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Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 18:52:42 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #117
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Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, March 31 1998 Volume 02 : Number 117



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

R134 vs R12 [John Cassis ]
R12 vs R134 [John Cassis ]
Intake question [Gary Spradley ]
Super Duty 6-Speed [Sheldon Belinkoff ]
Roller lifters ["JGA" ]
Re: R12>R134 Conversion [Chris Hedemark ]
R12 vs R134 [John Cassis ]
RE: F-150 Brakes ["Mike Mueller" ]
RE: F-150 Brakes ["Mike Mueller" ]
Re: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors, info ["Dave Resch"
Re: F-150 Brakes [ACMERCG ]
Re: F-150 Brakes [ACMERCG ]
Re: F-150 Brakes [ACMERCG ]
RE: R12 vs R134 ["Chad Royse" ]
Re: Super Duty 6-Speed ["Luke Walling" ]
7.3D exhaust system question ["Patrick Vanderlind" ]
RE: R12 vs R134 [John Cassis ]
Exhaust gas temp vs fuel economy ["Mike Miller" ]
Re: F-150 Brakes [bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)]
Alarm System Suggestions [Sheldon Belinkoff ]
Re: Alarm System Suggestions [ALBERT DANIELS ]
Re: V-8 Ranger Swap? [Natedog199 ]
Re: V-8 Ranger Swap? [Run351 ]
Re: Alarm System Suggestions [Jim Lujan ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 06:20:58 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: R134 vs R12

I base my opinion on this. I live down here in Houston, Texas. It gets =
real hot here (we are already getting into the lower 80's now). When =
summer hits I'll go through months of upper 90's or better. R134 does =
not get as cold as R12. When its 100 degrees outside it makes a big =
difrence. Put a thermometer in your AC vent on a good working R134 =
system and then do the same on a good working R12 system and see which =
one reads colder. Like I said I live where it is summer for 8 to 9 =
months out of the year maybe it does'nt make as much of a difrence if =
you dont live in an area whith as hot and humid weather as we get down =
here. Now as I said before I'm not trying to start a flame war just =
answering your question on how I based my opinion and mainly it lies on =
the fact that R12 systems get colder than R134. Its a little more =
expensive to have it re-charged but well worth it in my opinion.

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 06:27:38 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: R12 vs R134

Oh I almost forgot, Walmart charged my AC with R12 for $65. That was =
from completely dry when I had to rebuild my system. So for those of you =
out their with R12 that need a re-charge check them out. They were half =
the price of some local shops. I called around Houston and priced it out =
before I ended up taking it to them.

John Cassis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 07:46:18 -0600
From: Gary Spradley
Subject: Intake question

Anyone know if the intake manifold is still being produced or available for
the 351 Windsor using Cleveland heads?

Thanks
Gary Spradley 84 F150 4X4 359 Windsor (yes 359)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 06:05:58 -0800
From: Sheldon Belinkoff
Subject: Super Duty 6-Speed

Does the new 6-speed xmission used in the Super Duty trucks with the
Diesel engine have a PTO?
- --
SCB
belinkoff earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 10:03:01 -0500
From: "JGA"
Subject: Roller lifters

Just cought a couple of posts regarding roller lifters and increased fuel
mileage. I'm having a valve job done on my 90 5.0L. and was just
wondering...does this engine have rollers and if not would it be to any
advantage to replace the standard ones with rollers?

JGA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 10:54:54 -0500
From: Chris Hedemark
Subject: Re: R12>R134 Conversion

Hawk sktc.net wrote:
> The R134A systems in my 94 Ranger and my 95 F150 work as well or better
> than any a/c's that I have ever owned. Why do you think that they don't
> work as well? Not flaming, just asking.

I disagree about the effectiveness of R134A but agree on the
practicality points that you raise.

With an R12 system, it's possible to get the interior of your truck
downright frosty. If condensation forms on the glass outside while the
A/C is cranking, that is a good sign of performance. Same goes for a
touch of frost on the vents. I've never seen this with R134A but have
seen it with R12.

