Return-Path:
Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 03:50:25 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #256
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, December 9 1997 Volume 01 : Number 256



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
fordtrucks80up-digest-request listservice.net
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: engine break-in [Bill Funk ]
87 Ranger bed ruined [yhtlines surfari.net]
Re: Question for the Lightning owners [silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)]
Re: engine break-in [Chad Royse ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #254 [John Pensko ]
WTB service manual, '85 E350 [William Martin ]
Re: Tire Chains [Bob Scola ]
Re: Tire Chains [Craig Atkisson ]
Re: Question for the Lightning owners [Bob ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #255 [Randy ]
A/C Comp Noise ["M.Monninger" ]
F-250/350 4X4 [rmp utxvms.cc.utexas.edu (Richard Petty)]
Re: CD changer [Midwest96 ]
A couple of questions... [Mobleaudio ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #254 [Midwest96 ]
Re: engine break-in [Dave Armbruster ]
Re: F-250/350 4X4 ["Thomas O. Malmevik" ]
Re: A couple of questions... ["Thomas O. Malmevik"

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 06:13:31 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: engine break-in

> From: Danny Gaudenti
> Subject: engine break-in
>
> What is the best way to break-in a new engine? I'm asking because we
> have
> a '98 F150 on order (scheduled delivery: "week of 12-7-97") and I want
> to
> treat it right for the beginning of it's life. I don't mind a little
> inconvenience at first if it will be good for the life of the engine.
>
> I looked at an owner's manual at the dealer and it just says "vary
> engine
> speed". The owner's manual for the car the F150 is replacing (which I
>
> didn't buy new) says: Drive moderately during the first 300 miles.
> After
> 50 miles, speeds up to 50 or 60 MPH are desirable. While cruising,
> brief
> full-throttle accelerations contribute to a good break-in. My wife's
> '85
> Camry owner's manual: Do not drive over 55 MPH. Maintain engine
> speed
> between 2000 and 4000 RPM. Avoid full-throttle starts. Do not drive
> slowly in high gear. Vary engine speed. Do not tow.
>
> Does any of the above apply to the truck? Am I being too cautious?
> Should
> I just drive it and not worry about a formal break-in?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Dan

Dan,
Breaking in an engine is as important today as it ever was, it's just
not as hard.
If you understand what happens during the break-in, you'll find it a lot
easier to understand how to do it.
When an enfine is new, there are various machining marks left on the
metal. Where this has the most effect is in the cylinders, where the
rings meet the cylinder wall. In a normal, running engine, this is one
of the very few places that there's actually metal-to-metal contact.
During break-in, the ring faces (the part of the rings that contact the
cylinder wall) must conform to the cylinder wall to do their jobs. The
compression ring must seal properly, or compression drops, and the oil
rings must control the oil on the cylinder wall, or excessive oil
burning will result.
To do the conforming, the ring faces must get hot enough to *almost*
melt, becoming plastic, then be oil-quenched to cool them, and perform a
hardening function. To heat the ring faces, you need to accellerate; to
cool the rings, you decellerate. The accelleration forces oil off the
fing faces and heats the rings up, while the decelleration pulls extra
oil up past the rings by the extra vacuum in the cylinder, cooling the
rings. The cylinder has honing marks (cross-hatching) to allow oil to
coat the cylinder wall even after the oil rings are fully broken in.
(All of our engines burn oil, or they'd burn up.)
When is the break-in period done? Watch the gas mileage - when it goes
up, it's just about soup. Compression is going up a little, and friction
goes down, making the mileage go up.
So, during break-in, you want to vary the speed, accellerate often, then
decellerate, and stay off the cruise control. Long trips should wait
until the engine's about broken in, because the tendancey there is to
travel at one speed, which is bad for the rings. If you treat the engine
too gently, the rings will harden without conforming, and the oil rings
won't do their jobs right; the engine will smoke. (Ever see thise new
cars that smoke? Their drivers almost always complain that they drove
extra gentle during break-in, and the car's a piece of junk. Ha!)
(Although, it does happen that the ring set is faulty, and never seats
right, even if the break-in was done right.)
Hope this helps.
Bill Funk

