open the throttle; a shot of gas should enter the venturi. The gas should start as soon as the throttle opens. There's usually a lever on the side of the carb pressing on a little nipple on the pump body; there should be little to no free space between this actuating lever and the nipple. Bill Funk ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 22:10:59 EST From: ILuvTruks Subject: Re: Parking Position (Transmissions) Actually, If you keep a few bricks or a cinder block in the car you could theoretically set the brakes while you're not there hehehehe :-) In a message dated 98-01-08 16:36:38 EST, you write: > Since you can't "set" your service brakes > without being within reaching distance of the brake pedal, the only way > to comply with this law is to apply the parking brake. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 22:13:28 -0500 From: hunter Subject: Re: Parking O.K. So if you're going to park on an incline and have a standard tranny, put it in gear AND set the parking brake. For an automatic, put it in park AND set the parking brake. PLUS if you're parked on an uphill incline turn your front wheels away from the curb, on a downhill incline turn the front wheels into the curb. That way if your tranny and parking break can't do the job the vehicle only rolls until your tire hits the curb. I am not responsible for any damages caused by using the above suggestions. In Florida I don't normally have to worry about parking on inclines but I still use my PARKING break when I park my truck. (That is unless I'm using a Geo Metro as a wheel chock) Just as I use my turning signal when turning and changing lanes, as I'm sure everyone else on this list does. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 23:19:57 -0800 From: Randy Subject: Re: Carburator Problems? Bill Funk wrote: > > The system Mike Marcum is speaking of, to shoot extra gas in the carb > when the throttle is openeing, is the accellerator pump, and it > certainly sounds as if this is is the problem here. To find out, one can > remove the air filter, climb up to be able to see into the carb from the > top, and open the throttle; a shot of gas should enter the venturi. The > gas should start as soon as the throttle opens. .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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