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Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:46:47 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #202
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, November 3 1997 Volume 01 : Number 202



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: f250 diesel occassional cranking problems...... ["Patrick Vanderlind"]
Front add-a-leafs [dean etgn14.webo.dg.com (Baruffi)]
Re: Buncha Ranger Questions [Don Vanco ]
Re: Front add-a-leafs ["Froggy" ]
A few more general questions... [Don Vanco ]
Re: A few more general questions... [Don Vanco ]
96 Ranger Bumper [jsruss postoffice.worldnet.att.net]
Re: 91 Explorer ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Re: f250 diesel occassional cranking problems...... [alanh galaxy.nsc.com]
Re: 89 Bronco 4x4 front end question [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENN]
Please help decode VIN # [William Martin (Temp) ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #199 ["David J. Baldwin" ]
4WD Lubrication ["Gene E. Utterback, EA, ATA, ATP" ]
Re: f250 diesel occassional cranking problems...... [David Hertzberg
RE: Diesel oil pressure [David Hertzberg ]
Re: f250 diesel occassional cranking problems...... [William Martin (Temp]
Re: 4WD Lubrication ["Froggy" ]
RE: Diesel oil pressure [Don Vanco ]
Factory Fog Lights on '97 Ranger ["Bryce T. Beyler" ]
Re: Factory Fog Lights on '97 Ranger ["Bob Leifer" ]
too much [BigDogF250 aol.com]
Online EEC-V Information? [onbelay bit-net.com (Mark Schneider)]
Re: Please help decode VIN # [PhilDyson aol.com]
Re: Online EEC-V Information? [Don Vanco ]
Borla exhaust for Ranger FS [Don Vanco ]
Re: 4WD Lubrication [PhilDyson aol.com]
headers ["Casey Vandor" ]
Re: headers [Don Vanco ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 06:59:22 -6000
From: "Patrick Vanderlind"
Subject: Re: f250 diesel occassional cranking problems......

> After the wait to start light goes out on my 1987 f250, I can crank the
> engine and it starts but, after the amps start to come up sometimes the
> engine sputters then dies. Restarting takes at least 7-10 minutes. Ford
> shop techs say that it was an unauthorized air add (whatever that is) when
> I first bought it used,but, when the warranty ran out, it started doing it
> again. This is a very intermittant problem with no other common symptoms.
> The glow plugs are fine. It doesn't matter if its cold or warm, but never
> happens on an already warm engine. Frequency of incidence of this goes
> down if I agitate the accelerator vigorously prior to starting. It still
> happens though.
>

I had an '89 that did the same thing. It turns out that the injector
pump was loosing prime. (Air in the lines. I think this is what
they mean by unauthorized. air add.) In my case, my driveway is on a hill
and if the front of the truck was facing down hill, it ALWAYS
started. If I faced up hill, gravity took its toll and it did what
you are saying. I can not tell you how to fix it since I sold it and
bought by '93 before I fixed it. I always wondered if the fuel filter
was being siphoned. I was going to take off the filter after leaving
the truck parked facing uphill and see. GOOD LUCK.

Patrick Vanderlind
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
'93 F250 xcab XLT 4x4 red/red Diesel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 07:34:04 -0500
From: dean etgn14.webo.dg.com (Baruffi)
Subject: Front add-a-leafs

I own a 1997 F250 HD 4x4 460 5sp. and I want the get the front end level with the
back. The front sita about 2" to 3" lower than the rear. Has anyone done this with a
set of add-a-leafs? is this the easiest way the make the front level with the back?

There seems to be more than enough u-bolt threads to accommodate another leaf in the pack.

Thanks for the info.

1997 F-250HD 4x4 Super cab, short bed, 460/5-spd :

Mods: K&N air filter, synthetic fluid (front/rear diff,
transmission, transfer case, engine), drain plug on
rear diff cover, Clutch interlock disabled,
Radio Shack CB (callsign: Cool-Aid).

