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Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 03:50:21 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #255
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Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, December 8 1997 Volume 01 : Number 255



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

gas prices [tfam swbell.net]
engine break-in [Danny Gaudenti ]
Re: engine break-in ["Scott C. Pollins" ]
Re: CD changer [Dave Armbruster ]
87 Ranger bed ruined [Nathan Heid ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #253 [Randy ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #254 [Randy ]
Re: CD changer ["R.L.H.O." ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #253 ["R.L.H.O." ]
Fuel Injectors [bill gibson ]
Re: CD changer [silent.bob juno.com]
Re: CD Changer [silent.bob juno.com]
Re: CD changer [silent.bob juno.com]
AM Radio Interference [johnmck juno.com (John R. McKee)]
Re: engine break-in [george cummings ]
Question for the Lightning owners [Ken Payne ]
Re: Fuel Injectors ["Ryan Penner" ]
need 302 5.0 parts [Michael Ruth ]
Re: Question for the Lightning owners [Bob ]
Re: Fuel Injectors [bill gibson ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 09:40:42 -0800
From: tfam swbell.net
Subject: gas prices

I was in St.Joseph, Mo. for a job last week, the company E-250 was
running low so I pulled into the Phillips 66, found 88 octane for
1.03/gal. (the 300 I 6 preferes 88 or above, knocks pretty bad on 87
octane.) The same station had 87 octane for .98/gal. An independet
station next to the `66` had 87 oct. for .97/gal. That company van has a
34 gallon tank, wish I had two of them in my F-250hd (97). Propane fuel
was mentioned, I am interested in a dual fuel setup, Who supplies
parts/kits, what does it cost, do they have them for the f.i. engines,
and does ford still honor the warranty on the engine after any such
conversions? thankyou. L.D. in K.C.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 09:07:08
From: Danny Gaudenti
Subject: engine break-in

What is the best way to break-in a new engine? I'm asking because we have
a '98 F150 on order (scheduled delivery: "week of 12-7-97") and I want to
treat it right for the beginning of it's life. I don't mind a little
inconvenience at first if it will be good for the life of the engine.

I looked at an owner's manual at the dealer and it just says "vary engine
speed". The owner's manual for the car the F150 is replacing (which I
didn't buy new) says: Drive moderately during the first 300 miles. After
50 miles, speeds up to 50 or 60 MPH are desirable. While cruising, brief
full-throttle accelerations contribute to a good break-in. My wife's '85
Camry owner's manual: Do not drive over 55 MPH. Maintain engine speed
between 2000 and 4000 RPM. Avoid full-throttle starts. Do not drive
slowly in high gear. Vary engine speed. Do not tow.

Does any of the above apply to the truck? Am I being too cautious? Should
I just drive it and not worry about a formal break-in?

Thanks for any help,

Dan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 12:22:37 -0500
From: "Scott C. Pollins"
Subject: Re: engine break-in

Dan,
That is a good question and one I have asked for years with no satisfactory
answer. One school of thought is the term "break-in" is a relic that has
been around from the early days of production automobiles. When engines
began to be mass produced machining technologies were not as advanced as
they became in the mid-70's. Therefore, modern day engines do not need a
rigorous/scheduled break in period as they did in the past. With current
computerized machining and the coupled with statistical process control
much closer tolerances can be held in production and an engine needs little
time to break in.

I still believe that using common sense with a new engine and a early oil
change (shortly after the first 1000 miles) is perhaps an effective method
for you new vehicle

Congratulations on your new truck and good luck with it!