It seems R134A just doesn't get all that cold. I was driving to work
this morning with the windows up, the A/C on full blast, and even though
it wasn't all that warm out, I couldn't get the interior of my car very
cold even after driving for over 30 minutes to get to work. This was in
a 1996 Mustang. My 1972 Mustang would have had me shutting off the A/C
after a few minutes or rolling the windows down for releif from the
cold. I've owned two vehicles with R134A and many more with R12. There
is definitely a difference, favoring R12 as the better performer of the
two.

- --

Chris Hedemark - chris yonderway.com - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.yonderway.com
"From the fury of the Norsemen, oh Lord, deliver us!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 10:06:02 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: R12 vs R134

Thanks for the support Chris. I think, its been a year since I did this =
test, but there is about a 20 degree temperature difrence in a system =
with R12 compared to R134. My truck will blow air out of the vents =
registering about 40 to 42 degrees. My friends truck with R134 only =
reads about 60. Like I said if you dont live in a place where its real =
hot I gues it would be no big deal. But where I'm at when its 100 =
degrees it makes a big difrence. Once my truck has had the AC on for a =
couple of minutes you cant keep the AC on anything but low, and when you =
step out of the truck your Sunglasses will frost over. You just dont get =
that from R134.

John Cassis
93 STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 98 08:19:13 PST
From: "Mike Mueller"
Subject: RE: F-150 Brakes

This is a copy of a post of mine from a while back. I've always had this=
problem.

Hey all!
I have an '89 F150 SC 4x4, 5.8, Rear antilock, etc.
I don't believe I have the same caliper system as a F250 but,
I have always had problems with the front pads wearing out fast!
The truck came with calipers with ceramic pistons.
The first time I replaced the pads I noticed these were chipped around =
the outside but figured it was ok.
The pads lasted maybe 6 months of regular driving.
Thinking the calipers were sticking, I pulled it all apart again.
This time I did a little research and found out that some rebuilt caliper=
s come with steel pistons instead.
I replaced the rotors, the calipers and the pads.
Flushed all the fluid and started again.
6 months later, same thing, pads were down to metal.
Bought new pads, rotors were fine, checked operation of calipers - OK.
6 months later, pads were gone again!
Talked to rep from Ford, (Factory) who said the dealers are aware of the =
prob,
there is no "fix", and they have been putting in a harder compound pad =
so that they last longer.
I countered that I don't want my rotors going away any faster.
I found a semi-metallic pad (don't have the name right here now) that off=
ered lifetime warranty.
My rotors are close to needing to be replaced, and it's almost time to =
replace the pads.
This will be the 3rd. set of these "Lifetime" pads.
The pad job takes me ~1/2 hour and I do it the same time I do regular ser=
vice anyway.
I know for some people it's a pain, but this is how I cope.


Thanks!

Mike Mueller
The Leasing Dept.
Equipment Leasing and Funding
www.leasingdept.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 98 08:58:12 PST
From: "Mike Mueller"
Subject: RE: F-150 Brakes

Hey all!
After posting my last item on the dreaded F-150 Brakes I read the rest =
of my digest list and other peoples posts.
Just so you know, I did have the master cylinder checked - no residual =
pressure, had the proportioning valve replaced as well, still the same =
problem.
I did use the good pads, but got real tired of going thru rotors.
It seems the pads are going to drag a little no matter what you do, given=
the choice of pads or rotors or both...
By using the softer pads (lifetime warranty, cheappies) I preserve the =
rotors longer. It's a whole lot easier to pop in new pads if thats all =
you need. Occasionally I do have to either turn the rotors or buy new =
ones, at which time I replace the bearings etc. By running harder (metal=
lic pads) I pretty much have to replace the rotors each time as well. =
The pads may last longer but only at the expense of the rotors.
Ford put out a TSB on this and their "fix" was to put in the harder pads.=
The result was the customer came back in less often but when he did the=
y were sure to have to replace everything!

Thanks!

