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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 12:17:08 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #165
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Wednesday, October 15 1997 Volume 01 : Number 165



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Need a center cap. [cvanhooser juno.com (Charles R. Van Hooser)]
Re: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT ["Bob Leifer" ]
Rusted out v8 oil pan [David Hertzberg ]
Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab [silent.bob juno.com]
Re: OIL [silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)]
Re: Overheating! [William Street ]
THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK [bigguy ]
electrical problem? [DantzlerRC aol.com]
1989 Ranger with 2.0L and carb [Nelson ]
RE: electrical problem? [Steven McCullough ]
Need Center Cap [Larry Smeins ]
[none] [Jared ]
RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff.... ["Stephen M. Brown"
RE: electrical problem? [petere mitre.org (Peter D. Engels)]
[none] [Jared ]
What is TSB? [Midwest96 aol.com]
Re: Robert 7.3 cutting off [WClou60583 aol.com]
RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff.... [Geoffrey Hoffman
Drilling the front bumper [Tony Rio ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 06:36:50 -0400
From: cvanhooser juno.com (Charles R. Van Hooser)
Subject: Need a center cap.

Tony,
If you can't find an aftermarket cap that you like try calling Kearny
Mesa Ford in San Diego at 1-800-635-6669, they sell parts at cost plus
20%, that $75 dollars you were quoted is probably list price which is
most of the time cost plus 100%. That $75 dollar part will probably cost
in the $30-40 dollar range. I have bought lots of parts from them over
the last year and have been extremely satisfied with the price and
service. And they do ship ship, I live in South Carolina.
Chuck



Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 16:58:01 -0600
From: Tony Rio
Subject: Need a center cap.

Hey folks...

Looking for the a center spindle cap for my black '94 F150. One of mine
went flying off while leaving a toll plaza on I294, and it was WAY to
dangerous to try to pull over and hop out to get it. This is the small
center
hubcap for the argent style rims. The cap head needs to be the
red-maroon color. I called a few dealers, but they want in the
neighborhood of $75.00 for one! (I think they're on crack or
something...)
Also, my local boneyard doesn't have any in that color. I would like to
pay
$20.00 or so, +shipping.
Also, does anyone have the black '94 w/ the silver running stripe? Mine
is
the only one I've ever seen in the Chicagoland area.

Thanks!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 07:40:35 -0400
From: "Bob Leifer"
Subject: Re: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT

Robert,

Congratulations and good luck with your new Ranger! I also got a '97XLT,
but a short bed, and the 3.0 litre V6 engine with auto tranny. I love my
truck too.

Bob Leifer
- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Stinnett TSO8352 - HOMENODE
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 2:27 AM
Subject: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT


>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
>
>Hey all -
>
>Just purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 114"WB 4cyl about two weeks ago and
was
>thrilled to find this list. What a wonderful truck! It's very well built
and
>I can see I will be getting many years of satisfaction out of it.
>
>
>I basically went with the 4 cyl because I live in a mostly flat part of the
>U.S. and bought it mainly for recreational uses and not hauling. Though
>I did decide to go with the longer wheelbase.
>
>It is black clearcoat (attracts dust like a magnet!) and the interior is
one
>of the best rides I have ever had.
>
>This is my first truck and I'm still getting used to all the differences
>between it and a car. When I first got it I thought there was a problem
>because of a noise coming from the bed area when I had the rear window
open.
>Everytime I was accelerating I'd hear it! The dealer informed me this was
>perfectly normal. When the truck idles I sometimes wonder if it is even on
>-- very smooth idle!
>
>I'm very pleased with it and look forward to having a lot of great use out
of
>it.
>
>Robert
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 97 07:25:31 PDT
From: David Hertzberg
Subject: Rusted out v8 oil pan

