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Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 00:26:00 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V2 #106
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Sunday, March 22 1998 Volume 02 : Number 106



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 - 1996 Trucks Digest
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Brakes Stick When Wet [Dave Armbruster ]
Hi ["Scottie Schmidt" ]
F150 [Jason DiSalvo ]
Re: Hi [Croth2 ]
Re: F350 front spring arch [Randy ]
Re: 95 Ranger Stx [Randy ]
Introduction & '86 F-150 clutch woes [Bob Sykes ]
Clearing Fault Codes ["David Chester" ]
starter problems [Casey Vandor ]
RE: Louder flasher [Jim Cannon ]
Gauge trouble 87' F-150 ["paul giancaterino" ]
ADMIN: Microsoft Email products [Ken Payne ]
Possible hint for those hit with peeling paint [Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Re: Gauge trouble 87' F-150 [JSCF250 ]
Craftsman gripe [Filip M Gieszczykiewicz ]
Need Air Filter P/N for Banks turbo ["Mike" ]
Re: Craftsman gripe [Randy ]
Re: Gauge trouble 87' F-150 [Randy ]
Re: starter problems [Randy ]
Re: Introduction & '86 F-150 clutch woes [Steve Burnett
Re: Craftsman gripe [Steve Burnett ]
Re: Introduction & '86 F-150 clutch woes [ACMERCG ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 07:56:36 -0700
From: Dave Armbruster
Subject: Re: Brakes Stick When Wet

There is a TSB for my '97 Ranger on this very problem. I had it fixed
while still under warranty, according to the dealer it involved a new set
of shoes and complete cleaning of the mechanicals. Seemed to have fixed
the sticking. He told me that the brake dust would mix with the moisture
and when it got cold, it would gum up until the brake warmed from use.
Mine would stick when it got cold and was damp or raining, so that when
backing out of my parking spot the rear would sort of howl with the shoes
vibrating on the drum.

Dave

>Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 10:28:21 -0500
>From: "Chapman, David P"
>Subject: Brakes Stick When Wet
>
>On my 95 Bronco, which my wife mostly drives (I drive long distance to
>work and run a diesel VW for economy, so she gets the Bronco), she says
>the brakes tend to stick after the trucks been driven in wet weather or
>when sitting outside on a rainy day. She notices it when releasing the
>parking brake or when applying the brakes for the first time. Then it
>disappears. She'll release the brake and when she tries to move the
>truck, she hears a clunk as if the brake shoes just released. She backs
>out, applies the brakes, shifts into gear and hears another clunk as she
>moves forward. Then it stops. If the trucks been in the garage
>overnight (i.e. -out of the wet weather) it doesn't happen. Has anyone
>seen this before or have some insight?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Dave C.
>

>
>Date: Fri, 20 Mar 1998 09:50:41 -0600
>From: John Cassis
>Subject: Brakes
>
>Dont know what it is, but my 93' 4x4 Ranger has done the same thing =
>since it was new. Exactly the same situation though, only whenits been =
>damp or raining out and it sticks the first couple of times and then =
>thats it. Any one out there know how to correct it?
>
>John Cassis

- -----------------------------------------------
Dave Armbruster
Electrical Engineer
email: darmbruster milehigh.net
http: www.milehigh.net/davel
- -----------------------------------------------

Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will
teach you to keep your mouth shut.
-- Ernest Hemmingway

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 07:01:03 -0700
From: "Scottie Schmidt"
Subject: Hi

Hi, I am new to the list and think it is wonderful. I just put a deposit on a truck
last Thursday. It is a 1993 F-150 straight 6. Another member in the family just
announced that they are buying a farm and want to also buy a ford truck. I am not
sure what type of ford would be best for a 14.5 acre farm. Any suggestions would
be great thanks.



Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.mailexcite.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 11:47:31 -0500
From: Jason DiSalvo
Subject: F150

Hi guys, I have a 1994 F150, I am looking to get rid of it. Any intrested
please let me know.

