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Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 03:50:24 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #167
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fordtrucks80up-digest Thursday, October 16 1997 Volume 01 : Number 167



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Dirty trucks [Tony Rio ]
Ford F-350 Powerstroke [Jan Campbell ]
Re: Ford F-350 Powerstroke [Todd Metzger ]
Re: OIL (Synthetic + Rant) ["David J. Baldwin" ]
Re: OIL ["S.N." ]
RE: How much is a ??? worth? [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
re: E4OD automatic transmission [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
RE: Drilling the front bumper [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Re: Robert 7.3 cutting off ["Evan & Teresa" ]
Re: OIL [Jordan ]
squeaking serpentine belt [Gary Snook ]
Re: electrical problem? [Filip M Gieszczykiewicz ]
[none] [Gary Snook ]
1988 F-150 has miss [terry.parker juno.com (Terry D Parker)]
Re: 1988 F-150 has miss ["Ryan Penner" ]
Re: Drilling the front bumper [Bob ]
Synthetic Oil [MadPoodle aol.com]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 16:46:06 -0600
From: Tony Rio
Subject: Dirty trucks

KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY) wrote:

>I had a '95 with the 4 and just bought a
>'98 (new front end and suspension) reg cab shortbox with the 4.0L V6
>and a sitck. Mine is Black, too. Everyone warned me about how hard
>it is to keep clean, but I love the truck anyway.

My F150 is raven black, and I got the same flack about keeping it clean.
Now I always try to keep mine running well, and i love the truck, BUT IT'S
A TRUCK! I say, the dirtier, the better!!! :-P I always tell my friends that if I
wanted a truck that I had to baby, I would have gotten the Chevy......

Tony

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 18:00:40 -0400
From: Jan Campbell
Subject: Ford F-350 Powerstroke

Help: Would anyone have the website for the Ford TSBs?
Is there also a site for Ford optional parts? I.E. mudflaps, etc.
Thanks,
Matt Campbell

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 17:11:23 +0000
From: Todd Metzger
Subject: Re: Ford F-350 Powerstroke

Jan Campbell wrote:

> Help: Would anyone have the website for the Ford TSBs?
> Is there also a site for Ford optional parts? I.E. mudflaps, etc.
> Thanks,
> Matt Campbell

Matt,
Go to my homepage and go to my list of links towards the bottom of the
page. There are two links for recalls and TSBs, they should have whatever
you are looking for.
My page is...
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.umr.edu/~tmetz/car.htm

Todd Metzger
tmetz umr.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 17:16:49 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: OIL (Synthetic + Rant)

Dave Resch wrote:
>
> The polymer molecules are what allow true multi-grade motor oil, which acts
> like thin (low viscosity) oil at cooler temperatures and thick (high
> viscosity) oil at warmer temps. The oil's actual viscosity is usually the
> lower of the two numbers (10 in 10W40). The bigger the multi-grade range
> (i.e., 30 points or more, such as 10W40 or 20W50), the less stable the
> polymer molecules are under engine operating conditions and the more prone
> they are to rapid breakdown.

Thank you for clarifying the oil thing. I would like to add that people
are inclined to think that a multi-grade oil actually increases in
viscosity with increasing temperature. It does not. Oils actually
decrease in viscosity with increasing temperature, and it is the polymer
additives which reduce this effect to the point where 10W50 is the same
viscosity as SAE10 at low temp, but reduces only to the viscosity of
SAE50 at operating temp. That is, the rate of change of viscosity of
multi-viscosity oils with respect to temperature is less than that of a
single viscosity oil, but that change is still inversely proportional to
temperature.

Of course if you leave your oil in your engine until it turns to sludge,
you might actually get the viscosity to increase! :^)

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 17:36:34 -0500
From: "S.N."
Subject: Re: OIL

At 01:54 PM 10/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I was wondering what you guys think of oil treatments and synthetics.
>Do you think I should put a oil treatment in my 4.0 v6 or a full
>synthetic oil, or both, or neither. If you think it is a good idea
>which brands should I use.

I use synthetics. My question is about which brands everyone uses. I use
Mobil 1 because it has been around forever. What about the new players in
the synthetic field? Seems like in the last few years Valvoline,
Valvoline, Castrol, Quaker State, etc. have all jumped on the band wagon.
I would really love for some independent test facility to come up with some
innovative ways of tearing these oils apart and giving an unbiased opinion
on which ones work and which ones don't.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 19:47:55, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: RE: How much is a ??? worth?

Brad,

Did you get the price from a dealer or someone off the street? $10K
is a good retail price, but $8K for trade in isn't bad either. A
dealership does have to make some profit to stay in business.

