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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 03:50:23 -0700 (MST)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #197
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fordtrucks80up-digest Thursday, October 30 1997 Volume 01 : Number 197



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

F-150 with noise in front end ["Leo O'Neill"
RE: RE: throttle body [greg.medert gsa.gov]
Re: tire size question. [Don Vanco ]
Re: All this stuff about high speed in Rangers [Don Vanco
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #195 [Bill Funk ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #195 [Bill Funk ]
Re: throttle body [JOUZA1 aol.com]
1994 F150 with Noise in Front End - Reply [Tony Rio ]
Re: All this stuff about high speed in Rangers ["David J. Baldwin"
Re: Automatic hubs and an embarrassing incident. [Jim Lujan
Explorer (Ranger) tow hook placement [Bob Scola ]
93' STX 4x4 3.0 [CASSIS universal.usa.com (Cassis, John)]
Re: 93' STX 4x4 3.0 [James Forrest ]
Re: 93' STX 4x4 3.0 [john.doe erols.com]
ghost flames ["Melanie Curry" ]
Re: K&N Filter Price for '97 Ranger 4.0 [Dave Armbruster
Re: Spam? [fwise juno.com]
Re: K&N Filter Price for '97 Ranger 4.0 [thomas.panfili snet.net (Tom)]
86 Ranger 2.3 Header [Ron Pike ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 06:54:05 -0500
From: "Leo O'Neill"
Subject: F-150 with noise in front end

Apologies to all. The (Fwd) in my first note means "Forwarded" not
Front Wheel Drive. I've been trying to access this list for weeks and
finally figured that out. Sorry for the confusion. I'll restate my
problem.

I purchased an '94 F-150, 5.0L at an auction and have been noticing
that I get a clunking noise at low speed and/or when turning. It
sounds like something heavy is loose and swinging back and forth.
I've searched for the source and have not been successful.

Anyone have any ideas?

------------------------------

Date: 29 Oct 97 08:33:00 (-0500)
From: greg.medert gsa.gov
Subject: RE: RE: throttle body

- --UNS_gsauns2_2729674429
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 13:40:12 -0500 (EST)
From: JOUZA1 aol.com
Subject: Re: throttle body

I installed a hypertech chip also. I was wondering if i installed it
correctly. W hen you installed it did you notice a huge
diffrence? Because i
did not notice a huge one so did i do somthing wrong or is that what
happens?
The only other mod i made was a k&N. So will i see more results with
other
mods? Also what did the 73 mm mass air sensor do? What is that for
and what
is the hp gain? Is it worth the money? One more quick question. Iam
planing
on going and getting flomaster dual. I know a place near to me that
puts it
on. Can i get true duals with two flowmaster mufflers or do i have to
go
with the one in two out type muffler. With true duals do you use two
cats or
one? What diameter pipe do you use, I want 3 inch is that possible?
Ok so
that is more hat one more question sorry. Thanks f;or taking the time
to
answere my question. Yours truly JOSH 93 4.0

------------------------------

Josh,

I was not too pleased with the Hypertec chip either. Once you put the
new exhaust on you will get more of an improvement from the chip. I
have heard better results from the Superchips chip. Might want to try
to return the chip if not longer than 30 days, some manuf. will let
you return, I know Superchips does. (Superchips did not have one when
I bought mine 6 yrs ago) The mass air measures the temp. and amount of
air coming into the engine. I was pleased with the 73mm mass air but
then again mine had a stock 55mm. This with my custom conical filter
added approx. 10 HP. As far as I know, you only have one oxygen
sensor in the y-pipe, therefore you have to go one in two out. A good
upgrade is also to replace the dual cats with one 3" high flow cat (If
more than 60,000 miles, by law). The 3" pipe will fit but the outlet
of the 2nd cat is only 2-1/4, major adapter required. I would go with
2-1/2 in, dual 2" out flowmaster unless you plan to go with a
supercharger, then go with the 3". It is my opinion that 3" is too
large for the 4.0 since it runs so lean anyway, 3" might scavenge the
cylinders too much. Hope this helps. If interested I could send you
directly the pics of my custom adapter.

greg.medert gsa.gov
Atlanta, Ga

- --UNS_gsauns2_2729674429--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 09:40:22 -0500
From: Don Vanco
Subject: Re: tire size question.

