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Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 11:13:30 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #151
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Tuesday, October 7 1997 Volume 01 : Number 151



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: Buying a 88 F250 4x4 [David Hertzberg ]
RE: 1997 F150 limited slip rear differential [Will Wood
Re: Winches [jlester naxs.com (Jason Lester)]
more power [bigguy ]
RE: PINGING ["Stephen M. Brown" ]
Re: '95 Ranger Shift Noise [silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)]
Re: Truck suck? Should've bought Ford [silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)]
Dealer Decals [Brian Pynn ]
Re: 1997 F150 limited slip rear differential [R Mills
89 Bronco II ["Judy Thill (MG MSMAIL)" ]
Re: Dealer Decals [Ken Payne ]
Re: Dealer Decals [petere mitre.org (Peter D. Engels)]
RE: Dealer Decals [Brian Pynn ]
RE: Dealer Decals [Dave Haugen ]
Re: 89 Bronco II ["David J. Baldwin" ]
98 F150 toy questions ["Judy Thill (MG MSMAIL)" ]
RE: Dealer Decals [petere mitre.org (Peter D. Engels)]
Re: 1997 F150 limited slip rear differential ["David J. Baldwin"

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 97 05:40:34 PDT
From: David Hertzberg
Subject: RE: Buying a 88 F250 4x4

Congrats on your truck. I own the identical vehicle although mine has the
original 7.3 in it, with about 94k. I've not had any serious problems, but I
also take meticulous care of the truck and engine. I use the block heater
every morning before I go to work, summer and winter, spring and fall, for
about three hours (I have it hooked up to a timer so I don;t have to get up at
2 am). This is critical. I use Stanadyne fuel additive every time I add fuel.
I also use a coolant additive sold by either Fleetrite or Pencool to prevent
liner cavitation. The u-joints on the drive shaft typically do not have grease
fittings, so you may want to have these replaced as a preventitive (unless they
are already squeaking). Periodically tighten all the valve cover bolts, or else
you will think you have an oil leak. Use a motorcraft oil filter-- its less
prone to leakage. The mileage you cite sounds about right. Change oil and air
filter as often as you can afford it--the 3000 mile rule for the engine if ok,
but because of the combustion process and the need for clean air, I recommend
doing it more often. Use a high quality oil like Fleetrite 15W-40; you
can swith to a 10W-30 in the winter. Change the fuel filter at 30K, and don't
forget the transaxle fluids once a year (the front has to be siphoned out, and
rear plate has to be removed to drain the rear transaxle). I recently
installed a pre-oiler (it took about four hours) and am very pleased with it.
My truck has no front-end problems... maybe I'm lucky. Also make sure you
have good batteries. You got an excellent deal, now just do the preventative
maintenance and it will last forever. David



>
>I have found a 1988 Ford F250 Supercab 4x4 with a 7.3 Diesel and have a
>few questions about it and also want any comments about problem areas, or
>general info from anyone who has owned one from this era. It was a Company
>truck (Daily driver for the general manager) and has had very good care
>and has all the paperwork to back up any repairs or problems. The engine
>was replaced in 92, as the original one from the factory was missing rings
>in 1 or 2 cylinders(!) and the new engine has about 50,000 miles on it.
>The truck has 124K on it now. The body is in good condition, with about 5
>small dents in it (on the top of the sides of the bed) The paint is in OK
>condition with a couple areas of peeled off paint. It has had recent new
>brakes, new alternator, glow plugs, rear tires, starter, stereo, and
>repaired power windows. The tie rods were replaced in 92. It has seen very
>little 4x4 duty, mainly inclement weather or hunting trips. It is the XLT
>model and has air/tilt/cruise/power windows and locks/cloth interior. I
>have been looking for a diesel although I was looking for something newer
>with less miles. However, since I know the guy, he is willing to give me
>what appears to be a great deal on it at only $6000.=20
>
>What problem areas does this truck have? I have heard reports of front end
>problems on this era of Ford 4x4's. Is this true? What are the problems?=20
>
>Fuel mileage is supposed to be around 17-18 empty, and 12 loaded. Does
>this sound about right?=20
>
>The truck has a been in the shop for a new alternator, regulator and
>checking up on charging problems. All of this area has been replaced and
>supposedly as long as you plug in the block heaer on cold nites it starts=
>=20
>easily. Should I be concerned about this?
>
>Please either reply directly or CC: me if you reply to the list so I can
>easily get the replies and respond to them, My mail program doesn't digest
>lists very well when replying ;)=20
>
>Thanks for any input any of you can give me on this!=20
>
>=2E.Jay =20
>
>=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=
>=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=
>=B0
>=20
> jayvanv teleport.com .sig under construction. standard disclaimers.
>=20
>=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=
>=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=B0=AC=AC=B0=A4*o,=B8_=B8,o*=A4=
>=B0
>=20
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
>+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 05:26:03 -0600
From: Will Wood
Subject: RE: 1997 F150 limited slip rear differential