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 05:38:54
From: yhtlines surfari.net
Subject: 87 Ranger bed ruined

Remeber, this model went much longer than thru 87, so later beds are
available for your truck. I would have a body shop handle all of it, and
something to be seriously concerned with, is frame tweaking, since it was
hit on a corner. These ladder frames with parallel rails can be turned into
parallelograms very easily. But that can be repaired very easily by an hour
on a frame machine, or even a farmer with a come-a-long and a good hammer.
Sorry for the wreck, these are usually very traumatic experiences.
Dave Lampert

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 10:21:17 EST
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
Subject: Re: Question for the Lightning owners

On Sun, 07 Dec 1997 21:18:06 -0500 Ken Payne
writes:
>Somebody on one of the newsgroups claims the Lightning has
>a Thunderbird rear-end. I find this hard to believe. But
>never having crawled under one (or paid much attention to
>the axle when I behind one) I need the facts from some
>owners.

I think the t-bird has an 8" rear end. I thought the Lighting had a
bigger one(?)



silent.bob juno.com
95 Ranger 2.3L, SVO OHC
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordManTed.com (Mustang Site)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 11:53:25 -0800
From: Chad Royse
Subject: Re: engine break-in

Be careful of the advise you are getting. Ask your local Ford dealership. I
know, to my suprise, that the last two new ford trucks I bought offered no
break-in advise except for the brakes. I don't want to start a flame war so
I'll just say, ask a qualified mechanic, because I think there is some bad
advice "out there".

Danny Gaudenti wrote:

> What is the best way to break-in a new engine? I'm asking because we have
> a '98 F150 on order (scheduled delivery: "week of 12-7-97") and I want to
> treat it right for the beginning of it's life. I don't mind a little
> inconvenience at first if it will be good for the life of the engine.
>
> I looked at an owner's manual at the dealer and it just says "vary engine
> speed". The owner's manual for the car the F150 is replacing (which I
> didn't buy new) says: Drive moderately during the first 300 miles. After
> 50 miles, speeds up to 50 or 60 MPH are desirable. While cruising, brief
> full-throttle accelerations contribute to a good break-in. My wife's '85
> Camry owner's manual: Do not drive over 55 MPH. Maintain engine speed
> between 2000 and 4000 RPM. Avoid full-throttle starts. Do not drive
> slowly in high gear. Vary engine speed. Do not tow.
>
> Does any of the above apply to the truck? Am I being too cautious? Should
> I just drive it and not worry about a formal break-in?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Dan
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+



- --
Chad

_________________________________________________________________

Pursuant to US Code Title 47, Ch.5, Sub-ch.II, Sect.227(a)(2)(B), a
computer/modem meet the definition of a telephone fax machine. Pursuant
to Sect.227(b)(1)(C), it is unlawful to send any unsolicited
advertisement to such equipment, punishable by action to recover actual
monetary loss or $500, whichever is greater, for each violation. Any
unsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a fee
in the amount of $500US per occurance. E-mailing denotes acceptance of
these terms.
_________________________________________________________________

!! O I would rather be...
\O/ _O _O #=\ ___ __ _ _
__#__\#_\#____H_ \ | _ \__ _ / _| |_(_)_ _ __ _
_ ( : \ \ : )(\ | / _` | _| _| | ' \/ _` |
//~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|_|_\__,_|_| \__|_|_||_\__, |~~~~~
|| |___/

New River - 1995, 1996, 1997
Fall Gauley - 1997 x-StRe M!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 09:37:32 -0800
From: John Pensko
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #254

I want to install some fog lights on the front of my 93 Ranger. What is
the best way to get wiring into the Cab?

I found two connectors behind my head lights (one behind each). Are
these for fog lights. Would I just have to insert the fuse in the power
distro box. I can't find a good wiring diagram that show these
connectors.