Dean Baruffi mailto: dean etgn14.webo.dg.com
Holland, MA. Work: 508-898-7369



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 08:50:33 -0500
From: Don Vanco
Subject: Re: Buncha Ranger Questions

At 01:36 AM 11/3/97 -0500, SNOOP22222 aol.com wrote:
>5) Exhaust and headers for a 2.3l (is it worth it, is it possible to find
>this)
This engine has been around since the Pinto - there are a ton of places
that have headers for this particular configuration..

>6) Where do you get some manuals so you can do stuff yourself
You Ford dealer will have an order form for any manual you might need...

YMMV
Don

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 09:11:44 -0500
From: "Froggy"
Subject: Re: Front add-a-leafs

Baruffi, I'm not sure about your truck but the rangers have what is called
a "load leveler" package specifically designed to even up the front-rear.
Most aftermarket suspension companies carry this product.....froggy

- ----------
> From: Baruffi
> To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Subject: Front add-a-leafs
> Date: Monday, November 03, 1997 7:34 AM
>
> I own a 1997 F250 HD 4x4 460 5sp. and I want the get the front end level
with the
> back. The front sita about 2" to 3" lower than the rear. Has anyone
done this with a
> set of add-a-leafs? is this the easiest way the make the front level
with the back?
>
> There seems to be more than enough u-bolt threads to accommodate another
leaf in the pack.
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> 1997 F-250HD 4x4 Super cab, short bed, 460/5-spd :
>
> Mods: K&N air filter, synthetic fluid (front/rear diff,
> transmission, transfer case, engine), drain plug on
> rear diff cover, Clutch interlock disabled,
> Radio Shack CB (callsign: Cool-Aid).
>
> Dean Baruffi mailto: dean etgn14.webo.dg.com
> Holland, MA. Work: 508-898-7369
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 10:12:06 -0500
From: Don Vanco
Subject: A few more general questions...

I've got a few more general questions. These are pointed mostly towards
the 98 Rangers - but I'm sure they apply to older models as well....

1) Are the 5 speeds in the 4.0 V-6 models the Borg-Warner T-5 of
Mustang/Camaro fame? i.e. - can you attach a decent aftermarket shifter &
lose the "18 wheeler" stick?

2)Are the 4.0 V-6's based on the the 3.8 liter from the T-Bird/Mustang?
i.e. - will it be possible to bolt on an SVO/Eaton supercharger?
- if "yes" - are there decent aftermarket sources for intakes, cames,
valves, etc?

3)In a vehicle equipped with 3.55's does 5th gear on the aforementioned 5
speed tranny seem more like a really neat idea that a useable gear? With
3.73's? My Mustang w/3.27's had no use for 5th whereas my SVO with 3.73's
loves it....

4) Has anyone ditched the factory seats in favor of some true sport
buckets? Anyone added the center console "after the fact"? Just wondering
if the cost justifies the result - the stock seats don't look too bad, but
a decent set of buckets really changes the interior (see the "Boss Ranger"
at Summit Racing...)

I've narrowed my next purchase to 2 vehicles, I'd like to decide this week...
Dong

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 10:18:40 -0500
From: Don Vanco
Subject: Re: A few more general questions...

At 10:12 AM 11/3/97 -0500, Don Vanco wrote:
>Dong

Ooooops! Little Freudian slip there......
Don (the "G" is silent - like the "P" in swimming...)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:54:23 +0000
From: jsruss postoffice.worldnet.att.net
Subject: 96 Ranger Bumper

Hello,
I have a new chrome Ranger bumper for sale if any one needs one ?
I am asking $180 OBO+shipping from N.C.

Jimmy Russ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 10:28:04 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: 91 Explorer

Bob Fiddes wrote:
>
> I have a voltage gauge that doesn't remain stable. It flutters whether at
> an idle or running down the road. I have changed the alternator, cleaned
> the grounds and posts, changed batteries and all to no avail. The lights
> flutter at the same rate as the gauge does. The alternator has an internal
> regulator. Does anyone have any suggestions what may be causing the
> problem or possible cures.

