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Date: Sun, 12 Oct 1997 03:50:22 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #159
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fordtrucks80up-digest Sunday, October 12 1997 Volume 01 : Number 159



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Overheating! [FOMOCONUT aol.com]
suspension lift? ["John W. McCleney Jr." ]
Powertrax locker [Andrew T Vincitore ]
Re: Overheating! [Husk77 aol.com]
Re: Overheating! [Ken Payne ]
Re: OUCH [Bill Funk ]
RE: need more power! [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Re: F-350 General Questions (40' 5th wheel!?) [Bill Funk
Re: OUCH [KSMIKE aol.com]
F700 or F800? [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Re:need more power! [Geoffrey Hoffman ]
Re: Nekkkid 460.. and rustin' [KSMIKE aol.com]
ADMIN: Static Window Sticker Info [Ken Payne ]
ADMIN: To everyone who has donated [Ken Payne ]
ADMIN: new Window Sticker design on web site [Ken Payne
Re: Powertrax locker [bill gibson ]
nee more power [JOUZA1 aol.com]
Re: need more power! [JOUZA1 aol.com]
Re: Overheating! ["C. E. White III" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 06:37:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: FOMOCONUT aol.com
Subject: Re: Overheating!

Well first thing you must determine is if you actually have "flow", the new
componets you described don't ensure this. You can check this a couple of
ways: One, you can really just look in the Radiator, start with cap removed
and observe, check for flow to begin ( starting with a cold engine) when your
thermostat would normaly open, if it is flowing you will know. Second, when
you do have a overheating condition, is the upper and lower hose the same
temp? if you have good flow they should be just about the same, too close to
tell by touch anyway. I'm thinking you have a radiator that has a partially
cloged core. This is the direction I would go in to find the problem with the
information you provided, of course the more info, the better the educated
guess. I hope this does help you a little. Send more details and I am sure we
can tackle this. And HEY, those old Couriers were KEWL, I almost bought a 4WD
conversion one brand new in 78. Wish I had, would have been a fun toy.



John Miller
96 F-350 4X4
68 F-250 4X4
.... and always looking ! !

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 05:47:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: "John W. McCleney Jr."
Subject: suspension lift?

Good morning,
Thanks to everyone who responded to my "pinging" problem. I don't
remember who got it but, It did have to do with the k&n installation.
I followed someones advice and disconnected the battery and let the
computer reset. The pinging stopped. Someone hit it right on the nose.
My next project:
On my 1991 f-150 4x2 aod 180,000 mi. I am trying to get some info on a
lift kit. I hear about both body lift and susp. lift. Obviously the
susp. would be more expensive. But I am only looking for about 4 in.
What are my best bets . The susp. kits are about 3x the price of the
body kits and it seems like Summit has about the best prices. I can do
the work myself, so thats not a problem. I guess I'm just trying to
find out if the suspension kit is worth the extra money and labor time.
Thanks
Jmac
_____________________________________________________________________
Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.rocketmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 09:26:09 -0400
From: Andrew T Vincitore
Subject: Powertrax locker

Thanks for the info on diffs. I contacted Powertrax about their locker
spider gears. They seem to offer all the options I want , locker traction=

when needed, open diff advantages, and reasonable cost. $359 plus
installation( 2-3 hours) with no messing with ring and pinion. Does
anyone have any experiance with the Lock-Rite Product? I understand they
are popular with the mustang and 4x4 crowd. I just don't want to get stuc=
k
this winter and be able to get up my driveway. Overall they seem like the=
y
know their stuff. As to driveability, I can imagine that driving a bronc=
o
or other short wb truck can be hairy. My truck has the longest wheelbase =
so
it should be OK. The clicking they refer to is minor they claim and in m=
y
large truck he said I probably won't even hear it. So we'll see.

Andrew

92 F-250 2WD =


BTW Can't we come up with something a little more clever then "Truck
Suck?... "

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 09:33:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Husk77 aol.com
Subject: Re: Overheating!

When I first read the subject I thought it said "overEATING' and I was very
much interested because I've been trying to lose weight for years. But I was
wrong. Anyway, good luck with your problem.

The Husker

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 10:09:58 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Overheating!

