fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, September 15 1997 Volume 01 : Number 112
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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In this issue:
F-250 [meadjr minotafb.ndak.net]
83 Ranger Tranny Woes ["Tom L." ]
Subject: Re: 84 Ranger, 2.3 L and HP? ["Lou Guerriero"
Bronco II Leakage problems.... ["Lou Guerriero" ]
Re: 83 Ranger Tranny Woes [PhilDyson aol.com]
1997 vs 1999 F350 CrewCab7.3L powerstroke [Claude King
Re: Bronco II Leakage problems.... [Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Good News! ["Charles A. Biggs" ]
Ranger Winter Tires ?????????? ["Chris" ]
PCV Filter ["Lou Guerriero" ]
ADMIN: Vote results ["Payne, Kenneth" ]
Re: PCV Filter [mrkrispy webtv.net (Ian Holter)]
Re: UNDERDRIVE PULLEYS FOR NEWER 2.3's [silent.bob juno.com]
Re: PCV Filter [Charles Cohn ]
WINMAIL.DAT attachment ["Erik J. O'Daniel" ]
Re: F-250 [BILLPEGZ aol.com]
Re: New F-250 [Ducks4jim aol.com]
Re: New F-250 [Ducks4jim aol.com]
Re: Good News! ["Ryan Penner" ]
Re: Good News! [Charles Cohn ]
We have decieded to order the 1997 F-250. Are there any other options that we might want, or somthing that we have but might not want?
F250 HD 4x4 Supercab XLT shortbox
Camper/trailer tow package
Heavy duty front & Rear suspension
High Altitude use
Manual locking hubs
Sliding rear window
auxilary idle control
Rear Step Bumper
License Plate Bracket
Wondering if any of you can help me with the following problem:
(83 Ranger, 2x, 2.3L, C5 Auto Tranny)
Just installed a new flywheel and starter, and am now having shifting
problems. It shifts from 1st to 2nd at very high revs (sorry, no tach) at
about 30 MPH. It shifts from 2nd to 3rd (also at high rev) around 45 MPH.
Prior to removing the tranny to access the flywheel, there were no tranny
problems at all. I did the shift lever adjustment per my Hayes manual, and
did the kickdown rod adjustment although the Haynes instruction were rather
ambiguous. There are no fluid leaks, and I put in fresh Mototmaster type H
ATF as stated in the Haynes manual.
If anyone has had similar problems, or can shed any light on where I
screwed up. PLEASE reply!
Thanks, Tom (A hard workin' Canadian Guy)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 1997 12:27:00 -0400
From: "Lou Guerriero"
Subject: Subject: Re: 84 Ranger, 2.3 L and HP?
The Super Chip sounds good. But you do realize that in any other country
than the U.S.A, Premium fuel is pretty much only for the super rich? I
have seen super at over 70 a litre. Translation: $3.00 a gallon!
(roughly). Even unleaded has been climbing like crazy here in Canada. The
Oil companies (Mostly American) blame taxes (which aren't changing) while
prices creep up.
Anyway, what I'm saying is, if there's an upgrade that makes me use
premium, I ain't buying it! Even with exchange, our regular fuel is about
>Also, for Rangers with EECIV engine management, Superchips has a
>performance chip. They claim 5-15% midrange torque increase along with
>5-15 HP increase. Side effect: must run premium gasoline. (Not a downside
>in my book.)
I have an 88' Bronco II and I'm getting water on the floor both sides.
It's not the floor that I can see, as I have had the carpets up, and sealed
any suspicious spots. The winshield was recently (yr ago) replaced, but
that job was redone 3 times due to leaks (morons). Here's the clincher:
under the hood, by the driverside fender/firewall area, is a hollow area...
I can't see inside, but I noticed what looked like garbage bag. I pulled
it out, and a triangular piece of "stuff" came out. It was some sort of
absorbent material, covered in garbage bag type black plastic. The plastic
was torn, and the stuff inside was soaked.
Needless to say, I think this may be the problem. Is this possible that
water is running down the winshield through there into my floor? I did
notice a small amount from the door seal, but I pulled them and silconed
them. Nothing from there so far.
Any ideas? I'm thinking of using some spray can rubberized paint to seal
up in there, since it's hard to reach. I don't know how else to approach
this, unless I'm missing something.
][ No Matter Where you go, there you are! ][
You forgot to hook your vacuum line back up to the modulator valve, or
your modualtor is bad.