Probably the instrumentation. Get a handheld voltmeter and check the
voltage if you suspect something seriously wrong. It is unlikely that
you will see the "flutter" with a reliable instrument.

There are contacts in the instrument panel, and they can corrode after
some time. You could remove the unit--which is likely to be a pain--and
clean the contacts. You didn't say how old the unit was, but if it is
older and/or you drive in a corrosive environment, this could be a good
place to look. Really sounds like an intermittent contact.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 08:47:24 -0800
From: alanh galaxy.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
Subject: Re: f250 diesel occassional cranking problems......

In response to a hard-starting diesel report, froggy responds:

> This sounds like it could be a problem with your
> automatic choke. The amps rising is probably coincidence or just an
> indication of the engine temp rise. With the rise in tempurature your choke
> is failing to disengage causing it to flood out. Since it does'nt occur
> with a warm engine, your automatic choke would not be engaged for the
> engine to start. The 7-10 minute wait sounds like you're waiting for the
> fuel to disipate before it will restart. Agitation of the accelerator
> would alter the engine temperature quicker and absorb an excee fuel mixture
> caused by the malfunctioning choke.If there is an air mod you could have an
> incorrect air/fuel mixture but that wouldn't explain the other symptoms

Am I missing something? I don't recall seeing a choke, automatic or
otherwise, on a diesel engine. Diesels do not have any restriction
on air input, other than the air filter, and the snorkel to the outside
world. Engine speed is controlled by injecting fuel, not restricting
air.

And the "amps rising" is hardly due to engine heat, I think. The glow
plugs put a large load on the batteries, in addition to the starter,
but once the engine fires, the alternator is able to replace that
energy, and the voltmeter should climb back to the 14 V range within
seconds, not minutes.

The fact that it starts, then dies, then takes along time to restart,
implies a fuel feed problem. Look for a weak pump, or clogged injectors,
or something else in the fuel delivery system.

- ---

Alan Hepburn | |
National Semiconductor | DON'T TREAD ON ME |
Santa Clara, Ca | |
alanh galaxy.nsc.com | |

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 13:38:30, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: Re: 89 Bronco 4x4 front end question

The sound from the front end is normal. My 1990 Ranger 4x4 did it
all the time when making a slow sharp turn. I thought it was bad, but
I found out it was normal. It is just how the 4x4 system operates.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 10:45:42 -0800 (PST)
From: William Martin (Temp)
Subject: Please help decode VIN #

Hello,
I'm in need of info to decode a Ford E350 VIN #. If anyone can
help, the number is: 1FDHS35L9FHA56719 I would like to know what engine,
rear axle, transmission, etc it has, and if it has a catalytic converter.
Possible???

thanks in advance,
Bill Martin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 13:01:44 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #199

J. Scott Gaines wrote:
>
> When we get one of our regular Florida downpours, I'll sometime turn on the
> 4WD (I have the pushbutton type) just to make sure everything is still
> working properly. I have noticed on a couple of occasions while doing so,
> that if I take a really hard turn, the truck feels like something is
> binding underneath, almost like it's going to pull the tires off the rims
> or something. Is this normal, or do I have some kind of front end problem?

It seems like the drivetrain is binding because it is! In rain,
especially at low speed (when you would be cutting tight corners--like
in a parking garage) you have quite a bit of traction. All four wheels
are trying to turn at different speeds, but they cannot, and the
drivetrain binds.

Is this hard on the drivetrain? You betcha! I blew the front hubs out
of my '90 Ranger when I had them engaged in the snow. I made a turn
onto a freshly plowed street (no snow, but wet), and when the drivetrain
bound, something had to give, and it was the hub. Don't know if they
were the same on Bronco II and Ranger, but I had lots of problems with
them. Recommend going to manuals.

