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Return-Path: Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 13:57:26 -0600 (MDT) From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest To: fordtrucks80up-digest Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #161 Reply-To: fordtrucks80up Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, October 13 1997 Volume 01 : Number 161 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks80up-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab ["Bob Leifer" FL-820-S vs FL-820 [hunter Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab [silent.bob electrical problem? [Eric W Sneed ] rusted out v8 oil pan ["TUSCOLA" ] Re: OUCH ["David J. Baldwin" ] Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab ["David J. Baldwin" ] Re: OUCH [alanh Re: F-350 General Questions (40' 5th wheel!?) [John Yee Re: electrical problem? ["Evan & Teresa" ] Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab ["Mike Wiatt" Re: rusted out v8 oil pan [PhilDyson Re: rusted out v8 oil pan [PhilDyson Re: Anti sway bars are wonderful. ["Ryan Penner" electical questions / supercharger stuff.... [Geoffrey Hoffman ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 07:14:29 -0400 From: "Bob Leifer" Subject: Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab Adrian, I agree with Mike; I got a '97 Ranger, which I love! But prior to getting it ( with the 3.0 litre V6), I took one out with the 4 cylinder for a test drive. It had an auto tranny in it too. I am sorry to say, that in my opinion, of course, the 4 cylinder engine just does not have enough power to move itself, let alone climb up mountains! Maybe a manual tranny will improve on it, but I say don't get any LESS than the 3.0. The gas mileage on the 6 is less than the 4 cylinder engine, but..... Mine is an XLT 2WD standard cab Short bed Ranger, with the 3 litre, and as I said before, I love it. Take a 4 cylinder and a 6 cylinder truck out for a test drive at the dealer and you decide. My Best, Bob - -----Original Message----- From: Adrian A. Polliack To: fordtrucks80up Date: Monday, October 13, 1997 12:24 AM Subject: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab >I am requesting some input from 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 4 Cyl Supercab >trucks owners or folks who know something about them. > >I have never purchased a truck before. I am planning to purchase a new 2WD >compact truck in the next week or so and would appreciate your assistance. >My basic needs for a truck are for trips to the mountain (mountain biking, >skiing, camping) say 20-30 times per year, where I can store the bikes at >the back and trailing a catamaran with trailer ( the >time would be for city and freeway driving. > >What do you see as the pros/cons of the XLT 2WD Supercab? Does anyone have >experience with other pick-ups e.g. the Toyota Tacoma, Chevy S10 or GMC >Sonoma? Any comments would be helpfull. I have done some research on the >internet and the Ford Ranger surely rates well but I would like to hear it >from some owners. > >With many thanks in advance. > >Adrian Polliack > >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+ >| Send posts to fordtrucks80up >| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request >+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:07:07 -0400 From: hunter Subject: FL-820-S vs FL-820 I know I've seen posts about these oil filters before but don't remember seeing a definitive answer as to the differences. I'm approaching my first oil change and have only seen the FL-820 filter in my local Wal Mart. This is the forth Ford truck I've owned and have used nothing but Castrol oil (10w30 up north and 20w50 in south Florida) and Fram filters, but am considering using Motorcraft filters on my '97. I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles even though my driving habits don't constitute severe driving conditions and have never had a lick of trouble with any of my vehicles. I've seen so many posts regarding synthetic oils, what would be the reasons for using them? I don't think I could bring myself to let the change go beyond 5000 miles so if it's only a matter of not having to change as often it's not worth it to me. Thanks in advance for the feedback. Michael ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 09:49:29 EDT From: silent.bob Subject: Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab On Sun, 12 Oct 1997 21:22:49 -0700 (PDT) "Adrian A. Polliack" writes: >I am requesting some input from 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 4 Cyl >Supercab >trucks owners or folks who know something about them. > >I have never purchased a truck before. I am planning to purchase a >new 2WD >compact truck in