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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 03:50:23 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
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Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #286
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fordtrucks80up-digest Wednesday, December 31 1997 Volume 01 : Number 286



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Octane [Randy ]
cover [David ]
Re: Please Help me somebody..... ["Jeffrey Hansen" ]
Re:Exhaust ["Casey Vandor" ]
Re: F150 Conversions [Lt 4x4 ]
Re: Carpet [Jim Orson ]
Big Blocking an F150/ Detroit Locker [Gary Spradley ]
ADMIN: Request for articles [Ken Payne ]
More on '81 Ford Electrical troubles... ["The Lublin Family"
Glass packs... ["The Lublin Family" ]
Re: Octane [Midwest96 ]
exhaust\headers ["Casey Vandor" ]
Re: Intermittent Wiper Switch [Lehmandp ]

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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 19:47:23 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Octane

Dave Resch wrote:
>
> >From: rsmall isgroup.net (Robert Smallwood)
> >Subject: Octane
> >snip
> >
> >Higher octane fuels have a "higher" flash point (ignites at a
> >higher temperature). During the compression stroke of an
>
> Yo Robert:
>
> Octane is simply defined as a gasoline fuel's ability to resist spontaneous
> (not spark induced) ignition. There is no direct correlation between
> octane and flash point or octane and specific energy (energy/mass).
>
> The flash point of gasoline is determined by the particular combination of
> organic compounds present in the fuel (i.e., the formulation). Typical
> gasoline contains about 30 different organic compounds, plus other
> chemicals. Some of these are the major energy components of the fuel
> (hydrocarbons like heptane and iso-octane) and others are additives for
> regulatory pollution control (oxygenated hydrocarbons like ethanol), octane
> enhancement, or other fuel performance reasons (such as fuel system
> cleansing or anti-corrosive treatments).
>
> The fuel's formulation can be (and is often) adjusted at the refinery for
> various reasons, including point emissions (i.e., pollution from the
> refinery) and seasonal temperature changes. For example, boiling point is
> another factor affected by the fuel formulation. Boiling point it is
> adjusted up in the summer to prevent vapor lock problems, and down in the
> winter to maintain driveability (proper vaporization at lower ambient air
> temperatures).
>
> > The higher octane fuels actually
> >have more available energy to convert than lower octane
> >fuels. However, the engine must be constructed to be able
> The energy content of a fuel is measured as specific energy, which is the
> energy output per unit mass of fuel. For example, kilocalories per
> kilogram (darn metric stuff!).
>
> Nowadays, most of the same oxygenated hydrocarbons used for pollution
> control (ethanol, methanol, MTBE, TAME, etc.) are also used for octane
> enhancement, since they are considered less toxic than previously-used
> volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and tetra ethyl lead.
>
> Oxygenated hydrocarbons have a lower specific energy than the "pure"
> hydrocarbons used to make up most of the content of gasoline (heptane and
> iso-octane). The main reason for this is that the oxygenated hydrocarbon
> molecules already have an oxygen atom in them and therefore they release
> less energy when (further) oxidized (i.e., burnt) than hydrocarbon
> molecules with no oxygen in them.
>
> Therefore, higher octane fuels usually have less specific energy than lower
> octane fuels.
>
> Perhaps this myth about the energy output of high octane gasoline stems
> from the fact that high compression engines (which require high octane
> gasoline) are endowed with higher volumetric efficiency and thus produce
> more power output per engine displacement. Actually, the volumetric
> efficiency of the engine (design) is the major contributor to engine's
> power output potential, and it just so happens that high octane gasoline is
> required by the engine's high compression design.
>
> If you really want to know all the nitty-gritty chemistry behind gasoline
> fuels and internal combustion engines, check out the following web site:
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.cs.ruu.nl/wais/html/na-dir/autos/gasoline-faq/.html
>
> This web site provides an excellent and very detailed explanation of
> gasoline chemistry and formulation issues and I highly recommend it.
>
> Happy new year.
>
> Dave R. (M-block devotee)
>
tetramethethylgyclorinateoxymolecularisooctkilogigcalorichydrocarbonoxidiheps....whew!!!
can't wait to see the responses that post generates....
- -Randy-

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 19:08:25 -0500
From: David
Subject: cover

I have a Extang Saber tonno cover for sale for Ranger short bed. Looks new.
All hardware included.
asking $160.00 (includes any shipping charges)
Send replies to:David

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 19:07:36 -0500
From: "Jeffrey Hansen"
Subject: Re: Please Help me somebody.....

Since I've just gone through a similar tale, let me help out a tad.