Reading the original post on the rusted oil pans led me to take a look at the
pan on my f250. there was plenty of rust on the bottom and sides of the pan,
but the steel underneath the rust and paint appears to have been in good
shape. i used turpentine to clean off the residual oil then took off the rust
with very coarse sandpaper (50 grit, i think). I recently bought this stuff
called Extend (it comes in a spray can) which is designed to chemicaly
interact with rust to neutralize it. You spray on three light coatings,
each about 2 minutes apart. The net effect is to turn all the rusted areas
black--over which you can paint or which you can just leave alone. I highly
recommend it. FYI. David

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 08:57:52 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
Subject: Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab

On Mon, 13 Oct 1997 10:56:14 PDT "Mike Wiatt"
writes:

>Quick little story...(if you know what the Grapevine, a pretty good
>climb, is in CA then it helps)I was going dirt bike riding in Gorman.
>I
>had 30 gallons of water in the bed of my truck along with a
>motorcycle.
>The rest of the bed was filled with firewood. I was towing a 3-bike
>trailer that was full. Besides me there were 3 other adults in the
>car.
>My truck held 65 mph all the way up the grade without even heating up
>and the a/c was on. Needless to say I am glad I got the 4.0

Its the same way with my 2.3L , then again, every Ford that I have owned
or
my family has owned ran cool.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 09:50:45 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
Subject: Re: OIL

On Tue, 14 Oct 1997 13:54:00 -0400 bigguy writes:
>I was wondering what you guys think of oil treatments and synthetics.
>Do you think I should put a oil treatment in my 4.0 v6 or a full
>synthetic oil, or both, or neither. If you think it is a good idea
>which brands should I use.
>
>I am just curious on what kind of experiences have you guys had with
>stuff like Duralube, TM8, Prolong, and so on.
>
>Thanks,
>Jim

Before you even try any treatments, look up this web site,
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.euro.net/TDRS/MINIWEB/oil_additives.html

You are better off sticking with either straight oil, or a synthetic oil
like Mobil-1.

I went ahead and tried the Mobil-1 even though it was expensive, but
everyone raved about it, so I said what the heck.

In hot weather, I cant tell any difference. But now that its starting to
get cool, I can tell a difference in starting. The true test will be in
freezing temps.


.---. .-----------
/ \ __ / ------
/ / \(..)/ -----
////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordManTed.com (Mustang Shop)
//// / // : : --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site)
// / / /` '--
// //..\
=======UU====UU===[silent.bob juno.com]=[95 Ranger SOHC 2.3L]=
'//||\`
''``

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 12:49:42 -0700
From: William Street
Subject: Re: Overheating!

If it has a fan clutch you may want to check that. Be careful though -
I replaced one once - the car still overheated and after going thru
h*ll trying to find the problem it turned out that the NEW one was
also bad.

billy casper wrote:
>
> First of all Thanks to everone who has made this list possible. I have a
> 1981 ford
> courier ( I know it's a hybrrid ) but I really need some help! For some
> reason it keeps overheating, I have replaced the water pump, thermostat
> and flushed the cooling system. Their are no visable signs of leaking
> and there is no water in the oil.
> I have done everthing I know any suggestions? Thanks in advance Bill
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

- --
========================================================================
'Progress & Web Consulting'

William Street Mailto:wstreet streetsys.com
Street Systems, Inc. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.streetsys.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 10:21:55 -0400
From: bigguy
Subject: THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK

Thanks for all the feedback about oil additives. After reading that
snake oil article I decided not to use any kind of additives at all.
That was some interesting facts in that article and I am glad you guys
brought it to my attention.

Thanks again,
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 10:36:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: DantzlerRC aol.com
Subject: electrical problem?

Eric W Sneed wrote:

>>I have 89 f-150 4x4 with a 4.9L L6, the voltmeter in the dash will drop
>>from normal range(12.5 to 14.0v) down to approx 10v. What's confusing
>>me is that when i tap on the gauge it will jump back up to normal.
>>However when running the heater, it will drop off again. Also the
>>battery light will come on from time to time. I know that it is not the
>>battery(two different brand new batts)that is causing the problem. Any
>>insight into what might be the problem would be appreciated.