the next week or so and would appreciate your >assistance. >My basic needs for a truck are for trips to the mountain (mountain >biking, >skiing, camping) say 20-30 times per year, where I can store the bikes >at >the back and trailing a catamaran with trailer ( >of the >time would be for city and freeway driving. > >What do you see as the pros/cons of the XLT 2WD Supercab? Does anyone >have >experience with other pick-ups e.g. the Toyota Tacoma, Chevy S10 or >GMC >Sonoma? Any comments would be helpfull. I have done some research on >the >internet and the Ford Ranger surely rates well but I would like to >hear it >from some owners. > >With many thanks in advance. > >Adrian Polliack I like the back seat in the Tacoma but I think that the features on the Ranger are better then what the Tacoma has to offer. But I haven't heard anything bad about them, or anything good for that matter. S10... ...sux, throw a 200 lbs. in the bed, and boom, you have a funky looking low rider. My Ranger can hold 800+ lbs. My max load so far has been 1400 lbs. with equal load throughout the bed. I wouldn't go any further. Pulling with the 4 banger all depends. I pull a john boat w/ a 25hp Johnson and you lucky if you go faster than 60 mph in the hills, but if your going to the beach, you should not have any problems. The gas milage is pretty good too. If you do get a 4 banger, get a standard. If you plan on getting an auto, go with the 3.0 or 4.0 .---. .----------- / \ __ / ------ / / \(..)/ ----- ////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordManTed.com (Mustang Shop) //// / // : : --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site) // / / /` '-- // //..\ =======UU====UU===[silent.bob '//||\` ''`` ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 07:40:42 -0700 From: Eric W Sneed Subject: electrical problem? I have 89 f-150 4x4 with a 4.9L L6, the voltmeter in the dash will drop from normal range(12.5 to 14.0v) down to approx 10v. What's confusing me is that when i tap on the gauge it will jump back up to normal. However when running the heater, it will drop off again. Also the battery light will come on from time to time. I know that it is not the battery(two different brand new batts)that is causing the problem. Any insight into what might be the problem would be appreciated. Eric Sneed ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 11:37:04 -0400 From: "TUSCOLA" Subject: rusted out v8 oil pan I have a 88, 150 4wd with a 302 engine that has an oil pan that has rusted out. While checking on a leak I removed a piece of rust and a hole the size of a pencil opened up on the pan. I epoxyed it and fixed it put found out that the hole drivers side of the pan is got a bunch of pin holes and not emoug good metal to get the epoxy to hold on to. Does any body know if I can change the pan with out pulling the engine? I'm hoping that I could drop the cross over pipe, raise the engine engine abit and get enough clearance to get the pan out. Anyone done this? Or I am hoping that their may be a hidden Ford re-call or hidden fix on this, is their? I got a paint job out of them. Thanks tuscola ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 11:05:11 -0500 From: "David J. Baldwin" Subject: Re: OUCH silent.bob > > There are other people with GM products that I could name and write about > too, but the point is that I have seen more GM cars and trucks start to > fail in a short amount of time than I have seen Fords fail. A friend of mine asked when I got my F-150 two years ago, "Why'd you get a piece-of-**** Ford"? Part of my response my have been the influence of his experiences with his GMC crew-cab: at 200 miles the rub strip on the door (glued on) fell off. At 300 miles, he went to close the door and the door panel pulled off! At 450 miles, the temp gage started climbing a block from his house (454--known for running hot anyway). He barely made it home. Found that the crank pulley had come off of the damper and fallen completely off! Someone stole the damn thing (the truck, not the pulley)--which was probably doing him a favor. Then he bought another one! Some people never learn. My '150 on the other hand, is at 27K mi. with only one problem to date: the wiper switch--which was replaced free of charge under warranty. Only thing I would've done different was get the 5.8L instead of the 5.0L. Just not enough torque for a truck. 