fordtrucks80up-digest Saturday, November 8 1997 Volume 01 : Number 210
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
In this issue:
Re: The mighty 300 Six. ["Dave Resch"]
AOD Shift pattern [abbott ]
Re: AOD Shift pattern [Don Vanco ]
90 Ranger, wet carpets too [bhood sunset.net (Bruce Hood)]
Re: 4WD Lubrication ["Dave Resch"]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #209 [Bill Funk ]
Re: Rocking [Bill Funk ]
Re: Turn Signals [Bill Funk ]
PCV Filter [ILuvTruks aol.com]
Bronco II water [ILuvTruks aol.com]
fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #209 ["Bill A'Hearn" ]
Re: What do you think of the window stickers? [Ken Payne
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #209 [mrkrispy webtv.net (Ian Holter)]
Re: Rocking [mrkrispy webtv.net (Ian Holter)]
Re: 90 Ranger, wet carpets too ["R. Carson" ]
Ranger Nerf Bars [jsruss postoffice.worldnet.att.net]
Homemade cold air [Luke Wells ]
Re: chugging truck... [FSTFORDS aol.com]
Re: tire size Bronco II [FSTFORDS aol.com]
Re: GREASING front bearings on a 250 4x4? [Ken Miller
grill guards [Allan Goldarbit ]
Re: 300 sounds like a diesel [jwshouse juno.com (James W Shouse)]
Aisin 1 BBL Carb.--'87 Ranger [Nathan Heid ]
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:53:29 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: The mighty 300 Six.
>much snippage to remove irrelevant info
>power & economy tend to be somewhat diametrically
>opposed.... If you find 300HP with 35 miles to the gallon
> be sure to tell us how you did it!
YES... Cow Magnets!!!
>From what I can tell the AOD has a pattern of P/R/N/OD/D/1. What about 2nd?
Is there no second gear lock-out? Only first, third, and Forth.
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 17:06:09 -0500
From: Don Vanco
Subject: Re: AOD Shift pattern
At 02:01 PM 11/7/97 -0800, you wrote:
>>From what I can tell the AOD has a pattern of P/R/N/OD/D/1. What about 2nd?
>Is there no second gear lock-out? Only first, third, and Forth.
Manually shifting the OAD is a treat! You start in first, slam it into OD
to get second, back to D for 3rd (if you're really good), and then finally
to OD again - to finally catch up to the guy you were racing......
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 14:13:37 -0800 (PST)
From: bhood sunset.net (Bruce Hood)
Subject: 90 Ranger, wet carpets too
Heavy Fall downpour yesterday, truck parked on moderate slope with
downslope on the passenger side.. Enter truck to drive home... and
a strange gurgling of water, seemingly trapped in the trough under
the air intakes just in front of the windshield, and as I drive of
about 2 quarts of water dump onto the passenger side floor rug.
In traffic, couldn't stop to check where it was coming from... but
the gurgling stops and it seems that the remainder of the water some
how escaped elsewhere. My guess would be a plugged drain in the
cowl vent trough... but will still have to check it out.. have not
spotted just where it was coming from... any suggestions for curing
this appreciated.. thanks,
Bruce Hood, Instructor of Speech
Butte College, Chico California
National Chmn. Clan Fraser Society
e-mail bhood sunset.net
>From: David Hertzberg
>Subject: Re: 4WD Lubrication
>dave r: excellent--just the information i was looking for.
>one last question: i read somewhere in an earlier post
>(perhaps one of yours) that using synthetic gear oil in the
>rear transaxle was adviseable--what about the front
>transaxle?? any thoughts?? thanks, david
The term "transaxle" usually refers to a combined (in a single case)
transmission and differential gear (axle) assembly. Perhaps you are
referring to differentials?
Here's what I know: Eaton, Dana/Spicer, Fuller, and other manufacturers of
heavy truck application gearboxes (transmissions, differentials, etc.)
almost unanimously recommend synthetic lubricants in gearboxes to reduce
operating friction and improve fuel economy in large trucks.
