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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 15:19:03 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #166
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Wednesday, October 15 1997 Volume 01 : Number 166



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff.... [Steven McCullough
re: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
RE: electrical problem? [Steven McCullough ]
How much is a ??? worth? [Bradley and Debbie Miller ]
Re: Drilling the front bumper [droberts MIT.EDU (D Robertson)]
RE: Drilling the front bumper [Steven McCullough
Voltage drops [Tony Rio ]
RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff.... ["Stephen M. Brown"
Re: How much is a ??? worth? [Todd Metzger ]
Re: How much is a ??? worth? [John Yee ]
E4OD automatic transmission ["Harold P. Balitski" ]
Re: OIL (Synthetic + Rant) ["Dave Resch"]
1989 Ranger with 2.0L and carb [Larry Smeins ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #164 [hunter cyberstreet.com (Michael Kisiel]
RE: Drilling the front bumper [Tony Rio ]
RE: Center caps [Tony Rio ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:24:45 -0500
From: Steven McCullough
Subject: RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff....

If its a truck, I found it easier to unbolt the bed and lift it off to get to the
fuel pumps - obviously that might be a tad more difficult with the bronco ;)

but, four people can easily lift off the bed - just remove the bolts holding the bed,
unplug the tail lights and disconnect the filler hose/nozzels, then just lift it off.





- -----Original Message-----
From: Stephen M. Brown [SMTP:hurricanesteve geocities.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 10:21 AM
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Subject: RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff....

> From: Geoffrey Hoffman
> Subject: RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff....
> >Luckily, I didn't need one for my s/c (Kenne Bell 6.5psi on my Bronco).
> how do you like the kenne belle? how was the install? (ie, what did you
> have to do?)

Love it. Boost comes on even at low RPM (my xmission shifts at 4500, which
is in the middle of most centrifugal s/c powerbands) where a Bronco needs
it. The unit replaces the upper intake manifold with it's twin screw
housing. Uses stock throttle body, EGR, etc. For the install...basically,
you remove upper intake manifold, replace it with the s/c, install a couple
of doo-dad's along the way, fill the case with gear oil & VAROOOOM. It
took the majority of a weekend (17 hours total). There were numerous
occasions where another set of hands could have helped (probably would have
halved the install time), but I did it completely by myself. Uses stock
injectors, stock fuel pump, stock fuel rail, etc.

> the boost-a-pump sounds sketchy. it also sounds like it will not get the
> same boost as either changing the pump or adding the in-line.

It is just basically a regulated power supply that happens to give you the
option to adjust voltage.

> how hard (or
> expensive) is it to change the fuel pump on an explorer? (ie, what needs
> to be done, where can i get one and how much, etc...)

Local speed shops can set you up with a new fuel pump (in-tank). Dunno
bout the cost. Lots of labor, cuz you have to drop the tank. I personally
would not do it myself, cuz I have read that can be fairly difficult
without being able to lift the vehicle pretty high. You might feel
enterprising though!

Oooh, and wait til you get to install a boost gauge & fuel pressure gauge.
One of these days I'll get pictures of mine up on the net.

>
> - --
> Geoffrey Hoffman gch2 cornell.edu
> Cornell University http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pobox.com/~hoffy

Are you a Cornell undergrad or grad?

steve



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 14:24:59, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: re: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT

Robert,

Congrats on your new truck! I had a '95 with the 4 and just bought a
'98 (new front end and suspension) reg cab shortbox with the 4.0L V6
and a sitck. Mine is Black, too. Everyone warned me about how hard
it is to keep clean, but I love the truck anyway.

Josh
KNBD87D prodigy.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:27:56 -0500
From: Steven McCullough
Subject: RE: electrical problem?

Hmmm, its a fairly new belt (probably less than 6 months old) but I'll
definately check - you know that serpentine belt has always squeaked
a little at idle...can pulleys get slick and cause slipping?

Thanks for the help - I'll check it out

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter D. Engels [SMTP:petere mitre.org]
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 11:04 AM
To: fordtrucks80up listservice.net
Subject: RE: electrical problem?