I have an 87 F350 with Ford Locking rear end, the truck is two wheel drive.
Other than it feels too light in the rear with the 6.9 Up front the diff is
great. Going around corners though on snow and ice can take some getting
used to. The rear tends to push outward since both rear wheels get the power.

If you want to get rid of the limited slip, maybe Ford has an option for
the 150s, but for my money I'd go with a Detroit Locker for a 4X4. I replaced
my diffs in my 85 Ranger 4X4 with Detroit Lockers since I'd had good
luck with them in a 72 Scout II. These things are noisy, i.e., when they
engage they clunk but they deliver the power to the wheels.

Will Wood

KdF Service and Supply
801 731 3360
801 732 1250 Fax.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 08:49:17 -0400
From: jlester naxs.com (Jason Lester)
Subject: Re: Winches

I too was considering the Mile Marker until reading the new issue of
"4-Wheel and Off-Road". They test it against a Warn 9000. The Mile Marker
was the best for pulling a dead weight, but wasn't nearly as good as the
Warn in real-world situations. Also, it blew out two steering pumps on
their test truck and completely cooked the fluid. Their recommendation was
to get the Warn and let it cool ever so often if necessary. Check it out
in the new issue. It mentions the test on the front cover.

Jason

At 09:08 PM 10/6/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Couple of comments re winches - just bought one for my (new) F350
>
>- Mile Marker was my choice: hydraulic, rated for continuous usage (rather
>than
> intermittent as with Warn etc), competitive price and the people in
> Pompano Beach (HQ) were friendly and helpful. However, my local Ford
> service manager pointed out that ANY problem with steering hydraulics
> would be extremely expensive to fix, and they would look VERY closely
> at whether the winch had a hand in causing the problem. I got the message
> and cravenly went to my second choice: Warn M12000.

>I was casually looking at Mile Marker, and was also concerned about
additional
>load on the Power Steering pump/system. Did you by any chance give Mile
Marker
>an opportunity to respond to the concerns raised by Ford? It might be
>interesting to see what they have to say. (Despite the fact they would be
>biased)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 08:53:36 -0400
From: bigguy
Subject: more power

I was wondering what kind of power mods I could do for my 94 4.0L V6. I

saw in other messages earlier something about power chips. Do you know
if my truck can use one of these and if so what is a good one to use?
What kind of performance could I expect if I am able to use one?

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 08:21:23 -0500
From: "Stephen M. Brown"
Subject: RE: PINGING

MD,

Hey that's nothing...I even went as far as to check voltages to the entire
EGR system (EGR valve position sensor, solenoid controller, etc) and idle
air bypass system. Then pulled the EGR valve, cleaned it, and reinstalled!
Of course, I pulled the EEC codes first, to be sure. But since he posted
the problem, I am assuming he wants some answers as to what could be the
trouble. As I learned, you can never know enough, and this guy now is now
armed with many potential causes.

You're right tho, unless his old filter is full of crud! If that was the
case, then the EEC could've adapted to a highly restrictive intake, then
suddenly with the K&N, he's got MONSTER airflow! So replacing a clogged
intake might make the pinging go away, but you don't have a real solution.
If it's clean, then maybe.

My new suggestion if this is the case (clogged filter run for a long time)
is to disconnect the battery for AT LEAST 15 minutes. It will erase the
EEC computer's stored memory & cause it to relearn with the K&N...might do
the trick. Some mechanics make a fortune by doing this day in and day out!

steve

>Date: Mon, 06 Oct 1997 23:45:20 -0700
>From: MD Wayment
>Subject: Re: PINGING

>WOW, before I did all those suggestions Steve, which are quite numerous
and
>time consuming, I'd first put the original air filter back in and get the
>engine back to a known good condition first. If it stops pinging then
probably
>the K&N setup. If not then it wasn't the K&N addition. A little logic
goes
>far. Start back at first base first!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 10:13:11 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
Subject: Re: '95 Ranger Shift Noise

On Mon, 06 Oct 1997 13:06:46 -0500 Bradley and Debbie Miller
writes:

>been all the way in and yet I've got the weird noise. I've never had
>it
>happen in any other gear other than the 2nd-1st shift. I don't think
>it
>happens with the truck stopped.


