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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 13:50:11 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks80up-digest)
To: fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #130
Reply-To: fordtrucks80up ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks80up-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks80up-digest Wednesday, September 24 1997 Volume 01 : Number 130



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 And Newer Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #128 ["Jim Bielecki"
Re: Three questions for the Welders in the group. [Will Wood
Drop Kits for Explorer [Mike Krause ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #127 ["C. E. White" ]
Re: All lists back up. Please read [BigDogF250 aol.com]
Limited slip rear for 2WD F-250 [Andrew T Vincitore
Overheating Problems [bigguy ]
Re: '98 Ranger-what do ya think? [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Re: Overheating Problems [Don Lewoniuk ]
radio [William Holmes ]
RE: Overheating Problems [Ron Madurski ]
re:radio [KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)]
Re: Overheating Problems [bigguy ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #127 [droberts MIT.EDU (D Robertson)]
Re: Overheating Problems [Don Lewoniuk ]
Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #127 [Don Lewoniuk ]
re:radio [John Doe ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 06:33:39 -0500
From: "Jim Bielecki"
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #128

> Congratulations!
>
> As far as the new looks go, I think they did a great job updating it
> without making it radical looking (I personal don't like the new Dodge
> Dakota).
>
> Mechanically, I opted for my '97 because the '98 4X4 WASN'T the TTB. My
> personal doubt centered on a new system and it's long term ruggedness.
> IMHO, the TTB is a better off-road suspension than an IFS system is. I
> totally agree that for 2wd (and 4wd that see little dirt), the IFS should
> have much better handling and probably won't wear out tires as quick.
>
> Other than that, I understand that new 4.0L is an SOHC, which if that is
> true would be awesome, particularly in the 2wd, short cab like yours.
The
> rack and pinion steering has to help the Ranger feel tighter and less
vague
> on-center. Ford overall did a good job keeping the Ranger up-to-date.
> Enjoy!


The 4.0L SOHC is NOT available in the '98 Ranger. All of these engines are
earmarked for the Explorer and Mountaineer.

Interestingly, the reason I opted for a '98 Ranger over an '97 was BECAUSE
of the SLA front suspension. TTB may be rugged, but the chronic front tire
alignment problems finally got to me.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 05:30:55 -0600
From: Will Wood
Subject: Re: Three questions for the Welders in the group.

Filip wrote:

>Greetings. I was in a similar situation and was told by reliable sources
>(ie. friend who runs a body-repair shop) that gas welding introduces
>"seeds" of oxidation to the weld itself. Unless you can guarantee some
>sprt of moisture-proof environment (which in a car body, with all its
>stress points and weaknesses and hitting rocks you can NOT), your weld
>will often rust from the INSIDE out. This is bad. I was advised that the
>only way was a MIG welder... and that's what I am [borrowing and] using.

I think the point here is that stick welding using consumable rods without
shielding gas does introduce the issue of contamination. However
typically when using this type of welding the material is often mild steel.
For most home uses, this is very adequate for 12 gauge or heavier material.

MIG introduces the notion of a shielding gas which essentially purges the
ambient atmosphere away from the welding puddle. This makes for a stronger
weld. It's important to have a good technique with MIG welders as well as
TIG welders to insure that the shielding gas is effective. MIG has the
advantage
of autofeed which allows the welder to concentrate on the job at hand rather
than feeding welding stock, similar to stick welding. It can also be dialed
in to work on very thin or very thick materials based upon current and feed
speeds. You can also use self-shielding or flux core wire which allows you
to work on mild grade steel without the shielding gas (don't breath the
fumes!). The flux core is great for repairs where appearance isn't important,
however I wouldn't use it on anything lighter than 15 gauge steel.

TIG requires the hand feeding of the welding stock, however TIG allows
extremely strong and precise welds. Heat control is much more precise so
the welder can control all aspects of penetration. It's better for Aluminum
and Stainless Steel, although both of these can be welded using MIG.

