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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 15:47:30 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #285
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, December 30 1997 Volume 01 : Number 285



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Ford Truck Restorations ["Roy Preston" ]
Re[2]: exhaust [bthomas Kollsman.com]
Re: rear axle [rockinghorse webtv.net (Randall Goolsby)]
Exhaust [Gary Spradley ]
Re: high octane burns slower! [Gary Spradley ]
driveshaft bellows [STHIBODE spf.fairchildsemi.com]
new guy, 1999 f250 questions [Daryl.Rue entex.com (daryl rue)]
Thanks for the info ["Casey Vandor" ]
Carpet [CASSIS universal.usa.com (Cassis, John)]
Re: Tonue or Shell for Ranger ["Joe Merchak" ]
RE: Clearance lights [Michael Wray ]
Re: Clearance lights ["Hummer" ]
fog lights ["Randy Kindler" ]
RE: Clearance lights [Michael Wray ]
Re: Clearance lights ["Hummer" ]
'93 Ford F-150 [Scot Bohnenstiehl ]
Please Help me somebody..... ["The Lublin Family" ]
FW: Carpet [Sean Winters ]
Re: Please Help me somebody..... ["Joe Merchak" ]
Re: Exhaust [Randy ]
Re: Thanks for the info [Randy ]
Re: Ranger mileage [bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)]
Re: Please Help me somebody..... [Randy ]
Re: Ranger mileage [FastRngXLT ]
Re: Octane ["Dave Resch"]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 08:46:56 -0500
From: "Roy Preston"
Subject: Ford Truck Restorations

I see many comments concerning newer Ford trucks and problems that are
encountered. How about the "die-hard" resto gurus out there, anyone
working on a project truck / engine. In as much as I will be starting one
shortly on an "85" F-150, I'd like to hear of others who are or have
completed project trucks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 09:15:24 -0500
From: bthomas Kollsman.com
Subject: Re[2]: exhaust

Actually, the best way to find where to put the balance tube is as follows.
1) Spray paint each exhaust pipe from the collector flange back for about
30" or until you encounter the mufflers.
2) Run the vehicle under load (say a 0 - 60 mph pass).
3) Some paint toward the collector will have bubbled and burned off. 4) At
the point where the remaining paint is unburned is where to put the balance
tube.

This is the ideal place to put the tube, but of course there may be many
things in the way to prevent you from doing this. Second best would be to
put the tube as close to these points as possible.

Bob Ford


______________________________ Reply Separator ____________________________
_____
Subject: Re: exhaust
Author: Randy at KOLLSMAN
Date: 12/30/97 7:24 AM




Casey Vandor wrote:
[SNIP]
> > Also, if you are interested in even more torque, install a
> >balance tube between the dual exhaust close behind the
headers (or
> >manifolds) and make it the same size diameter as the rest of
the dual
> >exhaust.
>
> Is a balance tube just a pipe intertied in the two to get rid
of a pressure
> difference? Also, if I get the dual exhaust, they are going
to be on one
> side of the truck only, not both, (both pipes one side, not
one on each) so
> would I still be able to use a balance tube?
> Thanks for the reply!
>
Casey

Casey (at the bat), I don't remember all the reasons that a
balance pipe
produced more torque, but it did have to do w/pressure
equalization and
scavaging of flowing exhaust gases as well as sound waves. I
do
remember there were two reasons to add an 'H' pipe. One was
for torque
and the other for sound control. If you install it just for
sound,
you'll want it to be one size smaller than the exhaust pipes; a
2"
crossover pipe on a 2 1/4" system, for example. I don't
remember your
other posts, but I'm assuming you have a 4x4 and the T-case is
in the
way on the driver's side of the truck therefore forcing you to
run both
pipes down the passenger side. Yes, install a crossover pipe
if you can
get it to fit, and place it close to the ends of the headers if
you can
fit it around everything (4-5" from ends of collectors), or if
you are
still running manifolds (then get headers...I assume you
already have),
just after the exhaust pipes bend out near the frame since you
can't
place it any closer. It's up to you whether or not you want to
run the
system all the way back over the axles. I would do it just for
the
aesthetics alone. Btw, so far I have assumed that you have a
stock
motor, but I don't remember what you said. This set-up would
be great
for a stocker or mildly built motor. Someone mentioned the
friction on
the pipes. This is true, the more surface area involved the
more
'friction-loss' you will experience, but I don't think that the
difference would be significant enough between 2 1/4" duals and
3"
single. If you're worried about it, step up to 2 1/2" duals.
That
would be better for built-up motors, so if you plan on any
engine mods,
step up now, otherwise the dual 2 1/4" (w/H-pipe) or 3" single
should do
ya just fine.
Later,
Randy
+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer
- --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net,
|
| List removal instructions on the website.
|
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
- -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 06:34:09 -0800
From: rockinghorse webtv.net (Randall Goolsby)
Subject: Re: rear axle