Got stuck in a parking garage once: had a Toyota with 4WD engaged
because of icy roads. Got to work and forgot to disengage 4WD once I
got into the garage, which was dry. Got to the top of the first ramp
and started to turn and the engine stalled! I put the clutch in and the
vehicle didn't roll back--even though I was halfway out of the ramp! I
had to rev the engine and ride the clutch to power out of the
situation. Left a nice black stripe where one tire finally broke
loose. May be why that transmission gave out at 30K miles...or maybe
because it was a Japanese wheezebox.

Bottom line: don't use 4WD unless you really need it--it's designed for
use on slick or compliant surfaces, like ice, snow, gravel, dirt, or the
like. Never on dry pavement.

Note that there are vehicles with "full time 4WD". These have some kind
of compliant coupling between the front and rear drive. Don't know
exactly what kinds there are, maybe differentials or viscous
couplings--hell, maybe rubber bands for all I know. These are designed
with compliance in the drivetrain to make up for times when the road
surface is not. I've never had one, so I can't say how good they are.
Maybe others out there can put in their two cents. I've probably put in
about a dollar--sorry!

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 14:18:49 -0800
From: "Gene E. Utterback, EA, ATA, ATP"
Subject: 4WD Lubrication

I've heard lots of people say that you shouldn't use 4WD unless you need
it, like in snow, ice, sand, mud, etc.

I understand the mechanical principles of why 4WD feels like it's
binding when used on dry pavement. I also understand the differences
between full and part time 4WD systems.

My question is this - Should I engage my 4WD occassionally to let it
lubricate?

I have a 1984 Full Size Bronco, 351M, Auto on the column, 4WD on the
floor.

I also have a 1996 Full Size Bronce, 351, Full electronic auto 4WD
controls.

I usually engage the hubs and 4WD High once a month or so for 5 or 10
miles to keep the system lubed ( like my mechanic told me too ). Now
with what I think I'm hearing here, I'm not sure this is OK.

Devient Gene

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 14:18:30 PST
From: David Hertzberg
Subject: Re: f250 diesel occassional cranking problems......

Indeed, you might be able to solve your problem with some inexpensive fuel
injection cleaner and fuel additive specifically for diesels, made by Stanadyne.


Alan wrote:
>The fact that it starts, then dies, then takes along time to restart,
>implies a fuel feed problem. Look for a weak pump, or clogged injectors,
>or something else in the fuel delivery system.
>
David and Leila Hertzberg
Greystoke Farm
Gaithersburg, Maryland
301-482-0016
ACdhertz us-state.osis.gov


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 97 14:20:24 PST
From: David Hertzberg
Subject: RE: Diesel oil pressure

I bought a preoiler (meant for any gas or diesel engine) from a place called
EngineGuard in Pennsylvania (they are on the internet). The device pressurizes
the engine with oil before you crank the engine. I paid 371 dollars, and installed
it myself in about 3 hours. There is only one brand on the market as far as I can
tell (made by a company in Fla. called Sales Professionals). Is it worth the
money? Who knows... I don;t even know if it makes a difference, know that I've got
it installed, although it certainly cannot hurt. I will tell you that one of the
best things about it is that its easy to disengage electrically and, ultimately,
remove from your engine. There is no invasive tinkering required to get it to work
since it uses your existing oil path. Look up www.enginguard.com and read about it
there. good luck david


