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Date: Sun, 28 Dec 1997 03:50:25 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #282
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fordtrucks80up-digest Sunday, December 28 1997 Volume 01 : Number 282



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: F150 oil press gage? ["Roy Preston" ]
Re: Fwd: Are you a hightech redneck? ["The Lublin Family"
Re: check engine light on? ["R. Carson" ]
5.8 Fan Blades? [peakbzsrvc juno.com (Mike Mueller)]
exhaust ["Casey Vandor" ]
Re: Fwd: Are you a hightech redneck? [Randy ]
Re: check engine light on? [Randy ]
Re: check engine light on? ["Ulysses Samilo" ]
Re: 5.8 Fan Blades? [Randy ]
Re: check engine light on? [YIASCA ]
Re: check engine light on? ["Ned" ]
Re: exhaust [Randy ]
Re: 5.8 Fan Blades? ["Ryan Penner" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 09:45:15 -0500
From: "Roy Preston"
Subject: Re: F150 oil press gage?

Dave;

I actually installed a full set of gages in my "85" F-150, in the dash
plate. The area to the right and left of the recessed panel is open behind
and can be reinforced with some 1/8" plexi-glass. Using an adjustable hole
saw, I cut holes for the gages to set into and then slid a small piece of
plexi - pre cut on the backside before placing the lock clamps on. These
have been on for 6 months and no rattles or noise from the gages. The only
problem I did encounter was disconnecting the original temperature probe -
dah!
These are linked into the sensor system which controls idle in cold state,
no problem - just reconnected and actually run with two temp sensors.

- ----------
> From: yhtlines surfari.net
> To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Subject: F150 oil press gage?
> Date: Tuesday, December 23, 1997 3:46 PM
>
> Has anyone installed an oil pressure gage in an 88 or so F150 with a 302?
> Any thoughts on what you ran into? (the factory dash mounted gage is not
a
> gage at all, and is either zero or 'norm', switched off the oil pressure
> light sensor).
> thanks, Dave Lampert
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 09:57:26 -0500
From: "The Lublin Family"
Subject: Re: Fwd: Are you a hightech redneck?

Howdy Randy and the rest of Ya'al!

I really liked that forward that Randy sent to the list. I guess I can really identify with it since I myself am a redneck. Do
we have any other rednecks on the list? Here is something that Randy forgot to put in his message: FORD stands for: For Only
Redneck Drivers. Yes it is true, my computer is worth more than all my vehicles combined. Well I gotta run to the corner store
and get me some chaw. Ya'al have a good day now.

Chris "Lube" Lublin
81 Ford F-150- all rednecked out with the camo paint job, cb, big mudders(2wd) wooden front bumper and rebel tag nailed to that.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 11:31:52 -0500
From: "R. Carson"
Subject: Re: check engine light on?

I was advised by a local parts retailer to never unplug the batter as this
can permanetly trash the memory modules with voltage spikes etc. Any one
heard of this recommendation?

Ron Carson

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 12/27/97, at 12:17 AM, Randy wrote:

>YIASCA wrote:
>>
>> mine truck is a 96 ford ranger splash,
>>
>> i just unplugged the postive battery cable for 10 minutes then
reconnected the
>> cable, that resets the computer. Works great, and no problems yet.
>>
>> got that info from a ford dealer
>>
>> Dave
>
>Pretty good info, I wonder what the dealer charges people (or used to,
>anyway) for that repair? 8-)
>
>Randy
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 14:39:49 EST
From: peakbzsrvc juno.com (Mike Mueller)
Subject: 5.8 Fan Blades?

Hello all and good cheer!
I just got done replacing the water pump on my 89 F150 XLT S-Cab, 4x4,
(with a clutch fan) (Oh, and it's black with peeling paint that the
factory said it would cover the cost of but I would have to pay for the
bodywork, but that's a different story...) and have a question...
My fan has 5 blades, but they are not equally spaced. The Manual
(Haynes) shows this as well. 3 of the blades are closer together than the
other two.
How can this be in balance?
At first I thought there must be an inbalance in the fan clutch to offset
this but it does not show any markings that would give it away. The
manual mentions nothing about this as well.
Any thoughts or ideas?
And just one more thing, why did Ford have the top of my radiator
sharpened to a razor's edge, knowing full well I would have to scrape my
forearms over it again and again. I love pain but this is too much!
Thanks!