>Along those same lines, my 90 F150 has a similar problem of
>the voltage dropping off to around ~10V under load (fan, lights) at
>idle, but add 100-200 RPM and it jumps back up near 14V.
>Only recently have I noticed this (maybe because it was still hot
>here in Houston up to a week ago - I like my A/C)
>
>So, is this a weak alternator (is there such a thing, I thought they
>just died at the worst possible time), weak battery (it starts fine, no slow
>cranking) or a bad cable/connection.

I think its just a loose or slipping belt. Check belt tightness, and try
to see if it might be slipping a bit.








+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:34:27 -0500
From: Bradley and Debbie Miller
Subject: How much is a ??? worth?

I've got a 1995 Ford Ranger Splash with about 45K miles on it and a 4.0L
and 5 speed . . . cruise, AC . . . etc... About what is one of those
worth? I was just given an outrageous $8,000 value for the truck.
NADA/bank says it should be about $10,000 or so.

Anyone else???????

Thanks!


Bradley Miller
ByStar Partners - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bystar.com
Midwest Shelby Dodge Club - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.shelbydodge.org
Mini Beeper Project - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lake-ozark.mo.us/OurNeon
'83 Dodge Shelby Charger (2.2L - 5spd - 40mm Webers)
'97 Dodge Neon Sport (2.0L - 5spd - 150hp) -- Deep amethyst
'95 Ford Ranger Splash (4.0L - 5spd - 150hp) -- Still with us . . . ARGH!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 14:41:21 +0100
From: droberts MIT.EDU (D Robertson)
Subject: Re: Drilling the front bumper

To figure out the current draw from watts the formular is watts= current * volts
100w/12v= ~8.3 amps each , 400w/12=~33.3 amps . I don't know about the
output of the alternator ,but that seems to me, to be alot of current to
draw.

Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:41:36 -0500
From: Steven McCullough
Subject: RE: Drilling the front bumper

I'm trying to remember my electronics class, I believe power=voltage*current
so each lamp would pull about 8.3 amps for a grand total of 33.3 amps
(seems high, but this is a low voltage)

someone please correct me if I'm wrong here


[Steven McCullough]
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tony Rio [SMTP:TRIO1 allstate.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 2:16 PM
To: fordtrucks80up listservice.net
Subject: Drilling the front bumper

Hey folks...

Thanks for the responses on the center cap question. I have a bunch of
leads to follow now. I really appreciate it.
In addition, I was wondering if anyone has mounted auxiliary lighting on
the front bumper of the '94 F150? I have 4 lights to mount there but am
hesitant to drill into the bumper to mount them because I know the
sensors for the air bag are mounted underneath. I am also looking to get
a roll bar for the bed to mount the lights on, but haven't found one that is
affordable, so I figured I could put them up front.
Also, the lamps are 100 watts a piece (They're for use at my place in
Wisconsin). Any ideas on how big of a drain these will be, and if I need a
bigger alternator or something? I am not sure what the amp draw of each
of these are, as I am at work right now.
Finally, about a month ago the motor or the drive mechanism for the
windshield wipers started making a grinding noise. Anyone know hard it
is to get the motor to see if it is bad and possibly replace it?

Thanks!!!!!



+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:45:00 -0600
From: Tony Rio
Subject: Voltage drops

In reference....
>along those same lines, my 90 F150 has a similar problem of
>the voltage dropping off to around 10V under load (fan, lights) at
>idle, but add 100-200 RPM and it jumps back up near 14V.
>Only recently have I noticed this (maybe because it was still hot
>here in Houston up to a week ago - I like my A/C)
>
>So, is this a weak alternator (is there such a thing, I thought they
>just died at the worst possible time), weak battery (it starts fine, no slow
>cranking) or a bad cable/connection.

My '94s voltmeter does the same. I have had the same problem on new
or old batteries. I notice it most when I come to a stoplight and my wipers
are going. When the engine is above an idle, I see about 13.5 to 14 volts.
When at idle it drops to about 10 to 10.5. Asked my mechanic (who I trust
with my life) and he says that he's seen a bunch of the big Fords that do
this, but none where it was anything but a curiosity. It didn't seem to
affect the performance of the vehicle (except that the wipers slow down
when idling.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:20:40 -0500
From: "Stephen M. Brown"
Subject: RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff....