Mike Mueller
The Leasing Dept.
Equipment Leasing and Funding
www.leasingdept.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 10:50:56 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors, info

>From: Randy
>Subject: Re: Late model 351W or 5.8 HO motors, info
>
>First, I do believe the FI later model 5.8's did have roller
>cams and in fact you can by a retrofit roller cam/lifter set
>for the 5.8 motor. I called Jegs on info for my '87 351 H.O.
>and I think it was Crane Cams and the cam and lifters were
>just over 400 bucks. All the mfgs. that now use roller cams
>do so because of gas mileage increases. I have an article
>on that retrofit cam if you want more info and I also may

Yo Randy:

I may be wrong, but I don't think Ford ever provided roller cams in the
351W/5.8 engine from the factory. The only exception I know of is the 5.8
SVO engine in the limited production 1995 Cobra R Mustangs. I'm not sure
about the Lightning F150s, but I don't think they use a roller cam in their
5.8 HOs. I think the Lightning engine was just a regular 5.8 short block
w/ GT40 heads and intake tract.

All the roller cams I have seen for the 351W/5.8 are "retrofit" kits,
because that engine never came w/ roller cams from the factory. The
retrofit kits include a special design roller lifter w/ link bars that will
fit into the standard, non-roller blocks.

When the roller cams were introduced in the 5.0 HO in 1985 Mustangs, Ford
had to redesign the block to accommodate the link bars required by the
roller tappet lifters. Roller cam 5.0 blocks actually have a different
casting number than non-roller cam blocks. From the factory, roller cam
5.0s were only available in Mustangs and for the first 2 years of the 5.0
V8 option in Explorer SUVs. The only reason they were available in the
Explorer was because Ford discontinued production of the non-roller 5.0
blocks when the new 1997 F150 started using the Triton modular V8 engines.

The roller cam doesn't offer a lot of friction reduction improvement over
flat tappet cams, but it does allow much more radical lobe designs (very
steep lift profiles) that would wear out very quickly or "float" the valves
in a flat tappet design. The reason Ford gave as to why they adopted
roller cams for the 5.0 HO was to provide adequate (relatively high)
performance while meeting ever-tightening emissions standards. With its
relatively small production numbers, I don't believe that gas mileage was
ever a major concern for the 5.0 HO engine.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 13:57:40 EST
From: ACMERCG
Subject: Re: F-150 Brakes

In a message dated 98-03-30 23:19:39 EST, you write:


that
do heavy duty service. check with your parts store.
>>
I have been using Raybestos for about a year now but I now put on Performance
Friction? pads. We'll see how these hold up.

Joe D.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 14:00:26 EST
From: ACMERCG
Subject: Re: F-150 Brakes

In a message dated 98-03-31 00:06:11 EST, you write:


inner and outer bearings need replacing >>
I just replaced this stuff 6 months ago.....

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 14:23:42 EST
From: ACMERCG
Subject: Re: F-150 Brakes

In a message dated 98-03-31 12:18:31 EST, you write:

>
I guess thats what I 'll continue to do. Pads are much cheaper and easier to
replace than rotors. I did have the master checked and the Midas guy (High
School Buddy) said it was fine. He told me that they do brakes on the 150's
all the time. Do the 250's have heavier duty pads/calipers/rotors? Will they
swap to the 150 IFS?
Joe Downey
1992 F-150 4X4 XLT NITE
87 JX Softop
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.aol.com/ACMERCG/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 15:35:12 -0500
From: "Chad Royse"
Subject: RE: R12 vs R134

Both in my 94 Ranger and my 97 F250, I have to leave the a/c on low once the
cab is cooled, even on the hottest days (mid to high 90's in S Ohio). But,
both of those came stock with R134. I could see a retro being less
efficient.

Chad

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-fordtrucks80up ListService.net
[mailto:owner-fordtrucks80up ListService.net]On Behalf Of John Cassis
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 11:06 AM
To: 'Ford Trucks 80 & Up'
Subject: R12 vs R134


Thanks for the support Chris. I think, its been a year since I did this
test, but there is about a 20 degree temperature difrence in a system with
R12 compared to R134. My truck will blow air out of the vents registering
about 40 to 42 degrees. My friends truck with R134 only reads about 60. Like
I said if you dont live in a place where its real hot I gues it would be no
big deal. But where I'm at when its 100 degrees it makes a big difrence.
Once my truck has had the AC on for a couple of minutes you cant keep the AC
on anything but low, and when you step out of the truck your Sunglasses will
frost over. You just dont get that from R134.