Scott




At 09:07 AM 12/7/97, you wrote:
>
>What is the best way to break-in a new engine? I'm asking because we have
>a '98 F150 on order (scheduled delivery: "week of 12-7-97") and I want to
>treat it right for the beginning of it's life. I don't mind a little
>inconvenience at first if it will be good for the life of the engine.
>
>I looked at an owner's manual at the dealer and it just says "vary engine
>speed". The owner's manual for the car the F150 is replacing (which I
>didn't buy new) says: Drive moderately during the first 300 miles. After
>50 miles, speeds up to 50 or 60 MPH are desirable. While cruising, brief
>full-throttle accelerations contribute to a good break-in. My wife's '85
>Camry owner's manual: Do not drive over 55 MPH. Maintain engine speed
>between 2000 and 4000 RPM. Avoid full-throttle starts. Do not drive
>slowly in high gear. Vary engine speed. Do not tow.
>
>Does any of the above apply to the truck? Am I being too cautious? Should
>I just drive it and not worry about a formal break-in?
>
>Thanks for any help,
>
>Dan
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| List removal instructions on the website. |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 10:43:35 -0700
From: Dave Armbruster
Subject: Re: CD changer

>
>Do you know whether the cables needed comes with the changer package or
>not?
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Rodrigo

I didn't think to ask them that, but for $400 I would hope that they could
see fit to throw in a cable, particularly since it's probably not
"standard", thus widely avaliable. Although, by the same token, they've
already got you if you want to do a factory-look upgrade, so whats another
$10?

BTW, the changer fits well into the compartment between the bucket seats,
if you've upgraded from the split bench. I saw a '97 Explorer with the
changer. The changer was sitting parallel with the doors, along the
passenger's side of the console, with roughly half the console still
available for storage. The inside looked a little different than mine. I
didn't notice exactly why, but I don't think it had the slots for cassettes
that mine has, which would be useless with the changer in there anyway.

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 14:16:34 -0500
From: Nathan Heid
Subject: 87 Ranger bed ruined

Last night I was stopped at the bottom of a hill in my 87 Ranger when I
struck by a 92 Ranger. The 92's front corner hit my rear corner. The
bumper is buckled into the drivers side rear of the bed which is buckled
out at the weel well. the bed was shoved into the cab corner and then
bounced back but not to it's normal place. The floor of the bed is buckled
such that the tailgate doesn't open more than a third.
The other driver is at fault and insured but I have some concerns about
repairs. I belive the bed and tailgate are ruined. This truck is rust
free(in Ohio!) and in mint condition so I don't want to part with it. If
the bed has to be replaced, where on earth is anybody going to find a 10
year old Ranger bed that isn't rusty or beat to hell? i don't think there
should be much frame damage if any, since the impact to the bumper was
outboard of the bumper's attach point. The bumper and body seem to have
absorbed the impast.
Has anyone else had to make similiar repairs? What kind of cost estimites
can I expect? What should I look out for? Used parts????

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 15:42:00 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #253

**********
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 07:17:14 -0200
> From: "R.L.H.O."
> Subject: CD changer
>
> I'd like to buy a Ford CD changer for my 97 Ranger XLT Std. Cab.
> Is it the original Ford CD changer the only one compatible with the
> Stereo/Cassete player that comes with the
> car ? I wouldn't want to lose its CD functions !
>
> Any help? Any idea about prices or/and where to find it?
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Rodrigo Heitzmann
>
Rod, I would recommend calling the tech guys at Crutchfield
(800-955-3000, very helpful). It's a mail order electronics company,
w/mostly car and home audio. They have a webpage, but I don't know that
it'll do you much good (crutchfield.com). They have some stuff for Ford
factory stereo systems like a special wiring harness to install
aftermarket stereos into autos w/Ford premium sound systems. They have
adapter face plates to install stereos into the new Ford Taurus w/the
climate control cut-outs and graphics. If there's an aftermarket CD
changer that can hook directly w/your Ford unit, they'll know about it.