Ned,You might want to consider changing that Diff. vent now that the
original has fallen apart,especially if you have 4WD.Find a barb fitting
and screw it in place of your existing vent,attach a hose to it and run
the other hose up to the frame and out of the way.This will enable you
to go through deeper water when and if you ever have to without worrying
about water getting into the diff housing.Ever seen gear oil and water
mixed for a long period of time?Pretty nasty sludge is created,with very
poor(no) lubricating properties remaining.Randy


















------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 08:34:07 -0600
From: Gary Spradley
Subject: Exhaust

Just my two cents but after building a healthy Windsor for my 84 F150, I
was stuck on which size exhaust to run. I ultimately went with headers
and dual 3". After putting the truck in bad places here in Central Alabama,
I can't see how a smaller diameter exhaust could have made enough difference
in torque to matter. My moter is making somewhere around 375 horses and this
may play a role in why it does so well on 3".
The dual 3" is quite difficult to route and takes up more room. I can say
it sounds unlike no 2 or 2 1/2" exhaust I've ever heard, just ask my
neighbors. hehe

Gary Spradley 84F150 4X4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 08:42:45 -0600
From: Gary Spradley
Subject: Re: high octane burns slower!

The Jan 98 edition of Popular Hot Rodding has a nice article on Fuel.


Quotes from this article:

"Octane is a measurement of a fuel's resistance to ignition"
"The burn rate of a fuel is a measurement of the time required for complete
combustion of the air/fuel mixture. The notion that octane ratings affect
the burn rate of fuel is about 180-degrees from reality. Burn rate is a
function of several variables, and the two are completey independent,
although there is generally a correlation between octane ratings and burn
rates."

A representative from Sunoco Race Fuels explains, "A perfect example is
Sunoco Maximal, which is our fastest burning fuel, and coincidentally one of
Sunoco's highest octane fuels at 116 (R+M)/2."
He goes on to explain this type of fuel is necessary to achieve complete
combustion when turning 9,000 rpm or more.
I realize that most truckers will never turn their motors that high but
nevertheless, it's an interesting article.

Gary Spradley 84 F150 4X4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 10:40:53 -0500 (EST)
From: STHIBODE spf.fairchildsemi.com
Subject: driveshaft bellows

My lubed for life (factory ungreasable) u joints on my
front driveshaft finally died and turned to dust,
literally....I'm changing them out tomorrow. This front
shaft on my 85 F250 has the slip shaft with the rubber
bellows on it and I would like to service the slip shaft
while I have the d/s out. Is there any good advice out
there for this, what type of lube, can I trash the cover
and put on the standard seal that can be greased...any
ideas or been there done that stuff would be
appreciated...

thanks,
Steve T.
3 Ford trucks in the corral

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 10:32:03 -0500
From: Daryl.Rue entex.com (daryl rue)
Subject: new guy, 1999 f250 questions

I am going to be ordering a new 99 f250 hear on Jan 2nd. Unless the pricing is
held up any further(I guess ford says that is the day). I have several
questions that I will throw out.

How can I find out what invoice price is, since I am ordering so soon, and few
will be familiar with correct pricing when it comes out?

What will the gas mileage be on the new v-10 as compared to the 460(I heard v10
10% better but no source given, little skeptical)? How about new v-8. Or how
can I find out. How much does 4X4 affect this. Mainly, how much better is the
v8 Vs the v10.

What is the best vendor available that will have toppers ready to deliver, by
vehicle delivery date, I know "ARE" has some available but I like the one that
removes the tailgate(which will not be available for 6months or so)? What is
better, the boot to the cab or dual sliding windows. I want the kids to be able
to crawl between. How practical are the flip up windows, do they get used? Can
a 5'6" guy reach in there on a 4*2 or 4*4?

Is it true that you cannot get power windows and locks with the xl, just xlt?

How much longer are the crew cab 8ft box models than the 97's? I read that the
rear cab legroom is increased by 4"'s and the front something by 1.6"'s and the
older model just fits in the garage.