> From: Geoffrey Hoffman
> Subject: RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff....
> so, what do-dads did the kenne belle have? the vortech has the inline
> pump, the fule regulater thing for the return line, two oil lines, to and
> from the engine, since it uses main engine oil, and that is about it.
the
> intake tubes it has has some other features, like a dump valve that dumps
> the boost if you close the throttle, so you don't ram the butterfly.
that
> is controlled with vacuum tubes, pretty clean.

Let's see, the Kenne Bell is downstream of the throttle body, so nothing
needed to be done there. It has the FMU thing. It uses gear oil in a
reservoir instead of engine oil. It came with new air intake tubes from
the air cleaner to the throttle body, because it changed the position of
the throttle body. It came with an extension and plug to relocate the
Intake Air Temperature sensor. A new elbow to relocate the Schrader valve
on the fuel rail. A new radiator hose (which promptly began to leak, so I
got one from cool-flex...nice). Also came with a Vacuum Solenoid assembly
which is only for Speed Density trucks like mine. I believe yours is a
Mass Air engine, so it eliminates this piece. Its sole purpose is to keep
the engine thinking that it is in vacuum even when it's in boost cuz my
engine does not have a Mass Air sensor. Works great, tho'.

> >Oooh, and wait til you get to install a boost gauge & fuel pressure
gauge.
> >One of these days I'll get pictures of mine up on the net.
> vortech sells these. do you think i should get them? are they useful?

Well, I was interested because (1), I wanted to be able to verify that I
was getting the boost promised (also a quick check to see if anything is
wrong), and (2) the fuel pressure gauge is nice so I can watch to make sure
the FMU is doing it's job. Mostly diagnostic. Not necessary, but nice to
have. I went with an Autometer boost/vacuum gauge ($50) and a Cyberdyne
digital fuel pressure gauge ($65). The Cyberdyne uses a electric sender so
I don't have to route fuel lines into the cab (dangerous) or buy an
isolator which uses coolant lines into the cab ($$$ and lots more work).

> >Are you a Cornell undergrad or grad?
> was under, now i am a grad... so, this is my 5th year.

My buddy's little brother is in his 3rd or 4th year of Engineering
undergrad (Dave Herztog) up there. Pretty cold, I hear....long way from
Texas!
> Geoffrey Hoffman gch2 cornell.edu

Steve Brown

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:47:37 +0000
From: Todd Metzger
Subject: Re: How much is a ??? worth?

Bradley and Debbie Miller wrote:

> I've got a 1995 Ford Ranger Splash with about 45K miles on it and a 4.0L
> and 5 speed . . . cruise, AC . . . etc... About what is one of those
> worth? I was just given an outrageous $8,000 value for the truck.
> NADA/bank says it should be about $10,000 or so.
>
> Anyone else???????
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bradley Miller

Check out this site....http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.kbb.com/

Todd Metzger
tmetz umr.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 10:51:56 -0700
From: John Yee
Subject: Re: How much is a ??? worth?

At 01:34 PM 10/15/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I've got a 1995 Ford Ranger Splash with about 45K miles on it and a 4.0L
>and 5 speed . . . cruise, AC . . . etc... About what is one of those
>worth? I was just given an outrageous $8,000 value for the truck.
>NADA/bank says it should be about $10,000 or so.

If you haven't already...

Try www.edmunds.com *and* www.kbb.com, and do a bit of research in the used
car section. You will get different answers that
should set a realistic range of what your vehicle is worth both from a
retail and wholesale point of view.

If this turns out to be less than what you owe (assuming you financed), well
that's a seperate discussion on how to buy a car :-).