>
>I just bought an 88 F250 XLT Supercab 4x4 with the 7.3 diesel and have a
>question about oil pressure. The previous owner put a mechanical oil
>pressure guage in and the oil pressure is anywhere from 40 lbs driving
>speeds to 10lbs at idle. My question is that occasionally at idle the
>engine light comes on once the pressure drops below 15 to 10 lbs.
>Obviously this bugs my and a slight step on the pedal makes the light go
>off. Is this normal? if not what can I do to remedy the problem?=20
>
>Anotehr question, someone mentioned a preoiler system for diesels that (I
>assume) puts oil pressure to the motor before it is started. What do these
>cost? Any brands reccomended or to be avoided? Are they easy to install?
>Are they worth the $$$?=20
>
>I should note the truck has 125K miles with about 50K miles on a factory
>new engine.=20
>
>Thanks!
>
>=2E.Jay=20
>
>=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=
>=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=
>=B0
>=20
> jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
>=20
>=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=
>=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=
>=B0
>=20
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+


David and Leila Hertzberg
Greystoke Farm
Gaithersburg, Maryland
301-482-0016
ACdhertz us-state.osis.gov


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 11:53:56 -0800 (PST)
From: William Martin (Temp)
Subject: Re: f250 diesel occassional cranking problems......

Why not look for the simple solution first? Try a new fuel filter!

W Martin

>
> Indeed, you might be able to solve your problem with some inexpensive fuel
> injection cleaner and fuel additive specifically for diesels, made by Stanadyne.
>
>
> Alan wrote:
> >The fact that it starts, then dies, then takes along time to restart,
> >implies a fuel feed problem. Look for a weak pump, or clogged injectors,
> >or something else in the fuel delivery system.
> >
> David and Leila Hertzberg
> Greystoke Farm
> Gaithersburg, Maryland
> 301-482-0016
> ACdhertz us-state.osis.gov
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 14:29:07 -0500
From: "Froggy"
Subject: Re: 4WD Lubrication

Gene, your mechanic is exactly correct...But make sure you're on a surface
that will allow your tires to slip..ie: dirt, sand, gravel etc. Operating
4wd on a high traction surface WILL cause damage unless you have full time
4wd. And some of those are questionable at best!!...froggy

- ----------
> From: Gene E. Utterback, EA, ATA, ATP
> To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Subject: 4WD Lubrication
> Date: Monday, November 03, 1997 5:18 PM
>
> I've heard lots of people say that you shouldn't use 4WD unless you need
> it, like in snow, ice, sand, mud, etc.
>
> I understand the mechanical principles of why 4WD feels like it's
> binding when used on dry pavement. I also understand the differences
> between full and part time 4WD systems.
>
> My question is this - Should I engage my 4WD occassionally to let it
> lubricate?
>
> I have a 1984 Full Size Bronco, 351M, Auto on the column, 4WD on the
> floor.
>
> I also have a 1996 Full Size Bronce, 351, Full electronic auto 4WD
> controls.
>
> I usually engage the hubs and 4WD High once a month or so for 5 or 10
> miles to keep the system lubed ( like my mechanic told me too ). Now
> with what I think I'm hearing here, I'm not sure this is OK.
>
> Devient Gene
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 17:31:15 -0500
From: Don Vanco
Subject: RE: Diesel oil pressure

At 02:20 PM 11/3/97 PST, David Hertzberg wrote:
>I bought a preoiler (meant for any gas or diesel engine) from a place called
>EngineGuard in Pennsylvania (they are on the internet). The device
pressurizes
>the engine with oil before you crank the engine. I paid 371 dollars, and
installed
>it myself in about 3 hours. There is only one brand on the market as far
as I can
>tell (made by a company in Fla. called Sales Professionals).
If you don't mind having to run a manual cable to actuate a valve Moroso
makes an oil resevoir that will do the same thing - but for about $70.00.
It is not a mechanical pre-oiler, however. It has a pressureized cannister
that holds a quart of oil - when you start the engine the system oil
pressure overcomes that of the canister - and fills it with oil, at which
point you close the valve. On the next start-up you open the valve, wait a
few seconds, and start the engine. This is a race piece, and I'm sure the
effectiveness is based on the point at which you plumb in the cannister &
the viscosity of the oil (if you deal with winter this will be a big issue).
FWIW - this is what I use on my turbo (the larger 3 quart version). But -
if you forget to close the valve before turning off the engine you end up
with all the extra oil in the pan - and that could cause some starting
issues in itself if the crank has to whip through 8 quarts of oil at 15
below 0...
If you're serious - the pump pre-oilers are the best. Summit Racing has
'em for about $300.00 - and they look fairly simple to install. They do
limit overall oil pressure to about 40 psi...
YMMV
Don