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 09:46:40 -0800
From: William Martin
Subject: WTB service manual, '85 E350

Hi,
Anyone have a service manual for an '85 E350 they would like to
sell? I really need one, like right now...

thanks,
Bill Martin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 14:46:13 -0800
From: Bob Scola
Subject: Re: Tire Chains

Here in the Seattle area, do to a combination of hills & *solar powered
snow removal* chains on dry pavement are quite common. Here it
snows, melts a-little, then freezes hard and stays that way until the
rains come back or the ice gets worn off. It's not very
good on the chains, since you see 'em dead all over the road. As far
as illegal, not here. In fact they chain-up the public buses if snow is
forcasted for the next day. I didn't say it was good on roads, chains or
tires; but it is common to see here.
BTW- Its amazing to see the number of Honda Accords & Toyota
Camry's with chains on the rear wheels, *trying* to get up ice
covered hills.

Bob
- ------------------------
>Right after the "blizzard of '97" when the snow had mostly melted off the
>main streets, I saw and heard the worst thing I have ever heard. I saw a
>van with chains on driving on a paved road! Tell me that is not good for
>either the road or your tires!
>
>Ryan
>Littleton, CO

>Might not be all that hard on tires (not good for them though), but bad for
>the roads for sure. Probably illegal, too.
>Dave

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 15:22:45 -0800
From: Craig Atkisson
Subject: Re: Tire Chains

Yea it was quite ammusing watching metro buses get up 200th in north
seattle last winter....and all the idoits around here that have fwd
couldn't get around either...with or without chains, your better off
staying home:)

Craig
Seattle,WA


At 02:46 PM 12/8/97 -0800, you wrote:
>Here in the Seattle area, do to a combination of hills & *solar powered
>snow removal* chains on dry pavement are quite common. Here it
>snows, melts a-little, then freezes hard and stays that way until the
>rains come back or the ice gets worn off. It's not very
>good on the chains, since you see 'em dead all over the road. As far
>as illegal, not here. In fact they chain-up the public buses if snow is
>forcasted for the next day. I didn't say it was good on roads, chains or
>tires; but it is common to see here.
>BTW- Its amazing to see the number of Honda Accords & Toyota
>Camry's with chains on the rear wheels, *trying* to get up ice
>covered hills.
>
>Bob
>------------------------
>>Right after the "blizzard of '97" when the snow had mostly melted off the
>>main streets, I saw and heard the worst thing I have ever heard. I saw a
>>van with chains on driving on a paved road! Tell me that is not good for
>>either the road or your tires!
>>
>>Ryan
>>Littleton, CO
>
>>Might not be all that hard on tires (not good for them though), but bad for
>>the roads for sure. Probably illegal, too.
>>Dave
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 16:05:02 -0800
From: Bob
Subject: Re: Question for the Lightning owners

Silent . Bob wrote:

> On Sun, 07 Dec 1997 21:18:06 -0500 Ken Payne
> writes:
> >Somebody on one of the newsgroups claims the Lightning has
> >a Thunderbird rear-end. I find this hard to believe. But
> >never having crawled under one (or paid much attention to
> >the axle when I behind one) I need the facts from some
> >owners.
>
> I think the t-bird has an 8" rear end. I thought the Lighting had a
> bigger one(?)
>
> silent.bob juno.com
> 95 Ranger 2.3L, SVO OHC
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site)
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordManTed.com (Mustang Site)
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

Yes, It's an 8.8" rear.

Bob in Santa Rosa
'94 Crimson Lightning #767


- --

*** The ocean washes away all cares
It holds at bay things life ensnares
It gives us peace into the heart
And brings good things till we depart ***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 20:26:37 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #255

