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Date: Mon, 29 Dec 1997 03:50:28 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #283
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, December 29 1997 Volume 01 : Number 283



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Power steering pumps.(explorer) [IamGoode ]
RE: 1997 F250 Transmission Noise Problems [Steven McCullough
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #282 [Cerveza6 ]
exhaust ["Casey Vandor" ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #282 [Bill Funk ]
Re: exhaust [Bill Funk ]
Re: voltage spikes? [Bill Funk ]
Re: 1997 F250 Transmission Noise Problems [John Turner
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #282 ["R. Carson" ]
Firing order [Shadorite ]
Exhaust Systems ["Leo Mosley" ]
Re: Firing order [bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)]
Re: check engine light on? [bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)]
Re: Are you a hi-tech redneck? [rockinghorse webtv.net (Randall Goolsby)]
Re: exhaust [george cummings ]
Re: Firing order [Shadorite ]
Re: Firing Order [bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)]

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Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 12:07:14 EST
From: IamGoode
Subject: Power steering pumps.(explorer)

Anyone have a power steering pump that spits fluid through the little vent
hole in the cap? it does it worst at super high and low speeds and works fine
in between... Sean

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 12:02:23 -0800
From: Steven McCullough
Subject: RE: 1997 F250 Transmission Noise Problems

I have had an almost identical problem with a 90 F150/302/AOD - as for the
annoying hum at about 1800 RPM - I have not figured it out, but I suspect
the torque convertor. As for the shudder during shifting, I have heard
that ford lockup convertors have a problem with shudder in the torque
convertor lockup clutch. Apperently they are designed to lockup in gears
other than just 4th, but 4th is where it is usually most noticeable. Mine
does this and it's getting worse - sounds like I've run over some of those
rumble strips that they put on toll roads when the covertor trys to lock
up. You may try chaning the fluid/filter, that seems to help things for a
while.


Anyone know how expensive a replacement lockup torque convertor is? How
hard is it to replace it? I've seen some for around $100-$200 - does seem
reasonable?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 13:24:28 EST
From: Cerveza6
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #282

In a message dated 97-12-28 06:02:38 EST, you write:

>
Disconnecting the battery will not cause any problems. You should disconnect
the negative terminal first, then the positive. You have to disconnect them
to
replace the battery. This is also the proper way to reset the computer.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 09:56:09 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: exhaust

> Right now I currently have two 2" pipes on my 83 351 Windsor. The pipes
> and mufflers are completely shot. I need to put a new system in, but I am
> unsure what type to use. Napa says stock exhaust is a single
> 2 1/4" pipe. Should I get the stock setup or should I have a single 3"
> installed since that is pretty close to the size I have now? With the
two
> 2" pipes, it runs fine, so I was thinking that putting a single 2 1/4"
pipe
> would not be a good idea....?
>


> Also, if you are interested in even more torque, install a
>balance tube between the dual exhaust close behind the headers (or
>manifolds) and make it the same size diameter as the rest of the dual
>exhaust.

Is a balance tube just a pipe intertied in the two to get rid of a pressure
difference? Also, if I get the dual exhaust, they are going to be on one
side of the truck only, not both, (both pipes one side, not one on each) so
would I still be able to use a balance tube?
Thanks for the reply!
Casey

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 13:51:00 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #282

> From: "R. Carson"
> Subject: Re: check engine light on?
>
> I was advised by a local parts retailer to never unplug the batter as
> this
> can permanetly trash the memory modules with voltage spikes etc. Any
> one
> heard of this recommendation?
>
> Ron Carson

That's genuinely difficult to do with a battery, if the engine's not
running.
Otherwise, how do you replace a dead battery, according to this guy?

Bill Funk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 14:00:03 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: exhaust

> From: "Casey Vandor"
> Subject: exhaust
>
> Right now I currently have two 2" pipes on my 83 351 Windsor. The
> pipes
> and mufflers are completely shot. I need to put a new system in, but I
> am
> unsure what type to use. Napa says stock exhaust is a single
> 2 1/4" pipe. Should I get the stock setup or should I have a single
> 3"
> installed since that is pretty close to the size I have now? With the
> two
> 2" pipes, it runs fine, so I was thinking that putting a single 2 1/4"
> pipe
> would not be a good idea....?
>
> Casey

Well, the math says:
the area of a circle is pi*(r*r) where pi=3.14159 and r= diameter/2.
The areas then are:
2" pipe - 3.14sq. in.
2 1/4" pipe - 3.94 sq. in.
3" pipe - 7.068 sq. in.