If I want the bumpers the same color as the truck what is the best way to go
about it?

Are the aluminum rims that are shown on the 98/99 towing guide the ones that
come with the xlt preferred equipment package?

Figured I would ask them all, maybe you can help, maybe not.

Thanks,

Daryl Rue, Omaha Nebraska. Trying to make room for the kids powered jeep they
got for Christmas. Worked on the wife anyway!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 08:43:42 -0900
From: "Casey Vandor"
Subject: Thanks for the info

Thanks to all who replied about the exhaust setup. I think I am going to
stick with a single 3 inch pipe, and a nice muffler. Should sound much
better than those godawful POS glasspacks that were on it (even when they
still packed inside they sounded like s$&t). ANyway thanks for telling me
my options, made the choice a little easier to make.
Casey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 97 11:02
From: CASSIS universal.usa.com (Cassis, John)
Subject: Carpet

Does anybody know where (other than the dealer) I could get a rubber
floor kit for my truck and what it might cost. I have carpet and am very
much an outdoors person. The carpet just gets thrashed. I've seen the
full size trucks with rubber floors and my old 80' Courrier had it and I
loved it. You could just scrub it clean with soap and water. No big deal.
Anyway thanks for any input here.

John Cassis
The Danger Ranger
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 13:17:17 -0500
From: "Joe Merchak"
Subject: Re: Tonue or Shell for Ranger

oxygenated gas is a chemical they put in the winter time to help with the
emission levels. It mostly robs power and mileage.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Midwest96
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Tuesday, December 30, 1997 2:26 AM
Subject: Re: Tonue or Shell for Ranger


>In a message dated 97-12-29 16:54:48 EST, you write:
>
>
>and >>
>
>What's oxygenated gas?
>
>Craig {Midwest96 aol.com|
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 10:15:20 -0800
From: Michael Wray
Subject: RE: Clearance lights

Randy,

I think your right.... They are just plain glued together. I looked
for the little tabs on the cover that would fit into the base
somewhere... But there are none. Which I found strange. :|

So I guess I'll just start prying and hope for the best. hahahahaha


Thanx to all who replied.
Michael (craaaaaacckk!.... oppsss) W.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 14:11:57 -0500
From: "Hummer"
Subject: Re: Clearance lights

I've been watching your plight with some interest, as my clearance
lights are a snap to get at. Are there several different types or what ? I
missed what year model you have, mine is a '97 crewcab so it may be
different. I just unscrew the two screws outboard of the light itself and
turn the things over, theres the bulb. Then screw the whole assembly back
in.

Hummer

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Wray
To: 'fordtrucks80up ListService.net'
Date: Tuesday, December 30, 1997 13:05
Subject: RE: Clearance lights


>Randy,
>
> I think your right.... They are just plain glued together. I looked
>for the little tabs on the cover that would fit into the base
>somewhere... But there are none. Which I found strange. :|
>
>So I guess I'll just start prying and hope for the best. hahahahaha
>
>
>Thanx to all who replied.
>Michael (craaaaaacckk!.... oppsss) W.
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 12:55:32 -0700
From: "Randy Kindler"
Subject: fog lights

Some one told me that the factory wiring harness is in place for fog lights
on my '95 F150, and all I would have to do is connect to this wiring to add
lights. Is anyone familiar with this. I didn't see any spare wires behind
the bumper. I haven't had the dash apart yet to look there. I don't remember
seeing any factory fog lights on F series trucks, except the Lightning.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 12:03:08 -0800
From: Michael Wray
Subject: RE: Clearance lights

Very interesting. Since the base of the lights are sealed to the top
of the cab, I never thought of pulling hard enough to get them off.
Since it is an '86, it could be that the gasket is just so old it has
melded itself with the top of the cab. :) hahahahaha

But I will look into this option also. Thanx.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 15:19:36 -0500
From: "Hummer"
Subject: Re: Clearance lights

Yeah, when they've been on there a while they're stuck on with that
fine gumbo that builds up. I soak it with HOT soapy water on a rag for
about ten minutes and then it gives way. I have an old truck I keep around
for when I want to torture myself and it may well fall apart if I got rid of
all the gunk.