> Is it worth the
>money? Who knows... I don;t even know if it makes a difference, know that
I've got
>it installed, although it certainly cannot hurt. I will tell you that one
of the
>best things about it is that its easy to disengage electrically and,
ultimately,
>remove from your engine. There is no invasive tinkering required to get
it to work
>since it uses your existing oil path. Look up www.enginguard.com and read
about it
>there. good luck david
>
>
>>
>>I just bought an 88 F250 XLT Supercab 4x4 with the 7.3 diesel and have a
>>question about oil pressure. The previous owner put a mechanical oil
>>pressure guage in and the oil pressure is anywhere from 40 lbs driving
>>speeds to 10lbs at idle. My question is that occasionally at idle the
>>engine light comes on once the pressure drops below 15 to 10 lbs.
>>Obviously this bugs my and a slight step on the pedal makes the light go
>>off. Is this normal? if not what can I do to remedy the problem?=20
>>
>>Anotehr question, someone mentioned a preoiler system for diesels that (I
>>assume) puts oil pressure to the motor before it is started. What do these
>>cost? Any brands reccomended or to be avoided? Are they easy to install?
>>Are they worth the $$$?=20
>>
>>I should note the truck has 125K miles with about 50K miles on a factory
>>new engine.=20
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>=2E.Jay=20

>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 17:45:45 -0500
From: "Bryce T. Beyler"
Subject: Factory Fog Lights on '97 Ranger

Over the weekend, I cracked the lense on one of my fog lights (the round
ones in the spoiler under the bumper in a 4x4 Ranger)...My local Ford
Dealer wants $155 for one light (bracket, bulb, case and lense) and doesn't
sell just a lense. After cleaning up the lense, I found it had a Hella
Logo on it...the righting on the lens was as follows:

TOP
TN 25
SAEF86

HELLA

02B
(E1)
8379

Anyone know what model that this light is so I can order an aftermarket set
or call Hella directly (they ar local to me)? Any sugestions on other
lights that fit the stock hole and brackets are welcome also...

Thanks,
Bryce

'97 Ranger XLT 4x4 SuperCab

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:10:37 -0500
From: "Bob Leifer"
Subject: Re: Factory Fog Lights on '97 Ranger

Hella has a web site WWW.hella.de you can leave them an Email message
there, and see the US distributor in Georgia.

Bob Leifer


- -----Original Message-----
From: Bryce T. Beyler
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Monday, November 03, 1997 5:45 PM
Subject: Factory Fog Lights on '97 Ranger


>Over the weekend, I cracked the lense on one of my fog lights (the round
>ones in the spoiler under the bumper in a 4x4 Ranger)...My local Ford
>Dealer wants $155 for one light (bracket, bulb, case and lense) and doesn't
>sell just a lense. After cleaning up the lense, I found it had a Hella
>Logo on it...the righting on the lens was as follows:
>
> TOP
> TN 25
> SAEF86
>
> HELLA
>
> 02B
> (E1)
> 8379
>
>Anyone know what model that this light is so I can order an aftermarket set
>or call Hella directly (they ar local to me)? Any sugestions on other
>lights that fit the stock hole and brackets are welcome also...
>
>Thanks,
>Bryce
>
>'97 Ranger XLT 4x4 SuperCab
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 18:24:26 -0500 (EST)
From: BigDogF250 aol.com
Subject: too much

i am a member of both the 80 below list and the 80 up list and it is just too
much mail, could you please take me off the 80 below list? i still would like
to remain on the 80 up list,
thanks
Matt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 23:27:48 GMT
From: onbelay bit-net.com (Mark Schneider)
Subject: Online EEC-V Information?