At 12:04 AM 10/11/97 -0500, you wrote:
>First of all Thanks to everone who has made this list possible. I have a
>1981 ford
>courier ( I know it's a hybrrid ) but I really need some help! For some
>reason it keeps overheating, I have replaced the water pump, thermostat
>and flushed the cooling system. Their are no visable signs of leaking
>and there is no water in the oil.
>I have done everthing I know any suggestions? Thanks in advance Bill

First, I take it that this is carburated? If so, does it overheat
at idle and does it idle rough? If yes, then adjust the idle mixture.
You should mixture adjustment screws on the bottom/front of the
carb. Unfortunately, due to emission laws they may have limiter
caps so you might not have this option.

Second, you may need to have the radiator "boiled out". This gets
rid of years of deposits that decrease cooling efficiency. Partial
blocks on old radiators aren't uncommon. There was a long discussion
months ago about using a small amount of Drano in a warm cooling
system to do this. However, I cannot vouche for this and I don't
know if it would cause gasket leaks. And remember that stuff is
deadly!

Third, check the timing. Get a cheap (no need to spend more than
you have to on an item you won't use much) timing light, mail back
and I'll walk you through the timing procedure if you've never done
it before. I don't have timing specs but it won't be hard for me
to get them. I don't think this is the problem, most likely its
#2.

Fourth, I hate mentioning this one but it does happen.... Perhaps
you had a bad thermostat and put the replacement one in backwards?

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 07:19:50 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: OUCH

>
>
> Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 12:05:08 -0500
> From: "Stephen M. Brown"
> Subject: OUCH
>
> Well, I just rode in a 5.7 vortec C***Y tow truck (don't ask me
> why...I am
> still smokin' mad at a certain person who cut me off).
> Anyway...That vortec engine is awesome. Ford has missed out with its
> OHC
> 4.6 and 5.4. Those c***y's are putting out TONS of low end hp and
> torque,
> and the new Fords are like twinkie eatin', ballet shoe wearin',
> tortoise
> chasin' excuses for trucks at low RPM.

...

> steve

Tow trucks often have a higher (numeric) rear end than normal (over
4.10:1),
making them seem to have more low end grunt than normal.
In addition, many shops "warm up" their tow trucks a little (legal or
not).
Bill

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 10:36:26, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: RE: need more power!

Hey Josh,

Like you, I am an 18 year old college student looking for more power
from my '98 4.0L with a stick. IS your truck a regular cab shortbox
like mine? How much power did the Hypertech add and the K&N? I heard
you must run premium gas...is that true? Do you know you must have
atleast 50,000 miles on your truck before you change catalytic
converters to get two for "True Duals?" If you are looking for more
HP and want to spend $300-400, you can either add headers with your
custom exhast or you can try a larger mass air sensor and a larger
throttle body. If you want to reach 300 HP, you must add all the
stuff mention PLUS a supercharger and a shot of Nitros. A lot of
people use Nitros, and as long as you don't over use it, it shouldn't
harm your engine.

ps. Another question..does your truck have limited slip rear axle and
what gears? Also, what tire/wheels are you running?

Josh Tenney
KNBD87D prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 07:35:30 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: F-350 General Questions (40' 5th wheel!?)

> Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 15:12:13 -0700
> From: alanh galaxy.nsc.com (The Hepburn)
> Subject: Re: F350 general questions
>
> > I've been watching the mailing list archives for a while, but
> decided
> > I'd have to actually post to find answers to some of my VERY-NOVICE
> > questions. Please gimmie a hand! I need to pull a 40' 5th, and my
> > toyota just ain't gonna cut it. How much would you expect a trailer
>
> > like this to weigh?
>
> That's hard to say; definitely over 10,000 lb, and somewhere between
> there
> and 20,000 lb depending on a lot of factors.
>
> > I'm looking in the 1988 to 92 range, because I understand 88 is when
> the
> > Powerstroke 7.3 was introduced, right?
>
> Actually I think '88 is when the Navistar engine went from 6.9L up to
> 7.3L. The Powerstroke didn't happen until '94 or so. Between then
> there
> was a "pseudo-Powerstroke" which was a non-turbo version, but it was
> only
> offered until the Powerstroke came up.
>
> > I'd prefer a crew cab, which means I'm looking at an F350 no matter
> what
> > (in that year range), right?