A. Even electrical geniuses need help figuring out problems like this one.
We normal handy types just use the old intuition method until we hit upon
the solution.

2. The "squealing like crazy" belt is a clue, but only a partial clue.
Sure it could use tightening and whatnot, but that won't cure the lights.

iii. Your beating on the side of the truck and having a light come on is
the best clue. I would suspect a short in a ground wire, since the lights
are dimming in disparate locations, but they all could share a common
ground. Usually, the ground is traced back to some location where it's
bolted to the frame or the body, and it's usually all corroded in a truck
that's a few years old. If the fuse wasn't blown when you replaced it,
then that's ok, but if the fuse did blow, then there is a really serious
short somewhere in that ground wire, and it's probably in a connector that
is corroded. I had one replaced the other week that looked ok on the top,
visible side, but was completely burnt out on the other side, and the wires
were fused from one hot to the ground wire.

So, if you want to do this, I'd get under the bed, look for corroded ground
wires first, then concentrate on the connectors, there's plenty of them back
there.

And sure, tighten or replace that belt on the alternator.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 15:12:40 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: Re:Exhaust

>Just my two cents but after building a healthy Windsor for my 84 F150, I
>was stuck on which size exhaust to run. I ultimately went with headers
>and dual 3". After putting the truck in bad places here in Central
Alabama,
>I can't see how a smaller diameter exhaust could have made enough
difference
>in torque to matter. My moter is making somewhere around 375 horses and
this
>may play a role in why it does so well on 3".
>The dual 3" is quite difficult to route and takes up more room. I can say
>it sounds unlike no 2 or 2 1/2" exhaust I've ever heard, just ask my
>neighbors. hehe

>Gary Spradley 84F150 4X4

That does sound like a good setup, but my motor only puts out a little over
260 hp. So dual 3 inches would probably be a little much.
Casey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 20:58:54 EST
From: Lt 4x4
Subject: Re: F150 Conversions

In a message dated 97-12-29 17:27:13 EST, TRIO1 allstate.com writes:


conversions? I saw an ad about 3 years ago where they took an
F150 and lengthened the frame to add on to the cab. Made the truck look
like a baby-crew cab. They left the 8' bed. The other model was a 4x4
F150 that had a lift suspension, and bigger tires. The difference was the
didn't lengthen the frame, but took the extra cab space from the bed.
Then the truck ended up with something like a 5' or 5 1/2' bed. Made the
thing look like some sort of basterdized AM General Hummer! Neat idea,
but, think I'll leave my '94 as is. >>


I looked at one of these conversion F-150s and I thought it looked very nice.
If I didn't absolutley have to have a long bed, I would have considered it.
It was a Centurion Conversion.

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 20:29:42 -0600
From: Jim Orson
Subject: Re: Carpet

> Date: Tue, 30 Dec 97 11:02
> From: CASSIS universal.usa.com (Cassis, John)
> Subject: Carpet
>
> Does anybody know where (other than the dealer) I could get a rubber
> floor kit for my truck and what it might cost. I have carpet and am very
> much an outdoors person. The carpet just gets thrashed. I've seen the
> full size trucks with rubber floors and my old 80' Courrier had it and I
> loved it. You could just scrub it clean with soap and water. No big deal.
> Anyway thanks for any input here.
>
> John Cassis
> The Danger Ranger
> 93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed
>
> ------------------------------

Look at the Husky Liner as an option at

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ttol.com/husky/home.htm

Should run under $100 for both front and rear (if you have the extended
cab). Probably $50 for just the front. The fit is perfect. I leave
them in the winter and move them in and out in the summer depending on
the weather. A truck accessories store in your town should be able to
order them.

Jim Orson
1997 Ranger XLT Deluxe
Auto/4.0L

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 22:53:04 -0600
From: Gary Spradley
Subject: Big Blocking an F150/ Detroit Locker

Just wondering if anyone out there has converted an F150 to a Big
Block. Any success or horror stories would be appreciated.

Lastly, has anyone had experience with the new Detroit locker made
for C clip type axles?

Thanks
Gary Spradley 84 F150 4X4

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 00:09:34 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Request for articles

If you have a talent, have done an upgrade, engine swap,
performance enhancement, repair, added an alarm system,
etc.... whatever it is you can share your experience
with others via the web site.

I recently put an article on the web site describing
upgrading 67-72 Ford trucks to front disc brakes. Another
list member has submitted an article on Ford C6/NP205
transmission removal and re-installation which will soon
appear on the web site.