- -Jason
disalvo tco.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 13:14:00 EST
From: Croth2
Subject: Re: Hi

It all depends what kind of farm you have, and what you will be doing with the
truck what you will be pulling etc.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:33:40 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: F350 front spring arch

Yes, Chris the front springs do arch upward. My F-250 has 2 leaf
springs and yours should have 3. I don't know the reason for the
inverted design, though sorry.
Later,
Randy

Chris Foye wrote:
>
> After reading some of the posts about the F250 springs, I had a look at my
> trucks front springs. I have a 97 F350 with the PSD, now I didn't notice
> when I bought the truck so, I don't know if this is normal or not but, they
> arch upwards. Now is this normal and how does it affect the operation of
> the springs as opposed to springs which arch downward?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 15:39:46 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: 95 Ranger Stx

Nathan,
An alternator upgrade is probably in order along w/a second battery.
Even if you don't upgrade the alternator definitely get the second
battery as you mentioned. I'm sure some people will tell you how
great their winches work w/o an upgraded alt or no second battery, but
they're just asking for trouble. Depending on the winch, some can
pull as much as 450 amps under full load! Wow! Fortunately you won't
be pulling that much power for any length of time, but this will
overpower even the biggest aftermarket alternator and you don't want
to drain your main battery. Getting unstuck would be the least of
your worries then. You don't NEED a battery isolater, but it is a
good idea. E-mail me if you have any other q's.
Later,
Randy

Nathan Sipes United Shipping Headquarters wrote:
>
> I plan to use it rather frequently probably at least twice a month. As for
> the purpose to pull out my truck naturally. Duration will probably be fairly
> short i.e. the winch will only have to work between 15-20 minutes at a time.
>
> I tend to get stuck a lot. Also I am into overkill better to have more power
> than I ever need than be stuck that one time with out it. so I am looking at
> 9000-10,000 lbs. winches.
>
> Also anyone happen to know the amp rating on the stock alternator. I figure
> I will have to replace it with a higher capacity one.
>
> also probably a second battery.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 16:22:24 -0800
From: Bob Sykes
Subject: Introduction & '86 F-150 clutch woes

Me:
New lister here. please be gentle....
I just found this list last week. Got the archives and found
a wealth of good information. One of my hobbies is British
roadsters so I'm no stranger to toolboxes ;-) My truck is my
primary transportation when I need something *practical* to drive.

The Truck:
'86 F-150, 2wd, I6 motor, 4 speed tranny (granny 1st gear)
I bought this truck new and haven't worked on it much. So
far I've replaced the heater coil, AC coil (twice) and brake
master cylinder. Other than that it's just been tune ups and
fluids.

The Problem:
Difficulty getting into 2nd gear when the truck is stopped.
It goes into 3rd and 4th easily. It always been a little
notchy going into 2nd since day one, but lately it's gotten
worse and I really have to jerk the lever to get in gear.
No grinding sounds when I force into gear. Once It's in 2nd
I can go to neutral, and back into 2nd easily as long as I
don't let up on the clutch pedal in between. Usually a "thunk"
from the driveline when it goes into gear first time.

Diagnosis so far:
Initially I suspected the transmission. But after searching
the archives, it looks more like my clutch. Fluid is OK.
No fire-wall or pedal linkage flex / play.
Release level travel is a little better than .7 inches.
Based on the archives, this looks in spec? My Hanynes
manual (880) makes no mention whatsoever of a hydraulic actuated
clutch. I can't find any possible adjustments to make to it.

Speculation:
I don't think the TOB/pressure plate is worn out. The truck only
has 75K on it. 80% of them highway miles. I'm kind to the clutch
& stay off of it when sitting still. A habit learned from many
years of driving Triumphs. They have fairly weak crankshaft thrust
surfaces. I'm about ready to try and replace the MC/SC just because
that's the easiest. There appears to be some pitfalls here with
the unusual (to me) plastic parts.

The parts houses tell me my clutch is either a 10" or 11" unit.
Any way for me to tell which? I'm hoping I don't have to replace
it. The tranny looks like it weighs as much my hobby cars ;-)

Any net wisdom / advice would be appreciated.

Thanks for listening,
Bob in North Carolina

- --
Bob Sykes
"You can't beat your brains for entertainment."

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 16:36:16 -0500
From: "David Chester"
Subject: Clearing Fault Codes

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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My truck is a 1995 F-150 Super Cab, 5.0L V-8, 4 speed OD auto =
transmission and now has
just over 123, 000 miles on it.=20

While pulling my boat in the summer heat last August, the OD lockout =
"OFF" light on the=20
gearshift lever handle began to blink (I WAS towing with it locked out) =
constantly and I also=20
noticed that all the shifts up or down became very hard. Upon returning =
to my dealer, the tech=20
hooked his box up to the truck and it determined that the computer had =
detected excessive=20
slip in my torque converter and it needed to be replaced. He cleared the =
code from the computer
and said I would be ok for the next few days untill I could leave it for =
repair. Well, I have been driving
it since, still towing my boat occasionally, and had no other problems =
untill today when it started=20
flashing again.=20

My question is......is there a way I can clear that code from my trucks =
computer WITHOUT the box
that my Ford dealer has? It would get me through untill I can set up an =
appointment to have a torque
converter installed and not have to put up with those hard shifts!