Each 1" change in tire height =3D ~3 mph change on the speedo - better look
into a new driven gear for the speedo cable...
Don
BTW - Taller =3D Better mileage, but your odometer will be seriously lagging
reality.
At 12:26 PM 10/28/97 -0800, jayvanv teleport.com wrote:
>
>Does anyone have any chart or information regarding what modifications are
>needed to put taller tires on an 88 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab? it has the
>trailer/camper package and 8800 GVW with 3.54 rear end and has the stock
>235/85-16 tires. I am considering going to 285/75-16 which according to
>the tire shop are 3" taller (34" total). I'm not sure if this would help
>or hurt my fuel mileage but I know it would drop the RPM a bit on my 7.3
>diesel at freeway speeds.=20
>
>I also know that the taller tires only come in an 8ply rating so I need to
>make sure that the weight of my camper and bike trailer will be within
>specs for the weight capacity of the tire. I was hoping the tires cam in a
>10ply rating in the taller sizes but the tire shop said no..=20
>
>any insight/answers/advice/comments most appreciated!
>
>..Jay =20
>
>=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=
=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=
=B0
>=20
> jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
>=20
>=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=
=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=
=B0
>=20
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 09:48:14 -0500
From: Don Vanco
Subject: Re: All this stuff about high speed in Rangers

Over 400 years ago Nostradamus predicted I will write:
Although I believe this thread should die a peaceful death as it is nil in
content and fraught with opinion - I'll still throw in my $.02!!

I've routinely seen 120 mph+ in my 1996 Cobra and have every confidence in
both it's ability & mine. To go & more importantly to stop! As someone
mentioned - the danger in these situations is not what I do with my vehicle
- - it's what Joe Bagadonuts does with his. Any multiple of the posted speed
limit in even a "moderate" traffic situation is asinine - take it to the
track....
Don

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 07:50:58 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #195

> From: David Hertzberg
> Subject: Fan clutch, one more time
>
> Thanks Bill for the insights. Just to clarify: are you saying that
> whether the
> engine is hot or cold, i should be able to *move* the fan
> (irrespective of whether
> it is hard or easy to move), period? Using all the force I can
> muster, I am unable
> to move it *at all* either first thing in the morning or just after
> shutting down
> the engine after a long drive, i.e., there is no slippage at all at
> any time. At
> the same time, the cap is fine, there are no leaks, hoses are all new,
> water pump
> works fine, and I never even get close to overheating, either on the
> highway, heavy
> throttle, or at idle. Could this be a matter of leave well enough
> alone?? I'm a
> little concerned that if the clutch is bad, and the fan is always
> turning at engine
> speed, the engine will never quite make it to proper operating temp.
> This cannot
> be good. Again, I'd apprecite your feedback. Thanks again. David

Hi, Dave...
A viscous coupling fan clutch should always have some slippage, that's
the way they are.
If you have *NO* slippage, there are a few possibilities; the clutch
could be shot, or there may not be a clutch. Someone may have replaced
the clutch with a solid replacement piece (this is often done by people
who just don't like or trust fan clutches). Did you buy the truck used?
If so, check carefully to make sure there's actually a clutch present.
A locked fan won't keep the engine from warming up if the proper
thermostat is installed, and working properly, so I wouldn't worry about
that. The worry is that, with a locked clutch, the fan may be out of
balance, eventually snapping the pump shaft and allowing that spinning
fan to visit parts of the engine compartment that don't respond well to
such visits. A solid clutch replacement usually doesn't have this
problem, but a locked clutch may be physically broken, allowing the fan
to be tilted, and out of balance.
The clutch replacement piece will provide more positive airflow at all
speeds and temps, but is also more noisy, and will rob the engine of
more power than a clutched fan will. Often, the clutch is the first
thing to go on an engine that's been hopped up, to ensure adequate
cooling.
Hope this helps,
Bill Funk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 08:10:19 -0700
From: Bill Funk
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #195

> From: Thom Cheney
> Subject: Re: Winter Tires ? -> tire sizing info[A]
>
> Geoffrey Hoffman wrote:
> >
> > >>What else can you have beside a radial?
> >
> > i beleive the other main type id B for belted. these are fading,
> though,
> > as radials are superior in many ways.
>
> I have heard, one big advantage to a bias ply tire is in an off-road
> situation. When "aired down" the bias ply side walls remain very
> flexible in relation to their radial counterparts. Also have heard
> that the side walls of the really good bias tires are extremely tough.
>
> Not sure how this would help out in snow driving.
>
> - --
> Thom Cheney

