fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, March 23 1998 Volume 02 : Number 108
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 06:16:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Jeremy Cox
I have been looking at an 89 F-150 4spd, 39k miles, 3" lift, 33" tires,
American Racing wheels Diamond plate tool box superwinch hubs, bedliner,
flowmaster exhaust, procomp shocks, procomp steering stabilizer, push bar,
kc lights, new battery, and a centerforce high performance clutch. The
guy who is selling it is asking 10500. I think this is a pretty good deal,
but I was wondering what some others, particularly those who really now
fords, think about this deal. Please give me your opinion it will help me
>Does anyone know where to get one of those controllers that run a police
>siren that have the pa built in? It has the different siren sounds and the
>mic is part of it. I am looking for one of the older ones that stands alone
>and is not part of a radio. Thanks.
Yes you can often get stuff like this at Ham Fests and if you want to buy
from a store, you can look on www.yahoo.com under Companies and do a search
on "Emergency Services" and "Sirens". There is a lot of irrelevant crap to
filter through but you should find a company who sells this stuff that way.
JC Whitney sells something like that, but I don't know if it is any good or
not. It's supposed to make a whole bunch of sounds plus the siren sounds
and the PA.
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 08:24:41 -0500
From: "Chris Hedemark"
Subject: Re: Possible hint for those hit with peeling paint
>Went shopping today... and ended up picking up a can of mar-hyde
>"Paint Remover" since both my Bronco II and our GMC van will need
Yeah this is a great product. But you have to be REALLY careful about
overspray and masking off what you don't want this stuff to touch. I had a
1968 cougar with about four paint jobs all layered up and this is the only
way I would even dream of stripping it down. Rather than a circuit board, I
used a plastic hand-held ice scraper. You're right, just spray down a
panel, wait a couple of minutes, and the paint all balls up into curdled
paint and is literally brushed off. You seem to have to do this for every
layer of paint, though. Still, beats sanding if you ask me.
Just be SO careful about where you do this, wind conditions, and what other
vehicles are parked anywheres nearby. Also don't try to be macho, it's okay
to wear a respirator. You'll live a little longer.
>I have been looking at an 89 F-150 4spd, 39k miles, 3" lift, 33" tires,
>American Racing wheels Diamond plate tool box superwinch hubs, bedliner,
>flowmaster exhaust, procomp shocks, procomp steering stabilizer, push bar,
>kc lights, new battery, and a centerforce high performance clutch. The
>guy who is selling it is asking 10500. I think this is a pretty good deal,
>but I was wondering what some others, particularly those who really now
>fords, think about this deal. Please give me your opinion it will help me
Jeremy, I make it a point to NEVER buy a truck that has been lifted. Not
that there is anything wrong with owning a lifted truck! But so many people
cut so many corners in lifting their trucks that the only way to know it was
done right and done safe is to do it yourself.
You shouldn't have much problem finding a clean 89 F150 4x4 for less money.
My suggestion is to get a truck without any serious suspension modifications
(but maybe he's already got the bumpers, steps, etc. installed) and do the
lift yourself (or pay a trusted mechanic do it for you). The peace of mind
is worth it, IMO.
BTW - with no lifting at all you can fit 32x11.50x15 on the stock rims that
year with only very little rubbing and that's still only when you are
beating on it offroad. They fill up the wheelwells pretty nicely and I used
to get a lot of compliments on the truck even though it didn't need to be
lifted. If you are going to go through the trouble of lifting a truck and
making all of the associated tradeoffs, it seems like a lot only to gain ONE
INCH of tire diameter. If you really wanted or needed to run 35's for
whatever reason, a lift starts making more sense.
On the back of the instrument panel is is a little known device called
an IVR (integrated voltgage regulator) which regulate the voltgage to
gauges. Symptoms usually include 2 or more gauges either staying at
either end of the
gauges or moving erratically. Testing requires the use of a 22 ohm and
73 ohm resistor
inserted between the lead wire teminal and ground at the sending unit.
