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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 00:38:57 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #132
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Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Friday, September 26 1997 Volume 01 : Number 132



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Fast Idle Problem [Robert Hackney ]
'86 Bronco II [Pete Wilhite ]
Re: Mass Air conversion ["Stephen M. Brown"
Re: Ford F-150 Mileage, Cold Start Problem, and Misc. ["David J. Baldwin"]
Re: Fast Idle Problem ["John D. Bowne" ]
F-series for snow plowing? [Kent Premo ]
RE: F-series for snow plowing? [Ron Madurski ]
RE: Ford Winch Systems [quadrai oberon.ark.com (quadrai)]
Re: Ford F-150 Mileage, Cold Start Problem, and Misc. ["S. Spaulding"
Re: Tire Question [Jerad Heffner ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #130 ["Lare/Eric" ]
web site -- links or other lists [Edward A Arkin ]
F150 shocks [Al Spangler ]

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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 07:31:03 -0400
From: Robert Hackney
Subject: Fast Idle Problem

>From: Richard Vaughan
>Subject:

>I have a 1990 F250, 4X4, 5.8 motor with 33K miles. The rig is stock
>except for a cat back Flowmaster. The truck starts easily and runs
>great. However, it does have an intermitent problem with the engine
> >idle. Most of the time it is OK. Sometimes it will idle at 1500 RPM,
>or higher. It will not slow down even if I rev the
engine and then
>back off the throttle. If I shut the motor off and immediately
>restart it the idle returns to normal. (about 800 RPM in neutral). The
>problem occurs randomly after the motor is warmed up. I'm stumped. Any
>ideas? I would appreciate any and all advice. Thank you in advance for
>your help.
>
>Richard

Richard,

I had the same problem, it turned out to be the throttle position sensor (TPS)
Most of the time it won't set any codes in the computer except an occasional
'Can"t control low band rpm' or something to that effect.

Good luck,
Bob





















------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 07:27:46 -0700
From: Pete Wilhite
Subject: '86 Bronco II

I have an '86 Bronco II 2.9L V6 with a Fuel injection problem. At all
engine rpm(s) it surges 200-300 rpm. Have not had time to look at anything
other than fuel pressure and clean the T-body. I also looked for vacume
leaks with a can of carb cleaner, no success. Has anyone ran into this?
Please respond with any ideas, I would appreciate it.

Thanks, -Pete


********************
Pete Wilhite
peterw qualcomm.com

Office: W170G2
(619) 651-0546
pager: (619) 636-8398
********************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 09:47:42 -0500
From: "Stephen M. Brown"
Subject: Re: Mass Air conversion

> From: Lehmandp aol.com
> Subject: Re: Mass Air conversion
>
> while. Everytime I call Motorsport tech line, they say, "Nope, still
not
> delivering that thing."
> >>
> Even though they have this in the SVO catalog?

Yup, call em yourself...the tech line for SVO (# is in the catalog). Those
guys have told me multiple times that it isn't available.

> I've been doing business with an authorized Ford Motorsport dealer who
wants
> to wait until October to go the next round; this Lightning Mass Air and
H.O.
> cam. I wonder if they're just stalling because the part isn't ready yet!

Could be.

>
> The more I read about the Ford EEC-IV, oxygen sensors, Mass Air, and
Speed
> Density the more confused I get about why we should convert to Mass Air.

Just depends on what you want. Speed density can only adjust (EEC-IV is
ADAPTIVE...it learns & adjusts) so far. A cam will throw it outta whack by
changing your engine characteristics beyond it's built in data. Intakes,
headers, heads, cat-back....those are OK, they aren't as agressive as a cam
change.

> Especially after my dealer told me I'd be street legal after so many
changes
> to my engine -- and you're not helping with your super charger. Doesn't
all
> this change the "air pump" characteristics to the point where the
computer
> needs to be reprogrammed? And isn't the point to have Mass Air so that
it
> eliminates the air pump characteristic from the equation?

