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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 12:17:08 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #165
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fordtrucks80up-digest Wednesday, October 15 1997 Volume 01 : Number 165



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Need a center cap. [cvanhooser juno.com (Charles R. Van Hooser)]
Re: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT ["Bob Leifer" ]
Rusted out v8 oil pan [David Hertzberg ]
Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab [silent.bob juno.com]
Re: OIL [silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)]
Re: Overheating! [William Street ]
THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK [bigguy ]
electrical problem? [DantzlerRC aol.com]
1989 Ranger with 2.0L and carb [Nelson ]
RE: electrical problem? [Steven McCullough ]
Need Center Cap [Larry Smeins ]
[none] [Jared ]
RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff.... ["Stephen M. Brown"
RE: electrical problem? [petere mitre.org (Peter D. Engels)]
[none] [Jared ]
What is TSB? [Midwest96 aol.com]
Re: Robert 7.3 cutting off [WClou60583 aol.com]
RE: electical questions / supercharger stuff.... [Geoffrey Hoffman
Drilling the front bumper [Tony Rio ]

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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 06:36:50 -0400
From: cvanhooser juno.com (Charles R. Van Hooser)
Subject: Need a center cap.

Tony,
If you can't find an aftermarket cap that you like try calling Kearny
Mesa Ford in San Diego at 1-800-635-6669, they sell parts at cost plus
20%, that $75 dollars you were quoted is probably list price which is
most of the time cost plus 100%. That $75 dollar part will probably cost
in the $30-40 dollar range. I have bought lots of parts from them over
the last year and have been extremely satisfied with the price and
service. And they do ship ship, I live in South Carolina.
Chuck



Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 16:58:01 -0600
From: Tony Rio
Subject: Need a center cap.

Hey folks...

Looking for the a center spindle cap for my black '94 F150. One of mine
went flying off while leaving a toll plaza on I294, and it was WAY to
dangerous to try to pull over and hop out to get it. This is the small
center
hubcap for the argent style rims. The cap head needs to be the
red-maroon color. I called a few dealers, but they want in the
neighborhood of $75.00 for one! (I think they're on crack or
something...)
Also, my local boneyard doesn't have any in that color. I would like to
pay
$20.00 or so, +shipping.
Also, does anyone have the black '94 w/ the silver running stripe? Mine
is
the only one I've ever seen in the Chicagoland area.

Thanks!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 07:40:35 -0400
From: "Bob Leifer"
Subject: Re: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT

Robert,

Congratulations and good luck with your new Ranger! I also got a '97XLT,
but a short bed, and the 3.0 litre V6 engine with auto tranny. I love my
truck too.

Bob Leifer
- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Stinnett TSO8352 - HOMENODE
To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 2:27 AM
Subject: 1997 Ford Ranger XLT


>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
>
>Hey all -
>
>Just purchased a 1997 Ford Ranger XLT 114"WB 4cyl about two weeks ago and
was
>thrilled to find this list. What a wonderful truck! It's very well built
and
>I can see I will be getting many years of satisfaction out of it.
>
>
>I basically went with the 4 cyl because I live in a mostly flat part of the
>U.S. and bought it mainly for recreational uses and not hauling. Though
>I did decide to go with the longer wheelbase.
>
>It is black clearcoat (attracts dust like a magnet!) and the interior is
one
>of the best rides I have ever had.
>
>This is my first truck and I'm still getting used to all the differences
>between it and a car. When I first got it I thought there was a problem
>because of a noise coming from the bed area when I had the rear window
open.
>Everytime I was accelerating I'd hear it! The dealer informed me this was
>perfectly normal. When the truck idles I sometimes wonder if it is even on
>-- very smooth idle!
>
>I'm very pleased with it and look forward to having a lot of great use out
of
>it.
>
>Robert
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+----------------- Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com -----------------+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 97 07:25:31 PDT
From: David Hertzberg
Subject: Rusted out v8 oil pan

Reading the original post on the rusted oil pans led me to take a look at the
pan on my f250. there was plenty of rust on the bottom and sides of the pan,
but the steel underneath the rust and paint appears to have been in good
shape. i used turpentine to clean off the residual oil then took off the rust
with very coarse sandpaper (50 grit, i think). I recently bought this stuff
called Extend (it comes in a spray can) which is designed to chemicaly
interact with rust to neutralize it. You spray on three light coatings,
each about 2 minutes apart. The net effect is to turn all the rusted areas
black--over which you can paint or which you can just leave alone. I highly
recommend it. FYI. David