Sounds like you have a ground wire problem. If the problem responds to other
switched loads like it does to the heater, you can be sure of it. Check
and clean both batery cable connections first (both ends). Then follow the
ground wire circuit all the way to the battery. Remove, clean and replace
each connector. I use Oxi-guard (a conductive grease sold at hardware and
electrical supply stores for the lubrication of circuit breakers). It
prevents corrosion. This stuff works good for bayonet base trailer lights
too.

I might also add that when an electrical meter responds to tapping, it
indicates that the meter has a sticky needle, a mechanical problem inside the
meter. This doesn't happen often on autos because there is so much vibration
all the time the needle is kept loose.

Ground problems are hard to locate, unless it something very obvious, like
the battery connector. I find the "shotgun" approach to be faster. Just
clean them all!

Bob Dantzler

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 08:39:56 -0600
From: Nelson
Subject: 1989 Ranger with 2.0L and carb

Hello,

I'm trying to help a young lady who purchased a used 1989 Ford Ranger a
year ago. It was built 8/88, has 69,000 miles on it and is in excellent
shape. It has a non-fuel injected (carburetor) 2.0L motor. Three months
after purchase it started to randomly loose all power, but idles O.K. In
the failed condition, with the truck in neutral nothing you can do will get
the engine above 1000 RPM. The exhust gets super hot (lean??). Then
without warning, like flipping switch, the truck revs up and operates
perfectly fine. The problem may be from a few seconds to a half hour in
duration. It is unrelated to driving conditions or driving method. It can
start cold in a failed state or run fine for a while and then fail when
hot. We have tried the following:

1) Fixed float level according to site glass - was way too high.
2) Complete engine tune-up.
3) Replace catalytic converter.
4) Removed muffler when in a failed state.
5) While engine was running correctly removed every vacume connection to
sensors and carburetor it an attempt to duplicate the problem. No effect
on engine except when distributor vacume line was removed (engine died).


When the problem first started she had the dealer try and fix this problem.
After one and a half months, they manage to reproduced the problem,
charged $88 for reading the computer, but no fix. Since then she has tried
every repair shop in town.

When ever I call a parts shop or wrecking yard, the first thing they say is
THIS TRUCK DOESN'T EXIST. 1988 Ford Rangers were all fuel injected. My
factory shop manuals show only fuel injected models 1987 on. The Kelley
Blue Book does not list this truck/motor combination.

Serial #: 1FTBR10C8JUD97479
Carb #: E87E-9510AA

Any help fixing the problem and general history of 1989 Ford Rangers with
2.0L non-fuel injected engines would be greatly appreciated.

Thank-you,
Ron Nelson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 09:58:30 -0500
From: Steven McCullough
Subject: RE: electrical problem?

Along those same lines, my 90 F150 has a similar problem of
the voltage dropping off to around ~10V under load (fan, lights) at
idle, but add 100-200 RPM and it jumps back up near 14V.
Only recently have I noticed this (maybe because it was still hot
here in Houston up to a week ago - I like my A/C)

So, is this a weak alternator (is there such a thing, I thought they
just died at the worst possible time), weak battery (it starts fine, no slow
cranking) or a bad cable/connection.

Also, does anyone know of a good parts/salvage place in Houston - most
places I have called are ridiculously high - for example I wanted to buy a
set of 10 hole rims off a stock mustang LX, cheapest price in Houston (used
of course) was $80 a piece (thats crazy, $320 for old used rims). I found a place in
east central Texas that had the same rims for $25, or I could get the pony star
rims for $75 from them - gee I wonder where I'll be doing business.

Any suggestions?