With the ignition
turned to the on or ACC position with the 22 ohm resistor in place the
indicate a mid-scale readling with the 73 ohm in place it should read at
the bottom of the
gauge.Without any resistor the gauge should read the same as with the
ignition switch in
the off position. If pointer stays below the E mark or low end check
circuit in the wiring, gauge windings, or instrument cluster printed
circuit. If gauge
reads out of the above readings replace IVR and retest.
I have an 85 F-250 with a somewhat similar problem and had to go digging
through a shop manual to find this, under fuel indicating system and
gauges. I haven't
had the time to really go through this problem yet but I thought this
info might help
you. I did call a Ford dealer and found the IVR run approx $20.00. You
might want to check
the resister ohms for your 87 with a dealer but I believe they should
probably be the
Just another avenue to check, hope this helps.
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 10:07:12 -0500 (EST)
From: "Randy L. Hatcher"
Subject: Re: carphones & PA's
try J.C. Whitney catalog,they have what you're looking for...
On Sun, 22 Mar
1998, Jram wrote:
> Does anyone know where to get one of those controllers that run a police
> siren that have the pa built in? It has the different siren sounds and the
> mic is part of it. I am looking for one of the older ones that stands alone
> and is not part of a radio. Thanks.
> +--------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 ----------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
those that have minds don't use them,those that do can't think straight.
FO>I have been looking at an 89 F-150 4spd, 39k miles, 3" lift, 33" tires,
FO>American Racing wheels Diamond plate tool box superwinch hubs, bedliner,
FO>flowmaster exhaust, procomp shocks, procomp steering stabilizer, push bar,
FO>kc lights, new battery, and a centerforce high performance clutch. The
FO>guy who is selling it is asking 10500. I think this is a pretty good deal,
FO>but I was wondering what some others, particularly those who really now
FO>fords, think about this deal. Please give me your opinion it will help me
Sounds like a horse with a mean eye to me, I wouldn't touch it. Find a
truck without all the tinsel and mod it the way YOU want it. It is very
easy to buy serious problems (sometimes almost unfixable problems) with
a deal like this. The price seems high, too, but I am a cheapskate.
Just my 2 cents.
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 13:16:40 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Check Engine Light
At 01:18 AM 3/22/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi, I was driving today, when my check engine light came on in my 96 F-150
>it is a 5.0 with auto trans. Well this happened about three months ago,
>so I took it to the dealer, found out a hose came of the EGR valve. When
>I got home I checked, sure enough a tube came off the EGR valve, so I
>re-attached it. I started my truck, but the light is still on. Do you
>think it is another problem, or do I have to clear the codes in the
>computer, and if so how? Any help would be appreciated.
I heard that it has to be restarted and driven 5-6 times to reset
emissions warnings on the computer.
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 20:19:21 EST
Subject: Re: Re: carphones & PA's
theres a company with a web page that sells those it called Wolo the web
address is something like www.wolo-msg.com but I'm not sure
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 20:17:01 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: Gauge trouble 87' F-150
How do you know the oil pressure sender is good? Not easy to test... how
did you do it? Does the truck have a temperature guage? If so, how does
it behave? The three (oil, temp, fuel) work as a set.
The instruments DO run on 5 VDC. Don't hit them with 12 V or you will
fry them or the senders.
There is a voltage regulator on the back of the instument panel (called
IVR) just for the guages. It gives you the 5V. It may be bad. The wires
into the back of the panel are also a good place to look. (Someone else
Your symptoms sound like an "open" to the oil pressure guage somewhere
between sender and guage or IVR and guage. Pull the wire off of the oil
sender and see if you can read any voltage at it. (Do not "spark it" to
ground; that will fry the IVR.) If not, do the same to temp guage sender
wire. If no voltage, probably a burned out IVR (get one at a bone yard
for $1 or 2; don't pay retail at the dealer) or no power to the IVR.