Shifting from 2nd to 1st, 1st to 2nd, or it doesnt matter? How fast are
you going
when you shift?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 10:13:11 EDT
From: silent.bob juno.com (Silent . Bob)
Subject: Re: Truck suck? Should've bought Ford

On Mon, 6 Oct 1997 08:42:05 -0700 Bob Scola
writes:
>>Date: Fri, 03 Oct 1997 18:28:58 -0700
>>From: MD Wayment
>>Subject: Re: Sticker
>>
>>As Marv Albert would say ......... YESSSSSSS!!
>>
>>Ezekial wrote:
>>
>>> I will have to vote for the following:
>>> Truck suck? Should've bought Ford...
>>> www.ford-truck.com
>
>Then Marv would have bit you on the ass .....
>
>I'll vote for "Truck Suck" too.



Im not so sure about it.... ....sounds like a good way to get your truck
key'ed

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 07:20:09 -0700
From: Brian Pynn
Subject: Dealer Decals

All this talk about "TruckSuck?" stickers has reminded me I'd like to
get rid of a few stickers of my own. My 97 Ranger was delivered with
hideous dealer name decals stuck on both side panels of my truck
directly underneath the Ranger XL badges. They're plain white and
contrast horribly with both the factory badge and the cayman green
color. Any suggestions for removing these decals w/o damaging the
clearcoat? Also, I tried nail polish remover and windex on the inside
of my passenger window, but still can't get the residue of the factory
options and price sheet sticker off. It's this ugly square of glue that
I'd like to remove. Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 08:34:26 -0600
From: R Mills
Subject: Re: 1997 F150 limited slip rear differential

Tom:
I bought a 97 4WD w/ limited slip also.
The dealer expained limited slip as the power shifts to the wheel that
has the most resistance, he did not mention any "break away torque".
That seems to defeat the purpose of why you have it. However, dealers
info should always be taken skeptically. You may be right. I will be
interested to see the responses you get.

If there is a break away torque, how does it work when you are in 4WD?
Does the front wheels have a similar "feature"?

>
> I have '97 F150 , 4x4 and limited slip rear =
> differential. They explained that the rear diff was designed with a
> break-away torque of 20 foot-pounds,

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 09:32:11 -0500
From: "Judy Thill (MG MSMAIL)"
Subject: 89 Bronco II

Less than 12 months ago, I had my clutch replaced on my 89 Bronco II.
It has a 2.9 and is a 4 x 4. At the time of the clutch replacement, it
had about 85,000 miles on it. I now have 103,000 miles and have a
rattle that involves the clutch. When the clutch is in, the rattle
stops. I was told it was a throw-out bearing. Could someone confirm
that? Also, is the throw-out bearing something that would normally be
replaced with a new clutch at 85,000 miles? The garage that replaced the
clutch tried to screw me on other things, so I am wondering if they
should have replaced my throw-out bearing while they had things torn
apart. Any idea on reasonable cost for a replacement? Another
question... if it is a throw-out bearing, how critical is it to
drive/not drive before I get it fixed? One more question... if it is
the throw-out bearing, how much extra will it be to replace the rear
main seal? Thanks. Just don't want to get screwed.



J. Thill, CSP
Fire Operations Officer
Maple Grove Fire Department

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 10:41:06 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Dealer Decals

At 07:20 AM 10/7/97 -0700, you wrote:
>All this talk about "TruckSuck?" stickers has reminded me I'd like to
>get rid of a few stickers of my own. My 97 Ranger was delivered with
>hideous dealer name decals stuck on both side panels of my truck
>directly underneath the Ranger XL badges. They're plain white and
>contrast horribly with both the factory badge and the cayman green
>color. Any suggestions for removing these decals w/o damaging the
>clearcoat? Also, I tried nail polish remover and windex on the inside
>of my passenger window, but still can't get the residue of the factory
>options and price sheet sticker off. It's this ugly square of glue that
>I'd like to remove. Thanks.

