Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 03:50:32 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
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Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #187
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fordtrucks80up-digest Friday, October 24 1997 Volume 01 : Number 187
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
Trucks owners in Baltimore? [Michael Ruth ]
Re: '93 Ranger STX 4X4 3.0 [Dave Armbruster ]
F350 Deisel, 2 batteries, again [Steve Field ]
Re: FI cleaning [Midwest96 aol.com]
Re: Dual Tanks and Oil Pressure Gauge ["Keith L. Jones" ]
Headers for 2.3L 4cyl [Luke Wells ]
Second Mouse was:Re: FI cleaning ["Bryce T. Beyler" ]
re: 4.11s ["Randy Kindler" ]
Re: Tire Diameter Calculation [Midwest96 aol.com]
Re: Tire Diameter Calculation [Geoffrey Hoffman ]
tires ["Casey Vandor" ]
Re: FI cleaning & mouse question [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 21:01:33 -0400
From: Michael Ruth
Subject: Trucks owners in Baltimore?
Just wondering if there are any list members in Baltimore,Maryland. It
seems as if I am the only one around!!! E-mail me if your in the area.
95 F-250 HD 4X4 pwrstrk diesel
94 E.B. Explorer 4X4
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 19:43:30 -0600
From: Dave Armbruster
Subject: Re: '93 Ranger STX 4X4 3.0
>2. Since I installed the lift kit and went to the larger tires I am
>having some problems when I am towing. One the check-engine light comes
>on after about two hours of towing. Comes on and off. Once I get back
>home and unhook the boat thats it. Let the truck sit overnight and the
>check engine light wont come on again untill I am towing again. My boat
>and trailer are only about 1400lbs. The other problem when towing is when
>I get into the hill country I have a real hard time. Befor with the stock
>wheels and tires I did not have any problems. Would you suggest
>re-gearing the truck or going with a performance chip, K & N air filter,
>and a better exhaust? If so wich chip and exhaust are best.
The Power Control Module has many sensors that feed into it. I know in the
case of an automatic, it knows the torque output from the engine, throttle
position, vehicle speed, transmission fluid temp, turbine shaft speed among
other things about the drivetrain. IMO, the increased demands put on the
engine causes one or more of the sensors to indicate to the PCM that the
truck is laboring, and the computer can't correct enough to allow the truck
to operate "normally", what the PCM considers right using it's set
It might be a good idea to take it to a dealer or a shop that can read the
codes to see it anything has set an error code within the computer before
throwing parts at it. According to the manuals for my '97, the check
engine light is the one of the lights that is used to flash codes to the
technician when he is troubleshooting the vehicle. I am unsure if there is
a way to use the check engine light only to find out error codes, I think
you use it with the STAR tester that the dealer has.
Installing the larger tires could have confused the computer. I have heard
of times when the computer can get confused due to many things, and the
truck can recognize vehicle speed using the transmission as it's source.
It uses that with other readings to determine air/fuel mixture and shifting
patterns and other things.
>3. Last question. My four wheel drive quit working. When you push the
>button to engage it you here the clicking noises but nothing happens. How
>do I trouble shoot this problem? Is it the module on the trany???? I am
>realy stumped with this one. Dont realy know how or what to check, any
Might be related to the problem showing the check engine light. Sounds
like the switch itself is OK, like it's operating a relay in the dash. All
the powertrain components are interconnected, so I guess one problem could
cause many things to act funny.
Let me know if there's anything I might be able to check in the shop
manuals (they're the Ford Technical Service Support ones from Helms) that
might help. You can email me personally if you want.
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 21:53:09 -0400
From: Steve Field
Subject: F350 Deisel, 2 batteries, again
The current question involves the device that hooks from lighter-socket
to lighter-socket and charges the target car.
The source vehicle is the F350/Deisel - The idea is to be able to charge=
some other car. One would leave the truck idling and the charge takes
about 15-30 minutes.
The questions are: How safe is this? For a deisel? Anyone have
first-hand knowledge of using such a device? Are there any phone numbers=
at Ford for technical info in this area?
+ Steve Field 23-Oct-1997 15:11:21 PT
email: Scionyx Compuserve.com
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 22:22:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Midwest96 aol.com
Subject: Re: FI cleaning
In a message dated 97-10-23 14:14:40 EDT, you write:
What are the opinions on fuel injection cleaning. Should I do the $60
cleaning at the dealer, or dump a can of treatment in the gas tank?