Hummer

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Wray
To: 'fordtrucks80up ListService.net'
Date: Tuesday, December 30, 1997 14:51
Subject: RE: Clearance lights


>Very interesting. Since the base of the lights are sealed to the top
>of the cab, I never thought of pulling hard enough to get them off.
> Since it is an '86, it could be that the gasket is just so old it has
>melded itself with the top of the cab. :) hahahahaha
>
>But I will look into this option also. Thanx.
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 12:22:11 -0800
From: Scot Bohnenstiehl
Subject: '93 Ford F-150

I got a '93 Ford F-150 XL (2W, inline 6) and I was wondering if anyone else
on this mailing list has one or if anybody knows of any web sites devoted
to this truck. I'm interested in what kind of problems other people have
had with it and things they have done to improve the truck. Just e-mail me
at bohnenst inreach.com (cut and paste) unless you think it needs to be in
the digest. Right now I'm trying to learn everything about this truck.

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 15:31:04 -0500
From: "The Lublin Family"
Subject: Please Help me somebody.....

Hi all:

I am still battling electrical problems on the '81 Ford. Here is the story: The tail lights, parking lights, dash lights and
license lights are really screwy here. I replaced the fuse that controls these circuits and I started the truck up and let it
run for about 10 minutes. I turned these lights on and they worked fine. Well I took it for a road test and it worked fine
till I got about 1mile up the road the dash lights started flickering, the tail lights went out, and my alternator belt started
squealing like crazy. Well I pulled into a parking lot and and turned my lights back on. I walked to the back of the truck
and my tail lights and license plate lights were out. I hit up against the side of the truck and one tail light and both
license plate lights went on. The tail light that came on was the driver's side one. I then went back on the road on the way
home, and turned my lights back on. They worked fine for a few seconds then my alternator belt started squealing, and my dash
lights started flickering and the tail lights went back out. Well I shut my lights off and drove home with my flashers on.
Could somebody please help! I don't know a thing about electrical systems. HELP!
Thanks.

Chris "Lube" Lublin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 14:56:01 -0600
From: Sean Winters
Subject: FW: Carpet

J.C. Whitney. Think it is about $80...maybe more for extend cab.

Sean

> -----Original Message-----
> From: CASSIS universal.usa.com [SMTP:CASSIS universal.usa.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 1997 5:02 AM
> To: fordtrucks80up listservice.net
> Subject: Carpet
>
>
> Does anybody know where (other than the dealer) I could get a rubber
>
> floor kit for my truck and what it might cost. I have carpet and am
> very
> much an outdoors person. The carpet just gets thrashed. I've seen the
>
> full size trucks with rubber floors and my old 80' Courrier had it and
> I
> loved it. You could just scrub it clean with soap and water. No big
> deal.
> Anyway thanks for any input here.
>
> John Cassis
> The Danger Ranger
> 93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer
> --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net,
> |
> | List removal instructions on the website.
> |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
> -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 16:41:29 -0500
From: "Joe Merchak"
Subject: Re: Please Help me somebody.....

The squealing is from the belt being loose. When you turn our lights on you
put a very big load on the battery, this requires the alternator to work
harder to recharge the battery. As for the lights, did you ever check the
connector at the rear of the truck. This connector is so the plant can
install the wiring harness to the frame. Then later all they need to do is
bolt the bed on and plug in the lights. It should be near the back bumper.
This area get allot of crap thrown into it so it could be that.

Hope this helps

- -----Original Message-----
From: The Lublin Family
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Tuesday, December 30, 1997 3:38 PM
Subject: Please Help me somebody.....


>
>
>
>Hi all:
>
>I am still battling electrical problems on the '81 Ford. Here is the
story: The tail lights, parking lights, dash lights and
>license lights are really screwy here. I replaced the fuse that
controls these circuits and I started the truck up and let it
>run for about 10 minutes. I turned these lights on and they worked fine.
Well I took it for a road test and it worked fine
>till I got about 1mile up the road the dash lights started flickering, the
tail lights went out, and my alternator belt started
>squealing like crazy. Well I pulled into a parking lot and and turned my
lights back on. I walked to the back of the truck
>and my tail lights and license plate lights were out. I hit up
against the side of the truck and one tail light and both
>license plate lights went on. The tail light that came on was the
driver's side one. I then went back on the road on the way
>home, and turned my lights back on. They worked fine for a few seconds
then my alternator belt started squealing, and my dash
>lights started flickering and the tail lights went back out. Well I shut
my lights off and drove home with my flashers on.
>Could somebody please help! I don't know a thing about electrical
systems. HELP!
>Thanks.
>
>Chris "Lube" Lublin
>
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 17:54:14 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Exhaust