Later, Randy

**********

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 16:25:07 -0800
From: Randy
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #254

**********
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 12:10:43 EST
> From: Midwest96
> Subject: Re: Brakes
>
> In a message dated 97-12-06 11:04:42 EST, you write:
>
>
> the limit for max. dia.; I replaced both drums, all hardware (except for
> the wheel cylinders), and put aftermarket pads on (performance friction
> maybe - can't really recall) - 59,000 miles now on truck w/ not even the
> hint of similar symptoms.
>
> Eric S. >>
>
> Eric,
>
> Thanks for the info, but I'm really really new at this, could you expand a
> little bit. How would I go about changing hardware, what do I buy how much.
> My truck is 30,400 so I would guess same problem. Again, thanks
>
> Craig (Midwest96 aol.com)
>
Craig, going into something like brake work 'blind' is not a good idea.
Drum brakes are a pretty simple concept that works great. I would
recommend a shop manual before you start. It'll more than pay for
itself w/you doing this one job yourself. Chilton makes manuals for all
types of vehicles, check w/your local parts store and get the one that's
MOST SPECIFIC to your vehicle (by narrowing years and models included in
one manual). Also, buy a brake tool kit for yourself and some brake
cleaner. While drum brake work CAN be done without such a kit, it does
make it much easier. One last thing. I have, over the years, learned
one thing about drum brake work; always do only ONE SIDE AT A TIME.
Remove both drums from the truck, this way if you didn't lay your parts
out correctly on the shop floor, or you forgot which way the pads and
springs and adjusters went together you always have a reference point.
Hope this is your first step on the road to fixing your own truck.

Take care, Randy

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 06 Dec 1997 12:59:00 -0500
> From: Nathan Heid
> Subject: Re: Automotive Propane Availability
>
Nat, I see you attend Case. I too am from the Cleveland area. Enjoying
the snow? hehe. Did you get your Tribe tickets?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 15:57:17 -0500
> From: "The Lublin Family"
> Subject: Ranger woes.
>
> Hi all.
>
> Well Mom's Ranger is up to it again. It is making a clunking noise coming
> from the back of the truck. I thought it was a U-joint going bad, but I
> tested them and they have no play in them. Any suggestions on where it
> Could be coming from?
>
> THanks a bunch.
>
> Chris "Lube" Lublin
>
Chris, are you sure they have no 'play' in them. If they do, it may not
be very much. Troubleshooting time; when does the clunking occur?
When shifting in to gear, or from one gear to another? Do you have ANY
new vibrations at higher speeds. Check those joints again, especially
the rear. If you look close, do you see any shiny metal near the base
of the u-joint cups? While I don't believe in 'shotgun'
troubleshooting, if you've done all your homework and still have two or
three different things that could be causing a problem, start with the
'cheapest' (or most easy to work on). If you just can't figure it out,
it wouldn't hurt to change that $10 u-joint (besides it's easy to do and
would need replaced eventually, anyway). If you need any help on how to
do it just let me know.

Randy

> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 16:04:45 -0500
> From: "The Lublin Family"
> Subject: 85 F-150 Lighting troubles.
>
> Hi all.
>
> I have a 85 F-150 I bought a few months ago. I originally bought it for a
> parts truck for my 81 F-150. Well it turns out the '85 is in better
> shape than the 81 so I got it running and she runs pretty good. I hope to
> drive this truck soon. I am in the process of getting the bugs worked
> out. There is one hurdle that I am stuck on. For lighting all that I
> have are the emergency flashers and a right turn signal. I also have dash
> lights when I turn on my head lamps. That is all I have for lights. The
> heater blower motor and radio dont work either. Does anybody have any
> ideas on what I should check for? Thanks a ton.
>
> Chris "Lube" Lublin.
>
> lublin tir.com
>
Speaking of troubleshooting time! Always start with the simple, stupid
stuff (you know, the stuff you're SURE isn't causing the problem). The
fusebox is a good place to start. Are the fuses there? Are they
blown? Are they the RIGHT SIZE? Let's assume for now those answers are
yes, no and yes, respectively. How about the light bulbs themselves?
You didn't say if the dash lights come on with the parking lights (first
stop [click] on switch), but do they? Always make sure the bulbs that
are in their respective sockets are the ones that are SUPPOSED to be
there. Remember, you have no idea what the guy before you was thinking,
and he could have thrown in one that just 'fit'. I once bought a Trans
Am and 'all' the parking lights (and dash) came on dimly when the brake
pedal was pushed. Upon checking, I found that the guy had put in a
single filament (GM1156?) bulb where a dual filament (GM1157?) was
called for (parking/brake light). The problem was the that the single
filament connection point on the bulb bridged the gap between the double
connectors in the socket on the car causing a short. By the way that
was a great bargaining point for me (I didn't tell him about the light
bulb) Is the radio factory or aftermarket. If it's not factory, pull
it out and inspect the wiring for any disconnections. If the blower
motor is like my '87 (no A/C) it's located on the right - passenger side
(always left and right is while sitting in the driver's seat) and is
very easily accessible. Pull it out and put some juice to it (all the
while keeping your fingers out of it).