BTW, the IVR is adjustable, so if you get one at a yard and your guages
read too low or too high, you can tweak it up or down to where it shold
I don't know what's going on with the fuel guage. Maybe putting 12 V on
the guages somehow damaged the IVR. The fuel guage worked at first, even
when the oil guage died?
The cheesey plastic printed circuits on the back of the instrument
panels go bad sometimes. I would not pay $100 for the panel at the "auto
recycling center". Too much (IMHO).
You can test any guage by replacing sender in circuit with 10 ohm (1
Watt minimum) resistor. Guage should read at max with that. Use 73 ohms
for test at Min. I have a lot of experience with these guages. I can
help you sort out the problems.
Can anyone help, last year the oil gauge on my 87' F-150 (single fuel
tank) slowly died, now it always shows 0 psi, the sender and pressure =
are good. Now the fuel gauge has started to always show full, until the
tank is empty, then the needle starts to bounce toward empty. Last week
I pulled the instrument cluster out and tried to test the gauges. I =
jumpered each gauge as follows: +12v to gauge plus terminal, ground to =
the gauge minus terminal and I ran the remaining gauge terminal to =
ground and varied the resistance according to the Ford manual specs. The
gauges barely responded, but the needles do move. Someone says that 12v
jumpering is wrong, that the gauges use 5v regulated supply. Also two =
owners said that they have similar problems. Did I jumper it wrong? Is =
this a common ford problem? Anyone have a similar situation, what is the
fix? The junk yard wants $100 for a instrument cluster. Any help, before
I go that route would be appreciated.
Paul at Paulygs.prodigy.net
"You guys pair up in groups of three, then line up in a circle"
- Bill Peterson, a Florida State football coach
Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 23:27:59 EST
Subject: Re: distributer nightmare
I had the same problem last year. I rebuilt my 351W and bought a
remanufactured distributor from Arrow. I got burned! The gear ground off
after 500 mi over half of the gear was ground up and mixed with my oil.
I pulled the gear off the dist and found out the rebuilder had not pressed
the gear into position correctly. He even drilled a new hole in the dist
Although they are sorry it is hard to get money out of them unless you take
the vehicle in for repairs, then give them the bill. If you do the work
yourself about all you can expect is a replacement dist, or your money back.
I bought a different brand reman. and have had no more trouble (4,000 mi). I
assume you put in a new dist or at least a new gear when you replaced the pump
If so you should be fine. However, I wonder if cam walking or worn cam
bearings can cause the same trouble. I would think you had extremely bad luck
if you bought 4 bad dist's.
I feel for you man!
In a message dated 98-03-21 01:16:55 EST, you write:
> I have an 89 Bronco (full size) with a 351 engine. I have just had a
> oil pump, and a cam shaft put in it and no less than 3 distributers!! Right
> now, it is sitting in my driveway again because the same thing keeps
> happening. The gear on the distributer shaft keeps getting chewed up,
> causing me to break down. This is why the oil pump and cam shaft were
> replaced, now its happened again. Anyone out there have an idea as to whats
> going on? I could really use some ideas on this. Thanks.
Now, since you've had the cam shaft replaced (and I would hope the
gear as well, that leaves:
1) The bearings/bushings IN the distributor are binding -> gear gets eaten
Q: Did you replace the distributor itself? Did you check bearings? Does
it spin freely? Are the lubrication holes plugged?
2) The distributor shaft is bent -> bearings bind -> gear eaten
Q: did you check if distributor shaft is true?
3) The cam/distributor gears are not compatible, defective, don't mash
correctly, or are not machined correctly.
Q: Did you test their mesh BEFORE installing them?
You should have a good mechanic look at the "chewed" gears... that will be
the best way to diagnose all these things. Or you're going to have to
describe exactly how it's getting "chewed".
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