My wife's vehicle is starting idle kinda rough. Thought this would be
the likely suspect.
Early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese
Why doesn't the first mouse get the cheese?
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 20:11:27 -0500
From: "Keith L. Jones"
Subject: Re: Dual Tanks and Oil Pressure Gauge
David, I do not know which year or model of truck you have or if it is a
single owner or multi owner, but on the 1989 F-150's- 350's/Bronco's and
f-Super Duty trucks the oil pressure gauge was not a gauge on all the
trucks. Ford used both a oil pressure switch for indicator lights in the
instrument cluster or combined the switch with a 20 ohm resistor mounted on
the flexible circuit board in the instrument cluster to turn the gauge into
a indicator. The switch was designed to close at between 4.5 and 7.5 PSI.
This will caused the gauge to read about the middle of the scale( that's
what the 20 ohm resistor is far.
You said that the wire to the sender or switch was cut and a diode and
resistor where there. The wire to the sender or switch should got direct
the instrument cluster because the cluster supplies battery voltage to the
sender or switch. The only system that uses a diode and resistor is the
air conditioner. The diode and resistor go across the compressor clutch
coil so that when the compressor is turned off the fly back voltage
generated by the coil will not cause a problem with rest of the electrical
system. If this is the way the truck is wired you have wiring problems and
they need to be fixed before you go any further.
An easy way to tell which type of oil pressure gauge you have is remove the
wire from the switch or sender and ground it for no more than fifteen
seconds with the ignition switch in run position, do not start the truck.
If you have a sender then the gauge will move all the way to the high end,
if it is a switch it will move about to the middle. Now, since your gauge
is not working all that well this may not work for you. If you have a volt
meter set the meter to a scale that you can read 15 volts on. Connect the
negative lead to the block and the positive lead to the wire that connects
to the sender. You should read just a little below battery voltage. This
will tell you if voltage is getting down to the sender or switch form the
instrument cluster. If you do not have any voltage then the sender or
switch can not cause the gauge to work.
While you have the wire at the sender or switch disconnected start the
truck and using an ohm meter positive lead to the sender or switch and the
negative lead to the block check what the resistance is. If you have the
switch then the resistance should be zero or close to it. If it is open or
greater then 73 ohms the sender or switch is bad and needs replacing. The
sender should read about 27 ohms or less with the engine running if it is ok.
If you have determined that the sender or switch is ok and the wiring is ok
then you will have to remove the instrument cluster and clean the contacts
that the gauge fits in and make sure that the contacts for the gauge or
making good contact with the flexible circuit in the instrument cluster.
I hope this has helped you.
At 05:12 10/22/97 PDT, you wrote:
>List members: If I may I would like to use this discussion to raise a
>problem I've been having lately with the oil pressure gague in my truck,
>be grateful for any insights/observations. My truck hums, the engine
>the transmission is in fine condition (knock on wood). But the oil
>has always drifted around the "L" mark, sometimes going just slightly to
>of the L, but not into the red zone. The check engine light has never
come on. I
>check the oil about once every two or three days, and there is always
plenty in the
>pan. The really odd thing is that recently, when I'm driving and I switch
>tank to the other the oil pressure needle sometimes will--simultaneously
>tank switch being activated--suddenly move toward the middle of the gague
>suppose it should ideally rest when the engine is fully warm. I've not yet
>replaced the sending unit, but could to see if that makes a difference;
>connected to the unit is in good shape, no corrosion. (Question for the
>the wire to the sending unit is, at a point about halfway between the
>itself and the battery, cit in half and connected together at that point
>appears to be a diode or resistor. What is the purpose of this? Could
>gone bad?) I've also examined wiring/electrical schematics for the truck;
>I don;t know what the hell I'm looing at, it seems that the tank switch
and the oil
>sending unit appear to be on the same circuit. As far as I know I don;t
>shorts anywhere in the system, although this sounds like one. I've recently
>replaced the alternator and the voltage regulator, as well as both
>clues??? Many thanks, David
>>And now for the opposing view...
>>I can't imagine any reason why it would be detrimental to the fuel
>>injection system to switch between tanks while the engine is running. All
>>the switch does is simply turn one pump off and turn the other one on. The
>>fuel pumps are in the tanks and it is indeed a Bad Thing to run the tanks
>>dry before switching to the other tank, possibly this would cause premature
>>failure of the pump sending pieces towards the injector rail. The filter
>>should catch debris, though.