Thanks, =20

David Chester ICQ # 476997
BassAngler.Com http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bassangler.com
Bainbridge Bass Club http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bassangler.com/bbc.htm
Blazer Boats http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.blazerboats.com
GBCF Webmaster http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bassangler.com/gbcf

- ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01BD54E7.77DA0F80
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable






http-equiv=3DContent-Type>



My truck is a 1995 F-150 Super Cab, 5.0L V-8, 4 =
speed OD auto=20
transmission and now has
just over 123, 000 miles on it.
 
While pulling my boat in the summer heat last =
August, the OD=20
lockout "OFF"
size=3D2>light on the=20

gearshift lever handle began to blink (I WAS towing =
with it=20
locked out) constantly and I also
noticed that all the shifts up =
or down=20
became very hard. Upon returning to my dealer, the =
tech=20

hooked his box up to the truck and it determined =

size=3D2>that the computer had detected excessive
slip in my torque converter and it needed to be =
replaced. He=20
cleared the code from the computer
and said I would be ok for the next few days untill =
I could=20
leave it for repair. Well, I have been driving
it since, still towing my boat occasionally, and had =
no other=20
problems untill today when it started
flashing again. 
 
My question is......is there a way I can clear that =
code from=20
my trucks computer WITHOUT the box
that my Ford dealer has? It would get me through =
untill I can=20
set up an appointment to have a torque
converter installed and not have to put up with =
those hard=20
shifts!
 
Thanks,     
David=20
Chester           =
   =20
ICQ #  =20
476997BassAngler.Com        &=
nbsp; =20

href=3D"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bassangler.com">http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bassangler.comBainb=
ridge=20
Bass Club   
href=3D"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bassangler.com/bbc.htm">http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bassangler.com/bbc.=
htmBlazer=20
Boats           &n=
bsp;    =20

href=3D"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.blazerboats.com">http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.blazerboats.comGBC=
F=20
Webmaster        
href=3D"http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bassangler.com/gbcf">http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bassangler.com/gbcf
>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01BD54E7.77DA0F80--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 13:41:16 -0900
From: Casey Vandor
Subject: starter problems

Before I bought my truck, there were some problems with the starter. We
took it to the shop that the starter was from, and they said it was the
the wrong size and they gave us new one to put on. The problem, atleast
what they told us, is that the bendix gear would go out past the
flywheel and get stuck, then when you go to start the truck, you just
get a click, it wont turn over. Now a year later after no trouble, the
starter has "stuck" 5 times in the past 3 days. It will start after 4-5
attemps, but I can't hear the starter moving when it clicks, it just
chooses to fire up after a few tries. Is this a starter related problem
or maybe a wiring problem. I can pull the starter and table test it,
but would be willing to try other suggestions first i.e. relay or
something....

Thanks
Casey

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 19:20:51 -0600
From: Jim Cannon
Subject: RE: Louder flasher

Casey-

When I was in Radio Shack the other day, I saw a very small
(0.5"x0.375"x0.375") 12 VDC buzzer. It reminded me... If you want to,
you can hook one up to your flasher unit (the regular one or the
heavy-duty one) in your fuse panel, and it will buzz with each flash of
the lights. It will really remind you that you have the turn signals on.

I have on hooked up to my headlights at the fuse box (along with a
diode) to remind me that I have my lights on when the ignition is off.
(I drive a lot with my lights on, so I tend to leave them on and run the
battery down without a reminder.) Anyway, they are pretty loud, so they
will work for what you are looking for.
- --

Jim Cannon
Houston, Texas

"You guys pair up in groups of three, then line up in a circle"
- Bill Peterson, a Florida State football coach

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 20:45:59 -0500
From: "paul giancaterino"
Subject: Gauge trouble 87' F-150