5.0L winds up nice though--can't say it won't rev. - -- Best Regards, Dave Baldwin Dallas, TX - -------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 11:24:24 -0500 From: "David J. Baldwin" Subject: Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab Adrian A. Polliack wrote: > > I am requesting some input from 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD 4 Cyl Supercab > trucks owners or folks who know something about them. > > I have never purchased a truck before. I am planning to purchase a new 2WD > compact truck in the next week or so and would appreciate your assistance. > My basic needs for a truck are for trips to the mountain (mountain biking, > skiing, camping) say 20-30 times per year, where I can store the bikes at > the back and trailing a catamaran with trailer ( > time would be for city and freeway driving. > > What do you see as the pros/cons of the XLT 2WD Supercab? Does anyone have > experience with other pick-ups e.g. the Toyota Tacoma, Chevy S10 or GMC > Sonoma? Any comments would be helpfull. I have done some research on the > internet and the Ford Ranger surely rates well but I would like to hear it > from some owners. I have had a Toyota 4-Runner and a 4.0L Ranger 4X4 (both). The Toyota was a 4 cylinder, and I can tell you that at ~300 ft. above sea level, performance was adequate (barely) just around town. When I took it to Colorado, it wouldn't get out of its own way! I am not kidding here: I was at about 8000 ft, crawling at 20MPH in second gear while 4.0L Jeep Cherokees blew my doors off at 70MPH! I had MANY fit/trim problems and the tranny gone through at 35K miles. Also had timing chain slaping noise that they could never do anything with. The Ranger: I had a friend who considered the 4-banger, but I talked into going as high as a 3.0 six. He was satisfied with performance most of the time, but loading it with anything left it lacking. When I bought mine, I got the 4.0L and automatic. I wouldn't even compare this vehicle with the Toyota. The motor had plenty of torque on the low-end where trucks need it. I hauled truckfuls of manure out of a friend's barn (I don't know how much it weighed, but it was heavy) and didn't even know it was there. Never had a chance to drive it at altitude, but I doubt that it would have a problem. My recommendation: With as many mountain trips as you plan, I'd get the 4.0L, auto or manual. If you were to just take a couple of trips per year, the 3.0L might be adequate, but the combination of mountains and towing will probably be too much for it. But then, I can't STAND a wheeze-box truck. If you are a very conservative driver, the 3.0L might be OK for you. You might rent one (if you can) and make the trip. See how it takes the altitude. Good luck. I really enjoyed my Ranger. I think it had better performance than the 5.0L F-150 I have now, although the F-series is really a tougher truck. - -- Best Regards, Dave Baldwin Dallas, TX - -------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 09:32:33 -0700 From: alanh Subject: Re: OUCH Seems we're telling horror stories about the "other" truck guys, so I've got to add my voice to the rabble! I bought a 1984 Chevy C30 Crew Cab Duallie brand new (when I picked it up, it had 27 miles on the odometer). It was equipped with the 454 cid engine, TH400 tranny, 4.1:1 axle, and Silverado trim package. It was used as a daily commuter and to pull our 24 ft travel trailer, which weighed 4,750 lb. The first thing to break was the fuel tank transfer valve; it would intermittently refuse to switch. The first time I replaced it, the dealer charged me $65 for a new valve. When that one quit, I mentioned it to a friend who offered to check it out. He tore the valve apart and noticed that it was made with Buna-N type o-rings, which are known to expand when immersed in gasoline. For less than a dollar, we replaced the o-rings with Viton type rings and the problem disappeared. Next the cruise control switch shorted out. It was constantly sending a "coast" signal instead of holding a set speed. Since the dealer wanted $85 for a replacement stalk, I wired up a switch on the dash to replace the factory switch. Then, at 57,109 miles (that number is indelibly engraved in my memory!) while I was driving to work one morning, I heard the unmistakable sound of a rod bearing letting go. Just 7 months, and a little over 7,000 miles out of warranty, and I've got a major repair bill. Chevy gave us the usual song-and-dance about the length of the warranty so we contacted the Better Business Bureau. Arbitration resulted in Chevy picking up 1/2 of the repair bill since we only got about 1/2 of their expected life out of the engine. Two weeks after I reinstalled the engine, the transmission gave up. Upon teardown, I found a lot of plastic parts in a supposedly heavy-duty transmission. After rebuilding that, it was decided that the truck will not reside in our driveway for very much longer. It finally got traded in on our current rig: a 1990 F350 Crew Cab Duallie Diesel. Anyone want to take a guess as to how many Chevy trucks we'll own in the future? Alan Hepburn | | National Semiconductor | DON'T TREAD ON ME | Santa Clara, Ca | | alanh ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 08:34:16 -0700 From: John Yee Subject: Re: F-350 General Questions (40' 5th wheel!?) At 07:35 AM 10/11/97 -0700, you wrote: >> Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 15:12:13 -0700 >> From: alanh >> Subject: Re: F350 general questions >> >> > I've been watching the mailing list archives for a while, but >> decided >> > I'd have to actually post to find answers to some of my VERY-NOVICE >> > questions. Please gimmie a hand! I need to pull a 40' 5th, and my >> > toyota just ain't gonna cut it. How much would you expect a trailer >> >> > like this to weigh? >> >> That's hard to say; definitely over 10,000 lb, and somewhere between >> there >> and 20,000 lb depending on a lot of factors. >> >> > I'm looking in the 1988 to 92 range, because I understand 88 is when >> the >> > Powerstroke 7.3 was introduced, right? >> >> Actually I think '88 is when the Navistar engine went from 6.9L up to >> 7.3L. The Powerstroke didn't happen until '94 or so. Between then >> there >> was a "pseudo-Powerstroke" which was a non-turbo version, but it was >> only >> offered until the Powerstroke came up. >> >> > I'd prefer a crew cab, which means I'm looking at an F350 no matter >> what >> > (in that year range), right? > >Doesn't make any difference what light duty pickup is used, that 40' 5th >wheel is too heavy for safe towing. >Here's how to figure the towing capacity of any given truck: >Find the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Limit (GCWL). >Weigh the truck. >Subtract the weight of the truck from the GCWL (don't forget to add to >the truck weight the driver, passengers, all gear that will be in the >truck, the dogs, etc). >What's left is what the manufacturer says you can safely tow (and they >oughta know). >Are they conservative? OK, add 10%. >Are we anywhere *near* what that 40 footer weighs? >And remember, 4X4 and crew cabs *REDUCE* towing capacity. >What's the solution? Find a used F-600 or F-750 (this *IS* the FORD list >;-)) and rebuild it to suit your needs and wants. >Expensive? You bet. So's that 40 footer. So's that lawsuit you get hit >with when *anything* goes wrong, and you are grossly overloaded >(Insurance? HAH!) For an example of *expensive*, check out http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://interoz.com/wf/wf.htm. Here is the Western Flyer (RV-afied Freightliner). $40K - $80K. GVW of 26,000 lbs to 48,000 lbs., and in the ball park of 800-860 ft. lbs. of torque. But on the other hand, if you are towing some 40' 5th wheel, like a Teton, these puppies top out at 25,000 lbs GVWR. (13k - 14K lbs empty) The Medium duty truck is the only way to safely go.... - -john >Do people tow 40 footers with F-350 pickups? Yes, they do. And most >never have a problem, other than the constant throwing of money at the >drivetrain which was never meant to handle that load. Does that mean >that anyone can do so with no problems? No, it doesn't. Why risk it? >Bill > >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+ >| Send posts to fordtrucks80up >| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request >+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+ > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 10:10:04 -0700 From: "Evan & Teresa" Subject: Re: electrical problem? my 88 f-250 has the same problem with the voltmeter i just got used to it although it seems like i have to give the dash a bit of a wack to get it to come to just my .02 evan - -----Original Message----- From: Eric W Sneed To: fordtrucks80up Date: Monday, October 13, 1997 7:39 AM Subject: electrical problem? >I have 89 f-150 4x4 with a 4.9L L6, the voltmeter in the dash will drop >from normal range(12.5 to 14.0v) down to approx 10v. What's confusing >me is that when i tap on the gauge it will jump back up to normal. >However when running the heater, it will drop off again. Also the >battery light will come on from time to time. I know that it is not the >battery(two different brand new batts)that is causing the problem. Any >insight into what might be the problem would be appreciated. > > >Eric Sneed >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+ >| Send posts to fordtrucks80up >| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request >+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+ > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 10:56:14 PDT From: "Mike Wiatt" Subject: Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab Ford Rangers are the best mid size trucks out there. One comment though...get a V6. Pref the 4.0. It IS worth the extra cash. I have a few friends with the 2.3 and they all want the V6. My brother has a '91 supercab 3.0 and its a lot better than the 2.3 but my 4.0 has a lot more torque. Quick little story...