Eric W Sneed wrote:

>>I have 89 f-150 4x4 with a 4.9L L6, the voltmeter in the dash will drop
>>from normal range(12.5 to 14.0v) down to approx 10v. What's confusing
>>me is that when i tap on the gauge it will jump back up to normal.
>>However when running the heater, it will drop off again. Also the
>>battery light will come on from time to time. I know that it is not the
>>battery(two different brand new batts)that is causing the problem. Any
>>insight into what might be the problem would be appreciated.

Sounds like you have a ground wire problem. If the problem responds to other
switched loads like it does to the heater, you can be sure of it. Check
and clean both batery cable connections first (both ends). Then follow the
ground wire circuit all the way to the battery. Remove, clean and replace
each connector. I use Oxi-guard (a conductive grease sold at hardware and
electrical supply stores for the lubrication of circuit breakers). It
prevents corrosion. This stuff works good for bayonet base trailer lights
too.

I might also add that when an electrical meter responds to tapping, it
indicates that the meter has a sticky needle, a mechanical problem inside the
meter. This doesn't happen often on autos because there is so much vibration
all the time the needle is kept loose.

Ground problems are hard to locate, unless it something very obvious, like
the battery connector. I find the "shotgun" approach to be faster. Just
clean them all!

Bob Dantzler




+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 09:25:04 -0600
From: Larry Smeins
Subject: Need Center Cap

Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 16:58:01 -0600
From: Tony Rio
Subject: Need a center cap.

>Hey folks...

>Looking for the a center spindle cap for my black '94 F150. One of mine
>went flying off while leaving a toll plaza on I294, and it was WAY to
>dangerous to try to pull over and hop out to get it. This is the small
center
>hubcap for the argent style rims. The cap head needs to be the
>red-maroon color. I called a few dealers, but they want in the
>neighborhood of $75.00 for one! (I think they're on crack or
something...)
>Also, my local boneyard doesn't have any in that color. I would like
to pay
>$20.00 or so, +shipping.
>Also, does anyone have the black '94 w/ the silver running stripe? Mine
is
>the only one I've ever seen in the Chicagoland area.

>Thanks!!!

Don't know if this will be of any help but Ford has a TSB on defective
center covers on F series trucks. They gave me a whole new set for my
95 F-250 after I lost one. I had laid my money down for a new one at
the parts counter when I decided to check with service to see if there
was anything on loss of covers (I saw a TSB on covers on the TSB
website) and it paid off.

Larry
If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 10:35:52 -0500
From: Jared
Subject: [none]

Sam, the motor tapped all the time but was the worst when accellerating.
I've never heard of injectors making noise, but I know anything is
possible. Since I bought the truck with the noise, I used fuel additives
to help correct it. but I don't think it was a result of the cracked head.
Good Luck, Jared

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 10:21:07 -0500
From: "Stephen M. Brown"
Subject: RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff....

> From: Geoffrey Hoffman
> Subject: RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff....
> >Luckily, I didn't need one for my s/c (Kenne Bell 6.5psi on my Bronco).
> how do you like the kenne belle? how was the install? (ie, what did you
> have to do?)

Love it. Boost comes on even at low RPM (my xmission shifts at 4500, which
is in the middle of most centrifugal s/c powerbands) where a Bronco needs
it. The unit replaces the upper intake manifold with it's twin screw
housing. Uses stock throttle body, EGR, etc. For the install...basically,
you remove upper intake manifold, replace it with the s/c, install a couple
of doo-dad's along the way, fill the case with gear oil & VAROOOOM. It
took the majority of a weekend (17 hours total). There were numerous
occasions where another set of hands could have helped (probably would have
halved the install time), but I did it completely by myself. Uses stock
injectors, stock fuel pump, stock fuel rail, etc.

> the boost-a-pump sounds sketchy. it also sounds like it will not get the
> same boost as either changing the pump or adding the in-line.

It is just basically a regulated power supply that happens to give you the
option to adjust voltage.

> how hard (or
> expensive) is it to change the fuel pump on an explorer? (ie, what needs
> to be done, where can i get one and how much, etc...)