Mike Mueller - Account Manager
Peak Business Services
Equipment Leasing and Funding Programs
Office (510) 274-1720 Fax (510) 944-0782
What can we do for you today?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 13:04:47 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: exhaust

Right now I currently have two 2" pipes on my 83 351 Windsor. The pipes
and mufflers are completely shot. I need to put a new system in, but I am
unsure what type to use. Napa says stock exhaust is a single
2 1/4" pipe. Should I get the stock setup or should I have a single 3"
installed since that is pretty close to the size I have now? With the two
2" pipes, it runs fine, so I was thinking that putting a single 2 1/4" pipe
would not be a good idea....?
Casey

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 21:13:43 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Fwd: Are you a hightech redneck?

The Lublin Family wrote:
>
> Howdy Randy and the rest of Ya'al!
>
> Chris "Lube" Lublin
> 81 Ford F-150- all rednecked out with the camo paint job, cb, big mudders(2wd) wooden front bumper and rebel tag nailed to that.
>
Glad y'all liked the forward. (rednecks hate when you call one person
y'all, hehehe). oops, I snipped out your Ford acronym, but my all-time
favorite is:
Flip Over Read Directions.

Later,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 21:17:06 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: check engine light on?

R. Carson wrote:
>
> I was advised by a local parts retailer to never unplug the batter as this
> can permanetly trash the memory modules with voltage spikes etc. Any one
> heard of this recommendation?
>
> Ron Carson
>
Hey batter, batter.....swing!!! Just kiddin' Ron, I know I've had my
share of typos. Anyway, I was thinking about your comment. What do the
guys at the battery shop do? I mean, if Sears is changing my battery, I
don't want them messing up my modules. I don't have an answer, but if
what you heard is true, then I too am wondering about it.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 17:16:33 -0800
From: "Ulysses Samilo"
Subject: Re: check engine light on?

Ulysses Samilo
Yes,

I have heard of this recommendation and it is true that this can occur. I
would not say never do it though. Sometimes all you can do is unplug and
then plug it back in. I would definitely say not to do it often. Most of
these memory module circuits are buffered and have Electro Static Discharge
(ESD) diodes in them that can discharge voltages within the 2000 volt
range. That doesn't mean that it can catch them all. Sometimes you can
get a spike right after another before the ESD diodes have time to recover
and WHAM! there goes your module. So I would definitely only do it when
all other avenues have been exhausted and you don't want to take it to the
dealer.

Ulysses Samilo
High Speed Logic Design Engineer
Email: (wk) ulyssess amcc.com
(hm) usamilo1 san.rr.com
WWW: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.san.rr.com/ulysses

- ----------
> From: R. Carson
> To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Subject: Re: check engine light on?
> Date: Saturday, December 27, 1997 8:31 AM
>
> I was advised by a local parts retailer to never unplug the batter as
this
> can permanetly trash the memory modules with voltage spikes etc. Any one
> heard of this recommendation?
>
> Ron Carson
>
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 21:29:13 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: 5.8 Fan Blades?

Mike Mueller wrote:
>
> Hello all and good cheer!
> I just got done replacing the water pump on my 89 F150 XLT S-Cab, 4x4,
> (with a clutch fan) (Oh, and it's black with peeling paint that the
> factory said it would cover the cost of but I would have to pay for the
> bodywork, but that's a different story...) and have a question...
> My fan has 5 blades, but they are not equally spaced. The Manual
> (Haynes) shows this as well. 3 of the blades are closer together than the
> other two.
> How can this be in balance?
> At first I thought there must be an inbalance in the fan clutch to offset
> this but it does not show any markings that would give it away. The
> manual mentions nothing about this as well.
> Any thoughts or ideas?

Mike, this is a very common thing among mfgs. This question came up a
couple of weeks ago and I just happened to find an archived copy of one
of the replies:

> The reason why I am worried about this is because the flex fan
> is
> >really odd looking. It has 5 blades but they are spaced almost at random
> >around the fan. I am thinking that this does something to balance the...[snip]
>
> Actually, the blades and their center carrier are integrally balanced. The
> odd spacing of the blades simply prevents weird harmonic noises that are
> produced by evenly spaced blades (like airplane propellers). Almost all
> OEM-type metal fans are designed this way.
- -----
> And just one more thing, why did Ford have the top of my radiator
> sharpened to a razor's edge, knowing full well I would have to scrape my
> forearms over it again and again. I love pain but this is too much!
> Thanks!