(if you know what the Grapevine, a pretty good climb, is in CA then it helps)I was going dirt bike riding in Gorman. I had 30 gallons of water in the bed of my truck along with a motorcycle. The rest of the bed was filled with firewood. I was towing a 3-bike trailer that was full. Besides me there were 3 other adults in the car. My truck held 65 mph all the way up the grade without even heating up and the a/c was on. Needless to say I am glad I got the 4.0 - --------------------------------------------- pyro152 The Ford Ranger Pages http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/7894 - --------------------------------------------- ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 14:16:01 -0400 (EDT) From: PhilDyson Subject: Re: rusted out v8 oil pan tuscola > I have a 88, 150 4wd with a 302 engine that has an oil pan that has rusted >out. While checking on a leak I removed a piece of rust and a hole the size > of a pencil opened up on the pan. I epoxyed it and fixed it put found out > that the hole drivers side of the pan is got a bunch of pin holes and not > emoug good metal to get the epoxy to hold on to. > > Does any body know if I can change the pan with out pulling the engine? I'm >hoping that I could drop the cross over pipe, raise the engine engine abit >and get enough clearance to get the pan out. Anyone done this? I've done it on an 82 5.8 and again on 86 F150 5.8. I had to lift the engine several inches to get enough clearance to slide the pan between the frame-saddle and the oil pump. Also the limited space available made it hard to scrape away all the old gasket material to get a good seal on the new pan but not impossible. Now would be a good time to check the condition of main bearings and replace the rear crank seal (if needed). I've never heard of oil pans rusting out, they usually coat themselves with oil. Could be caused by road salt I guess. Good luck, Phil ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 14:17:20 -0400 (EDT) From: PhilDyson Subject: Re: rusted out v8 oil pan tuscola > I have a 88, 150 4wd with a 302 engine that has an oil pan that has rusted >out. While checking on a leak I removed a piece of rust and a hole the size > of a pencil opened up on the pan. I epoxyed it and fixed it put found out > that the hole drivers side of the pan is got a bunch of pin holes and not > emoug good metal to get the epoxy to hold on to. > > Does any body know if I can change the pan with out pulling the engine? I'm >hoping that I could drop the cross over pipe, raise the engine engine abit >and get enough clearance to get the pan out. Anyone done this? I've done it on an 82 5.8 and again on 86 F150 5.8. I had to lift the engine several inches to get enough clearance to slide the pan between the frame-saddle and the oil pump. Also the limited space available made it hard to scrape away all the old gasket material to get a good seal on the new pan but not impossible. Now would be a good time to check the condition of main bearings and replace the rear crank seal (if needed). I've never heard of oil pans rusting out, they usually coat themselves with oil. Could be caused by road salt I guess. Good luck, Phil ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 13:51:21 -0600 From: "Ryan Penner" Subject: Re: Anti sway bars are wonderful. - ---------- > From: Carl Warren Levin > To: fordtrucks80up > Subject: Anti sway bars are wonderful. > Date: Sunday, October 12, 1997 4:28 PM > > > I just put on Hellwig anti sway bars and the handling difference is quite > remarkable. I highly recommend them to anyone. I have a I6, stick, 1995 > f150 short bed and the thing handles like a BMW. Well almost....... > > "Any culture that surrenders it's vision and it's self sustaining > values to the narrow judgement of commerce will be neither free > nor just" Ralph Nader > Carl Levin carl > > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks80up > | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request > +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+ Where do you find these? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 15:47:05 -0400 From: Geoffrey Hoffman Subject: electical questions / supercharger stuff.... well, i have been putting in the super charger over break, but i have some scattered questions for anyone, or prefereably anyone who has put in a vortech. anyway, this is a 93 explorer, same thing as a ranger as far as installation... anyway, i need to put an additional fule pump thing in line with the filter, and i need to know what to hook it up to. for the real fuel pump,.... 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