***********
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 14:16:34 -0500
> From: Nathan Heid
> Subject: 87 Ranger bed ruined
>
> Has anyone else had to make similiar repairs? What kind of cost estimites
> can I expect? What should I look out for? Used parts????
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 19:01:35 EST
> From: johnmck juno.com (John R. McKee)
> Subject: AM Radio Interference
>
> I have a 97 F-150 with AM/FM cassette stereo. I get a lot of "noise"
> interference on the AM band down near the low end of the scale around 550
> AM. It only happens when I press the brake pedal or use the turn signal.
> Questions:
> 1. Does this happen to any of you?
> 2. Is this normal?
> 3. Is there anything which can correct it other than not listening to
> 550 AM?
>
> I haven't gone to the dealer yet. I wanted to wait until I heard from
> all you out in Ford Land.
>
> TIA, John
>
John, it sounds like a noise suppressor may help. Is the 'noise' engine
RPM sensitive? In other words, w/the turn signal on and the truck in
neutral, does the noise vary with engine speed (not road speed)? I'm
sure you don't know yet, but go out and give it a try. If it is, then
it's a pretty common problem, but usually with aftermarket, high-end
stereos/amps pulling alot of amperage from the alternator. The noise
suppressor can be purchased at your local Radio Shack, and while they're
inexpensive ($7-$15, at least check), the problem is you will have to
cut into the factory wiring to install it (not all the wires, but the
power wires to the stereo). Yeah, I wouldn't wanna jump into that
myself on a new truck. I'm always wiring stuff into my trucks or cars,
but they're all older. If you determine this to be the problem, I would
check and see if someone, by chance, carries a noise suppressor that can
be installed into the factory wiring harness where it plugs into the
stereo. I honestly doubt there to be such a product, but it can't hurt
to check. Sources I would try would be the local dealership (maybe they
have an option on the factory high-end units) or Crutchfield
(crutchfield.com). Hope ya get that taken care of.

- -Randy
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 22:02:49 -0500
> From: Michael Ruth
> Subject: need 302 5.0 parts
>
> Hi!
> My fathers 1993 F-150 (75k) took a turn for the worse yesterday. All of
> a sudden it had a loud knocking, lost oil pressure and started shaking
> then it sounded like the inside of the engine started self destructing.
> Obviously he shut it off right away. He is very religous about oil
> changing, so I know it's not from bad oil sludging up the pump. Has
> anyone had this happen? Tomorrow we will pull filter and pan to
> investigate, but it's not locked up because it will restart but sound
> really bad. I need to know if there are any resonable place to get a
> block and necessary parts if the worse is there. How about Ford R and
> P? Any ideas???? Thanks! You may respond off list to:
> xplorit erols.com
>
> Mike
>
> P.S. I am in Baltimore, Maryland
>
Mike, not sure what the problem is w/o seeing/hearing it myself, but it
sure isn't good, whatever it is. You are going about it the right way,
though, I would also cut the filter open and see if you can find any
metal shavings in it. How many miles are on it? Unless you have fluids
leaking from the engine, the block is probably usable. If you find out
that a rebuild is in order, visually and carefully inspect all the parts
you can; block, heads, crank, connecting rods, pistons. Look for any
cracks or any deteriorated metal (if you find metal in pan or filter, it
came from somewhere, [could be the bearings]). I would guess that your
dad has owned this truck since new. If so, he knows best what that
engine has been thru and could have peace of mind rebuilding it using as
many of it's own parts as possible. Do you know of a reputable machine
shop in your area? Once disassembled (or you can pay them to do it,
too) have them magnaflux all the major parts; block, heads, crank (this
will tell you if any of them have cracks you can't see). If you have
the time and money (not too expensive), have them do it the right way
(especially if miles are up there). Stuff like, valve job, boring
cylinders (you can hone them, instead, if money's tight [you'd need
bigger pistons], but you're better off boring slightly bigger
(.020-.030). Now, I'm not talking about building a racing machine
there, so don't spend money on stuff like polishing the crank journals
(if you have an emery cloth you can do this yourself anyway) or a timing
gear set. I would just build it to run smoothly and dependably for the
next decade. New parts for that engine are many, so you shouldn't have
any trouble getting any parts you may need to replace. Try Summit
(summit.com) or Jeg's (jegs.com) for any engine parts you need. They
both specialize in racing parts, but have OEM replacement parts for
trucks, too. I could go on and on, but that'll probably do ya for now.
If you have anymore q's Mike, you can e-mail me directly
runawaykid ncweb.com

- -Randy
**********

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 21:06:54 -0700
From: "M.Monninger"
Subject: A/C Comp Noise

The A/C compressor on my 93 Ranger (3.0L) really sounds bad. Best I can
describe it, it sounds like a diesel engine running when the it's
engaged. It works just fine, tho (I live in Phoenix where we needed A/C
until last week :-). I really don't know much about the mechanics of the
A/C system but would like to know what to expect when I take in. Any
ides what could be causing the noise? Bearings? Clutch (only makes noise
when comp is running, tho)? Low freon?