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Can anyone help, last year the oil gauge on my 87' F-150 (single fuel =
tank) slowly died, now it always shows 0 psi, the sender and pressure =
are good. Now the fuel gauge has started to always show full, until the =
tank is empty, then the needle starts to bounce toward empty. Last week =
I pulled the instrument cluster out and tried to test the gauges. I =
jumpered each gauge as follows: +12v to gauge plus terminal, ground to =
the gauge minus terminal and I ran the remaining gauge terminal to =
ground and varied the resistance according to the Ford manual specs. The =
gauges barely responded, but the needles do move. Someone says that 12v =
jumpering is wrong, that the gauges use 5v regulated supply. Also two =
owners said that they have similar problems. Did I jumper it wrong? Is =
this a common ford problem? Anyone have a similar situation, what is the =
fix? The junk yard wants $100 for a instrument cluster. Any help, before =
I go that route would be appreciated.
Paul at Paulygs.prodigy.net
=20

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Can anyone help, last year the oil =
gauge on my=20
87' F-150 (single fuel tank) slowly died, now it always shows 0 psi, the =
sender=20
and pressure are good. Now the fuel gauge has started to always show =
full, until=20
the tank is empty, then the needle starts to bounce toward empty. Last =
week I=20
pulled the instrument cluster out and tried to test the gauges. I =
jumpered each=20
gauge as follows: +12v to gauge plus terminal, ground to the gauge minus =

terminal and I ran the remaining gauge terminal to ground and varied the =

resistance according to the Ford manual specs. The gauges barely =
responded, but=20
the needles do move. Someone says that 12v jumpering is wrong, that the =
gauges=20
use 5v regulated supply. Also two owners said that they have similar =
problems.=20
Did I jumper it wrong? Is this a common ford problem? Anyone have a =
similar=20
situation, what is the fix? The junk yard wants $100 for a instrument =
cluster.=20
Any help, before I go that route would be appreciated.
Paul at=20
Paulygs.prodigy.net

size=3D2> 

- ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BD550A.5AD9D0A0--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:24:24 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Microsoft Email products

This message is going out to all the Ford Truck Enthusiasts
email lists. Thanks to everyone who replied to my request
for help. I wish I could personally thank all of you but
there were many who replied.

NOTE TO USERS OF MICROSOFT EMAIL PRODUCTS
Microsoft products, by default, attach binary attachments to
emails. Our list server is setup to reject these emails.
To turn off these attachments:

Outlook Express
From the Tools menu, choose Options. Then click on the
Mail Format tab. Make sure "Plain text" is selected.

Exchange
Go into the address book and select the address for the
mailing list. Display the properties for the address entry
and you should see a check box labeled "Always send to this
recipient in Microsoft Exchange rich-text format". Make sure
this check box is turned OFF.

Internet Mail/Microsoft Inbox
Go to options, then under the Send tab under Mail Sending
format, make sure plain text is on and hit the settings key.
From there select uuencode. Also, go to Tools then Services
then Internet Mail. Then the General Tab, Message Format,
uncheck "Use MIME".

Internet Explorer
In the Mail...Options menu on the Send tab there is a section
called Mail Sending Format. Make sure the radio button for
Plain text is selected and the Settings button has MIME
unselected.

Please do not ask the administrators for help with any of these
products. They do not use Microsoft email software and cannot
help you. The email suggestions came from the list members. If
you need help, contact Microsoft or your Internet provider.
Information can also be found at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mimecrap.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 20:24:43 -0600 (CST)
From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Subject: Possible hint for those hit with peeling paint

Went shopping today... and ended up picking up a can of mar-hyde
"Paint Remover" since both my Bronco II and our GMC van will need
mucho paint removed and repainted. I've been systematically going
over my B2 and removing the loose paint with sand-paper and or
grinder (since I have small rust spot(s) nearly on every sq foot
of the body... damn). Just for the hell of it, I sprayed the rear
right quarter panel and went back into the house. A half hour
later, I came back and was _absolutely_ amazed to see that ALLLLLL
the paint had literally bunched up and peeled clean off the primer!
I took the next thing I had handy - a computer PC board (made of
fibreglass) - and applying minor pressure, I had all the paint and
stripper on the floor 5 minutes later. Wondering if it would also
take down the primer, I resprayed and waited... yes it does.

So, here's the hint: if your car is peeling, AND you want to try
repainting it yourself, AND you don't want to play the grinder'n'
putty game, GET a can of this stuff and have at it. If you have any
clear-coat left (unlike me :-), you might need to do this three
times (once for each layer). You SHOULD end up with BARE METAL
surface ready for anything.

