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Return-Path: Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 17:36:46 -0600 (MDT) From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest To: fordtrucks80up-digest Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #177 Reply-To: fordtrucks80up Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest fordtrucks80up-digest Monday, October 20 1997 Volume 01 : Number 177 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks80up-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: OIL (Synthetic + Rant) [David Hertzberg ] RE: What did you say? [David Hertzberg ] RE: Rough idle in 4.0 [greg.medert Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #176 ["Todd A. Muccilli" F-250/F-350 XLT bench seat ["Todd A. Muccilli" ] Re: Crazy ideas ["Bear" ] Re: Crazy ideas [Filip M Gieszczykiewicz ] rear seat xcab help ["Patrick Vanderlind" ] Re: EGR system robbing power? [Bill Funk ] Re: Exhaust [Bill Funk ] Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #176 [Bill Funk ] RE: Dash Gauges and converting [Michael Wray ] Re: rear disk brakes [alanh 10W-30 for diesels [David Hertzberg ] FELP. No power up hill and doesn't stay running [Michael Wray Re: Exhaust ["Mike Wiatt" ] Re: FELP. No power up hill and doesn't stay running [bigguy Crazy ideas that work ["Jeff Wey" ] RE: FELP. No power up hill and doesn't stay running [Michael Wray Dual tank question [Tony Rio ] Re: Dual tank question [Steven McCullough ] 4 cylinder Ranger needs more h.p. [Jake Morvant ] 6.9/7.3 Questions [abbott ] Re: Dual tank question [FOMOCONUT Re: 6.9/7.3 Questions [alanh Smog equipment questions ["Alan Heaberlin" ] Re: FELP. No power up hill and doesn't stay running [FOMOCONUT Re: Dual tank question ["Bruce A. Ramirez" ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Oct 97 05:21:40 PDT From: David Hertzberg Subject: Re: OIL (Synthetic + Rant) Thanks Dave R., Ken, Steve B and others: Thanks for your replies to my original query. Very interesting and informative... I learned a lot. Regards David and Leila Hertzberg Greystoke Farm Gaithersburg, Maryland 301-482-0016 ACdhertz ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Oct 97 05:30:20 PDT From: David Hertzberg Subject: RE: What did you say? FYI, as far as i can tell, the lady in question has activated what's called an "out of office assistant." She has programmed her computer to automatically respond with a canned message to any incoming mail message. > >Something like this happened on another list and folks went crazy... it'll >be interesting to see what happens here. > > > >>I will be away from the office from April 24 through >>April 28. If you are in need of an immediate response >>please contract Kathy Gray at 272-8430 or >>Kgray > ------------------------------ Date: 20 Oct 97 08:34:00 (-0400) From: greg.medert Subject: RE: Rough idle in 4.0 - --UNS_gsauns2_2721953590 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 10:00:33 -0400 From: "Lare/Eric" Subject: Rough Idle - Ranger 4.0L About 8,000 miles ago (59,000 on the truck currently), I noticed that the idle on my '94 Splash 4.0L was beginning to get a bit rough. At the exhaust outlet it almost sounds like a miss of sorts - every two to four seconds it will sort of 'puff'. At about the same time, the temperature gauge begin to cycle from midway to very near the bottom of the gauge. I took it to the dealership and they told me that this was pretty typical for a truck with this many miles on it that was almost four years old - which I expected them to say. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing the rough idle problem, and, could the fluctuating temperature be related, or is it just a coincidence? I haven't gotten into this (or these) problems much yet, since they don't seem to affect the performance or mileage of the truck, although both problems seem to be getting more pronounced. Figured it high time to diagnose this one before I have a serious problem on my hands. Recently, I replaced (as general maintenance) the O2 sensors, PCV, plugs, plug wires, & air filter. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Eric S. - '94 Splash 4x4 4.0L ------------------------------ Eric, had a similar problem with my 91 4.0 except that the rough idle and temperature readings did not occur at the same time. The temperature reading was a bad temp sensor. The rough idle was clogged or dirty injectors. I had the injectors professional cleaned where they disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail and run it off a pressurized tank with injector cleaner. Cost was around $70. You can now hardly hear it idling it so smooth. Hope this helps. greg.medert Atlanta, GA - --UNS_gsauns2_2721953590-- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Oct 97 9:45:57 EDT From: "Todd A. Muccilli" Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #176 Eric S. with the 94 4.0L Ranger-- I have a 92 Explorer that has developed a similar rough idle. It also seems to lose coolant, a bad sign, I know. Fuel economy is in the toilet, about 14 at best around town. I have a feeling it might be the old troubled head or head gasket known to develop in these 4.0Ls. You might want to check your fuel economy and coolant if you haven't already. I also sense a bit of a "sweet" (read antifreeze) odor when the truck is first started at times. I have yet to get it looked at, but will soon. Todd muccilli ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Oct 97 9:49:55 EDT From: "Todd A. Muccilli" Subject: F-250/F-350 XLT bench seat List members, I have a 1997 F-350 4x4 pickup that I bought in late December of last year. About 2 months ago, I had the foam in the XLT bench seat replaced because the wire spring was cutting into it on the corner portion of the driver's side of the seat. I do not hop in and out of the truck like a cowboy, but as you know the truck is tall and I do have to hoist myself up a bit to get in, so I'm sure I slide on it a little bit. Unfortunately, I again noticed little bits of foam underneath the seat today and sure enough--the spring is cutting it again. Has anyone else had this problem? I can't believe that I am abusing the seat this much by getting in and out to cause the foam to deteriorate so quickly. I am starting to suspect that maybe the spring is not properly tensioned or that there is something else at fault. I don't know how many more seats Ford will replace before they start blaming me. Thanks in advance for any help, Todd muccilli ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 09:03:41 -0500 From: "Bear" Subject: Re: Crazy ideas Try filling the empty cavities of your vehicles with a product called "Great Stuff" it should be sold in the home repair area at Wal-mart for about $3 per can. I have a 78 f-150 and was trying to hold the noise from the stereo inside the cab. I used one can to fill the cab corners from the bottom of the cab to the strike plate for the door latch. It is a foaming insulation and it hold sound in/out well. Just another thought.... - -----Original Message----- From: Steven McCullough To: fordtrucks80up Date: Sunday, October 19, 1997 9:39 PM Subject: Crazy ideas >I was thinking the other day about adding some more sound deadening >material to >my truck and my wifes car since we both do a good bit of highway driving and >the noise gets to us after a while (especially now that the speed limit is >70 MPH) > >I've discovered that that dynomat stuff is outrageous in price, but all this >talk about spray-in beadliners got me to thinking that that stuff may make >great sound proffing material for the floor pan of a vehicle. > >I saw some for sale at Wal-Mart of all places the other day... > >Does anyone have any experiences with the do it yourself stuff, does it stink? >(ie will it take a month before the stuff fully cures and quits smelling like >paint?) How far does a can go? Does it drift bad (do I need to cover >every car >within 30 feet?) > >Just a crazy thought? > >Steve > >+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+ >| Send posts to fordtrucks80up >| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request >+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+ > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 09:24:00 -0500 (CDT) From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz Subject: Re: Crazy ideas You (Bear) wrote: > Try filling the empty cavities of your vehicles with a product called "Great > Stuff" it should be sold in the home repair area at Wal-mart for about $3 > per can. I have a 78 f-150 and was trying to hold the noise from the stereo > inside the cab. I used one can to fill the cab corners from the bottom of > the cab to the strike plate for the door latch. It is a foaming insulation > and it hold sound in/out well. Just another thought.... Danger! 2 points: 1) Be _VERY_ sure the foam you pick is not hydrophillic! Some of them will attract and HOLD water as well as a sponge. You may have speedy rust forming there soon... hmmm... weak metal doesn't reverberate so much so _maybe_ rusted out metal is what you want [sarcasm off] 2) Parts of the inner structure of your car may be empty for a reason - like pathways for escape of condensation, water channels, etc... you risk doing very real damage to your car by just spraying the foam in _just_ anywhere. Use your brain, please. Don't ask how I know... there is an 85 Toyota Tercel in the Philladelphia junkyard with 4-5 cans of that stuff in it... fatal dosage... internal rust is kinda bad for an unibody car :-) Take care. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 09:53:56 -6000 From: "Patrick Vanderlind" Subject: rear seat xcab help I have a 93 xcab without the pad for the rear seat headrest. I noticed on the newer xcabs they had one. Does anyone know where I could get a red one? Ford wants an arm and a leg of course. Thanks in advance! Patrick Vanderlind Cedar Rapids, Iowa '93 F250 xcab XLT 4x4 red/red Diesel > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 08:30:32 -0700 From: Bill Funk Subject: Re: EGR system robbing power? > Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 10:54:54 -0700 > From: Steven McCullough > Subject: Re: EGR system robbing power? > > I've heard this comment regarding cooling the combustion chamber > elsewhere, > but > as of yet I don't buy into it - how does displacing cool outside air > from > the normal > intake with hot exhaust gases cool the exhaust chamber 'better'. > > Unless the thermo properties of exhaust gas lend it towards better > heat > transfer? > > I would sure appreciate a comment from anyone on this...before I go > and > screw up > something > > Steve If it were a simple matter of replacing masses of gases of different temperatures, you'd be right. But there's a lot going on in the combustion chamber besides swapping gases.Injecting a small amount of exhaust gas has the effect of cooling the *combustion* process, keeping NOx formations down, and, at the same time, slowing the flame front, reducing knock. The whole engine system is calibrated using this EGR as part of the system; if you remove it, the computer will alter fuel flow and spark timing, but the compression ratio and cam profile remain the same. It's a crap shoot as to whether or not you introduce a significant knock into the engine. Altering one part of a complex system like a modern auto engine can have results you never intended (or wanted!). Bill Funk ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 08:35:09 -0700 From: Bill Funk Subject: Re: Exhaust > > > > Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 15:40:24 -0500 > From: silent.bob > Subject: Re: Exhaust > > > On Sat, 18 Oct 1997 16:56:51 -0400 (EDT) Midwest96 > >He also said that it would not hurt an engine to > >have > >no backpressure on it, but that it would be really loud. I found > this > >doubtful...? What kind of performance increase would I get by > >changing > >exhaust? Thanx again, > > Ummm... You need back pressure or you can damage the valves. I don't think that's true. I think you need a way to prevent cold air from hitting the hot valves, which means you need some sort of exhaust pipe to hold in some hot exhaust. I can't think of a way no back pressure itself can damage an exhaust > valve. Bill Funk ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 08:41:54 -0700 From: Bill Funk Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #176 > From: Steven McCullough > Subject: Re: Exhaust > ... > >> > >> Ummm... You need back pressure or you can damage the valves. > >> > > > >I have heard this as long as I have been involved with cars. I have > >never understood why people say it. I have never seen any actual > proof > >either way. I did knock the entire exhaust manifold off a MF-175 > Tractor > >when I was 12. I ran the tractor long enough to finish the mowing I > was > >doing and to drive it back to the shop. The valves lasted for another > 23 > >years (of course we did put on a new exhaust manifold as soon as we > >could get it). I don't think you could get much less back pressure > than > >that. It seems that Drag CArs run very short pipes. I would imagine > that > >properly sized pipes would have less back pressure than no pipes at > all. > > > > Ed > Actually, a properly designed megaphone exhaust system will run *negative* exhaust pressure, and these are still used in some motorcycle race classes.A properly designed scavageing exhaust collector's sole purpose is to use exhaust pulses to pull the exhaust from the other pipes in the system, anso introducing negative pressures (look at a 4-cylinder motorcycle's 4-into-1 exhaust system, and see how the collector is designed to rotate the exhaust pulses in a circular pattern to pull the exhaust from the prior-firing cylinder pipe). It's the cold air that can damage the exhaust valve, not a lack of backpressure. .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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