I would speculate that in a pickup truck, operating friction would account
for a lot less power loss (inefficiency) than in the gearboxes on a large
truck, but there might still be some efficiency to be gained w/ synthetic
lubes. Since gear lube is changed a lot less often than engine oil, the
additional cost of the synthetic gear lube would be spread over a lot more
miles and the (probably minimal) improvement in fuel efficiency would be
easier to justify than any improvements you could attribute to synthetic
Additionally, I would look carefully at the service literature supplied by
the manufacturer of your truck's gearboxes (Ford, Warner, ZF, New
Process/New Venture, whoever) to find out what they recommend. I would
probably not risk using a synthetic lube if the manufacturer specifically
recommended against it in a particular application.
Except for the special lubrication requirements of some traction aid device
(such as a limited slip or locking differential), if the front and rear
differentials are of the same type, I can think of no reason that the same
gear lube couldn't be used in both front and rear differentials.
In general, I would go for synthetic gear lube before I would go for
synthetic engine oil, but either way, I would only buy products with the
appropriate API certification for their intended purpose.
Dave R. (M-block devotee)
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 15:37:55 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #209
> From: Thom Cheney
> Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #208
> Bill Funk wrote:
> > The new ('99 & up) Diesels will have a new system of starting; the
> > alternator will be spun by one of these small engines, and the
> > alternator output will replace one of the two batteries now needed
> > start the engine, allowing Ford to save the weight and cost of that
> > second battery and associated electronics for isolation and seperate
> > charging of the two batteries, as the small engine is much lighter
> > the battery.
> As I understand it, Ford has been having trouble getting this system
> to work. Since these small drive motors are 2 stroke, meeting
> emission standards with them has been tough. Even though the motor is
> small, the catalytic converter needed to weed out the harmful gasses
> is quite large. also there is the added expense of running a second
> tank for the nitro-methane that powers these engines.
> I think it must be the second explanation ;)
> Thom Cheney
Damn! Do you mean to say that my brother-in-law's wife's hairdresser's
husband's landlord's uncle's friend who knows a guy who works at the sub
shop right next to the Ford dealership in Splitlip, Utah got his
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 15:42:51 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: Rocking
> From: Midwest96 aol.com
> Subject: Rocking
> I have a '96F150 Shortbox, no performance mods (yet), but do have
> When I'm driving between MM170 - 178 on 96 in Detroit, the truck
> rocking up and down like I was going over mini hills. It gets bad
> that I often start getting car sick (which I never have before
> anywhere). It
> doesn't matter what speed or direction (East or West) I drive, I have
> problem. No one else around me seems to have this problem either.
I'll take a WAG here and say the road surface is concrete, and that your
truck's suspension is tuned exactly to the frequency of the slab breaks
on the road. This is a common problem with trucks (autos have softer
suspensions with better damping). Solutions range from changing shocks
to changing trucks.
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 15:51:54 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: Turn Signals
> >A friend and I were fooling around with the flasher modules and
> noticed that
> >if there is no draw on the end of the circuit, they wouldn't work.
> We wnet
> >out and pulled the interior indicaters lights, and sure enough, the
> >signals didn't work. I'm not sure if that could be the case, but
> >another question:
> >Why won't the signals work without draw on the end of the ciruit?
> Not sure - but if I were to guess it would be that this is a "feature"
> you can't pull current without a load. Lot's of PC power supplies are
> this - perhaps FoMoCo has designed something similar into the fuse
> Perhaps this has something to do with voltage regulation (the need for
> load, that is).. Any EE's out there???
I'm not an EE, but I don't have to be...The flashers are no more than
relays with a thermal strip as an interuptor to the coil current. As the
thermal strip (a bi-metal strip, which bends as the current going
through it heats it up) bends, it breaks the circuit to the coil,
releasing the arm that completes the circuit to the bulbs. When that
thermal strip quits working,the flasher won't flash. It can fail in two
modes: open, meaning no lights at all, or closed, which means lights but
no flashing. The usual failure mode is closed (the contacts fuse
together), meaning the lights won't flash, but will come on.