John Cassis
93 STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed



+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| List removal instructions on the website. |
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 16:04:01 -0500
From: "Luke Walling"
Subject: Re: Super Duty 6-Speed

- -----Original Message-----
From: Sheldon Belinkoff
To: FordTrucks
Date: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 9:08 AM
Subject: Super Duty 6-Speed


>Does the new 6-speed xmission used in the Super Duty trucks with the
>Diesel engine have a PTO?
>--
>SCB
>belinkoff earthlink.net


"Transmission power take-off provision (available with 6.8L and 7.3L engines
with automatic transmission. Standard with manual transmission)"
from the specs page on the Ford website, during my visit..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 14:58:07 -0600
From: "Patrick Vanderlind"
Subject: 7.3D exhaust system question

Diesel Gurus,
I have a '93 XLT xcab 4x4 with the 7.3 NA diesel. I want to
increase the power without turbocharging. The cost is to much to put
into a 5 year old truck. I will be getting a Power Stroke in the next
couple of years anyway so I would not get the $$ out of it.

I need an exhaust system replacement so I thought of adding an
aftermarket system instead of the stock. I am looking at a Banks
Power Pack that adds 3" exhaust, Banks Dynaflow muffler, and a
K&N filter system. This setup is supposed to add 40 HP and 45
ft/torque measured at the back wheels. The cost is $695. It seems a
bit steep but if I can get the power boost it claims, I will pay the
difference over the stock $$. Has anyone out there tryied this
system? What do you think? Is there any other ways to get the power
out without turbocharging? Please help. Thanks.


Patrick Vanderlind
93 F250 xcab XLT Red/ Red 4x4 7.3d 5 speed 4:10

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 15:08:37 -0600
From: John Cassis
Subject: RE: R12 vs R134

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD5CB6.E2294280
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Chad,
I'm sure it gets plenty hot where you are but mid 90's in Ohio is alot =
difrent than when it hits 90's here in Houston. Mid 90's can be a relief =
here. For three months it will be upper 90's to low 100's with 90% or =
better humidity. Trust me its not the same. Add this with zero wind and =
you might start to understand the level of heat I'm speaking of. Now I'm =
not trying to say it does not get very hot where you are but trust me =
when I say it is not the same. My point is the R12 will make cooler air =
than the R134A. And when it is as hot as it is here every little edge =
you have to get cool is a plus. I'd rather pay more to re-charge my =
system with R12 than convert to R134A becuase it is just not as cold as =
R12. Now I was not trying to start a flame war here, just stating the =
facts. But if you dont believe me about the heat here ask someone from =
up north who has visited the southern portions of Texas in June, July, =
or August and I think they will confirm what I'm telling you about our =
weather here. Anyway if not that just get your thermometer and check the =
temperature difrence in a R12 system vs. a R134A system.Sorry so long =
winded, I just had to explain my stance on the subject.....maybe I =
overexplained it sorry if it was more than you wanted to here.

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed
- ----------
From: Chad Royse
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 2:35 PM
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Subject: RE: R12 vs R134

Both in my 94 Ranger and my 97 F250, I have to leave the a/c on low once =
the
cab is cooled, even on the hottest days (mid to high 90's in S Ohio). =
But,
both of those came stock with R134. I could see a retro being less
efficient.

Chad

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-fordtrucks80up ListService.net
[mailto:owner-fordtrucks80up ListService.net]On Behalf Of John Cassis
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 11:06 AM
To: 'Ford Trucks 80 & Up'
Subject: R12 vs R134


Thanks for the support Chris. I think, its been a year since I did this
test, but there is about a 20 degree temperature difrence in a system =
with
R12 compared to R134. My truck will blow air out of the vents =
registering
about 40 to 42 degrees. My friends truck with R134 only reads about 60. =
Like
I said if you dont live in a place where its real hot I gues it would be =
no
big deal. But where I'm at when its 100 degrees it makes a big difrence.
Once my truck has had the AC on for a couple of minutes you cant keep =
the AC
on anything but low, and when you step out of the truck your Sunglasses =
will
frost over. You just dont get that from R134.

