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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 03:50:23 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #170
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fordtrucks80up-digest Friday, October 17 1997 Volume 01 : Number 170



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Ford Trucks posting [James Forrest ]
Re: Drilling Holes in Bumper [Midwest96 aol.com]
Re: Ken's responses to Alt.. [Ken Payne ]
dream truck [yhtlines surfari.net]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #163 [Bill Funk ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #163 [Bill Funk ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #163 [Bill Funk ]
Stumbling drunk & stalling 300 I6 [Pengy67 aol.com]
Re: E4OD AT [Bill Funk ]

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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 20:38:31 -0500
From: James Forrest
Subject: Re: Ford Trucks posting

as far as the gearing goes, you will experience some problems because
3.73 are too small to turn 35 inchers. I wanted to put 35 on my 96
ranger but couldn't justify the cost of new gears. I haven't heard
anything about the 35's with the 8.8. I also would like to know if this
is too much stress

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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:10:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Midwest96 aol.com
Subject: Re: Drilling Holes in Bumper

Be very, very careful about mounting lights under the bumper. Not only have
some of us planted more than a pair, but if they get submerged too much...
















Craig

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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:19:06 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Ken's responses to Alt..

At 08:21 PM 10/16/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi fordtruck list members,
>Just a quick note.
>I'm sure that I am not the only one who follows the newsgroup rec.autos.tech,
>but I ran across another of Ken Payne's responses to Altovoz. I think that
>Ken's responses to that "jerk" are about the best I've seen on that
>newsgroup. Keep up the good work Ken!
>
>Bill

As you can see, I rarely loose my cool on the lists. This Altovoz
character is one of the few people I let get under my skin. He's
psychotic (no kidding). Some of my responses I have to chuckle
about. But sometimes I post a response and look at it the next
day and say to myself "what kind of an example am I displaying,
I hope no one from the lists reads it".... wishful thinking. I
made a decision earlier today to add him to my kill filter, I simply
can't take him anymore and I knew I cross the line when I mentioned
his mothers false teeth.

I'm way off topic here. Let me bring up a Ford truck topic I've
been thinking about....

A couple of people have mentioned cams. What are the experiences
our there with FE cams, not just the Edlebrocks but others. I'm
thinking of replacing the current one. I don't know the specific
specs of this one, got it from a friend. Its a little too much
for me, I can't get a smooth idle with it unless I make the idle
mixture really rich (and then it stinks of gas!). Its pretty
good when you get up there in the revs but I want more low end
punch.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 19:41:01
From: yhtlines surfari.net
Subject: dream truck

Walt is havng a problem with his 92 f150 and VERY understandably p*ssed.
Mythought? Vehicles are machinery, and sometimes expensive, and used ones
are usually even more expensive. About a thousand to recover from the water
pump that disentegrted on my son's "new" 88 F150. Just whose wallet helped
recover from that one?

I hope you get your truck sorted out and begin to enjoy it again. The
repairs you list don't seem normal. I suspect that as you get it sorted
out, things will be brighter. I usually love even the orphan trouble some
vehicles I own, so I shouldn't be talking! We have driven all four(?)
American brands here in this family, and I have a personal bias against
Ford's ability to start rusting (we live on the coast), but think the
302/EFI combos are possibly the longest lived engine ever built, just don't
put it in front of that Mazda manual tranny. I've never had any
chassis/suspension problems with fords once I got the twin Ibeams
straightened out to my liking. I usually have no problems getting 200k from
my fords, and by then I'm tired of them. The newer ones are not as simple
to figure out up front (EFI stuff, I mean) but they sure are reliable,
ignition problems not withstanding. And can be figured out--I gave up on
wanting to rebuild carbs a long time ago. You might want to join the
Fordnatics mailer also,as there is a lot of knowledge on SBF's there, and
balky efi/ignitions systems. You want to talk diesel? stay here? Small
blocks, listen in over "there". (I'm in both). (and would be on the 5.0
list, but its not digest).

Good luck and hope it turns out good. Probably somthing simple... (visions
of an open wallet).
Dave Lampert

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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:02:09 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #163

> Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 10:09:34 -0400
> From: Geoffrey Hoffman
> Subject: more electical questions / supercharger stuff....
>
> At 1:28 AM -0400 10/14/97, warren wrote:
> >Look for any Red with a Green tracer, this has 12v when key is on.
>
> well, i am now curious about one last thing? is there a line anywhere
> that
> is powered when the engine is powered, not just the key? i can hook
> it up
> to ao keyed line, but i don't want this to turn on if i just turn on
> the
> car to listen to my radio.

This can easily be done with an oil pressure sending switch.Using an
on-off switch, piggy-back it on your present switch, if the present one
is a variable resistance switch for a gauge. Otherwise, you can simply
tap into the on-off oil pressure switch you have, going to a 12V DC
relay, and using the output for anything you only want operating when
the engine is running (like a fuel pump).
Fuel pumps for injection systems, though, need to also be powered when
the engine is cranking, so tap into the starter circuitry
for power to the fuel pump when the starter is running.
Bill Funk

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:16:55 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #163

> Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 13:54:00 -0400
> From: bigguy
> Subject: OIL
>
> I was wondering what you guys think of oil treatments and synthetics.
> Do you think I should put a oil treatment in my 4.0 v6 or a full
> synthetic oil, or both, or neither. If you think it is a good idea
> which brands should I use.