Josh

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 19:53:07, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: re: E4OD automatic transmission

If I were you, I would NOT tow in overdrive. Sure it runs at a
higher RPM, but 9000# is a lot of weight to be towing in overdrive.
My dad had the same E4OD in his van towing a 4000# snowmobile trailer
and he never used OD. Also, I heard that E4OD's had some problems at
a early stage in development. Check to see if your tranny is old
enough for problems (I doubt it though).
Josh

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 20:00:56, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: RE: Drilling the front bumper

Tony,

I had a Ranger and I mounted fog light UNDER the bumper. There are
holes in the bottom in which the air deflecter bolts onto. If you
place the bolt for the fog light in place of the other bolt....kazaam-
you don't need to drill holes. Another option is to buy a grille
guard and mount the lights on that. I had one of those too. Made by
Westin. Worked slick.

Josh

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 17:35:57 -0700
From: "Evan & Teresa"
Subject: Re: Robert 7.3 cutting off

this problem may also indicate a lack of fuel system lubrication in canada
diesel does not have sulphur and unless you put in an additive just my .02
worth evan

- -----Original Message-----
From: WClou60583 aol.com
To: fordtrucks80up listservice.net
Date: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: Robert 7.3 cutting off



>Robert,
>
>I had a 88 F-250 It was cutting off when ever I slowed down to a Idle or
>braking for a stop, It ended up my injection pump was going bad. The dealer
>replaced it under warranty. I had the (Ford ESP warranty) The dealer had no
>Idea what was the cause I had to tell them what was bad, I was a diesel
mech
>before I started driving big rigs ,so I knew what was going on when the
truck
>started stalling.
>Have your injector pump checked.
>GOOD LUCK!
>Bill
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 20:58:55 -0500
From: Jordan
Subject: Re: OIL

At 01:54 PM 10/14/97 -0400, you wrote:
>I was wondering what you guys think of oil treatments and synthetics.
>Do you think I should put a oil treatment in my 4.0 v6 or a full
>synthetic oil, or both, or neither. If you think it is a good idea
>which brands should I use.
>
>I am just curious on what kind of experiences have you guys had with
>stuff like Duralube, TM8, Prolong, and so on.
>
>Thanks,
>Jim
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

Go with a synth. oil only, do not put in a treatment, they are useless
(except in race applications) and can cause oil starvation. There is an
article (I think on the ford trucks website) about these, you might want
to read it, otherwise contact me at deanson1 flash.net and I'll send it to you.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 20:34:12 -0500
From: Gary Snook
Subject: squeaking serpentine belt

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:27:56 -0500
From: Steven McCullough
Subject: RE: electrical problem?

Hmmm, its a fairly new belt (probably less than 6 months old) but I'll
definately check - you know that serpentine belt has always squeaked
a little at idle...can pulleys get slick and cause slipping?

Thanks for the help - I'll check it out

The serpentine belt on my 92 Aerostar squeaked from the day 1. Dealer said
a new one would squeak too. I got tired of listening to it and went to
Western Auto and bought a PREMIUM belt (I think it was a Perelli). No more
squeak - EVER!!!

Gary
gsnook kca.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 20:26:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Subject: Re: electrical problem?

You (Steven McCullough) wrote:
> Along those same lines, my 90 F150 has a similar problem of
> the voltage dropping off to around ~10V under load (fan, lights) at
> idle, but add 100-200 RPM and it jumps back up near 14V.
> Only recently have I noticed this (maybe because it was still hot
> here in Houston up to a week ago - I like my A/C)
[zap]

Greetings. Everytime I see a "quantum" jump or drop in 12 volts
(remember that a car battery is 6 2V cells in series) I look closer
at the battery. Sounds like you have a partially-shorted cell that
fizzles open depending on the load/charging voltage. Easiest is
a quick swap with a friend ... if that fixes it, you know what you
need to do.

Depending on age/[ab]use of alternator, it could also be a dying
diode... but this is a bit too odd for one of these.

Take care.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 20:40:36 -0500
From: Gary Snook
Subject: [none]

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:41:36 -0500
From: Steven McCullough
Subject: RE: Drilling the front bumper

I'm trying to remember my electronics class, I believe
power=voltage*current
so each lamp would pull about 8.3 amps for a grand total of 33.3 amps
(seems high, but this is a low voltage)

someone please correct me if I'm wrong here


[Steven McCullough]


The formula is correct, as are the numbers. The current draw of this
magnitude will require a relay to switch the lights on and off. The
alternator will be able to handle the load if it is a HD unit, and the
truck dosn't idle too long, else the result will be a low/dead battery.
Much the same thing happens when plowing snow in 4WH instead using low
(keep RPM and hence battery charging up to compensate for the Hydraulic
Pump electrical draw).

gRY

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 19:56:01 -0500
From: terry.parker juno.com (Terry D Parker)
Subject: 1988 F-150 has miss