John Cassis
93 STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed



+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| List removal instructions on the website. |
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+


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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BD5CB6.E2294280--

+--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| List removal instructions on the website. |
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 13:28:57 -0800
From: "Mike Miller"
Subject: Exhaust gas temp vs fuel economy

I recently bought an 85 F250 4x4, x-cab, 4sp, 6.9l diesel with a Banks
turbo. I took my first road trip yesterday with it. Been getting about 16
mpg in daily driving. Has a 3.54 rear axle. Drove from Seattle to Portland.
Going down, I was watching the exhaust gas temp while on level ground:

speed egtemp
55 275
60 325
65 400
70 425

>From Seattle to Portland, I was cruising (using cruise control) at about 68
mph indicated (2500 rpm) with the egt just over 400 - got 16.0 mpg.
I dropped down coming home to 62mph indicated (60 mph actual according to
the speedo checks) (2300 rpm) with egt at about 325 and jumped to 18.1 mpg.
So egt was ~18% less and economy increased by ~13%. I guess heat going out
the exhaust is just wasted energy. Seems the biggest jump in egt was between
60 and 65.
I really want to get a boost gauge - anyone have any recommendations? How
much boost is the banks putting out? Any ideas as to what the HP and Torque
gains are over stock? Any easy ways to get more out of the turbo? Bigger
exhaust?
I weighed it on two different scales over the weekend. One at a truck scale
and one at the local dump. Both were pretty close to the same reading. With
a Brahma canopy, about 30 gals of fuel, 500 lbs of people, the reading was
6880 lbs. I was rather suprised it was that heavy. My 74 F350 w 390, no
canopy, not 4x4, not extended cab with same fuel and people weighed in over
1000 lbs less.

mike miller
mailto:JoMi msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 16:00:16 -0600
From: bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)
Subject: Re: F-150 Brakes

You might want to make sure that the rear brakes are working properly.
I've seen rear brakes worn or broken and then all the braking is done by
the front, which wears out faster. I've also seen the brake adjuster put
on backwards in the rear.


Brian Rickman bmrickman juno.com
91 Explorer 4X4 EB AOD
81 F100 2wd 351w AOD

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Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 14:35:36 -0800
From: Sheldon Belinkoff
Subject: Alarm System Suggestions

Tomorrow I'm supposed to pick up my "new" truck to replace one which was
recently stolen. I never thought I needed an alarm system or some sort
of
protection. While I know this topic has come up before, I've not paid
much
attention to it, so I'd like some "expert" opinions.

I'm planning on a fuel shut off switch and a battery/starter
disconnect.
However, these things won't prevent a break in or stop the truck from
being
towed away. I'd like an alarm system that can be installed in such a
way
that it's virtually inaccessible - so it can't be bypassed. I'd also
like
something that would page me as well as making an incredible racket when
the
truck was disturbed, perhaps something with motion sensors, and where I
can
se the degree of sensitivity.

Any sugestions? What's worked for you? Any better ideas than mine?


- --
SCB
belinkoff earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 15:50:15 -0800 (PST)
From: ALBERT DANIELS
Subject: Re: Alarm System Suggestions

I have a ALPINE 8049 it has a radar sensor to detect motion, but not if a
cat jumps on your truck. You can set the sensitivity from the remote. It
has door lock/unlock and is wonderful. Whatever you do, do not buy a DEI
Alarm they are crap. My alarm also has starter kill, and you can wire up
the fuel pump is need be. It is great and would recommend it to anyone.
The key to alarms is the installation. Also ask for a backup battery and
siren. Hope this helps.

Albert Daniels
danielsa nevada.edu

On Mon, 30 Mar 1998, Sheldon Belinkoff wrote:

> Tomorrow I'm supposed to pick up my "new" truck to replace one which was
> recently stolen. I never thought I needed an alarm system or some sort
> of
> protection. While I know this topic has come up before, I've not paid
> much
> attention to it, so I'd like some "expert" opinions.
>
> I'm planning on a fuel shut off switch and a battery/starter
> disconnect.
> However, these things won't prevent a break in or stop the truck from
> being
> towed away. I'd like an alarm system that can be installed in such a
> way
> that it's virtually inaccessible - so it can't be bypassed. I'd also
> like
> something that would page me as well as making an incredible racket when
> the
> truck was disturbed, perhaps something with motion sensors, and where I
> can
> se the degree of sensitivity.
>
> Any sugestions? What's worked for you? Any better ideas than mine?
>
>
> --
> SCB
> belinkoff earthlink.net
>
> +--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 19:41:48 EST
From: Natedog199
Subject: Re: V-8 Ranger Swap?