>From everything I've read,and my experience as a mechanic, oil additives
are only usefull if you have a specific need that they will fill. IOW,
if you need a viscocity improver, then a viscocity improver will help
you. Otherwise, it won't.Teflon must be baked on to work; if your engine
gets hot enough to bake the teflon on, the engine is a boat anchor, and
no amount of teflon will help it.
Synthetics are a whole 'nother subject. Because they are built up, not
torn down like mineral oil, they can be made to order for a specific
application (like auto motor oil, for example). They do not suffer from
parrafin inclusion, and their molecular chains are tuffer, and won't
shear as readily as mineral oils do. Their additive packages don't need
the buffers and anti-foaming agents that mineral oils do, and these are
the main parts of the packages that wear out and need replacement, so
the additive packages last longer.
They are also more expensive.
Synthetics, in normal auto/light truck useage, don't really provide much
more *protection* than mineral oils, but they do offer less friction,
which means less wear and lower heat damage. (By protection, I mean from
acids or other dispersed materials).
Whether they offer a cost/benefit superiority is up to the owner.
Synthetics can't be used until an engine is broken in (they are just too
slippery to allow the rings to conform to the cylinder walls).
Where they shine (IMO) is in rear ends (I have AMSOIL Gear lube in the
rears of both our F-250 and Explorer). These are areas where friction is
the main cause for failure, and synthetics simply cut friction.
Bill Funk

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:22:49 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #163

> Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 14:31:17 -0400
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: Re: OIL
> ...
> Point your browser to http://www.ford-trucks.com/newsinfo.shtml and
> follow the "Snake Oil" link. This now famous article is a real eye
> opener and I think you'll probably shy away from any additives after
> you read it.
> ...
> When would I use synthetics? If I put "nice" cam in the engine, put
> in
> high compression pistons or other such things. For stock
> applications,
> I'd rather keep the spare change in my pocket. Oil manufacturers seem
>
> to be found of using scare tackets like "Isn't it worth the extra
> $$$$?
> Just in case???" or they pour oil out of engines with bogus tests
> (watch
> the engine fans on those commericials, they're going backwards!).
> Well,
> the FTC has already charged both Slick 50 and Splitfire for bogus
> claims
> and Mobile backed off their extended oil change intervals - why is
> that?
>

I love the ad where they drain the oil and run the engine at an idle
while playing a water hose over the engine!
Any mechanic will tell you that water makes an excellent lubricant under
very light loads (many water pumps use water as a lube), and of course
the cold water keeps the engine cool! Yet the audience is suitably
impressed!
Bill Funk

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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 01:28:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pengy67 aol.com
Subject: Stumbling drunk & stalling 300 I6

HELP! Moving this weekend, so of course, Dad's truck acts up...
The patient: Pop's 93 F150, 300 I6, auto, 88K miles.
The symptoms: It started with hesitation when transitioning from idle to
acceleration (ie - push the gas at a red light and it would stumble).
Situation has worsened in the past 2 days, the truck is now starting hard
(acts almost like it's flooded), stumbling / hesitation has gotten A LOT
worse, stalling at stop lights, etc.

At the suggestion of the local Ford garage, air filter was changed (when did
you last change this dad? that long ago, eh?), no help. Ford then suggested
possible EGR valve problem (had been replaced 30K). Check Engine light has
popped on, but not stayed on - is there any way to read the codes, and where
can I find a listing of the codes (a URL would be fine)? (I can connect
diagnostic pins "gnd" and "ten" on my Probe and the CEL will flash any codes
in the comp - anything similar possible?).

I was thinking the TPS was causing the problem, but the hard start - maybe an
injector leaking down? Stalling - ?? maybe injector related too, not
closing down?? TIA, any suggestions appreciated! If you can figure this
one out, Pop has another question about his Bronco II's heater... ;)

Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 22:56:53 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: E4OD AT

> Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 12:47:55 -0600
> From: "Harold P. Balitski"
> Subject: E4OD automatic transmission
>
> I am wondering if anybody else has had any trouble with the E4OD
> automatic transmission used with the powerstroke diesel.
> My 1996 F350 with 20K miles has been in the shop for the last
> two weeks
> being repaired. One of the snap rings on a clutch pack let go and part
>
> of it dropped into the oil pan, the remainder, into the gearing.
> When the repairs were completed, I talked to the service
> manager, he
> informed me that I was not to tow my 9000# 5TH wheel with the
> transmission in overdrive. I questioned his statement as the operators
>
> manual specifically states to tow in overdrive. His response was that
> Ford requested them to inform all their customers of this new
> information. I latter phoned the Ford customer assistance centre and
> they stated that if the dealer said this, it was indeed correct. Not
> satisfied, I then phoned the service manager of another dealership and
>
> he said that he recommends not to tow in overdrive but the operators
> manual says that you can. (confusing?)
> Is the E4OD a product that is not capable of its intended and
>
> advertised purpose?
>
> Harold

Nope, that's actually a fine transmission.
However, it *is* an electronic overdrive, and that's where the caution
comes in.
No overdrive should be used when the engine would be more "comfortable"
in a lower gear. That means that if you are losing RPMs, take it out of
OD. This has nothing to do with the tranny's ability to pass the torque
or tow the weight, but rather with the abuse on the clutches when it
shifts under loads. You do not want that transmission to "hunt" for the
best gear. Each shift takes its toll, especially under load, with a long
torque arm that the OD gives. Just hit the little button, let it go into
drive, and save the tranny from any unnecessary shifts. It will thank
you by lasting longer.
Ford, depending on exactly who you talk to, will either tell you to take
it out of OD when it hunts, or tell you to never tow in OD. The
"official" line is to tow in OD when the terrain or conditions allow the
tranny to stay in OD, but when/if it shifts down, take it out of OD....

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