Hope this helps,
- -john

>Anyone else???????
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>Bradley Miller
>ByStar Partners - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.bystar.com
>Midwest Shelby Dodge Club - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.shelbydodge.org
>Mini Beeper Project - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.lake-ozark.mo.us/OurNeon
>'83 Dodge Shelby Charger (2.2L - 5spd - 40mm Webers)
>'97 Dodge Neon Sport (2.0L - 5spd - 150hp) -- Deep amethyst
>'95 Ford Ranger Splash (4.0L - 5spd - 150hp) -- Still with us . . . ARGH!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 12:47:55 -0600
From: "Harold P. Balitski"
Subject: E4OD automatic transmission

I am wondering if anybody else has had any trouble with the E4OD
automatic transmission used with the powerstroke diesel.
My 1996 F350 with 20K miles has been in the shop for the last two weeks
being repaired. One of the snap rings on a clutch pack let go and part
of it dropped into the oil pan, the remainder, into the gearing.
When the repairs were completed, I talked to the service manager, he
informed me that I was not to tow my 9000# 5TH wheel with the
transmission in overdrive. I questioned his statement as the operators
manual specifically states to tow in overdrive. His response was that
Ford requested them to inform all their customers of this new
information. I latter phoned the Ford customer assistance centre and
they stated that if the dealer said this, it was indeed correct. Not
satisfied, I then phoned the service manager of another dealership and
he said that he recommends not to tow in overdrive but the operators
manual says that you can. (confusing?)
Is the E4OD a product that is not capable of its intended and
advertised purpose?

Harold

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:19:38 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: OIL (Synthetic + Rant)

Yo Chris, Jim, et al:
I must concur w/ Ken's comments about oil additives in general. This is
really one of my pet peeves.



Seems like some people think that what goes on inside an engine is magic or
something. "If only I add a few drops of miracle snake oil or this
high-tech eye-of-wombat potion, everything will be all right and I'll get
200 miles to the gallon and the engine will last a million miles without an
overhaul or tuneup."

Gag me w/ a backhoe! Grow up, learn some physics, read a book about
internal combustion engines, figure it out, get a life!



Whew! That said, here are a few points about synthetic oil:

>If you are going to use synthetic--which is superior to conventional oil
in
>many respects (cold weather starting, somewhat better engine performance)
but
>still needs to be changed, along with the oil filter, as often, since it
>breaks down just as quick--you should do it sooner rather than later.
Au contraire, mon ami. One of the real advantages of synthetic oil is that
it doesn't contain the same types of additives as conventional
(petroleum-based) oil, particularly the viscosity modifier polymer
molecules, which with repeated hot/cold cycles break apart and cause the
much ballyhooed "viscosity breakdown" hyped in some oil company
advertising. (Interestingly, advertising for a brand of conventional motor
oil that uses those polymers!)

The polymer molecules are what allow true multi-grade motor oil, which acts
like thin (low viscosity) oil at cooler temperatures and thick (high
viscosity) oil at warmer temps. The oil's actual viscosity is usually the
lower of the two numbers (10 in 10W40). The bigger the multi-grade range
(i.e., 30 points or more, such as 10W40 or 20W50), the less stable the
polymer molecules are under engine operating conditions and the more prone
they are to rapid breakdown.

Another advantage of synthetic oil is that it doesn't contain certain
undesirable compounds that are a mere byproduct of the petroleum refining
process, the so-called "ash." As a conventional oil experiences the high
temperatures found in an internal combustion engine, the amount of ash
steadily increases as the petroleum hydrocarbons continue to break down.
Ash is bad because it has no lubricating properties.

>Switching to synthetic after prolonged use of conventional could well lead
to
>leaks, since the syntehtic is more "slippery" and likely to permeate small

>openings which conventional will not. I have an 88 f250 with a 7.3
Synthetic oil is not more "slippery" than conventional oil, but because of
it's superior multi-grade characteristics, it can attain a lower viscosity
than conventional oil, which might allow it to leak through small crevices
that a conventional oil would not leak through. Furthermore, synthetic oil
does not contain the (big) polymer molecules that conventional oils
contain, and with fewer big molecules, the oil can find more places to leak
than a liquid with more big molecules (the same way a helium-filled balloon
goes flat quicker than an air-filled balloon).