A blow dryer will usually melt the adhesive.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 11:04:33 -0400
From: petere mitre.org (Peter D. Engels)
Subject: Re: Dealer Decals

>All this talk about "TruckSuck?" stickers has reminded me I'd like to
>get rid of a few stickers of my own. My 97 Ranger was delivered with
>hideous dealer name decals stuck on both side panels of my truck
>directly underneath the Ranger XL badges. They're plain white and
>contrast horribly with both the factory badge and the cayman green
>color. Any suggestions for removing these decals w/o damaging the
>clearcoat? Also, I tried nail polish remover and windex on the inside
>of my passenger window, but still can't get the residue of the factory
>options and price sheet sticker off. It's this ugly square of glue that
>I'd like to remove. Thanks.

Try rubbing with paint thinner.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 08:03:03 -0700
From: Brian Pynn
Subject: RE: Dealer Decals

Wouldn't paint thinner harm the paint surface?

> ----------
> From: petere mitre.org[SMTP:petere mitre.org]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 1997 8:04 AM
> To: fordtrucks80up listservice.net
> Subject: Re: Dealer Decals
>
> >All this talk about "TruckSuck?" stickers has reminded me I'd like to
> >get rid of a few stickers of my own. My 97 Ranger was delivered with
> >hideous dealer name decals stuck on both side panels of my truck
> >directly underneath the Ranger XL badges. They're plain white and
> >contrast horribly with both the factory badge and the cayman green
> >color. Any suggestions for removing these decals w/o damaging the
> >clearcoat? Also, I tried nail polish remover and windex on the
> inside
> >of my passenger window, but still can't get the residue of the
> factory
> >options and price sheet sticker off. It's this ugly square of glue
> that
> >I'd like to remove. Thanks.
>
> Try rubbing with paint thinner.
>
>
>
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer
> --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net,
> |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net
> |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
> --+
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 8:31:29 PDT
From: Dave Haugen
Subject: RE: Dealer Decals

The best thing I've found to remove dealer stickers is a hair dryer. Just heat
up the decal starting at one end. Peel it slowly so most of the adhesive comes
off with the decal. For any residual glue that is left on the paint I use a
product called Desolvit. It removes all of the glue and does not harm your
paint. Wax with a good Carnuba product after area is clean. Do not use paint
thinner. You may end up with a dull look that you can't get rid of.



Wouldn't paint thinner harm the paint surface?

----------
From: petere mitre.org[SMTP:petere mitre.org]
Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 1997 8:04 AM
To: fordtrucks80up listservice.net
Subject: Re: Dealer Decals

>All this talk about "TruckSuck?" stickers has reminded me I'd like to
>get rid of a few stickers of my own. My 97 Ranger was delivered with
>hideous dealer name decals stuck on both side panels of my truck
>directly underneath the Ranger XL badges. They're plain white and
>contrast horribly with both the factory badge and the cayman green
>color. Any suggestions for removing these decals w/o damaging the
>clearcoat? Also, I tried nail polish remover and windex on the
inside
>of my passenger window, but still can't get the residue of the
factory
>options and price sheet sticker off. It's this ugly square of glue
that
>I'd like to remove. Thanks.

Try rubbing with paint thinner.






------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 10:49:17 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: 89 Bronco II

Judy Thill (MG MSMAIL) wrote:
>
> Less than 12 months ago, I had my clutch replaced on my 89 Bronco II.
> It has a 2.9 and is a 4 x 4. At the time of the clutch replacement, it
> had about 85,000 miles on it. I now have 103,000 miles and have a
> rattle that involves the clutch. When the clutch is in, the rattle
> stops. I was told it was a throw-out bearing. Could someone confirm
> that? Also, is the throw-out bearing something that would normally be
> replaced with a new clutch at 85,000 miles? The garage that replaced the
> clutch tried to screw me on other things, so I am wondering if they
> should have replaced my throw-out bearing while they had things torn
> apart. Any idea on reasonable cost for a replacement? Another
> question... if it is a throw-out bearing, how critical is it to
> drive/not drive before I get it fixed? One more question... if it is
> the throw-out bearing, how much extra will it be to replace the rear
> main seal? Thanks. Just don't want to get screwed.