Gary Spradley wrote:
>
> Just my two cents but after building a healthy Windsor for my 84 F150, I
> was stuck on which size exhaust to run. I ultimately went with headers
> and dual 3". After putting the truck in bad places here in Central Alabama,
> I can't see how a smaller diameter exhaust could have made enough difference
> in torque to matter. My moter is making somewhere around 375 horses and this
> may play a role in why it does so well on 3".
> The dual 3" is quite difficult to route and takes up more room. I can say
> it sounds unlike no 2 or 2 1/2" exhaust I've ever heard, just ask my
> neighbors. hehe
>
> Gary Spradley 84F150 4X4
>

Yeah, Gary a motor nearing 400 horses should have a minimum of 2 1/2",
that dual 3" is probably about perfect for your machine. I think I
should make the point that the exhaust someone chooses is on an
individual basis, meaning you have to take into account what mods you've
done to the truck, how you plan to drive it, is hp or torque more
important to you, and where (RPM range) do you want your 'powerband' to
be. Obviously a muscle car would be interested more in straight duals
w/large O.D. pipes and mufflers, where a torque monger (sp?) would be
more interested in a crossover pipe and slightly smaller pipes then the
hp guy. Did you route the 3" yourself? I know that my local shop said
they didn't even want to bend 2 1/2" over my rear axle, can you see me
asking them for 3"....hehehe. Do you have the 351W? If so, what brand
of headers did you go with? How have they held up? I live in snow
country and they would have to put up w/road salt, yech! I'll bet that
truck sounds sweet.
Later,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 18:00:22 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Thanks for the info

Casey Vandor wrote:
>
> Thanks to all who replied about the exhaust setup. I think I am going to
> stick with a single 3 inch pipe, and a nice muffler. Should sound much
> better than those godawful POS glasspacks that were on it (even when they
> still packed inside they sounded like s$&t). ANyway thanks for telling me
> my options, made the choice a little easier to make.
> Casey

Casey, I'm glad to see you're not sticking w/glass packs! This design
has been around for awhile now and can sound sweet when bolted to the
right set-up. However, muffler design has come a LONG way since then
and actually, the glass packs rob you of power. Yes, I said rob you. A
ton or R&D has gone into today's higher flow, nice sounding mufflers.
Now they (mfgs.) understand how to reduce sound, maintain the correct
amount of backpressure but get the least amount of restriction all at
the same time. They are now longer just tubes w/packing and/or almost
randomly placed baffles in them to make it quieter.
Keep me posted Casey, I'd like to know how that truck runs after the
switch.
Later,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 16:04:22 -0600
From: bmrickman juno.com (brian k rickman)
Subject: Re: Ranger mileage

On Tue, 30 Dec 1997 00:26:15 EST FastRngXLT writes:
>In a message dated 97-12-29 17:35:18 EST, you write:
>
>
> mileage was replacing the spark plugs. (with Autolite platinum) Good
>for
> about 2mpg at the time. Oh yeah, its got the "god I hope it n >>
>
> Umm. I thought that Autolites and Motorcraft were the same thing. I
could be wrong.
>+--------------
It seems to me that Autolite may be marketed more towards aftermarket
than factory replacement. May irk c*e*y owners to see Motorcraft on
their trucks. :-) I've heard that Autolite is better (probably more
marketing propaganda) and I'm happy with them. The money proably goes in
the same pocket anyway.


B Rickman bmrickman juno.com
91 Exp 4X4 EB
81 F100 2wd 351w AOD

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 18:12:57 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: Please Help me somebody.....