Hope you get that worked out,
Randy
'87 F-250 4x4HD
> ------------------------------
**********

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 06:51:50 -0200
From: "R.L.H.O."
Subject: Re: CD changer

That's it Dave ! Thanks a lot.

- ----------
> From: Dave Armbruster
> To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Subject: Re: CD changer
> Date: Domingo, Dezembro 07, 1997 03:43
>
> >
> >Do you know whether the cables needed comes with the changer package or
> >not?
> >
> >Thanks again,
> >
> >Rodrigo
>
> I didn't think to ask them that, but for $400 I would hope that they
could
> see fit to throw in a cable, particularly since it's probably not
> "standard", thus widely avaliable. Although, by the same token, they've
> already got you if you want to do a factory-look upgrade, so whats
another
> $10?
>
> BTW, the changer fits well into the compartment between the bucket seats,
> if you've upgraded from the split bench. I saw a '97 Explorer with the
> changer. The changer was sitting parallel with the doors, along the
> passenger's side of the console, with roughly half the console still
> available for storage. The inside looked a little different than mine.
I
> didn't notice exactly why, but I don't think it had the slots for
cassettes
> that mine has, which would be useless with the changer in there anyway.
>
> Dave
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 06:53:43 -0200
From: "R.L.H.O."
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #253

Thank you Randy. I'll do that.

- ----------
> From: Randy
> To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
> Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #253
> Date: Domingo, Dezembro 07, 1997 09:42
>
> **********
> >
> > Date: Sat, 6 Dec 1997 07:17:14 -0200
> > From: "R.L.H.O."
> > Subject: CD changer
> >
> > I'd like to buy a Ford CD changer for my 97 Ranger XLT Std. Cab.
> > Is it the original Ford CD changer the only one compatible with the
> > Stereo/Cassete player that comes with the
> > car ? I wouldn't want to lose its CD functions !
> >
> > Any help? Any idea about prices or/and where to find it?
> >
> > Thanks all.
> >
> > Rodrigo Heitzmann
> >
> Rod, I would recommend calling the tech guys at Crutchfield
> (800-955-3000, very helpful). It's a mail order electronics company,
> w/mostly car and home audio. They have a webpage, but I don't know that
> it'll do you much good (crutchfield.com). They have some stuff for Ford
> factory stereo systems like a special wiring harness to install
> aftermarket stereos into autos w/Ford premium sound systems. They have
> adapter face plates to install stereos into the new Ford Taurus w/the
> climate control cut-outs and graphics. If there's an aftermarket CD
> changer that can hook directly w/your Ford unit, they'll know about it.
>
> Later, Randy
>
> **********
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 14:52:01 -0800
From: bill gibson
Subject: Fuel Injectors

- -- Greetings
My old diesel (85 6.9)is hammering a bit from 1 cylinder .It's
probably the injector.Can I get by with a single replacement injector or
do you need to do all 8 ?
Needless to say the dealer says all 8.