I don't think so.
Radials, because of the way the cords run radially from one bead to the
other, will always have a softer sidewall; you only have to look at the
two tires side-by-side to see the radial sidewall bulges more than the
bias ply tire, which has two or more plies running at an angle from bead
to bead, crossing each other. This makes for a stiff sidewall.
In turns, a radial's soft sidewall will deform more than a bias ply
tire, allowing the tread portion to remain flat on the road surface. The
corollary to this is that when the adhesion limit is reached, the radial
simply lets go, while a bias ply tire loses contact and adhesion
gradually, with more warning. (NASCAR had several interesting races when
they went to radials, while drivers got used to this.)
Snow tires? Since speed in snow should be low anyway, tread design is
much more important than carcass design, IMO. Tall and skinny tends to
concentrate weight in the tread better, and reduce torque available to
reduce slippage a little (I wonder how much?). In snow tires, tread wear
isn't really a large factor (or, shouldn't be), since traction is the
major goal.

Bill Funk

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 10:41:30 -0500 (EST)
From: JOUZA1 aol.com
Subject: Re: throttle body

I would a ppreciat those pic and any others you have on your truck. What is
your toatal hp on you engine? You have been a great help to me thanks for
you time.



Sincerly JOSH

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 10:22:08 -0600
From: Tony Rio
Subject: 1994 F150 with Noise in Front End - Reply

ate: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 09:31:10 -0500
Leo...

I have a '94 F150 also, and get the same noise. According to the tsb,
there is a flange that bottoms out, and by prying it up a little, it will solve
the problem. Open the door, and look through the opening between the
door and the side panel, and you will see the flange. If you want the tsb,
go to any ford dealer, they should be able to print it out for you. My
dealer did this without any trouble

Tony
>From: "Leo O'Neill"
>Subject: (Fwd) 1994 F150 with Noise in Front End
>
> I recently purchased a 1994 F-150 at an auction and have
>noticed that there is a clunking noise that seems to be coming from
>the front end at low speeds and turns. Anyone have any thoughts on
>this.
>
>Also, I've found that there is a service bulletin #962315 that
>describes such a problem and would like to know how I can get a look
>at it. Any ideas?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 10:41:14 -0600
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: All this stuff about high speed in Rangers

Thom Cheney wrote:
>
> Calvin Ford wrote:
> >
> > >From: Jim Perkins
> > >The fact
> > >that you are driving a car designed to safely travel at much faster
> > >speeds (and a Ranger does not qualify here), that it is a clear dry day,
> > >and that there is no one else on the road will get you nowhere.
> >
> > It has gone to court before and the driver has won. Not that it will always
> > work that way.
> >
> The kink in the system is when we encounter someone who is somehow
> impaired in their judgement. My Porsche (like I really have one) may
> be capable of 180 mph, but not when that clapped out Lumina with the
> over-tired, balding (okay, I threw that one in), salesman with the cel
> phone glued to the side of his head swerves into my lane when he drops
> his chai tea latte onto his sansa-belt slacks.

This is the rub: you can't tell what the "other guy" is going to do, or
what physical condition he is in. This is especially true when the
"other guy" is a herd of deer with suicidal tendecies.

I say this from personal experience: deer look amazingly large when
closing in at speeds above 60 MPH! You hit one of those Indiana
corn-fed monsters at 100 MPH in a Ranger and you'll be lucky to live to
tell about it.


- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 10:02:20 -0700
From: Jim Lujan
Subject: Re: Automatic hubs and an embarrassing incident.

Larry,

Real sorry to hear about your breakdown in CO. A guy I know had the
the same problem with his '96 F-250 PS in CO as well. I guess that is
why the call it the Rocky Mountains. Anyway, his automatic hubs
failed on him as well. He did get manage to get out eventually, but
really tore the heck out of his tires doing so. He took it to the
dealer, and they replaced his hubs (I'll check to see if they replaced them
with manuals), *AND* they payed for a large part of replacing the tires
that were damaged due to the hub failure.

I really would check with Ford again with their national Customer Service line.
I can't imagine that if you replace a Ford Automatic Locking Hub with a Ford
Manual Locking Hub that it would void the warranty on the drivetrain.