If you're a home hobbyist, I'd suggest a good MIG unit that allows for
shielding gas to be used. I say this since there are units out there that
are intended to use flux core exclusively. Be prepared to pay for a bottle
down the road as well. I just bought a new Oxy setup, It was $375 for the
first Oxygen and Aceteylene bottles. We already have one other, but the
same goes for shielding gas. BTW, the bigger the bottle, the less
expensive it is for the gas. Your local welding supply shop can explain it
to you. However if
you're only doing a small amount, a smaller bottle is probably the better bet.
But most small bottles give you from one to two hours max of welding time.
The
thing is that it costs roughly the same to fill them as the big ones do.. Go
figure.

Another point is the wire that the MIG welder uses, only buy enough wire
that you figure your going to use for the project or for future use. Why?
Corrosion. If you invest in a MIG unit with shielding gas and use corroded
wire - guess what - brittle welds ahead. Most Small MIG units don't use a
wire
wiper as well, your local supply shop can provide you with one. This wipes
the wire off before it goes into the cablehose and helps reduce corrosion
getting to the weld.

Sorry, but with three MIG units and a recently purchased TIG unit I thought
I'd share this with you.
Will Wood

KdF Service and Supply
801 731 3360
801 732 1250 Fax.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 08:51:19 -0500
From: Mike Krause
Subject: Drop Kits for Explorer

Hi all, I was just wondering if anyone can give me some info on where to
get suspension kits for a '91 Explorer(spindles, shocks, I-beams, leaf
springs, etc.). I want to drop it about 4" in the front and 5" in the
back. If anyone can lend some advise I'd greatly appreciate it. Also,
I was thinking of putting the new Cobra R rims on my car but I'm not
sure how to tell if the rims will fit. Does anyone know if they'll fit
or how to find out??? Thanks.
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 12:06:42 -0400
From: "C. E. White"
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #127

Rinerjm aol.com wrote:
>
> '88 F-150 4x4 w/5.0 3spd at
> I am having problems with hard cold starting. Be it first thing in the
> morning or anytime the truck has set for an extended period. Could this be
> linked to the coolant temperature sensor or throttle positioning sensor. Any
> hints would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks, JM

A common problem with fuel injected vehicles is a build-up of deposits
on the intake valves. The deposits are porus and when "dry" they will
absorb much of the fuel your injectors squirt at them. When the deposits
become saturated things return to "normal" and the vehicle starts. After
an extended period of sitting, the gas in the deposits evaporates and
the problem reappears. Chevron sells a fuel treatment ("Clean-Up" I
think) that might remove these deposits. There are also more extreme
treatments for really bad cases. Bigger shops should have a machine that
allows them to go in trough the intake ports (after removing the intake
manifold) and literally blast the deposits away. I am familiar with an
Oldsmobile that frequently develops hard cold starting. As soon as the
trouble develops, the owners runs a bottle of the clean-up through it
and it seems to clear the problem up. I have never personally had this
problem, but I stick to brand name gas. My friend with the Oldsmobile
prefers "Happy Gas" ( a local discount place with a smiley face logo).

Ed

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 13:10:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: BigDogF250 aol.com
Subject: Re: All lists back up. Please read

Ken,
I am a member of the 80 up list as well as the the 79 -61. am i a member of
the 60 and below as well?
Matt, 92 f250 5.8 4x4 6" lift 38" super swampers

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 13:24:12 -0400
From: Andrew T Vincitore
Subject: Limited slip rear for 2WD F-250

I have a 1992 2WD supercab F-250. I would like to have a limited slip rea=
r.
Is there a retrofit or should I find a used unit to install? Obviously I
want it to be cost effective. I have seen units advertised in Summitt
racing's cataloge that say it can be an easy retrofit. My mechanic scoffs=

at this though. Any suggestions, part #s, info is appreciated.

Thanks,

Andrew

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 13:29:20 -0400
From: bigguy
Subject: Overheating Problems

I have an 85' E350 van with a 351W engine. I have had overheating
problems everytime it is idle for more than a minute or so. When the
van is moving at a good speed the temp stays relatively cool. I just
put a new thermostat in and a coolant change and I checked the timing to

try to resolve the problem. There was no change at all except it might
have gotten worse when I changed the thermostat. I put a 195 degree
thermostat in because the guy at the auto part store said that was best
to keep the temprature down. As far as the timing I am not totally
shure where to align the mark with the one on the harmonic balancer. I
see a metal bracket connected to the timing cover but it is a big
bracket and there is lots of places to line it up. I have been lining
it up with the staight edge on the bracket with the eight degree mark on

the balancer. The manual does not tell me where exactly to line up the
marks. I also replaced the timing chain and the water pump about six
months ago and everything was fine up till a month ago. I forgot to add

earlier that I also replaced the fan and clutch to help try to resolve
the problem but I am not positive that it is working properly.