Any suggestions/advice/guesses will be appreciated.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 22:23:33 -0600
From: rmp utxvms.cc.utexas.edu (Richard Petty)
Subject: F-250/350 4X4

Hello,
I'm looking for a new truck to haul a slide-in camper. The camper weighs
apx. 2000 lbs. wet and count on an additional 1000 lbs. of folks and gear.
We will be going to fairly remote sites for camping and stargazing. Not
intending to do any radical four-wheeling, but would like to be able to get
around in mud/snow/sand. The truck will be driven on the highway for long
distances and then into the boonies.
I have been checking out the F-250/350 series. The powerstroke diesel
appears to be a good option. I've spoken with a few owners, no one has
anything bad to say about mileage or performance. Before I saddle up to
this kind of money, I'd like to hear from anyone who has experience with
these trucks.
I would appreciate any coments/advice.

Thanks,

Richard

Richard M. Petty
Construction Inspector The Journey is the Destination
University of Texas System

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 23:39:52 EST
From: Midwest96
Subject: Re: CD changer

Ok, the Clarion guys are going to jump me for this, but... I would recommed
using pioneer CD changers, I think they're just as good *and* its much easier
to swap out changers between home and car. I use the same magazine in my home
stero, as in the car, so I don't have to fiddle with discs, but just swap out
the magazines. $.015

Craig (Midwest96 aol.com)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 23:47:41 EST
From: Mobleaudio
Subject: A couple of questions...

Hey gang, I have a few mind benders for you all. First, my 86 f/s Bronco, 300
i-6, auto, has a strange turn signal problem. With the headlights off, the
turn signals work fine, with the headlights on, the left turn signal doesnt
blink, but the right one does. With the lights off, the hazard flashers work
fine, with them on, the rear hazards 'wig-wag', or flash from side to side
like a police car does, but only in the back with the lights on. I checked
all of the bulbs, and they're all good.

Second, is it possible to put a lift shackle on a f/s Bronco rear leaf spring
since the shackle points up stock?

Third, can I do head work and a mild cam in my 88 f/s Bronco with the speed
density system and still make power without screwing up the EEC-IV. What
brand headers do you suggest, cam, ignition, etc.?

Thanks for all of your info

Mobleaudio aol.com
Leslie Zettler
88 f/s Bronco xlt 302 f.i auto 4"Rancho with 33's (soon to be 350 hp 351w f.i
with 6" Skyjacker and 36's) Blood Sweat, and Gears
87 f/s Bronco xlt 302f.i. AOD, 32's with 9" w/4.11(and 3.55 front diff.:-(
)Frankenbronk
86 f/s Bronco 300 auto stock Timex(takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin')
86 Trans Am mild custom Red Devil or simply The Beast
78 Caprice (parts car)
77 Impala (street sleeper project)
69 Camaro (in boxes)


It's only money....and it was MADE to spend!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 23:52:45 EST
From: Midwest96
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #254

In a message dated 97-12-08 17:45:06 EST, you write:


these for fog lights. Would I just have to insert the fuse in the power
distro box. I can't find a good wiring diagram that show these
connectors.

Thanks >>

Can't help you about the headlights, but there should be an access panel undr
the floor on the passenger side, just behid the firewall. It is a rubber
square about 5x5 inches, and wiring can be pushed through it, and sealed with
silicone (sp?). It will appear in the cab, just under the front edge of the
carpet. Don't know about no carpet, have yet to work in a ranger with no
carpet. Anyone...