I would also check with Warn and MileMarker. Sometimes aftermarket products
DO NOT void the factory warranties, and then compare that with the
customer service line. I'm sure that your dealership is a great one, but it
wouldn't hurt to get a second opinion.

Best of luck. Me, I'm still using my autos. Of course, winter hasn't
really hit here yet, and I have had no issues with them when rock climbing.

-Jim-

'97 F-350 PS C-Cab (Banks Stage II Enhanced)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 09:20:37 -0800
From: Bob Scola
Subject: Explorer (Ranger) tow hook placement

>I mounted my tow hook on my 96 ranger on the frame where the bracket
>attaches the bumper onto the frame. It should be the small inlet next
>to the liscence plate bracket and where the valance is. (My valance
was
>actually ripped off when I was being pulled out of mud with the hook)
If
>I am not mistaken, you will need to remove the air scoop directly
behind
>the
> ....

Has anyone mounted tow hooks on an Explorer? Being a real close relative
to the Ranger, the above frame mount could work?.

thanx
Bob
'97 Explorer XLT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 97 11:12
From: CASSIS universal.usa.com (Cassis, John)
Subject: 93' STX 4x4 3.0

I asked this one befor and got no reply on it, so I'll try again. I have
a 93' STX 4x4 with a 3.0 and a 5-speed manual trany. I have a 2 1/2"
Rancho lift to set the front end level with the back. I also have 8"
wheels with 31x10.50's. I have had the truck set up this way for the last
60,000 miles. The setup is great on he bottom end. You can realy stretch
the gears out. I can run up to about 75 or 78 mph in third at about 5300
- 5500 rpms. But the downer is the top end. It realy flattens out in 4th
and 5th gear. Especialy while towing. I never tow in overdrive. But when
I get into the hill country towing my boat it realy becomes a dog. It is
hard to run a consistent speed unless I am running faster than 70mph. So
what would be the better fix:

Re-gearing the truck. It presently has 373's, would putting a higher gear
on it be the ticket. When I had the stock wheels and tires I never had a
problem with the truck lugging so to speek.

or should I go with a K&N filter, a performance chip, and a less
restrictive exhaust system? And if so whick chip and whick exhaust system
works best for the truck?

If any of yall' have had this problem or dealt with it befor I could
realy use some input here. Anyway thanks for the help.

John Cassis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 16:12:05 -0500
From: James Forrest
Subject: Re: 93' STX 4x4 3.0

I added a knfilter to my ranger. It did in fact help. I had a little
more low end power. I bet an exhaust would help better. I am not
really sure, though. I have the same setup as you and would also like
to know. Also, do you have your tires rubbing the extended radius arms
when the steering wheel is turned? I have that problem pretty bad.
James





I asked this one befor and got no reply on it, so I'll try again. I
have
a 93' STX 4x4 with a 3.0 and a 5-speed manual trany. I have a 2 1/2"
Rancho lift to set the front end level with the back. I also have 8"
wheels with 31x10.50's. I have had the truck set up this way for the
last
60,000 miles. The setup is great on he bottom end. You can realy
stretch
the gears out. I can run up to about 75 or 78 mph in third at about
5300
- 5500 rpms. But the downer is the top end. It realy flattens out in
4th
and 5th gear. Especialy while towing. I never tow in overdrive. But
when
I get into the hill country towing my boat it realy becomes a dog. It
is
hard to run a consistent speed unless I am running faster than 70mph.
So
what would be the better fix:

Re-gearing the truck. It presently has 373's, would putting a higher
gear
on it be the ticket. When I had the stock wheels and tires I never had
a
problem with the truck lugging so to speek.

or should I go with a K&N filter, a performance chip, and a less
restrictive exhaust system? And if so whick chip and whick exhaust
system
works best for the truck?

If any of yall' have had this problem or dealt with it befor I could
realy use some input here. Anyway thanks for the help.

John Cassis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 17:30:47 -0500
From: john.doe erols.com
Subject: Re: 93' STX 4x4 3.0

{snip}

>what would be the better fix:
>
>Re-gearing the truck.....
>
>or should I go with a K&N filter, a performance chip, and a less
>restrictive exhaust system?

I beleive the better fix would be to re-gear your truck.