You'll get full credit for an article, I won't edit it and
you keep the copyright (there will be a copyright notice on
it). I can't offer financial gain because, frankly, the web
site ain't making money. We come out a little above the
break even point. I will, however, send you one of our window
stickers.

I'm searching for experience with any Ford truck/van model,
any year and virtually any area (an article on changing
tires is probably not a good idea!). If you're interested,
let me know (kpayne mindspring.com) browse the conversion
guide on the web site to get a basic idea of the format.
The C6/NP205 guide has a similar format.

Thanks,

Ken
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 00:26:40 -0500
From: "The Lublin Family"
Subject: More on '81 Ford Electrical troubles...

>
>Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 18:12:57 -0800
>From: Randy
>Subject: Re: Please Help me somebody.....
>
>The Lublin Family wrote:
>>
>> Hi all:
>>
>> I am still battling electrical problems on the '81 Ford. Here is the story: The tail lights, parking lights, dash lights
and
>> license lights are really screwy here. I replaced the fuse that controls these circuits and I started the truck up and let it
>> run for about 10 minutes. I turned these lights on and they worked fine. Well I took it for a road test and it worked
fine
>> till I got about 1mile up the road the dash lights started flickering, the tail lights went out, and my alternator belt started
>> squealing like crazy. Well I pulled into a parking lot and and turned my lights back on. I walked to the back of the truck
>> and my tail lights and license plate lights were out. I hit up against the side of the truck and one tail light and both
>> license plate lights went on. The tail light that came on was the driver's side one. I then went back on the road on the
way
>> home, and turned my lights back on. They worked fine for a few seconds then my alternator belt started squealing, and my dash
>> lights started flickering and the tail lights went back out. Well I shut my lights off and drove home with my flashers on.
>> Could somebody please help! I don't know a thing about electrical systems. HELP!
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Chris "Lube" Lublin
>>
>Well Lube, sounds like it's time for a new belt. That won't cure your
>flickering lights, but it will help out the electrical system alot,
>especially the battery. I'd have to say you're looking at a short
>somewhere. Has anyone ever hooked a trailer pig-tail to the system?

Yes it had a trailer light hookup at one time or another. The thing I don't is why did it not show these problems back in May
when I bought the truck?

If
>your taillights keep dieing, crawl under the rear bumper and see if
>anyone has ever cut into the electrical wires. This could be one
>problem. Whatever it is sounds like vibration brings out the culprit.
>Apparently if you turn on the lights and they all come on with the truck
>not running and sitting still, they will stay on, but you didn't state
>that for sure

When the truck is not running it all works perfect. If I start it up and turn those lights on, and let it run, it still works
fine. If I drive the truck, I can get about 1/4-/12 mile up the road till it starts pulling that crap on me again. I am
thinking maybe there is an over load in the system that is causing my alternator to work hard, thus making my belt squeal. The
belt only squeals when the lights are acting up! If it is running and the system is working fine, it does not squeal at all.

. You can be pretty sure that it isn't a wire going to any
>one individual light, but a power source for all of them, even though
>only one light came on after hitting the side of the truck (unless, of
>course, it's a wire to each and every light, but doubt that). Start at
>the taillights and trace the wires back to the front. There will
>probably be places where you can't see the wire due to obstructions, but
>look at the wiring wherever you can for any fraying, cuts, nicks, scraps
>(even if it's just the insulation). This is not a garuantee that you'll
>find the short, if there is one, since the wires could be broken inside

Well Randy and the rest, thanks for the input. I hope I can get the thing fixed soon. Have a happy new year!

Chris "Lube" Lublin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 00:29:32 -0500
From: "The Lublin Family"
Subject: Glass packs...

Why and how do glass packs reduce power and economy? I personally like the sound of them over a turbo or any other muffler.
Anybody ever attempt to put a farm tractor muffler on a car or truck? Those a really unrestricted.

Chris "Lube" Lublin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 01:01:24 EST
From: Midwest96
Subject: Re: Octane

In a message dated 97-12-30 18:46:51 EST, you write:


tetramethethylgyclorinateoxymolecularisooctkilogigcalorichydrocarbonoxidiheps.
...whew!!!
can't wait to see the responses that post generates....
-Randy- >>

Is that metric?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 21:24:31 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: exhaust\headers

Me again... JC Whitney just sent me a note saying that my order for
Dynomax headers can't be filled. Since I am wanting to put on the single
3" pipes on the 83 351 Windsor, do any of you have any types of headers
that I should look into?
Thanks
Casey

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 01:51:58 EST
From: Lehmandp
Subject: Re: Intermittent Wiper Switch

In a message dated 97-12-26 22:40:32 EST, you write:....


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