You need to contact L&L products. I got my kit from them. It was pretty easy.
I'll get their number later.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 20:08:46 EST
From: Run351
Subject: Re: V-8 Ranger Swap?

Dad,
I had a 88" Ranger with Carb/5.0L and a C4 with 3.73 gears....which
I eventually switched to 3.45 gears..Be careful with what gears you chose..The
RPM may be higher than U want for normal driving wC4 or C6... There are a few
companies that offer conversions for this..They supply..MOUNTS, Remote oil
filter, heater box kit(for modifying) and instructions..
1.Total Performance..
2.Advanced Adapters.
3.L&L products
4.Custom Conversions.. good luck w/the conversion..

RUN351

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 18:52:34 -0700
From: Jim Lujan
Subject: Re: Alarm System Suggestions

It really depends on your requirements of an alarm. What are you trying
to prevent from happening (car-jacking, towing, vandelism)?

A shock sensor (or two might help you). It won't false trigger when a cat
jumps on the truck, or someone walks by too closely like a doppler unit.
Also, it is my understanding that the doppler field changes as temperatures
fluctuate. As it warms up the field expands, and as it gets colder the
field contracts so that you get more or less coverage than you originally
anticipated. (Of course, this may have been the pitch for shock sensor).
If the field is covering more area than it should, your rate of false
triggers is higher. If it is smaller, than you not being covered where
you need it.

I have had alarms with a combination of voltage sensing, pin switches,
and shock sensors. The number of false triggers has been few.

Albert, I'm curious why dump on DEI products? What evidence do you
have to support your opinion? I have had DEI products for several
vehicles, and have had no complaints. Of course, I live in virtually
a no crime area. Last car stolen in my area was probably 10 years ago.
I use it mostly for the convenience features, remote start on my diesel,
vent the windows in the summer, remote trunk release, etc. So,
I can't say DEI sucks or Alpine sucks. Just curious why you think
DEI products are crap.

No alarm will keep your car from being stolen if the thief *really*
wants it, especially if it was a poor installation.

One final thought. Ignition kill switches are becoming illegal in
some states (not starter kills). If the fuel cut off engages or the
ignition is killed (either advertently or not) and you get stuck on
a train track or something, you're screwed. If it is the thief, who
cares, but they might sue you. Crazy huh... Starter kills are
becoming the norm. If you really prize your vehicle. Put a tracking
system on it.


At 03:50 PM 3/31/98 -0800, you wrote:
>I have a ALPINE 8049 it has a radar sensor to detect motion, but not if a
>cat jumps on your truck. You can set the sensitivity from the remote. It
>has door lock/unlock and is wonderful. Whatever you do, do not buy a DEI
>Alarm they are crap. My alarm also has starter kill, and you can wire up
>the fuel pump is need be. It is great and would recommend it to anyone.
>The key to alarms is the installation. Also ask for a backup battery and
>siren. Hope this helps.
>
>Albert Daniels
>danielsa nevada.edu
>
>On Mon, 30 Mar 1998, Sheldon Belinkoff wrote:
>
>> Tomorrow I'm supposed to pick up my "new" truck to replace one which was
>> recently stolen. I never thought I needed an alarm system or some sort
>> of
>> protection. While I know this topic has come up before, I've not paid
>> much
>> attention to it, so I'd like some "expert" opinions.
>>
>> I'm planning on a fuel shut off switch and a battery/starter
>> disconnect.
>> However, these things won't prevent a break in or stop the truck from
>> being
>> towed away. I'd like an alarm system that can be installed in such a
>> way
>> that it's virtually inaccessible - so it can't be bypassed. I'd also....


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