Local speed shops can set you up with a new fuel pump (in-tank). Dunno
bout the cost. Lots of labor, cuz you have to drop the tank. I personally
would not do it myself, cuz I have read that can be fairly difficult
without being able to lift the vehicle pretty high. You might feel
enterprising though!

Oooh, and wait til you get to install a boost gauge & fuel pressure gauge.
One of these days I'll get pictures of mine up on the net.

>
> - --
> Geoffrey Hoffman gch2 cornell.edu
> Cornell University http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pobox.com/~hoffy

Are you a Cornell undergrad or grad?

steve

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 12:04:01 -0400
From: petere mitre.org (Peter D. Engels)
Subject: RE: electrical problem?

>Along those same lines, my 90 F150 has a similar problem of
>the voltage dropping off to around ~10V under load (fan, lights) at
>idle, but add 100-200 RPM and it jumps back up near 14V.
>Only recently have I noticed this (maybe because it was still hot
>here in Houston up to a week ago - I like my A/C)
>
>So, is this a weak alternator (is there such a thing, I thought they
>just died at the worst possible time), weak battery (it starts fine, no slow
>cranking) or a bad cable/connection.

I think its just a loose or slipping belt. Check belt tightness, and try
to see if it might be slipping a bit.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 10:54:00 -0500
From: Jared
Subject: [none]

Has anyone heard of a supercharger for a 4.9 inline six. Response would be
greatly appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 12:58:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Midwest96 aol.com
Subject: What is TSB?

What is a TSB and where is the site?
Craig

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:16:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: WClou60583 aol.com
Subject: Re: Robert 7.3 cutting off

Robert,

I had a 88 F-250 It was cutting off when ever I slowed down to a Idle or
braking for a stop, It ended up my injection pump was going bad. The dealer
replaced it under warranty. I had the (Ford ESP warranty) The dealer had no
Idea what was the cause I had to tell them what was bad, I was a diesel mech
before I started driving big rigs ,so I knew what was going on when the truck
started stalling.
Have your injector pump checked.
GOOD LUCK!
Bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:38:11 -0400
From: Geoffrey Hoffman
Subject: RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff....

At 11:21 AM -0400 10/15/97, Stephen M. Brown wrote:
>you remove upper intake manifold, replace it with the s/c, install a couple
>of doo-dad's along the way, fill the case with gear oil & VAROOOOM. It
>took the majority of a weekend (17 hours total). There were numerous

sounds a lot like the vortech. i got most of the way through in about 9
hours, and i was moving very slowly. since i didn't want to finish it with
out knowing what is going on, i reversed it, and that only took me three
hours.

so, what do-dads did the kenne belle have? the vortech has the inline
pump, the fule regulater thing for the return line, two oil lines, to and
from the engine, since it uses main engine oil, and that is about it. the
intake tubes it has has some other features, like a dump valve that dumps
the boost if you close the throttle, so you don't ram the butterfly. that
is controlled with vacuum tubes, pretty clean.

>Local speed shops can set you up with a new fuel pump (in-tank). Dunno
>bout the cost. Lots of labor, cuz you have to drop the tank. I personally
>would not do it myself, cuz I have read that can be fairly difficult
>without being able to lift the vehicle pretty high. You might feel
>enterprising though!

i figured that it would be too much. no bother.

>Oooh, and wait til you get to install a boost gauge & fuel pressure gauge.
>One of these days I'll get pictures of mine up on the net.

vortech sells these. do you think i should get them? are they useful?

>Are you a Cornell undergrad or grad?

was under, now i am a grad... so, this is my 5th year.

- --
Geoffrey Hoffman gch2 cornell.edu
Cornell University http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pobox.com/~hoffy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 13:16:08 -0600
From: Tony Rio
Subject: Drilling the front bumper

Hey folks...

Thanks for the responses on the center cap question. I have a bunch of
leads to follow now. I really appreciate it.
In addition, I was wondering if anyone has mounted auxiliary lighting on....

---

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