LOL, agreed! In fact aren't there two sharp edges up there? They must
have stolen a design patent from Gilette on how to cut closer w/twin
blade action. I'm afraid to lean down on mine!!

Later,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 20:32:58 EST
From: YIASCA
Subject: Re: check engine light on?

In a message dated 97-12-27 20:16:59 EST, you write:


guys at the battery shop do? I mean, if Sears is changing my battery, I
don't want them messing up my modules. >>


Well never heard of not being able to remove battery? Thats screwed, how do
you change the battery after it expires? Also they might say never to remove
battery connections thinking that you might ground the positive battery
connection to the frame with a wrench whileremoving the terminal nut on
battery. Hell most people don't even know how to charge a battery let alone
remove it.?? Works every time for me and no $$$

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 08:45:11 -0500
From: "Ned"
Subject: Re: check engine light on?

Sounds like another "We advise you not to try this at home, just bring it
down to your local friendly dealer and we'll do it for you!" Of course
theres nothing said about the SMALL fee for replacing the battery for you.


- -----Original Message-----
From: YIASCA
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Saturday, December 27, 1997 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: check engine light on?


>In a message dated 97-12-27 20:16:59 EST, you write:
>
>
> guys at the battery shop do? I mean, if Sears is changing my battery, I
> don't want them messing up my modules. >>
>
>
>Well never heard of not being able to remove battery? Thats screwed, how
do
>you change the battery after it expires? Also they might say never to
remove
>battery connections thinking that you might ground the positive battery
>connection to the frame with a wrench whileremoving the terminal nut on
>battery. Hell most people don't even know how to charge a battery let
alone
>remove it.?? Works every time for me and no $$$
>
>Dave
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 22:00:03 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: exhaust

Casey Vandor wrote:
>
> Right now I currently have two 2" pipes on my 83 351 Windsor. The pipes
> and mufflers are completely shot. I need to put a new system in, but I am
> unsure what type to use. Napa says stock exhaust is a single
> 2 1/4" pipe. Should I get the stock setup or should I have a single 3"
> installed since that is pretty close to the size I have now? With the two
> 2" pipes, it runs fine, so I was thinking that putting a single 2 1/4" pipe
> would not be a good idea....?
> Casey

Casey, it looks like you want to run a single pipe? If you stay w/the
dual set-up a 2 1/4" dia. would be ideal, if you go any bigger, you will
gain hp, but you will loose torque, which is a little more important
(this is all considering the motor is stock or close to it). The 2" are
a little on the small side, but if you like the way the truck runs....
Basically what I'm saying is that keeping w/the dual exhaust would be
ideal. Maybe time or money is an issue here, so let's consider the
single exhaust. My '87 F-250HD 4x4 has the 351W H.O. and has a 2 1/4"
single pipe exhaust. I must say that this is a little TOO restrictive
although the truck runs great. I would like to step up to dual 2 1/4".
A 3" diameter pipe has slightly MORE volume carrying capacity than TWO
2" pipes (7.07 sq. in. compared to 6.28 sq . in., respectively) as you
eluded to earlier. A 2 1/2" pipe is 4.91 sq. in. and 2 1/4" is 3.98
s.i. (almost 8.0 on duals). What does all this mean? If you go to only
one pipe, go w/the 3", you will get more flow and moderate increases in
hp and torque since it will increase your flow over what you have now
w/the dual set-up! If you stay w/the dual set-up I would recommend dual
2 1/4", not too restrictive, not too open. Btw, the area given for the
pipes is for comparison of the different size pipes only. Just figure
the area of the diameter on any pipe to help you when choosing what size
pipe to use when changing your exhaust. Keep in mind, a breathing
exhaust is a good thing, but one that is too open will cause a loss in
torque. Also, if you are interested in even more torque, install a
balance tube between the dual exhaust close behind the headers (or
manifolds) and make it the same size diameter as the rest of the dual
exhaust.

Hope this helps,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 22:19:59 -0700
From: "Ryan Penner"
Subject: Re: 5.8 Fan Blades?

>> And just one more thing, why did Ford have the top of my radiator
>> sharpened to a razor's edge, knowing full well I would have to scrape my
>> forearms over it again and again. I love pain but this is too much!....

---

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