This may be the most difficult solution because the other options are more
do it yourself. A gear change would be the simpliest in that it involves
the least number of changes to your known combination that would achieve
the desired effect. You could go back to your smaller tires to do the same
thing... afterall, what you are really trying to overcome is effect of the
taller tire.

You might also consider the fact that your manual transmission is not
ideally suited to towing. With the automatic you gain the benefit of the
built in slippage of the torque converter. If you haven't noticed, Ford
notes a significant difference in rated towing capacity between the manual
and automatic versions of the same truck.

I believe a gear change (with a new automatic trans) and all the add on
stuff would be the best fix of all.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 20:16:29 -0500
From: "Melanie Curry"
Subject: ghost flames

Help,
I recently purchased a 1997 Ford F-150 in sapphire blue. I would like to
paint ghost flames on the hood and front fenders, but I'm not sure how to
go about doing this. If anyone has any information on how to paint ghost
flames, please let me know or if anyone knows of any publications
explaining this please also let me know of these.
Also, I have a 1976 Ford F-100 XLT which is a show truck. I am constantly
looking for parts information and new ways to improve the appearance of
this truck. If anyone has any info on this I would appreciate it if you
would pass it on.
Thanks,
RLC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 20:35:48 -0600
From: Dave Armbruster
Subject: Re: K&N Filter Price for '97 Ranger 4.0

The part number for mine was E-0995, and I paid $45 at a 4 wheel drive
store who had it in stock. Mine is the stock replacement one, sort of
looks like a cone.

Dave
1997 Ranger S/C 4X4 4.0L

>Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 17:59:54 -0500
>From: "Bryce T. Beyler"
>Subject: K&N Filter Price for '97 Ranger 4.0
>
>I'm looking at getting a K&N Filter for my '97 Ranger 4x4 4.0 this week and
>was wondering what a good price is for this item. I've been quoted $45 for
>one in stock and $37 for one that they could get for me in about 24 hours
>from local shops. Also If anyone has it handy, what is the part number for
>this filter, so the local yahoos don't get me the wrong part.
>
>Thanks,
>Bryce
>
>'97 Ranger XLT 4x4 SuperCab

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 22:13:24 -0600
From: fwise juno.com
Subject: Re: Spam?

As I understand the definition of e-mail spam, it is: the sending of
unsolicited commercial e-mail. I surfed over to his web site, and what he
was pushing was for sale (read, commercial). So, Silent Bob, assuming
that you did not ask for (solicit) this information, yes, you were
spammed.

As for the individual's attempt to justify his spamming, it sounds
suspiciously like the approach that converts to multi-level marketing
(Pyramid scams) use: "Oh, using __________ has changed my life! I'm
telling all my friends about it!" Then they wonder why their friends
don't want to be around them anymore.

Ken (Payne, not the spammer), has this guy been lifting addresses off of
the list? I know that you don't give out list member's addresses, so that
is my assumption. Has anyone else been the victim of this guys stuff?

Thank goodness for moderated forums,

Fred Wise
94 Ranger Supercab

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 04:31:24 GMT
From: thomas.panfili snet.net (Tom)
Subject: Re: K&N Filter Price for '97 Ranger 4.0

The K&N filter is one of the ways to go.Next try an after market kat
back system and a power chip.if you do it all at once you can feel a
BIG difference and better gas mileage. I just did my 94 Splash 4x4,4.0
5spd. Good Luck


On Wed, 29 Oct 1997 20:35:48 -0600, you wrote:

>The part number for mine was E-0995, and I paid $45 at a 4 wheel drive
>store who had it in stock. Mine is the stock replacement one, sort of
>looks like a cone.
>
>Dave
>1997 Ranger S/C 4X4 4.0L
>
>>Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 17:59:54 -0500
>>From: "Bryce T. Beyler"
>>Subject: K&N Filter Price for '97 Ranger 4.0
>>
>>I'm looking at getting a K&N Filter for my '97 Ranger 4x4 4.0 this week and
>>was wondering what a good price is for this item. I've been quoted $45 for
>>one in stock and $37 for one that they could get for me in about 24 hours
>>from local shops. Also If anyone has it handy, what is the part number for
>>this filter, so the local yahoos don't get me the wrong part.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Bryce
>>
>>'97 Ranger XLT 4x4 SuperCab
>
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+....


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