I believe the ones that I remember made noise when the clutch pedal was
in, but this could be a possibility. The bearing should pull back from
the pressure plate when the clutch is not in, and therefore should not
make any noise normally.

Throwout bearings are cheap, and given the hassle to replace one, it
pays--and should be standard operating proceedure--to replace it with
the clutch. This should've been done.

Throwout bearings wear out faster if you ride the clutch, use the pedal
for a footrest, do a lot of stop and go driving in traffic, and wait for
signals with the clutch in. Using neutral when waiting at a light will
save the bearing. Also the end pressure on the crankshaft will cause the
end thrust bearing surfaces in the engine to wear prematurely, as well
(few people ever mention this) when you spend a lot of time on the
clutch.

Your throwout bearing should last more than 18K miles even if you lean
on the clutch all of the time. I'd look for simpler things first (like
stuff they might have left loose after the job at 85K miles). Above
all, I would get someone trustworthy to work on the vehicle.

- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 10:48:03 -0500
From: "Judy Thill (MG MSMAIL)"
Subject: 98 F150 toy questions

I ordered a new 1998 F 150, 5 speed, super cab, 4 x 4. I have been
looking at accessories, such as step bars, bed cover, and bed liner. I
like the Westin chrome step bars which do not require drilling. When
looking at a catalog, it said you couldn't get them for a super cab 4 x
4 with skid plates and an 8 foot bed. Mine is a short box with skid
plates. A friend who just picked up the same truck as mine in a 97
model said he couldn't get those step bars for his truck. It doesn't
have to be Westin (although they have a 5 yr warranty on rust), but I
want chrome/shiny bars where you don't have to drill, yet have front and
back non-skid step for extended cab. I just heard an ad where a local
store has brand new stainless step bars that have a lifetime warranty.
Anyone know anything about them? Do they require drilling? What do
they look like? Any suggestions?

Also, I am looking at getting a fiberglass bed cover. I want one that
can be painted to match, has a lock, keeps the elements out, has gas
struts, and is sturdy. What has worked best for the rest of you? Is
there a cover that doesn't require drilling? I heard one guy said he had
three fiberglass covers and all three cracked. He was now looking at
vinyl. Also, does it matter whether or not is has a spoiler? Does the
spoiler have any effect on gas mileage? I drive 80 miles a day for
work.

One more question, then I'll shut up... I am (obviously) new and just
got on the list at the tail end of the comments on bed liners and rust,
so I didn't get to read all the comments. Do hard plastic bed liners
cause early rust or not? Living here in Minnesota, I get enough early
rust, I don't want to accelerate it even more. Thanks!


J. Thill, CSP
Fire Operations Officer
Maple Grove Fire Department

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 12:43:44 -0400
From: petere mitre.org (Peter D. Engels)
Subject: RE: Dealer Decals

>Wouldn't paint thinner harm the paint surface?
>
This was in reply to a question about removing glue left by a window
sticker. It'll be OK, unless the truck has painted windows.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 12:14:20 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: 1997 F150 limited slip rear differential

R Mills wrote:
>
> Tom:
> I bought a 97 4WD w/ limited slip also.
> The dealer expained limited slip as the power shifts to the wheel that
> has the most resistance, he did not mention any "break away torque".
>
> >
> > I have '97 F150 , 4x4 and limited slip rear =
> > differential. They explained that the rear diff was designed with a
> > break-away torque of 20 foot-pounds,

A limited-slip differential differs (pun not intended) from a normal
differential in that it has a clutch pack instead of spider gears that
connect the two wheels. This way, when a wheel loses traction, you
still will get some torque to the wheel with traction, but you will only
get as much as the clutch is set up to deliver.

What I've noticed with mine (3.55 LS) is that on really slick surfaces,
I have enough coupling between the wheels to produce "tail happy"
behavior (both spin free), but if I have one wheel on sand, and the
other on road, there is not enough torque to accelerate the truck, and
the wheel on sand spins free.

I would tend to believe the 20 foot-pound torque (which isn't much)
based on experiences with my truck. I suspect that it should be set a
little tighter for a vehicle this size.

Options? I wouldn't be surprised if there were different clutch springs
or shims available for adjusting this. The service manual should cover
this. If you tighten it too much, severe tire wear can result. Also,
since the clutches wear, you need to change the rear-end lube regularly
to get the particulates out.

Someone posted a question about the "Torsen" differential available in....

---

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