Don't know how many miles you have on that C-5, or if it has ever been
worked on, but here is a bit of advice: I think, The C-5 was dropped after
the 84 year because of torque converter problems. The conv. has asbestos
clutches in it for the centrifical lock-up and they are of very poor design.
They will eventually wear out and fill your pan full of "Screen choking"
particals that will clog up resulting in a no-drive condition. The rebuilt
converters for this tranny have the lock-up clutches removed. They look the
same and are also identical to the c-4 converters. It won't do massive
injury to the tranny, but you will have to remove and carefully flush out all
the "MUD" it will leave inside.
If you have over 60,000 miles on this truck it has probably already been
repaired. If not here are the symptoms.
Slow to engage in drive, then after running a few blocks the engine will
feel like it jumped into nuetral (no-drive or reverse). If you turn off the
engine and let it sit a few minutes the tranny will start working again for a
few more blocks untill it unlocks again.
While you drive, the loose particles gather on the screen untill it is
completely clogged and control pressure drops to zero. When you shut off the
engine they fall back into the pan and your pressure will return.
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 1997 13:24:28 -0400
From: Claude King
Subject: 1997 vs 1999 F350 CrewCab7.3L powerstroke
I've been monitoring all the chat about the new fords, looked at the new
photo's on the Powerstroke page, looks like first of October is last order
date for 1997's and 1999 won't deliver until March or April 98.
So my I'd like to hear the pros and cons of buy now or wait, I'll be
ordering not taking a dealer lot truck.
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 1997 13:16:48 -0500 (CDT)
From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Subject: Re: Bronco II Leakage problems....
You (Lou Guerriero) wrote:
> I have an 88' Bronco II and I'm getting water on the floor both sides.
> It's not the floor that I can see, as I have had the carpets up, and sealed
> any suspicious spots. The winshield was recently (yr ago) replaced, but
> that job was redone 3 times due to leaks (morons). Here's the clincher:
> under the hood, by the driverside fender/firewall area, is a hollow area...
> I can't see inside, but I noticed what looked like garbage bag. I pulled
> it out, and a triangular piece of "stuff" came out. It was some sort of
> absorbent material, covered in garbage bag type black plastic. The plastic
> was torn, and the stuff inside was soaked.
Greetings. We ought to get some sort of "known-weakness"'es of the
BII going. I know many of them _WELL_ because that's what I'm patching
and welding now. Let's see:
* Front corners of the roof: stress-point -> paint crack, rust, holes
* Rear hinge area: very high stress-point -> paint crack, rust, holes
* Rear body-frame members bombarded with rocks from wheel well:
abrasion -> paint sand/rock blasted, rust, holes
* Lip of the rear wheel-wells long the top section: if you take off the
inside trim, you will most likely find rust all along the inside edge.
That WILL progress until the rear quarterpanel separates from the
wheel well. Not a FUN fix!
* For some reason, I have several "rust bullseyes" (like some of the Jap
cars get, namely Toyotas)... got the car used, don't blame me!
There is no easy fix - the metal is too thin in places... have to
chop and tack-weld new metal from underneath ... and putty up to
BTW, I discovered a really cool product to help with windshield leaks:
liquid silicone. It flows like hot honey... and seeps into places that
are impossible to seal with anything else. It does wick! Sets up just
like normal silicone! See if your local automotive place stocks this.
For your problem, I'd suspect the first 2. Also, check your fire-wall
for any holes. There should be rubber-plugs on all of them. Does the
steering-linkage have a rubber plug? Sometimes comes out.
Check your front wheel-wells, there are a few weak-points there as well.
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 1997 14:05:03 -0500
From: "Charles A. Biggs"
Subject: Good News!
I have been trying to find a problem with my 4.9L 1990 truck running
rough for more than six months. I have posted a number of times here
related to my search for the problem and this morning I finally found
the culprit. My truck ran rough when it was first started and would
not idle well. When I accellerated it would "bog" down and during
steady speeds it would miss. It was almost dangerous to drive. I tried
all the obvious things (plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter etc.)
with no improvement. On a hunch, my son disconnected the tps yesterday
and I drove it with the computer "estimating" the throttle positions
eventhough the TPS had checked within specs on the diagnostic check.
After disconnecting the tps it seemed to drive much better but it still
idled rough and surged up and down for a few minutes until it warmed
up. This morning I replaced the TPS and it drives like it was brand
I just thought I would pass this on to others who might be having the
I have a 1997 =
Splash with P235=20
/60 R15 tires on it, but am considering changing them for the winter=20
I am curious to what =
would be the best=20
size and type of tires to use, I think I might also try using 14 =
Any Help (or =
experience) would be=20
Thanks from another =
Question: Does an EFI engine have a PCV filter (air breather)? The part
is listed for my vehicle, but after looking in the engine, I don't see one.