Cheers
Bill Gibson

L

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 15:37:41 -0600
From: silent.bob juno.com
Subject: Re: CD changer

On Sat, 6 Dec 1997 07:17:14 -0200 "R.L.H.O." writes:
>I'd like to buy a Ford CD changer for my 97 Ranger XLT Std. Cab.
>Is it the original Ford CD changer the only one compatible with the
>Stereo/Cassete player that comes with the
>car ? I wouldn't want to lose its CD functions !
>
>Any help? Any idea about prices or/and where to find it?
>
>Thanks all.
>
>Rodrigo Heitzmann

No. I have a Sony 10 disk changer with a 4 channel amp, all of this with
the stock radio in my 95 Ranger.

silent.bob juno.com
95 Ranger 2.3L, SVO OHC
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordManTed.com (Mustang Site)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 15:59:31 -0600
From: silent.bob juno.com
Subject: Re: CD Changer

On Sun, 07 Dec 1997 01:40:11 -0900 Bob writes:
>Ive got a 95 F-150 Extd cab with the 40/20/40 seat, and I have my
>Pioneer CDX-M30 under the middle (console) seat. It barely sticks out
>the front so its not real noticable to would-be thieves. It doesnt
>get
>smashed if anyone sits there, and hardly ever skips a beat.
>
>My problem was I couldnt find a place to put my amp once I took that
>space up. It sticks out from under the rear bench, and other than
>that,
>there is nowhere I could find to mount it.
>
>Hope this helps,


Well, depending on how big your amp is (size, not watts) You can place it
in the drivers side rear seat well. Other then that, there really isn't
any other place
that is as good as that.



silent.bob juno.com
95 Ranger 2.3L, SVO OHC
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordManTed.com (Mustang Site)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 15:37:07 -0600
From: silent.bob juno.com
Subject: Re: CD changer

On Fri, 5 Dec 1997 15:43:57 -0600 "Grady Byram" writes:
>No answers, further question on this topic. I have a 95 F150 ext.
>cab.
>Has anybody found a location within the this cab style where a changer
>can
>be installed without taking up too much space and still allowing the
>rear
>bench to fold down.
>
>I wish it could be placed under the middle of the front seat (I've got
>the
>40/20/40 seats).

I have my Sony 10 disk changer in a vertical upright position where you
load the
10 disk cartridge from the top, placed between the two seats.

Pro: You can use the seats and Ext. Cab space.
Con: (if you have it) Use of the cargo net on the cab wall is limited.
And you have to be a little bit more careful about dust, dirt, and
sand
getting into your changer.



silent.bob juno.com
95 Ranger 2.3L, SVO OHC
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site)
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordManTed.com (Mustang Site)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 19:01:35 EST
From: johnmck juno.com (John R. McKee)
Subject: AM Radio Interference

I have a 97 F-150 with AM/FM cassette stereo. I get a lot of "noise"
interference on the AM band down near the low end of the scale around 550
AM. It only happens when I press the brake pedal or use the turn signal.
Questions:
1. Does this happen to any of you?
2. Is this normal?
3. Is there anything which can correct it other than not listening to
550 AM?

I haven't gone to the dealer yet. I wanted to wait until I heard from
all you out in Ford Land.

TIA, John

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 18:58:04 -0600
From: george cummings
Subject: Re: engine break-in

Danny Gaudenti wrote:
>
> What is the best way to break-in a new engine? I'm asking because we have
> a '98 F150 on order (scheduled delivery: "week of 12-7-97") and I want to
> treat it right for the beginning of it's life. I don't mind a little
> inconvenience at first if it will be good for the life of the engine.
>
> I looked at an owner's manual at the dealer and it just says "vary engine
> speed". The owner's manual for the car the F150 is replacing (which I
> didn't buy new) says: Drive moderately during the first 300 miles. After
> 50 miles, speeds up to 50 or 60 MPH are desirable. While cruising, brief
> full-throttle accelerations contribute to a good break-in. My wife's '85
> Camry owner's manual: Do not drive over 55 MPH. Maintain engine speed
> between 2000 and 4000 RPM. Avoid full-throttle starts. Do not drive
> slowly in high gear. Vary engine speed. Do not tow.
>
> Does any of the above apply to the truck? Am I being too cautious? Should
> I just drive it and not worry about a formal break-in?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Dan
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
> +----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+


Who cares? When I test drove my truck, I ran everybit of the rpms that
it could do. I drove it very hard the first 2000 miles. My truck didn't
finally break in untill it reached 15,000 miles. Now it runs very good,
and yes I do keep the oil changed often and take care of it. Everybody
treats their car differently.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 21:18:06 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Question for the Lightning owners