My supercharger has a little doo-dad that has to fool the computer.
Various pieces of equipment are expecting a vacuum reading ALWAYS. With
the supercharger, I've got a boost pressure reading >0 under heavy
throttle. The doo-dad (Vacuum-Solenoid assembly) changes the boost
reading, so it never sees the boost. The line to the MAP sensor has a
bleed off valve that blows off anything above 0. Also, because Mr. Engine
> needs more fuel when it gets more air (boost), ALL supercharger kits come
with a Fuel Management Unit which reads boost & shuts off the fuel return
line (fuel rail to tank), increasing available pressure. I can watch my
fuel pressure gauge (45 psi at cruise) jump to 80-85 psi under boost.

Pros/Cons of Mass Air (from my own reading...not gospel):

SD is faster, MA has to sample (read air flow), then adjust.
SD has fewer restrictions is inlet, MA has meter that interferes with flow
MA is MUCH more flexible, SD requires look-up tables of data.
If SD can be reprogrammed (C&M CALIBRATOR), it is ideal. If it cannot,
Mass Air is better for mods like cams & major porting.
SD requires workarounds for superchargers. MA does not (except Fuel
Management Unit).

Conclusion: With a supercharger (street legal at 6psi boost), I avoid the
switch to mass air & probably get the same hp increase for the same/less
money.

>
> Take care,
> - -David :-)

good luck
steve

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 10:16:59 -0500
From: "David J. Baldwin"
Subject: Re: Ford F-150 Mileage, Cold Start Problem, and Misc.

Shawn & Jennifer Clark wrote:
>
> Lump me in with the crowd of F-150 owners with lousy mileage. I'm
> averaging about 13 mpg city and highway (including a long trip with several
> fills--13.3 mpg consistently.) The truck is a '91 with Supercab, 302, and
> the E4OD transmission

I have the same, except a 95 model. Just calculated milage this morning
with a mix of about 80% highway / 20% city driving: 15.6 MPG. It's been
hot here, so that was running the AC all the time. I stomp on it a lot,
too, so it's not like I'm trying to wean it or set any records.

Two things bother me about what you wrote (below):

> 2.
Exhaust
> > manifold is cracked completely in two behind the last cylinder on the
> passenger side. Looks like poor, cantilevered design. It
seals up within
> a few seconds of starting.
> 5. I keep losing coolant out of the reservoir, slow process, have never
> caught it bubbling or anything like that although I keep trying.

These are classic signs of past overheating. Your previous
"Neanderthal" may have run it dry and the overheating cracked the
exhaust manifold--and perhaps a head, too, causing you to lose coolant
internally. If you're losing coolant, and it isn't leaking out, you're
probably burning it.

If you're burning it, and it's a slow consumption, try comparing your
plugs. I had a slow consumption problem that turned out to be a head
gasket. The cylinder where the leak was had black powdery dry carbon
dust deposits on it. These deposits fouled the plug, causing rough
running (especially when cold). Milage also took a dive. Just look for
differences of any type between the plugs.

Good luck. Keep us posted.
- --
Best Regards,

Dave Baldwin
Dallas, TX
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 10:08:31 -0700
From: "John D. Bowne"
Subject: Re: Fast Idle Problem

>>From: Richard Vaughan
>>Subject: Fast Idle
>
Richard,

I have basically the same truck with the same engine and miles, at about
30K I had a similar problem, that stumped all of the shops, including about
3 dealers. Eventually, I rigged up my DVM (Digital Multimeter) to the
output of the TPS sensor and found that during the higher idle periods, the
output was elevated. It is supposed to be a bit below 1.0 volt. Mine was
going to about 1.3 at times.

I was told by one of the dealers that the TPS can cause the 'idle' to go to
about 4K in the worst possible case.

Replacing the TPS with one from a local auto parts store completely fixed
the problem. It cost about $30 bucks and took about an hour to fix.

Good Luck,

johnbo




John D. Bowne - Cornelius, OR
John.D.Bowne tek.com
+-----------------------------------------------+
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