Thanks in advance.
Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 13:39:36, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: Re: '98 Ranger-what do ya think?

Dave,

The 4.0L is NOT the SOHC. That kinda made me mad, but the regular 4
litre still flies in that little truck! I don't think the SOHC will
ever be available because it is the standard engine in the
Mountaineer and Exlporer 4x4 4 door.

Josh

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 11:50:13 -0700
From: Don Lewoniuk
Subject: Re: Overheating Problems

bigguy wrote:
>
> I have an 85' E350 van with a 351W engine. I have had overheating
> problems everytime it is idle for more than a minute or so. When the
> van is moving at a good speed the temp stays relatively cool. I just
> put a new thermostat in and a coolant change and I checked the timing to
>
> try to resolve the problem. There was no change at all except it might
> have gotten worse when I changed the thermostat. I put a 195 degree
> thermostat in

The thermostat you put in stays closed until the block heats up to 195
then opens to circulate coolant into the rad. A 160 thermo would open
35 degrees sooner and help keep things cooler.

>earlier that I also replaced the fan and clutch to help try to resolve
> the problem but I am not positive that it is working properly.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Jim
> If the fan has some drag on it rather than free wheeling after running up
to temp then the clutch is working. Do a comparison cold to hot and see
if you can feel a resistance or drag change.

I'd say your rad is clogging up inside if moving helps cool things down
by passing more air over the fins. Had an 87 tbird clog up last year at
130,000 miles and had to have the rad cleaned out by a shop. It should
run fine (at a higher temp) with the 195 thermo if the rad is doing its
job. With a 160 it'll run consistently cooler as long as the rad is doing
its job.

Cheers, Don

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 13:53:29 -0400
From: William Holmes
Subject: radio

How do I get the stock radio out of my 92 ford F150?? There is 4
holes around the radip face, could this be a way in?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 12:58:56 -0500
From: Ron Madurski
Subject: RE: Overheating Problems

- -----Original Message-----
From: bigguy [SMTP:bigguy shentel.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 1997 12:29 PM
To: fordtrucks80up listservice.net
Subject: Overheating Problems

I have an 85' E350 van with a 351W engine. I have had overheating
problems everytime it is idle for more than a minute or so. When the

...
months ago and everything was fine up till a month ago. I forgot to add

earlier that I also replaced the fan and clutch to help try to resolve
the problem but I am not positive that it is working properly.

I'd be looking pretty closely at the fan clutch. It sounds like air flow is definitely the problem. What shape is the fan shroud in?

Thanks in advance.
Jim









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+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 14:11:50, -0500
From: KNBD87D prodigy.com (MR JOSH J TENNEY)
Subject: re:radio

William,

Those 4 holes are used to take out the radio. A special tool is used
to get it out. Where do ya get one? I haven't a clue. Ford dealers
have them, talk to the service department to borrow one. You can
also check with a Best Buy or somebody that sells and installs
stereos. Talk to the service dept. and see if they can help ya.

Josh

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 14:06:50 -0400
From: bigguy
Subject: Re: Overheating Problems

I thought that the 160 degree thermostat would keep things cooler too. The guy
at the parts store told me that when you put a 160 in it is always moving
around, but when you put a 195 it keeps it in the engine longer, but it also
keep it in the radiator longer thus cooling the coolant much more than if it
was always cycleing through the engine. Tell me if this is correct or not.