Craig (Midwest96 aol.com)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 22:49:45 -0700
From: Dave Armbruster
Subject: Re: engine break-in

>What is the best way to break-in a new engine? I'm asking because we have
>a '98 F150 on order (scheduled delivery: "week of 12-7-97") and I want to
>treat it right for the beginning of it's life. I don't mind a little
>inconvenience at first if it will be good for the life of the engine.
>
>I looked at an owner's manual at the dealer and it just says "vary engine
>speed". The owner's manual for the car the F150 is replacing (which I
>didn't buy new) says: Drive moderately during the first 300 miles. After
>50 miles, speeds up to 50 or 60 MPH are desirable. While cruising, brief
>full-throttle accelerations contribute to a good break-in. My wife's '85
>Camry owner's manual: Do not drive over 55 MPH. Maintain engine speed
>between 2000 and 4000 RPM. Avoid full-throttle starts. Do not drive
>slowly in high gear. Vary engine speed. Do not tow.
>
>Does any of the above apply to the truck? Am I being too cautious? Should
>I just drive it and not worry about a formal break-in?
>
>Thanks for any help,
>
>Dan

When I broke mine in, I followed this basic schedule: Varied speed in 5
mph increments for the first 1,000 miles. Changed the oil, to Quaker State
5W-30. Drove moderately to 5,000. Changed oil again. Drove and followed
regular 3,000 mile oil changes up to 20,000 miles. Changed to Mobil One
5W-30 full synthetic, and have followed regular 3,000 oil changes.

Am I over-changing oil: yup, fer sure. But, I figure I took the thing with
8 miles on the clock, and I would like to see it with just 8 miles on the
odometer again. It isn't often that you have the ultimate power to
determine the life of an engine. The owners manual only recommends 5,000
mile changes, using standard grade oil, but I just feel that unless you are
very easy on an engine (and I DO have a truck for a reason...), that is
just too long.

Dave
'97 Ranger 4.0L, 5 spd auto, 32K miles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 00:11:47 -0800
From: "Thomas O. Malmevik"
Subject: Re: F-250/350 4X4

Richard Petty wrote........

>I'm looking for a new truck to haul a slide-in camper. The camper weighs
>apx. 2000 lbs. wet and count on an additional 1000 lbs. of folks and gear.
>We will be going to fairly remote sites for camping and stargazing. Not
>intending to do any radical four-wheeling, but would like to be able to get
>around in mud/snow/sand. The truck will be driven on the highway for long
>distances and then into the boonies.
>I have been checking out the F-250/350 series.

i have a 93 F350....not a power stroke, but it is a 4x4.......4door
model....lifted
with 33X12.50X16.5 traction tires.......i use it to haul a 27 foot 5th wheel
and for off roading....works very well for both...highly recommend
them.....only truck ill own at this time......good luck with yours

*********************************************************************
* .......Ride Free or Die.....the Mumbles...............................*
* tmalmevik sprynet.com malmevik u.washington.edu *
* 82 XJ650RJ Seca..........daily cruiser..............................*
* 77 XS750 2D Triple...1000cc bored project bike............*
* 93 F350......96 27 5L Nash.....camping combo................*
* .............just an old longhaired hippie freak, man.............*
* ...............riding and camping clean and sober................*
* ......we can do together that which we cant do alone.....*
* ....Charter Life Member Good Sam Club #34099689.......*
* ............Charter Member R-Char 00002..RV Club............*
**********************************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 00:13:49 -0800
From: "Thomas O. Malmevik"
Subject: Re: A couple of questions...

leslie wrote......
- -



>Hey gang, I have a few mind benders for you all. First, my 86 f/s Bronco,
300
>i-6, auto, has a strange turn signal problem. With the headlights off, the
>turn signals work fine, with the headlights on, the left turn signal doesnt
>blink, but the right one does. With the lights off, the hazard flashers
work
>fine, with them on, the rear hazards 'wig-wag', or flash from side to side
>like a police car does, but only in the back with the lights on. I checked
>all of the bulbs, and they're all good.
>


check for a short in the wire to the left blinker....sounds like thats your....

---

To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.