Doesn't make any difference what light duty pickup is used, that 40' 5th
wheel is too heavy for safe towing.
Here's how to figure the towing capacity of any given truck:
Find the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Limit (GCWL).
Weigh the truck.
Subtract the weight of the truck from the GCWL (don't forget to add to
the truck weight the driver, passengers, all gear that will be in the
truck, the dogs, etc).
What's left is what the manufacturer says you can safely tow (and they
oughta know).
Are they conservative? OK, add 10%.
Are we anywhere *near* what that 40 footer weighs?
And remember, 4X4 and crew cabs *REDUCE* towing capacity.
What's the solution? Find a used F-600 or F-750 (this *IS* the FORD list
;-)) and rebuild it to suit your needs and wants.
Expensive? You bet. So's that 40 footer. So's that lawsuit you get hit
with when *anything* goes wrong, and you are grossly overloaded
(Insurance? HAH!)
Do people tow 40 footers with F-350 pickups? Yes, they do. And most
never have a problem, other than the constant throwing of money at the
drivetrain which was never meant to handle that load. Does that mean
that anyone can do so with no problems? No, it doesn't. Why risk it?
Bill

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 10:54:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: KSMIKE aol.com
Subject: Re: OUCH

I had a Trailer Life magazine that had a comparison of the "Big Three" small
block trucks set up for towing and even though the Ford with the 5.4 had the
lowest cubic inch, horspower and torque ratings but it won in almost ALL
catagories. This included towing idenical trailers up steep grades...side by
side, solo performance etc......I was really suprised. The numbers and the
test results didnt lie....The Ford and Ch**y were pretty close but the Ford
did out perform it. I gotta feeling the advertised ratings for the other
trucks are "very" optomistic.

I think my wife trashed that issue of Trailer Life...but im still searching
for it....


Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 11:10:48, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: F700 or F800?

If anyone is looking for an F700 or F800 crew cab or anything that
large, you've come across the right person. These trucks are made to
handle those kind of weights *safely* and *legally* (i.e. 40'
trailer)

Josh
KNBD87D prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 11:15:54 -0400
From: Geoffrey Hoffman
Subject: Re:need more power!

At 5:35 PM -0400 10/10/97, JOUZA1 aol.com wrote:
> I am a 18 year old college student with a 93 Ranger. It has the 4.0
>and 5 speed trans. I am looking for some power upgrades in the 300-400
>dollar range. They have to be boltons. Somthing local mechanics can put on
>or easier. I already have a K&N and Hypertech Power Module. I am saving to
>put true duals on. Other than those few options what else could I purchase?
> I am looking for a total of around 300 horspower when all done. Thanks for
>all your time to those who reply.

I have a '93 explorer with the saem 4.0 V6, and too, have been looking for
upgrades. You will not be able to get anywhere near 300 HP with 3-400
dollars. you need to go way over that. The base engine has 165 or so.
With your K&N you go to 166. New Exhaust will cost 300, and give you from
15-20. New headers (also around 300) will give you about 10-15. (New cats
if you replace those will also be something like 10-15 HP, and cost around
200-300) A new mass/air sensor or throttle body (something like 150-200
each, but i am not sure) will give you something like 5-10 HP for each.
So, you have added about 40-50 HP for about 1000-1500. That is not a huge
amount. If you want to go more hard core, you can add the supercharger,
which will run around 2500-3000 (depending on how good it is) and that will
give you 90-100 horse. To get over 300, though, you need to do all of
these, as each of these mods tend to make the others more effective. As
in, together, they give you more power, than the sum of what each part
does. Like a supercharger (which i am going to be putting in this weekend,
i'll tell y'all how it goes) will give 90 base, but will give a little more
as you change all of these air-in/air-out mods.

anyway, that is what i have picked up. I went with the supercharger,
because everything else seemed to give only smaller gains. (mind you, the
price was alittle more than i wanted to pay, but 160 horse is just now
enough for something this big)

see ya. let me know if you need any more info...

- --
Geoffrey Hoffman gch2 cornell.edu
Cornell University http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pobox.com/~hoffy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 11:28:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: KSMIKE aol.com
Subject: Re: Nekkkid 460.. and rustin'

I know that it is not uncommon for Ford not to paint parts that are not
visible unless you under the vehical. They have been doing it for as long as
I can remember. It would be nice if they did paint everything, but the parts
that they dont paint are not usually affected by surface rust. So I guess
they feel why should they waste the paint?? 90% of the people that buy cars
never notice it (and that's who they care about). But that is the mentality
that gave the Japenese such a strong foot hold in the american auto industry.


