fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, September 9 1997 Volume 01 : Number 099
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Re: a warning HOAX [Dale Grein ]
Re:F350 crew PS? Expect to pay heavily! [Ducks4jim aol.com]
Ford V-8` [Ezekial ]
Rust Protection. ["Lou Guerriero" ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #96 [Richard J Wilson
Converting Side Marker Lights [ILuvTruks aol.com]
Re: Rustproofing ["Leo Mosley" ]
I have a complaint/comment. Why is everyone refering to a 350 V-8???
Ford does not have this engine. Please refer to 351 V-8, this is the
ford engine, the before is Chevy. Dodge is the 360. Just want to clear
things up. I take my Ford pride very seriously. Thanx.
I have an 88 Bronco II, and need to get some Rust Protection... The
underbody is getting that slightly red look from rust dust. What is the
best solution to remove that and protect my truck.?
Also, I found out the steering problem I mentioned yesterday. The right
U joint seized, and the clunking at braking was from a loos ball joint.
Cost to change both? $350.00 plus tax, here in Canada. And Tax is 15%!
I gotta get my automotive degree...
][ No Matter Where you go, there you are! ][
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 23:42:58 -0500
From: Richard J Wilson
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #96
Can't give you a definite answer, but can offer you my experience. On my
86, I had some part that was loose and was told YOU NEED TO FIX THIS
IMMEDIATLY. It was $150. At the time, I had 60K miles and didn't believe
that this was the only part worn out. I didn't get it fixed until 6 months
later. I had the entire front-end rebuilt for about $450. Before the
rebuild, the steering was pretty sloppy. After the rebuild, it was like
new again. Though I was disapointed at having to do this kind of work a
this mileage, that was my only major repair. I only hoped that it was not
the beginning of doing something major regularly. Since then, I have had a
couple of repairs not assosiated with the front-end(clutch work and water
Since then, my front-end has been fine, though it can use an alignment.
Probably shocks too. Still the orginals. I was told that the parts used to
rebuild it were better that what the factory used when new. Don't remember
exactly why, but something about lubing the parts now but couldn't before.
Hope this helps.
At 05:20 AM 9/8/97 -0400, Lou Guerriero wrote:
>Help me on this one! My steering lost it yesterday! I turned a corner,
>and I noticed a little pull. The next corner I took, it didn't want to
>It's pulling to the left like crazy! I'm taking to the shop today, but
>want to know what it could be! The steering is way loose. It is very
>scary to drive. The pwr str fluid was at the full cold level when hot, and
>the hoses etc under the hosing were oily. The fluid itself smelled burnt.
>I don't like this one! And I just had it in the shop for a tune
>up/inspection 2 months ago, and they said all was fine, after $1500 flippin
>bucks worth of work.
>Anyway, any ideas? I don't wanna get ripped off.... I'm thinking some
>kind of seal...?
>][ No Matter Where you go, there you are! ][
>E-mail: loug easyinternet.net
>ICQ UIN: 1235438
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Just want to give you guys a web address. I found this site that has some
instructions on how to convert the side marker lights into turn signals. I
haven't done it to my Bronco II yet, that will be my "do while I am
re-building" side project. The guy says it only works while the running
lights are on, but I am going to see about afro-engineering it into working
full-time. I will need to look at the wiring diagram for my B2 but I know it
can be done. Anyway, It's pretty good background info. Should be a pretty
cool (and safer) result.
Here it is: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.paranoia.com/~filipg/HTML/AUTO/F_marker2turn.html
86 Bronco II XLT 4x4
:-) The shortest distance between two points is always under construction :-(
For what it's worth, I would recommend something like Rust Check rather than
Ziebart. I have used both, and never liked the Ziebart process. The coating is
very thick, and it seems to break away fairly easily. I also found that it
seemed to trap moisture in many areas. It is also difficult to get complete
coverage. I found it to be very expensive to install and maintain. Rust Check,
on the other hand is a thin coating that really seems to repel moisture, and
provides very good coverage. Along with the undercarriage, it gets into body
seams, and pushes moisture out. Rust Check needs to applied every year (I
think), but in the long run I don't believe it is any more expensive. I lived
back east in Canada for several years, and used Rust Check on my cars. There
was no rust showing on the body or undercarriage of any of them, after four
years. The other thing I disliked about Ziebart was the sticky mess when you
tried to do any work under the vehicle.
My two cents worth!
> Winter is around the corner, and I was wondering if you could help me with
> What is the best/cheapest undercoating? I have some kind of Bedliner
> stuff on the body, but I am concerened about the light surface rust
> starting to form on the fram rails, etc.
> Is oil the best bet for this? Or perhaps something like Rust Check or
> I just moved east from the west coast, and it's not as big of a concern....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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