>significant fuel improvement or performance? It seems kind of costly
given
>that oil changes are done every 3,000 miles.
Improvement in performance for a pickup truck engine (Powerstroke or gas)
might be pretty marginal, unless you live in a place with pretty severe low
temperature conditions (like Alaska or Northern Canada). If you have
really cold winters, the lower viscosity of a synthetic oil can help with
cold starts (particularly with a diesel). According to what big rig truck
component manufacturers say, using synthetic lube in gearboxes
(transmission, transfer case, and differentials) actually produces more
improvement in fuel economy than what you use in the engine.

Just a few thoughts and my 0.02 to add to the brouhaha!

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 14:10:17 -0600
From: Larry Smeins
Subject: 1989 Ranger with 2.0L and carb

>Hello,

>I'm trying to help a young lady who purchased a used 1989 Ford Ranger
>a
>year ago. It was built 8/88, has 69,000 miles on it and is in
excellent
>shape. It has a non-fuel injected (carburetor) 2.0L motor. Three
months
>after purchase it started to randomly loose all power, but idles O.K.
In
>the failed condition, with the truck in neutral nothing you can do will
get
>the engine above 1000 RPM. The exhust gets super hot (lean??). Then
>without warning, like flipping switch, the truck revs up and operates
>perfectly fine. The problem may be from a few seconds to a half hour
in
>duration.

I had a similar problem with a carbureted Nissan. It happened three
times on two carburetors. The first time was on an old carb with other
problems and I didn't investigate the problem with it. On the second
occurence it was on a new carb and I tracked it down to a flake of
rubber floating around in the float bowl that would randomly plug a jet.
I took the flake out, assuming it came with the new carb, and everything
worked fine for 6 months. This time my daughter was away at college
with it so I told her to take it to a Nissan dealer. After $200 of
troubleshooting they said it needed a new carb at $800 plus labor. I
instructed them too disassemble the carb and clean it, replace the
rubber fuel lines, and replace the filter. They objected but I
insisted. After their $300 carb clean and fuel line /filter repair the
car was fixed and never had the problem again. My diagnosis was
breakdown of the rubber lines put small rubber flakes into the carb
which randomly plugged jets. I learned to hate Nissans with that car
but thats another subject.

Larry
If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 17:09:17 -0400
From: hunter cyberstreet.com (Michael Kisielewski)
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #164

>
>
> Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 00:23:53 -0400
> From: Luke Wells
> Subject: Wheel price?
>
> I was wanting to get new wheels and tires, but I need to sell my old
> ones first. I have a 96 Ranger with 15" chrome stock rims. I was wanting
> to know a good prices if I sold the rims with the tires. Also the
> centercap is also chrome.
>
> ------------------------------
>

Luke,

I would check with the dealer and see what they get for the wheels new then adjust your asking
price accordingly. Taking into account on the shape they are in and the rubber that's on them of
course. Just a suggestion.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 16:07:17 -0600
From: Tony Rio
Subject: RE: Drilling the front bumper

Tom Stoner was nice enough to e-mail me on my question about mounting
lights on my bumper (Thanks Tom, I appreciate it). He wrote:

>...I wouldn't drill holes in my
>bumper. There are many different types and styles of mounting
>brackets for accessory lights available. I'm sure that you can find some
>that would clamp to the top or bottom edge of the bumper, or fasten to
>either the frame or bumper mounting brackets with existing bolts and/or
>holes...

Does anyone know where I can order something like this? Sorry to be so
obtuse with some of this, but I waited until the truck was paid off before
adding stuff to it, and I am not sure where to get the best deal on, or even
find some of this stuff. Here in Chicago where everyone hires high
school kids for the service counter... well... let's just say that good,
(ie: halfway intelligent or motivated) help can be hard to find.

Thanks a bunch!

Tony

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 16:17:57 -0600
From: Tony Rio
Subject: RE: Center caps

Larry Smeins wrote:

>don't know if this will be of any help but Ford has a TSB on defective
>center covers on F series trucks. They gave me a whole new set for....


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