I need some help trouble shooting my F-150 with the 4.9 I-6 engine. The
truck has 186,000 miles
and it has had a stumble or miss for the last 110,000 miles. The miss is
worse in damp or cold weather
but it is present all most all of the time. Parts I have replaced:
EGR VALVE, FUEL FILTER, OXYGEN SENSOR,
EGR VALVE P0SITION SENSOR, THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, COIL, PLUG WIRES,
DIST. CAP, IGNITION MODULE, PIP SENSOR,EEC-IV MODULE, THERMOSTAT. I
have checked the MAP sensor according to
the HAYNES manual, it was ok. The fuel pressure is in spec at idle and
at higher RPM. I have looked for
a vaccuum leak and can't find one. A compression check seemed to
indicate all was well inside the
engine. The miss occurs between 1500 and 2000 RPM and will go away if I
increase the throttle. The fuel
injectors have only been cleaned with gas additive cleaners, never at a
garage. I drove with a vaccuum gage connected for a while and it behaved
as you would expect except during a steady cruise (where the miss occurs)
it seemed to have a slight vibration. This truck has duel tanks, and it
does not matter which one is used.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated. terry.parker juno.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 21:25:26 -0600
From: "Ryan Penner"
Subject: Re: 1988 F-150 has miss

- -----Original Message-----
From: Terry D Parker
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 9:09 PM
Subject: 1988 F-150 has miss


>I need some help trouble shooting my F-150 with the 4.9 I-6 engine. The
>truck has 186,000 miles
>and it has had a stumble or miss for the last 110,000 miles. The miss is
>worse in damp or cold weather
> but it is present all most all of the time. Parts I have replaced:
>EGR VALVE, FUEL FILTER, OXYGEN SENSOR,
> EGR VALVE P0SITION SENSOR, THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, COIL, PLUG WIRES,
>DIST. CAP, IGNITION MODULE, PIP SENSOR,EEC-IV MODULE, THERMOSTAT. I
>have checked the MAP sensor according to
> the HAYNES manual, it was ok. The fuel pressure is in spec at idle and
>at higher RPM. I have looked for
>a vaccuum leak and can't find one. A compression check seemed to
>indicate all was well inside the
>engine. The miss occurs between 1500 and 2000 RPM and will go away if I
>increase the throttle. The fuel
>injectors have only been cleaned with gas additive cleaners, never at a
>garage. I drove with a vaccuum gage connected for a while and it behaved
>as you would expect except during a steady cruise (where the miss occurs)
>it seemed to have a slight vibration. This truck has duel tanks, and it
>does not matter which one is used.
>Any and all help is greatly appreciated. terry.parker juno.com
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

I have the EXACT same problem, I have replaced quite a few of the
same parts with not luck. The TPS did make it not as bad, but it is still
there. I also have a I6 with 170,000 miles on it.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 22:55:12 -0800
From: Bob
Subject: Re: Drilling the front bumper

> Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:16:08 -0600
> From: Tony Rio
> Subject: Drilling the front bumper
>
> Hey folks...
>
> In addition, I was wondering if anyone has mounted auxiliary lighting on
> the front bumper of the '94 F150? I have 4 lights to mount there but am
> hesitant to drill into the bumper to mount them because I know the
> sensors for the air bag are mounted underneath. I am also looking to get
> a roll bar for the bed to mount the lights on, but haven't found one that is
> affordable, so I figured I could put them up front.
> Also, the lamps are 100 watts a piece (They're for use at my place in
> Wisconsin). Any ideas on how big of a drain these will be, and if I need a
> bigger alternator or something? I am not sure what the amp draw of each
> of these are, as I am at work right now.
>
> Thanks!!!!!
>

The airbag sensor isnt in the bumper on my 95 F-150. I just had to lift
it to match my body since I got a 2" body lift. As far as lights... I
had a 90 Jeep Wrangler with a 2.5 4 banger, with a 100 amp alternator
and here is what happened... I had 5 KC Daylighters, and 2 5x7 KC
lights on it, total of 800 watts. I figured that they drew about 75-80
amps when all on. They would all light up bright as can be, but my volt
meter would drop to about 7-8 volts. I had the biggest battery I could
buy in the thing, so it never left me stranded. As far as an F-series
truck, I think they come with at least a 90 amp alternator, (Not
sure...) so I dont think you should have any problems. I plan on
putting at least 4 of my lights on my F-150 on a Grizzly grill guard. I
was going to mount the lights to the bumper, but I dont want to have
extra holes in my bumper. (New bumpers cost approx. $550.00 if you
decide to remove the lights, and dont want holes...)

Anyway, hope this helps ! Have fun.

Bob
Anchorage, Alaska
asrmk1 uaa.alaska.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 05:44:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: MadPoodle aol.com
Subject: Synthetic Oil


> comes from the factory with synthetic oil. But then again, look at how
> those cars are driven (and it could be a marketing thing).
>
> Ken>>

Well, took my 93 F250 SC, 351, 5 spd, 4.10 rear (work truck) and changed it
Amsoil 20-50 63k miles. Temp (has 160 tstat) dropped 3 needle widths
(stupid indicator not real gauge :-(..
Inhaled oil for first 3k miles. Scared snot out of me $$$ per qt. Then
consumption stopped.. ?? Mileage has slowly increased by about 30%. Am I
convinced after 17k miles? Not yet, but leaning.
As an aside, I run a small fleet of trucks, 3 x F250's, 6 x F350's, 2 x S-10
{OOPS, should I admit that?}, and a Ranger. Review of maintenance records....


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