Hi All

I'm pretty new to the list, but have been reading a few weeks. Anyway,
I just recently bought a new 97 Ranger 3.0 4X4 to replace my 91 4.0 .
before that, I owned an 88 Bronco II. Being a motorhead from way back
as well as a computer geek, I became quite proficient with EEC-IV. Now
that I have the 97, I'm interested in finding anything online that
deals with EEC-V. Not having much luck with the search engines.

Thanks!

Mark
__

replace belayon with onbelay to email

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 19:48:30 -0500 (EST)
From: PhilDyson aol.com
Subject: Re: Please help decode VIN #

In a message dated 97-11-03 13:49:47 EST, you write:


I'm in need of info to decode a Ford E350 VIN #. If anyone can
help, the number is: 1FDHS35L9FHA56719 I would like to know what engine,
rear axle, transmission, etc it has, and if it has a catalytic converter.
Possible???

thanks in advance,
Bill Martin >>

All I can tell you from the VIN is:
E350 Supervan
Incomplete Vehicle
1985
7.5L 460 4V
GVWR 8500-9000lbs
assembled in Lorain
To get the rest I'll need the trans and axle codes off the tag glued inside
the driver's side door. Here are some of the trans codes: C-manual 3-speed
B-manual 4 speed overdrive and G-C6.
Axle codes- 2 digits if first is a letter it is a limited slip model (D7
Dana 4:10)
a 27 is a dana 4:10 non-limited slip. There are at least 9 different Dana
axles for this van starting a 3:00(code 32) up to 4:10 (code 27). I can't
determine if your vehicle was equiped w cats in 1985 but the E350 w/460 did
not in 82.
Phil

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 19:53:47 -0500
From: Don Vanco
Subject: Re: Online EEC-V Information?

At 11:27 PM 11/3/97 GMT, Mark Schneider wrote:
>Hi All
>
>I'm pretty new to the list, but have been reading a few weeks. Anyway,
>I just recently bought a new 97 Ranger 3.0 4X4 to replace my 91 4.0 .
>before that, I owned an 88 Bronco II. Being a motorhead from way back
>as well as a computer geek, I became quite proficient with EEC-IV. Now
>that I have the 97, I'm interested in finding anything online that
>deals with EEC-V. Not having much luck with the search engines.
To the best of my knowledge there are only a few folks out there that have
cracked the EEC-V stuff. Check with the guys at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.tiac.net/users/goape/ - they won't have anything Ranger specific
(at least I don't think they will) - but they may be able to point you in a
better direction... They certainly can find another 30 horses in the
already stressed 4.6l Cobra....
YMMV
Don

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 19:57:26 -0500
From: Don Vanco
Subject: Borla exhaust for Ranger FS

Found this as I was cruising the WEB -
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.tiac.net/users/goape/bin.htm

Borla/Motorsport Ford Ranger stainless exhaust, M-5200-X, $200.00

that is an awesome price...

Don

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 20:00:20 -0500 (EST)
From: PhilDyson aol.com
Subject: Re: 4WD Lubrication

I don't know what you might be lubricating, certainly not the transfer case
or drive shaft. I will say that drive train wind-up is very hard on
u-joints. Never lock hubs and transfer case on hard dry pavement. You can
lock the hubs, but leave her in 2HI. I don't see a reason to do this. You
should however repack the grease in the front hubs twice a year, more often
if you ford a lot of water or go in the mud. This has worked for me since I
bought my first bronco back in 1979.
Phil

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 Nov 1997 16:23:25 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: headers

I have an '83 351Windsor carberated, stock everything except for a
replacement K&N Filter. I need to replace one of the exhaust manifolds.
Should get new manifolds or some headers? I am not looking for major....


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