Somebody on one of the newsgroups claims the Lightning has
a Thunderbird rear-end. I find this hard to believe. But
never having crawled under one (or paid much attention to
the axle when I behind one) I need the facts from some
owners.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 19:28:23 -0700
From: "Ryan Penner"
Subject: Re: Fuel Injectors

- -----Original Message-----
From: bill gibson
To: ford trucklist
Date: Sunday, December 07, 1997 2:48 PM
Subject: Fuel Injectors


>-- Greetings
> My old diesel (85 6.9)is hammering a bit from 1 cylinder .It's
>probably the injector.Can I get by with a single replacement injector or
>do you need to do all 8 ?
> Needless to say the dealer says all 8.
>
> Cheers
> Bill Gibson
>


How were you able to find out which one was bad?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 22:02:49 -0500
From: Michael Ruth
Subject: need 302 5.0 parts

Hi!
My fathers 1993 F-150 (75k) took a turn for the worse yesterday. All of
a sudden it had a loud knocking, lost oil pressure and started shaking
then it sounded like the inside of the engine started self destructing.
Obviously he shut it off right away. He is very religous about oil
changing, so I know it's not from bad oil sludging up the pump. Has
anyone had this happen? Tomorrow we will pull filter and pan to
investigate, but it's not locked up because it will restart but sound
really bad. I need to know if there are any resonable place to get a
block and necessary parts if the worse is there. How about Ford R and
P? Any ideas???? Thanks! You may respond off list to:
xplorit erols.com

Mike

P.S. I am in Baltimore, Maryland

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 20:28:42 -0800
From: Bob
Subject: Re: Question for the Lightning owners

Ken Payne wrote:

> Somebody on one of the newsgroups claims the Lightning has
> a Thunderbird rear-end. I find this hard to believe. But
> never having crawled under one (or paid much attention to
> the axle when I behind one) I need the facts from some
> owners.
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | List removal instructions on the website. |
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Ken,

I have a '94 Lightning and a while back there was some questions asked
on the Lightning-list about the rear ends. Here's an attached post from
Gary Siegel who was a powertrain engineer for the Lightning program.

Hope this helps....
Bob
'94 Crimson Lightning #767

**********Begin included message************

Subject:
Re: Rear End
Date:
Thu, 9 Oct 1997 22:28:22 -0400
From:
Gary Siegel
Reply-To:
Ford Lightning Discussion List
To:
LIGHTNING-L AMERICAN.EDU
References:
1 , 2




keith wrote:
>
> Glen,
>
> What is different in the Lightning rear ends, just for info sake.
Just
> wondering.
>

Keith,

The synthetic lube isn't required because of something different in the
rear end... It's necessary because the engine is powerful enough to make
it overheat during severe usage with standard axle lube in it... The
axle also has probably 25-30 actual Engineering changes in its
components because each time one was improved the forces (and failures)
were transmitted to the next weakest part... None of these parts had
shown any signs of weakness with any other powertrains before the
Lightning...

Some of them that I remember are the individual gears (machining and
heat treat processes), bearings, gear housing (cooling fins cast into
it), axle shafts (machining revisions, I think), and the axle tubes may
be up-gauged too. The synthetic lube had a maximum operating
temperature spec of 300 degrees F. or so, but the axles actually run at
a max of about 275 degrees with it because of higher lubricity and
greater film thickness. (Standard lube maxes out at around 250 degrees
F, I think, but the actual temperatures were running well over 300
degrees until the lube broke down and the temps skyrocketed until the
axle seized or something melted...)

I hope that answered your question...

Gary Siegel

-----------------------------------

Searchable archives of past postings to LIGHTNING-L are available at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://listserv.american.edu/archives/lightning-l.html

*******end included message*******
- --

*** The ocean washes away all cares
It holds at bay things life ensnares
It gives us peace into the heart
And brings good things till we depart ***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 21:50:28 -0800
From: bill gibson
Subject: Re: Fuel Injectors

Ryan Penner wrote:....


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