fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, November 18 1997 Volume 01 : Number 225
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 17:16:16 -0800
From: Ron Pike
Subject: Ranger Speaker Box Std Cab
Has anyone made a 5 sided box or bought a Q-Logic speaker box for the
standard cab Ranger? If so what size 10" 12" how does it sound? Likes,
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 20:29:28 -0700
From: Bob Fiddes
Subject: Re: 1991 F-150 4WD Pulling Problem
Woops, that way I said "I think" I wasn't sure. Sorry
At 10:56 AM 11/17/97 -0500, you wrote:
>In a message dated 97-11-17 06:11:35 EST, you write:
> Subject: Re: 1991 F-150 4WD Pulling Problem
> Alignment and/or tie rods will both give you this problem. I think it is
> the chamber that usually causes the wheel not to return to center.
>Caster is what makes the wheels return to center
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You might consider taking your truck into a spray in bedliner place and
have them remove seat and flooring and have them spray the floor. My friend
did this with his jeep wrangler. Cut down on road noise/non slip easy to
clean/don't have to worry about water lying under it causing rust. just a
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 20:37:49 -0700
From: Bob Fiddes
Subject: 2.3 to 2.9 swap
I have an 88 Ranger with a worn out 2.3 and 5 speed. It is a 2 wheel
drive. I am curious if the 2.9 will drop in without modifications. If
not, what would it take to put a 2.9 in place of the 2.3?
Any help, answers and/or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Yeah, you should have enough room for the 33's. Are you going suspension or
body lift? If you want tires, I have a set of each for sale.
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 23:46:34 -0500 (EST)
From: FSTFORDS aol.com
Subject: Re: DISC-BRAKES ON EXPLORER...
DISC-BRAKES OFF OF AN EARLIER T-BIRD WITH ABS AND AN 8.8 SHOULD BE DIRECT
FIT.SAME BRACKETS AND SIMILAR BRAKE LINES AT EXTREMELY LOWER COST. COME ON
GUY THERE'S A LOT OF INTERCHANGE OUT THINK ABOUT THE POSSIBILITIES...
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 1997 23:09:40 -0600
From: fwise juno.com
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem
On 17 Nov, John Steger wrote:
>My clutch ran dry the other day (yes, shame on me ). I have looked for a
bleed valve and found it on the tranny. I bled >the line and now I have
NO pedal at all.
Saw your post on the Ford Trucks Mailing List, and I thought I'd share my
experience with you. You didn't mention what type of truck you have, but
your story sounds like what happened to my Ranger. On the Ranger, the
clutch master cylinder has the outlet port at the bottom of the cylinder
(actually, the outlet is on the end of the cylinder, but Ford installed
it so that the outlet end is lower than the clutch pushrod end. Dumb
move). This is a horrible design, because the air in the cylinder rises
to the top and cannot be expelled through the line, no matter how much
you pump the clutch in an attempt to bleed it. What you have to do is
remove the cylinder and do what the Ford shop manual calls a "bench bleed
To accomplish this, you also have to disconnect the line from the
transmission and remove the entire thing, master cylinder, remote
reservoir, line to the trans and all, from the truck. Ford sells a
special tool to remove the line from the transmission, but you can remove
it by using a screwdriver to shove the white (on my truck and also on the
89 Ranger I had) plastic sleeve on the end fitting into the fixture
(toward the transmission). After you get it pushed in, you then (while
still pushing the sleeve in) pull outward on the line and it (should)
come loose. Don't worry about getting air into the slave cylinder, as
there is a "dry break" connection on the end of the line and also on the
>From there the shop manual reads as follows for my 94 Ranger. It may
differ if you have a different truck, but the basic procedure should be
1. Start with the tube and reservoir attached to clutch master cylinder,
but system removed from vehicle. Lightly clamp reservoir in a vise.
2. Hold the clutch master cylinder vertically with the reservoir feed
hose in the highest position on the body.
3. Fill reservoir and extend above master cylinder and make sure the
quick connect on clutch line is below the clutch master cylinder.
4. Using a small screwdriver, depress the internal mechanism of the male
quick disconnect coupling to open the valve. (For what it's worth, it is
handy to have either an assistant or three hands.)
5. Stroke and hold master cylinder push rod.
6. Close quick disconnect valve.
7. Release master cylinder push rod.
8. Fill reservoir.
9. Repeat steps 4-8 four more times.
10. With the clutch master cylinder still being held with the outlet tube
and reservoir feed tube ends high, quick connect closed and the reservoir
full, push the push rod into the body several times quickly to expel any
remaining air. (If remote reservoir, pinch supply hose with fingers two
or three times to help move air into reservoir (John, I had to do this
more than two or three times to move all the air)
11. When the movement of the push rod is 4mm (.160 inch) or less when
stroked in step 10 above, the master cylinder may be reinstalled into the
vehicle and coupled to the concentric clutch slave cylinder.
The toughest part about the whole job is the removal and reinstallation
of the master cylinder. The thing is held on by two bolts from the
firewall side, which go into two captive nuts on the interior side. On my
truck, one of the captive nuts came loose from its "captivity," and I
finally had to resort to vise-grips to hold it. It was a real pain.
Again, this is how you do it for a Ranger, but it sounds like the only
thing that will get you going again is a bench bleeding of the master
cylinder. Hope this helps.....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
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