The Lublin Family wrote:
>
> Hi all:
>
> I am still battling electrical problems on the '81 Ford. Here is the story: The tail lights, parking lights, dash lights and
> license lights are really screwy here. I replaced the fuse that controls these circuits and I started the truck up and let it
> run for about 10 minutes. I turned these lights on and they worked fine. Well I took it for a road test and it worked fine
> till I got about 1mile up the road the dash lights started flickering, the tail lights went out, and my alternator belt started
> squealing like crazy. Well I pulled into a parking lot and and turned my lights back on. I walked to the back of the truck
> and my tail lights and license plate lights were out. I hit up against the side of the truck and one tail light and both
> license plate lights went on. The tail light that came on was the driver's side one. I then went back on the road on the way
> home, and turned my lights back on. They worked fine for a few seconds then my alternator belt started squealing, and my dash
> lights started flickering and the tail lights went back out. Well I shut my lights off and drove home with my flashers on.
> Could somebody please help! I don't know a thing about electrical systems. HELP!
> Thanks.
>
> Chris "Lube" Lublin
>
Well Lube, sounds like it's time for a new belt. That won't cure your
flickering lights, but it will help out the electrical system alot,
especially the battery. I'd have to say you're looking at a short
somewhere. Has anyone ever hooked a trailer pig-tail to the system? If
your taillights keep dieing, crawl under the rear bumper and see if
anyone has ever cut into the electrical wires. This could be one
problem. Whatever it is sounds like vibration brings out the culprit.
Apparently if you turn on the lights and they all come on with the truck
not running and sitting still, they will stay on, but you didn't state
that for sure. You can be pretty sure that it isn't a wire going to any
one individual light, but a power source for all of them, even though
only one light came on after hitting the side of the truck (unless, of
course, it's a wire to each and every light, but doubt that). Start at
the taillights and trace the wires back to the front. There will
probably be places where you can't see the wire due to obstructions, but
look at the wiring wherever you can for any fraying, cuts, nicks, scraps
(even if it's just the insulation). This is not a garuantee that you'll
find the short, if there is one, since the wires could be broken inside
the insulation. Look elsewhere like near the fusebox for any evidence
of the previous owners tampering w/the electrical wires going to the
lights.

Have fun!!!
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 17:20:13 EST
From: FastRngXLT
Subject: Re: Ranger mileage

In a message dated 97-12-30 17:17:17 EST, you write:

writes:
>In a message dated 97-12-29 17:35:18 EST, you write:
>
>
> mileage was replacing the spark plugs. (with Autolite platinum) Good
>for
> about 2mpg at the time. Oh yeah, its got the "god I hope it n >>
>
> Umm. I thought that Autolites and Motorcraft were the same thing. I
could be wrong.
>+--------------
It seems to me that Autolite may be marketed more towards aftermarket
than factory replacement. May irk c*e*y owners to see Motorcraft on
their trucks. :-) I've heard that Autolite is better (probably more
marketing propaganda) and I'm happy with them. The money proably goes in
the same pocket anyway.
>>

I used Split Fire as a performance alternative on my 96' Ranger with a 3.0L
V6 and they we nothing but a hassle.. I think I got 12,000 miles out of 'em.
I replaced them with Autolights and have had 30,000 trouble free miles so far
out of them.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 15:43:39 -0700
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Octane

>From: rsmall isgroup.net (Robert Smallwood)
>Subject: Octane
>snip
>
>Higher octane fuels have a "higher" flash point (ignites at a
>higher temperature). During the compression stroke of an

Yo Robert:

Octane is simply defined as a gasoline fuel's ability to resist spontaneous
(not spark induced) ignition. There is no direct correlation between
octane and flash point or octane and specific energy (energy/mass).

The flash point of gasoline is determined by the particular combination of
organic compounds present in the fuel (i.e., the formulation). Typical
gasoline contains about 30 different organic compounds, plus other
chemicals. Some of these are the major energy components of the fuel
(hydrocarbons like heptane and iso-octane) and others are additives for
regulatory pollution control (oxygenated hydrocarbons like ethanol), octane
enhancement, or other fuel performance reasons (such as fuel system
cleansing or anti-corrosive treatments).

The fuel's formulation can be (and is often) adjusted at the refinery for
various reasons, including point emissions (i.e., pollution from the
refinery) and seasonal temperature changes. For example, boiling point is
another factor affected by the fuel formulation. Boiling point it is
adjusted up in the summer to prevent vapor lock problems, and down in the
winter to maintain driveability (proper vaporization at lower ambient air
temperatures).

> The higher octane fuels actually
>have more available energy to convert than lower octane
>fuels. However, the engine must be constructed to be able
The energy content of a fuel is measured as specific energy, which is the
energy output per unit mass of fuel. For example, kilocalories per
kilogram (darn metric stuff!).

Nowadays, most of the same oxygenated hydrocarbons used for pollution
control (ethanol, methanol, MTBE, TAME, etc.) are also used for octane
enhancement, since they are considered less toxic than previously-used
volatile organic compounds (VOCs) and tetra ethyl lead.

Oxygenated hydrocarbons have a lower specific energy than the "pure"
hydrocarbons used to make up most of the content of gasoline (heptane and....

---

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