I know where they would normally be on a carbuerated engine... but on
EFI?? (if it exists). Haynes shows a carbuerated engine, so it's no help.
I looked at the part, it doesn't seem to resemble those from carb'ed
Thanks for the info....
][ No Matter Where you go, there you are! ][
I don't have a final count nor the comments ready as I've
been working all week (and administering the list from work)
with 78 hours put in so far (good thing I contract!) but
a quick glance at the vote emails shows about an 80% vote
in favor of the split. Voting participation was light,
with less than 100 votes.
I'll have the third list set up within a week, with details
of the list, the vote, etc. published when its all ready...
Lou, the pcv filter is on the left side of the engine if your standing
in front of the vehicle. It is located on the rear of the valve
cover it's under the efi manifold, hard to get to but it's there.
I have a 5.0 litre 1992 F150. Good
On Sat, 13 Sep 1997 20:10:49 -0400 Chris Kelly
>This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>I have seen questions about this before now we can have something done
>about it. Unorthodox racing is willing to make them if I can get 10
>people to put a deposit down! Please read the attachment, and if
>interested send me e-mail and if I get enough responses I will call
>up! I will let you know when we get enough people!
At 07:12 PM 9/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Question: Does an EFI engine have a PCV filter (air breather)? The part
>is listed for my vehicle, but after looking in the engine, I don't see one.
> I know where they would normally be on a carbuerated engine... but on
>EFI?? (if it exists). Haynes shows a carbuerated engine, so it's no help.
>I looked at the part, it doesn't seem to resemble those from carb'ed
On my 1994 Econoline, the breather filter is inside the air cleaner box.
Stop Exchange from Attaching WINMAIL.DAT
Last Modified: 1/6/96
A good way to piss people off on the Internet is to repeatedly fill their mailbox with the useless WINMAIL.DAT
attachments that Microsoft Exchange insists on including. Since Exchange supports rich-text email (bold, italic, multiple
fonts, etc.), and Internet email doesn't, any email sent from Exchange to a non-Exchange mail reader will contain an
Attachment called WINMAIL.DAT. If you use Exchange, you won't see this file, and the message will retain its
formatting. However, it can be confusing for those who don't use Exchange (the majority of the Internet population),
and have no use for this file. Here's how to turn it off:
Double-click on the Mail and Fax icon in Control Panel.
Click on the Services tab, and select Internet Mail from the list. If Internet Mail is not listed, click
Add to add this service.
Click Properties, and then Message Format.
Turn off the option that reads Use MIME when sending messages.
Click OK and then OK again.
Double-click on the name of each recipient in your Address Book.
Turn off the option that reads Always send to this recipient in Microsoft rich-text format.
This option needs to be set for each recipient of a message - if even one has this turned on, all recipients
will still get the attachment.
Note: Either of these methods should work for most users, but sometimes nothing seems to work
- yet another brilliant design strategy by Microsoft. If you plan to be sending lots of internet email, you
should seriously consider using a mail program more suited to the task, such as Eudora.
If you ever intend to pulla 5th wheel trailer the short bed will stop you. I
pull a 5th wheel Avion. I had a short bed and had to trade it for a long
bed. I sold the bed and installed a low profile Reading contractors body.
Fantastic. Lots of bins for fishing equipment and art supplies (wife does
crafts) plus tools, oil etc.
> From: Charles A. Biggs
> To: fordtrucks80up-digest listservice.net
> Subject: Good News!
> Date: Sunday, September 14, 1997 1:05 PM
> I have been trying to find a problem with my 4.9L 1990 truck running
> rough for more than six months. I have posted a number of times here
> related to my search for the problem and this morning I finally found
> the culprit. My truck ran rough when it was first started and would
> not idle well. When I accellerated it would "bog" down and during
> steady speeds it would miss. It was almost dangerous to drive. I tried
> all the obvious things (plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter etc.)
> with no improvement. On a hunch, my son disconnected the tps yesterday
> and I drove it with the computer "estimating" the throttle positions
> eventhough the TPS had checked within specs on the diagnostic check.
> After disconnecting the tps it seemed to drive much better but it still
> idled rough and surged up and down for a few minutes until it warmed
> up. This morning I replaced the TPS and it drives like it was brand
> I just thought I would pass this on to others who might be having the
> same problem.
> Have a good week all!
> Chuck Biggs
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
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