Those of us that really care about the vehical that we drive and the way it
looks everywhere are a minority..

Just my $.02 worth..

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 11:54:52 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Static Window Sticker Info

Here's the sticker information, I've been getting many requests for
this:

Stickers are $3 each. I'll make about $1.28 (after postage) profit
each. Proceeds go towards web site and listserver fees.

"Stickers" have no glue, they use static cling and are designed for
windows. They'll work on both the inside and outside and will not
blow off (unless you put them on the front windshield and drive 90mph).

Design went to the printer yesterday. He looked at it, printed it out
on their special printer and said "truck graphic has to go because it
looks awful". The graphic had pixels showing up on the print-out.
Indeed, once printed, it did look awful. So we are using just text.
Sometime in the future we'll have a multi-colored sticker (and bumper
sticker too) with graphics, but not now.

Design is:
Tried, True And FORD Blue
www.ford-trucks.com

Sticker is clear with white lettering. I had to ditch the Ford blue
color because they wanted an extra $20 to have a custom color
matched/mixed. They had 2 blue colors as "standard" colors but neither
came close.

To order send payment to:
Kenneth Payne
FTE, Sticker
P.O. 422
Lilburn, GA 30048

Give me up to 3 weeks to send them in case other priorities come up.
Most likely, shipping will begin Tuesday and proceed through next
week.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 12:01:59 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: To everyone who has donated

To everyone who has donated to Ford Truck Enthusiasts to keep us
going, either this time around or during the Spring/early Summer.

I promised a window sticker. I intend to keep that promise and
stickers will go out at the same time as people who specifically
ordered one.

I have tried to keep good records on who has donated but I'm
human so I may have missed one or two people.

If you've donated to us, please email me privately
(kpayne mindspring.com) a notice letting me know (do not list your
donation amount). List your name and address. I shouldn't have to
say this but I will: this is on the honor system, be truthful
about it.

Thanks,
Ken

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 12:04:34 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: new Window Sticker design on web site

Sorry to send yet another email but I forgot this:

The new design is on the web site,
www.ford-trucks.com
You'll see the sticker link on the bottom of the page.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 09:03:14 -0700
From: bill gibson
Subject: Re: Powertrax locker

Andrew T Vincitore wrote:
>
> Thanks for the info on diffs. I contacted Powertrax about their locker
> spider gears. They seem to offer all the options I want , locker traction
> when needed, open diff advantages, and reasonable cost. $359 plus
> installation( 2-3 hours) with no messing with ring and pinion. Does
> anyone have any experiance with the Lock-Rite Product? I understand they
> are popular with the mustang and 4x4 crowd. I just don't want to get stuck
> this winter and be able to get up my driveway. Overall they seem like they
> know their stuff. As to driveability, I can imagine that driving a bronco
> or other short wb truck can be hairy. My truck has the longest wheelbase so
> it should be OK. The clicking they refer to is minor they claim and in my
> large truck he said I probably won't even hear it. So we'll see.
>
> Andrew
>
> 92 F-250 2WD
> Greetings Andrew

I've got this locker in my 85 F-250 4x4.It is great for traction
and so far hasn't caused any extra strain on the driveline that I can
tell. You do hear the clicking when making sharp slow speed corners but
you get used to it.
I really appreciate that extra traction when I'm pulling a
loaded stock trailer out of a muddy pasture.
In my opinion it's a good buy .
Bill Gibson
Tees Ab Canada
85 F250 4x4 6.9 diesel-
L

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 17:55:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: JOUZA1 aol.com
Subject: nee more power

My truck is a reg. cab short box. I figure on about 35 HP from the filter
and chip. Not sure on gears or axle. For now I am runing stock tire but am
looking to get Goodyear Eagles. I have 64,000 plus miles on my truck.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 18:00:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: JOUZA1 aol.com
Subject: Re: need more power!

I meant 300-400 on one thing at a time not all together. If I save for one
thing at a time I can do that. Thanks for all the great info. Let me know
about the supercharger setup.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 22:24:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. E. White III"
Subject: Re: Overheating!

At 01:14 AM 10/11/97 -0500, you wrote:....


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