If you think that I'm excited, then you're right. Not because I can
do this on my Bronco II... but because I can re-do the GMC van's
roof - which is ribbed and a pain in the ass to otherwise paint-strip!
I'm going to get the 2lb pail of this stuff and have at it... since
only the roof is peeling, I intend to mask everything else off (God,
that's going to take a LOT of newspapers :-) and peel it, prime it,
and paint it. With this stuff, I can do the peel part outside... and
move it in for the rest. The van is dark grey and when I'm done with it
it will have a BRILLIANT WHITE roof. Yeah, Florida Keys vacations :-)

Of course, this is old knowledge and everyone can start laughing at
me now that I even bothered to grinder some paint off :-)

Take care.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 21:49:51 EST
From: JSCF250
Subject: Re: Gauge trouble 87' F-150

hey, the fuel gauge on my wifes mercury sable wagon does the same.( but she
hasnt run out of gas yet) id better fix it or i will never hear the end of it.
i personally dont think its the gauge. maybe the float in the tank. the sender
in my truck did the same on the oil pressure 6 bucks i replaced it and its
fixed. the gauges rarely ever go bad. i will troubleshoot it tommorrow. wait
before you buy the cluster. check the plug and wiring that go to the cluster.
i will let you know what i recover.

joe jscf250

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 20:51:10 -0600 (CST)
From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Subject: Craftsman gripe

I was shopping for a nut-splitter today (changing body mounts, 3 of
them are nicely resisting my breaker bar.. drat). I went to PepBoys
and picked up one of them for $20 or so. Lifetime Warranty... made
in Taiwan... except they had two that were still made in the USA and
just generally looked a lot more sturdy - same part # and packaging -
made by CTA (Carlstadt, NJ) - and I dropped by a local Sears to
see how a Craftsman would compare. They had one for $14 with a
replacment blade for $4. Thinking that I had a better deal, I
drove back to PepBoys and thought about it in the parkinglot.

The CTA one has a ball-joint on the tip of the press bolt... means that
it will not only tighten a lot easer and truer, but it will also
not wear the tip. The Sears one is just a dull dowel tip. The only
bonus for the Sears one is that they _did_ stock the blade.

CTA
_______
----/ |
-------------/ | [~~]
[B> D=(O==============|=[ ] press bolt
[ _________________________| [__]

Sears
_______
----/ |
-------------/ | [~~]
[B> (===============|=[ ] press bolt
[ _________________________| [__]


Real test. The CTA cuts a 3/4" Grade 5 nut much easier, with less
movement from the bolt (ie. the whole cutter body stays in one
place), no shifting, effortless :-) I'll stop short of sayit it
was "fun"...

The sears model is 180 degrees from the CTA. I had it slip off the
bolt twice (yes, I know about the blade angles)... and the press
bolt's tip is dented already... meaning that it doesn't press
evenly on the nut.

Perhaps most people don't care about a tool like this, but I plan to
do maybe a dozen 3/4 (7/8?) nuts and decided to shop around with an
engaged brain. Sears picked an inferior product/design to bear its
trademark. Now that I think about it, I'm probably blowing this
out of proportions. I'll keep both.

Take care.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 20:18:20 -0800
From: "Mike"
Subject: Need Air Filter P/N for Banks turbo

I just bought an 85 F250 6.9l diesel with Banks turbo - it's missing the
air filter. Does any have the air filter P/N? Is it a K&N? Or is there a
Fram equivalent?


Thanks,
mike miller
85 F250 4x4, extended cab, 6.9l w Banks turbo
74 F350 Super Camper Special, 390 - For Sale

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 00:33:23 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Craftsman gripe

Nice illustrations :)
A torch is always a nice bolt cutter too :)
Later,
Randy

Filip M Gieszczykiewicz wrote:
>
> CTA
> _______
> ----/ |
> -------------/ | [~~]
> [B> D=(O==============|=[ ] press bolt
> [ _________________________| [__]
>
> Sears
> _______
> ----/ |
> -------------/ | [~~]
> [B> (===============|=[ ] press bolt
> [ _________________________| [__]
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 00:36:00 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Gauge trouble 87' F-150

Paul,
Don't know if my problem will help you solve yours or not, but....
I have an '87 F-250 w/dual tanks. With either tank being used (two
different sending units, right?) my gauge will bounce all over when my
tank is about half full. Like, between 3/8 and 5/8 I'd say. This
would indicate to me that it's the gauge, at least in my case. Fix?
Haven't even played w/the idea yet. Let me know what you find out,
please.
Later,
Randy