Don Lewoniuk wrote:

> bigguy wrote:
> >
> > I have an 85' E350 van with a 351W engine. I have had overheating
> > problems everytime it is idle for more than a minute or so. When the
> > van is moving at a good speed the temp stays relatively cool. I just
> > put a new thermostat in and a coolant change and I checked the timing to
> >
> > try to resolve the problem. There was no change at all except it might
> > have gotten worse when I changed the thermostat. I put a 195 degree
> > thermostat in
>
> The thermostat you put in stays closed until the block heats up to 195
> then opens to circulate coolant into the rad. A 160 thermo would open
> 35 degrees sooner and help keep things cooler.
>
> >earlier that I also replaced the fan and clutch to help try to resolve
> > the problem but I am not positive that it is working properly.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> > Jim
> > If the fan has some drag on it rather than free wheeling after running up
> to temp then the clutch is working. Do a comparison cold to hot and see
> if you can feel a resistance or drag change.
>
> I'd say your rad is clogging up inside if moving helps cool things down
> by passing more air over the fins. Had an 87 tbird clog up last year at
> 130,000 miles and had to have the rad cleaned out by a shop. It should
> run fine (at a higher temp) with the 195 thermo if the rad is doing its
> job. With a 160 it'll run consistently cooler as long as the rad is doing
> its job.
>
> Cheers, Don
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1980 and Newer --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks80up listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks80up-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 15:07:46 +0100
From: droberts MIT.EDU (D Robertson)
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #127

>'88 F-150 4x4 w/5.0 3spd at
>I am having problems with hard cold starting. Be it first thing in the
>morning or anytime the truck has set for an extended period. Could this be
>linked to the coolant temperature sensor or throttle positioning sensor. Any
>hints would be greatly appreciated.
>Thanks, JM

JM :

I think the engine is in open mode when the enginge is cold. That is the
computer is not looking at the senors until the engine is up to operating
temp. You may be loosing fuel pressure due to leaky injectors or a bad fuel
regulator.Try turning the key to the ON position so the fuel pump can
charge the system for a second or two then crank. You should be able to
hear the pump run.

Jumpering out the computer will check out the TPS, O2's etc

Have Fun
Dave

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 13:03:20 -0700
From: Don Lewoniuk
Subject: Re: Overheating Problems

bigguy wrote:
>
> I thought that the 160 degree thermostat would keep things cooler too. The guy
> at the parts store told me that when you put a 160 in it is always moving
> around, but when you put a 195 it keeps it in the engine longer, but it also
> keep it in the radiator longer thus cooling the coolant much more than if it
> was always cycleing through the engine. Tell me if this is correct or not.
> Well I tried running both a hot and cool thermostat in the same vehicle on the same day
and saw based on the temp gauge on the vehicle that it ran consistently cooler with the 160
thermostat. I remember guys running without a thermostat in the summer and only putting
one in for the winter so it would build heat! If you recently put on a new clutch then the
odds are good (not perfect) that it's alright. My ford just kept getting hotter and hotter
until the gauge was in the red and I had to go for service beacause I was 1000 miles out of town
pulling a trailer and didn't feel like trouble shooting during vacation without the right tools.
I'm betting on the clogged radiator tubes.

Don
97 F150 XLT S/C 4x4 5.4l Triton

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 13:18:37 -0700
From: Don Lewoniuk
Subject: Re: fordtrucks80up-digest V1 #127

D Robertson wrote:
>
> >'88 F-150 4x4 w/5.0 3spd at
> >I am having problems with hard cold starting. Be it first thing in the
> >morning or anytime the truck has set for an extended period. Could this be
> >linked to the coolant temperature sensor or throttle positioning sensor. Any
> >hints would be greatly appreciated.
> >Thanks, JM
>
> JM :
> My mechanic claims that having to crank it over a lot till it fires
could be a sign of slack in the timing chain. Take off the distributor
cap, put a ratchet on one of the crank bolts and turn the crank until the
rotor moves to take up the slack. Then turn the crank in the other
direction again until the rotor moves. if the ratchet handle has
moved more than 20 degrees the chain needs replacing. If nothing else you
can check the condition of the chain. Hard accelerations will wear a
chain out more quickly than easy starts and lots of higway cruising.
I've also heard of the "priming the system" solution by giving the pump a
couple of seconds to pressure up. Personally didn't see any difference
but sounds logical.

Cheers, Don

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 15:51:15 -0400
From: John Doe....


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