>>I have been switching between tanks "on the fly" for thousands of miles and
>>several years with no problems. I think that the dealers you talked to are
>>wrong on this one.
>David and Leila Hertzberg
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
Keith L. Jones
140 Shadow Mountain Dr.
El Paso, TX 79912
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 22:33:57 -0400
From: Luke Wells
Subject: Headers for 2.3L 4cyl
I just got my free edition of RacerWalsh yesterday and had a few
1. Has any body dealt with this company, are they good about delivery
2.Also I saw headers for the 2.3 L Ranger, has anybody had any
these? If so are they worth it and where did you get them installed at,
price of install?
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 22:28:44 -0400
From: "Bryce T. Beyler"
Subject: Second Mouse was:Re: FI cleaning
'cause he's cought in the trap...
'97 Ranger XLT 4x4 SuperCab
> From: Midwest96 aol.com
> To: fordtrucks80up listservice.net
> Subject: Re: FI cleaning
> Date: Thursday, October 23, 1997 10:22 PM
> In a message dated 97-10-23 14:14:40 EDT, you write:
> What are the opinions on fuel injection cleaning. Should I do the $60
> cleaning at the dealer, or dump a can of treatment in the gas tank?
> My wife's vehicle is starting idle kinda rough. Thought this would be
> the likely suspect.
> Thom Cheney
> Early bird gets the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese
> Why doesn't the first mouse get the cheese?
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 20:32:07 -0400
From: "Randy Kindler"
Subject: re: 4.11s
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
Dose Anyone here have a 86-92 Bronco Full size that is running 4.11 =
in the rear end? I am thinking about replaceing the stock gears with =
The truck is running 33" muds with a 302 and an AOD. Any comment would =
helpful. Also would\did it help the mpg or did it kill it?
I Ran 32" muds on my '91 F150 with factory 4.10s. It was great. It would =
pull I-70 west of Denver at 75mph in 5th with throttle left. I think it =
would outrun my current 351 E4OD with 3.45s. I got about 15 mpg with 302 =
5sp, get about the same with 351 auto.
Hi,Dose Anyone here have a 86-92 Bronco Full size that is =
gearsin the rear end? I am thinking about replaceing the stock =
with this.The truck is running 33" muds with a 302 and an =
Any comment would behelpful. Also would\did it =
mpg or did it kill it?ThanksJosh Armstong89 =
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I Ran 32" muds on my '91 =
factory 4.10s. It was great. It would pull I-70 west of Denver at 75mph =
with throttle left. I think it would outrun my current 351 E4OD with =
got about 15 mpg with 302 5sp, get about the same with 351=20
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 22:41:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Midwest96 aol.com
Subject: Re: Tire Diameter Calculation
In a message dated 97-10-23 21:11:00 EDT, you write:
multiply by 2. The total is 35250. Now divide the 35250 by 2540. the
total now is 13.877. Add the rim diameter to the previous total and you
get the tire diameter. 28.877 inches tall.
1991 F-150 4x4 4.9L
1994 E-250 4.9L >>
Where did the 2540 come from?
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 22:53:42 -0400
From: Geoffrey Hoffman
Subject: Re: Tire Diameter Calculation
At 10:41 PM -0400 10/23/97, Midwest96 aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 97-10-23 21:11:00 EDT, you write:
> multiply by 2. The total is 35250. Now divide the 35250 by 2540. the
> total now is 13.877. Add the rim diameter to the previous total and you
> get the tire diameter. 28.877 inches tall.
> Bruce Ramirez
> Germantown MD.
> 1991 F-150 4x4 4.9L
> 1994 E-250 4.9L >>
>Where did the 2540 come from?
millimters to inches... (with another hundred for the percent calc...)
so, really multiply by .75, then divide by 25.4 (mm to inches)]
Geoffrey Hoffman gch2 cornell.edu
Cornell University http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pobox.com/~hoffy
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 19:31:05 -0800
From: "Casey Vandor"
Here is what the numbers on metric tires mean. 235/85 R 16 E
235 is the width in mm. 85 is the aspect ratio, (the sidewall height given
as a percentage of the width) R is speed rating (I think....) 16 is rim
diameter and E is load rating. To find the diameter of a metric tire take
235 by 85% and divide that by 25.4 to get inches, multiply by 2 and then....
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