> paul giancaterino wrote:
>
> Can anyone help, last year the oil gauge on my 87' F-150 (single
> fuel tank) slowly died, now it always shows 0 psi, the sender and
> pressure are good. Now the fuel gauge has started to always show
> full, until the tank is empty, then the needle starts to bounce
> toward empty. Last week I pulled the instrument cluster out and
> tried to test the gauges. I jumpered each gauge as follows: +12v to
> gauge plus terminal, ground to the gauge minus terminal and I ran
> the remaining gauge terminal to ground and varied the resistance
> according to the Ford manual specs. The gauges barely responded, but
> the needles do move. Someone says that 12v jumpering is wrong, that
> the gauges use 5v regulated supply. Also two owners said that they
> have similar problems. Did I jumper it wrong? Is this a common ford
> problem? Anyone have a similar situation, what is the fix? The junk
> yard wants $100 for a instrument cluster. Any help, before I go that
> route would be appreciated.
> Paul at Paulygs.prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 00:41:09 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: starter problems

Casey,
the fact that you're hearing a 'click' can mean a few things, but
usually it means the starter is not getting enough juice. It throws
out the bendix, but then doesn't have enough power to turn the
flywheel. I would check connections first. New wire is rather
inexpensive, so I would probably just put a new wire on and see what
happens. Thoroughly clean ALL of your contacts since your under there
anyway. Baking soda is great at cleaning the acid deposits on the
battery. This would be the least expensive attempt and should be
pretty straight forward. The fact that the starter is getting juice
at all indicates the relay is probably fine. Let me know what
happens,
Later,
Randy

Casey Vandor wrote:
>
> Before I bought my truck, there were some problems with the starter. We
> took it to the shop that the starter was from, and they said it was the
> the wrong size and they gave us new one to put on. The problem, atleast
> what they told us, is that the bendix gear would go out past the
> flywheel and get stuck, then when you go to start the truck, you just
> get a click, it wont turn over. Now a year later after no trouble, the
> starter has "stuck" 5 times in the past 3 days. It will start after 4-5
> attemps, but I can't hear the starter moving when it clicks, it just
> chooses to fire up after a few tries. Is this a starter related problem
> or maybe a wiring problem. I can pull the starter and table test it,
> but would be willing to try other suggestions first i.e. relay or
> something....

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Mar 1998 23:20:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Burnett
Subject: Re: Introduction & '86 F-150 clutch woes

On Sat, 21 Mar 1998, Bob Sykes wrote:

> One of my hobbies is British
> roadsters so I'm no stranger to toolboxes ;-)

.. and Lucas elecricals, lever arm shocks, BSW bolts. Yep, I've been
there too.

> The Truck:
> '86 F-150, 2wd, I6 motor, 4 speed tranny (granny 1st gear)

I had a '76 F150 I6, 3-on-the-tree, and my current vehicle is a '90 F150
I6 with 5-speed.


> The Problem:
> Difficulty getting into 2nd gear when the truck is stopped.
> It goes into 3rd and 4th easily. It always been a little
> notchy going into 2nd since day one, but lately it's gotten
> worse and I really have to jerk the lever to get in gear.
> No grinding sounds when I force into gear. Once It's in 2nd
> I can go to neutral, and back into 2nd easily as long as I
> don't let up on the clutch pedal in between. Usually a "thunk"
> from the driveline when it goes into gear first time.

The "thunk" sure sounds like to me that the clutch is not releasing
enough.

> Speculation:
> I don't think the TOB/pressure plate is worn out.

The pressure plate could be warped. Or, if it's one of the three
finger-style pressures plates, it could be that one of the release fingers
is bent or worn.

> I'm about ready to try and replace the MC/SC just because
> that's the easiest.

I'd also try bleeding them first.

> There appears to be some pitfalls here with
> the unusual (to me) plastic parts.

Indeed. Although I've yet to have to work on the clutch hydraulics on my
'90, they do seem fragile.

> The parts houses tell me my clutch is either a 10" or 11" unit.
> Any way for me to tell which? I'm hoping I don't have to replace
> it. The tranny looks like it weighs as much my hobby cars ;-)
>
> Any net wisdom / advice would be appreciated.

If the clutch is not releasing all the way, either from a bad cylinder,
pressure plate, or whatever, I've always noticed that the problem gets
worse as the clutch heats up. Like in bumper-to-bumber traffic.....


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