So, two of either the 2" or 2 1/4" pipes are better than one 3" pipe,
but a single 2 1/4" pipe isn't anywhere as good as a 3" pipe.
If cost is a great factor, I'd go for the single 3" pipe. Best bang for
the buck.

Bill Funk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 14:08:33 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: voltage spikes?

> From: Randy
> Subject: Re: check engine light on?
>
> R. Carson wrote:
> >
> > I was advised by a local parts retailer to never unplug the batter
> as this
> > can permanetly trash the memory modules with voltage spikes etc.
> Any one
> > heard of this recommendation?
> >
> > Ron Carson
> >
> Hey batter, batter.....swing!!! Just kiddin' Ron, I know I've had my
> share of typos. Anyway, I was thinking about your comment. What do
> the
> guys at the battery shop do? I mean, if Sears is changing my battery,
> I
> don't want them messing up my modules. I don't have an answer, but if
>
> what you heard is true, then I too am wondering about it.
>
> Randy

Hmmm...
Let me expand a little on my last post on this, as there's obviously
some concern over this.
A battery can't give a "voltage spike" over it's capacity. In other
words, a 12v battery (actually, about 13.5v fully charged) can't provide
more than 13.5v to a circuit.
The problem is, if there's an arc, the applied *power* (wattage) into
the circuit may go way high, but that's not as bad as it sounds.
Wattage is made up of voltage times amperage. In this example, for the
power to go up, the amperage must rise, as the voltage can't. This poses
no problems to the modules on board, however, since they only suck up as
much amperage as they need, regardless of how much is offered to them
(unlike batteries, which will suck up as much amperage as you offer
them).
In other words, there's no real problem with disconnecting or connecting
your battery.

This does *NOT* apply to jumping your battery from another vehicle,
however. Always observe proper procedures when doing so.

Bill Funk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 15:53:04 -0500
From: John Turner
Subject: Re: 1997 F250 Transmission Noise Problems

The dealer replaced the torque converter in my 1995 e150 302V8, e4Od
transmission They covered the cost under the extended warranty that I bought
with the van. The price on the ticket to the used car department of the dealer
was $870.00 for parts and labor. They also told me that if they have to they
will replace the transmission to get rid of the noise, and I didn't even have
to raise my voice. I am not used to this level of service on a used truck from
a dealer. But then again its not fixed yet. I will let you know how I feel
about it in a week.

John Turner
turner1132 delphi.com

Steven McCullough wrote:

> I have had an almost identical problem with a 90 F150/302/AOD - as for the
> annoying hum at about 1800 RPM - I have not figured it out, but I suspect
> the torque convertor. As for the shudder during shifting, I have heard
> that ford lockup convertors have a problem with shudder in the torque
> convertor lockup clutch. Apperently they are designed to lockup in gears
> other than just 4th, but 4th is where it is usually most noticeable. Mine
> does this and it's getting worse - sounds like I've run over some of those
> rumble strips that they put on toll roads when the covertor trys to lock
> up. You may try chaning the fluid/filter, that seems to help things for a
> while.
>
> Anyone know how expensive a replacement lockup torque convertor is? How
> hard is it to replace it? I've seen some for around $100-$200 - does seem
> reasonable?
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:54:26 -0500
From: "R. Carson"
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #282

In fact I forget to state that the advice to not remove the battery cables
did involve a situation where the engine is running. Sorry for the
omission!!

Ron

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 12/28/97, at 1:51 PM, Bill Funk wrote:

>> From: "R. Carson"
>> Subject: Re: check engine light on?
>>
>> I was advised by a local parts retailer to never unplug the batter as
>> this
>> can permanetly trash the memory modules with voltage spikes etc. Any
>> one
>> heard of this recommendation?
>>
>> Ron Carson
>
>That's genuinely difficult to do with a battery, if the engine's not
>running.
>Otherwise, how do you replace a dead battery, according to this guy?
>
>Bill Funk
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:54:08 EST
From: Shadorite
Subject: Firing order

hey all,
hey i got a 84 F150 and need the firing order for the flugs. If you
know send em to me Thanx all

Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 10:50:18 -0800
From: "Leo Mosley"
Subject: Exhaust Systems

I "snipped" out a bit of Randy's comment re exhaust pipe sizing, where he was
talking about size and torque:

>Keep in mind, a breathing exhaust is a good thing, but one that is too open
>will cause a loss in torque.
>Also, if you are interested in even more torque, install a balance
>tube between the dual exhaust close behind the headers (or manifolds)
>and make it the same size diameter as the rest of the
>dual exhaust.
>Hope this helps,
>Randy