*USUALLY* if no lights come on, it means the associated fuse is burnt
out, but not always.
As for the load... yes, the thermal strip is calibrated to handle a
certain load. If one bulb on a side burns out, the flasher usually won't
flash (not enough current to heat the strip), while simply adding the
trailer turn signals will make the lights flash very rapidly, because
the strip is getting too much current, and heating too quickly.
This problem is solved with electronic flashers (the ones that cost $20
or so). They use a capacitor timer instead of a thermal strip to time
the flashes, so extra lights can be added to the circuit.
Guess what. There is no pcv filter, just the valve on the valve cover(pass.
side). I'm assuming you have the 2.9L(177) engine. If you have the 2.8, I
can't help you. I'm rebuilding my 86 Bronco II, and there isn't a filter
anywhere. Hope I could help.
Here's a question I asked before but still haven't found the answer to:
Where is the PCV filter/Air breather located on an 88 Bronco II/Ranger? (I
have the Bronco II). I have been given various places to look, but can't
find it. The in store manuals list the part, but I can't find where it
goes! A relative has an 87 ranger, and he suggested the air filter box...
as have others. The spot that he described does seem to exist, but there
is no way that a part could fit in there. It looks kinda like this:
Anyone know the answer to my problem? Is it possible that there is no
part for my specific vehicle?
Thanks in advance,
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 19:17:56 -0500 (EST)
From: ILuvTruks aol.com
Subject: Bronco II water
On my BII, I also have discovered the little triangle things inside the
fender wells. I don't see anything that would indicate they are for stopping
water, If something like that worked, I could shove a bunch of grocery bags
in the fender....but I don't think it would work. Maybe it's for sound
dampening, or to keep things getting kicked up by the tires from getting in
the door jam, etc. Just a few ideas.
I also have some water problems. I have one leak in the back ceiling trim
panel, and another on the drivers side trim panel by the handle. I think
there must be a pinhole leak in the gutter from rust, and the rear is coming
in thru the hatch mounts or wiper sprayer, but I'm not sure. If I put the
cargo cover on, and it rains for a while, there is a GIANT puddle on the
cover, looks like one of our Chicago potholes in a rainstorm. The drivers
side one just has a real annoying constant drip....drip...drip onto the seat,
carpet, and on the door's map pouch. Not to much fun driving with one wet
arm, or leg for that matter.
I don't quite think I totally understand your problem, though. Does it come
in if you are driving, or also if the car is just sitting. If it's only
during driving, you may have actual rustout under the carpet. I noticed on
mine, that even though the car is virtually(and soon to be completely) rust
free, there is significant rust on the underbody....especially directly under
the drivers seat and floor. Let me know some more about your problems with
the BII. Maybe I've fixed it on mine, and vice-versa.
Question: Does anyone out there have an 88 Bronco II/Ranger that gets
water on the floor? I have found two triangular pieces of "plastic bag"
type material, with a gauzy type of material inside, located under the
hood, behind the firewall/fender. Weird! I've never seen anything like
this before, and I suspect it was meant to deflect the water around a joint
somehow. I have noticed some water coming in by the door seal on the
driver side.. under the moulding where it joins... (just below dash
height). Is this my main problem, or the other I mentioned? I have
already removed, silconed and re-installed the door seals. Is it possible
it's still getting through here? I don't see how.
All I know is I'm sick of having wet carpets.. and winter is coming....
Criag. it's probabley because of the short wheelbase of your truck and
the great michigan road surface, it's hard to get a smooth ride from a
short wheelbase. Ian
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 20:46:45 -0500
From: "R. Carson"
Subject: Re: 90 Ranger, wet carpets too
I had the same problem but the dealer was able to locate the source. It
took them several tries but they finally isolated the problem to were the
the quarter panel and hood area come together. Good luck finding the leak
yourself. I never could find mine.
Ron, 98 Ranger 4X2, Flareside and Extended Cab
PS There are companies which specalize in finding leaks.