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 08:57:52 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
Subject: Re: info required on 97 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD Ext. cab

On Mon, 13 Oct 1997 10:56:14 PDT "Mike Wiatt"
writes:

>Quick little story...(if you know what the Grapevine, a pretty good
>climb, is in CA then it helps)I was going dirt bike riding in Gorman.
>I
>had 30 gallons of water in the bed of my truck along with a
>motorcycle.
>The rest of the bed was filled with firewood. I was towing a 3-bike
>trailer that was full. Besides me there were 3 other adults in the
>car.
>My truck held 65 mph all the way up the grade without even heating up
>and the a/c was on. Needless to say I am glad I got the 4.0

Its the same way with my 2.3L , then again, every Ford that I have owned
or
my family has owned ran cool.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 09:50:45 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
Subject: Re: OIL

On Tue, 14 Oct 1997 13:54:00 -0400 bigguy writes:
>I was wondering what you guys think of oil treatments and synthetics.
>Do you think I should put a oil treatment in my 4.0 v6 or a full
>synthetic oil, or both, or neither. If you think it is a good idea
>which brands should I use.
>
>I am just curious on what kind of experiences have you guys had with
>stuff like Duralube, TM8, Prolong, and so on.
>
>Thanks,
>Jim

Before you even try any treatments, look up this web site,
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.euro.net/TDRS/MINIWEB/oil_additives.html

You are better off sticking with either straight oil, or a synthetic oil
like Mobil-1.

I went ahead and tried the Mobil-1 even though it was expensive, but
everyone raved about it, so I said what the heck.

In hot weather, I cant tell any difference. But now that its starting to
get cool, I can tell a difference in starting. The true test will be in
freezing temps.


.---. .-----------
/ \ __ / ------
/ / \(..)/ -----
////// ' \/ ` --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordManTed.com (Mustang Shop)
//// / // : : --- http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.FordRanger.com (Ranger Site)
// / / /` '--
// //..\
=======UU====UU===[silent.bob juno.com]=[95 Ranger SOHC 2.3L]=
'//||\`
''``

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 12:49:42 -0700
From: William Street
Subject: Re: Overheating!

If it has a fan clutch you may want to check that. Be careful though -
I replaced one once - the car still overheated and after going thru
h*ll trying to find the problem it turned out that the NEW one was
also bad.

billy casper wrote:
>
> First of all Thanks to everone who has made this list possible. I have a
> 1981 ford
> courier ( I know it's a hybrrid ) but I really need some help! For some
> reason it keeps overheating, I have replaced the water pump, thermostat
> and flushed the cooling system. Their are no visable signs of leaking
> and there is no water in the oil.
> I have done everthing I know any suggestions? Thanks in advance Bill
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

- --
========================================================================
'Progress & Web Consulting'

William Street Mailto:wstreet streetsys.com
Street Systems, Inc. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.streetsys.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 10:21:55 -0400
From: bigguy
Subject: THANKS FOR THE FEEDBACK

Thanks for all the feedback about oil additives. After reading that
snake oil article I decided not to use any kind of additives at all.
That was some interesting facts in that article and I am glad you guys
brought it to my attention.

Thanks again,
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 10:36:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: DantzlerRC aol.com
Subject: electrical problem?

Eric W Sneed wrote:

>>I have 89 f-150 4x4 with a 4.9L L6, the voltmeter in the dash will drop
>>from normal range(12.5 to 14.0v) down to approx 10v. What's confusing
>>me is that when i tap on the gauge it will jump back up to normal.
>>However when running the heater, it will drop off again. Also the
>>battery light will come on from time to time. I know that it is not the
>>battery(two different brand new batts)that is causing the problem. Any
>>insight into what might be the problem would be appreciated.

Sounds like you have a ground wire problem. If the problem responds to other
switched loads like it does to the heater, you can be sure of it. Check
and clean both batery cable connections first (both ends). Then follow the
ground wire circuit all the way to the battery. Remove, clean and replace
each connector. I use Oxi-guard (a conductive grease sold at hardware and
electrical supply stores for the lubrication of circuit breakers). It
prevents corrosion. This stuff works good for bayonet base trailer lights
too.

I might also add that when an electrical meter responds to tapping, it
indicates that the meter has a sticky needle, a mechanical problem inside the
meter. This doesn't happen often on autos because there is so much vibration
all the time the needle is kept loose.

Ground problems are hard to locate, unless it something very obvious, like....

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