This is very interesting! Randy could I ask why this is the case? I assume it
has to do with back pressure on the engine.
Thanks for the info
Leo
87 F-150, 302

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:54:06 -0600
From: bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)
Subject: Re: Firing order

On Sun, 28 Dec 1997 17:54:08 EST Shadorite writes:
>hey all,
> hey i got a 84 F150 and need the firing order for the flugs. If
>you
>know send em to me Thanx all
>
> Wayne

>-----------------+
>which engine do you have? They have different *lug firing orders.
(sorry, I just couldn't resist)

B Rickman
91 Exp EB 4X4
81 F100 2wd 351w AOD

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 18:14:57 -0600
From: bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)
Subject: Re: check engine light on?

On Sat, 27 Dec 1997 08:45:11 -0500 "Ned" writes:
>Sounds like another "We advise you not to try this at home, just bring
>it
>down to your local friendly dealer and we'll do it for you!" Of
>course
>theres nothing said about the SMALL fee for replacing the battery for
>you.
>
>--------------+>
I would tend to agree. There is a device available just for this
situation. It's an adapter to plug a 9 volt battery into your radar
detector socket (non smoker here) and is advertized to keep all of your
favorite presets on the radio when the battery is disconnected, I suspect
that it would also supply enough voltage to keep the computer from
forgetting who it was. For myself, I would't bother with it unless the
battery gets unhooked often.
I think I last saw this in the J.C. Witney catalog.

B Rickman bmrickman juno.com
91 Exp 4X4 EB
81 F100 2wd 351w AOD

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 16:22:44 -0800
From: rockinghorse webtv.net (Randall Goolsby)
Subject: Re: Are you a hi-tech redneck?

I can't afford a real computer,don't trust the d*%n things,anyhow.So I
got this here WEB TV thingamabob.I'm sittin here typing to you in my 30'
trailer,with my 2 Ford trucks sittin right outside.S'pose I'd qualify?
Ford truck content:onea them 2 outside's worth more than my house is!
Randy 94 Bronco EB 85 F-250 4X4
92 Mallard 30footer

















------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 21:04:35 -0600
From: george cummings
Subject: Re: exhaust

Bill Funk wrote:
>
> > From: "Casey Vandor"
> > Subject: exhaust
> >
> > Right now I currently have two 2" pipes on my 83 351 Windsor. The
> > pipes
> > and mufflers are completely shot. I need to put a new system in, but I
> > am
> > unsure what type to use. Napa says stock exhaust is a single
> > 2 1/4" pipe. Should I get the stock setup or should I have a single
> > 3"
> > installed since that is pretty close to the size I have now? With the
> > two
> > 2" pipes, it runs fine, so I was thinking that putting a single 2 1/4"
> > pipe
> > would not be a good idea....?
> >
> > Casey
>
> Well, the math says:
> the area of a circle is pi*(r*r) where pi=3.14159 and r= diameter/2.
> The areas then are:
> 2" pipe - 3.14sq. in.
> 2 1/4" pipe - 3.94 sq. in.
> 3" pipe - 7.068 sq. in.
>
> So, two of either the 2" or 2 1/4" pipes are better than one 3" pipe,
> but a single 2 1/4" pipe isn't anywhere as good as a 3" pipe.
> If cost is a great factor, I'd go for the single 3" pipe. Best bang for
> the buck.
>
> Bill Funk
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+




WHAT THE HELL???? Look 3" pipe is better when you are running alot of
horse power. If you have a stock motor the best set-up the 2" or 2 1/4".
Casey said it best, if you want alittle bit more torque, then add an
h-pipe right after the header or manifold. You didn't specify if you had
a stock or high performance engine. And Mr. Funk, I still don't know
where you go off saying that higher octane burns slower, letting more
fuel in the cylinder. You oviously didn't study chemistry when you went
to school. I asked my chemistry teacher the same question, and he
replied that it doesn't make sense that higher octane burns slower, so
answer this, if you say that higher octane burns slower, then wouldn't
that mean that the engine would perform poorly?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 22:00:39 EST
From: Shadorite
Subject: Re: Firing order

Sorry But I accidently erased the reply to my Firing Order request before I
got to read it. Please repost!! Thanx

Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 22:55:52 -0600
From: bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)
Subject: Re: Firing Order

Sorry But I accidently erased the reply to my Firing Order request before....


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