*********** REPLY PARTITION ***********
On 11/7/97, at 2:13 PM, bhood sunset.net wrote:
>Heavy Fall downpour yesterday, truck parked on moderate slope with
>downslope on the passenger side.. Enter truck to drive home... and
>a strange gurgling of water, seemingly trapped in the trough under
>the air intakes just in front of the windshield, and as I drive of
>about 2 quarts of water dump onto the passenger side floor rug.
>In traffic, couldn't stop to check where it was coming from... but
>the gurgling stops and it seems that the remainder of the water some
>how escaped elsewhere. My guess would be a plugged drain in the
>cowl vent trough... but will still have to check it out.. have not
>spotted just where it was coming from... any suggestions for curing
>this appreciated.. thanks,
>Bruce Hood, Instructor of Speech
>Butte College, Chico California
>National Chmn. Clan Fraser Society
>e-mail bhood sunset.net
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
Does anyone know of or have nerf bars that mount close to the body of
a 96 Ranger 4x4 . I'm looking to protect the rocker panels off-road .
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 21:31:01 -0500
From: Luke Wells
Subject: Homemade cold air
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://iel.ucdavis.edu/people/wong/howto.html here is a page for a rice
burner, but has instructions
on how to make a homemade cold air induction unit, grill, and tail light
colors. Found it while I was
surfin check it out.
IF THE PROBLEM OCCURS CONSISTENLY AT THE SAME THROTTLE POSITION I WOULD
SUGGEST CHECKING THE THROTTLE POSTITION SENSOR. A BREAK IN THE WINDINGS OF
THE POTENTIOMETER WOULD CAUSE A LEAN MISFIRE. TOUGH TO DIAGNOSE
SOMETIMES............ ALSO HEAT RELATED COULD BE AN IGNITION MODULE. FOOD FOR
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 22:52:40 -0500 (EST)
From: FSTFORDS aol.com
Subject: Re: tire size Bronco II
235/75/15 PRETTY MUCH IT W/O SUSP. MODS
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 20:52:19
From: Ken Miller
Subject: Re: GREASING front bearings on a 250 4x4?
>How difficult is it to pull apart the front wheel bearings to grease
>on a 250 4x4 with automatic lockouts? Anyone have any experience with
>it? Special tools needed. I had a 78 ch*vy 4x4 and it required a
>special tool that was more expensive than having someone do the job
>for me! Thanks in advance!
It is not the difficult at all, as long as you have the "right socket" or
special tool to remove the retaining nut that secures the bearings. You
are right though, they can be expensive. I also recommend that if you have
the front hub torn apart down to the spindles to repack bearings, take the
spindle off and repack the needle bearings inside the spindle for the drive
shaft. This if often over looked, and if you do a lot of 4x4'ing or have a
lot of miles in 4x4, chances are those need to be repacked also.
Ken Miller &Personal: KRMiller Vegas.Infi.Net
Kim FossWork: KMiller ci.Las-Vegas.NV.US
650 Whitney Ranch #3213W (707)229-4709 H(702)458-6529
Henderson, NV 89014Fax (702) 474-7463
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 23:15:56 -0500
From: Allan Goldarbit
Subject: grill guards
Just bought a grill guard for my 97 ranger and it mounts to the frame of
the truck rather than the bumper. Anyone out there have any opinion as
to which is better, or safer?
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 1997 08:58:15 -0600
From: jwshouse juno.com (James W Shouse)
Subject: Re: 300 sounds like a diesel
Most likely the reason for this is that the valve lifter clearance is set
too loose - ie, too much clearance. This is better than being too close.
We always used to say clatter means longer life.
Jim in San Antonio
jwshouse Juno.com jwshouse wans.net
The RV Club #R-CHAR-00092 Newmar Owners' Club #5777
1995 Dodge Ram 2500HD Club cab V10
1995 Newmar Kountry Aire 5th-wheel triple-slide
Does anyone know anything about the Aisin 1 bbl carburator used on the 2.0
liter 1987 Ranger? After a series of non-starting incidents the local Ford
dealer shop decided my carb was at fault. The mechanic would not or could....To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User
Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here
If you are already registered, you can login here.
If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session
cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.